4 REASONS YOUR LS SWAP WONT START AND HOW TO FIX IT!
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- In this video I'm going over the 4 most common reasons I see that cause an LS swap to crank but not to start and what you can do to correct them. If This video helps you out then don't forget to check out the rest of my "LS SWAP TIPS AND TRICKS" playlist here: • LS Swap Tips and Tricks
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I am not even sure why you have so little subscribers. I find that insulting. The amount of knowledge and charisma you have speaks for itself.
This man is a national treasure! Thanks for the guidance. 5 minutes into this video and my problem is solved.
Glad to hear it brother! Be sure to share the video for others that may be having these issues!
Got an LS tech tip or trick you'd like to see a video on? Post it in the comments and I'll see what I can do!!!
I had a LS Swap installed in a 1982 B-Body. Was running fine but I noticed erratic shifts in the transmission. Parked car and started it the next day and after idling for about 10 minutes it fell dead. Ever since, cranks over but no start. I have a fault code of p0122. Any help?
Yes. Replace or clean the TPS that your code PO122 is telling you is bad. You might also check the wiring going to the TPS and make sure there are no breaks or loose connections.
I have a 2008 Pontiac G8 GT....I'm going from the L76(LS2sort of) to a LS3....
The LS3 is a NEW FULLY EQUIPPED CRATE ENGINE.....Now my question is the L76 has a three prong Oil level sensor on the pan.... but the LS3 doesn't
so do I need to swap the oil pans or can I just delete that sensor as I check my oil all the time because I'm a quarter mile racer
@@BadLuckGarage I swapped my L76 in my G8 GT for a LS3 motor.....Now my L76 motor had a sensor on the oil pan and the LS3 doesn't.....Do I have to swap oil pans or can I delete that sensor...... because my warranty is very tricky with certain things and I don't want to VOID it
....but naturally if I need it for my engine to function properly for my application... obviously they can't void my warranty... it's a Blueprint Engine part# PSLS376OCTF...... I looked up the G8 GXP LS3 MOTOR AND THAT LS3 HAS THE OIL SENSOR ON IT. WTHELL!!!!! If you can answer or help me with any of this I'll gladly appreciate it....Thanks
Got a lt1 ls motor and i believe the crank on position is the issue with no start.. Do you have a video of how to check the hot crank position on?
Can you do a video on how to wire the 12v ignition to a switch inside the cab so I don’t have to do the gas work I’m trying to find a wire
Your first guess was exactly my problem. We now have an LS3 that runs and sounds awesome. Thank you VERY MUCH!
Glad to hear it helped brother!
My issue was the ground, bolt was bottomed out so connection wasn’t great. I really appreciate your video.
For my LS2 Holden L76 swap it took the "Write Entire" to get past VATS. Thanks for the help, really made my day.
I have a l77 swap it’s cranking but not starting and I’m not getting coil packs do you know why ?
Thank you so much for this, number one fixed my problem.
I was pulling my hair out over this. What a relief.
Glad the video helped brother. 👍
First reason was my problem. Found the correct wire and bingo! Very much appreciate this video! Saved me a hell of a lot of time!
Glad to help brother! If you wanna help the channel and others who may be having similar issues, be sure to share this video on your favorite LS swap forum or Facebook group! Remember, when it comes to UA-cam, sharing is caring. 🤣👍🏻
@@BadLuckGarage yessir, will do!
Thank you sir! Thats how we grow!
@@BadLuckGarage absolutely!
What wire is it?
Bought a brand new GM Connect and Cruise L96 package, took our time installing, double checked everything and it would not fire. Watched your video and did not have cranking power, got that lined out and fired up immediately. Thank You so much!!! 1959 Chevrolet Apache truck now with all the new technolgy.
Count me in on the majority. No power to the coils while cranking. Fixed that and it fires right up. Thanks!
Glad the video helped! Be sure to share it if you think it can help someone else!
