I normally browse UA-cam anonymously, but I just had to login to say thank you for the effort you put in your videos. Really appreciate the effort and time you take to produce a properly measured test results. Again, thank you.
Concerning bed adhesion - I'm repeating a recipe I read some time ago which has worked very well for me: Elmer's liquid glue or equal - 1 part Isopropyl Alcohol (or maybe even Methylated Spirits) - 2 parts Tap water - 2 parts Mix the glue and water together thoroughly, then add the alcohol. Put the mixture in a squeeze bottle and apply evenly to the build plate with some paper towelling. Heating the bed will dry the mix. To remove residue, simply use warm water, dishwashing liquid and a nylon type scrubbing pad. If you need more adhesion you can increase the glue proportion, or in extreme cases (eg Nylon) try Elmer's glue neat.
An incredibly useful video! I particularly liked the creep tests - I haven’t seen anyone do them before, and I have an immediate application where I’m concerned about creep. (It’s in PLA though; I’m going to go check out your site to see if you have similar tests there for PLA)
Here is my first creep test (PLA, PETG, ABS, Nylon) ua-cam.com/video/88pk2cNOeGE/v-deo.html PLA is the strongest but only on room temperature. A little bit higher, it creeps a lot (more in the video)
@@MyTechFun Ah, thanks for that! My application will be at room temperature (it will always be in an airconditioned space), so it seems like it will work fine. Thanks again for your excellent, well-thought-out and detailed tests! They're everything and more than I would think of to do, even if I had the time 🙂
@riba2233 from my research it seems like everything requires some percent of a blend because PC isn’t really ideal to extrude through a nozzle. But still i’d like something with PC properties lol even if its hard to print
Thanks for doing the tests, especially the creep tests. It's hard to find creep tests anywhere else and it really shows that although nylon can withstand high temperatures and has other favorable properties, it's still not useful in an application with a continuous load. The PC impact test surprised me. Stefan Hermann found that at least the prusament pc blend had about the same impact strength as abs. My understanding is that most easy to print PC blends contain either abs or asa, so maybe that's the difference.
I absolutely love your indepth detailed videos. The reason I think your channel isn't blowing up is the lack of compactness of delivered information. Yes you provide a wealth of quality information but many people are impatient and want that information delivered rapidly-ish. You provide quality information and I hope to see you truly succeed in your endeavors!
Thanks for suggestion. These kind of videos always have timestamps to summary and results, so visitors can skip to that part. Yes, I know, most of them don't look for the contents, but it's there. I know my progress will be slower, but I want to keep this style. Sometimes the video is useful to me too, to remind me about some settings and similar.
Thank you for sharig , we can see you ave put a alot of effort for us to see With my experiance i have replaced the glass bed plate and now use a magnetic build plate to get proper adhesion and practually no warping using Esun EPA CF 1.75 bed temp 48 hot end 252
Great Video! We use nylon in production where I work and have similar results to what you showed. Alloy 910 nylon from Taulman that we use most has much less warping. Other fiber reinforced nylons we use a G10(Garolite bed) a thick one works best and is easy to find if you look at raw material vendors. The worst warping material we have will still stay as adhered but warp the whole bed. I would recommend G10 more then the magi goo we have used both and both work but garolite works better.
@@MyTechFun We use 260C nozzle and 55C for the bed glass with regular glue stick seems to work well with this nylon blend with little warping. We use a Ultimakers S5 with a air manager so it is enclosed but not completely and no active heating. Not as hygroscopic as other nylons but we’ve done a test putting printed parts in 100% Relative humidity for 18 hrs by putting it in a dry box with wet silicagel in a warm room and found the stiffness was significantly less and the creep was really bad.
