Just replaced the electric motor on my 2002 4Runner. This video was a huge help. For anyone wondering: Though it is difficult, it is possible to do without removing the entire module.
I came across this looking to help a forum member that is having an ABS issue. Great explanation, calming voice, yet I didn't fall asleep watching. Thank you putting this info out there for us shade tree mechanics.
no forum even considered this option - bought the motor off of Amazon for $68- spent an hour on pulling/replacing - another hour bleeding the system and saved -thousands$$$ Thanks again for taking the time - BTW, actually took the cap off of the motor and found only one contact still hanging on! 2002 Toyota 4runner 287k miles
Thanks for this insight into the Toyota ABS system, debunking the 'Mystery' that prevents home DIY repairs on the braking system, will save so many people a lot of money, Cheers
Thanks. This is good to know that you can remove just the solenoid and replace it instead of removing the whole ABS unit from the firewall. Should add a parts list on the video description too.
Hi there. I’m in Australia and have just experienced a super dangerous situation with my 2005 Toyota UZJ100 Land Cruiser. That exact same thing happened to my motor and without warning. It has only 124000kms on he clock. I renewed the complete brake master cylinder ABS assembly.Thanks for sharing your explanation.
Nice overview of braking system. I just changed motor and accumulator assembly in my 4Runner. I used painters tape to secure nuts to socket for the firewall mount. Makes threading easy. I used forceps to insert brake pedal pin. For bleeding, suggest pressing brake pedal while releasing lines. This pressurizes lines. For 4Runners, this job can be done without removing dashboard knee panel.
Thank you so much for this video. I think i will be able to fix mine. Just got quoted 2200.00 by mechanic. Looking forward to working on it. I will contribute to you channel. Thank you. I knew this could be fixed. Mine had noise for a long time, then Yesterday a non-stop whistle type noise, brakes FAILED on the road. I was lucky. PLEASE FIX THIS ASAP when you start hearing the noises. YOU CAN GET INTO A REALLY BAD ACCIDENT WITH NO BRAKES.
I made a stupid mistake and reversed the polarity on some jumper cables. Now my ABS is not working and getting the noise. This video is very informative.
Thanks so much as you rightly said the brake master cylinder have the rear Wheels and the front wheels but some times the front wheels will supply brake fluid while the rear will not supply brake fluid at all
I just wanna say one thing you are the man I have been looking for somebody to explain how you did on the inner web forever now thank you so much you rock dude
just got through changing out the ABS motor- thanks to you I saved about $4,000- not having to listen to the dealership. One question- HOW THE HECK DO I RESET THE ALARM!!!!!!!!!
Other things can cause the Master Cylinder, ABS, Booster to fail. I think the accumulator can also leak..... I have had 2 fail. Its makes a squeaking/chirping sounds.
Thank you so much for explaining this I thought I got a bad motor because it would cycle here and there but you are very detailed in what it does. Thank you again 👍
you do not need to worry about air bubble and properly bleeding it , just after you install do this steps. 1. fill with fluid 5.1 I prefer. 2. do not start the car ! 3. Start pumping the brake pedal like 30 times until the pedeall will fall through to the firewall . 4. at the point you are done. 5. start the ignition and the brake pedal will reset.
@SP K well. I thought it was a direct swap but there is a 3 pin connector not plugged into my entire unit... I figured my 3 lights on the dash were directly because of that connector not being plugged in.
There can be another type of failure - internal high pressure switch. Motor is ok, but it pumps the brake fluid for a long time and pressure is getting dropped because high pressure switch does not cut off the motor.
Adding to the question. I have a Prado LC120 with this type of fault. Sometimes the motor is pumping,sometimes not. O was long way from home with no mechanich on the way that could fix this,so I used a thin iron pole to knuck on the motor in order to make it work. Got to home but still haven fixed the problem. After much of reading I decided to order the repair kit from UK,even before dissasembling all,because the mechanics in my town are all on vacation. So I risked 130GPB and ordered the kit to try and save time. I just hope that it will not be the hogh pressure valve,or I thrown away that money and still didn't fix the problem. Soooo,how the check if the valve is bad???
@@pretekaomne9210 I’m sorry but master cylinder repair kit fixes only pedal pressing issue - when you press brake pedal and hold it - your truck may stop for a while and then continue moving, regardless you holding brake pedal. But it will not solve motor / pump / high pressure switch issue. I’ve passed through this already
Now I see that I didn't write that I ordered the brake booster electric motor repair kit, so if it's the electric motor fault-I should solve it. But if it's something else.... One more thing-when the motor of the pump worked-I heard 2 times pumping for 4-5 sec when I turn the contact switch. That makes the brake pedal go down and become softer,as it should be. Also the beeping and error lights go down and I can drive normaly. But eventually,when I use the brake a couple of times-the sound goes on again,so do the error lights and the brake pedal goes stiff. Is it enough to conclude that the motor has some dead angle where it won't start turning and pumping?
What can cause the brake fluid on these (2000 GS300 version) to drain over a week or two of use? Mechanic says the entire master cylinder/abs assembly needs to be replaced. Not sure if your motor fix addresses that issue. Brakes function fine while fluid is full. Stays full for some use, then drops.
My 2001 4Runner v6 brake pedal sinks when I press softly. If I press harder it holds. What would cause that? It has the same ABS assembly as you showed in this great video.
Answering my own comment: I’m reading that the cup seals or bore in the master cylinder may be worn. Can that be rebuilt, or is a replacement recommended?
@@michaelcampana3357 So on my 2007 FJ cruiser I have to depress the brake pedal down hard to stop, the pedal at this point is near the floor. I replaced the rear calipers, pads and rotors ( first time replacing them since new) Bleed the entire brake system and the same issue exists, pedal near to the floor to stop. It seems the rear brakes are not working. The pump appears to be in working order, no codes or weird noises from the pump assembly. I removed the brake booster unit and order the master cylinder piston off of ebay with the hope it fixes my sinking pedal. After uprooting the fluid reservoir one of the 3 cup seals has a little corrosion around it so will be ordering new one and also order a new pressure tank. I'll follow up after the rebuild...
