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I used a Scotchbright wheel mounted to my bench grinder, but everyone else has been using a fine file, then progressively finer wet/dry sand paper like what is used for auto body work. After filing start with 400 or 600 grit, and finish with about 1,200. Use 800 between the 400 and 1,200. Are you having issues, or just being pro-active?

@@CompShooter54 Pro active for now.

I'm not much of a UA-cam person, but if you can get me your contact info without sharing to the whole world, I could meet you at my club. It would take only about 10 minutes to do the fix. Have you tried changing the extractor and the 3 bolt pins first? Some people have had success doing that, but even if it didn't work, it's a good idea to change those. I'll be glad to do the fix for you.

Who makes the spring?

@@CompShooter54 I think it was a Galloway Precision steel rod and spring.

@@pekolucky Thanks, I'll check it out. Why Ruger would cheap out on a rod is beyond me.

Thanks for watching, I'll wait for you response. If that doesn't fix it, try the extractor. And also have a look at the bolt pins, they wear out quickly and bend a little. You could try replacing those as well.

Only if it's the strawberry flavor 😂

Just checked the Ruger site, nothing there. Do you have a link that you can attach? I'd like to see it.

I shoot with a lot of Canik owners and have never heard of this. Is it the TP(-SFx or one of the newer models? Will the same round fire if the gun is cocked and fired again? Smoothing the plunger housing will only make the pull smoother. If you hear a click, that should be the sound of the striker going forward. How old is the gun with the number of rounds fired? Maybe the striker assembly or the striker housing has some grit in it that is blocking the striker? Hard to say. I'll do some looking around on the internet and see if anyone else is having this issue.

@ its actually the tti combat so its fairly new id say even tho i shot approximately 1500 rounds thru it by now

I found this. Could be that the slide is not going fully into battery, which means that the striker is releasing but cannot reach the primer. Could be just dirty, or an ammo issue. www.reddit.com/r/canik/comments/sez4k2/canik_lite_primer_strike_problem/?rdt=47019

@@CompShooter54 thats actually a great point

Since you are from MA, do you ever shoot at Harvard? I shoot Steel Challenge there every month, if you do as well we should talk. As far as the dents go, I have not seen that on mine, but the front of the ejection port is pretty beat up. My brass comes out black, which is usually caused by a loose chamber and the gasses are getting by the case. My problems started right around 500 rounds, but some people never have a problem, and some on the first day. As far as the mags go, I use Glock brand mags except for a few from Korea, I forget the mane right now, but they work fine. Have you tried downloading your mags by 1 round? By doing that it leaves space for the column to compress when you insert the mag on a closed bolt. With the bolt open it should never be an issue.

@@CompShooter54 Thanks for the reply. Back in the early 2000s I shot some USPSA at Harvard. I tried steel challenge once with a VQ pistol at Harvard. I am not keen on the go up and shoot 5 (I think) times back to back. I shoot more informal competitive events at area local clubs. With the PCC I shot a Pin shoot at Independent in Foxboro for example. My brass is black too but I think that's expected for a gas operated type gun. The mag issue though, I am using new genuine Glock, a full 10 round but with the bolt back and when I drop the bolt the mag drops sometimes. I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I also have a couple more new mags I should try.

Thank you for watching. As long as it's posted, I'll support all comers and answer all comments.

That's good to hear, hopefully it will continue to be trouble free.

You need to take the front of the bolt off. If easy, and should be part of your cleaning routine. Then you can get to the part that needs smoothing. If you search for "cleaning the Ruger PC carbine" you will find how it comes apart.

@@CompShooter54 thank you!!!!....i will check out the cleaning vid too!!!!

Interesting. Have you ever tried it? I use Never Seize all the time on nuts and bolts, but this product never dries. My fear is that after a few shots the Never Seize will be blown off and the protection would be lost. Let me know if you have tried it.

Good question. I know many people that have sent this gun, and others, back to Ruger for repairs, and the results are not positive. One of the biggest problems that I see is the mounting holes on the MK4 .22 pistols. They strip easily and the Ruger fix is to just make the holes larger, which means that you need to have larger mounting screws and a modified scope base. I sent back a LC9c because the trigger pull was 3.5 pounds, much too light for a striker fired carry gun. The y told me it was supposed to be 5.5. So I sent it back to be brought back to factory specs. Yup, came back right at 3.5 pounds. All they did was test fire it for proper function. Now it just sits in a drawer, I don't feel that it is safe.

What ammo are you using?

@@CompShooter54 bass pro herter’s so it is mostly Winchester. Runs flawlessly through the Glock with the same mags. But the pcc is stovepiping at lest once usually twice with every mag I have. I have some Remington and blazer to try next week but I can’t imagine it will solve 34 stovepipes out of nearly 200 rounds

@@zekiah2 Ruger will most likely just replace the extractor, which really won't help. Is the gun new? How many total rounds through it do you think? What I would do is send the link to this video to Ruger along with your paperwork and see if you can get them to watch it. I'll bet that at least 100 people have fixed their guns doing this. I have sent other guns back to Ruger, and so have many of my shooting friends, only to get them back without the problems being fixed.

