One of the best parts of this video is at 0:58 when the car comes off the flatbed truck. That is priceless. The next time it comes out of your garage it is diagnosed and fixed if the owner has the funds. Has to make you feel great.
Sandbag1300 Yes it is satisfying. That tow truck driver is Joe- coolest dude ever. My driveway is VERY sloped, he perfectly lines up the cars so they just drop right into the garage so I don't have to figure out how to push them up the hill. Most every other driver will just drop it in the driveway at best. Takes him longer but he gets regular business from me.
You are very thorough you don't jerk around and you diagnosed it right the first time. It is literally a process of elimination fuel, spark or air which is it.
i have been diagnosing engines exactly the same way you do since i was 14 , on top off it i sent myself to college and added a machining degree . I am impressed ,good job!!
You just proved that what my auto shop instructor said was true. "A no start should be the easiest problem to diagnose.", and the hardest, in his opinion ... driveability. Greatly enjoy your videos. The step by step logical path is extremely helpful.
@@SchrodingersBox How about a no electricity problem? any tips? Started as an "intermittent" clicking sound (?possibly coming from a relay/solenoid under dash near fuse box?) and electrical power off/on...(only had it for a few weeks) NOW ... that has just become a "constant" no power at all, ever. (open the door: no dome... Turn lights or hazards, nothing... Turn key nothing ..no power at all... (Except a faint red glow on the little red led near the hazard flasher button, but when keyboard turned goes out) ...and no more clicking either... all grounds tested good, (put jumpercables to bridge anywhere there might have been a weak ground too just to see) new battery, all charged up & good voltage ...but nothing... (automatic transmission)
I would start at the fuse for the circuit and if there is no power at fuse simply trace backwards from there. If there is power at the fuse trace forwards. It’s actually way easier if there is consistently no power. Is much trickier when it’s intermittent.
I love how straight to the point this guy is ! LOVE IT ! No BS, no silly sally dilly dally bs jokes or run around ! Love it !!! This is professionalism at its finest !
I just had a no start this week on my Mazda 3. My fiancé would turn the key and nothing would happen. The cabin light wouldn't dim so I had a feeling that the starter was not getting power. Quick check of the wire lead me to a bad starter. A few taps on the starter with a wrench got it going enough to get it home. Before I even thought about calling the part store I performed the voltage and resistance checks to be 100% that the starter was the issue. Used your technics (minus the power probe, which is on my list by the way) and confirmed the wiring was not the issue. Changed he starter and it's been running great. Thanks for taking the time to make these diagnosis videos! Oh and GO BILLIKENS!!!
You gotta love the armchair mechanics who subscribe to this channel for the express purpose of thumbs-downing the videos as soon as they are released, and yet they still watch the entire video and learn about stuff that they have never done or will do. Just sayin....
Schrodingers Box Why would anyone thumbs down any of your videos? They're all informative, interesting and accurate. It must be someone who manufactures plugs, wires, and coils for a living and they're afraid you're going to cut in to their profits. LOL!!
Very helpful indeed! I often have people asking me, 'how do you know so much about cars?!'...i answer back "I dont." Logical deductions, educated guesses, process of elimination. Air, Fuel, Spark. The only things a typical car needs to run properly. Intermittent, all the time, when did you notice, etc are all basic questions that eliminate almost 90% of what the issues you'll test could be. I get Chiltons for my cars but for the most part just start tearing into things....videos like yours have been my education for years and I've even made plenty of my own 'how-to' threads on forums similar to this... to hell with the haters, they'll never amount to anything car related and if they dog do-it-yourselfers in videos like yours, they're not really the enthusiasts they claim to be! I stumbled across this video researching my 2016 Focus ST (performance stuff), but glad i did. Cheers and keep on doing what you do!
Thanks man. You nailed it- almost every video is the first time I have ever seen a particular car much less the problem with the car. Its the process, not the experience that allows accurate diagnosis.
Had the same problem as this video...and with the same results. VERY well done and informative. Even though I had gone thru most of the checks I still learned quite a bit. thank you.
Like the intro. My number 1 observation for fuel pump failures on identical vehicles is constantly running the vehicle with low fuel level. I only like factory fuel pumps or carter. The rest of the aftermarket pumps are hit and miss. 👍
Steve Rob That's exactly why I am waiting 5 days for the new pump--- it is in lieu of getting an airtex in 2 days, and then repeating this job next year lol
You got me good this time. My wife & I were watching together and as soon as you said 03 Focus no start I looked at my wife and I said fuel pump relay because about 4 years ago we had an 03 focus have the same problem and I diagnosed it back to a fuel pumthe car ran good for a little while but then wound up having a major electrical problem that caused me to have to have the engine completely rewired so I took it to a shop a couple days later it caught fire driving down the interstate that's when I decided to open my shop so things would get fixed properly
i think this guys video is just as important as all the mechanic video,s i watch. so please dont thumbs down mechanics, we are just as important to you as dr,s are to you, everyone sees a dr, and everyone sees a mechanic from time to time so be nice, if you dont think its right or you dont like this guys video you dont have to watch ,,
I find your videos really interesting. I majored in auto mechanics some 20 years ago in high school. I chose to pursue other career interests, but long before that and to this day I still love working on vehicles, and your videos are a different slant on things, and after all these years I am embracing the "high tech" ways of diagnostics and figuring all this new age out. These videos help a lot. Keep up the good work and good luck.
As usual a very good explanation how to make quick diagnose of a no start. And for a German like me your english language pronunciation is proper and clearly understandable. I watch all your vids and have already learned a lot. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the tutorial! That car has a Fuel Pump Module, is a returnless system so the Fuel pump module controls the fuel pump with a PWM signal, that relay you are energizing will not turn the fuel pump on it will only send 12v to the module
Hello and nice work. For safety reasons, I feel that it is important to mention that caution should be used when applying power and ground to a circuit where there may be a likeliness of fuel vapor because of the arcing that takes place when electrical connections are made and broken. I noticed this when you used the Power Probe at the tank. It even appeared there may have been an evap. line or something that was disconnected in that shot. You also mentioned the tank was empty which would make this even more dangerous given the amount of vapor. In a situation like this where making electrical connections is a must, it may be safer to extend jumper wires a safe distance away from the presence of fuel and then making those connections there in order to gain your desired result. Please forgive me if this has been mentioned as I have not read most of the comments posted here, nor am I very familiar with YT usage in general. I am a subscriber to your channel, yet have not had the time to view many videos, but have enjoyed the few that I have seen. Your logic and perspective is a treat to see and I really appreciate how you provide the auto repair consumer with the same. It makes for better communication and understanding when they are in need for professional and courteous automotive maintenance and repair services.
My 07 Ford Focus is going in the shop tomorrow and I hope I have a superb procedure, all steps to check guy, like you are! Mine is intermittent starting.
Great video. Thanks for your time and effort sharing your knowledge. You got what it takes to be a good teacher on this matter. Super, this will help me get my 1999 Suburban up and running again. Stopped working while it was parked with no so much use. A couple of more test but more than likely it is the pump. Although I can hear the noise when it energizes. I changed the Cam and Crankshaft sensors alerady... We'll see. Thanks.
Thanks sir. I followed your progress and found out that the wiring inside the sending unit was open after I was convinced that the pump was bad. So the best thing is put all possibilities up front . Thanks again!
Had this before on a focus. ....dodgy connector on the fuel pump...they even changed the pump but neglected the broken connector which would works loose in a couple days... Nice channel and diagnostic routine...subbed.
Matt, the no crank, no starts are the best. Your viewers get to learn real direction so they won't make the incredible mistakes that neighbor did and waste a lot of that woman's hard earned cash! Great vid and congratulations on the 20,000 subs! Sweet!