Installing a bad motor if i remove the black electric box on the right side, do i need to bleed the system or would it caused me to do additional steps? Thanks again for help.
Replacing the pump motor is one thing, but in some cases, the motor is running too often due to communication somewhere in the brake control module. In that case, it seems like the only fix is to replace the unit.
Thank you for the great video, I do not have any error codes or any problem when braking, but when I step very hard on the brake pedal of my 2011 Camry hybrid I hear the noise that is described by the dealership as ABS pump failure trying to accumulate pressure. I purchased a refurbished ABS assembly to install it myself but the noise disappeared for some reason, do I need to worry? this is my son's car. Thanks
The Pajero uses exactly the same system, the motor can't be bought separately. You have to replace the entire system at the same price as a used pajero. I also removed the motor and had it rebuild by an auto electrician.
Great video! Just what i was looking for. I have 01 4Runner. Hard brake tubing leaked at frame rail causing fluid to drain completely. Replaced/patched new section and bleed brakes. Able to get good brake pedal pressure to wheels but ABS light and buzzer still on. Drove several times and slammed on brakes with without fixing ABS warning light. Can there still be air within this area and still have decent brake pressure? Should i be looking into other areas to diagnose the ABS warning light and buzzer? With ignition on, i hear the pump turning on and off approximately every 15-20 seconds. Pump runs for a short period and cut off repeatedly. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again fir an excellant video.
Maybe you need a Scan Tool to cancel the ABS light. Might try disconnecting the battery for a short period. My mechanic canceled mine( 100series) with his Scan Tool.
Have done it on my Prado 120 too. It's a pain in the ass to take the motor out without removing the whole unit. After 2 h Ive done it and now I can give the motor to the specialist
I found on my 2002 Lexus GS300 that I could not remove the motor while the ABS assembly was in the vehicle. The replacment motor arrived with a new cable, so I ended up disconnecting the opposite end of the cable as done in the video. The problem is that I did not label which terminal the red and black wires go to for the new motor. If you still have your ABS assembly, are you able to provide a photo showing which terminal each color wire goes to?
Pregunta simple y directa. Con los datos de ruido en la bomba, encendido de la lámpara de ABS y BRAKE, más un molesto y persistente pito. Todo en un Land Cruiser del 2001 que supera los 220,000 kilómetros. Recomiendas reemplazar el colector del motor y los carbones de contacto? El acumulador es necesario reemplazar también? Si no puedes facilitar el correo electrónico para compartir el vídeo que emite el sonido de la bomba lo agradecería. Anexo el código que da la OBD2 es el C1256 Falla por baja presión en el acumulador.
@@maximofidelio7847 Saludos, le realizaron cambio de fluido con DOT 3 y además se reemplazó el tanque metálico que va pegado junto a la bomba de freno. Se sintió la mejoría en el pedal de inmediato. Pero el pito y la luz se calman solos como 15 minutos después mientras conduces. Supongo que con una PC OBD2 se puede reiniciar todo y salir sin el ruido. Suerte con la reparación.
I have 2003 4Runner V6.0 and is it possible to just remove and replace the motor while the ABS system still attached to the car without the hassle of disconnect the brake lines?
So well explained! Thank you. Just subscribed. My 2004 GX470 giving me this weird buzz sound and I think the motor is the issue. Is there a part # just for the electric motor?
Hi there. Great video, thanks for the detailed explanation and breakdown. I would really appreciate the link to purchase the parts to refurbish the motor as I'll need to undergo this process on my unit that keens losing pressure. Thank you!
Can you explain how to fix 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser . Only two error codes were stored: C1241 and C1452. No ABS light stays on the dashboard when drive. Accumulator sensor voltage in range between 3.4 to 4.7 and change when pump operated
I have a 2006 Tacoma. I have the electronic brake system. I don’t have any lights on the dash but it seems like I have to push harder than normal to stop the truck? It’s like it lacks boost? I can lock he tires up but it take more foot pressure than it should? I do hear what sounds like the motor when I start the truck and have my foot on the brake………..Could it be that motor is going bad or is that just the way it was designed?
My ABS system and brakes are working fine but I have this squeaky noise comes out of my brakes when I release the brake pedal - My Mechanic told me to either live with the noise or I would have to replace the whole ABS unit - I have Lexus ls500 2020 - The brakes and the rotors are brand new and the noise is not that much but bothersome - Any idea what could cause that squeaky noise ?
Hi My 2007 RX 350 brake padel sink down, the master cylinder was changed two times still same issue, Can I remove ABS fuses to see if it works with out it? Thanks
@DadsGotADeal are you saying you should bleed the brakes on the assembly before reinstall or can you just bleed the breaks normally once the whole unit is reinstalled back in the engine bay?
Will pressure bleeders work on this type of system for changing brake fluid front and rear? I know you can use the motor to bleed the rears, but trying to see if a pressure bleeder will work as well to save some wear and tear on the motor.
Mate thanks for the info you share 😉 i have a 2014 Prius C with separate module and pump 😬 i can still do what you do with the pump? I’m thinking maybe pump problem due to noise on the pump i saw on other video that you gonna replace both of them 😬 any advice 😉 thanks in advance 😉
Are there any warning signs that this needs to be replaced? I just bought a 2006 100 series Land Cruiser with 160k Miles, learning about this deadly possibility has me on edge, When I turn the key to on the pump ''pump''s for 28 seconds I heard this is a good indicator of health? Any info would greatly greatly be appreciated
Nice writeup. Insightful material here. I have a Lexus GS and 4Runner V8 both with this design. Given their ages, I know it's just a matter of time until I have to repair. On the older GS models the failure rates are all but guaranteed at higher mileage. Seems slight improvements were made and in 02+ models, life was a little longer. Curious if you know how compatible these pumps across the different Toyota models. For example would my 4runner motor work on my GS and vice versa?
How’s it going. Sorry I missed this comment. The electric motors are compatible between Toyota’s and Lexus from 2003 and back. Not sure what year going forward they switched to a three bolt electric motor.
