I'm doing this job today and I cannot explain to you how thankful I am that you made this video. Thanks for your diligent documentation and straight forward instruction. Your work is sincerely appreciated!
Thanks a bunch for making this video! It made me realize the task at hand isn’t nearly as daunting as it seems. It’s nice to see folks creating content for the 2GS platform. I Did run into a couple issues and maybe this information can help others doing this. That metal bracket that goes to the bottom right stud of the BMC can be a massive pain in the butt if you accidentally bend it like I did. It really helps to have another person inside the car making sure the stud goes through the hole in the firewall and the bracket. It will save you a lot of headache trying to bend it back or take it out to fix it. I also received a faulty BMC from eBay. Popped it in and didn’t hear the motor building pressure at all along with a loud sustained beep. I also got all of my ABS and VSC lights on. Went to the pull-a-part today to grab another and everything went smoothly.
Best source of 2GS content on YT hands down. My GS400 is making this same noise and I have a booster unit on the way from an 01-05 so I'll be using this video as a reference. Awesome stuff man.
This video was a lifesaver and I just finished swapping my 98 GS400 to an SC430 MBC. Thank you for taking the time and sharing your experiences. All your videos are AWESOME!
Finally got the time to finish the video today, we had talked on FB earlier in the week. My unit gets here Friday and I'll take a day clean it up and get to work. Thanks for all the help again, I really miss driving my car over 20 mph on main roads LMAO.
Thanks for the awesome video! Just changed out my old "chirping" brake master cylinder with my friend yesterday on my SC430 and referenced your video for the whole repair. I am definitely a novice with auto repairs, but this was an easy job with two people. This would've cost me at least $3800 here in Hawaii. Instead, I paid $350 for the part on eBay and the next most expensive thing was a box of gloves for working with the brake fluid residue. Great step-by-step details! Thanks!
Just want to thank you. I have a 98 GS3, and the brake booster finally went. Because of your video I bought a 05 sc 430 unit. Added that with Supra TT front brakes and LS430 rear brakes and everything went flawlessly. Minus the fact, I disconnected the battery. But during installation I knocked the bumper off the lever for the brake switch. Hooked the battery back up and didn’t pay attention for 3 hours my brake lights were on 🤦🏻♂️😂 this is my third Gs in 14 years. Timeless vehicles.
I was going to do this exactly, but i havent due to i wasnt sure if the wheels needed to changed to a larger diameter for calipers, did you have to go to a larger wheel ?
Love the videos, I’m happy somebody is actually making videos about the gs400 and 430. And very good quality and explanation. I just rebuilt my power steering pump on my 98400
Dude...my bmc just crapped its pants on me in my sc400 yesterday in rush hour traffic. My gs 400 bmc did it this morning and your video popped up in my feed as I started searching. Thanks for the video. Seems the Gs will have an easier fix than the SC. Good to know that I can use newer 430 bmc on the GS!
Wow, this definitely is a job completely out of my league & ability. About 6 months ago I had my lexus dealer install a brand new Brake Master Cylinder, my old one was original. New part cost $3,200 just for the part + labor, full lexus warranty. By far most expensive thing I've ever done on my 98' gs400, but I've had my car 7 yrs., never any car payments, & stole it for just $2k because I worked at the dealership, still very happy! 😊
@@ForwardMomentum Labor charge cost $900 so total cost $4,200 It took the Lexus head technician 1.5 days to do complete work including the programming of new unit, I even met him & watched part of time at beginning & end of work also.
@@samaccurso I’m going to pin your comment at the top so people can see what the cost will be if they go to the dealer. My estimate was low apparently. 🤣
@@ForwardMomentum Thanks again, keep in mind & let all followers know my original unit lasted 23 yrs. & almost 200k miles, I'm actually happy & very impressed it lasted that long!
Yea great job you saved a lot of money I’ve had a used brake master cylinder for my 98 lexus for a year now I paid $200 for the part on eBay. And to have it put on I paid $200. And old unit needed to changed at 200k miles. Which wasn’t bad by far you did a great job in finding a part and installing it yourself..
@Scumlife Shotty no you good just gotta find someone who can put the part on. When you buy it used it’ll already be programmed. And the part just has to be coded by the mechanic. And you don’t have to do anything else..
To check the fluid level on this system you have to follow the depressurization sequence of pumping the brakes at least 25 times with the key off. Then you add fluid to the line. If you don't do this first, it will look like the reservoir is low because once the pump turns on and the system pressurizes, fluid is stored inro the accumulator. So if you fill it up with it pressurized and the vehicle sits a little while without turning the ignition on, the system will slowly depressurize and the fluid will move back to the reservoir and leak out around the cap and get all over everything. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive and a great paint remover.
Thanks for this video. This enabled me to do this myself. I was going to have to shell out $1200 in labor alone if I had the dealer do it. One bit of advice for anyone reading this... don't tighten up the assembly at the firewall until you have all the brake lines reattached. Having give in the assembly makes reattaching the brake lines much easier and you are less likely to run into crossthreading issues.... as me how I know. Thankfully I was able to salvage it with my brother in law and father in law to help. Thanks again.
Awesome! Great job. $1200 in labor is crazy. My dealer wanted $2300 4 years ago (I always call and ask to make myself feel better about doing the job). 😆
Hey, did you swap a newer unit into a 98-00 gs400 as well? Did you use the fittings/ brakelines from your old brake booster, or did you use the ones that came with the new unit? Thanks
Pulling in the house and my brake light came on and im getting a constant loud beep from the dash. Never had a problem, i was driving like 50 mph when it happened. Wth? Is the booster shot? Tapped the actuator with a wrench and it kicked on and is working flawlessly lol. 🤷 You're a godsend for this TY. You got a hell of a deal on that unit. Their up to like $450 now
That’s the low pressure alarm. It’s almost always the booster, unless you have a leak. Smacking the accumulator motor a bit could definitely buy you some time, but typically that beep and a pig squeal is the beginning of the end. I have seen a few pop up in the $200 range and there are plenty of wrecked SC’s out there too. Good luck with it! 👍
@@ForwardMomentumyep she's done brother. Stranded at the gas station the very next day. Got a like new one on ebay with a 13 month warranty. Towed to the shop cost me 1k total . It is what it is, I knew it would happen eventually and I knew exactly what it was when driving and that alarm went off. Pick it up Monday. I'm surprised it didn't happen earlier, owned it for 12 years at 166k miles. I love her and it was an easy decision to spend the money and fix her. Thanks for everything man. We're back!
Are u having or have u had the so called tone ring problem? The abs kicking it at 5mph and below? I'm stumped cause my tone rings look great and all the sensors are working but the rears are falling off at low speed stops.
This seems intertwined with your booster failure. How are you determining the sensors are good? You really have to use an advanced diagnostics scan tool to check.
Thanks again for making these videos. I was diagnosing a clunk, fixed it, went on a test drive and immediately it makes the sound. I planned on putting in a piggyback but that's not happening now.
I did this on my old Lexus gs300 01 but I just bought the full unit with motor and tank/sensors etc about 450 remand off eBay, not the worst job but wish I had this vid back then lol..nice job! Oh mine decided to go out on the freeway 😂luckily I was able to coast and downshift to a safe place, whacked the pump it pumped enough to get me home thank god😂🙏👍
Hey brother, always wondered what the hell that sound was lol. Now I know, and as usual, you've made an EXCELLENT VIDEO walking me through all the steps! You ROCK bro, thanks again n keep up the great work!
