This is marvelous. Thank you for this. Many people have responded with "great video". I agree. But even more important than being a "great video", (pacing, audio and video quality, production, personality....) - this is great information and very valuable to anyone who may be interested in implementing either of these materials in an engineering capacity. Thank you.
I've been nearly exclusively printing ABS/ASA parts for at least a year on a modified Ender-3 Pro with Klipper and a geared bowden extruder. Some of my advice goes against the hive mind so take it or leave it but here's what I've learned after a lot of trial and error. First off just get a spring steel PEI bed. The cheap one sold by Creality works great but I prefer thicker PEI. Use an enclosure but it doesn't take much. Whether you buy Creality's, IKEA tables or just use a cardboard box, they all work but let it preheat to at least ~30C before starting. Run most ABS at 105-110C, period. Some can go slightly less but it's not worth it. The heat will NOT damage magnets but some stock bed surfaces may slowly deteriorate. I can't advise against glass enough but if you're set on using it, best of luck and most this advice doesn't apply. On warped Creality beds, please use at least a 5x5 or 7x7 bed mesh. A huge factor for adhesion I wish I'd known early on is to clean PEI sheets with ACETONE between prints, not IPA or anything else. Seriously, try it and thank me later. Squirt a bit on a clean microfiber cloth, NOT directly on the bed. Only when cool, it could cause PEI to crack on a hot bed. For really dirty beds (or you can't get acetone), try only water (ideally distilled) with a little DAWN dish soap. It can be more forgiving to first prep PEI with a scotch bright or mild steel wool but not necessary. You honestly don't need Magigoo every print and definitely not hairspray, gluestick, etc. Yes, they may seem helpful but it's a bad habit and more trouble than they're worth. You should rarely need to use a brim and if you find you always need one and/or glue to keep corners down, there's a problem elsewhere. Again, I wish I'd known all this early on. Nozzle temp is subjective but go as high as you can. I use 255-270C but usually on a tungsten carbide nozzle as CF-ASA is my go-to prototyping material. Most ABS seems to need an extrusion multiplier of 92-95%. Print first layer slow at 105%+ width and squish it ~0.02-0.1mm. By default I run a single 4020 fan with dual ducts at ~15-20% but higher for bridges. Disable for flat parts but low in general. Dry filament usually only needs 2.0-3.0 mm of retraction with pressure/linear advance and ~250 mm/s travel speed @ high acceleration.
@@mif2010a Glad it helped. Keep in mind some rolls/colors are just harder to get clean prints from so try different brands. I'd avoid Amazon but for cheap rolls on sale, I've had good luck with Novamaker's "low odor" ABS.
@@JJFX- Ebay seems to have best prices here in Germany. I bought 2 kg ABS+ for 33 € including 19% taxes and shipping. 2 kg eSun PETG was 26 € just last week. There are probably better filaments, but for twice the price and eSun does decent results. Just need a bit higher flow-rate since the diameter is rather 1,65 mm with all sorts.
@@Leynad778 Esun is usually a solid choice. I'm surprised you're measuring a 0.1mm variance, I rarely measure outside 0.01-0.05 when spot-checking decent brands these days. I've even have great luck with some dirt cheap stuff but Esun seems pretty consistent. I honestly don't think any brands are worth significantly more but you might want to try ASA. IMO the only option really worth paying extra for are specialty products like CF ABS/ASA.
@@JJFX- I usually set the flow-rate to around 110% with eSun filaments even if I measure just 5% difference. Otherwise I see under-extrusion here and there. I've bought ASA twice and with one sort (3djake)I had bad experience (brittle, bad bed adhesion) while the one from Extrudr was easy to print and seems far more durable. But for hopefully more reliable print-results I need to wait till the Bambu Lab Carbon X arrives...
Exceptional quality video, your tests are rigorous and meticulous. You have invested a lot of time to perform such an accurate analysis, congratulations and thank you!