First of all great video as always 👍🏼 I don’t find 30 min too long btw. Keep it up man. Concerning the creeping of Nylon, Stefan from CNCKitchen suggested in his “High Speed Printing” video to temper/anneal the parts. Maybe you could do some testing on that aspect? Furthermore, eSun also offers the ePA-CF (which I use quite often) and ePAHT-CF. Would be really interesting to see how they perform in comparison Edit: NERO mentioned in one of his streams, that PC is not recommended for Vorons because of its tendency to become very brittle and prone to cracking when exposed to grease and oils. So ABS/ASA is the only material, that checks all the boxes, although it’s not very heat resistant
Jay, thanks for this great info. Yes, PC is already brittle (impact test). Soon I'll do similar test to compare eASA vs ABS+. First I'll try annealing PLA (but I know I'll lost accuracy, it will deform). There will ve some CF test too, but step by step.
@@MyTechFun Cool, glad I could help. The nice thing about annealing PA is, that it didn't shrink at all in Stefan's case (he tempered his PA-CF parts at 160°C for 2h). PLA parts become unusable when annealing, so it was never an option for me. Regarding PC, I think it really depends on which blend is used. In his test about Prusament PC, the best impact test performance of all materials is achieved by Polymaker's PolyMax PC (even better than PP, which is usually the king of impact strength), whilst the Prusament Blend only ranges slightly above ABS. Layer adhesion on the other hand, both one of the better materials and a lot better than ABS. So these PCs don't seem to be brittle and really strong all around. I'm really looking forward to see some test about the new Prusament PC Carbon, as it seems to print as easy as PLA. Hope the mechanical properties won't disappoint.
Very interesting comparisons. ABS impact test... Opa indeed! (Sorry if I spelt that wrong, but it reminded me of my Hungarian friend and made me smile!).
I have lots of success print with the esun ePa nylon on prusa mini+ using satin sheet and glue stick without enclosure. Print in my bedroom, 250c nozzle and 90c heatbed. Almost no warping when printing small object like machine spareparts about 5cm diameter. I like to wash the satin sheet with tap water when removing the object from steel sheet.
Hello, thank you so much for creating all these informative videos about material testing. I'm currently working on this topic as well since I want to compare different 3d printing materials in one of my school's projects. Do you have tips on how to construct/build the machines (like your izod impact test with the hammer)?
For IZOD impact test you can just use a hammer, try to solve somehow the axis and rotating. For smoother rotating, use ball bearings. The reading: or use camera (like I do, because we need that difference in height) or add some angle meter, which stays in place. But then you have to calculate the height from those angles.
Hi Igor I enjoy your channel and I think it's useful that you test filaments , however you may want to streamline some tests like the torsion test. I did notice that your test with eSun ABS+ looks very underextruded , I use that material and I found that it's very important to calibrate the flow because it tends to underextrude. Most of my filament flow are around 96% except for eSun ABS+ I has to set it to 105% to get the correct result. My guess is that if you retest the filament with the correct flow your results will change significantly.
Thanks Andre, my first print with ABS+ was really brittle with poor layer adhesion. Saw your comment and increased the extrusion rate by 10% and the next print was way stronger.
Thanks for another good video, but I have to say, eSun ABS+ and PC is probably some of the worst filaments I have ever used, they make a great PLA+ but their more advance stuff specially the PA-CF upwards are over priced and are just plain awful compared to competitor products, and I have printers with regulated chamber heating too, I would not waste $1 on their filaments above PLA+
I don't print ABS but I have heard from nero3d that before you open the enclosure, you want the enclosure to cool down so that the particles in the abs filament are no longer volatile. Once the particles have hardened and deposited on the walls of the enclosure it shouldn't be a health risk anymore. I haven't had the opportunity to test it with the particle sensor I have, I don't know if it can detect the harmful VOCs, I think you, with your scientific background can probably come up with a better answer than me.
Great video, really surprised for the ABS+ impact! Might be based on ABS HI10 or the MG94. For nylon Magigoo PA is really good. PA6 and PA6.6 based materials are some times easier to print (so surprised that eSun ePA was that difficult) than PA12 based blends. It sounds counter intuitive, but most nylons don't do well with high enclosure temperatures. Having an enclosure and a stable environment is good, but heat/energy is not always the answer. Warm air and a heated bed at a temperature that dries any glue stick or coating applied does not help nylon stick. A smooth garolite G10-FR4 print surface can be very good for nylons that warp. One more trick with materials like Polyamide or Polypropylene that don't stick to many print surfaces is to use large brims, overextrude for the first layer and create almost a suction cup surface as your first layer. After the first layer is good and "sucking" the print surface (like suction cups on glass), the interlayer adhesion of most nylons (as you have seen with this one as well) is so good that you will not have any issues. There are polyamides that are very modified to 3d print very easily! Usually the difficult polyamides are the blends that are used in other industries (sheets, films, foils, injection molding etc) and were made into filament without any modifications.