Amazing video the crazy thing is this video works for Land Cruisers and other Toyota or Lexus vehicles of this era with the same master brake cylinder!!!
I just bought a project gs300 2000. I’m so happy I found this video will so be swapping this unit in if eBay has one. Might be cheaper than the original one that was in there lol. Thank you so much man!!
I just changed my GS300 rear flexible brake lines this afternoon (wll be changing out the front calipers next sunny day we have here in England) - and this popped up to watch. Thanks - very informative.
This video is amazing and super informative thank you!! Unfortunately I am not skilled enough to attempt this on my own, and my independent mechanic just quoted me $2400 for a new BMC install 😭😭😭. He won’t put in a used SC430 BMC unfortunately.
this i just happened to me !!! i own a 03’ gs300 sport design and the brakes were basically nonexistent .. Brake light, abs and the warning buzzer came on , i hope this video helps me , wish me luck
My SC430 developed a leak at the BMC unit. The local garage could'nt repair it, so I supplied them with a replacement unit from e-bay. They then said it was no use, as the electronics didn't match my ECU? They used the electronic unit from my old unit, and placed it on the replacement unit? It worked, and there was no leaks, but pedal felt soft o me? I recently had it back at this garage for new front pads. Pedal feels softer, and the BMC appears to be leaking again! I think they didn't know what they were doing, and cocked it up! Your video explains a lot, rspecially the part about the ABS unit and the battery negative! Thanks for this!
That video was DOPE! Thanks for making it. I had questions about my diagnosis and they were answered right as I thought of them (Great timing and pace). The demo at the end was spot on and appreciated. I was wondering if it was possible to bench bleed the master before reinstalling or would it be a wasted step? Would bench bleeding eliminate having to do it at the fragile brake lines in the car?
Thank you for your positive feedback! Bench bleeding was something I looked into, but could not get a straight answer on at all. The consensus was to break the hardlines on the BMC open after it primed (which I believe I showed in the video). Due to the design of the pump, and it being electric, there wasn’t a great way to compress the cylinder like on a traditional BMC. So I chose to do a little bench bleed on the car. If it was a new Toyota BMC, I would look into it further. I hope that helps!
i have a JDM aristo and i just put LS460 calipers and rotors on. i bled the system with a pressure bleeder and it seemed fine, but the pedal goes to the floor when the car turns off. i did not turn the key on at any point. i am going to redo it this way and hopefully that will fix things... because the brakes are incredible when the pedal is there.
Hey so I have an ABS, VSC & VSC OFF light on my dashboard. The 3 codes i got back were C1246(Malfunction in master cylinder pressure sensor), C1251(Pump motor is locked/open circuit) & C1223(Malfunction in ABS system). Have you heard of these codes popping up before? Your motor mount video helped me a ton thank youz
Yes. Check the entire system for obvious issues, such as a leak. If nothing is found the pressure sensor is faulty (unlikely) or the HBBA/BMC went out (most likely).
@@ForwardMomentum What do u mean by the HBBA? I will look for leaks tomorrow however the 3 little wires that the pressure sensor has have been spliced with some butt connector i’m not sure why (previous owner). do u think if a wire isn’t getting power it would cause the sensor to act up? My brake pedal sinks a little bit to the ground as well (already bled all my calipers).
Hydraulic Brake Booster Assembly. Sure, bad wiring could cause it but if your pedal sinks to the floor, it’s probably toast (unless you have a leak or air in the lines).
Awesome video! My GS300 just started making the R2D2 sound 🙂 My question is: would the unit from SC 430 from 2002-2010 fit? Much appreciated the answer, especially the last comment was 2 years ago.
The SC430 unit is what I installed. I’m not sure if there was a mid-model unit cutover or not, but you could check by going to www.toyodiy.com/ and messing around with SC430 years and seeing if the unit’s P/Ns match or not.
I ended up upgrading and making a brand new one by buying parts individually. Here is another way around this issue. Buy a rebuilt master cylinder at rockauto, then buy a rebuild upgraded abs motor from ebay and a new nitrogen tank from the dealer since I heard those lose pressure over time, didn't want to risk dropping in another master cylinder was a bad nitrogen tank. I am actually on the second master cylinder on a 215k mile GS400. I think I dropped about $1500 in after I was done, but everything is new. I did buy another donor master cylinder off ebay so I could piece it together off the car.
Off. It may have been confusing because for the ECU reset you pull the NEG battery cable to do so (but mine was already pulled). The key here is 40X ignition OFF.
It’s the accumulator motor case, commutator and brushes. Corrosion and direct contact of parts causes the noise. (I dissected the unit weeks after I shot the video).
I had to do this twice and its not the easiest job, the 4 bolts under the dash are a struggle to get to. I think I may have to take it out again as there is a leak somewhere coming from underneath but its hard to see where from, it slowly loses fluid. If you can get the latest version as its been uprated.
Did you notice if the abs motor was running much more frequently before you replaced it? Lexus hybrid RX400h uses the same system (as do many hybrids and gx/4runner, lx, etc) and mine has not triggered any lights, but it's running all the time (much more than any of my other cars with the system) as if pressure is leaking off somewhat quickly. I'm wondering if the brake assembly or accumulator is going bad on mine. If you noticed a change in the frequency of the pump running, that would be great to know. Thanks in advance.
Yes, I did notice more frequent activations, but duration of each run wasn’t excessive. For my BMC, it was the screeching that was a sign it was failing. I dissected my BMC assembly after filming and found the accumulator motor brushes and commutator directly contacting the shell and shaft, not to mention there was corrosion everywhere as well. I hope that helps.
i replace mine( only reconditioned pump), done bleeding( no air anymore), noise still coming until i start drive. but brake warning light is appear each time I'm braking, disappear when i accelerating(speed, abs sensor?), after few mines again appear brake, vsc, vsc off, abs lights, few more miles away- disappear. its not first time i replacing BMC(done it 4 years ago without any prob.) don't know where is the problem right now(maybe ACCUMULATOR ASSY without gas?)
Another awesome vid. Was the BMC you got rebuilt or used? If its used, I'm guessing anyone would have to look for one from a vehicle with low mileage. Last, did you come up with those brake pumping #'s at random (40, 20) or did you read that from some source?
I know this is old thread I actually offered you my old caster arm couple weeks ago but I'm in so Cal and was wondering if you know of someone who rebuilds theses units besides eBay thanks and hope to hear back
New subscriber to your channel, and love the content & high quality production values. What made you decide to use an SC430 complete assembly, vs. say a refresh 2GS (01-05) BMC? It also has the triangular pressure switch that you pointed out needing to be swapped over. I would think SC430 units are more scarce than the GS units.
Hi - thanks for the sub! Research indicates the BMC bore may be 1/8th larger, although I have yet to confirm. Additionally, SC’s tend to carry lower mileage generally speaking and the BMC can be had fairly new in comparison to many of the 2GS models which are getting snatched up by younger folks and often thrashed. I hate these HBBA/BMC units. They’re entirely too complex, noisy and seem to have a limited lifespan. I would love to eliminate it entirely with an Avalon or Heat Lightning simplistic unit, but I want to retain ABS.