This made my car run within seconds of finishing the video. THANK YOU!!!
Glad the video helped you out brother. Be sure to share so it can help others! 👍
I followed your first step and it worked. I can't thank you enough you saved me big time keep up the great videos
Glad to help brother!
Can you explain this to me I think this might be my problem
Thank you I had the wrong power source much appreciated.
You are welcome!
Wow… BLG… thanks bud! When I heard number #1 I thought…. Sounds crazy, but I’ll be dammed was exactly that. Ignition relays are overly complex on some vehicles. When you said switched 12v, I literally bought a push button switch…. SOB fired right up and then laughed at me.
Glad the video helped brother. Be sure I share if if you think it could help others. 👍
Hey bud this is my first swap ls3 engine tr6060 transmission everything hooked up no start I was watching this video chech my power wire 21.5 voltage on start switch no start I have a black wire said start signal where I connect this wire to?
Lol didn't have a problem just a subscriber but that's how all how to videos should be!!!!! Great information thanks
There is an entire playlist of these LS Swap Tips and tricks videos on this channel. I would love to do more of these as they require no work and very little editing, lol. But the trade off is I’m not getting any work done on the project vehicles either. 😒 But if you’ve got any ideas for LS tech tips that I haven’t already covered please let me know and I’ll see what I can do about making a video.👍🏻
mate your a legend worked as soon as you explained it happy aussie here today
Glad it helped
Thanks so much just fired up my 5.3 k5 blazer, now that my crank sensor is plugged in
Glad you got her running brother!
Glad I ran across you.
I just rebuilt my V8 vortec 6.0 in my 2003 Escalade Ext.
Followed all torque specs put it together, primed the engine. Had good oil flow through all the pushrods. Closed it up installed all new sensors, new coils, new wires, new injectors.
Hooked ut all up tried to start no start. No start.
Got my OBD2 code reader had codes P0335 and P0336. Codes for crank shaft position sensor issues.
Went and got the old crank sensor reinstalled it. Same problem.
Called GM dealer ship about the Key got advice to use my fob to lock and unlock the doors. Did that. Tried to start. No start still but the codes went away.
Mind you I did have spark I knkw because I had help checking fir it and the way I did it it shocked the hell out of me. And fuel pressure. That definitely isnt an issue because after trying to constantly start it and using starter fluid the fuel system became over pressurized and spurt fuel out from the regulator all over the place. I immediately removed the negative battery cable so it would stop. What happened there is it became over pressurized it forced the regulator out of place.
Anyway after doing what the GM guy told me the P0335 and P0336 codes went away and for a few attempted starts ut stayed away. However now I get code P1626.... and the check engine light stays on but the security light isn't on. So now we still crank but no start.
I also trued the sequence programing for vats but that's useless to me because the security light isn't on but maybe you know more and can help. However I still get that code P1626 crank and no start.
Forgive me if I may have misunderstood something you said that may help but don't think I did and I don't want to sound redundant. But if you can help please do. Single mom trying to get my truck going again.... Thank you.
P1626 is a security code. It usually means that the body control module either isn’t communicating with the PCM or it isn’t seeing what it needs to see from the ignition switch and is telling the pcm not to fire the injectors. It’s possible that maybe you’ve dislodged a wire from a connector or have a loose ground somewhere that’s causing the problem. It’s also possible that your key needs to be reprogrammed to the BCM. There may be a hack to fix this but I don’t know it. The only two ways I know to get around this is to either take the vehicle to the dealership and let them reflash the BCM and reprogram you’re keys/fobs, or option b would be to find someone with HP Tuners and have them just disable your VATS completely. I usually deal with swap vehicles, not factory LS equipped vehicles with BCMs and I’m gonna be honest, if you have the VATS disables all together I’m not sure how all that will work out with the BCM since it’s a factory application. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help but like I said, I really don’t have much experience with this exact issue. 🤷🏼♂️
@@BadLuckGarage No worries. I appreciate your response.... On GM trucks from some time up to 2007 they had standard Keys but they did have the Vats system where whenever Vats was activated you have to do a relearn procedure for passkey ( no transponder )....
