Thank you for your video and answering the questions in detail. I have been hesitate about purchasing a fence from Lowe's or Home Depot, because the fence contractors usually speak negatively about the quality of box store PVC fencing. I love the look of your fence and had Lowe's come out to estimate today. I am sure I will go with the Emblem style as well. THANK YOU!
i'm talking about the top of the fence...it isn't straight...also..I live in a hurricane area...owner wants a vinyl fence...AND..we want to set ALL the posts in concrete FIRST..because we are pouring a new concrete deck and want the deck to wrap around the posts...so, how hard is it to install this type of fence if the posts are all set first?..thanks for your time!
Correct. It’s not straight. It’s designed to follow the pitch of the ground. No you can’t. The posts need to tilt back to accept the rails. You would never get the bottom rail in of the posts were set
Thanks for the video, but I dont see a link to how you installed it on the retaining wall, which is something u mentioned in the video. Do u still have that link?
Thanks for making this very good video. I am glad that after 3 years, it is still holding up great. And, I like that you answer so many comments from viewers. I am going to install this same Freedom fence in about a week or so.
+Eddie Scorsese Lol. You would need to check with your town building inspector first. But there are companies that do make 8' panels. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Great video . Your fence looks great and nicely done. I plan on getting a fence as this . I'm doing research as to what is involved. I only need about 50' feet . I'm inclosing a small portion of my yard and want to install a wide gate , for a car to go through. I know concrete is the best for holding the posts in place . I didn't want to use concrete because I may remove the fence later and relocate it and extend it . Can you tell me a recommendation of putting the posts in the ground without concrete? Perhaps use a longer post ? Any recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
Hows the material holding up to the elements? I live in the midwest and im looking at doing about 300ft what would be your guess at completing 300ft would cost? $4000?
Looks great. Makes your space cozy. I will have a fence installed thru Lowes on Friday, but I'm on a corner lot and the fence is coming from Hudson Fence co. In NC. Hope mine looks as good as yours. Enjoy.
@@zloungeact Is it possible that your local store don't have skilled people to do it and or can't get find a local contractor for their store to do it. Maybe you can find a contractor your self and get all supplies from Lowes. Good luck I hope you can get a real nice fence built soon.
Is there anyway you can out the model numbers of the posts, panels, and gate in the comments section? Just want to make sure my fence looks as good as yours does. Thanks and I really appreciate the video. Totally helps tackle a large DIY project easier.
Thanks so much for making this video and your comments solved a lot of my questions. About the kicking off the build my fence 150' long, I decided to go with freedom in lowes because of your video. Do you mind updating the condition of the fence now?
Thanks for the video. I’m curious, can you cut the bottom and top rail if you need less than 8 ft? I have 53 feet of ground space that I need to cover. Thanks for you assistance.
@@fez3327 with the slope of the lot, there’s a rise and fall to the fence. I used a brick to set the height of the fence as we were installing the rails on each post. On average the height is 2.5 - 3.0 inches of the ground. The highest is where it meets the retaining wall. For that section, I did attach a piece of wire fencing to the back of the fence and buried it to prevent my two dogs from escaping. The rest of the fence, not an issue.
Nice! Is the fence still good condition? Im thinking on doing it myselft but people keep telling me don't buy vynil fence from lowes or hp because is not good, its too thin, is it still hding good? Any issues? Thanks for the video!
did you said about 220 ft and only paid about 3k? is that good in winter time?? because some people said do not use lowes fence service. i just wonder how it going now. still good ??
How long did it take you to install? Looking to do my yard, around 250 linear feet. How many people did you use? Looks great! I have a yellow lab myself, looking to create some privacy plus play yard for the pup.
I did it over 2 weekends. The return on the far end of the yard was easier since it’s mounted on top of a retaining wall. That was one weekend The long run was done the following weekend. Over 2 days. I was in no rush. On the first day it was my wife and I. The second day it was us and a another couple. It’s awesome for the dogs. We can let them out and have no worries. Best part is when they hear a squirrel or a bird in the woods. They go running up to the fence with a futile attempt to chase them. Lol
@@StreetersGarage awesome...I am hoping between myself, my BF and our dad's and maybe a few friends we can get this thing knocked out in a weekend...unrealistic expectations? We are going to have access to an auger which will help the process go quicker I'm hoping. Fence companies are quoting 3x as much as the cost of materials (plus labor) and scheduling 3 months out. The panels seem pretty straight forward, only hiccup I foresee is some uneven ground and slight sloping on one side of my yard. Was it difficult to adjust the panels to accommodate for the sloping?
For the auger. I would recommend getting one that’s attached to the boom and goes up and down versus the 2 person hand held. With the 12” bit, it can be a struggle to use. We rented one on Saturday and with my wife on the other end it was difficult to use. We did 2 holes with it and I then just hand dug the rest. For the slope it’s easy You’ll need to do this. 1.Get a brick or paver or a 2x4 or something. 2. Set your first post and insert the top and bottom rail and the pickets. 3. Did your hole for the next post. And then set the post into the hole. 4. Take your brick and put it by the new post and set the bottom rail on the brick and insert into the post. 5. The brick will set the elevation to the ground and you’ll have the same 3” gap along the entire fence line. 6. Just move the brick along to each new post as you’re moving down the line. Hope this makes sense.
@@StreetersGarage I will pass along the recommendations...thank you! Was considering the wood fence but with the northeast winters we get near Lake Erie, they can be brutal and if I'm going to put forth the time, effort and money, might as well get something that is worth it! Thanks again!
Same here. I’ve had wood fences before and they look great for the first year but then start to fall apart quickly. I power wash it once a year and that’s it. I’m in the Northeast and we have some brutal winters and Nor’Easters. After 5 years. We’ve had zero issues. No failures or broken pieces.
We have 2 pit bulls. Sweet dogs, but very energetic. How do you feel about this fence with those dogs? considering wood, but this would be MUCH easier to put up.
I'm sure she has already made her decision, but for large, energetic dogs I would hesitate. If the dog actively resists the fence, they may only be safe with supervision. That may be true of any fence.
Eric Helme Well it's a plastic fence so there will be some movement in it since the material will grow and shrink with the weather conditions. However I've had some pretty good wind from thunderstorms and northeasters and I've never seen the fence move.
The type of movement I am referring to....is if you try to sway a post back and forth, then do you get a ripple effect down to the adjacent posts, and they start to sway also?
