Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush. So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil? Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk? Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case. Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like, Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive. Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
My cars wouldn't make a difference. I treat my vehicles like they're my children. Inside of the engine on my vehicles is cleaner then your wife's dishes.
Can it harm anything if it stays in longer than 15 mins idling? Can I apply it and run it for 15 mins and then leave it overnight to change in the morning or will it eat away at seals and gaskets?
Prior to an oil change do you add it when the engine is cold and hasn't been running before warming it up to do a service. Or pour the flush in if the engine was slightly warm/cooled down after a day of running.
Doesn't really matter, but I'd suspect if the engine is already hot or warm, the flush will mix easier in the oil. As long as you run it for about 15 mins after doing it, that's the main thing.
From what I've done and been told it's not necessary. Wait until it's not scorching hot and dangerous but there is no specific waiting period to get the flush and old oil out.
Hi there, Thank you for the question. You can follow the same instructions for a diesel engine as you would for a gasoline engine. If you would like to speak about this in more detail, our Tech Team will be happy to help you out. You can reach them at Tech@amsoil.com or by phone at 715-399-8324. Thank you! - The AMSOIL Team
Hi Do you recommend doing this Amsoil Flush on a vehicle with 28.895 miles 2018 jeep grand cherokee v6 3.6 4x2 ? and can i use Valvoline Extended Protection 0w20 for the new oil ? would it cause any harm ? Hope to hear from you Thank you.
repairvehicle That’s what I figured but about every 50,000 miles on my trucks I run a bottle of flush through during a oil change just for the heck of it. Doesn’t cost much and as long as its not causing any damage I’m sure it’ll guarantee to keep things clean.
@@TermiteBenny I have the same question too, mine is fairly baby at 14,000+ miles but taking extra steps just to be safe and not have carbon buildup over time.
My 2012 GM Ecotec retains nearly a full quart of oil in the engine when I perform drain and refill. Diesels also typically retain 15% of the sump capacity. Amsoil Warranties is voided if I mix oils. Also mixing oils will reduce the life of Amsoil engine oils Will I have to perform a double oil change, to remove that extra oil to achieve full life of the new oil and be covered under the warranty.
@@TheBeatenPaths Ironically the Amsoil Engine Flush Blog suggest to a customer not to use ATF as a flush fluid, even one quart because it will compromise the complex chemical formulation of these engineered oils. but using a flush that smells like turpentine and has very little detergents is perfectly safe. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/766/residual-oil-wear-rate
You should only darin when your Engine is hot, to get the maximum oil out, let it drain for 45 mins or even more if your ambient temp is less than 35° C. The more you give time to drain used oil (on a hot vehicle) the more performance you will get after the new oil you add. Also the new oil will not get dirty soon. Let me know the results afterwards:)
Can it harm anything if it stays in longer than 15 mins idling? Can I apply it and run it for 15 mins and then leave it overnight to change in the morning or will it eat away at seals and gaskets?
@@JuanFuentes8492 I've done it every time I've used a flush. No issues. The main issue is to be sure not to run the engine under load due to lack of lubrication. These flushes won't harm seals
Hey Amsoil bought a high mileage 04 Corolla. It's burning oil. Will this engine flush help to free up piston rings and help unclog the drain holes? Is it safe for my Toyota VVT engine? Thank you for your time!
I warm the engine first (Diesel) add the flush and run for 10 minutes. Drain out, change filters, then add some cheap oil, run for 10 minutes, drain out, then add the final oil I'm going to put in.
No issues. It's pretty much gone. Imagine this: -you added 400ml of flush to 4L of oil, meaning you have 10% of your oil "flush particles". -you drain the oil\flush mixture, leaving about (and I'm exaggerating) 150ml of that mixture in the engine. Because this mixture is 10% flush particles, you have 15ml of flush in your engine. -you add 4L of new oil to the engine, and have 15ml of flush particles in it, meaning 0.37% flush particles in your engine... which is negligent.
No , bike engines are small. If it's higher mileage and above 650cc do it. Else normal synthetic oils got many chemicals to keep the engine clean, so that will work for smaller engines.
