Classic VW Beetle Bug How To Find Fix Oil Leaks and Drips
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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In this video I quickly discuss oil leaks, where to locate them, and how to fix them from the most common areas.
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I have a shop where we work on Jet Skis. We use a product called 3 Bond 1211. We got the info from Kawasaki factory techs that build jet ski engines back in the early 1980's. It's a high temperature Silicone (white) and totally different from the silicone you get for bath tubs etc. Jet skis of the 2 stroke type use this product to seal the engine cases together and it works extremely well. I used the 1211 when I rebuilt a VW Bus 1600 and modified it to a 1941cc with cam (from a 1969 Westfalia Camper Bus). I used it on the oil filter (screen) as that is where most oil drips come from. I also put the 1211 on the threads of the oil filter nuts/bolts (depending on what you have as some people take out the threaded shafts and put in bolts). That keeps the oil from leaking as the nuts won't come loose and thereby seal. Be sure to clean all oil off the nuts/threads then apply a small bit of 1211. The 1211 is easy to break lose on the nuts but won't come loose by themselves. You can also use blue lock tight but never use RED, it will really lock the nuts and you have to use lots of heat to get it to loosen up. I also used the 1211 to seal the engine cases, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets etc. I have had NO leaks at all. When I assembled the engine I put the 1211 on the outside edge of the crankshaft seals (NOT on the inside area). Anyplace a leak can occur is a candidate for 1211.
I get an occasional drip from the crank seals but it's very minor. Anyway, it's a great product for sealing most anything. To use it (based on my experience with Jet Ski engine rebuilds), clean both sealing surface with denatured alcohol then wait to dry, then put a thin layer of 1211 on the mating surface and assemble the cases. You will see the 1211 squeeze out of the case joining surfaces, DO NOT wipe it off! Once it sets up, I let it have 24 hours, it's pretty tough and seals completely. The 1211 that squeezes out of the cases forms a small mound inside and outside the cases and along with the 1211 between the cases the seal is complete. If you ever have to rebuild the engine, the 1211 is easy to scrape off with a razor blade, then reapply when you're ready to assemble the engine. I have friends that have Harley Motorcycles and have turned them on to the 1211 product as they drip oil all the time, even the new ones. I had one friend clean his engine seam areas and apply the 1211 over the seam and it worked pretty well, much better than a motor that constantly drips oil...
You can even make a gasket out of the 1211. To do that, clean the surfaces then put the 1211 on one side and oil on the other, bolt together and the 1211 will stick to one side (example, the oil filter and ring) and not stick to the other, but it will form fit and seal when you first assemble it. It also works well for convertible tops where I put the 1211 on the top rail where it seals to the windshield, and a layer of oil on the windshield frame. Close the top, clamp it down, 24 hours later you have a perfect form fit seal where the 1211 sticks to the top but not to the windshield frame.
I was able to replace the oil cooler seals on 1971 VW Super Beetle without removing the engine. Just removed the fan house or cover and it was easy to replace the seals . Great video and lots of very helpful information.
I've got leaks from all those places... super fun!
Same... oh, well, it can just keep marking its territory everywhere I go till it I have money to replace them.
The first time I did a valve adjustment on a bug I though I could get away with reusing the valve cover gaskets. The resulting mess assured that I wouldn't make that mistake a second time.
My parents bought a new bus in '66. The VW dealer there anyways would always pull the entire motor for a basic tuneup and run and tune them on a stand. Believe it or not. It tells you really how simple the type 1 motors were to work on.
Cheers.
is just me? but watching under a bug engine is addictive.. i like watching the pushrod tubes, the tinware. etc
best of the best wanna come watch under mine? you can feel free to change the muffler while youre down there...
WOW I'm so grateful to have a video that gets straight to the facts. Great great great great video and audio. Thanks Charles Martin
Cool thing that you recommend getting the bug me video (vol2) Chris, many of the newer beetle peeps don`t get to know the amazing work those guys did when making their bug me video series.
As always, a good video from you, keep up the good work, and thanks for all the help you are providing us buggers.
Peace out from Norway =)
Thanks, appears I'm in for a rear main seal change. It will also be the first time I've pulled a VW engine. My 16yo Girl wanted a classic bug for first car. I've been getting it ready, thought I had it and it'll run out of oil on one tank of gas, filling it up with oil it'll leave big puddles off tranny side of engine. All my experience is classic V8 Chevy's so your videos are extremely helpfull to me. Done benefited from your heater videos before this.