Hey Matt, just thought I would drop a line and tell you you are doing some great no BS Videos. You are doing a great service for us folks. THANKS ALOT BROTHER! keep up the good work!
im a good mechanic i have a page on facebook and i get lots of bussiness as a mobile mechanic. i sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and the car started just fine ran a few minutes and died im going to check the fuel pump by taking off the fuel filter underneath the car and then turn on the key if the gas dont come out of the fuel tank then its the fuel pump. but of course ill check all the fuses before replacing the pump. after i check the electrical if the pump dont work ill change it out and that should fix the car. 2003 ford focus also has a starter relay fuse in the box next to the battery and if you change it out it could also fix the problem. but im sure its the fuel pump because the car was being driven and it just died. it starts with starting fliud so that tells me its the fuel pump. blevins auto repair on face book alturas ca
Great fast clean diagnosis. Puzzled by the 17 thumbs down - I couldn't see anything wrong with your explanations and methods at all Matt. As the saying goes "you can't help some people"
+mrghiax Exactly. Many of the thumbs down are from "over the hill" professional mechanics that realized their vacuum gauge and dwell meter are useless in today's world and the fact a DIY can work on computer controlled vehicles frustrates them. I see it all the time. Others just thumbs down because the video is longer than 3 minutes. And others, believe it or not, are just trolls that actually subscribe to my channel and thumbs down the instant I make a new release despite the fact they watch and learn from the entire video!
Great video! Couple of Questions if thats ok? 1. Did you only check for spark on 1x plug? 2. That spark plug tester light would show spark in the leads.. can the plug itself still be bad? 3. Can I use my 12v car battery, connect to the Fuel pump directly to see if it powers on? 4. I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6. Where's the best place to find what replacement model/serial etc.. pump I need ? Thanks :)
ARE YOU A TEACHER OR INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR COMMUNITY COLLEGE? CERTAINLY YOU SHOULD BE A GOOD ONE. YOUR VERBIAGE AND EXPLANATIONS ARE RIGHT ON POINT. EXCELLENT VIDEO.
You have a lot of knowledge mate. I’m a qualified automotive technician and you have a lot more knowledge than most that I’ve worked for or with!. Keep up the great work mate🍻
Thank you...i have a 2002 ford focus....cranks wont start. Changed fuel filter, spark plugs....im gonna do the starting fluid test today....awesome video keep it up
Great job well done step by step process for someone who say that he not a auto mechanic by profession did a fan good job ,I having the same came car problem but after watching this I comfortable I can fix this problem You get a five star rating
"If you're anything like me - and my apologies if you are...". I nearly jettisoned my English tea over my English monitor... Great work Matt, I can lose a lot of time on this channel. Time well-lost in my view.
I"m having a no crank/no start problem but there is a fast ticking sound (from the starter). My problem is highly likely to be the battery and I'm waiting for a boost (my car had the windows open last night and it rained so a short somewhere probably drained my battery). In the meantime, I watched this video and I am so impressed with your skills not only with the mechanics but your ability to explain in common language. I would heed your warning and never touch the relays but I am learning about the general functioning of the engine. Thank you so much for your videos and I will subscribe and I've learned so much already.
Private Netizen Your possibilities for that situation are bad relay, bad battery, bad starter/solenoid or voltage drop at the starter. I have videos on all of these so solving your problem is assured.
Another great video! If i have a crank no start at work with no sounding fuel pump prime (vehicle dependent), my go to tools are usually a dead blow and a test light lol
dreamer2355 Nothing wrong this the dead blow test! But is it bad fuel pump or are you shaking up a loose ground to the frame? Still need to directly test the pump to be 100%
Fantastic video. Full of information in a short amount of time. I didn't have to fast forward through any of it. Now I gotta check an old car, 1989 Mercury Tracer with 401,000 miles on it, for a no spark. Just totally died while driving it. I need to see if you have a video on that. I purchased a new distributor & coil because they are a few days out once ordered. I need to diagnose before installing them.
Superb! Inertia fuel cut-off is another 'quick check' (for me). When I crank I check for a slight movement on the tacho - to 'quickly' verify the crank position sensor.
Loved the diag. My grandson has a symbol problem. When you turn the key to crank the vehicle, it won't stop cranking, you have to physically turn the key off. ???
I will never forget watching a video on UA-cam of some guy ripping the back seat out of a Focus like that one and taking a sawzall to the floor pan, while saying "There's supposed to be an access hole here," thinking that the shape of the indentation was them forgetting to cut the hole... Another awesome diagnosis! Quick, efficient, and methodical; exactly what I like to see! Amazed that the parts store gave you the wrong pump, though. Wonder what the deal was with that...
Lol Sawzall to the floor pan?? Gotta see that one lol. Yeah the pump turns out that the wagon (this car) has a slightly different style than the other models. Parts store computer didn't have that info so ended up with wrong part. I'm actually not even 100% sure the one on the way is correct in fact!
Schrodingers Box Oh geeze, I hate that! Good luck man, and keep us posted! I must say, that has to be the most adorable, tiny little fuel tank I've ever seen come out of a car... LOL
Good job. I was expecting spark. My Focus had an ignition control short to ground. The control line rubbed through insulation on egr tube and, of course, pulled down circuit and fried the coil. The coil had a big crack in its bottom. Thanks for posting.
I love you man , straight and to the point and very well understood , we both think along the same level but you got me beat on some things , love your vids and i watch hous of them , god bless you and keep going
Tim Westminster ALL people with critical thinking skills think the "same". The difference really becomes knowledge, not thinking strategy. This channel is designed to give people such as yourself the knowledge to "plug into" your already existing critical thinking strategy so you can cover all the bases.
Been a mechanic for 30 years ticket and never saw any domestic car not key on engine of pressurize the fuel system that diagnosis should have been first for a no start all the other tests are unnessasary once you don't hear the fuel pump
Matt, I bought a new Focus the first year they came out and in the next two years had Ford replace the fuel pump five times. Kind of like the Takada air bag story. Love your chanel. Dave
I have a 2000 Ford F150 that I've run out of ideas, trying to fix a no start situation. The symptoms are classic of a fuel pressure problem. Once I spray starter fluid in the throttle, it cranks and will crank fine until it sits again for 12 or more hours, and not always will the problem occur, but the cold seems to increase the likeliehood. I have used a scan tool and a multimeter, among other tools to rule out the MAF, the IAT, the TPMS. I've ruled out the PCV. I've replaced the Fuel Pump. The Fuel pressue regulator, fuel filter, checked pressure. looked for vaccuum leaks. I recently took all the fuel injectors out, and thought I found the problem, when one of them wouldn't hold air pressure from an air pump. I replaced all the injectors. Same problem. I'm about ready to rig a can of starter fluid with a servo that squeezes the trigger, to a toggle switch in the cabin, and put it in the inlet hose. Can any one suggest something other than everything I've looked at?
I was getting low fuel pressure, when I measured at the shrader valve (about 30 psi), which is low according to the spec. (28 - 45 psi), and after ruling out the fuel pressure regulator, and fuel filter, or any visible kinks, or blockages in the fuel line, and lots of testimonys on the internet, I concluded it needed a fuel pump. After replacing the pump, the pressure level with the gauge didn't improve at all. When I finally put the fuel injectors in, the pressure actually improved about 5 psi. When this happens, and I monitor the live data, the Short Term fuel trims, on both banks are around 85-95%, and the MAF, IAT, O2, all report, what I would expect, but it's like the Short term fuel trims are maxxing out, trying to provide enough fuel. I'll go back, and see what I may have missed.
you right I follow your channel and you help me a lot. I do mechanic most are my cars or family and friends, you should have millions of subscribers you teach really good I just replace fuel pump of my dodge 2500 v10 thank you for all your teaching
Thanks for you great work in this car and your very good explanations in all the process..just simple and usefull!!!...greetings from Guatemala City!!!
Great Video ! I did until the part, from Carburator Starts and the 15 Amp fuse, now i see there more thing to test...but I dont know have that tool. Can a Gas Pump during the night broken or be a Filter completeky stucked? Because Focus mk1 reached home with no issues, next day no more gas intake to the Carb...