Just thought id share what I learned...lol.
Feel like im going to GM school of hard knocks....
Well all be #1 problem fixed here! Stumbled on this video on the crapper watching about vats. Reminds me of the hot wire for older coils but the opposite, run while cranking and die after letting off key.
Glad the video helped you out brother.
thank you SR. # 1 was my problem , and thanks to my dog that helped me crank my truck wile a was checking for power.😜
Lol
#1 was my issue. Thanks bro. I’ve been fighting with this thing for a week
Glad to hear you got it figured out!
Thanks for the tips! I want to do a LS swap on my 78 Corvette I just haven't done it yet.
You can do it!
Very useful info. Especially the o2 making it run crap. Just incase this helps anyone. I’m in the process of fitting a ls1 and I spent a good few hours at the wkend trying to find a no spark and injector pulse issue. Finally I traced the wires from pcm and it turned out the cam and crank sensor plugs were the wrong way round. I was amazed that gm had made these two plugs the same. Surely I can’t be the only one this has happened to.
Most harnesses are laid out in such a way that its physically impossible for the cam sensor plug to reach the crank sensor location if everything else in plugged in BUT I've seen people try to install harnesses upside down, from the front, and do all kinds of other things so nothing really surprises me at this point.
@@BadLuckGarage right totally impossible
I have a question, by the way your video was awesome. Here is my problem. Just put in a new wiring harness DBW in my LS swap 5.3 gen 1. The motor started DBW would not work. I am now at a point can’t get the motor to run and the relay going to the Coils is cycling off and on which is the reason the motor will not start. It was working but now not. I’ve checked all the grounds 5 times, voltage is correct, battery is at full charge, why would the relay be cycling and not staying on? That is my 1st question. The Second, why can’t I get my peddle to work? I know I have 12 volts to the correct wires, the throttle cycles on startup I have seen it move on start up and hear it when you turn the key on, but know communication with the peddle.
Just a quick note finally figured it out it was another ground bottom front on cross member single black outside harness not the one that goes to lights must be 5-6 different grounds wow thanks
very good video you did here ,, good tips,,, its too bad not one helped me with what I got going
I’m hoping I can pick your brain soon. I used a purchased harness. I am not getting power to my coils at all. Was hoping to get some help with that.
Good morning. I'm still a novice to LS Swapping. Engine won't start. I had my wife crank over the car while I tested the spark plugs and the injectors for voltage. All tested good. I have a 6.0L L96 Gen IV (Vortec) and a new ECM configured by a master Tuner friend to a 2009 Corvette ECM with VATS, flex fuel and VVT settings removed. I have this ECM setup because I"m using a Tremec T56 Magnum Six Speed. The engine started easily on half a crank about a month ago when I fired it up. Recently a Friend helped me with Dakota Digital Cruise control wiring, and now the engine won't start. I think I understand what you said about the 12 Volt ignition wiring test is verified with power to coils and injector when cranking. Now I'm at a loss. Thanks for all the information you share. Any thoughts/ideas where to look next?? Regards Matt Politzer.
Great video! I am on my way to the shop now to go check my ignition switched power source! Fingers crossed!!!
Great knowledge Robert! 👍 thank you bad luck garage
thanks you saved my sanity, been checking shit for hours and 5 min of video i fixed problem
Love hearing that brother!! Please share this video on social media so it can help others as well!
@@BadLuckGarage shared on facebook
Thanks brother. Sharing helps others and it also helps the channel grow!👍
@@larrydavis2512 what did you do
This video is spot on thanks for putting this out there .
Glad it was helpful!