Great video brother. Just wanted to ask if you remembered the part where the pin slides in with the brake pedal (called clevis) was pivoting loose from its socket joint. I checked out a used part and wasn’t sure if it was supposed to pivot/rotate easily like it was. The clevis is connected to the piston and the boot end. Thank you!
Ive read where this is the same procedure for 100 Series Landcruisers and LX470's. Is that true? Thanks for this very informative video. The install on my LC isnt the issue, its the bleeding process that makes me nervous!
Yes, it should be very similar. For some reason TOYOTA went with these complex and expensive BMC units that are prone to failure. I still don’t understand why.
@@ForwardMomentum Toyota seems to love going overboard to a fault on a few components. Just to change a rotor on my vehicle, I have to disassemble the entire hub assembly haha. You the man, thank you!
Hey man, I'm also swapping a sc430 brake booster into my 98 gs400. I had a question, did you use the brake lines and fittings(the ones that screw into the booster) from the old booster or did you have to swap over the ones from the new booster. Some people online say that the old fittings don't screw in all the way. Thanks
The video shows everything I did. I didn’t do anything behind the scenes like that. The ONLY thing that needs to be swapped is the pressure sensor. If people are struggling with engagement, then they probably cross threaded a fitting.
The replacement pump is bad, there’s air in the lines still, the bleed procedure isn’t being followed properly. Check over all obvious things such as the pressure sensor was swapped, is hooked up, etc. Carefully go over all lines and make sure there are no leaks. Work your way down the process from there.
I’m having some problems with my is250, I’m not sure if they side to side bleeding process matters on my application but I did the standard furthest valve procedure, not sure if that’s what’s causing my soft brake pedal, I don’t see any leaks and my master cylinders looks dry. Do you have some clue to help me ?
Anyway u can help I've bought 2 master cyclinder did it the exact same way but once I get to step put car only to the on position I don't here the pump working
great video,followed all you steps, but after pumping the brake 20 times with the ignition on the warning buzzer didn't go off,I"am on my second unit from EBAY I"ve become quite the expert of taking the brake booster out did it 4 times already,I finally brought a remanufactured pump, both pumps were shot, going to have my neighbor help me bleed it tomorrow,any extra steps or knowledge if after pumping the brakes 20 times and the buzzer doesn't go off, thank you
Sorry to hear this. I hate these BMC’s. I don’t know anything else besides what I shared. That warning alarm should turn off once the system pressurizes after the motor runs and fluid is topped off. If it stays on the pressure sensor is doing it’s job and there’s a deeper issue. It is peculiar that it has been two pumps bad in a row for you. Possible? Yes. But it makes me wonder if your method is causing an issue. Make sure you’re putting a block under the pedal during pumping. If you over-stroke it it can blow out the internal seal.
I’ve bled twice already and no air and still have a spongy pedal. But I haven’t tried the 40 20 method. What exactly does the 40 20 method do and is there a more detailed way for it to be sure it’s working? It feels like air because I have a strong pedal after two or three pumps while driving . Soft under the first depress
hello, first of all thank you for this great video ! I currently have a 1997 aristo and I need to change this part. however I understand that the brake master cylinder of the GS300 can go on ARISTO. do you have the information on that ? thanks
I believe they change over, but please double-check me. The problem in the USA when using an Aristo BMC is usually with the hardline routing (RHD vs LHD). Not sure if that is a factor in your case or not.
Short answer: yes, always. If you open a closed system that operates under pressure, it’s typically always required to bleed it. The problem is that if it’s not bled, air bubbles can get pushed to key components, like calipers, and failure to operate properly can result.
I got my new unit in and my brakes feel better and it doesn’t have the light on anymore for the brake and makes the noise. But my ABS and VSC lights are still on will they turn off on their own or do I do something to get the system back on?
Added to my saved videos for future reference! :) I was wondering though, whenever I changed my brakes, the fluid levels would rise whenever the car was parked, then it would go down a little whenever I’m driving it. Is that normal or did I not bleed it properly?
Hey man, really detailed video was wondering if the process is similar for a first gen is300. If I brake relatively hard, nearing the bottom, pedal kinda flutters.
Hey, pretty cool video! I have a question about the "optional bleeding the BMC before the formal bleeding process", Did you have the ignition on when you do this? What is the timing for re-tighten the brake line connector after lossen it? (until see some fluid come out?) Thanks!
You want to make sure the system is depressurized before loosening any lines. This system stores around 2800 psi of pressurized brake fluid even if it has sat overnight. To depressurize, pump the brakes at least 25 times with the battery disconnected or at least have the ignition switch turned off. I would just disco the battery that way you don't have to worry about the brake lights or shorting something out, etc. Problematic system since the 80s on everything from BMW and Mercedes to Pontiac and Ford. Can't believe manufacturers continued to use this style of braking system into the 2000s. The domestic manufacturers ditched this style back in the early 90s and made the ABS actuator/pump assembly separate from the base power brake system. To rely on an electric pump to develop fluid pressure for power braking instead of a vacuum booster. Not to mention when the pump fails, you lose rear brakes altogether. If the pump has failed, there should be no pressure in the system. Something that you want to do on these Teves type systems is listen to how often the pump has to turn on. It should only run every 2 or 3 normal stops. ABS stops are different and the pump will run continuously during a panic stop. If you notice the pump turning on every time you press the brake or you see the ABS and brake warning lights staying on for a while after you park it for a short time, then you want to replace the accumulator. The accumulator is around $200 from Toyota, maybe more now, its been a while since I bought one. No bleeding is necessary for this service. But definitely depressurize the system prior to removing it.
Thanks for the video. I have a question when you bleed the unit, did any brake fluid or air come out of the side two brake lines facing the passenger side? The front two facing the bumper did for me but not the side ones.
Honestly that is just a major “push bleed” to get it ready. Actual bleeding clears air out. I wouldn’t gauge BMC success on fluid vs no fluid there. I hope that helps!
I have the same issue with the bird chirping noise, every 15-30 seconds, it is getting to be more frequent and louder. Is it possible to replace some parts on the system ,hydraulic braking assembly, or it is one complete unit? 2002 GS300, 216k miles, i cannot afford 4k, i really like this vehicle
It is possible, yes. But upon investigation a BMC swap was much more economical. The problem is the accumulator motor commutators disintegrating (we think). So, theoretically, one could replace that motor if it can be found. I started down that road and no one had a solution so I just did the swap.
Thank you for posting this, your videos are always so informative. My 1999 gs300 is making bird like sounds at cold start up. My brake pedal pressure still feels normal and I don’t see any leaks on the garage floor/reservoir is still full. I have a video on my channel of the noise it makes and someone chimed in and said it’s my brake booster. I occasionally get the brake light icon on my dash but no constant beep sound.
Hello, do you have this buzzing sound evertime you turn on car? After I changed pump I have this sound evertime I turn on vehicle, and sometimes when Im using brakes? But still it's much better than It was earlier like in ur case.
I have a 2002 4Runner with an all in one ABS unit. Long story short, when I got to the last procedure where you pumped the brake pedal 20 times. The pressure warning did not go off and my brake pedal feels spongy for some unknown reason. Mind you I have not done the last part of bleeding all 4 brakes. Do you think bleeding the brakes will fix it?
Did you swap the pressure sensor from your bad BMC to your new one? Just curious. If so, definitely repeat the steps a few times. If the warning persists, try to bleed the brakes. If it still persists, try pulling the negative to reset the ABS ECU. If it still persists, you could have a bad unit going in.