The new video opening is great. I do not use my dewalt electric impact driver when I am around open gasoline vapors. Use it in a dark room and watch the sparks that tool puts out. Saw the tool in a few of your camera shots.
nice vid, enjoy the clarity. Wish all on call outs and garages followed this 101 procedure. I usually teach my apprentices and staff to give the tank a few wacks while ign on or someone cranking,often pump will actuate and verify quickly a fuel pump fault. (of cause ensuring brake on and out of gear or in park!)
Excellent video! That is how it's done. Bravo. I can't think of 1 thing that you didn't properly cover along the way in your diagnosis other than explaining why you MUST test for fuel pressure and not just flow. RealFixesRealFast has a great video on that called "Don't Let Fuel Volume Fool You". Turns out that was exactly what was wrong with my pump too (split in the rubber hose). I'll never forget that lesson now.
Great video! I don't understand the mindset of the "98 percenters" who just shoot the messenger. I just fixed my sisters vehicle with a low temp code which turned out to be a stuck open thermostat. But what was the first thing I noticed? Right. A brand new temp sensor. I suppose that if a neighbor came to a "98 percenters" front door and said "hey man, your car is on fire", he would turn the garden hose on him. Keep up the good work.
Rob Mut I agree- I don't understand the mindset either. I mean I know not everyone has a strong knowledge of cars and systems, etc- but even then, you know when you are just guessing instead of either letting a pro do it or at least trying to do enough research to learn how to test if you guess is accurate. If I am unfamiliar with a system I learn about it first, it seems so obvious to me at least that there is no other way. I don't get it.
Yes correct. But when I saw zero from the scan tool I wasn't convinced because my scan tool very often shows PIDs that I cant actually read with it. Indeed when i fixed it, the scantool did show the correct pressure.
~15:00 Another thing to consider with 'painful' jobs like that,If you're going through the trouble to drop the tank and test the fuel pump,it might be worth it to just put a new one in anyways,while you're at it. I hate doing PITA jobs twice. Might prevent future issues,and swearing. An example,took a car in for a trans rebuild..had them replace the lower motor mount,and rear main seal while they were at it. They already had it all apart,and everything was right there,easy to do. No point in paying for the same labor again,3 months down the line.
Well Matt years ago I diagnosed my 78 Celica with bad fuel pump ..put in new one ..but then though Hey let me bench test the old one.. it shot fuel 12 feet ..so it was my wiring I ran a wire to a switch ..bing anti theft switch/ fuel kill ..so yes the wires do go bad :)
deepsquat600 Yes my very first video I did had burned up wiring to the pump itself inside the tank- so technically a wiring problem but since it was inside the tank it's best to replace the pump anyway. MOST pumps I replaced had this condition in fact- it wasn't technically the pump itself, but actually voltage drop from inside the tank itself
Nice video, i would like you if you can make a video tutorial when you apply voltage at the relay box to the fuel pump. I was confused in the relay box part when you applied voltage with the power probe, because some people fried the PCM
Interesting video. I wish when you are filming and using your Power Probe we could see the indicator lights. When you were using the Power Probe in the PDC (power distribution center) at the terminals for the fuel pump relay, I did not see a green light prior to your application of power to the fuel pump. This indicates to me (i.e., no green light) that their is an open in the fuel pump. Same thing with testing on the bench; when hooking up the Power Probe to the old fuel pump, with ground lead attached to the fuel pump, and prior to applying power, there should be a green indicator light. Finally, when diagnosing a fuel pump many times (from a limited tool standpoint) a test I and many technicians/mechanics employ is banging on the gas tank with a rubber mallet (to free up a frozen fuel pump).
johnwrench4speed Yeah I agree- I noticed in editing that my finger was blocking the green light indicator on the probe, I didn't really notice the camera angle at the time because I was so focused on making sure I was sending voltage to the right place- I'll watch that next time. I actually did try the "percussive technology" technique but didn't film it because it isn't really a test consistent with the theme of the channel since it does not necessitate the pump is bad- it could also just be shaking the wiring or ground so still necessary to test the pump directly to be 100%.
To cheack the wiring intergrity from the fuse box could you put your test pen to positive battery and then to the load side of relay pin 87 and if you see it light it means the wiring is good from connector 87 to the pump windings and back out to pump ground chassis ?
Im 64 and have been wrenching since I was 16...I also approach no starts the same way...The are 3 factors involved always...Fuel, spark and compression... if all 3 are there ,you Will get a start or at least it will Attempt to run.. if any of those 3 fundamentals are absent, its a no go.
friend of a friend has a 1998 F150 that cranks but will not start, has had several "mechanics" look at it and they can't figure it out, I live 50 miles away so was kind of helping by text. They said it had spark, has pressure at fuel rail, could not start it with starter fluid, two weeks ago they changed both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, still wouldn't start. I was finally able to go down and look at it, within 10 minutes had it narrowed down to fuel ( I was able to get it to run with starter fluid, not sure why they couldn't), there is 40 psi pressure at fuel rail so do not think it is the pump or the filter. Don't think it's a fuse issue because near as i can tell from diagrams and online the fuel pump fuse also controls the injectors and pump seems to be working. Did not have time to check for pulse at fuel injectors. When I pulled the intake tube off the throttle body the throttle body and plate is pretty dirty so wondering if there is a TPS issue but it's not showing any codes. Looks like injectors are not firing but need to dig a little deeper. Any ideas or suggestions ? Scanner shows rpm's so crank sensor seems to be working and I'm assuming cam sensor is to, both are brand new.
Wish you were in Pinetop, AZ area, because I would hire you. My car cranks, but has no power going to the fuel pump. The fuel relay appears to be good. Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body and car temporarily starts up, so I got spark. Checked inertia switch. 2005 Jaguar Stype v6.
+Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix Thank you for your response. I am a learning armature, so forgive me if I am not certain that my car has a 'fuel relay port". Perhaps on my vehicle it is called something else? I googled it and came up empty. Also, what do you mean by "for an open to the fuel pump". You mean a short in the wiring?
+Harley Rider Yeah honestly you'll probably need someone with electrical experience to track this down but basically if you re-watch my video look at where I am doing the DVOM testing at the fuel pump relay port in the engine bay. Thats your next step and I show how to do it in the video.
Good job as always Matt. I have a suggestion though that will save you some time in the accuracy of the diagnostic. When you unplugged the relay for the Fuel pump you should have found a way to tap off of the contact and coil side of the relay with it still plugged in. I know you put power at 87 and the pump didn't work, but you didn't get a true Voltage drop for pin 30 and 85 and 86 on the coil side. So if you had a problem on the feed side or coil side of the relay circuits you wouldn't see it because you are checking the wires with the relay unplugged. So if it was a problem on either of these two circuits at the relay base, you just pulled the tank down for nothing and wasted your time. Hope you don't take this the wrong way, just observing and trying to help. Been wrenching 18 years and have been around the block a bit, including getting my butt kicked on different problems, and learning from my mistakes. However I try my best to share my knowledge so other people don't have to make the same mistakes I did, and hopefully it will save them some time and frustrstion. Like what you have done with the channel, looks great dude.
What Juergen said. the power probe has a green indicator light when it makes contact, so I know for a fact I sent 12V towards the pump from the relay box. The fact the pump didn't run means relay box is eliminated- the problem is downstream of that. The decision to drop the tank was because it was such an easy design. if I had to remove exhaust or whatnot, I would have gone to inertia switch and tested from there.
I understand that the pump did not turn on when he put power to the contact output. And I am in agreement with his thought process, it's just in the past I have encountered multiple problems with circuits and you need to Volt drop check all circuits involved that make a component work, that was my point. Another thing you could do to the relay if possible is take off the relay cover and see if it clicks when you crank the Engine over then look at the contact side output Voltage and make sure this isn't much drop between the contacts with a Voltmeter and with the relay plugged in. Of course you might not see very much drop at all in this case on the relay contacts because the pump is open, so no current flow, no Voltage drop. Unless the relay had extremely bad or corroded contacts.