So it sounds to me like I’m having the number one issue you described. Did a Gen 4 swap on a 2010 chevy 1/2 ton. Did a full delete kit on dod/afm. Can’t find any ground issues or connection issues. No spark on no 1 or no 3 cylinders definitely had help to do that. The guy who did the ecm delete for the dod/afm read smog, throttle body, cam position, traction/ stable trac control codes and they wouldn’t clear. Cranks and cranks but no fire. I’m lost. Don’t know where to start. Cleaned some grounds and now only reads limited power on the dash but that’s in my shop without a reader. Still no spark.
Hey what's up bro I did everything that you said in your video and my car still won't start I got power at the coil pack power at the injectors why cranking the key over is just cranking not starting
Unfortunately for me I've already gone through these still won't start...
Any remedy?
So I have a 71’ cj5 with a 5.3 and while it’s cranking its not getting spark 90% of the time because sometimes it will get spark and try to fire up but dies agin and just sits there and cranks, it used to start with no issue and for context it has been mudding and gotten wet and after that seems to be when the problem started
Thanks for posting this video,
I’m swapping a 2004 GTO 356 LS1 into a 67 Camaro.
I had no spark. I traced the power wires from the coils to a mystery plug…
Ended up Having no juice to the coils. Once I hot wired the coils the engine fired right up.
Hope this helps the rest of you.
Thanks for watching. Glad you found the video helpful. 👍
Man that’s the nail on the head before I started tuning I was so dumb to how smart these pcms are or how much of a pain they are as well lol I would never think to put it in open loop I mean that’s how we tune fueling duh wouldn’t dawn on me with the fresh air so close to your o2s the STFT would freak out thank you brother GOD BLESS.
Yea we tend to overlook things sometime. If you go back and watch the exhaust video in the DR Nova playlist I was like “what the hell is going on!!??” I actually at one point mention that it could be because of the open headers but then I was like naw, it’s gotta be something else. Damn thing started running so crappy we were barely able to limp it off the trailer. They finished building the exhaust, I reset the LTFTs and BOOM it was running great. Sometimes second guessing myself all the time is a course. 🤦🏼♂️
Bad Luck Garage yeah I want to say it’s happen to me as well but I just below it off and finished assembling everything lol so I’m thinking that exactly what it was
Hey buddy I done a swap my car was running fine and driving fine till one day I started it and it ran and cut off. I have a Holley terminator that I changed the relay cause it was wet and it ran again and now it's doing it again and I changed the relay but still want run and we're getting plenty of fuel
Great video!
I have a 5.3l LM7 DBW swap with standalone harness into a 1990 350 TBI truck.
Turns over, but no start.
- Checked grounds on frame to block, back of heads, and at relay/fuse box. (Yes, should and will consolidate grounds). All grounds are good.
- VATS confirmed to be deleted with ‘write entire’ on HPTuners.
- Have 12 volts to all pink wires on injectors and coils when key on and during cranking. Coil voltage drops to 11 volts when cranking. (Used a battery jump box to ensure good cranking power)
- Checked all 8 injectors with impulse light. All fire off.
- Checked spark at spark plug boot connection. All spark.
- 55psi fuel with key on, drops a few psi when cranking.
Any help is much appreciated!
I’m having the exact same problem, did you ever get a response?
Did you ever receive a response I’m in the same boat.
Ever figure out the issue and get it running? I have a very similar issue with a NA motor
Great video. I have an issue with fuel. No fuel getting to the rail. Checked pcm not sending power to fuel relay. Fuel pump not getting power. Any idea ? Have an aftermarket Chinese harness.
I would start by by checking the signal wire for the fuel pump relay and making sure they put it in the correct pin of the PCM connector. I’ve never used one of the China harnesses but I have heard of people having issues with some of them being pinned incorrectly. You can download a wiring diagram for free at LT1 swap.com but the China harnesses aren’t color coded to GM spec so you’ll also need a multimeter to double check that the signal wire going to the fuel pump relay is the same wire at the pcm connector.