Thank you for making this vid man! I’ve been watching most of your vids recently. I got a 1997 aristo and I was just wondering if it would be the same for the aristo? If not would you know what is compatible?
If you have a BMC/booster, it should be similar. However, I don’t know for sure if the exact parts and process is the same. Sorry! Thanks for watching!
Follow the FSM low-idle troubleshooting steps. It could be a number of things so guessing and throwing parts at it would be unfair to you. Start with the easy stuff, like post-MAF vac leaks.
@@ForwardMomentum Tank yo very much for you answer and your advice. I will try it. Because that really annoying,and no one can finde what is issue is. I've change MAF sensor,after VVTI valve, throttle was cleaning as well.
Hi, My MC is not making these noise but i has leaking a little bit. Should I replace the whole thing or are there components of the MC that can be replaced to fix the leak? Thanks, LL
Good morning, well, I replaced the BMC with a 430 BMC and unfortunately it didn't eliminate the problem. The unit I installed was supposed to be out of a low mileage 430 GS. In your video you recorded a buzzing noise coming from the BMC when you depressed the brake pedal. When I apply the brakes, I hear a similar noise along with a pulsating brake pedal (there are no dash lights on) before the car comes to a complete stop, it's as though the ABS kicks in right before the car stops, did you experience that as well? Do you know of a company that sells remanufactured BMC for early model GS's? The BMC I purchased come s with a 30-day warranty so I will be it returning it. Any additional Information would be appreciated, thanks.
No, I did not experience that exact issue. Yes, it did/does “buzz” when the accumulator motor kicks on, but never premature ABS initiation as you described. Make sure it’s 100% bled properly and then consider returning it.
hey man, im having issues with my brake master cylinder for (1998 gs300) and i was wondering i heard rumors of the brake master cylinder being the same one for a 1998 to 2003 land cruiser. i just wanted to ask if you know anything about that.
I explained it in the video, but maybe you missed it? Generally the 430 boosters will be newer, have less miles, and there’s a rumor the bore is slightly larger. The first two reasons are why I did it, but I have a 400, which stopped production in 2000.
Hello mate.I have a gs430 and the brake master cylinder soon will be gone. Locally i can find anything from left hand drive gs to buy this part. Luckily there are 2 sc430 lhd for parts in my country and both of them have this part.Can you confirm that it will fit?You mentioned that the sc brake master cylinder is bigger. Will it fit without issues? Thanks for your reply :)
Does any sound from the system mean, it’s going bad? My brakes are hard at times and normal at others. But it always makes light sound when I apply the brakes. Just got the car 00’ gs300, just trying to understand
Distant buzzing is ok. That is the accumulator motor operating. I noticed that the buzzing gets louder over time, then the screeching will start. The screeching is the accumulator motor commutator coming apart and grinding the debris in there. Nice huh? All that being said, you may want to perform a bleed to see if that alleviates your random pedal firmness.
Do you know what the issue on my 98 GS300 is? Basically it sometimes just does not start, the roadside assistance person said something wrong with the fuel. The pump was replaced only 2 months ago. This morning it started but yesterday it didnt
Oh, ha ha! Yeah, I just left it there for the entire bleeding process, including the BMC and all calipers. Just didn’t want to risk over-stroking the cylinder.
I can’t seem to figure out what to replace on my gs400 when stopping the pedal feels semi normal until around 3-1 mph and the pedal goes firm and it makes a buzzing noise , and it ends up breaking but like if my car is sliding, sorry my explanation is horrible
I have a 1999 GS 400. I replaced the brake master cylinder about 5 years ago and now the replacement is failing. My question is do you think the 430 BMC is a better unit for that car?
Better because the piston bore size is slightly larger (I’m told) and because they’re usually newer and typically from a car that didn’t get thrashed…that’s why I like them.
@@ForwardMomentum Thanks for your response, I appreciate that information. I was thinking along the same lines as the 430 master cylinder maybe newer than the one for the 400 or 300, thanks again
I'm doing this job today and I cannot explain to you how thankful I am that you made this video. Thanks for your diligent documentation and straight forward instruction. Your work is sincerely appreciated!
Awesome! This made my day! 😎
You f***ing lifesaver, thanks for all your videos man its loving that someone out there still makes videos for these old boats
Thanks a bunch for making this video! It made me realize the task at hand isn’t nearly as daunting as it seems. It’s nice to see folks creating content for the 2GS platform. I Did run into a couple issues and maybe this information can help others doing this. That metal bracket that goes to the bottom right stud of the BMC can be a massive pain in the butt if you accidentally bend it like I did. It really helps to have another person inside the car making sure the stud goes through the hole in the firewall and the bracket. It will save you a lot of headache trying to bend it back or take it out to fix it. I also received a faulty BMC from eBay. Popped it in and didn’t hear the motor building pressure at all along with a loud sustained beep. I also got all of my ABS and VSC lights on. Went to the pull-a-part today to grab another and everything went smoothly.
Best source of 2GS content on YT hands down. My GS400 is making this same noise and I have a booster unit on the way from an 01-05 so I'll be using this video as a reference. Awesome stuff man.
This video was a lifesaver and I just finished swapping my 98 GS400 to an SC430 MBC. Thank you for taking the time and sharing your experiences. All your videos are AWESOME!
Finally got the time to finish the video today, we had talked on FB earlier in the week. My unit gets here Friday and I'll take a day clean it up and get to work. Thanks for all the help again, I really miss driving my car over 20 mph on main roads LMAO.
Thanks for the awesome video! Just changed out my old "chirping" brake master cylinder with my friend yesterday on my SC430 and referenced your video for the whole repair. I am definitely a novice with auto repairs, but this was an easy job with two people. This would've cost me at least $3800 here in Hawaii. Instead, I paid $350 for the part on eBay and the next most expensive thing was a box of gloves for working with the brake fluid residue. Great step-by-step details! Thanks!
Best GS channel hands down!!! Can’t wait to tackle this
You’ve got this!
Bro, I’m glad you dropped this. I was just starting to have issues with my braking. 💯
Just want to thank you. I have a 98 GS3, and the brake booster finally went. Because of your video I bought a 05 sc 430 unit. Added that with Supra TT front brakes and LS430 rear brakes and everything went flawlessly. Minus the fact, I disconnected the battery. But during installation I knocked the bumper off the lever for the brake switch. Hooked the battery back up and didn’t pay attention for 3 hours my brake lights were on 🤦🏻♂️😂 this is my third Gs in 14 years. Timeless vehicles.
I was going to do this exactly, but i havent due to i wasnt sure if the wheels needed to changed to a larger diameter for calipers, did you have to go to a larger wheel ?
Love the videos, I’m happy somebody is actually making videos about the gs400 and 430. And very good quality and explanation. I just rebuilt my power steering pump on my 98400
Sounds like I need to pick your brain as well. My power steering is leaking. Need to be pointed in the right direction.
@@jackhammr1751 is it the pump or the rack
@@burntxtoastt it's the pump.
@@jackhammr1751 well I’m not sure exactly inside where it’s leaking but I bought a rebuilt kit online for like $10.
Men! You're jzs160/jzs161 God! I need this setup with LS400 calipers in my Jzs161. Keep rolling! Big thanks from Poland
Dude...my bmc just crapped its pants on me in my sc400 yesterday in rush hour traffic. My gs 400 bmc did it this morning and your video popped up in my feed as I started searching. Thanks for the video. Seems the Gs will have an easier fix than the SC. Good to know that I can use newer 430 bmc on the GS!