Yet Scotty recommends CRO505. Engine flushes are fine if you cared and maintained your vehicle. If you are unaware of the car's service history, proceed with caution! ⚠️
I wanted to do the engine flush but I keep seeing videos about it’s not needed and it’s a waste of money as long as you’re keeping up to date on the oil changes you should be fine and not need an engine flush cause it can clog areas that needs the engine oil or I even seeing a video that it can throw off the timing belt don’t know how but that’s what I heard
From what i have read is that amsoil is a 100% detergent and is safe for vehicles but if you have severe sludge and carbon I would not do it. Like you said it can break stuff off and fill vvt and small oil ports. Amsoil sig series already has a ton of detergents in it that will slowly melt all that crap down. It would be best change your oil with cheap oil run the car around the block and then change it again with the amsoil sig series. By doing that you get all of the old oil out of ports , oil cooler and the bottom of the oil pan plus the new oil will stay cleaner longer to. Most recommend to change the filter 500-1000 miles into the change since your oil filter will probably be filled with a ton of crap. Also make sure you use a filter made for synthetic oil or it will break down the media in 5k miles and start to just not filter oil.
@@tonychambers9228 I do the same thing, its called a Full Volume OIl Change in the Machinery Lubrication industry. I bought a bottle of the Amsoil flush, and it smells like turpentine, and oil analysis shows it has very little detergents. Better off with the your method, use a good quality API oil, run it for 20 minutes on the highway, drain and refill with Signature Series. Modern Engines can retain 10-20% residual oil, sludge, contaminents and wear metals. I have oil analysis to prove that. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31012/short-volume-oil-changes
Did an engine flush on my honda accord because I had a P1259 code which was the vtec wouldn't work and would stop accelerating after a certain rpm , check engine light went away and now it works perfectly fine.
@@victorteo4783 theirs a lot of different causes then just an electrical problem youtube mechanic. - Damaged, burnt, shorted, disconnected, and corroded wiring and/or connectors - Defective VTEC oil control solenoid - Defective VTEC oil pressure switch - Low engine oil level - Dirty, degraded, or unsuitable engine oil - Failed or failing PCM, but note that since this a rare event, the fault must be sought elsewhere before any control module is replaced mine was because of the engine oil was really dirty and wasn't changed for probably a long time, it was trade in car. code hasn't been on since after doing it.
I took my car in because it was jerking, so they said compression was low on the 4th cylinder so I don't know if engine flush would help.... Any advice?
So JiiffyLube is charging $99 for pouring in an additive and waiting 10 minutes?
Basically. I work at Jiffy Lube, and most of the times the prices that the owners of the shop put are overpriced.
I just got scammed by jiffy lube 😩
You should be changing your own oil so you know for sure it's what you want done.
They put dirty oil in my engine why do yall do that for one
Same as lube center
Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush.
So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil?
Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk?
Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case.
Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like, Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive.
Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
My cars wouldn't make a difference. I treat my vehicles like they're my children. Inside of the engine on my vehicles is cleaner then your wife's dishes.
GR8 VIDEO STRAIGHT an TO THE POINT!!!
You guys should put up more stores or have them on shelves
You can order online and have it shipped to you. It keeps the money from funneling into those big box store pockets.
Can it harm anything if it stays in longer than 15 mins idling? Can I apply it and run it for 15 mins and then leave it overnight to change in the morning or will it eat away at seals and gaskets?
Prior to an oil change do you add it when the engine is cold and hasn't been running before warming it up to do a service. Or pour the flush in if the engine was slightly warm/cooled down after a day of running.
Doesn't really matter, but I'd suspect if the engine is already hot or warm, the flush will mix easier in the oil. As long as you run it for about 15 mins after doing it, that's the main thing.
@@kylestover2670 what about changing the oil - flush combo ? Wait for engine to cool or not necessary ? Thanks
@@babagandu yes we need to know this.
From what I've done and been told it's not necessary. Wait until it's not scorching hot and dangerous but there is no specific waiting period to get the flush and old oil out.
Would I take the same steps for a diesel engine? and... If it is an older diesel engine, what advice do you have?
Hi there, Thank you for the question. You can follow the same instructions for a diesel engine as you would for a gasoline engine.
If you would like to speak about this in more detail, our Tech Team will be happy to help you out. You can reach them at Tech@amsoil.com or by phone at 715-399-8324. Thank you! - The AMSOIL Team
If your vehicle has been neglected and not had timely oil changes, don’t do an engine flush. It’ll cause more problems.