Thanks for the video. I ordered a motor from Ebay and replaced it on my sons GS300. I ran out of time for the night and only bled fluid at the accumulator not the wheels. Took for a short test drive and I’m getting a noise under the car that almost sounds like gears thumping or slipping. I’m hoping that bleeding at the wheels will make it go away but we’ll see
@@vonnie3922 yes! Turns out that my son had swapped the front abs sensors. I checked with a scan tool while driving and there was no output below 5 mph. I pulled the front wheels and checked the speed sensors. The bolts were tight but the sensor wasn’t all the way in. I took them out, greased the edges and they snapped in all the way. Put it back together and test drove. Working great now. No more issues
@@richardy. ,I couldn’t find any exploded views of the unit , I’ve been hesitant to take it somewhere just knowing it isn’t going to be cheap , I to am going to call Toyota to see how much they charge for the unit itself, and was told that they put the unit on a computer to reset the unit afterwards , 💸💸💸💸
I have a 2009 tacoma with the same system , but my truck hen im applying the brakes slowly and with out pressing the perdal hard it brakes on me real hard can you help me if is the motor need to be replace thenks in advance
My gx470 is getting codes c1340 c1256 c1236 c1223 c0205 c0200 All indicating master cylinder, brakes are getting lock up here and there, should I replace the whole system or is the motor causing this? Thank you
Hi I had a question?….I have a 2006 gs430 and I’m getting break pressure to 3 wheels but not the 4 it’s the rear driver side is there a way to fix that or rebuild it if do I have to get another to replace it?….thank you
Is this the same part and process for the 2011 Toyota 4Runner? I’m having a difficult time finding instructions for this particular body style. The assembly is difficult to find outside of Toyota factory. I am considering replacing just the electric motor part to avoid drain/refill on the brakes, but i cant find any information specific to the part used on the 2011 4Runner. Any links or help or guidance are appreciated.
Great video! I’m still not sure whyToyota went with this set up and not the vacuum boosted brakes that are much simpler and reliable other than to field test a new and fancy braking system. They use the vacuum boost on their heavy v8 lineups also (tundra/sequoia), so other than a slight improvement in braking it seems this design only increases the complexity and ownership costs with marginal braking gains.
I'm having this issue with my GX470, so I decided to ask around and see why Toyota used this weird setup on their vehicles. I have found that they use this set up because it is much better at controlling long term duty cycles like Down Hill Assist, Crawl Control, A-Trac, etc.
@@chipper203 makes sense; I’ve learnt to live with it but it definitely would be a reason that I might consider moving into a different rig. Unless the cost of the brake booster declines as Toyota realizes there’s a reputation risk to this tech in terms of longevity (hopefully).
@@KimathiTheLeopard Yeah, it is crazy the unit is so expensive. I wish you could buy a new oem motor, not just the whole unit. im not sure a trust a reman one. To say somthing good about the system, mine has lasted 240,000 miles.
@@chipper203 agree! Mine’s at about the same mileage also. I recently flushed out all the brake fluid and plan to do at least a partial flush annually from here on with the hopes of extending the life a bit.
@@KimathiTheLeopard You do realize that the common failure point is entirely electrical in nature, and has nothing to do with the brake fluid itself, right? I'm not discounting the need for doing brake fluid exchanges at reasonable intervals. The DOT-3 brake fluid used in these systems is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, which over time can corrode your brake lines from the inside out.
you should use electronics spray cleaner, not WD40 spray.. always replace with OEM AISIN unit.. they are the original manufacturer. brakes is not something to skimp on. good vid.
All right, check this out. My motor runs the one that fills the Accumulator, but the motor runs for like five second intervals every 10 or so seconds. My brake pedal incredibly hard do these units fail that way as well?
I am not a mechanic, but I had experienced similar problem with my GS300. Your brake power assist is not working. My guesses are Accumulator. Maybe you should get motor and accumulator assembly.
Hello, I purchased a GX470 in August 2021. A week after purchase I randomly began experienced a clicking sound from behind the dash shortly before the anti-skid light begins to flash on the dash. The clicking sounds like plastic gears grinding against each other. Then one, or a combination of things start happening. - The SUV will decrease speed and not exceed 40mph. - The brakes become very sensitive and pull violently to one side when pressed. - The steering wheel begins to shake violently. - The clicking remains consistent whenever the accelerator is pressed. It will sometimes stop randomly or after I pull to the shoulder and restart the engine. Over the past few months I have done the following: - Changed the bearings front wheel bearing. - I replaced the speed sensor. - Replace the ABS brake booster motor - I replaced the OEM ACCUMULATOR ASSY, BRAKE BOOSTER. - Bleed and flush the brake lines. I would appreciate knowing if you have experienced anything like this and what you discovered to be the issue. The dealership seems clueless, but they don't mind charging me to try and figure it out.
Doing some research on my abs system in my lx 270 (year 2000). My car was doing the same thing. One guy on a forum said a quick fix is removing the abs sol fuse. Another said replacing the rack bushings on the steering wheel fixed it instantly. I haven't tried replacing the rack bushings or doing what has been done in this video those so i dont know. But that could be the solution
One response suggest a caliper frozen and I would second that. Easy to diagnose if you are getting a hard pull in either direction, braking or not. Mine got so hot that the rim heated up and caused the tire to bulge to the point it impacted upper control arm. That manifested itself in a steering wheel shake. I immediately stopped and saw the issue, you will see it and smell the brake pads if yours is sticking. Easy fix in the end….
please can some help i got a problem with same unit,the preasure from all system does not drops back,so it holds on all 4 wheels is that master cilynder or some valve or what,cozz i change all pistons gummies cilynders on brake calibers,same shit
Had your exact explanation happen to me today, car is now at mechanic and I’m expecting a huge bill. This seems pretty challenging, is there a lot of ways someone could mess this up?
Hey, great video.... Thanks. I really need some help: I replaced the motor and it worked for some days, today I felt that the motor is working more time than usual and I have the beep alarm on the dash, what should I do? Thanks again.