Old days. Still great info for today
The rarest option? hmmm that is a tough one, there are many. The early bugs had so many lil rare options like clocks in the dash or sunvisor, gas gauges, radio options, cig lighters, spare gas tank in spare tire, etc. The list goes on and on. 67s are unique, I am gonna do a video on it.
Very good and straight talking info, and yes he is so right
Great video. Sometimes there are leaks that'll drive you nuts trying to find. Even if you've replaced everything, there could be a hairline crack in the case that got missed during inspection or a shift that caused a gasket to not be seated properly or split. One of the weakest points are the strainer studs due to the soft metal. The palm ratchet is a great idea. I've avoided over tightening mine by using just your thumb, index finger and ring finger on your ratchet instead of gripping with your whole hand. You'll get a cramp before you'll over tighten the stud.
P.S.
The '59 was definitely a bug not a beetle.
However it seems you're helping a lot of people with your videos and good for you for doing that. Not a lot of people are knowledgeable about the Volkswagen period, whether it's the bug or the beetle. 😁
I started with VW in 1972,can't believe people are still talking about how to fix this stuff.
thanks for all your videos
am planing on doing a beetle project in a few months so all your videos are really helping me thanks!!
Might need some good permatex or honda bond. But it really should only be put on when you remove the nuts and washers and then torque them back down to really seal it.
Another tip I heard for finding oil leaks is to sprinkle baby powder around suspected areas, start the engine, get it warm, then shut it down. Might then be able to easily see leaks.
Thanks for the info. I started my Squareback after about a month parked and I had a huge puddle of oil under left side. Looks like it’s coming from above the push rod tubes like you explained. Thinking it’s the rear main seal. Everything you explained point to that. I guess it’s time to pull my engine. 😒
thank you very much i have a 2.0 bus motor in my 914 and so i suppose it isn't much different! blessings!
Your new seal bag says Bugcity...the guy from Berlin CT ?
yep
Thanks for this video Chris, my bug leaks a serious amount of oil but at least now I know what to look for.
I misdiagnosed a leak from the camshaft plug for the main seal because they sit directly in line with each other. If you suspect you have a leak from the main seal, take time to check oil isn't coming from the camshaft plug while you have the engine out and flywheel off.
Nice and informative video, my dad has a 1996 1302 from Mexico, I suspect an oil leak from the oil cooler would I have to pull the engine to replace those gaskets or is there another way to access?
unfortunately it is probably easiest to just drop the engine to do that.
@@classicvwbugs kinda thought so, do you happen to have a video on that?
Thanks for your help!
Engine removal?
@@classicvwbugs guess there's plenty 😅
mine has a leak where the rear main seal is at as it seems and at the tin at the pushrod tubes on both sides the pushrod tubes look all oilly so its the pushrod tubes
Thanks mate, Very informative. I think I have oil just about everywhere! Guess I am going to learn how to pull an engine.
We’ve replace all of the seals you mention and put in new push rod tubes, and tightened up the oil strainer nuts. One small leak seems to be coming from the engine case. What is the fix for that?
Did you try tightening up some of the bolts that hold the halves together?
Chris I have a question I removed my valve cover and about a quart of oil came out of passenger head i was going to fix the valve cover gasket due to it leaking on my exhaust and ran into this
I have owned and loved the VW Bug/now Beetle since the latter 50s and that is not a beetle, that is a VW bug. They were not called Beetles until much later. You need to have correct information because I came here thinking that you were actually referring to the later Volkswagen Beetle. 🙂 Thank you.
It was in the 1960s when the beetle was named "the beetle.". What is your idea of much later?
Actually according to my memory and research it was 97/98 that it went from the bug to the beetle. 🤔
@@sunluver79 no in 98 they called it "the new beetle"
On THAT we agree.😁 I didn't know I needed to be that specific since it was the term Bug and Beetle we were discussing. I own a 2000 1.8 Turbo 'New' Beetle.😉
In reality both Bug and Beetle are nicknames.. just in 68 "Beetle" was officially adopted by VW... the cars original name is just the Type 1... not Bug or Beetle it was just what people called them.
oh and another thing, for the later much later bugs, they have oil filters on them, and my engine almost got ruined, cause i didnt notice but my header was close to it, it like melted and started spitting oil all over my engine, and obv i lost all 3 liters in like a few blocks, i luckily realized on time, but thats a good pointer too, beware of oil leeks from the oil filter :)
Great video! I have a question maybe you might be able to help me. I have a 71 Super Beetle. Just did an oil change and has no leaks. Every time I drive it and I break hard or I'm at an angle on the street or freeway ramp my oil light turns on. What could that be?