That's probably because nylon is semi-crystalline. PC and ABS are both amorphous, hence hotter usually = better. It's probably why ABS and PC perform fairly similarly in these tests, but nylon has wildly different results. Nylon often has a surprisingly low glass transition temperature.
Awesome info. Thorough and concise. 10/10 By any chance could you test the "stronger" carbon fiber filaments? CF Polycarbonate, CF polypropylene, CF ASA, and CF Nylon and maybe PCTG in its standard form as i do not believe there is a CF varient yet. No one has a good video of scientific comparisons with these materials. Subbed.
I think you should retest these filaments if you have an enclosed 3d printer with space heating. Especially for Nylon and PC, they will be much stronger.
Nice video and thanks for your efforts. Unfortunately all specimens have been cocked wrong. First thing you have to wait till the chamber cools down naturally. Which means parts have to be removed after some time. Your Ender setup is good for ABS only. To get proper printing of Nylon or PC it should be around 70C-80C inside the chamber to get full straight. Also Nylon gets full properties after too weeks when it exposed to moister funny yeah :) Answering to your question about Voron and PC isn’t good idea cause bearings contain oil which destroys PC parts. :)
@@AnnikaFPV ePC is not a pure PC otherwise it would have needed 300 degrees or mre, i've also heard you need 85-90 degrees in a chamber for abs, however i doubt that's feasible because even stepper motors are rated for 80 degrees, it also depends on what the temperature was around the parts themselves.
Nagyon kedvelem a videóidat, főleg az mechanikai tesztek de amúgy mindent, szóval nagyon jók. Csak annyit a nylon anyagról hogy én ender3-as gépen (zárt) pritt stiftet használok, ezt már szintezés után kenem fel kb. 60 fokos asztalra (ablak üveg) és utána felfűtöm. A cura szeletelőben raftot állítok be de a felső két simító réteget kihagyom mert az már nagyon húzza fölfelé, az airgap pedig 0.15mm 0.2 réteg vastagságnál. Eddig még minden lent maradt kunkorodás nélkül, bár nehéz a rafttól megszabadulni mert ez bizony össze heged nem úgy mint az asa-nál hogy szépen elválik. Mondják hogy a Magigoo egy csoda de picit sokallom az árát de egyszer majd kipróbálom ha cserben hagy a tapadás.
@@MyTechFun Nem tudom, nem mértem. Nem lehetett több mint nálad mert én egy 8 centis ventivel a doboz tetején húzom ki a fölösleges meleg levegőt, a dobozom alján szellőző nyílások vannak hogy az alaplap kapjon hűtést. A bed alatt mérem, ott max. 30-32 fok van.
49.99 USD on Amazon US. But it is still quite expensive.. I agree. There are other no warping nylons for half the price that print nicely too, but the quality is not the same. You can tell a doubtful quality nylon by the smell when it's printing. The cheaper one smells like a mud swamp (because of the dirty water they cool it down into) and also by mechanical tests. Easy test for you to try: extrude certain length of CoPA in mid air and then pull the string apart. You'll notice it will stretch and stretch and just break when most of the strand has already been stretched. With the cheaper nylon just a small section of the strand will stretch before breaking. Temperature resistance of the cheaper nylon is also a bit lower. Don't get me wrong.. the cheaper nylon is fine for most aplications, but for a nerd like me, Polymide CoPA is worth it :)
If you decide to do less tests in future, please continue the layer adhesion and creep tests; we can usually get specifications from manufacturers for other specifications, but not for creep and adhesion. Those two tests are very important! Thanks
Anything not even printing properly is completely out of question. It is useless for almost all purposes. I am mostly interested in printing properties and second to this the mechanical properties. All mechanical properties are of zero interest if it is difficult to print on a normal printer. I use enclosed and full metal hot end on like 300c is max for me. This means ASA/ABS will warp slightly. PC will warp significantly as well. PLA+ and PLA obviously does not warp. But I need slightly higher thermal properties. I kind of need a mix between PLA and ASA. Considered PETG but not done extensive testing.