Schrodingers Box I understand perfectly Matt, you were spot on there, it's just like I said in a previous post I have encountered multiple circuit problems before and you need to verify all circuits involved by doing a Voltage drop test with the relay plugged in. That way you know the contact supply wire is good and that the coil control power and ground is good. That way when you finish the job you know all circuits involved are good.
Had the pump started when I sent 12V to it, I would absolutely have been voltage drop testing those contacts. In actuality there wasn't even a need to verify the relay box at all if you think about it- I only did that because I was already there and wanted to promote my relay video lol.
I like your videos and have learned a lot from them, especially about the approach/methodology of repairs.. but I think this video is mistitled. The description says "No Crank No Start".. yet the engine is cranking, it just wasn't starting (until you fixed it in like 2 minutes! Awesome!) I found your FASTTEC series and think I'll find more answers there. If you change the title, I'll give a thumbs-up! I haven't given anything but a view so far. :)
At 2:10, the battery makes a click-click-click sound because it's lacking charge. After charging at 2:46, the engine cranks but doesn't start. At :22 you mention that it's not starting and not cranking. I was confused because if it is *no crank*, it is not shown in the video. Also, in the title it's "Cranking No Start" and in the description it's No Crank-No Start. I don't expect your videos to be perfectly labeled, maybe if I had my own productive channel, I would :P Basically I want your channel to be as useful and understandable as possible in all aspects. Is there something that I'm not understanding? More likely I just wish the whole thing was even simpler than you explain it to be! Didn't learn much mechanical growing up, just trying to understand the components and how they work together, well enough that I can repair my car. Watching the 3rd FASTTEC video gave me confidence to repair it myself. I have all my tools together, all set for Monday to diagnose. If I do need a starter or fuel pump, where would you recommend purchasing one? It's a 2003 Chevy S10 V6. Thanks Matt!
(If you're willing to give some quick advice on where to start, here's what's happened with the truck: 2 week ago: it would Crank No Start, after 1/2 minute it'd sputter to a start.. only happened once or twice 1 week ago: No Crank No Start, started after cable-jump 3 days ago: Tested battery @ Autozone. Tested Healthy/Good 2 days ago: No Crank No Start, lights working BRIGHTLY, started it 45 min earlier just fine (no hiccups). So I think that the starter was working but slowly died, given that it would start sometimes, sometimes not*. I believe that's the starter's job. Either that or corrosion/voltage drop. What do you think? Thanks again *I started it multiple times the past 2 weeks with only the 3 incidents I described. All other times, A-OK.
I don't own a car (don't need one) and pretty sure that I don't even own a screwdriver (okay, I don't) but for some bizzarro-world reason just totally fascinated with your car problem diagnosis. Just amazing. So, ever worked on 90's Jags?
Just saw this comment. That's cool you watch even though you have no car lol. Based on your screen name I'd say you probably just have appreciation for my scientific approach which is really the point of these videos anyway. Sorry I missed your great comment until now!
When you found out your video content was running on other channels was youtube prompt in removing it? The reason why I ask is because like you my channel is growing and I've seen many lone website embed my service videos in webpages and cannot tell if this is streaming off my channel or not. I brand all my video with my logo. Any more info on this would help . Thankyou
***** Jack of all trades, right? Yes I remember seeing your channel- best intro ever! The answer is it took about 3 weeks after submitting my complaints but indeed the violating channels were shut down. As far as embedded videos- you are credited for those (as long as the embedding is sourced from your channel) and, in fact, it's a great way for your channel to get advertised.
Schrodingers Box I hope I can achieve half the success you have. I think your channel is great and love watching you test things instead of replace parts. I've learned so much from you and your videos. Also like your humor... The software I use is adobe premier pro and paintshop pro for the image edits. I use a wireless logitec mic headset and tech camtasia recorder for the computer stuff. Have a canon t3I for camera one and a sony camcorder for camera 2. To get my color balance correct I use a passport color checker. The passport is a really good tool in post production to get correct white balance. You have any questions on video production I will be glad to help you out.
Hey I had that Dodge Charger that had crank and no start and found out that the timing pulley had broke and the ball bearings went down and stopped the crank from moving and just wanted to say thank you for talking me thru that. Month later I had to replace alternator bc it started whining bad and replaced and no problems. But a week later my battery light comes on and off. Some days my heated seats won’t stay on, other days my windows won’t work, and lastly my brake lights that usually blink when I go to unlock my car won’t work. What should I look for or start at?
Good looking out on the flat rate comment. One test you could’ve done that’s real quick is to put a fuse loop on the fuel pump fuse and see if you have amp draw consistent with a pump B- if you have a scope, really see what is happening at the pump Awesome job confirming though. I wish there was time to be that thorough all the time. I would be called the pump w/ an amp test on a scope and then confirm the fix
One of the best parts of this video is at 0:58 when the car comes off the flatbed truck. That is priceless. The next time it comes out of your garage it is diagnosed and fixed if the owner has the funds. Has to make you feel great.
Sandbag1300 Yes it is satisfying. That tow truck driver is Joe- coolest dude ever. My driveway is VERY sloped, he perfectly lines up the cars so they just drop right into the garage so I don't have to figure out how to push them up the hill. Most every other driver will just drop it in the driveway at best. Takes him longer but he gets regular business from me.
You are very thorough you don't jerk around and you diagnosed it right the first time. It is literally a process of elimination fuel, spark or air which is it.
this guys channel and yours are some of the best on youtube, been subbed to you both for over a year
i have been diagnosing engines exactly the same way you do since i was 14 , on top off it i sent myself to college and added a machining degree . I am impressed ,good job!!
You sent yourself to college.
I hope you are both ok.
You just proved that what my auto shop instructor said was true. "A no start should be the easiest problem to diagnose.", and the hardest, in his opinion ... driveability. Greatly enjoy your videos. The step by step logical path is extremely helpful.
+pramponi I agree with your instructor very much!!
@@SchrodingersBox
How about a no electricity problem?
any tips?
Started as an "intermittent" clicking sound (?possibly coming from a relay/solenoid under dash near fuse box?) and electrical power off/on...(only had it for a few weeks)
NOW ... that has just become a "constant" no power at all, ever.
(open the door: no dome...
Turn lights or hazards, nothing...
Turn key nothing ..no power at all...
(Except a faint red glow on the little red led near the hazard flasher button, but when keyboard turned goes out)
...and no more clicking either...
all grounds tested good, (put jumpercables to bridge anywhere there might have been a weak ground too just to see)
new battery, all charged up & good voltage ...but nothing...
(automatic transmission)
I would start at the fuse for the circuit and if there is no power at fuse simply trace backwards from there. If there is power at the fuse trace forwards. It’s actually way easier if there is consistently no power. Is much trickier when it’s intermittent.
I love how straight to the point this guy is ! LOVE IT ! No BS, no silly sally dilly dally bs jokes or run around ! Love it !!! This is professionalism at its finest !
Migizzl Empires what does fuel at the rail mean?
Great stuffs
@@paulturner6498 fuel inside of fuel rail
I just had a no start this week on my Mazda 3. My fiancé would turn the key and nothing would happen. The cabin light wouldn't dim so I had a feeling that the starter was not getting power. Quick check of the wire lead me to a bad starter. A few taps on the starter with a wrench got it going enough to get it home. Before I even thought about calling the part store I performed the voltage and resistance checks to be 100% that the starter was the issue. Used your technics (minus the power probe, which is on my list by the way) and confirmed the wiring was not the issue. Changed he starter and it's been running great. Thanks for taking the time to make these diagnosis videos! Oh and GO BILLIKENS!!!
arcdraw That's exactly how I would have done it!
That's great to hear. I'm on my way to being in the 2%!
arcdraw Nope that is "has joined" to the 2%. You have arrived with DVOM in hand and for some reason a brown cardboard box?
Agreed with Mike! people don't properly diagnose things by accident. They may guess right, but not diagnose right. You clearly "get it" arcdraw!!