great video thanks
hi chris i have a 1974 bug and i have just very recently replaced the rear main seal and after i put the engine back in and drove it the next day i looked under the car and there is oil coming from the same place as before could this be the gearbox seal leaking need to know because i have just replaced all the clutch and i dont want it covered in oil like my last one. love the vids very helpful keep up the good work from Sam United Kingdom
thanks for the tips. my 1200cc engine is leacking dunno were from yet but ill look in to it wen i can
Man, your videos are so informative. Thanks for taking time to explain all these things to us. Can the engine leak from any of the the upper cylinder/head studs? If so what type of sealant can I use to seal the stud threads?
Have you ever used silicone tape on 10 mm bolts to help out with leaks?
I haven't
Great advice 👍from England🇬🇧
The size of the seal was just a wee bit too big fitting within the rim of the Valve Cover Box. It must of twisted while I was replacing the cover. The heat coming of the J pipe may of done the damage. I was Smoking like Whiley Coyote with his Ass burning. I cleaned it up, used one of the better old seals and applyed good heat and oil resistant moly bond silicon. All is good for now. Went for A Ride this afternoon and went well.
All I need to understand is Cork or Rubber- which is better ?
You never mentioned the oil separator? Did the PCV system system on the older models leak like the ‘72-‘73 models? There’s a straight down tube to the right of the oil pan that always seems to have a constant drip from it. From the oil fill housing.
On a swing axle, and you have a leak out of the axle ring at the transmission, can you change the seal without removing the transmission? Do you have any videos on that?
Can you get a leck from the bottom of the piston barrel, as I have just fitted my piston barrel and they go in very tight. So I am hoping they will be fine.
Thanks?
Hi Chris, After 5yrs I'm my bug a bit of an overhaul.
Just today I changed the Valve Cover Box Seal. Sealed and clipped together. Took "Him" for a run and was leaving behind a trail of white smoke caused by the degreaser used to clean the tappits and box. When I examined the new (EMPI) cork seal it had become all twisted an distorted. What do you think has happened to cause this ? I am now considering to use new rubber seals which i've ordered on line. Pls help me outta this situation.
Hey Chris, my 1600 seems to leak from the nuts around the oil pump plate. Would it be feasible to try and fix this by getting a new gasket to put between the pump and plate, as well as adding new self-sealing nuts?
Thats a good start my friend, I would do that. But also look at the plate when you take it off, sometimes they warp.
Talking about the valve cover gaskets correct? Well, EMPI stuff is kinda aftermarket, haha, so the size of the gasket might be wrong for the cover. Why it is twisted is beyond me. I mean... was it hitting the rockers while the car was running? ugh.
Hello Chris, I have a question. Recently I've had the valve cover gaskets replaced after noticing a leak on my 73 Super Beetle. After getting the car back, I now hear a knocking noise when going up inclines that I never heard before? Any feedback would be appreciated.
How much oil leaked out of the engine? If it was a lot, you might have damaged the engine by running it short of oil without realizing it. The VW air cooled engines don't have much oil when full so when some leaks out it can create a problem...
You ever figure out what this issue was? My 65 Baja, which has never offered more than the occasional spot, opened up like a Jack Lalanne juicer this afternoon...right after I spent an hour washing it and shining her up, of course. It's not leaking unless it's running. Figure it's gotta be a gasket of some sort that has given way... Any advice would be appreciated.
I use 1/4 " drive ratchet with 10mm socket on oil seal bolts, no fear of over tightening ...
The little 10mm nuts around the oil cap r leaking oil. Everyday i re-tighten. Today, just 1 nut was leaking. So, im getting less and less leaks. But, im applying more pressure with my ratchet wrnch then usual. The gaskets r new, and new oil filter. Did i miss something? Any input?
Hey Chris I had a fuel pump fail and it got gasoline in my VW oil. I drained the oil and gasoline in the oil . I then installed the new fuel pump . I then added 2.5 quarts of oil in my cc1600 1971 motor in my 1969 convertible. The dipstick did not really show much oil on the stick. Below the lower mark. I am hesitate to add an more oil and I am letter car sit overnight. Coulod I have another problem that is sucking up the engine oil??? No leaks noted.
do you have an added oil sump or filter on the engine?