Thank you very much for this video. I am going to order some of the eSUN ASA and give it a shot. I am two weeks into the hobby, and I already think when my ABS spool is done it will be my last. My machine seems to print the Bambu ABS well enough, but I can't justify setting up a "proper" ventilation system for the ABS. I have been pleased with the eSUN PETG in terms of performance/price in the few prints I have tried with it so far, though the lower printing temperature vs. the Bambu PETG has me wondering about heat resistance and strength.
esun never seem to get things right on their spec sheets. You should see what they say for their HDT for PA12-CF nylon! Total fantasy, they obviously don't know what they're doing.
Thanks again for a great video! You inspired me and I’m working on a DIY tensile testing machine to do similar tests to CNC Kitchen but in a much more compact design.
My experience as well using both filaments. eSun ABS+ has really poor layer adhesion quality compared to any other ABS or ASA. I generally use Polymaker ABS if ASA is too expensive, it's as strong as ASA with price similar to eSun ABS+
just one thing, im use de eASA esun FILAMENT , i view in my test, when finish my print, in enclosur , DONT OPEN de enclosur, take time. and when the pemperature of BED and enclosur is at temperature of room (maybe litle difference) OPEN and take the piece! is very importante because the matirial is very sensitive at difference of temp, and your piece contract and your strenght is poor! i use this metod, and mi piece is very strong! but if open quicly mi piece is not resistente the layer adesion is poor! just this ... try and see whith your test the difference! ok now i hope you have a good day. thanks for the video. is very good and i learn mouch things. thank you!
I have a very similar septup like yuors , an ender3 (modified) in a similar tent like that , its works very well for abs , thanks for all the good info and work Igor , have a nice day, yuo , and all yuor familly
Hi I am preparing to build a Voron. Would ASA be a good alternative to ABS. I really like the UV properties of ASA but am concerned it may not stand up to the heat in an enclosed printer.
Yes, I have the whole line of Polymaker PolyLite filaments. It will be 5 filaments in one video, just it takes time to finish it. Maybe in a month (I have some other works in progress)
@@MyTechFun Could you test the eSun ABS Max if you could? Would have be a great addition to these other eSun ABS versions too. Thanks for the great work!
It's here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 but I always combine elements to get exactly the tower I need. Explained here: ua-cam.com/video/Ablfqc3A_uE/v-deo.html
I enjoy your content, however it is a little bit on the long side. You could shorten it for example with only showing a little of the printing and showing with text the chamber temp, hot end temp and print time on screen in text. Also, in English you can't use double past tense in the same sentence. You said it didn't broke. But it is it didn't break. Same works for I didn't saw, which is wrong and should be I didn't see. Keep up the good work!
I know it is long, but there is a content (chapters) and for example, you can jump directly to results (from statistics I can see, that visitors actually do that). And thanks for the English lessons, I didn't know about that. I hope I will remember it, if not, please remind me in the next video :-)
What has happened to your Voron build aspiration? I was very interested in your search for the ideal material for building a 3d printer used in an enclosure. If you could give a recap on any undocumented findings so far it would be nice to hear. Better yet, a youtube video or series that continues the search for the best material to use for an enclosed 3d printer would be amazing.
I did, but not in one video. So far eSun ABS+ would be great, but it has weak layer adhesion and this is something I experienced several times. Adding additives to improve some specs results weaker layer adhesion. Regular ABS (or ASA) is better
Esun must be more carefull with there data , i remember saw that "54 degree" in the data for that Asa , and then think ..well im not gone Buy it couse i need a temperature resistant material, so i buy Abs (normal one),but i saw now is a mistake in the print
What value was the part cooling in % for your printer? (edit 4:39 you can see it was 30% :D) Can you make a comparison between different ASA brands? I like ASA because I often print technical parts and it has some nice advantages (litte creep, nice impact resistance, UV resistance, high temp resistance) without having problems with moisture like PC or Nylon. Can you also test Prusament PC blend. Love your videos, Igor!
30 but not %, that scale is 0-255. (approx 12%). Two reasons I don't turn it off: 1) Ender3V2 have big error, motherboard fan is connected with part cooling fan, if I turn the part cooling, mainboard and stepper drivers don't get any cooling (I will rewire this). 2) No big effect to layer adhesion, but I get acceptable overhangs.