Wow, this definitely is a job completely out of my league & ability. About 6 months ago I had my lexus dealer install a brand new Brake Master Cylinder, my old one was original. New part cost $3,200 just for the part + labor, full lexus warranty. By far most expensive thing I've ever done on my 98' gs400, but I've had my car 7 yrs., never any car payments, & stole it for just $2k because I worked at the dealership, still very happy! 😊
Wow! So if you don’t mind me asking, how much was it with labor? That’s crazy!
@@ForwardMomentum
Labor charge cost $900 so total cost $4,200
It took the Lexus head technician 1.5 days to do complete work including the programming of new unit, I even met him & watched part of time at beginning & end of work also.
@@samaccurso I’m going to pin your comment at the top so people can see what the cost will be if they go to the dealer. My estimate was low apparently. 🤣
@@ForwardMomentum
Thanks again, keep in mind & let all followers know my original unit lasted 23 yrs. & almost 200k miles, I'm actually happy & very impressed it lasted that long!
@@samaccurso I respect people as reasonable as you are
Yea great job you saved a lot of money I’ve had a used brake master cylinder for my 98 lexus for a year now I paid $200 for the part on eBay. And to have it put on I paid $200. And old unit needed to changed at 200k miles. Which wasn’t bad by far you did a great job in finding a part and installing it yourself..
@Scumlife Shotty no you good just gotta find someone who can put the part on. When you buy it used it’ll already be programmed. And the part just has to be coded by the mechanic. And you don’t have to do anything else..
Always with the detail, awesome man. Mine had the same issue.
To check the fluid level on this system you have to follow the depressurization sequence of pumping the brakes at least 25 times with the key off. Then you add fluid to the line. If you don't do this first, it will look like the reservoir is low because once the pump turns on and the system pressurizes, fluid is stored inro the accumulator. So if you fill it up with it pressurized and the vehicle sits a little while without turning the ignition on, the system will slowly depressurize and the fluid will move back to the reservoir and leak out around the cap and get all over everything. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive and a great paint remover.
Thanks for this video. This enabled me to do this myself. I was going to have to shell out $1200 in labor alone if I had the dealer do it. One bit of advice for anyone reading this... don't tighten up the assembly at the firewall until you have all the brake lines reattached. Having give in the assembly makes reattaching the brake lines much easier and you are less likely to run into crossthreading issues.... as me how I know. Thankfully I was able to salvage it with my brother in law and father in law to help. Thanks again.
Awesome! Great job. $1200 in labor is crazy. My dealer wanted $2300 4 years ago (I always call and ask to make myself feel better about doing the job). 😆
Hey, did you swap a newer unit into a 98-00 gs400 as well? Did you use the fittings/ brakelines from your old brake booster, or did you use the ones that came with the new unit? Thanks
Life saver bro! Rear brakes weren’t bleeding. Turns out the ignition needs to be on. Cheers bro !
Pulling in the house and my brake light came on and im getting a constant loud beep from the dash. Never had a problem, i was driving like 50 mph when it happened. Wth? Is the booster shot? Tapped the actuator with a wrench and it kicked on and is working flawlessly lol. 🤷 You're a godsend for this TY. You got a hell of a deal on that unit. Their up to like $450 now
That’s the low pressure alarm. It’s almost always the booster, unless you have a leak. Smacking the accumulator motor a bit could definitely buy you some time, but typically that beep and a pig squeal is the beginning of the end. I have seen a few pop up in the $200 range and there are plenty of wrecked SC’s out there too. Good luck with it! 👍
@@ForwardMomentumyep she's done brother. Stranded at the gas station the very next day. Got a like new one on ebay with a 13 month warranty. Towed to the shop cost me 1k total . It is what it is, I knew it would happen eventually and I knew exactly what it was when driving and that alarm went off. Pick it up Monday. I'm surprised it didn't happen earlier, owned it for 12 years at 166k miles. I love her and it was an easy decision to spend the money and fix her. Thanks for everything man. We're back!
Are u having or have u had the so called tone ring problem? The abs kicking it at 5mph and below? I'm stumped cause my tone rings look great and all the sensors are working but the rears are falling off at low speed stops.
This seems intertwined with your booster failure. How are you determining the sensors are good? You really have to use an advanced diagnostics scan tool to check.
Thanks again for making these videos. I was diagnosing a clunk, fixed it, went on a test drive and immediately it makes the sound. I planned on putting in a piggyback but that's not happening now.
I did this on my old Lexus gs300 01 but I just bought the full unit with motor and tank/sensors etc about 450 remand off eBay, not the worst job but wish I had this vid back then lol..nice job! Oh mine decided to go out on the freeway 😂luckily I was able to coast and downshift to a safe place, whacked the pump it pumped enough to get me home thank god😂🙏👍
Does your pedal feel stiff as an original one?
@@RSGAEL yes it’s literally exactly the same, well I also did the stop tech drilled and slotted rotors and that made a lot of difference surprisingly
Just did my ABS, followed these instructions and I can ride in peace again. ✌️
Hey brother, always wondered what the hell that sound was lol. Now I know, and as usual, you've made an EXCELLENT VIDEO walking me through all the steps! You ROCK bro, thanks again n keep up the great work!
EXCELLENT Video!! When mine fails I'll def be referencing this. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Amazing video the crazy thing is this video works for Land Cruisers and other Toyota or Lexus vehicles of this era with the same master brake cylinder!!!
I just bought a project gs300 2000. I’m so happy I found this video will so be swapping this unit in if eBay has one. Might be cheaper than the original one that was in there lol. Thank you so much man!!
I just changed my GS300 rear flexible brake lines this afternoon (wll be changing out the front calipers next sunny day we have here in England) - and this popped up to watch. Thanks - very informative.
This video is amazing and super informative thank you!! Unfortunately I am not skilled enough to attempt this on my own, and my independent mechanic just quoted me $2400 for a new BMC install 😭😭😭. He won’t put in a used SC430 BMC unfortunately.
Ugh! That’s a lot of $. I understand the job isn’t for everyone though. I hope your car gets fixed soon!
Your video helped me out a ton. Just did mine today and brakes are working amazing now
Awesome, very informative video!
this i just happened to me !!!
i own a 03’ gs300 sport design and the brakes were basically nonexistent ..
Brake light, abs and the warning buzzer came on , i hope this video helps me , wish me luck
My SC430 developed a leak at the BMC unit. The local garage could'nt repair it, so I supplied them with a replacement unit from e-bay. They then said it was no use, as the electronics didn't match my ECU? They used the electronic unit from my old unit, and placed it on the replacement unit? It worked, and there was no leaks, but pedal felt soft o me? I recently had it back at this garage for new front pads. Pedal feels softer, and the BMC appears to be leaking again! I think they didn't know what they were doing, and cocked it up! Your video explains a lot, rspecially the part about the ABS unit and the battery negative! Thanks for this!
I fear the day I will have to replace this thing.... came here for the bleeding.. but great job, great video... peace
That video was DOPE! Thanks for making it. I had questions about my diagnosis and they were answered right as I thought of them (Great timing and pace). The demo at the end was spot on and appreciated. I was wondering if it was possible to bench bleed the master before reinstalling or would it be a wasted step? Would bench bleeding eliminate having to do it at the fragile brake lines in the car?