@@classicvwbugs Yes and I found out that a sump added has 1.5 quarts more capacity. So I am adding some more oil today and hopefully that addresses the issue. This is my 89 year old mother's VW convertible and I have no VW bug experience.
Started her up with oil showing just under the high line mark on the dipstick. I drove her about four miles and got up to fourth gear. She drove nice and has the old bug motor sounds when shiftiing! Thanks again for the sump info!
@@laneralph8154 awesome 👍
I have a 1970 Bug, and have isolated the oil leak thanks to your tips, and it appears to be the rear main seal. The oil level has stayed pretty consistent on the dipstick, so it doesn't seem to be too bad. How important is it to fix it, and what are the consequences of just letting it go? Thanks
If it is just a couple small dribbles each day, it is ok, but if it is like size of a lemon or apple the stain on the floor, then I would say you will need to remove the motor.
What happens if I wait too long? Is it damaging the engine?
Only if you are losing lots of oil. As long as you keep on the level of oil, you should be ok. But if it is gushing out, you need to fix that.
Not gushing, but certainly worth addressing. Can you tell me how much I should expect to pay someone to do this? I'm moderately capable. How difficult is it to do myself? (I do not have a sophisticated shop to work in.)
If you want to do it yourself, pick up the bugmevideo dvd on motor removal, he shows you how to do it yourself and do the seal. Expect to pay someone a few hundred bucks to do it.
yah haha, i do, it was just a tip, but ur right, most people dont have this problem :)
Oh and how can i pull the pulley off without bending it, cause it seems to happen a lot around here haha
Hi , could you please tell me ,the hole depth in the case ,where the studs are located ,that hold the cylinders in place? I'm asking this because Time-Sert ,needs this info in order to make me a special kit to put inserts on my car. Thank you.
any chance you could do a how to on connecting rods rebuild for the every day joe who cant just send everything out? I'd like to know how to inspect the rods I have and which I can reuse and how I can change out the bearing on the small end
yes!!!!!!! :) also how can u tell if ur bug has a type 1 or type 4 engine?? also u are very awesome and restore all ur bugs really good
How do I change my radiator fluid on my 65 bug?
...and the blinker fluid?
Hey I know I commented earlier about an issue that I was having but I dont think it's what it is.
Whats happening is after about 10-20mins of driving the oil light comes on and the car starts to run a bit rough unless i hold the clutch in and after I turn the engine off there is this burning smell.
Would like to know what you think of this. Thnks for the vids.
I just changed my pan gaskets. Still getting drips out of all 6 nuts. I have no idea why. Im also seeing oil coming up from the nuts from what i guess is the intake manifold(?) The cap lookin part under the carburetor with the 2 hoses in it. Its pooling beneath my fan belt. Any idea what that might be? Im doing my first engine pull soon, because i think the rear main is shot, but any help you can provide based on this info, I would greatly appreciate it. This is my first bug. Just glad I dont have to work around a bunch of plastic crap. 74' super beetle. Please help.
Might want to stick with petroleum based oil, synthetic is thin and could cause leaks, I'll be switching back soon.
Is it a problem if the bottom section has some oil on it but only drips a few drops while its sitting? Never had a big oil leak in mine
i have a 68 beetle with an odd oil leak it leaks behind the crankshaft pulley mainly at highway speed as its getting the distributor, generator, the pulley the rear cover plate, and the inside of the decklid covered in oil is there any fix for this? the motor is not original its a later 1600 dual port originally 1967-1969 vw type 1 beetle and Karmann Ghia use the 1500 single port engine. as i checked all the areas for oil leaks and were fine as this problem is behind the crank pulley it leaks when its at highway speed
Very helpful thanks 👍
one thing, if i change my main seal do i apply silicone ? or not
is that a yes or a no
does 1965 v w bug have an oil pan gasket
yep
how much is that engine seal kit?? does it include everithing you need for the engine to stop leakings?
where can i buy such kits of seals? is for a beetle 95 made in Mexico engine is 1600.
Hey man I got a vw motor in my dune buggy and on the motor bottom right if ur looking at it looks like a hole no threads looks like a pressure cap goes there it shoots out oil when I crank can u help as to what that is and how I can fix
so again on the emblem first i put the little boots on the emblem then push it in or what?
Can anyone tell me whats wong with my 1970 bug. It has a 1835cc engine. I did the valve ajustement recently. and it still back fires and loses power when getting hot. Also when it starts losing power when going up hill. and also there in this Clicking noise. I think it might be the rocker arms hitting the valves. I think the valves are sticking and not opening all the way. Do I need to do valve job on it ? Any tips, please help
What is the best quality seal kit?