Always try a flow test for abs (prunt a cube of 1 wall , 0 infill , no top ,no botom ),musure the walls thin , then calculate the optimal flow , then do the test , as for me , its always less than 100% llike 92-94% for the flow , if yuo dont fo that , yuor print line diameter gone be biger that the software think , producing "fat" prints 😅😅 (maybe yuo known this , but just for help)
Well done, and interesting as always. Pray for Ukraine and please donate to relief efforts like the Samaritan's Purse. I do not work for them, but I have donated because I trust them. Thanks.
This is marvelous. Thank you for this. Many people have responded with "great video". I agree. But even more important than being a "great video", (pacing, audio and video quality, production, personality....) - this is great information and very valuable to anyone who may be interested in implementing either of these materials in an engineering capacity. Thank you.
I've been nearly exclusively printing ABS/ASA parts for at least a year on a modified Ender-3 Pro with Klipper and a geared bowden extruder. Some of my advice goes against the hive mind so take it or leave it but here's what I've learned after a lot of trial and error. First off just get a spring steel PEI bed. The cheap one sold by Creality works great but I prefer thicker PEI. Use an enclosure but it doesn't take much. Whether you buy Creality's, IKEA tables or just use a cardboard box, they all work but let it preheat to at least ~30C before starting. Run most ABS at 105-110C, period. Some can go slightly less but it's not worth it. The heat will NOT damage magnets but some stock bed surfaces may slowly deteriorate. I can't advise against glass enough but if you're set on using it, best of luck and most this advice doesn't apply. On warped Creality beds, please use at least a 5x5 or 7x7 bed mesh.
A huge factor for adhesion I wish I'd known early on is to clean PEI sheets with ACETONE between prints, not IPA or anything else. Seriously, try it and thank me later. Squirt a bit on a clean microfiber cloth, NOT directly on the bed. Only when cool, it could cause PEI to crack on a hot bed. For really dirty beds (or you can't get acetone), try only water (ideally distilled) with a little DAWN dish soap. It can be more forgiving to first prep PEI with a scotch bright or mild steel wool but not necessary. You honestly don't need Magigoo every print and definitely not hairspray, gluestick, etc. Yes, they may seem helpful but it's a bad habit and more trouble than they're worth. You should rarely need to use a brim and if you find you always need one and/or glue to keep corners down, there's a problem elsewhere. Again, I wish I'd known all this early on.
Nozzle temp is subjective but go as high as you can. I use 255-270C but usually on a tungsten carbide nozzle as CF-ASA is my go-to prototyping material. Most ABS seems to need an extrusion multiplier of 92-95%. Print first layer slow at 105%+ width and squish it ~0.02-0.1mm. By default I run a single 4020 fan with dual ducts at ~15-20% but higher for bridges. Disable for flat parts but low in general. Dry filament usually only needs 2.0-3.0 mm of retraction with pressure/linear advance and ~250 mm/s travel speed @ high acceleration.
thank you for sharing. adjusted my settings and getting better results now.
@@mif2010a Glad it helped. Keep in mind some rolls/colors are just harder to get clean prints from so try different brands. I'd avoid Amazon but for cheap rolls on sale, I've had good luck with Novamaker's "low odor" ABS.
@@JJFX- Ebay seems to have best prices here in Germany. I bought 2 kg ABS+ for 33 € including 19% taxes and shipping. 2 kg eSun PETG was 26 € just last week. There are probably better filaments, but for twice the price and eSun does decent results. Just need a bit higher flow-rate since the diameter is rather 1,65 mm with all sorts.
@@Leynad778 Esun is usually a solid choice. I'm surprised you're measuring a 0.1mm variance, I rarely measure outside 0.01-0.05 when spot-checking decent brands these days. I've even have great luck with some dirt cheap stuff but Esun seems pretty consistent.
I honestly don't think any brands are worth significantly more but you might want to try ASA. IMO the only option really worth paying extra for are specialty products like CF ABS/ASA.
@@JJFX- I usually set the flow-rate to around 110% with eSun filaments even if I measure just 5% difference. Otherwise I see under-extrusion here and there. I've bought ASA twice and with one sort (3djake)I had bad experience (brittle, bad bed adhesion) while the one from Extrudr was easy to print and seems far more durable. But for hopefully more reliable print-results I need to wait till the Bambu Lab Carbon X arrives...