Have my bmw e60 ls swap.... was running with low fuel pressure issues.... got that fixed now at 58psi but now it will only crank and not start... any suggestions would be appreciated.... going to start going thru all wiring to see if any damage or loose connections
Didnt know you had to do a write entire for VATS delete, gonna try that as soon as I have a free second. Also going to confirm that I have power to the injectors and coil with my noid lights too
L98 into a Landcruiser, the E38 ecm has vats deleted, but not the clutch pedal interface. Donor car had the clutch position switch. Not needing it on the cruiser Do I need to get it deleted . Injectors not firing , power to them but not working. Yes have constant power to ecm when cranking.Cheers
@badluckgarage I recent swapped my 5.3 ls with the 6l80 into my 2008 which I'm sure you know had the 4l60. In this swap I also swapped harness ecm PCM cluster steering column with ignition and halo. Also added the in line fuel pressure which is working . Checked things you mentioned in this video no luck. We are getting no crank no start and when we try to start keep blow the 2 amp dlis fuse. Cleaned and re did grounds. Still no luck. Any ideas where to go from here? Also worth mentioning we are getting some communication with vehicle as in it recognizes it's the 2011 Silverado but it doesn't see vin and only code we can see is the u0100 code at a lost lmao
No voltage at start for me like you said. Thanks man
Awesome information thanks for your time and if you can show how to program the lock up on the 4l80e when racing that would be greatly appreciated
Unless you’re running a triple disk I recommend NOT locking the converter while racing.
Amazing Video!!! I have a slightly different situation that you might be able to help me with. I removed and reinstalled my LS3 engine into the same car, 2014 Camaro SS. Everything is hooked back up but we are not getting any crank. We put the key in and we get power but when we go to start it, everything shuts off. We benched the starter and it is good to go. We will look into "checking for power at the coils and fuel injectors while we are cranking but do you have any other troubleshooting ideas we can try?
My tbss been sitting because I did a ls3. Swap turns on than turns off Ima try all of em see if It can be one of them
I have a aaw power 13 plus harness in my car with a holley stealth. Not sure where to get my hot. Ignition wire?
Dude you kick ass!!! I totally forgot about the 12v while cranking!! Great video!!!!
Thank you sir! If this video helped you out, please share it with others and help the channel grow!
What have connect to get 12 v while cranking
Follow up: You nailed it!!! Thank you so much for helping me get my LS started!!!
Glad to hear it brother!
Can you help me out I have the same problem but I'm trying to get a better understanding of it so I can see if I was close of understanding it better..
Okay on mine I still have the V6 batter cable goes to the alternator but it's short for the V8 I add a other batter cable with a fuse in-between and ran it to the battery fuse box bolt...
I swap a 5.3 from a 2008 Chevy Tahoe in to a Chevy 1500. Grounds everything is hooked up. Turn the key lights everything comes on but it won't click or turn over.
My son put a 2009 engine in his 1994 Silverado. Vats off. Tuned computer from my 2001 2500hd engine was in. Engine was cranking Ng and running. They plugged my other son's OBD2 reader in and now it won't crank at all and fuel pump stays on.