Thanks for the worm welcome, guys!
You gotta love the armchair mechanics who subscribe to this channel for the express purpose of thumbs-downing the videos as soon as they are released, and yet they still watch the entire video and learn about stuff that they have never done or will do.
Just sayin....
Schrodingers Box I know 1 person that would certainly do that for every one of your videos, not gonna name any names. :P
***** Hahahaha.... He's not a sub though!
Schrodingers Box He's on mine. I don't continually call him out though. ;)
***** It's no one subscribed to this channel that's all anyone needs to know.
Schrodingers Box Why would anyone thumbs down any of your videos? They're all informative, interesting and accurate. It must be someone who manufactures plugs, wires, and coils for a living and they're afraid you're going to cut in to their profits. LOL!!
Very helpful indeed!
I often have people asking me, 'how do you know so much about cars?!'...i answer back "I dont."
Logical deductions, educated guesses, process of elimination. Air, Fuel, Spark. The only things a typical car needs to run properly. Intermittent, all the time, when did you notice, etc are all basic questions that eliminate almost 90% of what the issues you'll test could be.
I get Chiltons for my cars but for the most part just start tearing into things....videos like yours have been my education for years and I've even made plenty of my own 'how-to' threads on forums similar to this... to hell with the haters, they'll never amount to anything car related and if they dog do-it-yourselfers in videos like yours, they're not really the enthusiasts they claim to be!
I stumbled across this video researching my 2016 Focus ST (performance stuff), but glad i did. Cheers and keep on doing what you do!
Thanks man. You nailed it- almost every video is the first time I have ever seen a particular car much less the problem with the car. Its the process, not the experience that allows accurate diagnosis.
Had the same problem as this video...and with the same results. VERY well done and informative. Even though I had gone thru most of the checks I still learned quite a bit. thank you.
Like the intro. My number 1 observation for fuel pump failures on identical vehicles is constantly running the vehicle with low fuel level. I only like factory fuel pumps or carter. The rest of the aftermarket pumps are hit and miss. 👍
Steve Rob That's exactly why I am waiting 5 days for the new pump--- it is in lieu of getting an airtex in 2 days, and then repeating this job next year lol
Schrodingers Box Sad, airtex used to make great pumps.
Derrick Hodges I always had good experiences with airtex,but I haven’t bought one in a decade. I wonder how Bosch is nowadays.
You got me good this time. My wife & I were watching together and as soon as you said 03 Focus no start I looked at my wife and I said fuel pump relay because about 4 years ago we had an 03 focus have the same problem and I diagnosed it back to a fuel pumthe car ran good for a little while but then wound up having a major electrical problem that caused me to have to have the engine completely rewired so I took it to a shop a couple days later it caught fire driving down the interstate that's when I decided to open my shop so things would get fixed properly
i think this guys video is just as important as all the mechanic video,s i watch. so please dont thumbs down mechanics, we are just as important to you as dr,s are to you, everyone sees a dr, and everyone sees a mechanic from time to time so be nice, if you dont think its right or you dont like this guys video you dont have to watch ,,
I find your videos really interesting. I majored in auto mechanics some 20 years ago in high school. I chose to pursue other career interests, but long before that and to this day I still love working on vehicles, and your videos are a different slant on things, and after all these years I am embracing the "high tech" ways of diagnostics and figuring all this new age out. These videos help a lot. Keep up the good work and good luck.
As usual a very good explanation how to make quick diagnose of a no start. And for a German like me your english language pronunciation is proper and clearly understandable. I watch all your vids and have already learned a lot. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much! I do get a lot of compliments from foreigners on my english!
Thank you for the tutorial! That car has a Fuel Pump Module, is a returnless system so the Fuel pump module controls the fuel pump with a PWM signal, that relay you are energizing will not turn the fuel pump on it will only send 12v to the module
Fantastic video. It covers all eventualities, right up to the diagnosis. Best channel on UA-cam for learning about how it's really done.
Hello and nice work.
For safety reasons, I feel that it is important to mention that caution should be used when applying power and ground to a circuit where there may be a likeliness of fuel vapor because of the arcing that takes place when electrical connections are made and broken. I noticed this when you used the Power Probe at the tank. It even appeared there may have been an evap. line or something that was disconnected in that shot. You also mentioned the tank was empty which would make this even more dangerous given the amount of vapor.
In a situation like this where making electrical connections is a must, it may be safer to extend jumper wires a safe distance away from the presence of fuel and then making those connections there in order to gain your desired result.
Please forgive me if this has been mentioned as I have not read most of the comments posted here, nor am I very familiar with YT usage in general.
I am a subscriber to your channel, yet have not had the time to view many videos, but have enjoyed the few that I have seen. Your logic and perspective is a treat to see and I really appreciate how you provide the auto repair consumer with the same. It makes for better communication and understanding when they are in need for professional and courteous automotive maintenance and repair services.
My 07 Ford Focus is going in the shop tomorrow and I hope I have a superb procedure, all steps to check guy, like you are! Mine is intermittent starting.
Great video. Thanks for your time and effort sharing your knowledge. You got what it takes to be a good teacher on this matter. Super, this will help me get my 1999 Suburban up and running again. Stopped working while it was parked with no so much use. A couple of more test but more than likely it is the pump. Although I can hear the noise when it energizes. I changed the Cam and Crankshaft sensors alerady... We'll see. Thanks.
Dude, you are an absolute badass at diagnostics and you make it understandable as well.
thank you. My hope is exactly that- to make it so anyone can do it. And they can!!
just WANTED TO SAY THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO . i was able to get my girls car home last night after watching your video.
Thanks sir.
I followed your progress and found out that the wiring inside the sending unit was open after I was convinced that the pump was bad. So the best thing is put all possibilities up front .
Thanks again!
Realtime diagnosis was awesome, hope you do these more often-
Had this before on a focus. ....dodgy connector on the fuel pump...they even changed the pump but neglected the broken connector which would works loose in a couple days...
Nice channel and diagnostic routine...subbed.
Excellent thorough diagnosis from one perfectionist to another
Ozzstar Can't argue with that!
Matt, the no crank, no starts are the best. Your viewers get to learn real direction so they won't make the incredible mistakes that neighbor did and waste a lot of that woman's hard earned cash! Great vid and congratulations on the 20,000 subs! Sweet!
Billy R Thanks Billy! I agree- no starts are the most fun- take a break from the scantool!!
Great process! just curious, can you swap the fuel pump motor, use the old casing with the right slot pattern?
Yes
Hey Matt, just thought I would drop a line and tell you you are doing some great no BS Videos. You are doing a great service for us folks. THANKS ALOT BROTHER! keep up the good work!
Thanks for the heads up man! I'll keep on truckin!!
im a good mechanic i have a page on facebook and i get lots of bussiness as a mobile mechanic. i sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and the car started just fine ran a few minutes and died im going to check the fuel pump by taking off the fuel filter underneath the car and then turn on the key if the gas dont come out of the fuel tank then its the fuel pump. but of course ill check all the fuses before replacing the pump. after i check the electrical if the pump dont work ill change it out and that should fix the car. 2003 ford focus also has a starter relay fuse in the box next to the battery and if you change it out it could also fix the problem. but im sure its the fuel pump because the car was being driven and it just died. it starts with starting fliud so that tells me its the fuel pump. blevins auto repair on face book alturas ca
+James Blevins If fuel comes out at the filter how do you its at the right pressure?
+Schrodingers Box . i would use a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel bleeder on the fuel rail
Great fast clean diagnosis. Puzzled by the 17 thumbs down - I couldn't see anything wrong with your explanations and methods at all Matt. As the saying goes "you can't help some people"
+mrghiax Exactly. Many of the thumbs down are from "over the hill" professional mechanics that realized their vacuum gauge and dwell meter are useless in today's world and the fact a DIY can work on computer controlled vehicles frustrates them.
I see it all the time.
Others just thumbs down because the video is longer than 3 minutes.