Great stuff as always! Yours is probably the most valuable channel for the 3d-printing community when it comes to making functional prints. Thank you!
I just discovered your channel and I LOVE your ALL your multi-day tests, but that torque test over days and the rotation graph is just **chef's kiss**
That impact test on the ABS+ was damn impressive too!
Exceptional quality video, your tests are rigorous and meticulous. You have invested a lot of time to perform such an accurate analysis, congratulations and thank you!
Great work! Decided to try some of their ASA because of this video. ESUN should be sponsoring you👍
I’ve been waiting for this video. Thanks you Egor.
Thank you very much for this video. I am going to order some of the eSUN ASA and give it a shot. I am two weeks into the hobby, and I already think when my ABS spool is done it will be my last. My machine seems to print the Bambu ABS well enough, but I can't justify setting up a "proper" ventilation system for the ABS. I have been pleased with the eSUN PETG in terms of performance/price in the few prints I have tried with it so far, though the lower printing temperature vs. the Bambu PETG has me wondering about heat resistance and strength.
This is exactly what I was looking for eASA vs ABS+ from eSUN. thanks
great video as always 👍🙂
I love all the test you make!
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
Thanks a lot for this extensive test and for a lot of work that went into this, will apply the knowledge gained!
Very well done, thank you.
Thank you. This video was extremely informative.
esun never seem to get things right on their spec sheets. You should see what they say for their HDT for PA12-CF nylon! Total fantasy, they obviously don't know what they're doing.
So thorough, well done!
What a great video! Subscribed!
Thank you for these videos sir
Thanks again for a great video! You inspired me and I’m working on a DIY tensile testing machine to do similar tests to CNC Kitchen but in a much more compact design.
My experience as well using both filaments. eSun ABS+ has really poor layer adhesion quality compared to any other ABS or ASA. I generally use Polymaker ABS if ASA is too expensive, it's as strong as ASA with price similar to eSun ABS+
magnificent information!
just one thing, im use de eASA esun FILAMENT , i view in my test, when finish my print, in enclosur , DONT OPEN de enclosur, take time. and when the pemperature of BED and enclosur is at temperature of room (maybe litle difference) OPEN and take the piece! is very importante because the matirial is very sensitive at difference of temp, and your piece contract and your strenght is poor! i use this metod, and mi piece is very strong! but if open quicly mi piece is not resistente the layer adesion is poor! just this ... try and see whith your test the difference! ok now i hope you have a good day. thanks for the video. is very good and i learn mouch things. thank you!
I had no idea ASA was less prone to creeping. Good to know.
I would note this is ASA vs ABS+ ... regular ABS ought to be very close to or better than ASA.
great vid as usual! have just bought you a few “coffees”. Keep calm and print on! ;)
Thank you Alex, I am happy that you liked the video.
Very interesting video. Thanks a lot!
I have a very similar septup like yuors , an ender3 (modified) in a similar tent like that , its works very well for abs , thanks for all the good info and work Igor , have a nice day, yuo , and all yuor familly
Great review - thx!!
First comment! Keep up the good work :)
Dziękujemy.
Hi I am preparing to build a Voron. Would ASA be a good alternative to ABS. I really like the UV properties of ASA but am concerned it may not stand up to the heat in an enclosed printer.
Many people build the voron from ASA and it works. Nylon not.
@@MyTechFun TY :)
What temperature did you use for normal eSun ASAprinting? And did you replace a part of the printer?
Top class work here - Could you do regular ABS vs regular ASA, from another brand?
Yes, I have the whole line of Polymaker PolyLite filaments. It will be 5 filaments in one video, just it takes time to finish it. Maybe in a month (I have some other works in progress)
@@MyTechFun I look forward to that one as Polymaker is what I usually use due to easy printing and so far good availability here in the US.
@@MyTechFun Could you test the eSun ABS Max if you could? Would have be a great addition to these other eSun ABS versions too. Thanks for the great work!
