Amsoil Engine Flush: Does it work?
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- In this video I use Amsoil engine flush on my 2009 Ford Expedition with 222,000km. I tried a little experiment using clean oil and filter to determine if we could actually see visually the sludge/dirt/deposits that Amsoil Engine Flush claims to remove. The results are surprising.
I would have done the oil change, ran without Amsoil for 15 min drained a cup or so, poured the amsoil flush in ran for 15 mins and compared the two samples. Thank you for taking the time to make this video I would still say it works!
think bigger I totally agree. I should have showed the colour and displayed that the residual oil does or does not affect the colour of the new fresh oil. Next video I will do it that way for sure.
I also like that idea. Also wondering if the oil was hot after 15mins? just guessing, but I feel like the engine flush would work best if it gets hot.
Nevermind. I paused right before you said its burning hot. lol.
You'd have to redo this test with a whole another car. If you're using Amsoil motor now, there's supposed to be no sludge formation. I did this test the exact same way you did, except with BG EPR. Oil came out significantly darker 2nd time. The most accurate test would've been to drain a bit of oil into a cup (or as the oil starts to drip, catch it with a paper towel to see the color). Then, add the additive and drain fully. Whichis what think bigger said.
Right because the oil changes color when it heats
As an AMSOIL dealer, running brand new oil in an engine that has any sort of mileage on it will come out darker. This is not an indicator of how dirty the oil is. I've actually sampled oil which held engine flush in it and the feedback from the analyst did not show any abnormalities. IMO, the only real way to know how well this works would be to pull a valve cover and see if previous sludge buildup is now diminished. Engine flush is a good product, as its a high dosage of cleaners. Doing this same test with a cheap synthetic may yield better results. People just buy into tests like this as if they are valid. Do your maintenance, flush as needed, and your engine will run long and strong!
This is an interesting test. One thing I've picked up on over the years with the engine flush is to get the engine hot before you do the flush. Amsoil Dealer came up with the idea and to me it made a lot of sense they claimed it cleaned better. One thing I always do is put a fresh filter on when doing a flush and they usually come out very heavy after draining the oil like they caught a lot of contaminants during flush. If you are wanting to keep that engine clean just run Amsoil in it, whatever the flush doesn't get the oil will in due time. Amsoil is far superior to most motor oils I would never use anything else. Anyone that has documented long term use in one engine with Amsoil comes up almost fake like results when the engines are broke down. More testimonies are popping up but a lot of them are untold on youtube, the oil has been around along time.
I’m a Preferred Customer with Amsoil and I love their products. Been using them for 2 years now and I have switched many friends and family over to Amsoil. They all love it too. Thanks for the comparison!
Great video!! I'm an Amsoil dealer and I've been hoping someone would test their Flush like this!
Thanks! I'm a skeptic, and I was looking for someone who could show empirically if these work and I could not find a video, so I made one.
Are u guys having a black friday discount?
As is stated in comment before this on
Only problem with is depending on miles on vehicle a 15 min run right after doing oil change depending hiw long you let it drain would still turn oil that color there is no comparison on what it looked like after oil change and ran for the 15 min with nothing in it....it would also depend on how well the other tool care of car with other oil changes........niy say it would not work but with out knowledge on those items there's no way to tell if it actually works or the oil washed the rest of the grime out of the motor and you drained it
@@sandman1624150 I think the fact that the "old" oil was not really "old" did close to what you are looking for, now don't get me wrong, it is a better comparison to do a oil change no flush come back a day later oil change with flush
Amsoil. Great Product. And Yes Great Video to show everyone that are doubtful of this Great Product Amsoil Engine/Trans Flush made. Amsoil Really Does care about engine life.
Do the EXACT same test, except minus the cleaner, let me know how that oil looks....
Daniel C EXACTLY MY THOUGHTS !!!!!!
Also put the additive in the new oil with out putting it through the engine, see if it gets darker
Andrew Rutz Great suggestion
can confirm this stuff works, however an even better method in to use ATF. get the cheapest ATF you can find and do the same thing. will clean even better. ATF is designed with an absurd amount of detergents to keep an automatic transmission clean for 75K before a flush. and is equivalent to a 5W-20 weight oil in its viscosity so its perfectly safe to use as a flush.
new oil doesnt darken after 15 minutes
I'm an Amsoil dealer and I'm happy see someone test this product thoroughly
Great video. My vehicles are 100% AMSOIL. It's night and day difference from dino oil too 100% synthetic oil. The flush does a great job too! I have a 5.9 Cummings with almost 400K miles and I use the flush every oil change because of the suit from the exhast. I have gone 25k miles with the oil. I have a oil bypass system plus the AMSoil. Very cool! I also have a 2012 ram that is still factory... Not deleted on a 6.7 Cummings. I can go about 15,000 to 18,000 miles between oil changes. I'd go longer but there gets diesel fuel in my oil because it's always doing regeneration of the DPF. Darn EPA!!! Again, Great video!