Hi I keep blowing a fuse that stops one side of engine, had mechanic check it, he couldnt find the problem, he put bigger fuse in and its working right now, what could fix this problem? Thank you
Do you have an idea , whats blowing fuse, the engine just shuts down when driving, Thanks
Hey what’s up bro how you doing my LS swap won’t start I got power at the coils on the keys turned on position I got power acting injectors where do I have to turn the key over to see if the coil packs and stuff are getting power or just on to the on position I want to 87 Camaro third GEN
Ok i have a 2006 silverado single cab and it had a 4.3l v6 with a 4l60e. Well transmission went out pulling a vehicle on a trailer so i said why not do a motor, harness,ecm and transmission all in one because i bought a 04 4.8l motor with transmission and complete harness and ecm. Sorry so long but the best way to explain it and thanks for your patience. So the v6 naturally having DBC and my new v8 is DBW and went back and got the tach module, fuel peddle and wire and for a little more air flow i bought a Trailblazer SS intake manifold witch is basically stock. I install all of it and is beautiful but when i crank it it clicks the low beam relay. So i got a no start no crank but when i pull the starter relay and use a short wire i can crank it up. And one more thing i am getting a high beam light in the cluster and there is nothing on and no key in the truck when it sets a little wile. If you could answer this would be great because this truck is my livelihood and feeds everyone because it takes me to work and now in a rut and thanks in advance
Older guys huh I drove 50 &60's I'm working on a lt1 swap in a rat rod. I got c.a.t.s. Tuner and I'm hoping I can get in to shut vats off. I didn't realize if your bypass isn't right it will lock you out for 5min. I've got to check the power to injectors on cranking. I've found broken wires, left off computer grounds. But the BCM isn't isn't there to check for vin number. I thinks vats disable is my best chance. I do have spark so that's good.
Just put a 6.0 on my 03 gmc but no fuel is going into the injectors ? Idk if I need to change the fuel pump
I would like to see a video on setting up the 4l60e shift strategies for part throttle, full throttle, up shift/down shift for racing
I can actually cover that very quickly. If you are actually racing with a 4L60 then I don’t recommend changing much in the tune at all. What I recommend is installing a shift kit to address the mechanical deficiencies in the transmission, then in the tune disable torque management and zero out the shift speed tables so the transmission will shift as quickly as it possibly can. DO NOT play with the shift pressure tables. The shift kit and the pcm will take care of deciding line pressure. Hell I may just make a video about installing a shift kit vs tuning the shifts. Thanks for the idea!👍🏻
I have a gen 4 5.3 that I pulled from a Yukon xl that I put in my 09 single cab Sierra and I haven’t been able to turn it over or even connect to the ecm. And the throttle body doesn’t open up. I ordered a brand new wiring harness hoping this fixes it and gives the engine power. Are you able to give me any word of advice when I get it re wired up?
Hello everyone, Do I still need to delete VATS if I took the motor and pcm from a donor truck that was running ? To my Ls swap?.
I’ll be checking the first especially. Another question: I checked fuel pressure and gauge shows ~65 PSI. Does this make sense? Will it go down once the motor starts?
Sounds like you’re overrunning the regulator. I’ve done videos on this. Usually when people try to run too large of a pump with a C5 corvette filter/regulator setup. They’re only rated for 255LPH max. So if you’re running a larger pump than that it will overrun and cause excessively high fuel pressure. In the video to demonstrate I used a Walbro 450 pump with the vette filter/ regulator and it ran it all the way up to almost 75psi. Not good for the pump or the regulator.
@@BadLuckGarage - I’m running a Walbro GSL 392 external pump (255 LPH, I think). The motor, 5.3 Vortec, was built by a shop and has the stock regulator and fuel rail. I thought 58 PSI was more of what I should be expecting. Could the regulator be bad? Any way to adjust, or “unstick it” if possible?
I heard If your running it on a stand, you attach all the pink wires together and orange wires are constant hot, I did this and still isn't firing up, I got good grounds, I got spark on the plugs when turning over but won't fire up
Any update here?:
I have an issue…crank, no start…LS1. I checked spark and have spark on ONLY cylinder #1! Any ideas? All plugs, wires, coils, and injectors are brand new. Thank you.
Hey so i have a 2005 silverado that was a v6 and i put a 2002 engine in it. Im going to do a drive by cable should i use the 2005 harness or a 2003 and under harness?thanks
Same no problem yet but dosnt hurt to watch an get knowledge, great video
Thank you!
I just changed my cam timing belt and oil pump on my 06 GTO now the car don't want to start some times it will start on the first try other the care will keep cranking but won't start and I have a cam position code any thoughts
I have an issue…crank, no start…LS1. I checked spark and have spark on ONLY cylinder #1! Any ideas? All plugs, wires, coils, and injectors are brand new. Thank you.