Hi!
could you tell what parameters you finally used Fit the ABS +
250°C nozzle
Ventilación fan speed 12%
Velocity 50mm/s?
…
Thank you!!
Yes, default settings for slicer and generic materials.
Excellent! What size are the bolts used in the torque creep test and what are they torqued to?
M5
Hi Igor. Can you please post a link to where I can download the same temp tower that you used in this video. Thanks.
It's here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 but I always combine elements to get exactly the tower I need. Explained here: ua-cam.com/video/Ablfqc3A_uE/v-deo.html
I enjoy your content, however it is a little bit on the long side. You could shorten it for example with only showing a little of the printing and showing with text the chamber temp, hot end temp and print time on screen in text. Also, in English you can't use double past tense in the same sentence. You said it didn't broke. But it is it didn't break. Same works for I didn't saw, which is wrong and should be I didn't see.
Keep up the good work!
I know it is long, but there is a content (chapters) and for example, you can jump directly to results (from statistics I can see, that visitors actually do that). And thanks for the English lessons, I didn't know about that. I hope I will remember it, if not, please remind me in the next video :-)
I disagree. I think its a nicely detailed presentation. There are also timestamps if you wish to skip.
Excellent! Please could you tell me what bolt size and torque you use for the creep test?
M5 ua-cam.com/video/88pk2cNOeGE/v-deo.htmlsi=FM_n1wIoy7yp-eJB&t=344
Thanks Igor @@MyTechFun
What has happened to your Voron build aspiration? I was very interested in your search for the ideal material for building a 3d printer used in an enclosure. If you could give a recap on any undocumented findings so far it would be nice to hear. Better yet, a youtube video or series that continues the search for the best material to use for an enclosed 3d printer would be amazing.
I did, but not in one video. So far eSun ABS+ would be great, but it has weak layer adhesion and this is something I experienced several times. Adding additives to improve some specs results weaker layer adhesion. Regular ABS (or ASA) is better
Esun must be more carefull with there data , i remember saw that "54 degree" in the data for that Asa , and then think ..well im not gone Buy it couse i need a temperature resistant material, so i buy Abs (normal one),but i saw now is a mistake in the print
Where is the data matrix from? your own or provided by eSun?
At 1:06? That paper arrives in eSun box. At 21:54 those are my results.
@@MyTechFun sorry, sure 1:06 i ment. Did not open my eSun until now. Yes there it is 🤣 The other is also on your website, thanks for investigating.
glue stick but you also need a brim, seems odd.
What did he put on the bed before printing
PVA based glue stick
What value was the part cooling in % for your printer? (edit 4:39 you can see it was 30% :D)
Can you make a comparison between different ASA brands? I like ASA because I often print technical parts and it has some nice advantages (litte creep, nice impact resistance, UV resistance, high temp resistance) without having problems with moisture like PC or Nylon. Can you also test Prusament PC blend. Love your videos, Igor!
30 but not %, that scale is 0-255. (approx 12%). Two reasons I don't turn it off: 1) Ender3V2 have big error, motherboard fan is connected with part cooling fan, if I turn the part cooling, mainboard and stepper drivers don't get any cooling (I will rewire this). 2) No big effect to layer adhesion, but I get acceptable overhangs.
I have on test two more brands (AzureFilm, Polymaker), then I will test every Prusament too in one video, I already bought them.
hmm hhm.. u have a strong hungarian accent.
Always try a flow test for abs (prunt a cube of 1 wall , 0 infill , no top ,no botom ),musure the walls thin , then calculate the optimal flow , then do the test , as for me , its always less than 100% llike 92-94% for the flow , if yuo dont fo that , yuor print line diameter gone be biger that the software think , producing "fat" prints 😅😅 (maybe yuo known this , but just for help)
You make the most long-winded videos. You are very thorough which is good, but geez make things more concise and more to the point.
Well done, and interesting as always. Pray for Ukraine and please donate to relief efforts like the Samaritan's Purse. I do not work for them, but I have donated because I trust them. Thanks.
Bro i love your videos but please work on your English it is hard as hell to understand you
Very interesting video. Thank you.👍