Thank you for your positive feedback! Bench bleeding was something I looked into, but could not get a straight answer on at all. The consensus was to break the hardlines on the BMC open after it primed (which I believe I showed in the video). Due to the design of the pump, and it being electric, there wasn’t a great way to compress the cylinder like on a traditional BMC. So I chose to do a little bench bleed on the car. If it was a new Toyota BMC, I would look into it further. I hope that helps!
It does. Thanks for answering so quickly.
i have a JDM aristo and i just put LS460 calipers and rotors on. i bled the system with a pressure bleeder and it seemed fine, but the pedal goes to the floor when the car turns off. i did not turn the key on at any point. i am going to redo it this way and hopefully that will fix things... because the brakes are incredible when the pedal is there.
Good plan. Report back and let us know if re-bleed fixes it. 👍
Thks for the tip I ways trying to figure what that sound was.
Hey so I have an ABS, VSC & VSC OFF light on my dashboard. The 3 codes i got back were C1246(Malfunction in master cylinder pressure sensor), C1251(Pump motor is locked/open circuit) & C1223(Malfunction in ABS system). Have you heard of these codes popping up before? Your motor mount video helped me a ton thank youz
Yes. Check the entire system for obvious issues, such as a leak. If nothing is found the pressure sensor is faulty (unlikely) or the HBBA/BMC went out (most likely).
@@ForwardMomentum What do u mean by the HBBA? I will look for leaks tomorrow however the 3 little wires that the pressure sensor has have been spliced with some butt connector i’m not sure why (previous owner). do u think if a wire isn’t getting power it would cause the sensor to act up? My brake pedal sinks a little bit to the ground as well (already bled all my calipers).
Hydraulic Brake Booster Assembly. Sure, bad wiring could cause it but if your pedal sinks to the floor, it’s probably toast (unless you have a leak or air in the lines).
Awesome video!
My GS300 just started making the R2D2 sound 🙂
My question is: would the unit from SC 430 from 2002-2010 fit?
Much appreciated the answer, especially the last comment was 2 years ago.
The SC430 unit is what I installed. I’m not sure if there was a mid-model unit cutover or not, but you could check by going to www.toyodiy.com/ and messing around with SC430 years and seeing if the unit’s P/Ns match or not.
@@ForwardMomentum Thank you for lightning fast response and great suggestions!
I ended up upgrading and making a brand new one by buying parts individually. Here is another way around this issue. Buy a rebuilt master cylinder at rockauto, then buy a rebuild upgraded abs motor from ebay and a new nitrogen tank from the dealer since I heard those lose pressure over time, didn't want to risk dropping in another master cylinder was a bad nitrogen tank. I am actually on the second master cylinder on a 215k mile GS400. I think I dropped about $1500 in after I was done, but everything is new. I did buy another donor master cylinder off ebay so I could piece it together off the car.
Great idea! Thank you!
10:55 do you pump 40 times with the ignition off and battery pulled or does it not mater bc it confuse me how you said it.
Off. It may have been confusing because for the ECU reset you pull the NEG battery cable to do so (but mine was already pulled). The key here is 40X ignition OFF.
So where is the chirp coming from exactly? The hydroboost pump assembly? Or the master itself? Does anyone know?
It’s the accumulator motor case, commutator and brushes. Corrosion and direct contact of parts causes the noise. (I dissected the unit weeks after I shot the video).
I had to do this twice and its not the easiest job, the 4 bolts under the dash are a struggle to get to. I think I may have to take it out again as there is a leak somewhere coming from underneath but its hard to see where from, it slowly loses fluid. If you can get the latest version as its been uprated.
I've been trying to track down this noise for a year. Thought it was in the steering shaft.
Great contents
Did you notice if the abs motor was running much more frequently before you replaced it? Lexus hybrid RX400h uses the same system (as do many hybrids and gx/4runner, lx, etc) and mine has not triggered any lights, but it's running all the time (much more than any of my other cars with the system) as if pressure is leaking off somewhat quickly. I'm wondering if the brake assembly or accumulator is going bad on mine.
If you noticed a change in the frequency of the pump running, that would be great to know. Thanks in advance.
Yes, I did notice more frequent activations, but duration of each run wasn’t excessive. For my BMC, it was the screeching that was a sign it was failing. I dissected my BMC assembly after filming and found the accumulator motor brushes and commutator directly contacting the shell and shaft, not to mention there was corrosion everywhere as well. I hope that helps.
i replace mine( only reconditioned pump), done bleeding( no air anymore), noise still coming until i start drive. but brake warning light is appear each time I'm braking, disappear when i accelerating(speed, abs sensor?), after few mines again appear brake, vsc, vsc off, abs lights, few more miles away- disappear. its not first time i replacing BMC(done it 4 years ago without any prob.) don't know where is the problem right now(maybe ACCUMULATOR ASSY without gas?)
Hmmm... what did you make the rear mud flaps out of? 👀
Universal NAPA flaps if I remember right. I have them for around 8 yrs. No link, sorry.
@@ForwardMomentum no worries... looks pretty clean.
Another awesome vid. Was the BMC you got rebuilt or used? If its used, I'm guessing anyone would have to look for one from a vehicle with low mileage. Last, did you come up with those brake pumping #'s at random (40, 20) or did you read that from some source?
Thx! BMC was used. Pumping was random until bubbles cleared visually. 😎
I know this is old thread I actually offered you my old caster arm couple weeks ago but I'm in so Cal and was wondering if you know of someone who rebuilds theses units besides eBay thanks and hope to hear back
Hey - I’m sorry, I am not aware of anyone. Seems like a good business opportunity!
New subscriber to your channel, and love the content & high quality production values.
What made you decide to use an SC430 complete assembly, vs. say a refresh 2GS (01-05) BMC? It also has the triangular pressure switch that you pointed out needing to be swapped over. I would think SC430 units are more scarce than the GS units.
Hi - thanks for the sub! Research indicates the BMC bore may be 1/8th larger, although I have yet to confirm. Additionally, SC’s tend to carry lower mileage generally speaking and the BMC can be had fairly new in comparison to many of the 2GS models which are getting snatched up by younger folks and often thrashed. I hate these HBBA/BMC units. They’re entirely too complex, noisy and seem to have a limited lifespan. I would love to eliminate it entirely with an Avalon or Heat Lightning simplistic unit, but I want to retain ABS.
Anyone know how to change the master brake cylinder on a 2001 Lexus LS 430? please post video.
Great video brother. Just wanted to ask if you remembered the part where the pin slides in with the brake pedal (called clevis) was pivoting loose from its socket joint. I checked out a used part and wasn’t sure if it was supposed to pivot/rotate easily like it was. The clevis is connected to the piston and the boot end. Thank you!
Thanks! Yes, it was loose there. 👍
Ive read where this is the same procedure for 100 Series Landcruisers and LX470's. Is that true? Thanks for this very informative video. The install on my LC isnt the issue, its the bleeding process that makes me nervous!
Yes, it should be very similar. For some reason TOYOTA went with these complex and expensive BMC units that are prone to failure. I still don’t understand why.
@@ForwardMomentum Toyota seems to love going overboard to a fault on a few components. Just to change a rotor on my vehicle, I have to disassemble the entire hub assembly haha. You the man, thank you!
