Thanks. I see you watched my other video as well. This oil is really slick and seems to stay where you put it. Before I bought the little bottle of Lucas Gun Lube I put a drop on my finger in the store before I bought it, and it seems to be a bit thicker which I like it on rails of my semi auto pistols, and on the hammer face of my 10/22 and PC Carbine. If you haven't screwed around with the sear engagement, like I did, put a drop there as well and you might see a smoother trigger pull. I ended up putting a Volquartsen hammer in mine and the trigger pull is a bit under 2 pounds now.
It's really slippery stuff, and I think it's probably the same stuff as the Lucas Gun oil, with some blue dye added. And you get 16 times the amount for only $5 more. If you know someone who has a bottle, see if you can get an ounce or 2 and see how you like it before you make the investment of a 16 ounce bottle. Or go in with a few other shooters. Let me know how you like the stuff!.
I just bought a Ruger PC9 and 10/22. Interesting vid about Lucas oil. What do you think of Ballistol? Been using it for years on my pistols as cleaner and lube.
Thanks for the question. I have never used it, but I know that a lot of people do. My feeling in general is that when you make a product that can be used as two things, it can't be excellent at both, it's a compromise. For example WD-40. It's a great lube for some things, but not thick enough for protection against wear, and is also a great cleaner for some stuff, but still not as good as Hoppes, in my opinion. For as long as I can remember I cleaned my shotgun barrels with WD-40 and it worked great. I think that all the Lucas products are great and I use their Gun Lube for some parts of the gun because It is a little bit thicker than the air tool oil, so it should stay on the parts longer. A lot depends on how close the parts fit. I have a custom built 1911, and the slide to frame fit is so tight that I need a really thin oil on that area. The gunsmith that built it for me said to use Marvel Mystery Oil, another automotive product, and I have been since 1987 on that gun, and others as well. Where I live I shoot when it's as cold as 30F and as hot as 100F, so I change oils for the conditions. I got a little off track here, but I think you know what I'm getting at.
I did, and when I put it on the sear/hammer notch it went full auto. The stuff is really slippery. I have been using it on my 10/22 match guns all year and it really feels slick compared to no lube or other lubes. If you have a stock trigger group put a drop on your sear/hammer notch and see if the pull weight goes down. As a comparison I put some on the recoil spring on my 10/22 and moved the spring back and forth (my spring is not captured, it is a Kidd kit). I then cleaned it all off and put on some Lucas Gun Lube. The Gun Lube was really making the spring drag because it is thicker and tacky. Try it and see what you think.
The leading cause of death among auto mechanics is kidney failure. I'm nobody but I don't lube my bolt in a 10/22. The ammo is lubricay=ted and much of that atomizes in the reciever and thats plenty. Plus it makes them easier to clean and they will go longer between cleaning.
There has always been 2 schools of thought about lubricating guns, dry or oiled. Oiled has always worked for me, but I use it sparingly and stay away from the face of the bolt. I'm not a fan of the steel bolt riding on the aluminum receiver. You can do a simple test. Put the gun together dry and run the bolt back and forth and feel and listen to what it sounds like. Then do it lubed and see if you can feel a difference. I also have used a trigger pull gauge to see how much force it takes to pull the bolt back dry and lubed, and it's easier to pull when lubed. But like I said, many prefer dry, and it does keep the internals cleaner. That choice is up to you. But if you decide to lube, this stuff is really slippery.
Thanks for sharing, I’ll try it.
Thanks. I see you watched my other video as well. This oil is really slick and seems to stay where you put it. Before I bought the little bottle of Lucas Gun Lube I put a drop on my finger in the store before I bought it, and it seems to be a bit thicker which I like it on rails of my semi auto pistols, and on the hammer face of my 10/22 and PC Carbine. If you haven't screwed around with the sear engagement, like I did, put a drop there as well and you might see a smoother trigger pull. I ended up putting a Volquartsen hammer in mine and the trigger pull is a bit under 2 pounds now.
Thanks for the information, I'll try it on my O/U shotgun ejectors first and then probable on others next.
It's really slippery stuff, and I think it's probably the same stuff as the Lucas Gun oil, with some blue dye added. And you get 16 times the amount for only $5 more. If you know someone who has a bottle, see if you can get an ounce or 2 and see how you like it before you make the investment of a 16 ounce bottle. Or go in with a few other shooters. Let me know how you like the stuff!.
I just bought a Ruger PC9 and 10/22. Interesting vid about Lucas oil. What do you think of Ballistol? Been using it for years on my pistols as cleaner and lube.
Thanks for the question. I have never used it, but I know that a lot of people do. My feeling in general is that when you make a product that can be used as two things, it can't be excellent at both, it's a compromise. For example WD-40. It's a great lube for some things, but not thick enough for protection against wear, and is also a great cleaner for some stuff, but still not as good as Hoppes, in my opinion. For as long as I can remember I cleaned my shotgun barrels with WD-40 and it worked great. I think that all the Lucas products are great and I use their Gun Lube for some parts of the gun because It is a little bit thicker than the air tool oil, so it should stay on the parts longer. A lot depends on how close the parts fit. I have a custom built 1911, and the slide to frame fit is so tight that I need a really thin oil on that area. The gunsmith that built it for me said to use Marvel Mystery Oil, another automotive product, and I have been since 1987 on that gun, and others as well. Where I live I shoot when it's as cold as 30F and as hot as 100F, so I change oils for the conditions.
I got a little off track here, but I think you know what I'm getting at.
@AlFrangipane did you try the Lucas Air Tool Oil on your PC Carbine?
I did, and when I put it on the sear/hammer notch it went full auto. The stuff is really slippery. I have been using it on my 10/22 match guns all year and it really feels slick compared to no lube or other lubes. If you have a stock trigger group put a drop on your sear/hammer notch and see if the pull weight goes down. As a comparison I put some on the recoil spring on my 10/22 and moved the spring back and forth (my spring is not captured, it is a Kidd kit). I then cleaned it all off and put on some Lucas Gun Lube. The Gun Lube was really making the spring drag because it is thicker and tacky. Try it and see what you think.
I switched to Lucas a couple years ago. I would see these bottles at Autozone and would pick one up everytime I went. Pretty good stuff.
I have some as well, and find that it is a little bit thicker. Great stuff!
The leading cause of death among auto mechanics is kidney failure. I'm nobody but I don't lube my bolt in a 10/22. The ammo is lubricay=ted and much of that atomizes in the reciever and thats plenty. Plus it makes them easier to clean and they will go longer between cleaning.
There has always been 2 schools of thought about lubricating guns, dry or oiled. Oiled has always worked for me, but I use it sparingly and stay away from the face of the bolt. I'm not a fan of the steel bolt riding on the aluminum receiver. You can do a simple test. Put the gun together dry and run the bolt back and forth and feel and listen to what it sounds like. Then do it lubed and see if you can feel a difference. I also have used a trigger pull gauge to see how much force it takes to pull the bolt back dry and lubed, and it's easier to pull when lubed. But like I said, many prefer dry, and it does keep the internals cleaner. That choice is up to you. But if you decide to lube, this stuff is really slippery.
..nahhh...that's DEFINITELY not good...