Just changed out motors and ignition Cylinders. Starter not engaging. Powers on but no engaging of ignition
Sounds like it’s time to grab a test light and forgive out where the power stops.
hi my name is brendan I am from Ireland and recently purchased a z28 with a C5 LS it was starting, recently restored with a terminator X system, getting petrol but no spark, can you help me please. many thanks
I haven’t hooked up my O2 sensors yet. Do you think that will stop my engine from starting at all? I checked everything else & it still want start.
Im having the same issue and I dont have my 02 sensors plugged up either did you get your running was it the unplugged sensors
@@loomieloom no. Turns out they sent me an bad harness. Sent it back & ordered one from another company & it fired right up. Been running every since. Just got done towing a car actually.
Hey I know this is a old video but maybe I can still find help, ls swap starts then dies instantly? I have the whole original setup just in a different frame any input on where to start?
I just watched ur vid and thanks u solved my problem rite from the start
Glad to hear it brother! If you don’t mind share this video. It helps other hotrodders AND helps the channel!
where do I get the 12volt ignition from? I think this is my problem. I don't have a HEI lead. I have installed a custom harness and there are no other wires in my vehicle yet.
I explained in the video how to test for a 12v ignition wire.
Question will this work with a ls ignition coil swap on a 92 corvette?
So ive tried and tested all sorts of stuff including your tips and im stumped. Truck will not pulse the injectors on start but has spark. There is power to the injectors on crank. Tested at the large connector going into the injector sub harness and at the individual injectors. (With help) Ive also left the key in run and jumped the starter with no luck either. But if you give it a shot of ether it lights right off and runs and drives no problem. Fuel pump runs during crank. Scan tool shows normal readings for ect, external air temp, map pressure etc. The crank sensor and cam sensors are new and tested good on the bench. Its a dbw lq4 everything internal is stock vats deleted, oil pressure sender swapped to a single wire, egr deleted and only running the upwind o2 sensors. What am i missing or not testing correctly?
Love the tips bro! You are a wealth of knowledge
Thanks brother. I’ve actually been meaning to do this one for about a year now.
So how does the ignition switch works if I have that ignition wire connected to the battery directly shouldn’t it work? With out ignition switch or does it need a ignition switch to work ?
Yes
You were right. I didn’t have the ignition wired correctly!
Glad to hear it brother! Be sure to share this video if it helped you out. These are common issues and I want as many people to see this as possible!
How did you wire it up
Got a question.... my ls swap has been running fine and all of a sudden it started missing on high rpm decel and started draining the battery and then u went to start it and now it will not start. It will hit every once and while but will not start and run . Any ideas where I should look ?
Hey man I watched ur video and I’m not having any of those problems with my ls , I swapped it into my 04 GMC Sierra and it was running with the dbw setup but I mounted the gas pedal to the floor and it turns the lights on the dash but hit the key to start it and ever goes off but the cats light and the check engine light .. honestly I’m stumped
Need some help did a LS Swap cant get it to fire up...tps is at 0%, crank sensor is reading i have fuel pressure coil have 12v with Key on but drop to 9.5v - 10v when cranking would that be the issue?
What are Ls swappers connecting their fuel pump relay wire to in older cars. Can’t find any wires that are hot in run and start in my 65 nova
Explained in the video
Very Informative: I have a carb swapped 6.0 ls, stg 4 BTR ,750 demon, headers, TBI tanks inc. in tank fuel pump Initial start up was good fired right up, ran until i shut it down. Now it tries to start but spits back through the carb. fuel pressure 7.0, if i give it a squirt or two it runs for a sec and shuts down and thats when it spits back through the carb. Am i missing something. Me and my cousin checked fire through cranking and it was good. kinda lost right now. Thank you in advance. Any help would be appreciated
Turbo lq4 with a 4l80e swapped in with the l59 flex fuel harness. Currently the truck will run, but quickly goes into limp mode and the throttle plate only actuates to 27%. When the key is on and the car is not running, the throttle plate has full actuation. Any ideas?