I can see the wire of each carbon brush are in the final part of its stroke, definitavally carbons brush need to be replaced, i dont know if this spare can be finded, thank you for this video
Hello mate, thank you for the Info, I'm in Australia, I have a 2000 toyota prado that has same abs brake set up in this video, all abs traction control ights come on dash when start car and beeps, the pressure tube above makes a weird noise off and on also, I have a small video of it would love for you to give some advice on prob if same as you done.....
My accumulator electric motor makes a dreadful squealing noise when the outside temperature is cold in the morning, it runs quiet and works properly during the day. From looking at your breakdown, I’m wondering if the bearing on the shaft is dry? Does this sound right to you? Wonder if the outside tin case can be taken off in situ and a bit of wd40 sprayed on the bearing?
I have the EXACT same issue. When it is cold in the morning, you start the '04 GX470 with foot on brake, let off and you hear the pump motor followed by 2 or 3 squeals or "bob-bop-bop" sound and it stops. Drive down the road and at a light it will do it again. After about 3 miles with a few stops along the way it doesn't make the noise. I have no lights on the dash. I found the ENTIRE unit OEM brand new for $1400 so I may just buy it, the new motor refurb'd is $300. Glad I am not the only one this happens to in the cold mornings!
@@AZRubicon1 I was reading on a forum Ih8mud that the noise is the seals on the master cylinder wearing out. The fella sounded like he knew what he was saying. I’ve got a small video of it. I will upload to my channel next week when I get home. All sounds expensive.
@@AZRubicon1 I’ve got a similar noise on my 04 GX470, only on cold mornings I’ll hear the motor go on, then it will make a very short bbbjjjttt noise, but the brakes work great and no lights. I’m nervous it’ll fail one day and I live on a giant hill so I might start investigating. Let us know what you do and if it fixed it. I’m on ‘mud under infinity00
I removed the entire unit from the car to access the motor/pump. After cleaning and resoldering, the pump runs when direct current is applied. Also put on a new accumulator. Reinstalled the unit back on the car. Now the pump won't run.
With the way the motor components fail and wear out, you can get a situation where the motor works sometimes and not others. If you rotate the armature slightly it might start working, but its not really possible when installed and it will eventually fail at the spot again
My question: is it true we have to use DOT3 brake fluid only? Not DOT4? Because even for 2022 4runners user manual instructs to use DOT3, while 2022 Rav4 manual allows to use DOT3 and DOT4, while all mechanics say "DOT4 is same as DOT3 but better"
Una vez me hice esa pregunta y viví la mala experiencia de dañar una bomba de freno en un auto antiguo que en la tapa decía que usé DOT 3 y yo llevándome de unos mecánicos que decían que es lo mismo pero mejor le puse uno de mayor número. Específicamente DOT 5.1 Lamentablemente me vi en la necesidad de reemplazar todo y colocar DOT 3 en este caso de la marca Motul. Excelente resultado y buen frenado. Recomendaciones es poner lo que diga el fabricante y de una marca reconocida o el original.
Just replaced the electric motor on my 2002 4Runner. This video was a huge help. For anyone wondering: Though it is difficult, it is possible to do without removing the entire module.
Did you replace the brushes and the commutator ? Or like a whole new casing/ electric motor.
@@forestbell3853 I was able to find the entire electric motor replacement for sale for around 400 bucks.
@@maneetlubana3564 where at?
Finally... Thank You
@@maneetlubana3564 where at you get the electric motor, and any part number? I do have same issue in my FJ Cruiser 2007, please advice
لقد عانيت من هذه المشكلة اليوم كنت ساتسبب بحادث طريق اشكرك علي هذه الشرح هذا ما كان ينقصني شكرا لك من ليبيا 🇱🇾
ايش الذي فهمته من هذا الشرح
فك علبة وانا افهمها من قبل ههه
I came across this looking to help a forum member that is having an ABS issue. Great explanation, calming voice, yet I didn't fall asleep watching. Thank you putting this info out there for us shade tree mechanics.
Glad it helped!
@@DadsGotADealDo you have the link to the kit, dude? Please and thank you?
no forum even considered this option - bought the motor off of Amazon for $68- spent an hour on pulling/replacing - another hour bleeding the system and saved -thousands$$$ Thanks again for taking the time - BTW, actually took the cap off of the motor and found only one contact still hanging on! 2002 Toyota 4runner 287k miles
Thanks for this insight into the Toyota ABS system, debunking the 'Mystery' that prevents home DIY repairs on the braking system, will save so many people a lot of money, Cheers
Thanks. This is good to know that you can remove just the solenoid and replace it instead of removing the whole ABS unit from the firewall. Should add a parts list on the video description too.
Hi there. I’m in Australia and have just experienced a super dangerous situation with my 2005 Toyota UZJ100 Land Cruiser. That exact same thing happened to my motor and without warning. It has only 124000kms on he clock. I renewed the complete brake master cylinder ABS assembly.Thanks for sharing your explanation.
Nice overview of braking system. I just changed motor and accumulator assembly in my 4Runner. I used painters tape to secure nuts to socket for the firewall mount. Makes threading easy. I used forceps to insert brake pedal pin. For bleeding, suggest pressing brake pedal while releasing lines. This pressurizes lines. For 4Runners, this job can be done without removing dashboard knee panel.
правильно
Thank you so much for this video. I think i will be able to fix mine. Just got quoted 2200.00 by mechanic. Looking forward to working on it. I will contribute to you channel. Thank you. I knew this could be fixed. Mine had noise for a long time, then Yesterday a non-stop whistle type noise, brakes FAILED on the road. I was lucky. PLEASE FIX THIS ASAP when you start hearing the noises. YOU CAN GET INTO A REALLY BAD ACCIDENT WITH NO BRAKES.
2200.00 is cost of new brake booster assembly.
Does show a warming light on the dashboard? Thanks
@stayinyourlane1295 what noises do you hear ?
I made a stupid mistake and reversed the polarity on some jumper cables. Now my ABS is not working and getting the noise. This video is very informative.
Thanks so much as you rightly said the brake master cylinder have the rear Wheels and the front wheels but some times the front wheels will supply brake fluid while the rear will not supply brake fluid at all
Nice job. A straight and simple explanation with no gimmicks. Bravo!