The point is to use it BECAUSE you have build up
Is it required when switching from Valvoline full synthetic to amsoil signature series?
no
Hi
Do you recommend doing this Amsoil Flush on a vehicle with 28.895 miles 2018 jeep grand cherokee v6 3.6 4x2 ? and can i use Valvoline Extended Protection 0w20 for the new oil ? would it cause any harm ?
Hope to hear from you
Thank you.
Yes you can use the flush but I recommend you use Amsoil or Pennzoil ultra platinum oil.
You just might have some sludge or varnish starting, so it would be a good idea to do the flush before switching over.
How often can we do this flush? Truck had 250k miles.
You could do a flush safely before every oil change if you felt the need. A couple in a row isn't a bad idea if you think you have heavy build up.
1:40 start it with cap not on he said? He said start it up, let it run for a few seconds, check the oil level and then put the cap back on.
Cue card reader, you need real technicians making videos 😂
Is the flush recommended for engines that have been running Amsoil for a long time?
If you were using Amsoil Oil, then your engine will be clean on the inside and you would not need flush.
repairvehicle That’s what I figured but about every 50,000 miles on my trucks I run a bottle of flush through during a oil change just for the heck of it. Doesn’t cost much and as long as its not causing any damage I’m sure it’ll guarantee to keep things clean.
@@TermiteBenny I have the same question too, mine is fairly baby at 14,000+ miles but taking extra steps just to be safe and not have carbon buildup over time.
@@repairvehicle +1. Amsoil has more detergents than any other brand. Project Farm gave us all them deets.
My 2012 GM Ecotec retains nearly a full quart of oil in the engine when I perform drain and refill. Diesels also typically retain 15% of the sump capacity. Amsoil Warranties is voided if I mix oils. Also mixing oils will reduce the life of Amsoil engine oils Will I have to perform a double oil change, to remove that extra oil to achieve full life of the new oil and be covered under the warranty.
Call Amsoil Product Support (715) 399-TECH (8324) M-F, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Central. They are very very knowledgeable!
@@TheBeatenPaths Ironically the Amsoil Engine Flush Blog suggest to a customer not to use ATF as a flush fluid, even one quart because it will compromise the complex chemical formulation of these engineered oils. but using a flush that smells like turpentine and has very little detergents is perfectly safe. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/766/residual-oil-wear-rate
do you still drain oil whilst engine is hot or you let it cool down?
You should only darin when your Engine is hot, to get the maximum oil out, let it drain for 45 mins or even more if your ambient temp is less than 35° C. The more you give time to drain used oil (on a hot vehicle) the more performance you will get after the new oil you add. Also the new oil will not get dirty soon. Let me know the results afterwards:)
After idling the engine with the Engine Flush, it would be advised to let the engine cool down for a few minutes.
Can it harm anything if it stays in longer than 15 mins idling? Can I apply it and run it for 15 mins and then leave it overnight to change in the morning or will it eat away at seals and gaskets?
Is it necessary to let the engine/oil cool before changing the oil ? Or is it directly after letting it idle ?
If you drain the oil right after running it, while it's warm, it will drain faster.
@@jonathanmartin7602 OK thanks 🤝🏻😃
I used to flush with diesel had good results on diesel engines
Makes sense as that's the primary ingredient in flushes
that's the OLD FASHIONED way 2 do it wen REAL OIL was used...
Can a engine flush remain in your sump overnight to ensure all the oil had dropped to the bottom??
Yes. Most oil flushes are 90% diesel fuel.
Not a good idea. I wouldn’t do that.
@@JuanFuentes8492 I've done it every time I've used a flush. No issues. The main issue is to be sure not to run the engine under load due to lack of lubrication. These flushes won't harm seals
Hey Amsoil bought a high mileage 04 Corolla. It's burning oil. Will this engine flush help to free up piston rings and help unclog the drain holes? Is it safe for my Toyota VVT engine? Thank you for your time!
No. It’s burning oil due to bad piston rings or bad valve seals, if anything it would make it worse. You could try engine restorer in a can though
This will help clean the piston compression and oil rings and it’s grooves.
Add the bottle to a cold or hot engine?
Does it matter? You are going to let it idle for 15 minutes so it will get hot anyways.