Great video, I used the engine flush on my car before switching to Amsoil. I was wondering how much sludge it removed & this pretty much answered the question
Thanks Marc. That was my hope for this video.
After watching this I did the exact same thing on my rogue when I changed the oil. All I can say is that it works great. the oil came out black as coal when I flushed it. Stuff does a great job. Not sure if its better than any other oil flush but either way it works
Good to see you have the most important component of the flush. A Timmys.
Great job on oil flush .... Using transmission fluid as a engine flush is cheaper and just as effective ....
I pour 2 litres of diesel fuel into a engine after draining oil then put the drain plug back in and pour in diesel fuel to help clean bottom of the engine oil pan.
I then pour cheap clean oil in and run engine and drain it to help clean out residual diesel fuel and drain this oil into a clean pan and use the oil in a older vehicle as top up oil
It just cleans the oil passages it is a extra step but if your ocd or like clean engine oil it works to clean sludge
I have experimented putting 2 litres of new oil 1 litre of transmission fluid and 1 litre of diesel into a engine and running it for 30 minutes even driving it around the block then changing the oil and it really cleans out a engine it stopped the stuck valve noise on start up which had noise valve train noise on start up ...
It is good to see a review like this.
I find it reassuring the cleaner is backed by Amsoil. I am certain they have more access to information on this subject than me. And expert information from engineers who study this their whole lives.
I will be purchasing this product soon.
An old guy who ran a small station back in the 1970's told me right before an oil change he would add one quart of transmission fluid to the oil. He would drain some out if he had to. He got the idea when someone showed him it would clean greasy oily hands. So he figured if it could clean the gunk off his hands, it could clean the same gunk inside the engine. He would then run the engine on short trips for a few days then change it. I started doing it every other oil change. Once my old Dodge had 60,000 miles it used a wee bit of oil in 5,000 miles so I just added whatever it was low. If it only took a half quart, okay.
It was doing the job because at 100,000 miles I pulled the valve covers to install new gaskets and it was spotless in there. NO SLUDGE at all. At about 150,000 miles the oil pan starting leaking so I removed it and I was amazed by how clean the pan was. Again NO SLUDGE. The van had about 190,000 miles on it when I parked it and started using it for storing things. She starting rusting out the floors so I wasn't sure it was safe to drive. So the trans fluid cleaned the engine and did not shorten engine life because it ran perfect at 190,000 and I wasn't using synthetic way back then. Had only slightly heard of it but it was way too expensive back then.
I live ten miles from the nearest city so the engine always got a good heat up before it was parked. That might have helped keep the engine clean but it was mostly the transmission fluid because I would check the oil on the dipstick and I could see it get darker in just 50 miles of driving after I added the trans fluid.
My mom's 06 grand caravan has 235k miles I just took off a valve cover and it was spotless too I was pretty surprised, we just do the regular oil changes tho
Anywhere from 10 - 20% of the oil in your engine remains after a standard drain and refill. These modern engines have overhead cams with multiple galleys, VVT, coolers and the main oil galley and pump. What you saw come out during the Amsoil flush is the new oil with 10-20% of old oil. I have done this many times without a flush. What you should have done was drain and refill a second time to get a 99% oil replacement, and then add the Amsoil flush and compare. For sampling oil, use a blank business card paper stock, and place 2 drops of oil on it and let it stand for several hours. Repeat with the oil using the flush. You will be surprised. When I do this the oil in the engine stays nearly as clean as virgin oil for the first 500 miles, and much cleaner compared to just a drain and refill at 15 miles. I have oil analysis that shows the retention of wear metals, depletion of additives, loss of viscosity after a simple drain and refill. I use Amsoil products for 30 years. Most people assume that a drain and refill gets all the oil out, it does not. Would any buy a jug of oil that says it contains up to 20% used oil of unknown quality, and may contain wear metals, fuel dilution and sludge, and use it for a full oil change interval (5-7K miles)? I don't know anyone that would. Make another video and complete the 99% flush, then add Amsoil and do the two drop paper test.
Thanks for the ideas. Maybe in a future video!