@@CompShooter54 less than 1000 rounds

@@zekiah2 Mine started acting up at around 500, maybe less. All with handloads. I bought my gun in December of 2018.

Excellent! I don't know if you tried cycling by hand with the problem ammo before the fix, but if you did you would see a big difference after the fix. It works with all of my hand loads, and after the fix I was able to make lighter loads because of the less resistance from the bolt.

You are probably correct. Back in about 1976 I went on a Smith and Wesson factory tour, and since they really only made revolvers in those days, they only test fired each gun with 3 rounds. The tester wore really thick leather glovers, bigger than welding gloves, and a full face shield. If it went bang 3 times it went in the box. This is probably why they all give a lifetime warranty. The first owner is the real tester under real life conditions.

I think most people use Glock mags, and I agree that they are a sloppier fit than the Ruger mags. I never fired single shot with my Ruger mag, and that might just be the issue.

I'm glad to hear that. If your reloads have a very rounded crimp and a higher velocity you might be OK. A full trigger is made by Volquartsen, for around $300, or they just sell a trigger that should get you down to about 2 pounds. Ask the other Ruger shooters what they are using for triggers.

@@CompShooter54 Unfortunately, VQ stopped making those triggers a year or more ago. None of the 'names' in the 10/22 realm like KIDD, Brimstone, Tandemkross or others seem interested in the PC. My search continues!

Hello, thanks for the question. A stovepipe is when the empty case will get stuck between the bolt and the chamber, with the open part of case pointing out. This is because the bolt is hanging up on it's rearward travel, and it doesn't come back far enough to complete the extraction cycle and pick up the next round. What year did you buy your carbine? I'm curious if it was just the first ones, or if the current ones do it as well. If you read the comments you will see that many owners have fixed their guns by polishing this area.

I can't say, I have never seen the internals on a Mete, but I wouldn't be surprised if there were spring kits for them.. If you check the companies that I spoke about, they may have a listing for the Mete as well.

I'm picturing what your giant smile must look like, and I think it's something like this 😀😀😀. There is nothing worse than a gun that doesn't work, so I feel your pain. It doesn't take much friction to slow down the bolt and cause the issues that you are seeing. With all of the returns Ruger must have gotten, you think that they would have figured this out. I did find another issue that you might experience. The latch that holds the barrel to the receiver has now started to back out during use, and causes the barrel to rotate out of battery. I cannot come up with a reason why, as it seems impossible when you examine the components and the design, but it's done it several times. I made a small latch that holds it from backing out, and that cured the problem. If you ever have this happen let me know and I'll put up a video. However, about 3 months ago I bought a TACCOM lightweight barrel for it, and the barrel is permanently attached to the trunnion block, so no more latch, no more problem. This upgrade is amazing, it takes about 22 ounces off the front of the gun. It takes standard AR hand guards, so if you get a carbon fiber one, you save another 6 or so ounces. If you do any sort of action shooting you need one. Anyway, glad I could help, happy shooting!

Dude ……stainless steel is exceedingly non porous until you get down to a microscopic level. And at that level, it’s doubtful any type of liquid is going to seep into pores of microscopic size. Moreover, the pores that do exist SHRINK when you apply heat. It’s “pores” NOT “pores.” Research before posting useless info.

Finland! I didn't know he was shipping worldwide. You will love it!

Was the as good as you anticipated?

​@@thenoneckpeoplerepresentat8074it is super!! Love it!

@@thenoneckpeoplerepresentat8074 It was, but when you get it, and for any reason you don't like it, he'll give you a full refund!

Some people recently said the new guns now have that area rounder off. There was always a beveled area there, but it was small and had sharp edges. So I don't know what people are seeing without me seeing pictures. It could be the same, or it could be rounded and smooth. What I can say, is that people that had problems rounded and polished this area and the problem went away.

I bought one, so can speak from experience. Never experienced this, but the video is interesting, and I'll likely make the mod.

keep in mind that videos like this being people out of the woodwork. First, others who’ve had this or that problem pile on. Second, people who don’t even own anything need the attention so they post. Ruger has sold thousands and thousand of these rifles. If they had the kinds of problems all of these people claim that they have, no one should ever buy one. Mine is four years old now. My wife and I have fired thousands of rounds with zero issues. It is my go to when I talk liberals into going to the range with me. I love the huge smile they have after the first round is fired. We also take my Beretta M-9 and enjoy without issues as well. It had a terrible reputation amongst GI’s. Mine isn’t a 20 year old, worn out piece of crap like the pistols they got issued. We’re at just over 9,000 rounds on it.