I normally browse UA-cam anonymously, but I just had to login to say thank you for the effort you put in your videos. Really appreciate the effort and time you take to produce a properly measured test results. Again, thank you.
Thankyou for making eSUN specific video, here in offline shop Indonesia we only have cheap unreliable filament. And eSUN is the only decent brand.
Concerning bed adhesion - I'm repeating a recipe I read some time ago which has worked very well for me:
Elmer's liquid glue or equal - 1 part
Isopropyl Alcohol (or maybe even Methylated Spirits) - 2 parts
Tap water - 2 parts
Mix the glue and water together thoroughly, then add the alcohol. Put the mixture in a squeeze bottle and apply evenly to the build plate with some paper towelling. Heating the bed will dry the mix.
To remove residue, simply use warm water, dishwashing liquid and a nylon type scrubbing pad.
If you need more adhesion you can increase the glue proportion, or in extreme cases (eg Nylon) try Elmer's glue neat.
Your testing methods are great, not too long because you add time markers for those who just want the results.
An incredibly useful video! I particularly liked the creep tests - I haven’t seen anyone do them before, and I have an immediate application where I’m concerned about creep. (It’s in PLA though; I’m going to go check out your site to see if you have similar tests there for PLA)
Here is my first creep test (PLA, PETG, ABS, Nylon) ua-cam.com/video/88pk2cNOeGE/v-deo.html PLA is the strongest but only on room temperature. A little bit higher, it creeps a lot (more in the video)
@@MyTechFun Ah, thanks for that! My application will be at room temperature (it will always be in an airconditioned space), so it seems like it will work fine.
Thanks again for your excellent, well-thought-out and detailed tests! They're everything and more than I would think of to do, even if I had the time 🙂
ePC is probably a blend. Pure PC has excellent layer adhesion but you need to print it around 290c not 250. Great video!
Do you know where to get pure PC thats good? I cannot seem to find pure PC. Companies use blends but wont advertise it as a blend..
@@Javii96 same lol
@riba2233 from my research it seems like everything requires some percent of a blend because PC isn’t really ideal to extrude through a nozzle. But still i’d like something with PC properties lol even if its hard to print
@riba2233 i think the polylite pc is prett close to true PC. Closer than polymax for sure
@@Javii96 probably yeah
Thank you for your excellent work. Please keep doing all the tests because they are important for the progress in the material sciences.
Thank you for this video. I was waiting for the creep tests ! Concerning ePA I have had good results with glass at 35°C + glue stick.
Thanks for doing the tests, especially the creep tests. It's hard to find creep tests anywhere else and it really shows that although nylon can withstand high temperatures and has other favorable properties, it's still not useful in an application with a continuous load. The PC impact test surprised me. Stefan Hermann found that at least the prusament pc blend had about the same impact strength as abs. My understanding is that most easy to print PC blends contain either abs or asa, so maybe that's the difference.
Soon I will test prusament line too. We will see..
I absolutely love your indepth detailed videos. The reason I think your channel isn't blowing up is the lack of compactness of delivered information. Yes you provide a wealth of quality information but many people are impatient and want that information delivered rapidly-ish.
You provide quality information and I hope to see you truly succeed in your endeavors!
Thanks for suggestion. These kind of videos always have timestamps to summary and results, so visitors can skip to that part. Yes, I know, most of them don't look for the contents, but it's there. I know my progress will be slower, but I want to keep this style. Sometimes the video is useful to me too, to remind me about some settings and similar.
wonderful, thanks for all your hard work - and not too many tests!
Excellent video, Igor.
All the tests have merit. I hope you keep them.