And others, believe it or not, are just trolls that actually subscribe to my channel and thumbs down the instant I make a new release despite the fact they watch and learn from the entire video!
Great video! Couple of Questions if thats ok?
1. Did you only check for spark on 1x plug?
2. That spark plug tester light would show spark in the leads.. can the plug itself still be bad?
3. Can I use my 12v car battery, connect to the Fuel pump directly to see if it powers on?
4. I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6. Where's the best place to find what replacement model/serial etc.. pump I need ?
Thanks :)
Really ,thank you for your extra work! I hope your channel will rise up!
Please get a power probe i dont know how i managed without it.
ARE YOU A TEACHER OR INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR COMMUNITY COLLEGE? CERTAINLY YOU SHOULD BE A GOOD ONE. YOUR VERBIAGE AND EXPLANATIONS ARE RIGHT ON POINT. EXCELLENT VIDEO.
Great job you are an amazing teacher
You have a lot of knowledge mate. I’m a qualified automotive technician and you have a lot more knowledge than most that I’ve worked for or with!. Keep up the great work mate🍻
Much appreciated!
Thank you...i have a 2002 ford focus....cranks wont start.
Changed fuel filter, spark plugs....im gonna do the starting fluid test today....awesome video keep it up
very informative the way you conduct your work ,not to much talk but a lot of information.
Hi, just watched your video.Fantastic.Your fault diagnosis covers all the possibilities. Better than any manual.Keep those movies comin. Thanks.
Great job well done step by step process for someone who say that he not a auto mechanic by profession did a fan good job ,I having the same came car problem but after watching this I comfortable I can fix this problem You get a five star rating
Thank you!!!
"If you're anything like me - and my apologies if you are...". I nearly jettisoned my English tea over my English monitor... Great work Matt, I can lose a lot of time on this channel. Time well-lost in my view.
I loved your full in-depth video
I"m having a no crank/no start problem but there is a fast ticking sound (from the starter). My problem is highly likely to be the battery and I'm waiting for a boost (my car had the windows open last night and it rained so a short somewhere probably drained my battery). In the meantime, I watched this video and I am so impressed with your skills not only with the mechanics but your ability to explain in common language. I would heed your warning and never touch the relays but I am learning about the general functioning of the engine. Thank you so much for your videos and I will subscribe and I've learned so much already.
Private Netizen Your possibilities for that situation are bad relay, bad battery, bad starter/solenoid or voltage drop at the starter. I have videos on all of these so solving your problem is assured.
Another great video!
If i have a crank no start at work with no sounding fuel pump prime (vehicle dependent), my go to tools are usually a dead blow and a test light lol
dreamer2355 Nothing wrong this the dead blow test! But is it bad fuel pump or are you shaking up a loose ground to the frame? Still need to directly test the pump to be 100%
Absolutely! But if it starts, it makes it easier pulling it into the bay!
Tell me you a Car Genius without telling me you a Car Genius....👍👍
Fantastic video. Full of information in a short amount of time. I didn't have to fast forward through any of it.
Now I gotta check an old car, 1989 Mercury Tracer with 401,000 miles on it, for a no spark. Just totally died while driving it. I need to see if you have a video on that. I purchased a new distributor & coil because they are a few days out once ordered. I need to diagnose before installing them.
Superb! Inertia fuel cut-off is another 'quick check' (for me). When I crank I check for a slight movement on the tacho - to 'quickly' verify the crank position sensor.
Another logical diagnosis to a problem. Awesome job, Matt.
wysetech2000 It's the only way to go, eh!
Schrodingers Box As a Canadian, I would say that's right eh! {:-)
wysetech2000 Or would you say it's "aboot right"
Well, maybe some of us.
You are awesome man! I really like your videos because you cover everything fluidly. Alot of guys leave things out. I'm subscribed as of now
Loved the diag. My grandson has a symbol problem. When you turn the key to crank the vehicle, it won't stop cranking, you have to physically turn the key off. ???
I will never forget watching a video on UA-cam of some guy ripping the back seat out of a Focus like that one and taking a sawzall to the floor pan, while saying "There's supposed to be an access hole here," thinking that the shape of the indentation was them forgetting to cut the hole...
Another awesome diagnosis! Quick, efficient, and methodical; exactly what I like to see! Amazed that the parts store gave you the wrong pump, though. Wonder what the deal was with that...
Lol Sawzall to the floor pan?? Gotta see that one lol.
Yeah the pump turns out that the wagon (this car) has a slightly different style than the other models. Parts store computer didn't have that info so ended up with wrong part. I'm actually not even 100% sure the one on the way is correct in fact!
Schrodingers Box Oh geeze, I hate that! Good luck man, and keep us posted!
I must say, that has to be the most adorable, tiny little fuel tank I've ever seen come out of a car... LOL
Good job.
I was expecting spark. My Focus had an ignition control short to ground. The control line rubbed through insulation on egr tube and, of course, pulled down circuit and fried the coil. The coil had a big crack in its bottom.
Thanks for posting.
informative , direct , and clear diagnosis , Greeting from Saudi Arabia
Very thorough and clear explanation with high quality video
this one is actually one of my favorite videos and fasttec video. you're good for a diy.
I love you man , straight and to the point and very well understood , we both think along the same level but you got me beat on some things , love your vids and i watch hous of them , god bless you and keep going
Tim Westminster ALL people with critical thinking skills think the "same". The difference really becomes knowledge, not thinking strategy. This channel is designed to give people such as yourself the knowledge to "plug into" your already existing critical thinking strategy so you can cover all the bases.
Thanks for the video . It is a sound algorithm but for me I can't tell if there's a good compression or not because I am a biginner
Great video very clear and con cise. Right to the point no B/S, my kind directions with a no nonsense tone. Outstanding. Thank you.
Been a mechanic for 30 years ticket and never saw any domestic car not key on engine of pressurize the fuel system that diagnosis should have been first for a no start all the other tests are unnessasary once you don't hear the fuel pump
Matt, I bought a new Focus the first year they came out and in the next two years had Ford replace the fuel pump five times. Kind of like the Takada air bag story. Love your chanel. Dave
I have a 2000 Ford F150 that I've run out of ideas, trying to fix a no start situation.
The symptoms are classic of a fuel pressure problem. Once I spray starter fluid in the throttle, it cranks and will crank fine until it sits again for 12 or more hours, and not always will the problem occur, but the cold seems to increase the likeliehood.
I have used a scan tool and a multimeter, among other tools to rule out the MAF, the IAT, the TPMS.
I've ruled out the PCV.
I've replaced the Fuel Pump. The Fuel pressue regulator, fuel filter, checked pressure. looked for vaccuum leaks.
I recently took all the fuel injectors out, and thought I found the problem, when one of them wouldn't hold air pressure from an air pump.
I replaced all the injectors. Same problem.
I'm about ready to rig a can of starter fluid with a servo that squeezes the trigger, to a toggle switch in the cabin, and put it in the inlet hose.
Can any one suggest something other than everything I've looked at?
What was your data that indicated yoiu needed a fuel pump? I would totally start there.
I was getting low fuel pressure, when I measured at the shrader valve (about 30 psi), which is low according to the spec. (28 - 45 psi), and after ruling out the fuel pressure regulator, and fuel filter, or any visible kinks, or blockages in the fuel line, and lots of testimonys on the internet, I concluded it needed a fuel pump. After replacing the pump, the pressure level with the gauge didn't improve at all. When I finally put the fuel injectors in, the pressure actually improved about 5 psi.
When this happens, and I monitor the live data, the Short Term fuel trims, on both banks are around 85-95%, and the MAF, IAT, O2, all report, what I would expect, but it's like the Short term fuel trims are maxxing out, trying to provide enough fuel.
I'll go back, and see what I may have missed.
Ur not a Mechanic? Uhh ur better than most Technicians!
Well thank you! Been doing this as a hobby about 10yrs now
I like your channel the best, great logical direction and results.