I warm the engine first (Diesel) add the flush and run for 10 minutes. Drain out, change filters, then add some cheap oil, run for 10 minutes, drain out, then add the final oil I'm going to put in.
I just did the Amsoil flush and 5/30 signature. Now what about the residual flush in the motor still? Does that cause any issues.
No issues. It's pretty much gone. Imagine this:
-you added 400ml of flush to 4L of oil, meaning you have 10% of your oil "flush particles".
-you drain the oil\flush mixture, leaving about (and I'm exaggerating) 150ml of that mixture in the engine. Because this mixture is 10% flush particles, you have 15ml of flush in your engine.
-you add 4L of new oil to the engine, and have 15ml of flush particles in it, meaning 0.37% flush particles in your engine... which is negligent.
Is it necessary for 4stroke bike? Every oil changes
No , bike engines are small. If it's higher mileage and above 650cc do it. Else normal synthetic oils got many chemicals to keep the engine clean, so that will work for smaller engines.
That's excessive. Every so often it is a good idea to flush the engine, but generally it isn't necessary.
So you add the flush to an engine already filled with oil.
It's actually recommended never to flush the engine, scotty kilmor is adamant its a bad thing as well as others
Yet Scotty recommends CRO505. Engine flushes are fine if you cared and maintained your vehicle. If you are unaware of the car's service history, proceed with caution! ⚠️
I wanted to do the engine flush but I keep seeing videos about it’s not needed and it’s a waste of money as long as you’re keeping up to date on the oil changes you should be fine and not need an engine flush cause it can clog areas that needs the engine oil or I even seeing a video that it can throw off the timing belt don’t know how but that’s what I heard
From what i have read is that amsoil is a 100% detergent and is safe for vehicles but if you have severe sludge and carbon I would not do it. Like you said it can break stuff off and fill vvt and small oil ports. Amsoil sig series already has a ton of detergents in it that will slowly melt all that crap down. It would be best change your oil with cheap oil run the car around the block and then change it again with the amsoil sig series. By doing that you get all of the old oil out of ports , oil cooler and the bottom of the oil pan plus the new oil will stay cleaner longer to. Most recommend to change the filter 500-1000 miles into the change since your oil filter will probably be filled with a ton of crap. Also make sure you use a filter made for synthetic oil or it will break down the media in 5k miles and start to just not filter oil.
@@tonychambers9228 ok , I have been consistent with my oil change and use Mobile 1 oil with a wix filter
@@tonychambers9228 I do the same thing, its called a Full Volume OIl Change in the Machinery Lubrication industry. I bought a bottle of the Amsoil flush, and it smells like turpentine, and oil analysis shows it has very little detergents. Better off with the your method, use a good quality API oil, run it for 20 minutes on the highway, drain and refill with Signature Series. Modern Engines can retain 10-20% residual oil, sludge, contaminents and wear metals. I have oil analysis to prove that. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31012/short-volume-oil-changes
If your vehicle has been neglected and not had timely oil changes, don’t do an engine flush. It’ll cause more problems.
what if I add flush into engine, and drive my car 15 minutes with low engine speed？
He didn't explain why its EXTREMELY important.
Why it's extremely important?
"Extremely Important". 😂🤣
Those cleaning chemicals are horrible for your bearings. Would never do a flush
I would never, never do an engine flush. Thank you.
Did an engine flush on my honda accord because I had a P1259 code which was the vtec wouldn't work and would stop accelerating after a certain rpm , check engine light went away and now it works perfectly fine.
@@WithoutOnlyMe p1259 is an electrical problem. Orders what connection it has to do with engine flush?
@@victorteo4783 theirs a lot of different causes then just an electrical problem youtube mechanic.
- Damaged, burnt, shorted, disconnected, and corroded wiring and/or connectors
- Defective VTEC oil control solenoid
- Defective VTEC oil pressure switch
- Low engine oil level
- Dirty, degraded, or unsuitable engine oil
- Failed or failing PCM, but note that since this a rare event, the fault must be sought
elsewhere before any control module is replaced
mine was because of the engine oil was really dirty and wasn't changed for probably a long time, it was trade in car.
code hasn't been on since after doing it.
I took my car in because it was jerking, so they said compression was low on the 4th cylinder so I don't know if engine flush would help.... Any advice?