I just wanna say one thing you are the man I have been looking for somebody to explain how you did on the inner web forever now thank you so much you rock dude
just got through changing out the ABS motor- thanks to you I saved about $4,000- not having to listen to the dealership.
One question- HOW THE HECK DO I RESET THE ALARM!!!!!!!!!
I took mines out
@@tyronejda2202 mind sharing how you did that
@@tyronejda2202how? Got to do that too haha
Other things can cause the Master Cylinder, ABS, Booster to fail. I think the accumulator can also leak..... I have had 2 fail. Its makes a squeaking/chirping sounds.
Unfortunately it looks like I’ll have to replace it due to a leak :(
Thank you so much for explaining this I thought I got a bad motor because it would cycle here and there but you are very detailed in what it does. Thank you again 👍
you do not need to worry about air bubble and properly bleeding it , just after you install do this steps. 1. fill with fluid 5.1 I prefer. 2. do not start the car ! 3. Start pumping the brake pedal like 30 times until the pedeall will fall through to the firewall . 4. at the point you are done. 5. start the ignition and the brake pedal will reset.
About to try this
Ugh I have to re pin a connector I forgot about.
@@LOWLUHCALLIN no need to re-pin this is a manual way to bleed pump and ABS
@SP K well. I thought it was a direct swap but there is a 3 pin connector not plugged into my entire unit... I figured my 3 lights on the dash were directly because of that connector not being plugged in.
@SP K just fid it. My brakes are back for sure. No mor3 air. 3 lights on dash still tho. Really gotta find a diagram and spare connector :(
Excellent presentation and I like the way you remain on subject!
There can be another type of failure - internal high pressure switch. Motor is ok, but it pumps the brake fluid for a long time and pressure is getting dropped because high pressure switch does not cut off the motor.
how could I check if this is the case?
Adding to the question. I have a Prado LC120 with this type of fault. Sometimes the motor is pumping,sometimes not. O was long way from home with no mechanich on the way that could fix this,so I used a thin iron pole to knuck on the motor in order to make it work. Got to home but still haven fixed the problem. After much of reading I decided to order the repair kit from UK,even before dissasembling all,because the mechanics in my town are all on vacation. So I risked 130GPB and ordered the kit to try and save time. I just hope that it will not be the hogh pressure valve,or I thrown away that money and still didn't fix the problem.
Soooo,how the check if the valve is bad???
@@pretekaomne9210 I’m sorry but master cylinder repair kit fixes only pedal pressing issue - when you press brake pedal and hold it - your truck may stop for a while and then continue moving, regardless you holding brake pedal. But it will not solve motor / pump / high pressure switch issue. I’ve passed through this already
Now I see that I didn't write that I ordered the brake booster electric motor repair kit, so if it's the electric motor fault-I should solve it. But if it's something else....
One more thing-when the motor of the pump worked-I heard 2 times pumping for 4-5 sec when I turn the contact switch. That makes the brake pedal go down and become softer,as it should be. Also the beeping and error lights go down and I can drive normaly. But eventually,when I use the brake a couple of times-the sound goes on again,so do the error lights and the brake pedal goes stiff. Is it enough to conclude that the motor has some dead angle where it won't start turning and pumping?
@@pretekaomne9210 well, if it is electric motor repair kit then you should be fine.
Great video. Good teacher friend. Is it ever necessary to press on the pedal when doing the wheels ?
Great explanation of how this system works thanks
What can cause the brake fluid on these (2000 GS300 version) to drain over a week or two of use? Mechanic says the entire master cylinder/abs assembly needs to be replaced. Not sure if your motor fix addresses that issue. Brakes function fine while fluid is full. Stays full for some use, then drops.
My 2001 4Runner v6 brake pedal sinks when I press softly. If I press harder it holds. What would cause that? It has the same ABS assembly as you showed in this great video.
Answering my own comment: I’m reading that the cup seals or bore in the master cylinder may be worn. Can that be rebuilt, or is a replacement recommended?
@@michaelcampana3357 So on my 2007 FJ cruiser I have to depress the brake pedal down hard to stop, the pedal at this point is near the floor. I replaced the rear calipers, pads and rotors ( first time replacing them since new) Bleed the entire brake system and the same issue exists, pedal near to the floor to stop. It seems the rear brakes are not working. The pump appears to be in working order, no codes or weird noises from the pump assembly. I removed the brake booster unit and order the master cylinder piston off of ebay with the hope it fixes my sinking pedal. After uprooting the fluid reservoir one of the 3 cup seals has a little corrosion around it so will be ordering new one and also order a new pressure tank. I'll follow up after the rebuild...
What's great about this video is learning that the motor v. the entire unit can be replaced. I was quoted like 4k from the dealership.
Glad it helped
I have been quoted the same price, $3k for part and $980 for 4 hrs LABOR!!! this is on my 2008 Highlander
Thank you so much~~~ :D I just had mine replace - spent $120 and 5 hours without taking whole assembly off.
What problem did you had and what part did you bought can you share ?
Can you share where you got the part ?
Installing a bad motor if i remove the black electric box on the right side, do i need to bleed the system or would it caused me to do additional steps? Thanks again for help.
Replacing the pump motor is one thing, but in some cases, the motor is running too often due to communication somewhere in the brake control module. In that case, it seems like the only fix is to replace the unit.
Thanks. How often and how long should the pump motor run?
Thank you for the great video, I do not have any error codes or any problem when braking, but when I step very hard on the brake pedal of my 2011 Camry hybrid I hear the noise that is described by the dealership as ABS pump failure trying to accumulate pressure. I purchased a refurbished ABS assembly to install it myself but the noise disappeared for some reason, do I need to worry? this is my son's car. Thanks
Great video, would this be the same assembly for the 2008 LS460 ?
The Pajero uses exactly the same system, the motor can't be bought separately. You have to replace the entire system at the same price as a used pajero. I also removed the motor and had it rebuild by an auto electrician.