No. I have this fence at a house I bought in North Myrtle Beach. During Hurricane Matthew one corner blew out. Mine doesn't have the locking tabs on the rail ends, they must have been added later. Anyway, I was able to pick up the pieces that blew out and reassemble it without any tools. Seems pretty sturdy. The only problem I have is the gate which was built too tight for the space. It binds when the gate post sags which is why they sell aluminum I-beam inserts for gate posts now. That and dirt that collects in the bottom rails which allows weeds to grow in the bottom rail.
Awesome! I just ordered this fence and was confused whether I should do 12 inch diameter or 15 for the post. Gatehouse says 12 inch, but quikrete says 15in. Quickrete also recommended 9 bags of 50lb for 15 inch diameter. I think they just trying to make more money.
No problem. Glad it helped you out. I'm up in the Northeast where we get heavy freezing and frost heaves. I've had ZERO issues with the fence doing it this way.
Streeters Garage Also did you install aluminum inserts? People complained that it's wobbly and it can get a little windy down here in Arkansas during storms so I was thinking about putting one every other post. Also for the concrete did you just pour it in and then add water or you pre mix it?
I didn't use any. Typically you'll use them for hanging a gate to reinforce. The fence has gone through several remnants of tropical storms with high winds and it's held up well. For the concrete, I premixed everything in my wheelbarrow and then shoveled it in wet. I used the stuff in the red bag. It begins to setup in about 15 minutes depending on the day. So make sure that you're post is where you want it before you begin the mixing. It's very unforgiving if you make a mistake.
With a 5” post and a 12” hole it leaves you with a 4” “Wall” around the post which helps to stabilize and solidify the concrete. If you went with a smaller hole with a 5” post the thickness of the concreter would be too thin and would have a tendency to crack and not adhere to the post.
@@StreetersGarage I wasn’t criticizing your work just to be clear. You did a great job I appreciate your feed back my main concern is the dept. how much deep you went?
Install post 1: be sure it's plumb. Pour concrete. Let it set. Install bottom rail and tongue & groove boards. Install top rail. Do you pour the next post or dry fit the post and then pour?
JTrane25 Once the 1st post is set. Take one of the rails and insert it into the bottom of the 1st post. From the end of the rail, mark the location of the next hole. Dig the 2nd hole to the rough depth. Take a brick or 2x4 and set it between the rail and the ground. This will establish a consistent height for the fence along the ground. Insert top rail into the 1st post and then insert all of the slats. Take the 2nd post and snap it into the bottom rail and then the top rail. Adjust for plump and straightness along your strong line. Mix concrete and place into hole and remove air pockets. Using the red quickrete bags and assuming a 10 diameter hole. It will need 2.5 bags per post. Once mixed the post will be firm in 15 minutes.
Can you just buy the top row and bottom row (horizontal panels)? My top and bottom row got damaged in the recent hurricane due to falling branches. I can’t see them individually? Please help.
Do you have trees on your property? Or are those leaves coming in from your neighbors tree? I’m getting this fence installed mainly because I live downhill from my neighbors and I’m knee deep in leaves every fall
Yes. We get leaves from a couple large maple and oak trees. The fence will prevent stuff coming in from the sides but we still have leaves that drop right in.
Streeter help me understand how you managed to keep this under $3k. The panels are $110 so even if only 200 feet fence would be $2750 for the just the panels. Looks like you have 20 post @ $32 each would be $640. Then there's the $320 for 60 bags of concrete (3x20 post). I'm at $3710.
+stealth7g It's $110 per section. This includes 1 post. Just checked lowes and the price actually dropped from $79 to 71 per kit. The posts are still $29 a piece. Where are you getting your prices?
+stealth7g Also. I didn't use concrete for every hole. There's about 10 posts that are sitting on retaining wall that are being held up by post anchors.
I have just one comment how many birds sit on it ? And how much bird poop do you have to wash off every other day ? I noticed one spot on your fence already.
After all these years, how is it still holding up? And did you install any wood or metal inserts inside the vinyl posts to hold it stronger in the winds?
Great video thank you. How did you get the sides shortened, cut them? Such as at 5:10 the length is shorter and you used less boards for certain sections.
Is this cheaper and easier? We just had a big tree removed and the fence is terrible and chain link. I’m just looking for a inexpensive way for privacy
If you’re doing it yourself absolutely. It’s fairly easy to install. Looks better than a chain link, you have privacy and low maintenance other than your occasional pressure wash.
Nice! how many feet/panels and posts did you do? full yard or half? I currently am trying to do 2 sides of my yard to finish off the fencing and am trying to price it out to do it myself as well.
Last time I checked it was $120 per - 8 foot panel with 1 post included and 3 bags on concrete. You can use that as a rough estimate. The fence is on 3 sides. Garage makes up partial 4th and then we put a 3’ picket. That fence is also on my channel
Nice video definitely gonna help me install my fence perfect, were your posts 9ft long? Also I see lowes has what I think looks like the exact post for $29 but it says it's for the Everton panel but even the everton looks exactly like the emblem for some reason my posts are $35 for 8ft and $30 for 9ft and my emblem panels are $86
Originally my thought was to put up a vinyle fence like this one until I done enough research on them being I was hesitant of the vinyle posts that are used in holding the panels up, my hunch was right on that the vinyle posts are NOT strong at all they do not hold up in strong winds the posts break at bottom going into the concrete they first begin to wobble back n forth then snap, its definetly no longer of interest to me a complete waste of money & time...
Well. It’s been up for about 5 years now and It’s lived through several Nor’easters Hurricane and Tropical storms and I haven’t lost a post or panel yet.
@@StreetersGarage maybe its just the way the fence runs that the winds just dont catch the fence to knock it over, my idea was to use schedule 40 fence posts inside the vinyle but not sure if the panel ends would be going up againt the metal posts inside the vinyle restricting them to go in so far? I am most likely going to contact couple makers of these kind of fences to see if metal posts can be use as reinforcement for the vinyle.
I hand dug 18” diameter holes 3 1/2 feet deep and then set the post into the wet concrete. One side of the post has a 2” hole that goes through 2 sides. When the post is inserted into the concrete, it fills the cavity and flows out the hole. Essentially making a concrete pin through the post. There’s no way that post is ever coming out of the ground. The rails are then inserted into the post and locked in and then a screw is inserted through the railing the inside of the post. The only way that’s coming out is through a impact from a tree or some other object. It’s all depends on the person installing it.
So did you just shovel concrete around the post? Is the post hollow on the bottom? Ive seen some recommendations of putting a 4x4 inside the buried portion of the post. I also heard one guy say he fills the hole w concrete and then drives the post into it.