Hey man, I'm also swapping a sc430 brake booster into my 98 gs400. I had a question, did you use the brake lines and fittings(the ones that screw into the booster) from the old booster or did you have to swap over the ones from the new booster. Some people online say that the old fittings don't screw in all the way. Thanks
The video shows everything I did. I didn’t do anything behind the scenes like that. The ONLY thing that needs to be swapped is the pressure sensor. If people are struggling with engagement, then they probably cross threaded a fitting.
Very detailed. Great job.
So what if I do every step but the beeping doesnt go away. Pump is running and the bleeding isn't going as planned
The replacement pump is bad, there’s air in the lines still, the bleed procedure isn’t being followed properly. Check over all obvious things such as the pressure sensor was swapped, is hooked up, etc. Carefully go over all lines and make sure there are no leaks. Work your way down the process from there.
Awesome video wish you were my mechanic
I’m having some problems with my is250, I’m not sure if they side to side bleeding process matters on my application but I did the standard furthest valve procedure, not sure if that’s what’s causing my soft brake pedal, I don’t see any leaks and my master cylinders looks dry. Do you have some clue to help me ?
I’m not sure on the 250 either. Best bet is to download the service manual using a day pass from Toyota Information Services and do it per the manual.
Anyway u can help I've bought 2 master cyclinder did it the exact same way but once I get to step put car only to the on position I don't here the pump working
Now I have 3 BMC no way none of them work
There’s no way you have 3 bad BMC’s in a row. It must be a wiring issue. You’ll have to troubleshoot the wiring a bit.
cool, I'm about to swap a 2004 gs300 master cylinder into my 99 gs400.
great video,followed all you steps, but after pumping the brake 20 times with the ignition on the warning buzzer didn't go off,I"am on my second unit from EBAY I"ve become quite the expert of taking the brake booster out did it 4 times already,I finally brought a remanufactured pump, both pumps were shot, going to have my neighbor help me bleed it tomorrow,any extra steps or knowledge if after pumping the brakes 20 times and the buzzer doesn't go off, thank you
Sorry to hear this. I hate these BMC’s. I don’t know anything else besides what I shared. That warning alarm should turn off once the system pressurizes after the motor runs and fluid is topped off. If it stays on the pressure sensor is doing it’s job and there’s a deeper issue. It is peculiar that it has been two pumps bad in a row for you. Possible? Yes. But it makes me wonder if your method is causing an issue. Make sure you’re putting a block under the pedal during pumping. If you over-stroke it it can blow out the internal seal.
4th time was a charm, no more beeping noise no ABS,VSC lights, thanks you again
@@benjaminwaites5879 what method did you use for your car brotha ?
I’ve bled twice already and no air and still have a spongy pedal. But I haven’t tried the 40 20 method. What exactly does the 40 20 method do and is there a more detailed way for it to be sure it’s working? It feels like air because I have a strong pedal after two or three pumps while driving . Soft under the first depress
hello, first of all thank you for this great video !
I currently have a 1997 aristo and I need to change this part.
however I understand that the brake master cylinder of the GS300 can go on ARISTO. do you have the information on that ?
thanks
I believe they change over, but please double-check me. The problem in the USA when using an Aristo BMC is usually with the hardline routing (RHD vs LHD). Not sure if that is a factor in your case or not.
Hi, great video.. but do i have bleed the brakes,?? Even if brake pedal feels good after replace the unit.?
Short answer: yes, always. If you open a closed system that operates under pressure, it’s typically always required to bleed it. The problem is that if it’s not bled, air bubbles can get pushed to key components, like calipers, and failure to operate properly can result.
I got my new unit in and my brakes feel better and it doesn’t have the light on anymore for the brake and makes the noise. But my ABS and VSC lights are still on will they turn off on their own or do I do something to get the system back on?
Did you reset the system by pulling the NEG off the battery?
anyone know if this will work on the toyota aristo?
Added to my saved videos for future reference! :)
I was wondering though, whenever I changed my brakes, the fluid levels would rise whenever the car was parked, then it would go down a little whenever I’m driving it. Is that normal or did I not bleed it properly?
Normal. New pads = thicker and pushes fluid back to the reservoir. Then it gets consumed by the accumulator. 😎
Such an unnecessary complicated set up they put on the 2GS, the LS400 and IS300 had a conventional booster and master cylinder with abs pump separate
Hey man, really detailed video was wondering if the process is similar for a first gen is300. If I brake relatively hard, nearing the bottom, pedal kinda flutters.
If the IS has a BMC set-up like this it should be the same, correct. GL! 👊
Hey, pretty cool video! I have a question about the "optional bleeding the BMC before the formal bleeding process", Did you have the ignition on when you do this? What is the timing for re-tighten the brake line connector after lossen it? (until see some fluid come out?) Thanks!
Ignition was not on for BMC bleed. Timing is fluid coming out for tightening line. GL!
You want to make sure the system is depressurized before loosening any lines. This system stores around 2800 psi of pressurized brake fluid even if it has sat overnight. To depressurize, pump the brakes at least 25 times with the battery disconnected or at least have the ignition switch turned off. I would just disco the battery that way you don't have to worry about the brake lights or shorting something out, etc. Problematic system since the 80s on everything from BMW and Mercedes to Pontiac and Ford. Can't believe manufacturers continued to use this style of braking system into the 2000s. The domestic manufacturers ditched this style back in the early 90s and made the ABS actuator/pump assembly separate from the base power brake system. To rely on an electric pump to develop fluid pressure for power braking instead of a vacuum booster. Not to mention when the pump fails, you lose rear brakes altogether.
If the pump has failed, there should be no pressure in the system. Something that you want to do on these Teves type systems is listen to how often the pump has to turn on. It should only run every 2 or 3 normal stops. ABS stops are different and the pump will run continuously during a panic stop. If you notice the pump turning on every time you press the brake or you see the ABS and brake warning lights staying on for a while after you park it for a short time, then you want to replace the accumulator. The accumulator is around $200 from Toyota, maybe more now, its been a while since I bought one. No bleeding is necessary for this service. But definitely depressurize the system prior to removing it.
Where is the diagnostic portion of video?
Thanks
Did you watch the entire video? At the beginning. Pig squeal sound.
@@ForwardMomentum
I did, several times.
All good, I found a better diagnostic video on the subject.
Good r and r, though. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have a question when you bleed the unit, did any brake fluid or air come out of the side two brake lines facing the passenger side? The front two facing the bumper did for me but not the side ones.
No, nothing came out of my BMC (if that’s what you mean). LMK if I am misunderstanding you. 👍
@ForwardMomentum Yes, the BMC OK thank you. The first I replaced didn't work, so I'm on my second one, and I wanted to make sure
Honestly that is just a major “push bleed” to get it ready. Actual bleeding clears air out. I wouldn’t gauge BMC success on fluid vs no fluid there. I hope that helps!
Can you please link me to the brake bleeder kit you used
Mityvac MV8000 Professional Single Person Manual Brake and Clutch Bleeding Tune-up Kit a.co/d/6AULvBx
I have the same issue with the bird chirping noise, every 15-30 seconds, it is getting to be more frequent and louder. Is it possible to replace some parts on the system ,hydraulic braking assembly, or it is one complete unit? 2002 GS300, 216k miles, i cannot afford 4k, i really like this vehicle
It is possible, yes. But upon investigation a BMC swap was much more economical. The problem is the accumulator motor commutators disintegrating (we think). So, theoretically, one could replace that motor if it can be found. I started down that road and no one had a solution so I just did the swap.