Great info and done very well. 04 Toyota 4runner replacement. Thank you for your help
Will this help me get rid of code c1251 "Pump motor lock/open"? 4runner
Great video! Just what i was looking for. I have 01 4Runner. Hard brake tubing leaked at frame rail causing fluid to drain completely. Replaced/patched new section and bleed brakes. Able to get good brake pedal pressure to wheels but ABS light and buzzer still on. Drove several times and slammed on brakes with without fixing ABS warning light.
Can there still be air within this area and still have decent brake pressure? Should i be looking into other areas to diagnose the ABS warning light and buzzer?
With ignition on, i hear the pump turning on and off approximately every 15-20 seconds. Pump runs for a short period and cut off repeatedly.
Any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again fir an excellant video.
Maybe you need a Scan Tool to cancel the ABS light. Might try disconnecting the battery for a short period. My mechanic canceled mine( 100series) with his Scan Tool.
Is this what causes the intermittent buzzing sound that the ABS makes?
Have done it on my Prado 120 too. It's a pain in the ass to take the motor out without removing the whole unit. After 2 h Ive done it and now I can give the motor to the specialist
My motor comes with a small black rubber gasket where does it go?
Do you have a part number for just the motor?
Great video, awesome instructions and presentation. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge about this issue.
I found on my 2002 Lexus GS300 that I could not remove the motor while the ABS assembly was in the vehicle. The replacment motor arrived with a new cable, so I ended up disconnecting the opposite end of the cable as done in the video.
The problem is that I did not label which terminal the red and black wires go to for the new motor.
If you still have your ABS assembly, are you able to provide a photo showing which terminal each color wire goes to?
Pregunta simple y directa. Con los datos de ruido en la bomba, encendido de la lámpara de ABS y BRAKE, más un molesto y persistente pito.
Todo en un Land Cruiser del 2001 que supera los 220,000 kilómetros.
Recomiendas reemplazar el colector del motor y los carbones de contacto?
El acumulador es necesario reemplazar también?
Si no puedes facilitar el correo electrónico para compartir el vídeo que emite el sonido de la bomba lo agradecería.
Anexo el código que da la OBD2 es el C1256 Falla por baja presión en el acumulador.
Pudistes arreglar el problema sobre el pitido tengo el mismo problema y no se como empezar
@@maximofidelio7847 Saludos, le realizaron cambio de fluido con DOT 3 y además se reemplazó el tanque metálico que va pegado junto a la bomba de freno. Se sintió la mejoría en el pedal de inmediato. Pero el pito y la luz se calman solos como 15 minutos después mientras conduces.
Supongo que con una PC OBD2 se puede reiniciar todo y salir sin el ruido.
Suerte con la reparación.
I have 2003 4Runner V6.0 and is it possible to just remove and replace the motor while the ABS system still attached to the car without the hassle of disconnect the brake lines?
So well explained! Thank you. Just subscribed. My 2004 GX470 giving me this weird buzz sound and I think the motor is the issue. Is there a part # just for the electric motor?
My 99 Gs 400 Makes Same Buzzing Noise When I Press The Brake. Dealer Told Me I Need Replace Hydraulic Brake Booster Assembly.
So i dont have to bleed form the caliper?.. just do it from the bmc itself??
Hi there. Great video, thanks for the detailed explanation and breakdown. I would really appreciate the link to purchase the parts to refurbish the motor as I'll need to undergo this process on my unit that keens losing pressure.
Thank you!
would it be possible to replace this with a different abs pump from another car? some that may be less prone to failure than these ones are.
Can you explain how to fix 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser . Only two error codes were stored: C1241 and C1452. No ABS light stays on the dashboard when drive. Accumulator sensor voltage in range between 3.4 to 4.7 and change when pump operated
How do you remove the push rod am not get any fluid out the rear pipes
I have a 2006 Tacoma. I have the electronic brake system. I don’t have any lights on the dash but it seems like I have to push harder than normal to stop the truck? It’s like it lacks boost? I can lock he tires up but it take more foot pressure than it should? I do hear what sounds like the motor when I start the truck and have my foot on the brake………..Could it be that motor is going bad or is that just the way it was designed?
My ABS system and brakes are working fine but I have this squeaky noise comes out of my brakes when I release the brake pedal - My Mechanic told me to either live with the noise or I would have to replace the whole ABS unit - I have Lexus ls500 2020 - The brakes and the rotors are brand new and the noise is not that much but bothersome - Any idea what could cause that squeaky noise ?
Hi
My 2007 RX 350 brake padel sink down, the master cylinder was changed two times still same issue, Can I remove ABS fuses to see if it works with out it?
Thanks
@DadsGotADeal are you saying you should bleed the brakes on the assembly before reinstall or can you just bleed the breaks normally once the whole unit is reinstalled back in the engine bay?
Does the issue also include the infamous "dolphin/chirping" noise in the gs300's?
2000 Lexus lx470 brake pedal goes to the floor it seems like it all leaked out the pump or master cylinder I don’t see any of the lines leaking.
Will pressure bleeders work on this type of system for changing brake fluid front and rear? I know you can use the motor to bleed the rears, but trying to see if a pressure bleeder will work as well to save some wear and tear on the motor.
Hey, thank you. Your video was helpful. Can you get that modulator valve part?
i get a rattling noise when im stopped and in drive it goes away if i put it in neutral the sound comes from the driver side front wheel
Can I use that brake master cylinder on a 1996 Toyota Crown?
Mate thanks for the info you share 😉 i have a 2014 Prius C with separate module and pump 😬 i can still do what you do with the pump? I’m thinking maybe pump problem due to noise on the pump i saw on other video that you gonna replace both of them 😬 any advice 😉 thanks in advance 😉
So what happened some times the rear Wheels will not supply brake fluid at all but the front will send fluid
Where can you find the parts and what is the name I have 07 fj cruiser and I dnt know what to do have the same problem
On my 4runner it have intermittent leak. I filled it up and it won't leak again. The leak seems to come from behind the black module.
Hi,
Mine MC works well but it is leaking. What are the common causes and how do you fix them?