Set the post in the hole with 2-3” gravel on the bottom. Mix the concrete in a wheel barrow and then shovel it in. The post is hollow with 2 1” holes on the sides. As the hole fills it the concrete will go into the post. Essentially forming a key so the post is locked into the concrete preventing it from rotating or lifting.
@@StreetersGarage man thx so much for the helpful info! Great explanations...do u happen to be an engineer? Did u use any post stiffeners? Im going to use them on my gate posts. Any tips on installing the post with the aluminum stiffner?
No problem. I didn't use any stiffners. But they just slide into the post. You'll want to use on on each side of the gate. One for the hinge side and another for the latch side.
hi, how far (inches) should the posts be above the top of the fence, to cap, was guessing like 2 inches, but is there a standard?, the fence is 6 feet high.....TIA...Lee
Here’s the install instructions pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/040933087815_install.pdf?_gl=1*ixxcni*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE1NTgwMDY1OTMuQ2p3S0NBandsUFRtQlJCb0Vpd0FIcXB2aGZmOU9UWmJZOVpOR3FkcWY4SDVvOEd5OXNWT1J4UnpLTnJEc09sc1M4UXB3Rkp0OWJIMWt4b0M1SXNRQXZEX0J3RQ..
Thanks, i learned that i need to buy more concrete. They only sold me one bag per post... im doing 4x4 inside each post and a metal beam in the one that is holding the door. Is this correct?
Hello, how did you cut down the width of the fence at the end where the corner is? Did you use a hacksaw, and then maybe use a white fence screw to secure it to the post?
+Alisha Vehill Since the fence uses individual pickets you just size it accordingly. You adjust the width to the nearest 6" width by removing a picket. For the corner where it was an uneven amount. I used an angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel to rip the picket to the correct width. Once cut you attach the expander to it and insert it into the rails. No hardware is needed. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Yes. The run on the back wall was not an even amount. If I used 8’ sections it would have left a run of like 3’ or something to that effect. We measured the uneven distance for the 2 sections and cut it in half. Yes, you can cut the rails to make it fit if needed. Thanks for watching!
Installed same fence at my house. The boards should be tongue to the direction opposite the direction of fence installation. If fence install is from left to right as seen, install tongue to left as it allows easier installation of top rail, otherwise will be very difficult to install top rail. Post hole recommended size is 10 inch diameter and can be filled with one 80 lb bag of concrete instead of three which is a bit overkill. Fence is easy to install by one person but under windy conditions, two are required. My cost was $1,598, including gate kit totaling 12 panel / post and starter post and gate kit. Have seen this fence all over area and looks great. Contractors don't like these fences as they don't rot and are easily cleaned with a hose where as wood fences rarely last 10 years and require annual pressure washing. Biggest problem with fence is only one Lowes store stocked or sold corner post and had to travel 50 miles to get one corner post. Web site stated not available for purchase nor ordering at 11 of the 12 Lowes in S.E. Georgia. Only store in RINCON had in stock or orderable. Found that problem for other items as well at Lowes. Was installing 3/4" conduit for electrical install in metal garage and store ran out of 3/4 corner curved conduit and would not restock as one box ended up missing from stock. Over 2 years later still will NOT stock that item.
I live up in the Northeast and I went with a 12" diameter hole (Hand Dug) versus a 10" since with a 10" hole and a 5" post. From the centerline of the hole is 5" to each side. You then have the post which takes up 2.5" from center. Leaving only 2.5" of concrete per side (Even less in the corner) and since the post is slick, it will not provide a great bond. Going with a 12" hole allows for more concrete around the post which then creates a post that's more stable/rigid. This will help to increase the life of the post and prevent it from rocking and swaying.
@@StreetersGarage Im wondering if maybe drilling a 1" hole on each side of the post that's in the concrete will provide better bond since there will be solid concrete through the holes? I.e the posts couldn't move up or down being locked in.
+ValleyCityPaintball 8’ from center line to center line of the posts. You can do it prior but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s too easy to wonder from a straight line and by the time you get to the end of the run. You’ll be all over the place. I rented a 10” post hole digger but only used it for a couple of holes. It was too much of a PIA to deal with and we ended up just correcting the holes anyway. However my soil was relatively sandy with no rocks or roots. So I had relatively easy digging.
Fence looks great . Did you make your holes 10 or 12 inches (dia) ? That's a 2 1/2 bags or 3 bags depending on diameter. Just curious I'm taking this on myself , next week.
@@StreetersGarage did you put a screw in the bottom rail? I've seen people say they do in the top rail, just curious as the manufacturer doesn't mention this. Man, the only enjoyable part of this job so far is sering each completed panel, it's tough work. Thanks.
+Eric Helme My posts don't move at all. It's all on how you set the posts. I filled the hole first with the concrete and then sunk the post into the mix. So the post is filled with concrete on the exterior and interior to a depth of 3'. The posts are extremely stable. If you go to the center of the panel and push on it, yes there is movement but that's part of the design. Not a flaw.
Understood, thank you for feedback. Based on what you have stated it seems very solid. I am guessing you do not have the aluminum post stiffeners inside either. Those cost another $58 per post, and I am hoping to avoid having to purchase them if I decide to go through with this project. So your recommendation is fill the hole with concrete and then set the post into the concrete and the post are very stiff and stable? This is good to know. The only reason I have asked is because when I walk around my neighborhood and sometimes I will test the vinyl fences that are installed next to the sidewalk, and they all are very unstable, but now I am guessing they did prepare the footings as well as you have. One last question to you.....did you use 12" diameter footings, or what diameter did you use?
I used the quickset (red bag). I dug the hole, set the post in the hole and mixed the concrete in a wheel barrow. The red bag sets up in about 10 minutes. By the time I dug the next hole. The post was firm enough to put the fence into it.
It’s not that hard to do. I did my yard over a couple of weekends and with the help of my wife and couple friends. It went pretty quickly. The biggest challenge is the soil composition which will affect your digging.
This was concerning me as I'm about to install this fence. Freedom, the mnfr, suggests a 10" hole. 3 ft deep & fill 6" with gravel. Im goin w this and crossin my fingers.
I put about 2” of stone on the bottom of the hole. Doing it this way, I’ve had zero heaving with any of the posts. The fence is still dead straight 4 years after the hard winters in the Northeast
@@StreetersGarage I just received my freedom emblem posts and the measurement from the bottom of the post to the bottom of the rail is like 21 inches. You dug 3 foot holes? Something doesn’t add up???