Good job. Im not surprised. I run amsoil in my 15 5.0. Im going to do this flush today before my oil change. Truck has almost 100k, got it with 50k and ran amsoil sig from day 1. I would like to think the amsoil oil has cleaned the engine alone over that time, but im doing the flush anyways, i figure it cant hurt and I plan on running this truck until the wheels fall off. Thanks for the time and doing this comparison. 👍
Great video! However I wonder - could the dark color of the oil darken because of the temperature of the engine or some leftovers inside? In project farm channel when he does oil test when he cooks/heats the oil - it changes color towards (darkening the oil). Dark oil is not necessarily contaminated/dirty but I suppose it could be. It's not a critique but just my thoughts. After the flush did you noticed a change in engine working - e.g. quiet, smooth working or any other difference from before? I love these kind of experiments from honest people! Thank you!
Some leftovers that oil changes can not remove them!
You didn't point out the original color of the Amsoil product. But I watched as you poured it and it looked pretty clear. If the original product was dark in color that would "color" your results.
Adding a flush to clean oil. FINALLY a guy with a brain to do a real test. Kudos.
3:35 if you have a drill, drill a small (very small) hole in the bottom end of the filter. Just be quick pulling the drill back.
Turn the oil jut so the spout is up, not down. pours better.
Just use a punch to knock a hole in the filter
Great test and yes all amsoil products are great I use it on both vehicles also preferred customer
Always put the fill cap back on, so the PCV system works correctly.
@Ricky Bobby Yes, and well designed engines have a separation section in the valve cover, and preferably a catch can or"condensator" outside to keep motor oil out of the intake. Top cylinder oil in the fuel is great. Motor oil is not because of additives.
@Ricky Bobby Another thing Ricky, the crankcase will not vent to the outside because the PCVent is pulling air toward the intake manifold. The exception is 4 cylinder engines which spit oil out the filler hole. That is inherent with 4 cylinders and less (including lawnmowers).
@Ricky Bobby : I have been installing oil separators since 1975. The early one was the Oildex. It had a filter in the top, a bottom glass jar and an adjustable PCV valve. They are large, about 4" round by 10" long. So I've had knowledge of keeping oil out of the intake before zinc-phosphorus was determined to shorten the life of catalytic converters.
Back to the Amsoil flush: Use as directed in a fairly clean engine, with the oil filler cap on. Dirty sludged up engines require a follow up procedure. I hope this clarifies my view of the matter.
And the flush is supposed to helps clean out the PCV while you're running the engine
Synthetic oil protection on UA-cam posts bunch of videos about Amsoil, you should watch some of his, I enjoy his Chanel very much
James's take on the world I actually emailed Eben a few days ago with a link to this video asking him to comment on it.
Funny, his chancel was the one who introduced me to AMSOIL
The 1st oil change will always have crap in it because there's always dirt in some area's inside engine. Great effort and sure it did some good.
My 2.0 VW Jetta used to use 1-quart every 3000 miles. After the Amsoil flush it's reduced 75%!! Awesome stuff.
Hey bro, do you think it will work in my skoda octavia 1.9tdi clocked 90000 kms?
Hot oil turns a dark color pretty instantly I think. Might not necessarily be contaminates that darkened the drain oil.
Hot oil turns dark? Do you have references for that?
@@AquaticLogic Yes, I own a diesel. Run new oil for a day and see how quickly it turns.
Diesel is different than gas
Wao I use AMSOIL flush the first time the oil come out black that stuff is real 5 star thankyou for the video
Good work showing these visual results! I've been using these AMSOIL products myself on various autos, I believe it works very well.
How did it run before and after. Engine noise. Drivability.
Yeah i wanna know
Try to drain the new post flush oil to see if it'd still be dark because of the deposit on the oil pan that might be still present?
I agree with Daniel... your also getting remnants of the previous oil that wasnt fully drained from previous oil change!
Awesome video!
I knew that amsoil stuff is good.
I put signature series in my Ford and runs like a champ.
Its so friggin expensive where I live, so I use other premium synthetic oil that goes on sale, but it is no doubt the best (or damn close it the best) and nobody can disagree with that.
Im not a dealer and not
paid by amsoil and not given free products. Purchased all with my own funds.