Are there any warning signs that this needs to be replaced? I just bought a 2006 100 series Land Cruiser with 160k Miles, learning about this deadly possibility has me on edge, When I turn the key to on the pump ''pump''s for 28 seconds I heard this is a good indicator of health? Any info would greatly greatly be appreciated
какие у тебя проблемы..опиши
Nice writeup. Insightful material here. I have a Lexus GS and 4Runner V8 both with this design. Given their ages, I know it's just a matter of time until I have to repair. On the older GS models the failure rates are all but guaranteed at higher mileage. Seems slight improvements were made and in 02+ models, life was a little longer. Curious if you know how compatible these pumps across the different Toyota models. For example would my 4runner motor work on my GS and vice versa?
How’s it going. Sorry I missed this comment. The electric motors are compatible between Toyota’s and Lexus from 2003 and back. Not sure what year going forward they switched to a three bolt electric motor.
Motor and accumulator up to 2004 GS will work in 03-04 4Runner.
Toyota 4runners from 2003 and earlier And Lexus Gs Model 2003 And Earlier Have The Same Hydraulic Brake Booster Assembly? Or Only The Electric Motor?
Thanks for the video. I ordered a motor from Ebay and replaced it on my sons GS300. I ran out of time for the night and only bled fluid at the accumulator not the wheels. Took for a short test drive and I’m getting a noise under the car that almost sounds like gears thumping or slipping. I’m hoping that bleeding at the wheels will make it go away but we’ll see
Did You Get The Problem Solved?
@@vonnie3922 yes! Turns out that my son had swapped the front abs sensors. I checked with a scan tool while driving and there was no output below 5 mph. I pulled the front wheels and checked the speed sensors. The bolts were tight but the sensor wasn’t all the way in. I took them out, greased the edges and they snapped in all the way. Put it back together and test drove. Working great now. No more issues
@@pelonconstante6271 Awesome !
I’ve got a 2002 4 runner and it’s got a slow leak under the black electrical box what’s behind the electrical box ? Where could it leak from?🤔
I have a 2002 4runner 4x4 with 250k and have the same leak! The bushings must have worn out. Researching of going to buy new unit now or used.
@@richardy. ,I couldn’t find any exploded views of the unit , I’ve been hesitant to take it somewhere just knowing it isn’t going to be cheap , I to am going to call Toyota to see how much they charge for the unit itself, and was told that they put the unit on a computer to reset the unit afterwards , 💸💸💸💸
hi need to replace brake actuator motor, can you send me a link to buy the replacement parts
I have exactly that issue with my 4runner 2006 sport 4x4 and will love the help to find that module if you can
Believe me im tired from changing the ABC poster and rally you change my mind for many thank 🎉
I have a 2009 tacoma with the same system , but my truck hen im applying the brakes slowly and with out pressing the perdal hard it brakes on me real hard can you help me if is the motor need to be replace thenks in advance
My gx470 is getting codes c1340 c1256 c1236 c1223 c0205 c0200
All indicating master cylinder, brakes are getting lock up here and there, should I replace the whole system or is the motor causing this?
Thank you
Hi I had a question?….I have a 2006 gs430 and I’m getting break pressure to 3 wheels but not the 4 it’s the rear driver side is there a way to fix that or rebuild it if do I have to get another to replace it?….thank you
Is this the same part and process for the 2011 Toyota 4Runner? I’m having a difficult time finding instructions for this particular body style. The assembly is difficult to find outside of Toyota factory. I am considering replacing just the electric motor part to avoid drain/refill on the brakes, but i cant find any information specific to the part used on the 2011 4Runner. Any links or help or guidance are appreciated.
вы нашли?
Great video! I’m still not sure whyToyota went with this set up and not the vacuum boosted brakes that are much simpler and reliable other than to field test a new and fancy braking system.
They use the vacuum boost on their heavy v8 lineups also (tundra/sequoia), so other than a slight improvement in braking it seems this design only increases the complexity and ownership costs with marginal braking gains.
I'm having this issue with my GX470, so I decided to ask around and see why Toyota used this weird setup on their vehicles. I have found that they use this set up because it is much better at controlling long term duty cycles like Down Hill Assist, Crawl Control, A-Trac, etc.
@@chipper203 makes sense; I’ve learnt to live with it but it definitely would be a reason that I might consider moving into a different rig. Unless the cost of the brake booster declines as Toyota realizes there’s a reputation risk to this tech in terms of longevity (hopefully).
@@KimathiTheLeopard Yeah, it is crazy the unit is so expensive. I wish you could buy a new oem motor, not just the whole unit. im not sure a trust a reman one. To say somthing good about the system, mine has lasted 240,000 miles.
@@chipper203 agree! Mine’s at about the same mileage also. I recently flushed out all the brake fluid and plan to do at least a partial flush annually from here on with the hopes of extending the life a bit.
@@KimathiTheLeopard You do realize that the common failure point is entirely electrical in nature, and has nothing to do with the brake fluid itself, right? I'm not discounting the need for doing brake fluid exchanges at reasonable intervals. The DOT-3 brake fluid used in these systems is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, which over time can corrode your brake lines from the inside out.
you should use electronics spray cleaner, not WD40 spray.. always replace with OEM AISIN unit.. they are the original manufacturer. brakes is not something to skimp on. good vid.
Thanks dude! My mpg went from 32 to 19 and my brakes arnt working lol/. I have an rx400 is it the same?
You think you can change just the abs motor without on a gs300
All right, check this out. My motor runs the one that fills the
Accumulator, but the motor runs for like five second intervals every 10 or so seconds. My brake pedal incredibly hard do these units fail that way as well?
I am not a mechanic, but I had experienced similar problem with my GS300. Your brake power assist is not working. My guesses are Accumulator. Maybe you should get motor and accumulator assembly.
finally found someone with the same issue except my brake pedal is completely normal
Could you please provide a link to where we can the kit please
Is there a part number out there for an 01-02 4runner for the abs pump motor only?
Is this what goes bad on the abs unit on the 08 Lexus RX400H? That's same abs unit as what is in the 06 and 07 hybrid Highlander. Thanks.