And I just bought another ecm today thinking exactly what you said🤦🏽♂️
I did an LS swap on my 1985 K10 using Chevy performance "Connect & Cruise" LS3 package and everything is fine in the morning when I start it and it fires right up. I make a few stops and turn the motor off each time and it randomly decides not to fire. Is it possible that this ignition wiring issue with "key on" 12V vs ignition hot could still be the issue? Because it seems to be a random "no fire" issue and if it was wired incorrectly with a key on 12V wire, then it wouldn't fire at all, correct? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
Good video. I understand that the grounds for the harness go to the heads. Where should the ground from the battery go and what other grounds need to be add? Are they ran in series?
I always do battery to frame, battery to engine, battery to chassis, and engine to chassis. It’s a little overkill but I never have grounding issues that way.
@@BadLuckGarage Thanks for your insight. I’m going to try that.
@@christopherwilliams8514 no problem brother. Good luck on the swap!
I have an LQ9 in a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD. Cranks but wont start. It's OEM harness, but it only has 38 lbs or fuel pressure key on or cranking. I know that it calls for 52 - 58lbs. Is this most likely my culprit? or do yo have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance and I enjoy the vids
Speed shop doing my swap keeps having new problem every week
Claiming Crank no start and no communication to the obd port
Ls swap in a 78 scout Has run many times (supposedly) story after story on this swap from him
Any ideas (if he being honest) why crank no start and no communication with OBD Pulled tranny and reinstalled prior this this problem
Can you do a video correct way to ground wire for your ls swap
Same as any car brother. I run grounds from battery to frame, body, and engine block. Then ground from engine to body. But those aren’t the grounds I’m referring to in the video. I’m referring to the engine harness grounds. There are usually two that goto the back of the heads and sometimes one at the front. It all depends on what harness you’re using.
Do you have to delete vats if you used the complete computer and bcm from the ls truck
Been dealing with a start stop issue just like the vats I’m wondering if they didn’t do a write entire
Awesome knowledge I am 61 and I might put a 6.0 in 4.8 is 2006 and 6.0 is 2007 I am wondering if the relucter wheel on the crank may be different?
It depends. 2007 was a crossover year for the Silverado. The “classics” still had the gen3 engine and pcm while the “New” trucks had the gen 4 pcm and engines. There are several visual differences. Most notably the intake manifold is different, the gen 4 has the knock sensors in the side of the engine instead of on top under the intake like the gen 3, and the gen 4 has a cam sensor in the front timing cover. Those are just a few quick ways to tell the difference.
Doing a 4.3to6.0 ls swap I had the computer for the 6.0ls went to go take it to get it done or whatever and put it on and doesn’t turn on and all it does is make a click noise so not getting any relay or idk I put a 5.3 one on and it turns on I’m confused now so at this moment I went to go get it done again and I’ll see what happens any tips tho cause I refurbished the block and put everything I mean everything brand new just a stock intake and stock headers atm and stock 4l60e cause moneys tight
Do have any videos on 4l60e trans not shift from 2nd to 3rd ...my old trans did it I bought a brand new one and the new one is doing the exact same thing..
If the brand new one has the same problem then it’s either your shift settings in the tune or a wiring issue. Make sure your transmission harness is pinned correctly, you’ve got 12 bolts going to the shift solenoids, and your grounds are good.
This video helped a lot first problem was the answer
It usually is brother. 😉 Glad the video helped you out. 👍🏻
I have a 4th gen fbody that was v6 I swapped to ls and it’s only running one side of the motor I was wondering if you’ve came across this problem and how did you fix it
sounds like youve just got a bad connection or bad ground somewhere.