Actually, I have plan to add some new ones too. PLEASE, somebody stop me!
Thank you for sharig , we can see you ave put a alot of effort for us to see
With my experiance i have replaced the glass bed plate and now use a magnetic build plate to get proper adhesion and practually no warping using Esun EPA CF 1.75 bed temp 48 hot end 252
Very interesting to watch, please keep doing these and don’t be afraid to do 30 minutes Videos as they are very informative.
Not too many tests, IMO. All of them characterize different use cases, so thanks!
Wow this is actually an amazing video and actually gave me info. Thank you
Great Video! We use nylon in production where I work and have similar results to what you showed. Alloy 910 nylon from Taulman that we use most has much less warping. Other fiber reinforced nylons we use a G10(Garolite bed) a thick one works best and is easy to find if you look at raw material vendors. The worst warping material we have will still stay as adhered but warp the whole bed. I would recommend G10 more then the magi goo we have used both and both work but garolite works better.
Thanks for this useful info , 910 added to my testing list. What is your printing, bed and enclosure temperature?
@@MyTechFun We use 260C nozzle and 55C for the bed glass with regular glue stick seems to work well with this nylon blend with little warping. We use a Ultimakers S5 with a air manager so it is enclosed but not completely and no active heating. Not as hygroscopic as other nylons but we’ve done a test putting printed parts in 100% Relative humidity for 18 hrs by putting it in a dry box with wet silicagel in a warm room and found the stiffness was significantly less and the creep was really bad.
Exactly what I was looking for, excellent and detailed test setup!
First of all great video as always 👍🏼 I don’t find 30 min too long btw. Keep it up man.
Concerning the creeping of Nylon, Stefan from CNCKitchen suggested in his “High Speed Printing” video to temper/anneal the parts. Maybe you could do some testing on that aspect?
Furthermore, eSun also offers the ePA-CF (which I use quite often) and ePAHT-CF. Would be really interesting to see how they perform in comparison
Edit: NERO mentioned in one of his streams, that PC is not recommended for Vorons because of its tendency to become very brittle and prone to cracking when exposed to grease and oils. So ABS/ASA is the only material, that checks all the boxes, although it’s not very heat resistant
Jay, thanks for this great info. Yes, PC is already brittle (impact test). Soon I'll do similar test to compare eASA vs ABS+. First I'll try annealing PLA (but I know I'll lost accuracy, it will deform). There will ve some CF test too, but step by step.
@@MyTechFun Cool, glad I could help. The nice thing about annealing PA is, that it didn't shrink at all in Stefan's case (he tempered his PA-CF parts at 160°C for 2h). PLA parts become unusable when annealing, so it was never an option for me.
Regarding PC, I think it really depends on which blend is used. In his test about Prusament PC, the best impact test performance of all materials is achieved by Polymaker's PolyMax PC (even better than PP, which is usually the king of impact strength), whilst the Prusament Blend only ranges slightly above ABS. Layer adhesion on the other hand, both one of the better materials and a lot better than ABS. So these PCs don't seem to be brittle and really strong all around.
I'm really looking forward to see some test about the new Prusament PC Carbon, as it seems to print as easy as PLA. Hope the mechanical properties won't disappoint.
Very interesting comparisons.
ABS impact test... Opa indeed!
(Sorry if I spelt that wrong, but it reminded me of my Hungarian friend and made me smile!).
Fantastic, this is exactly the information I needed, thank you.
Just increase part cooling for ABS. Curling is not an issue when the enclosure is hot enough.
I have lots of success print with the esun ePa nylon on prusa mini+ using satin sheet and glue stick without enclosure. Print in my bedroom, 250c nozzle and 90c heatbed. Almost no warping when printing small object like machine spareparts about 5cm diameter.
I like to wash the satin sheet with tap water when removing the object from steel sheet.
Hello, thank you so much for creating all these informative videos about material testing. I'm currently working on this topic as well since I want to compare different 3d printing materials in one of my school's projects.
Do you have tips on how to construct/build the machines (like your izod impact test with the hammer)?