I'm assuming its the same or similar system on the Highlander ('08 for me). $4k estimate for dealer repair
hi i have a toyota landcuiser 2013 were can i buy de motor part with the pump togheter many thanks
Bro how can change brake fluid level sensor this unit?
Bro where is brake oil Conternor sensor location? This same unit
Hello,
I purchased a GX470 in August 2021. A week after purchase I randomly began experienced a clicking sound from behind the dash shortly before the anti-skid light begins to flash on the dash. The clicking sounds like plastic gears grinding against each other. Then one, or a combination of things start happening.
- The SUV will decrease speed and not exceed 40mph.
- The brakes become very sensitive and pull violently to one side when pressed.
- The steering wheel begins to shake violently.
- The clicking remains consistent whenever the accelerator is pressed. It will sometimes stop randomly or after I pull to the shoulder and restart the engine.
Over the past few months I have done the following:
- Changed the bearings front wheel bearing.
- I replaced the speed sensor.
- Replace the ABS brake booster motor
- I replaced the OEM ACCUMULATOR ASSY, BRAKE BOOSTER.
- Bleed and flush the brake lines.
I would appreciate knowing if you have experienced anything like this and what you discovered to be the issue. The dealership seems clueless, but they don't mind charging me to try and figure it out.
Sounds like a frozen caliber common on the 470
Doing some research on my abs system in my lx 270 (year 2000). My car was doing the same thing. One guy on a forum said a quick fix is removing the abs sol fuse. Another said replacing the rack bushings on the steering wheel fixed it instantly. I haven't tried replacing the rack bushings or doing what has been done in this video those so i dont know. But that could be the solution
One response suggest a caliper frozen and I would second that. Easy to diagnose if you are getting a hard pull in either direction, braking or not. Mine got so hot that the rim heated up and caused the tire to bulge to the point it impacted upper control arm. That manifested itself in a steering wheel shake. I immediately stopped and saw the issue, you will see it and smell the brake pads if yours is sticking. Easy fix in the end….
please can some help i got a problem with same unit,the preasure from all system does not drops back,so it holds on all 4 wheels is that master cilynder or some valve or what,cozz i change all pistons gummies cilynders on brake calibers,same shit
Had your exact explanation happen to me today, car is now at mechanic and I’m expecting a huge bill. This seems pretty challenging, is there a lot of ways someone could mess this up?
I have a 2010 Prius for reference
Thanks my question is I have 2003 Toyota 4 runner deler ship charged me $4000/00. To pix so please tell me how to refix my old one thank you
With these rigs being so old and high mileage I think it’s worth buying the new parts even if it’s expensive. Great video!
Hey, great video.... Thanks. I really need some help: I replaced the motor and it worked for some days, today I felt that the motor is working more time than usual and I have the beep alarm on the dash, what should I do? Thanks again.
What did you end up doing?
I can see the wire of each carbon brush are in the final part of its stroke, definitavally carbons brush need to be replaced, i dont know if this spare can be finded, thank you for this video
Hello mate, thank you for the Info, I'm in Australia, I have a 2000 toyota prado that has same abs brake set up in this video, all abs traction control ights come on dash when start car and beeps, the pressure tube above makes a weird noise off and on also, I have a small video of it would love for you to give some advice on prob if same as you done.....
Oh and also it seems like brakes are working as per normal?
My accumulator electric motor makes a dreadful squealing noise when the outside temperature is cold in the morning, it runs quiet and works properly during the day. From looking at your breakdown, I’m wondering if the bearing on the shaft is dry? Does this sound right to you? Wonder if the outside tin case can be taken off in situ and a bit of wd40 sprayed on the bearing?
So you've heard this noise? Do you have any dash lights on? My brakes are seized, and almost wrecked because of failure.
I have the EXACT same issue. When it is cold in the morning, you start the '04 GX470 with foot on brake, let off and you hear the pump motor followed by 2 or 3 squeals or "bob-bop-bop" sound and it stops. Drive down the road and at a light it will do it again. After about 3 miles with a few stops along the way it doesn't make the noise. I have no lights on the dash. I found the ENTIRE unit OEM brand new for $1400 so I may just buy it, the new motor refurb'd is $300. Glad I am not the only one this happens to in the cold mornings!
@@AZRubicon1 I was reading on a forum Ih8mud that the noise is the seals on the master cylinder wearing out. The fella sounded like he knew what he was saying. I’ve got a small video of it. I will upload to my channel next week when I get home. All sounds expensive.
@@AZRubicon1 I’ve got a similar noise on my 04 GX470, only on cold mornings I’ll hear the motor go on, then it will make a very short bbbjjjttt noise, but the brakes work great and no lights. I’m nervous it’ll fail one day and I live on a giant hill so I might start investigating. Let us know what you do and if it fixed it. I’m on ‘mud under infinity00
@@seanlittlefair105 see my message to AZRubicon
C1253 issue for why
is this for 2006-2006 gs430?
I removed the entire unit from the car to access the motor/pump. After cleaning and resoldering, the pump runs when direct current is applied. Also put on a new accumulator. Reinstalled the unit back on the car. Now the pump won't run.
With the way the motor components fail and wear out, you can get a situation where the motor works sometimes and not others. If you rotate the armature slightly it might start working, but its not really possible when installed and it will eventually fail at the spot again
C1253 hydro booster pump motor relay, comes on iam replace thepump asdy and only handbrake light not gone
Good.explanation
More videos
My question: is it true we have to use DOT3 brake fluid only? Not DOT4? Because even for 2022 4runners user manual instructs to use DOT3, while 2022 Rav4 manual allows to use DOT3 and DOT4, while all mechanics say "DOT4 is same as DOT3 but better"
Una vez me hice esa pregunta y viví la mala experiencia de dañar una bomba de freno en un auto antiguo que en la tapa decía que usé DOT 3 y yo llevándome de unos mecánicos que decían que es lo mismo pero mejor le puse uno de mayor número. Específicamente DOT 5.1
Lamentablemente me vi en la necesidad de reemplazar todo y colocar DOT 3 en este caso de la marca Motul.
Excelente resultado y buen frenado.
Recomendaciones es poner lo que diga el fabricante y de una marca reconocida o el original.