@@frankedgar6694 I'm glad to hear that don't have any issues with yours. Yes, thousands have been sold, but 100's have had problems. Hickock .45 had an issues with the first one he reviewed, but the second one worked fine. It is most likely ammo specific, whether it is bullet weight, velocity, case rim dimensions...and yes they vary from brand to brand. If you don't believe me measure a few sometime and you will see. There is a shooter at my club with one that will shoot Blazer Brass 115 all day long, but not the aluminum case stuff. Go figure.

Sorry for not replying sooner. I just met with Justin a few weeks ago and he has sold over 200 of these and none have been bedded that he knows of. It would be best for you contact him directly. I know that he has made several adjustments to the stock since I made this video, and maybe this included something like a bedding system? Sorry for not having a better answer.

@@CompShooter54 Much appreciated.

I see that you asked me this question about 4 months ago, and sorry, but my answer is still the same. I am reluctant to tell you exactly what I did because if you go too far with the modification, or you take too much out of the pre-travel, you will defeat the striker safety function.

They do have their issues, that's for sure. Mine is all set now, but it cost me a lot of matches until I figured out this problem.

Can you describe the failure to feed issue? Mine always fed well, but would stove pipe. Is the empty being ejected? Are you using hollow points or round nose. Are you using brand name mags? There are many reasons for FTF problems, I may be able to help with more info.

@@CompShooter54 spent cartridge does not eject before new round can load. I'm using 115 gr fmj PMC in Glock 17 mags

@@aos7194 The bolt is not coming back far enough to eject the spent shell and pick up the next round. Does the bolt stay open on the last round? Does it happen just with the first few shots in a full mag, or randomly anywhere in the mag? In any case, it sounds like the bolt is dragging, which is why I rounded off the corner like I show in the video.

Thank you Al, It works! I can finally call my pcc reliable. You are an excellent troubleshooter. You can feel where it hangs up when you remove the bolt and slide the casing up to the small factory bevel just like the video says. Thats what gave me the confidence to do it, when you actually feel it for yourself. The action is so short that it just takes a small hangup to jam. Thanks again. Youre the man!

When you say "the other way" do you mean that the area that I rounded off is already rounded from the factory? Can you be more specific?

@@CompShooter54back of the bolt drops down farther than the front

@@CompShooter54same here I just bout the newest version of the pc carbine and it has the piece you filed already lower

@@ryanplaysmc323 Nice, it only took them 6 years to figure it out!

I visited Justin at his workshop a few weeks ago and saw some on the M1 stocks. A very unique product and very attractive. I'm glad that you like it!

Thanks for watching. If you have more questions, please ask!

Yes it is, I was just there last week to see the updated machinery. The stocks are better than ever.

I'm not entirely sure, but I think it's Alox and beeswax.

More like 3x sized hands. Which accounts for some of the bad grip, but not all.

So why can't Ruger figure it out?

@@CompShooter54 exactly!

They have had so many complaints I don't know why they didn't do an evaluation instead of just changing the extractor.

I would have done the same thing, but I have 2 friends that bought Freedomsmith triggers so I got to try both first. One was the regular width, the other a fat one. I hated the fat one but the regular felt really nice. But for $90 I figured I would try to modify mine first, and if I screwed it up I could always go buy the Freedomsmith. Both guys bought the Springco recoil spring kits and one is having nothing but trouble with it, the other is fine. Springco tried to troubleshoot it over the phone but couldn't get it to work reliably, so now it just sits at home in a cabinet. My setup still works fine after about 6,000 rounds. As a side note, I have a S&W SD9VE which comes from the factory with a 10 pound trigger with a long pull, similar to the first gen Glocks. I just put an Apex kit in, which they claim would reduce the pull by 2 pounds. They lied....it is now exactly 4 pounds! Since it is a home defense gun I was hoping it would get down to 6, so I'm going to change the combination of the old and new springs to see if I can jack it up a bit. I will have a video of this out shortly. Now there is close to zero overtravel, a lot less pretravel, and the trigger shape doesn't suck anymore. Apex makes great stuff if you own a S&W.

@@CompShooter54 I have the m2.0 4" compact that I put the Apex in, which is an awesome shooter. I also have the m2.0 45 police turn in that I put an Apex in. It too is a really nice shooter. I really like Smiths, even the M&P 22.

@@The1jonnyz A good trigger is the best thing anyone can do to any gun. Most people are concerned about accuracy, but most people cannot shoot as well as the gun can. A good trigger will make any shooter a better shooter.

Actually, I put it back to stock because after some testing it with some drops it failed to hold. I would suggest that you buy a well designed trigger instead of messing with the stock one. The problem is that the pretravel has something to do with when the striker block disengages, and you can't tell when that is. So, as much as I would like too, it's better that I don't, sorry.

I may have misunderstood your question. After re-reading it it sounds like you did it already and want to discuss it. Sure, if you want.