Perfect this is the most understanding video I see with all explanation from the beginning and finish thanks recommended
Great to hear!
you right I follow your channel and you help me a lot. I do mechanic most are my cars or family and friends, you should have millions of subscribers you teach really good I just replace fuel
pump of my dodge 2500 v10 thank you for all your teaching
This helped a good bit for my 2001 my valve for my fuel rail is under the rail on the passenger side under that little bracket
Thanks for you great work in this car and your very good explanations in all the process..just simple and usefull!!!...greetings from Guatemala City!!!
Amazing diagnostics keep them coming
More to come!
your work is shining bro.
Simply brilliant. Absolutely... brilliant.
Great Video !
I did until the part, from Carburator Starts and the 15 Amp fuse, now i see there more thing to test...but I dont know have that tool.
Can a Gas Pump during the night broken or be a Filter completeky stucked?
Because Focus mk1 reached home with no issues, next day no more gas intake to the Carb...
The new video opening is great. I do not use my dewalt electric impact driver when I am around open gasoline vapors. Use it in a dark room and watch the sparks that tool puts out. Saw the tool in a few of your camera shots.
Sandbag1300 Yes the impact was only used for removing the support straps. Once I removed fuel lines, the tool and lights were moved far away.
nice vid, enjoy the clarity. Wish all on call outs and garages followed this 101 procedure. I usually teach my apprentices and staff to give the tank a few wacks while ign on or someone cranking,often pump will actuate and verify quickly a fuel pump fault. (of cause ensuring brake on and out of gear or in park!)
+Peter datechmen How do you confirm if the whacks indicate it was the pump vs wiring?
Excellent video! That is how it's done. Bravo. I can't think of 1 thing that you didn't properly cover along the way in your diagnosis other than explaining why you MUST test for fuel pressure and not just flow. RealFixesRealFast has a great video on that called "Don't Let Fuel Volume Fool You". Turns out that was exactly what was wrong with my pump too (split in the rubber hose). I'll never forget that lesson now.
Great video!
I don't understand the mindset of the "98 percenters" who just shoot the messenger. I just fixed my sisters vehicle with a low temp code which turned out to be a stuck open thermostat. But what was the first thing I noticed? Right. A brand new temp sensor. I suppose that if a neighbor came to a "98 percenters" front door and said "hey man, your car is on fire", he would turn the garden hose on him.
Keep up the good work.
Rob Mut I agree- I don't understand the mindset either. I mean I know not everyone has a strong knowledge of cars and systems, etc- but even then, you know when you are just guessing instead of either letting a pro do it or at least trying to do enough research to learn how to test if you guess is accurate. If I am unfamiliar with a system I learn about it first, it seems so obvious to me at least that there is no other way.
I don't get it.
With a scan tool you can check fpr percentage and on that model there is a fuel pump driver module.
Yes correct. But when I saw zero from the scan tool I wasn't convinced because my scan tool very often shows PIDs that I cant actually read with it. Indeed when i fixed it, the scantool did show the correct pressure.
~15:00 Another thing to consider with 'painful' jobs like that,If you're going through the trouble to drop the tank and test the fuel pump,it might be worth it to just put a new one in anyways,while you're at it. I hate doing PITA jobs twice. Might prevent future issues,and swearing.
An example,took a car in for a trans rebuild..had them replace the lower motor mount,and rear main seal while they were at it. They already had it all apart,and everything was right there,easy to do. No point in paying for the same labor again,3 months down the line.
Agreed. At that point I just lowered the tank enough for testing, but in general if I remove a fuel tank, it is getting new pump regardless.
Please do more video like this. I'm new to your channels best of luck man.
Well Matt years ago I diagnosed my 78 Celica with bad fuel pump ..put in new one ..but then though Hey let me bench test the old one.. it shot fuel 12 feet ..so it was my wiring I ran a wire to a switch ..bing anti theft switch/ fuel kill ..so yes the wires do go bad :)
deepsquat600 Yes my very first video I did had burned up wiring to the pump itself inside the tank- so technically a wiring problem but since it was inside the tank it's best to replace the pump anyway.
MOST pumps I replaced had this condition in fact- it wasn't technically the pump itself, but actually voltage drop from inside the tank itself
It's cable, and the throttle spring is fine I'll check the cables tommorrow thanks for you help
Your merchandise is one of the most meaningful on youtube
you are the best and jimthecarguy and fordtechmakuloco your videos are the best tanks
Nice video, i would like you if you can make a video tutorial when you apply voltage at the relay box to the fuel pump. I was confused in the relay box part when you applied voltage with the power probe, because some people fried the PCM
Arodi Cifuentes There is a link in the description to my video on relay testing
Here we go again...
Interesting video. I wish when you are filming and using your Power Probe we could see the indicator lights. When you were using the Power Probe in the PDC (power distribution center) at the terminals for the fuel pump relay, I did not see a green light prior to your application of power to the fuel pump. This indicates to me (i.e., no green light) that their is an open in the fuel pump.
Same thing with testing on the bench; when hooking up the Power Probe to the old fuel pump, with ground lead attached to the fuel pump, and prior to applying power, there should be a green indicator light.
Finally, when diagnosing a fuel pump many times (from a limited tool standpoint) a test I and many technicians/mechanics employ is banging on the gas tank with a rubber mallet (to free up a frozen fuel pump).
johnwrench4speed Yeah I agree- I noticed in editing that my finger was blocking the green light indicator on the probe, I didn't really notice the camera angle at the time because I was so focused on making sure I was sending voltage to the right place- I'll watch that next time.
I actually did try the "percussive technology" technique but didn't film it because it isn't really a test consistent with the theme of the channel since it does not necessitate the pump is bad- it could also just be shaking the wiring or ground so still necessary to test the pump directly to be 100%.
To cheack the wiring intergrity from the fuse box could you put your test pen to positive battery and then to the load side of relay pin 87 and if you see it light it means the wiring is good from connector 87 to the pump windings and back out to pump ground chassis ?
Im 64 and have been wrenching since I was 16...I also approach no starts the same way...The are 3 factors involved always...Fuel, spark and compression... if all 3 are there ,you Will get a start or at least it will Attempt to run.. if any of those 3 fundamentals are absent, its a no go.
friend of a friend has a 1998 F150 that cranks but will not start, has had several "mechanics" look at it and they can't figure it out, I live 50 miles away so was kind of helping by text. They said it had spark, has pressure at fuel rail, could not start it with starter fluid, two weeks ago they changed both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, still wouldn't start. I was finally able to go down and look at it, within 10 minutes had it narrowed down to fuel ( I was able to get it to run with starter fluid, not sure why they couldn't), there is 40 psi pressure at fuel rail so do not think it is the pump or the filter. Don't think it's a fuse issue because near as i can tell from diagrams and online the fuel pump fuse also controls the injectors and pump seems to be working. Did not have time to check for pulse at fuel injectors. When I pulled the intake tube off the throttle body the throttle body and plate is pretty dirty so wondering if there is a TPS issue but it's not showing any codes. Looks like injectors are not firing but need to dig a little deeper. Any ideas or suggestions ? Scanner shows rpm's so crank sensor seems to be working and I'm assuming cam sensor is to, both are brand new.
What’s the cam and crank correlation showing? Seems obvious the issue is there.
Wish you were in Pinetop, AZ area, because I would hire you. My car cranks, but has no power going to the fuel pump. The fuel relay appears to be good. Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body and car temporarily starts up, so I got spark. Checked inertia switch. 2005 Jaguar Stype v6.
+Harley Rider You need to test for power at the relay port then or for an open to the fuel pump
+Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix
Thank you for your response. I am a learning armature, so forgive me if I am not certain that my car has a 'fuel relay port". Perhaps on my vehicle it is called something else? I googled it and came up empty.
Also, what do you mean by "for an open to the fuel pump". You mean a short in the wiring?
+Harley Rider Yeah honestly you'll probably need someone with electrical experience to track this down but basically if you re-watch my video look at where I am doing the DVOM testing at the fuel pump relay port in the engine bay. Thats your next step and I show how to do it in the video.