Ultimately it’s cheaper to use the 8’ sections. If you go with 6’ you’ll have more posts and concrete to purchase since the distance between panels will be shorter.
I wish I could see the last 20 seconds of the video to see how your fence looks in the backyard but the stupid ads for your next video are obscuring the ENTIRE picture.
My town did not require it. However I still called them to check for any setback requirements. Biggest thing is knowing where the property line is. Confirm that before you dig the first hole. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video and answering the questions in detail. I have been hesitate about purchasing a fence from Lowe's or Home Depot, because the fence contractors usually speak negatively about the quality of box store PVC fencing. I love the look of your fence and had Lowe's come out to estimate today. I am sure I will go with the Emblem style as well. THANK YOU!
Install it yourself. Easy to do and save yourself some money
@@StreetersGarage how has it held up over the years. I'm considering going with Lowes because the independent fence stores seem over priced.
Zero issues. I’d buy it again without hesitation
@@StreetersGarage thanks for the reply
the tops seem to go up and down...is this an issue?
The rails lock into the post and there’s no movement up or down. The pickets will float within the rails. This is by design.
i'm talking about the top of the fence...it isn't straight...also..I live in a hurricane area...owner wants a vinyl fence...AND..we want to set ALL the posts in concrete FIRST..because we are pouring a new concrete deck and want the deck to wrap around the posts...so, how hard is it to install this type of fence if the posts are all set first?..thanks for your time!
Correct. It’s not straight. It’s designed to follow the pitch of the ground.
No you can’t. The posts need to tilt back to accept the rails. You would never get the bottom rail in of the posts were set
Thanks for the video, but I dont see a link to how you installed it on the retaining wall, which is something u mentioned in the video. Do u still have that link?
ua-cam.com/video/O9cA3wMsTe4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=StreetersGarage
Thanks for making this very good video. I am glad that after 3 years, it is still holding up great. And, I like that you answer so many comments from viewers.
I am going to install this same Freedom fence in about a week or so.
No problem. Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
I fucking hate my neighbors, can I build an 8ft tall fence?
+Eddie Scorsese
Lol. You would need to check with your town building inspector first. But there are companies that do make 8' panels.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Eddie Scorsese my neighbor is the offspring of satan. i want a concrete 10 foot wall that starts 1 foot underground
+ghopeigetit
Putting up the fence was the best thing we ever did. So worth it.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Streeters Garage you said it was like 3k. how many panels/sections was that?
Great video . Your fence looks great and nicely done.
I plan on getting a fence as this . I'm doing research as to what is involved. I only need about 50' feet . I'm inclosing a small portion of my yard and want to install a wide gate , for a car to go through. I know concrete is the best for holding the posts in place . I didn't want to use concrete because I may remove the fence later and relocate it and extend it . Can you tell me a recommendation of putting the posts in the ground without concrete? Perhaps use a longer post ? Any recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
Not sure that I’d install the posts without concrete. I guess you could fill them with crushed stone and hope for the best.
Hows the material holding up to the elements? I live in the midwest and im looking at doing about 300ft what would be your guess at completing 300ft would cost? $4000?
No issues. Not a single broken picket or anything else. Figure about $120 a section which include a post, concrete and a post cap.
@@StreetersGarage they sells these at home deport for 120 a section with the post and concrete?
That was from 2 years ago. Not sure on current pricing at Lowe’s.
Looks great. Makes your space cozy. I will have a fence installed thru Lowes on Friday, but I'm on a corner lot and the fence is coming from Hudson Fence co. In NC. Hope mine looks as good as yours. Enjoy.
Wtf, lowes just told me they don't install fences.
Thanks - It's one of the best things we did to the house. Privacy is underrated!
@@zloungeact Is it possible that your local store don't have skilled people to do it and or can't get find a local contractor for their store to do it. Maybe you can find a contractor your self and get all supplies from Lowes. Good luck I hope you can get a real nice fence built soon.
This was incredibly helpful, thank you.
You’re Welcome and thanks for watching!
Is there anyway you can out the model numbers of the posts, panels, and gate in the comments section? Just want to make sure my fence looks as good as yours does. Thanks and I really appreciate the video. Totally helps tackle a large DIY project easier.
Yes I can
Thanks so much for making this video and your comments solved a lot of my questions. About the kicking off the build my fence 150' long, I decided to go with freedom in lowes because of your video. Do you mind updating the condition of the fence now?
No problem. Glad you liked it.
I’ve had zero issues since it was installed. No broken panels or sagging at all.
Thanks for the video. I’m curious, can you cut the bottom and top rail if you need less than 8 ft? I have 53 feet of ground space that I need to cover. Thanks for you assistance.
Yes you can. Since it’s individual pickets. You can shorten it as much as you need.
I don’t like the gap on the bottom my dog would slide underneath it.
Time to get a bigger dog. 😀
He could have put it lower... his choice/and yours. I also have a smaller dog.
@@fez3327 with the slope of the lot, there’s a rise and fall to the fence. I used a brick to set the height of the fence as we were installing the rails on each post.
On average the height is 2.5 - 3.0 inches of the ground.
The highest is where it meets the retaining wall. For that section, I did attach a piece of wire fencing to the back of the fence and buried it to prevent my two dogs from escaping.
The rest of the fence, not an issue.
Nice! Is the fence still good condition? Im thinking on doing it myselft but people keep telling me don't buy vynil fence from lowes or hp because is not good, its too thin, is it still hding good? Any issues? Thanks for the video!
Zero issues. Not a single broken piece or rail. Still looks the same as the day I installed it.
People have no idea what they’re talking about.
did you said about 220 ft and only paid about 3k? is that good in winter time?? because some people said do not use lowes fence service. i just wonder how it going now. still good ??
3 years and not one issue in the winters of the NorthEast. There’s a lot of people that comment based on their own opinions and not actual facts. Lol
How long did it take you to install? Looking to do my yard, around 250 linear feet. How many people did you use?
Looks great! I have a yellow lab myself, looking to create some privacy plus play yard for the pup.
I did it over 2 weekends. The return on the far end of the yard was easier since it’s mounted on top of a retaining wall. That was one weekend
The long run was done the following weekend. Over 2 days. I was in no rush. On the first day it was my wife and I. The second day it was us and a another couple.
It’s awesome for the dogs. We can let them out and have no worries.