For IZOD impact test you can just use a hammer, try to solve somehow the axis and rotating. For smoother rotating, use ball bearings. The reading: or use camera (like I do, because we need that difference in height) or add some angle meter, which stays in place. But then you have to calculate the height from those angles.
Hi Igor I enjoy your channel and I think it's useful that you test filaments , however you may want to streamline some tests like the torsion test. I did notice that your test with eSun ABS+ looks very underextruded , I use that material and I found that it's very important to calibrate the flow because it tends to underextrude. Most of my filament flow are around 96% except for eSun ABS+ I has to set it to 105% to get the correct result. My guess is that if you retest the filament with the correct flow your results will change significantly.
Thanks Andre, my first print with ABS+ was really brittle with poor layer adhesion. Saw your comment and increased the extrusion rate by 10% and the next print was way stronger.
3DLAC its a spray for adhesion, its not expensive and its the strongest for all types of filament
Impressive test
I like the many tests, but Yes, your video is long,- but informative
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Thanks for another good video, but I have to say, eSun ABS+ and PC is probably some of the worst filaments I have ever used, they make a great PLA+ but their more advance stuff specially the PA-CF upwards are over priced and are just plain awful compared to competitor products, and I have printers with regulated chamber heating too, I would not waste $1 on their filaments above PLA+
I don't print ABS but I have heard from nero3d that before you open the enclosure, you want the enclosure to cool down so that the particles in the abs filament are no longer volatile. Once the particles have hardened and deposited on the walls of the enclosure it shouldn't be a health risk anymore. I haven't had the opportunity to test it with the particle sensor I have, I don't know if it can detect the harmful VOCs, I think you, with your scientific background can probably come up with a better answer than me.
Great video, really surprised for the ABS+ impact! Might be based on ABS HI10 or the MG94. For nylon Magigoo PA is really good. PA6 and PA6.6 based materials are some times easier to print (so surprised that eSun ePA was that difficult) than PA12 based blends. It sounds counter intuitive, but most nylons don't do well with high enclosure temperatures. Having an enclosure and a stable environment is good, but heat/energy is not always the answer. Warm air and a heated bed at a temperature that dries any glue stick or coating applied does not help nylon stick. A smooth garolite G10-FR4 print surface can be very good for nylons that warp. One more trick with materials like Polyamide or Polypropylene that don't stick to many print surfaces is to use large brims, overextrude for the first layer and create almost a suction cup surface as your first layer. After the first layer is good and "sucking" the print surface (like suction cups on glass), the interlayer adhesion of most nylons (as you have seen with this one as well) is so good that you will not have any issues. There are polyamides that are very modified to 3d print very easily! Usually the difficult polyamides are the blends that are used in other industries (sheets, films, foils, injection molding etc) and were made into filament without any modifications.
That's probably because nylon is semi-crystalline. PC and ABS are both amorphous, hence hotter usually = better. It's probably why ABS and PC perform fairly similarly in these tests, but nylon has wildly different results. Nylon often has a surprisingly low glass transition temperature.
Awesome info. Thorough and concise. 10/10
By any chance could you test the "stronger" carbon fiber filaments? CF Polycarbonate, CF polypropylene, CF ASA, and CF Nylon and maybe PCTG in its standard form as i do not believe there is a CF varient yet.
No one has a good video of scientific comparisons with these materials.
Subbed.
Polymaker will send me their whole line of Nylon filaments for testing (after I tested their Polylite and Polymax line)
Hi, are you still use esun abs+? are you experiencing layer adhesion on thin wall weaker than thick wall?
Thank you for the information
I heard that nylon likes glass better, or pei I think. Try the other side of the glas bed with glue stick. Thank you for great content!
I keep seeing PC is not great for Voron parts due to its inability to flex.
I think you should retest these filaments if you have an enclosed 3d printer with space heating. Especially for Nylon and PC, they will be much stronger.