+Schrodingers Box Thank you sir. I will rewatch this video for the DVOM testing. thumbed video up.
Good job as always Matt. I have a suggestion though that will save you some time in the accuracy of the diagnostic. When you unplugged the relay for the Fuel pump you should have found a way to tap off of the contact and coil side of the relay with it still plugged in. I know you put power at 87 and the pump didn't work, but you didn't get a true Voltage drop for pin 30 and 85 and 86 on the coil side. So if you had a problem on the feed side or coil side of the relay circuits you wouldn't see it because you are checking the wires with the relay unplugged. So if it was a problem on either of these two circuits at the relay base, you just pulled the tank down for nothing and wasted your time. Hope you don't take this the wrong way, just observing and trying to help. Been wrenching 18 years and have been around the block a bit, including getting my butt kicked on different problems, and learning from my mistakes. However I try my best to share my knowledge so other people don't have to make the same mistakes I did, and hopefully it will save them some time and frustrstion. Like what you have done with the channel, looks great dude.
What Juergen said. the power probe has a green indicator light when it makes contact, so I know for a fact I sent 12V towards the pump from the relay box. The fact the pump didn't run means relay box is eliminated- the problem is downstream of that.
The decision to drop the tank was because it was such an easy design. if I had to remove exhaust or whatnot, I would have gone to inertia switch and tested from there.
I understand that the pump did not turn on when he put power to the contact output. And I am in agreement with his thought process, it's just in the past I have encountered multiple problems with circuits and you need to Volt drop check all circuits involved that make a component work, that was my point. Another thing you could do to the relay if possible is take off the relay cover and see if it clicks when you crank the Engine over then look at the contact side output Voltage and make sure this isn't much drop between the contacts with a Voltmeter and with the relay plugged in. Of course you might not see very much drop at all in this case on the relay contacts because the pump is open, so no current flow, no Voltage drop. Unless the relay had extremely bad or corroded contacts.
Schrodingers Box I understand perfectly Matt, you were spot on there, it's just like I said in a previous post I have encountered multiple circuit problems before and you need to verify all circuits involved by doing a Voltage drop test with the relay plugged in. That way you know the contact supply wire is good and that the coil control power and ground is good. That way when you finish the job you know all circuits involved are good.
Had the pump started when I sent 12V to it, I would absolutely have been voltage drop testing those contacts. In actuality there wasn't even a need to verify the relay box at all if you think about it- I only did that because I was already there and wanted to promote my relay video lol.
I like your videos and have learned a lot from them, especially about the approach/methodology of repairs.. but I think this video is mistitled. The description says "No Crank No Start".. yet the engine is cranking, it just wasn't starting (until you fixed it in like 2 minutes! Awesome!)
I found your FASTTEC series and think I'll find more answers there.
If you change the title, I'll give a thumbs-up! I haven't given anything but a view so far. :)
If I recall on this video, initially it was a no crank no start, was it not?
At 2:10, the battery makes a click-click-click sound because it's lacking charge. After charging at 2:46, the engine cranks but doesn't start. At :22 you mention that it's not starting and not cranking. I was confused because if it is *no crank*, it is not shown in the video.
Also, in the title it's "Cranking No Start" and in the description it's No Crank-No Start. I don't expect your videos to be perfectly labeled, maybe if I had my own productive channel, I would :P Basically I want your channel to be as useful and understandable as possible in all aspects. Is there something that I'm not understanding? More likely I just wish the whole thing was even simpler than you explain it to be!
Didn't learn much mechanical growing up, just trying to understand the components and how they work together, well enough that I can repair my car. Watching the 3rd FASTTEC video gave me confidence to repair it myself. I have all my tools together, all set for Monday to diagnose.
If I do need a starter or fuel pump, where would you recommend purchasing one? It's a 2003 Chevy S10 V6. Thanks Matt!
(If you're willing to give some quick advice on where to start, here's what's happened with the truck:
2 week ago: it would Crank No Start, after 1/2 minute it'd sputter to a start.. only happened once or twice
1 week ago: No Crank No Start, started after cable-jump
3 days ago: Tested battery @ Autozone. Tested Healthy/Good
2 days ago: No Crank No Start, lights working BRIGHTLY, started it 45 min earlier just fine (no hiccups).
So I think that the starter was working but slowly died, given that it would start sometimes, sometimes not*. I believe that's the starter's job. Either that or corrosion/voltage drop. What do you think? Thanks again
*I started it multiple times the past 2 weeks with only the 3 incidents I described. All other times, A-OK.
Wait a minute, Now I get it! It's BOTH "Cranking No Start" AND "No Crank-No Start" because this is Schrodinger's Catchanell.
Michael Chavez Hahahahaha I didn't think of it that way but there is certainly a duality aspect for sure! Nice!!
I don't own a car (don't need one) and pretty sure that I don't even own a screwdriver (okay, I don't) but for some bizzarro-world reason just totally fascinated with your car problem diagnosis. Just amazing. So, ever worked on 90's Jags?
Just saw this comment. That's cool you watch even though you have no car lol. Based on your screen name I'd say you probably just have appreciation for my scientific approach which is really the point of these videos anyway.
Sorry I missed your great comment until now!
+Schrodingers Box - I've owned 32 cars in my life, so far, none now! I told my friend with tools about your channel :-) Stay warm!
When you found out your video content was running on other channels was youtube prompt in removing it? The reason why I ask is because like you my channel is growing and I've seen many lone website embed my service videos in webpages and cannot tell if this is streaming off my channel or not. I brand all my video with my logo. Any more info on this would help . Thankyou
***** Jack of all trades, right? Yes I remember seeing your channel- best intro ever!
The answer is it took about 3 weeks after submitting my complaints but indeed the violating channels were shut down.
As far as embedded videos- you are credited for those (as long as the embedding is sourced from your channel) and, in fact, it's a great way for your channel to get advertised.
Schrodingers Box I hope I can achieve half the success you have. I think your channel is great and love watching you test things instead of replace parts. I've learned so much from you and your videos. Also like your humor... The software I use is adobe premier pro and paintshop pro for the image edits. I use a wireless logitec mic headset and tech camtasia recorder for the computer stuff. Have a canon t3I for camera one and a sony camcorder for camera 2. To get my color balance correct I use a passport color checker. The passport is a really good tool in post production to get correct white balance. You have any questions on video production I will be glad to help you out.
Well done.
And congratulations on your channel's success.
GeekDIYMechanic Thanks Geeky!
I do like the fast flowing format.
Tiit Saul Me too- I can see after 10 no starts it would be cumbersome to re-explain how to do the testing and what to look for each time.
What engine?
Matt, by using a paper clip, which terminals do I jump in a relay? Switch side or it depends on circuit design?
You want to do as I did and validate the design first to make sure you are not bypassing the load and short circuiting the system causing damage.
+Schrodingers Box bypass the load you mean the fuel pump in this case?
thanks man that helped me out alot i got my focus running thanks again
Hey I had that Dodge Charger that had crank and no start and found out that the timing pulley had broke and the ball bearings went down and stopped the crank from moving and just wanted to say thank you for talking me thru that. Month later I had to replace alternator bc it started whining bad and replaced and no problems. But a week later my battery light comes on and off. Some days my heated seats won’t stay on, other days my windows won’t work, and lastly my brake lights that usually blink when I go to unlock my car won’t work. What should I look for or start at?
Check for variance in alternator output proportional to belt tension
Thanks for the teaching and your pacience for comunicate your knowledge brother 🙏👍
So nice of you!
Good looking out on the flat rate comment.
One test you could’ve done that’s real quick is to put a fuse loop on the fuel pump fuse and see if you have amp draw consistent with a pump B- if you have a scope, really see what is happening at the pump
Awesome job confirming though. I wish there was time to be that thorough all the time.
I would be called the pump w/ an amp test on a scope and then confirm the fix
Yes at the time of the video I didn’t yet have a scope but now, that is exactly how I do the testing.