Best part is when they hear a squirrel or a bird in the woods. They go running up to the fence with a futile attempt to chase them. Lol
@@StreetersGarage awesome...I am hoping between myself, my BF and our dad's and maybe a few friends we can get this thing knocked out in a weekend...unrealistic expectations?
We are going to have access to an auger which will help the process go quicker I'm hoping. Fence companies are quoting 3x as much as the cost of materials (plus labor) and scheduling 3 months out. The panels seem pretty straight forward, only hiccup I foresee is some uneven ground and slight sloping on one side of my yard. Was it difficult to adjust the panels to accommodate for the sloping?
For the auger. I would recommend getting one that’s attached to the boom and goes up and down versus the 2 person hand held. With the 12” bit, it can be a struggle to use.
We rented one on Saturday and with my wife on the other end it was difficult to use. We did 2 holes with it and I then just hand dug the rest.
For the slope it’s easy You’ll need to do this.
1.Get a brick or paver or a 2x4 or something.
2. Set your first post and insert the top and bottom rail and the pickets.
3. Did your hole for the next post. And then set the post into the hole.
4. Take your brick and put it by the new post and set the bottom rail on the brick and insert into the post.
5. The brick will set the elevation to the ground and you’ll have the same 3” gap along the entire fence line.
6. Just move the brick along to each new post as you’re moving down the line.
Hope this makes sense.
@@StreetersGarage I will pass along the recommendations...thank you! Was considering the wood fence but with the northeast winters we get near Lake Erie, they can be brutal and if I'm going to put forth the time, effort and money, might as well get something that is worth it! Thanks again!
Same here. I’ve had wood fences before and they look great for the first year but then start to fall apart quickly.
I power wash it once a year and that’s it. I’m in the Northeast and we have some brutal winters and Nor’Easters. After 5 years. We’ve had zero issues. No failures or broken pieces.
We have 2 pit bulls. Sweet dogs, but very energetic. How do you feel about this fence with those dogs? considering wood, but this would be MUCH easier to put up.
I have 2 dogs as well. A whippet and a yellow lab. They do very well with the fence. No issues so far.
Thanks so much for responding! Great vid too!
Jennifer Nicole No problem. Thanks for watching!
I'm sure she has already made her decision, but for large, energetic dogs I would hesitate. If the dog actively resists the fence, they may only be safe with supervision. That may be true of any fence.
Thanks for the video. I am installing this next week and was not sure of quality
Zero issues almost 6 years later.
Was going to do chainlink but after seeing videos like yours I changed my mind. These are easier and look way better.
Yes. Way better than chain link. Just take your time and build it in sections. Mine was done over the course of 2 weekends.
Beautiful fence brother thank you for your video.
You’re Welcome
It's been 6 years now... how is it holding up?
Zero issues.
I have seen reviews that say this fence system is wobbly. What is your opinion on this statement?
Eric Helme
Well it's a plastic fence so there will be some movement in it since the material will grow and shrink with the weather conditions.
However I've had some pretty good wind from thunderstorms and northeasters and I've never seen the fence move.
The type of movement I am referring to....is if you try to sway a post back and forth, then do you get a ripple effect down to the adjacent posts, and they start to sway also?
No. I have this fence at a house I bought in North Myrtle Beach. During Hurricane Matthew one corner blew out. Mine doesn't have the locking tabs on the rail ends, they must have been added later. Anyway, I was able to pick up the pieces that blew out and reassemble it without any tools. Seems pretty sturdy. The only problem I have is the gate which was built too tight for the space. It binds when the gate post sags which is why they sell aluminum I-beam inserts for gate posts now. That and dirt that collects in the bottom rails which allows weeds to grow in the bottom rail.
Great video appreciate the guidance and all the unanswered questions I had other than did you install a gate?
Not on this particular one. I installed a smaller fence along the driveway that had a gate.
Have you had any issues with wind? I live in an a pretty open area and can get some crazy winds here, I can’t seem to find the wind strength
Not at all. Still standing after several Nor’Easters and Tropical Storms.
@@StreetersGarage thank you for the reply & for the great video.
@Travm2189 any time!
who made it? what is the Manufacturer name?
It’s in the description
Woodprix is nice for that.
Thanks for Watching and Please Subscribe!
Perfect to me Vadym
Wood peck like my Johnson?
Awesome to me too Vadym!
Awesome to me too Vadym!
Thank you for this video!! Very helpful!!
You got it
Awesome! I just ordered this fence and was confused whether I should do 12 inch diameter or 15 for the post. Gatehouse says 12 inch, but quikrete says 15in. Quickrete also recommended 9 bags of 50lb for 15 inch diameter. I think they just trying to make more money.
No problem. Glad it helped you out.
I'm up in the Northeast where we get heavy freezing and frost heaves. I've had ZERO issues with the fence doing it this way.
Streeters Garage Also did you install aluminum inserts? People complained that it's wobbly and it can get a little windy down here in Arkansas during storms so I was thinking about putting one every other post. Also for the concrete did you just pour it in and then add water or you pre mix it?
I didn't use any. Typically you'll use them for hanging a gate to reinforce. The fence has gone through several remnants of tropical storms with high winds and it's held up well.
For the concrete, I premixed everything in my wheelbarrow and then shoveled it in wet. I used the stuff in the red bag. It begins to setup in about 15 minutes depending on the day. So make sure that you're post is where you want it before you begin the mixing. It's very unforgiving if you make a mistake.
@@StreetersGarage so the inside of posts do not full with crete? You put post in hole and pour crete in around post only?
@@StreetersGarage in wondering about the post being mostly hollow. Would pouring in crete first be better? Sliding post down into it?
Lowe's said 14k for 245 feet of this
That’s a lot of fence.
The hole 12” deep or wide three bags of concrete seems like a lot to me did you use the 50lb bags or what? I would Appreciate your feed back!
With a 5” post and a 12” hole it leaves you with a 4” “Wall” around the post which helps to stabilize and solidify the concrete. If you went with a smaller hole with a 5” post the thickness of the concreter would be too thin and would have a tendency to crack and not adhere to the post.
@@StreetersGarage I wasn’t criticizing your work just to be clear. You did a great job I appreciate your feed back my main concern is the dept. how much deep you went?
No worries. I didn’t take it that way at all.
I went 3’ deep since it was a 9’ post and the fence was 6’ high.
@@StreetersGarage thank you I figured I would ask anyways thank you again l!!!!
@@fazir22 Awesome. Good luck with your project!
Install post 1: be sure it's plumb. Pour concrete. Let it set.