Using amsoil
since 2005 in a 2003 2.4L Camry. Extended drain intervals have been used since
I bought the car in 2005 with 42K miles. I have used the amsoil engine flush
each year before I change the oil and I only change the oil every 15K miles or
1 year... whichever occurs first. Car now has 141K miles on it and I am still
driving it as my commuter to work on days with good weather. Working 24 hr.
shifts at the Fire Department I have an 82-mile round trip so roughly 10,800
miles per year just driving to work. Back in 2006 I was commuting to KC and put
over 20,000 miles on one oil change on the Camry halfway through I changed the
oil filter topped off oil dip stick and good for another 10K miles. That was
back before amsoil came out with the better 15,000 oil filters and yes this is
the same Camry I am still driving today. After that the car sat for a few years
not driven much but she is out of the garage and back on the road now. So,
engine flushes have not hurt me at all so ill assume they have helped eliminate
sludge but would have to tear the motor apart to 100% verify and really no
reason to at this point. I should be good for another 100k. I currently have
15,000 miles on the current oil in the Camry so its ready for another oil
change and filter.
I also have been using amsoil in large zero turn lawn mowers (6 acer lawn) Honda 1132
snowblower, arien’s 724 snowblower, etc… just purchased a 2014 Silverado LTZ
Z71 with a 6.2L with 67K miles and ill switch to amsoil soon there as well.
For the record i only used engine flush in vehicles and not the smaller engines
Been a Ford mechanic for going on 20 years now. The problem with that engine is, from the factory the oil pump is mediocre at best. And the timing chain tensioners are plastic with little rubber gaskets glued to the back side of them. People who don't use good quality oils or who don't change the oil often enough degrade the gaskets behind the tensioners and they blow out. It starts as a rattle on start-up. Turns into a knocking or rattling from the cam sprockets. Most people don't notice it cause it's mostly under acceleration. And then there's no longer enough oil supply to support VCT function and the engine begins to run very poorly and set codes for timing correlation. If at any time you notice any of that noise it's already too far gone for an oil flush to fix it. In fact it will likely make it worse. If you continue to drive it that way it will allow timing chain slap and it will break the guides, resulting in the chains rubbing the front cover and causing metal flakes to get into the oil pump further degrading the pump. Chunks of plastic plugging up the oil pickup tube and starving the engine of oil, wiping out the bottom end. Or it could also jump time and bend the valves. When they come into the shop we install all new timing components and an upgraded aftermarket high volume oil pump.
That Melling M360 is a beauty. I'm gonna do the timing system with that pump in the spring. Thanks for the commentary.
Excellent video. The only other Amsoil videos I have seen were projectfarm and from Amsoil dealers. I have used Amsoil in my chainsaw but never in one of my vehicles
i would want to see how fresh oil drained no amsoil, then fresh oil drained after amsoil
That what i was wondering! Run it 15 mins no flush check it change it then run with flush would be a more accurate comparison
Yeah that would probably have been a better methodology. My hope was that pulling out "clean" oil would help mitigate some of that, but maybe in my next video I will do a clean oil flush, and then add in the Amsoil flush with another round of oil.
Did you cut open the new oil filter that you installed during the flush? I’m curious if it was full of slug or not. Although it appeared your engine was taken care of and was fairly clean.
Very good comparison. What color is the flush fluid?
it is clear like water
If you gonna run a thin flush in some new oil, bump up the viscosity one tick. So if it is supposed to take a 5W-20 or 0W-20, bump it up to a 5W-30 or 10W-30. If it calls for 5W-30, bump it up to a 10W-40. And even though it says to just idle it, I put something to hold the throttle at 1500 rpms for 30 mins, or I go out and drive it normally for 30 min total. No heavy-footed acceleration or high rpms, just normal driving on some country backroads. I often do some induction cleaning on the top end at the same time since I'm changing the oil and filter out afterwards anyway. Might as well clean the combustion chambers and valves at the same time as the crankcase and piston ring lands, making good use of that inexpensive oil and filter. If you use highest quality oil and change it on time, you could avoid the need to run a flush or induction cleaning.
I like the bumping up the SAE viscosity to account for the thinning of the flush, maybe running some seafoam in through the intake, but driving the vehicle with the flush in it is an absolute no for me.
There is a guy on YT that did a test to see how many oil changes back to back it took for the oil to come out the same color as it went in. I believe he idled the engine for 10-15 minutes between changes. I believe it took 5. At that point, I would have done the oil flush to see what color it came out.
Finally! Someone who has done it the proper way.
I am planning on doing the same with my wife's Audi TT but using Liqui Molly engine flush. Once it gets warmer in NJ that is.