Nice video and thanks for your efforts. Unfortunately all specimens have been cocked wrong. First thing you have to wait till the chamber cools down naturally. Which means parts have to be removed after some time. Your Ender setup is good for ABS only. To get proper printing of Nylon or PC it should be around 70C-80C inside the chamber to get full straight. Also Nylon gets full properties after too weeks when it exposed to moister funny yeah :) Answering to your question about Voron and PC isn’t good idea cause bearings contain oil which destroys PC parts. :)
@@AnnikaFPV ePC is not a pure PC otherwise it would have needed 300 degrees or mre, i've also heard you need 85-90 degrees in a chamber for abs, however i doubt that's feasible because even stepper motors are rated for 80 degrees, it also depends on what the temperature was around the parts themselves.
You printed the PC too cold. Whilst it is possible to print at lower temperatures for best strength it needs to be around 290 C if not over 300 C.
Nagyon kedvelem a videóidat, főleg az mechanikai tesztek de amúgy mindent, szóval nagyon jók.
Csak annyit a nylon anyagról hogy én ender3-as gépen (zárt) pritt stiftet használok, ezt már szintezés után kenem fel kb. 60 fokos asztalra (ablak üveg) és utána felfűtöm.
A cura szeletelőben raftot állítok be de a felső két simító réteget kihagyom mert az már nagyon húzza fölfelé, az airgap pedig 0.15mm 0.2 réteg vastagságnál. Eddig még minden lent maradt kunkorodás nélkül, bár nehéz a rafttól megszabadulni mert ez bizony össze heged nem úgy mint az asa-nál hogy szépen elválik.
Mondják hogy a Magigoo egy csoda de picit sokallom az árát de egyszer majd kipróbálom ha cserben hagy a tapadás.
Köszi az infót. zárt térben, kb mennyi volt a hőmérséklet?
@@MyTechFun Nem tudom, nem mértem. Nem lehetett több mint nálad mert én egy 8 centis ventivel a doboz tetején húzom ki a fölösleges meleg levegőt, a dobozom alján szellőző nyílások vannak hogy az alaplap kapjon hűtést.
A bed alatt mérem, ott max. 30-32 fok van.
Try Polymaker CoPA. You gotta print in on a cold bed (around 40°C) no warping at all :D
Lol its €69.95 for 750g...not ever worth it at that price.
49.99 USD on Amazon US. But it is still quite expensive.. I agree.
There are other no warping nylons for half the price that print nicely too, but the quality is not the same. You can tell a doubtful quality nylon by the smell when it's printing. The cheaper one smells like a mud swamp (because of the dirty water they cool it down into) and also by mechanical tests. Easy test for you to try: extrude certain length of CoPA in mid air and then pull the string apart. You'll notice it will stretch and stretch and just break when most of the strand has already been stretched. With the cheaper nylon just a small section of the strand will stretch before breaking. Temperature resistance of the cheaper nylon is also a bit lower.
Don't get me wrong.. the cheaper nylon is fine for most aplications, but for a nerd like me, Polymide CoPA is worth it :)
Thank you much!
What are your settings for epa
Did you use part cooling?
Thanks!
Thank you Ian!
Lol. The impact test was supposed to break ABS+, but ABS+ ended up breaking the impact test...
Please, do the same with Polypropylene (PP), begging u.
Probably. Which brand do you recommend?
How are you today Igor ?
As you can see, busy :-)
If you decide to do less tests in future, please continue the layer adhesion and creep tests; we can usually get specifications from manufacturers for other specifications, but not for creep and adhesion. Those two tests are very important! Thanks
Anything not even printing properly is completely out of question. It is useless for almost all purposes. I am mostly interested in printing properties and second to this the mechanical properties. All mechanical properties are of zero interest if it is difficult to print on a normal printer. I use enclosed and full metal hot end on like 300c is max for me. This means ASA/ABS will warp slightly. PC will warp significantly as well. PLA+ and PLA obviously does not warp. But I need slightly higher thermal properties. I kind of need a mix between PLA and ASA. Considered PETG but not done extensive testing.
Егор вы есть в телеграм?
No
That nylon needs drying
Please don't drop the tests!
I'm watching Igors videos and i don't even have a printer, don't plan on getting one, nor do i specifically care for 3d-printing :))
Don't drop tests.