Install bottom rail and tongue & groove boards. Install top rail.
Do you pour the next post or dry fit the post and then pour?
JTrane25
Once the 1st post is set. Take one of the rails and insert it into the bottom of the 1st post.
From the end of the rail, mark the location of the next hole.
Dig the 2nd hole to the rough depth.
Take a brick or 2x4 and set it between the rail and the ground. This will establish a consistent height for the fence along the ground.
Insert top rail into the 1st post and then insert all of the slats.
Take the 2nd post and snap it into the bottom rail and then the top rail. Adjust for plump and straightness along your strong line.
Mix concrete and place into hole and remove air pockets.
Using the red quickrete bags and assuming a 10 diameter hole. It will need 2.5 bags per post.
Once mixed the post will be firm in 15 minutes.
Can you just buy the top row and bottom row (horizontal panels)? My top and bottom row got damaged in the recent hurricane due to falling branches. I can’t see them individually? Please help.
You can’t get them individually through Lowe’s.
Do you have trees on your property? Or are those leaves coming in from your neighbors tree?
I’m getting this fence installed mainly because I live downhill from my neighbors and I’m knee deep in leaves every fall
Yes. We get leaves from a couple large maple and oak trees. The fence will prevent stuff coming in from the sides but we still have leaves that drop right in.
Its been 3 years. How is the fence holding up?
No issues at all.
You focused the camera a lil too long on the bird poop. Makes me think after a while that white fence is gonna look like...... wellll --- like poop
Negative. That’s a double bogie with no mulligans.
Streeter help me understand how you managed to keep this under $3k. The panels are $110 so even if only 200 feet fence would be $2750 for the just the panels. Looks like you have 20 post @ $32 each would be $640. Then there's the $320 for 60 bags of concrete (3x20 post). I'm at $3710.
+stealth7g
It's $110 per section. This includes 1 post. Just checked lowes and the price actually dropped from $79 to 71 per kit. The posts are still $29 a piece.
Where are you getting your prices?
From the Lowes website
+stealth7g
Also. I didn't use concrete for every hole. There's about 10 posts that are sitting on retaining wall that are being held up by post anchors.
+stealth7g
Looks like your pricing is different or your looking at a different product.
I don't see a kit. What kit dropped from $79 to $71? Mind listing the item number?
I have just one comment how many birds sit on it ? And how much bird poop do you have to wash off every other day ? I noticed one spot on your fence already.
it's a rare occurrence
After all these years, how is it still holding up? And did you install any wood or metal inserts inside the vinyl posts to hold it stronger in the winds?
Zero issue and no inserts.
How long is the warranty? Also how thick is the vinyl like 35mm -45mm????
Not sure. You would need to check out the product details on Lowe’s site.
How does it look 6 years on???
Perfect. No damage at all. I’m going to make a update video in the fall.
Great video thank you. How did you get the sides shortened, cut them? Such as at 5:10 the length is shorter and you used less boards for certain sections.
I used a 4 angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the rails. That way I didn’t have to worry about them chipping.
@@StreetersGarage Great I have one. I'll try that. Thanks again
No problem. You could also use a oscillating tool as well.
I’m just wondering if this will last with California hot summer ? Will it not warp? Deform by the hot summer?
Nope. I’ve gone through many heat waves with temps in the 90’s for weeks and it’s never warped.
The fence allows for expansion
Hows it holding up after 3 yrs? Do you still recommend this product?
Zero issues and Yes I would
God bless . Under $3k . IN NY for a 200ft fence they quote me $9k lncl materials labor and disposal of old wood and link fences
That’s insane. Do it yourself if you can.
Fresh goose poop @ 1:12
Good Eyeballs. Gold Star for paying attention!
Thanks! Nicely done.
Thanks!
Streeters Garage ever 6’ by 8’ is about 120$? I saw in one of your comment but not 100% sure.
Yes that was the rough cost 3 years ago. Material costs have gone up due to the current situation. You’ll need to check and get updated costs.
Is this cheaper and easier? We just had a big tree removed and the fence is terrible and chain link. I’m just looking for a inexpensive way for privacy
If you’re doing it yourself absolutely. It’s fairly easy to install. Looks better than a chain link, you have privacy and low maintenance other than your occasional pressure wash.
Thanks!!
Does the bottom rail has reinforced aluminum or it’s just a plastic?
Just plastic. However it’s completely reinforced with boxed sections in the construction. There’s been zero sagging on the fence. Still very straight.
I'm in Arizona looking to get 1 acre fenced vinyl or wood still haven't decided
Vinyl all the way. Zero maintenance.
Vinyl melts with the slightest grass fire.
Pretty much anything will melt when exposed to fire.
Looks great how much did you spend On the panels?
Thanks. I would check Lowe’s for current pricing.
What is the name of the fence please. Can you spell it for me Thanks
Lowes Freedom
Why so many dislikes but so many nice comments😂
I know right. Lol
Streeters Garage probably haters bro keep grinding and put a couple ads in your video get paid for the hate
Home Depot Employee’s. Lol
How many feet total?
around 80
Does the wooden post go inside the hollow plastic post?
No posts needed
Bird dung spoted!!!
Good Eyeballs. A+ for attention to detail!
Nice! how many feet/panels and posts did you do? full yard or half? I currently am trying to do 2 sides of my yard to finish off the fencing and am trying to price it out to do it myself as well.
Last time I checked it was $120 per - 8 foot panel with 1 post included and 3 bags on concrete.
You can use that as a rough estimate.
The fence is on 3 sides. Garage makes up partial 4th and then we put a 3’ picket.
That fence is also on my channel
Nice video definitely gonna help me install my fence perfect, were your posts 9ft long? Also I see lowes has what I think looks like the exact post for $29 but it says it's for the Everton panel but even the everton looks exactly like the emblem for some reason my posts are $35 for 8ft and $30 for 9ft and my emblem panels are $86
Yes the posts were 9'.
3k in 2016 7k in 2022
Pretty much.
I need the top and bottom rail parts. They were damaged in a storm.
Ok
Originally my thought was to put up a vinyle fence like this one until I done enough research on them being I was hesitant of the vinyle posts that are used in holding the panels up, my hunch was right on that the vinyle posts are NOT strong at all they do not hold up in strong winds the posts break at bottom going into the concrete they first begin to wobble back n forth then snap, its definetly no longer of interest to me a complete waste of money & time...