German if you can.
Chris Vallone Thanks for the reply. I have a 66 beetle, the engine has a tag riveted at base where engine numbers are normally stamped. The numbers read 5550 B- 41906. I cannot find any info on these numbers. Please help if you can. Thank you
@@goodstuffbetterstuff7207 Had to be a rebuild at some point then, check behind the tag. But any german kit will do.
by any chance can u put pop out windows on a 1974 super beetle
ooohh so a type 4 is for other volkwagen cars right
What made the front main seal leak? Thrust bearing beat to death? If so, guess what happens next, after installing new seal???
Crankshaft endplay is a common problem on high mileage air cooled VW engines. That will usually wreck either front or rear seal, and new seals won't last very long. The only thing that will really fix it is an overhaul, as the rear main bearing is usually gone, and often the aluminum that supports it is hammered, which means machine shop work on the case, or even a new case if it's worn too badly.
I have a problem with my 68 1500cc beetle. It's leaking fuel between the cylinder and the head. Need advice. Thanks.
Oh wow, heads could be loose!
Hola Chris tengo un 73 super beattle me hace esplociones ya le cambie bujias cplatinos carburador y sigo teniendo el mismo pro ble Ayúdame por favor
Thank you very helpful
Is it the same for a 74 super beetle
On my 1960 There are two drain plugs on the bottom
Also, somehow inhave a fuel leak, and my pump inthink is probly still faulty . Inwant to keep my original style pump. It looks just like a pierburg pump, but it doesnt have a vw insignia. Its has a triangle with the letters apc. Where could i get a rebuild kit for that?
New fuel pump? Did you check wolfsburgwest.com?
Chris, any input buddy?
hey man, mine was actually leaking from that main flywheel ... gosh well u know what i mean, my english on mechanic terms suck! so my pulley bended, and its the second one that we have ruined, cause those things are so damn tight, and well, pulleys are so damn cheap and of a shitty material, my question is, what brand should i buy a new one from?
You didn't mention oil leaking from the oil pressure sensoir itself...That's common also.....
D+ show amei esse canal muito bom parabéns pela iniciativa tem como traduzir para português? Abraço!
I just changed my rear main seal and its still leaking just as much as before from the same spot, could it be something else? or did I do it wrong? thank you
+roger harrison The flywheel should have been inspected prior to just replacing the seal. If there is a groove around the neck on the flywheel, no matter how many rear mains you change, it will always leak. I have a video on speedi sleeves, the fix to the flywheel problem.
+Chris Vallone thank you. I guess I'll pull the motor again and see haha
Check you end play as well. If it leaks more than a few drips, it could have spun the main bearing. Ive had 2 engines with the same issue.
If the bolts on the oil strainer are shot because of tightening them too much, Can I replace those?
IzzySimBa yes they sell stepped studs. You need to take out the original ones and drill and tap for the larger studs
IzzySimBa yes they sell stepped studs. You need to take out the original ones and drill and tap for the larger studs
i have a bad oil leak in between motor and pulley can any one tell me whats wrong
What about a leak from the front of my 1968 VW Bug? It smells like oil or something like that...break fluid? Any idea??
Hmm. Fluid-containing objects at the front of the car are: fuel tank, battery, steering box, brakes, windshield washer. That's it.
The only one that contains actual oil is the steering box. And it doesn't contain a whole lot of oil, so if it's leaking noticeably you should prob check it out.
If you have been leaking enough brake fluid to notice spots on the driveway, then you've long since lost your brakes and crashed and died by now.
And if you're still alive and the steering box isn't already bone dry, and the substance is oily-not-watery, then you must have a fuel leak. Check the lines from the tank.
@@fisquid You can rule out the battery. It's under the back seat on bugs.
How can I change my transmission fluid?
so what ur saying i put the boots under the hood
yes im very sirous does yepper mean yes or no
At least the motor pull doesn't take long! Only about an hour!
I have a 74 and leake oil from distributor
What about trany leaks
Thanks
Nice.
How about Porsche 2.0 914
ha, thats a good one...!
Hey. My 63 is having an issue with burning oil for the past couple days. Do u know what this could be cause of that?
could be worn out bearings, is engine running hot?
@@classicvwbugs ye sometimes
alright thanks
Nulons Stop Leak does a great job.
* appears to leak where studs meet the case