Great video.
Thank you for posting this, your videos are always so informative. My 1999 gs300 is making bird like sounds at cold start up.
My brake pedal pressure still feels normal and I don’t see any leaks on the garage floor/reservoir is still full.
I have a video on my channel of the noise it makes and someone chimed in and said it’s my brake booster. I occasionally get the brake light icon on my dash but no constant beep sound.
Yep, eventually it will fail. It’s just a matter of time. Sucks.
@@ForwardMomentum I’ve already had the brake master cylinder changed out once before. This is the Achilles heel of these cars.
@@Jeremiah1187 agreed. I hate my BMC. It works fine but it’s always priming and it’s annoying.
Hello, do you have this buzzing sound evertime you turn on car? After I changed pump I have this sound evertime I turn on vehicle, and sometimes when Im using brakes? But still it's much better than It was earlier like in ur case.
Yes, normal. 👍
Thanks for sharing.
I have a 2002 4Runner with an all in one ABS unit. Long story short, when I got to the last procedure where you pumped the brake pedal 20 times. The pressure warning did not go off and my brake pedal feels spongy for some unknown reason. Mind you I have not done the last part of bleeding all 4 brakes. Do you think bleeding the brakes will fix it?
Did you swap the pressure sensor from your bad BMC to your new one? Just curious. If so, definitely repeat the steps a few times. If the warning persists, try to bleed the brakes. If it still persists, try pulling the negative to reset the ABS ECU. If it still persists, you could have a bad unit going in.
love ya man
Thank you for making this vid man! I’ve been watching most of your vids recently. I got a 1997 aristo and I was just wondering if it would be the same for the aristo? If not would you know what is compatible?
If you have a BMC/booster, it should be similar. However, I don’t know for sure if the exact parts and process is the same. Sorry! Thanks for watching!
Thank you I’ve ordered one from Japan. Hoping I fix this issuse
Hi there. I have issue with lexus gs 300, when breaking,RPM drops for a few seconds then rises or car stalls when braking. What is a problem can be?
Follow the FSM low-idle troubleshooting steps. It could be a number of things so guessing and throwing parts at it would be unfair to you. Start with the easy stuff, like post-MAF vac leaks.
@@ForwardMomentum Tank yo very much for you answer and your advice.
I will try it.
Because that really annoying,and no one can finde what is issue is. I've change MAF sensor,after VVTI valve, throttle was cleaning as well.
Would a gs300 brake master cylinder work on a gs400?
It should, yes.
Hi,
My MC is not making these noise but i has leaking a little bit. Should I replace the whole thing or are there components of the MC that can be replaced to fix the leak?
Thanks,
LL
Need to know the source before this can be answered.
Good morning, well, I replaced the BMC with a 430 BMC and unfortunately it didn't eliminate the problem. The unit I installed was supposed to be out of a low mileage 430 GS. In your video you recorded a buzzing noise coming from the BMC when you depressed the brake pedal. When I apply the brakes, I hear a similar noise along with a pulsating brake pedal (there are no dash lights on) before the car comes to a complete stop, it's as though the ABS kicks in right before the car stops, did you experience that as well? Do you know of a company that sells remanufactured BMC for early model GS's? The BMC I purchased come s with a 30-day warranty so I will be it returning it. Any additional Information would be appreciated, thanks.
No, I did not experience that exact issue. Yes, it did/does “buzz” when the accumulator motor kicks on, but never premature ABS initiation as you described. Make sure it’s 100% bled properly and then consider returning it.
hey man, im having issues with my brake master cylinder for (1998 gs300) and i was wondering i heard rumors of the brake master cylinder being the same one for a 1998 to 2003 land cruiser. i just wanted to ask if you know anything about that.
I have never heard of that, but if you find out it does work, please report back.
@@ForwardMomentum it’s a negative, they super similar but it doesn’t fit.
How bout the gasket between firewall and the unit,?? Do you have to replace it?
No.
I got it installed but but now it leaks a lot and i can't drive it because brake fluid is harmful to my suspension
Check your hardline connections. Could also be a bad replacement unit.
Thanks for the video. I was watching your bbk video and stopped instantly to come to this one. Im new to the chassis (gs3) why an sc430 booster?
I explained it in the video, but maybe you missed it? Generally the 430 boosters will be newer, have less miles, and there’s a rumor the bore is slightly larger. The first two reasons are why I did it, but I have a 400, which stopped production in 2000.
Nice job
I would like to know where you got the part from my 99 gs300 started making the noise today like to replace it thanks
See vid description.
Is the SC430 still the best way to go for reliability in your opinion? Thanks!
Yes
Hello mate.I have a gs430 and the brake master cylinder soon will be gone. Locally i can find anything from left hand drive gs to buy this part. Luckily there are 2 sc430 lhd for parts in my country and both of them have this part.Can you confirm that it will fit?You mentioned that the sc brake master cylinder is bigger. Will it fit without issues?
Thanks for your reply :)
Yes of course. It’s what I put in my car. 👍
@@ForwardMomentum Thanks for the update.Asking because you know sometimes there are backscreen play 🤣
Does any sound from the system mean, it’s going bad? My brakes are hard at times and normal at others. But it always makes light sound when I apply the brakes. Just got the car 00’ gs300, just trying to understand
Distant buzzing is ok. That is the accumulator motor operating. I noticed that the buzzing gets louder over time, then the screeching will start. The screeching is the accumulator motor commutator coming apart and grinding the debris in there. Nice huh? All that being said, you may want to perform a bleed to see if that alleviates your random pedal firmness.
Do you know what the issue on my 98 GS300 is?
Basically it sometimes just does not start, the roadside assistance person said something wrong with the fuel. The pump was replaced only 2 months ago. This morning it started but yesterday it didnt
It’s pretty tough to play parts roulette over the internet on just a little info. Did it have trouble starting prior to the fuel pump change?
Did you remove the object underneath the brake pedal after bleeding the BCM?
No, I still drive with it there to this day. 😂 Seriously though, once bleeding is done, remove the block.
@@ForwardMomentum not what I meant lol. Is it only left there for bleeding the module or for the entire bleeding process
Oh, ha ha! Yeah, I just left it there for the entire bleeding process, including the BMC and all calipers. Just didn’t want to risk over-stroking the cylinder.
I can’t seem to figure out what to replace on my gs400 when stopping the pedal feels semi normal until around 3-1 mph and the pedal goes firm and it makes a buzzing noise , and it ends up breaking but like if my car is sliding, sorry my explanation is horrible
Have the wheel speed sensors checked with a proper scan tool. After that, it’s probably the BMC.
@@ForwardMomentum thank you !! I will check and let you know what it was !
Hi I have a question. Do you need to update your brake calipers after this upgrade? Thank you.
No you do not.
I have a 1999 GS 400. I replaced the brake master cylinder about 5 years ago and now the replacement is failing. My question is do you think the 430 BMC is a better unit for that car?
Better because the piston bore size is slightly larger (I’m told) and because they’re usually newer and typically from a car that didn’t get thrashed…that’s why I like them.
@@ForwardMomentum Thanks for your response, I appreciate that information. I was thinking along the same lines as the 430 master cylinder maybe newer than the one for the 400 or 300, thanks again