Well. It’s been up for about 5 years now and It’s lived through several Nor’easters Hurricane and Tropical storms and I haven’t lost a post or panel yet.
@@StreetersGarage maybe its just the way the fence runs that the winds just dont catch the fence to knock it over, my idea was to use schedule 40 fence posts inside the vinyle but not sure if the panel ends would be going up againt the metal posts inside the vinyle restricting them to go in so far? I am most likely going to contact couple makers of these kind of fences to see if metal posts can be use as reinforcement for the vinyle.
I hand dug 18” diameter holes 3 1/2 feet deep and then set the post into the wet concrete. One side of the post has a 2” hole that goes through 2 sides. When the post is inserted into the concrete, it fills the cavity and flows out the hole. Essentially making a concrete pin through the post. There’s no way that post is ever coming out of the ground.
The rails are then inserted into the post and locked in and then a screw is inserted through the railing the inside of the post.
The only way that’s coming out is through a impact from a tree or some other object.
It’s all depends on the person installing it.
@@StreetersGarage I see what your saying though how thick are the walls of the vinyle posts they least 1/4" thick on all four sides?
Correct.
I didn't see the link you mentioned on making that hardware for the retaining wall. Did you end up making that video?
Yes. Its on my channel
I have a pit. How does it stand up to him
Does he have a craving for vinyl? 😀
@@StreetersGarage never thought of that but absolutely, lol
Should be fine. I have 2 medium sized dogs and they’ve haven’t found a way to damage it yet.
How has this held up?
Absolutely zero issues. I’ll be posting a follow up video in a couple of weeks.
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So did you just shovel concrete around the post? Is the post hollow on the bottom? Ive seen some recommendations of putting a 4x4 inside the buried portion of the post. I also heard one guy say he fills the hole w concrete and then drives the post into it.
Set the post in the hole with 2-3” gravel on the bottom.
Mix the concrete in a wheel barrow and then shovel it in.
The post is hollow with 2 1” holes on the sides. As the hole fills it the concrete will go into the post. Essentially forming a key so the post is locked into the concrete preventing it from rotating or lifting.
@@StreetersGarage man thx so much for the helpful info! Great explanations...do u happen to be an engineer? Did u use any post stiffeners? Im going to use them on my gate posts. Any tips on installing the post with the aluminum stiffner?
No problem. I didn't use any stiffners. But they just slide into the post. You'll want to use on on each side of the gate. One for the hinge side and another for the latch side.
Can you install all posts first and then rails/pickets ? Or so u need to do one post and panel and set the next post and panel ?
no, you need to build a section at a time
hi, how far (inches) should the posts be above the top of the fence, to cap, was guessing like 2 inches, but is there a standard?, the fence is 6 feet high.....TIA...Lee
About 3 inches. It's already predetermined though. The posts are already routed to accept the rails.
@@StreetersGarage thanks, but im using the freedom brighton, it uses brackets...
Here’s the install instructions
pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/040933087815_install.pdf?_gl=1*ixxcni*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE1NTgwMDY1OTMuQ2p3S0NBandsUFRtQlJCb0Vpd0FIcXB2aGZmOU9UWmJZOVpOR3FkcWY4SDVvOEd5OXNWT1J4UnpLTnJEc09sc1M4UXB3Rkp0OWJIMWt4b0M1SXNRQXZEX0J3RQ..
Thanks, i learned that i need to buy more concrete. They only sold me one bag per post... im doing 4x4 inside each post and a metal beam in the one that is holding the door. Is this correct?
I used 3 bags for a 5x5 post with the hole being 3' deep by 12" in diameter.
I have installed dozens of wood posts in 24 " holes with one bag each--- for what it's worth.
Are you sure you didn’t mean 120ft??
?
Do 4x4 fence post fit these from Homedepot
No. They’re to small
Hello, how did you cut down the width of the fence at the end where the corner is? Did you use a hacksaw, and then maybe use a white fence screw to secure it to the post?
+Alisha Vehill
Since the fence uses individual pickets you just size it accordingly. You adjust the width to the nearest 6" width by removing a picket.
For the corner where it was an uneven amount. I used an angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel to rip the picket to the correct width. Once cut you attach the expander to it and insert it into the rails. No hardware is needed.
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I noticed some sections don’t look 8 feet wide. Did you have to cut?
Yes. The run on the back wall was not an even amount. If I used 8’ sections it would have left a run of like 3’ or something to that effect.
We measured the uneven distance for the 2 sections and cut it in half.
Yes, you can cut the rails to make it fit if needed.
Thanks for watching!
Any tips on installing the gate or reinforcement to make it more durable?
Make sure the post is 3' deep and that you have the aluminum reinforcing sleeve inserted into the post before you put any concrete into it.
Installed same fence at my house. The boards should be tongue to the direction opposite the direction of fence installation. If fence install is from left to right as seen, install tongue to left as it allows easier installation of top rail, otherwise will be very difficult to install top rail. Post hole recommended size is 10 inch diameter and can be filled with one 80 lb bag of concrete instead of three which is a bit overkill. Fence is easy to install by one person but under windy conditions, two are required. My cost was $1,598, including gate kit totaling 12 panel / post and starter post and gate kit. Have seen this fence all over area and looks great. Contractors don't like these fences as they don't rot and are easily cleaned with a hose where as wood fences rarely last 10 years and require annual pressure washing. Biggest problem with fence is only one Lowes store stocked or sold corner post and had to travel 50 miles to get one corner post. Web site stated not available for purchase nor ordering at 11 of the 12 Lowes in S.E. Georgia. Only store in RINCON had in stock or orderable. Found that problem for other items as well at Lowes. Was installing 3/4" conduit for electrical install in metal garage and store ran out of 3/4 corner curved conduit and would not restock as one box ended up missing from stock. Over 2 years later still will NOT stock that item.
I live up in the Northeast and I went with a 12" diameter hole (Hand Dug) versus a 10" since with a 10" hole and a 5" post. From the centerline of the hole is 5" to each side. You then have the post which takes up 2.5" from center. Leaving only 2.5" of concrete per side (Even less in the corner) and since the post is slick, it will not provide a great bond. Going with a 12" hole allows for more concrete around the post which then creates a post that's more stable/rigid. This will help to increase the life of the post and prevent it from rocking and swaying.
@@StreetersGarage Im wondering if maybe drilling a 1" hole on each side of the post that's in the concrete will provide better bond since there will be solid concrete through the holes? I.e the posts couldn't move up or down being locked in.
Already does
@@StreetersGarage yea saw that after reading further. Thanks. Any further thoughts or suggestions after having it this long? Great job
@@StreetersGarage Such as trimming around the bottom edge? Is it durable enough to weedwack close up to etc?
Hi, what is the distance between posts on the inside? Is it 8' for you? Or shorter? I just bought the and I was considering digging holes prior.
+ValleyCityPaintball 8’ from center line to center line of the posts.
You can do it prior but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s too easy to wonder from a straight line and by the time you get to the end of the run. You’ll be all over the place.
I rented a 10” post hole digger but only used it for a couple of holes. It was too much of a PIA to deal with and we ended up just correcting the holes anyway.
However my soil was relatively sandy with no rocks or roots. So I had relatively easy digging.
I'm having a Christmas giveaway on my channel. Follow the link to enter into it.
ua-cam.com/video/MWOO-BBh7bE/v-deo.html
I know it's been 3 years since your comment but I bet u realized its better to do one hole at a time
Fence looks great .
Did you make your holes 10 or 12 inches (dia) ?
That's a 2 1/2 bags or 3 bags depending on diameter. Just curious I'm taking this on myself , next week.
12” in diameter and 3’ deep
@@StreetersGarage thanks this was the best fence video I watched.
That’s awesome! Glad you liked it.
@@StreetersGarage did you put a screw in the bottom rail? I've seen people say they do in the top rail, just curious as the manufacturer doesn't mention this.
Man, the only enjoyable part of this job so far is sering each completed panel, it's tough work.
Thanks.
John Rich jr. Just the top. This will prevent the posts from spreading out at the top and automatically keep the lower rails in check.
How much did you spend
Around $2500 for everything
Hey did you need to file a permit for that?
Anything under 6’ tall my town didn’t require. Just know where your property lines are located and check for any underground utilities before you dig.
is that the Emblem?
+Imso Pha'Rill
Yes it is.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
thx
Oh, and by sway, I mean move the post perpendicular to the fence line.
+Eric Helme
My posts don't move at all. It's all on how you set the posts. I filled the hole first with the concrete and then sunk the post into the mix. So the post is filled with concrete on the exterior and interior to a depth of 3'. The posts are extremely stable.
If you go to the center of the panel and push on it, yes there is movement but that's part of the design. Not a flaw.
Understood, thank you for feedback. Based on what you have stated it seems very solid. I am guessing you do not have the aluminum post stiffeners inside either. Those cost another $58 per post, and I am hoping to avoid having to purchase them if I decide to go through with this project. So your recommendation is fill the hole with concrete and then set the post into the concrete and the post are very stiff and stable? This is good to know. The only reason I have asked is because when I walk around my neighborhood and sometimes I will test the vinyl fences that are installed next to the sidewalk, and they all are very unstable, but now I am guessing they did prepare the footings as well as you have. One last question to you.....did you use 12" diameter footings, or what diameter did you use?
I meant to type " ....they did not prepare the footings as well as you have".
+Eric Helme
12" hole. You only need the aluminum inserts if you're putting in a gate.
Glad I could help.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Did you have to wait between posts to allow the concrete to dry or just continued installing while still wet?
I used the quickset (red bag). I dug the hole, set the post in the hole and mixed the concrete in a wheel barrow.
The red bag sets up in about 10 minutes. By the time I dug the next hole. The post was firm enough to put the fence into it.
Awesome man.. I think you have convinced me to do it myself. Lowe’s quoted me at over 6000 just in labor.
It’s not that hard to do. I did my yard over a couple of weekends and with the help of my wife and couple friends. It went pretty quickly.
The biggest challenge is the soil composition which will affect your digging.
Is there a way to add a panel to the end post?
If it’s a true end post with no holes. You would need to use a jig saw and make your own.
Thanks. Figured I could use a dremel tool and cut it out. Just need a template
That would work. For a template, use the rails and trace it on the post once you get the spacing marked out.
3 bags of concrete? Seems excessive.
For a 12” diameter hole that’s 3’ deep, 3 bags will put you 3” away from the ground. Enough soil to back fill and plant grass seed.
@@StreetersGarage i think i did see a call out for a 12" 3ft hole somewhere, but i thought it said fill 1 ft with rock.
This was concerning me as I'm about to install this fence. Freedom, the mnfr, suggests a 10" hole. 3 ft deep & fill 6" with gravel. Im goin w this and crossin my fingers.
I put about 2” of stone on the bottom of the hole.
Doing it this way, I’ve had zero heaving with any of the posts. The fence is still dead straight 4 years after the hard winters in the Northeast
Did you insert any 4by4 inside the post at all? Does it feel sturdy enough?
+lester coloma
I didn't. The posts are 3' into the ground with a 12" diameter hole. No issues at all.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Streeters Garage
Ok thanks. How many bags of concrete? You said 3 80 lbs on concrete mix for one post?
+lester coloma
3 bags of the quikset (Red Bags). They are 60 pounds per bag.
They sell and aluminum I beam insert for the gate posts to prevent sag. www.lowes.com/pd/Freedom-Metal-Aluminum-Fence-Post-Insert/3955859
@@StreetersGarage I just received my freedom emblem posts and the measurement from the bottom of the post to the bottom of the rail is like 21 inches. You dug 3 foot holes? Something doesn’t add up???
Thank lots for the video. Now I have clearly idea of what to buy and how much I am expecting to spend 👍🏽
No problem. Glad you liked it!
Did you add the freedom metal aluminum fence post inserts
I didn't. Typically you'll only install them if you're putting in a gate.
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You went for the 6x8 rather than the 6x6 - any particular reason, or you just liked the shape better?
Ultimately it’s cheaper to use the 8’ sections. If you go with 6’ you’ll have more posts and concrete to purchase since the distance between panels will be shorter.
Does the post have an aluminum insert to reinforce it?
Only needed if you’re installing a gate.
I wish I could see the last 20 seconds of the video to see how your fence looks in the backyard but the stupid ads for your next video are obscuring the ENTIRE picture.
Thanks for the positive feedback.
You can see that EXACT shot at 5:00. lol. smh
Or they could have just watched the other video in the series . Lol.
Not high enough to have privacy and security...like 6 feet with no real spikes ppl can jump that easily
That's what the sniper on top of the roof is for.
Do I need a permit for that?
My town did not require it. However I still called them to check for any setback requirements. Biggest thing is knowing where the property line is. Confirm that before you dig the first hole.
Thanks for watching!
definitely check with your city. most cities require a permit for any fence taller than four feet.