Here is the plan:
Step 1) Old Liqui Molly oil + engine flush
Step 2) New oil - cheapest 502/505 approved 5w40+new filter+engine flush
Step 3) AMS Oil European Formula 5w40 full SAPS oil + AMSOil filter.
Note: may be repeat step 2 twice, TBD on the condition of what is going to come out.
Just saw your video and wanted to ask what was the platic you were trying to use under the oil filter? Have a Ram 1500 and tryong to prevent it from spilling all over the car and the tool you were trying to use looks like something I need to look into for this. Thanks in advance.
I think you proved that the Amsoil flush is effective despite some minor issues with methodology. When you ran the engine at 6:50 there was obvious engine knocking. I am interested in what oil you finally put into the engine and if there was any obvious sound difference especially if your final oil was an Amsoil product.
I'm glad you put this video I'll. Although I have used AMSOIL flush as nice to see someone actually complete the process would clean oil.
Thanks!
I guarantee you if you didn’t add the Amsoil engine flush, the oil would still look the same darkness. The reason is there is quite a bit of old old left in the engine, lines, pan, etc.
Try this: do 3 oil changes back to back with cheap oil after running 15 minutes each time. If the final oil change comes out as clean as it went in, then add the flush on the 4th oil change. That’s only true way to see if the flush works?
Only "cheaper" oil is now $8 a quart. So, using your method, I'm paying $150 to clean the engine and change the oil.
SO remember Amsoil is a cleaner so when u use Amsoil all the time your motor gets cleaner the more u use it. Now my Honda was brand new so my dipstick looks brand new after 2 years and 2 oil changes . I put Amsoil in after 3000 miles in mine when I bought it. But my oil still looks golden clean after 18000 miles and one year. I drive 18000 miles per year. So when I did my at 38000 my dipstick looks brand new and oil still had a golden look when I stuck my finger in the bucket after I drained it.
@@lakshmidharstar7708 AMSOIL says 25,00 miles OR ONE YEAR which ever comes first in "NATURALLY ASPIRATED" vehicles not in commercial use. Otherwise their recommendation is 15, 000 mile or ONE year whichever comes first. It's written on the bottles.
@@LA_Commander yes but if u don't flush the first time u switch over then you will need to change your oil at 5000 to get out the old junk. I only flush motors That have never used Amsoil. Once that's done u don't have to flush it again. Hope this helps.
@@lakshmidharstar7708 Amsoil says to do what the Manufacture says. They just test it and found that thru testing it last . I been using Amsoil in my car for ten years and I never had any problems and Amsoil warranty it up to 500,000 miles . if the motor fails and oil cause the problem that will replace it fully. Ive never seen them have to pay for a motor there products just work great.
I'm an Amsoil dealer as well and just recently used this on my wife's car.
I changed her oil with the same stuff she had put in at a shop, ran it for 1500 miles, then drained and took a sample. Refilled with same oil again and then after a week and 1500 miles we added the flush, idled for 15 minutes and drained again with another sample. The oil with Amsoil flush was much darker. I even removed the valve cover and it seems much cleaner that I would think it would have been. We have switched over to Amsoil 5w20 signature series and filter.
Running without the oil cap on the motor makes a difference because the oil pressure is not enough to push the oil through every crevice.
I'm trying this stuff next time on my next oil change I'm convinced because I brought an 02 IS300 with currently 162,XXX miles and this stuff is probably needed.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. Top class
I use the AMSOIL engine flush and AMSOIL engine oil 5w30 in my 2010 f250 with the 5.4 and the truck has 300.000 and everything is original and it runs amazing
SALEEN S1000 Did you take the Ford Tech Makulocos advice on that heavier weight? I have been doing lots of reading about it, but still have not made my mind up yet. It’s coming into winter here so I put 0w-20 in.
Aquatic Logic ya I saw the ford tech videos and did a lot more research probably for a few months I did research and from the research 5w30 seemed to be better for the 5.4 3v and so far it has 303.000 miles and runs amazing everything is original
Detailed video, but the problem I would see is that I'm pretty sure if you did the same process without the amsoil, the clean oil would still def be darker anyway just bc theres still plenty of dirty old oil in the engine mixing with it
I almost agree Tyler, but I removed "clean" oil, with over half its life left. It had little to no colour, and my hope was that residual of that should not really affect the flush colour.
Of course it works it’s the best stuff in the market and closer to real synthetic than any others and Valvoline is excellent oil as well
Good video! Amsoil flush doesn’t require new oil and filter though. Just do it before the oil and filter change each time should be fine.
Very cool video, i am a fan of amsoil products. However, there is one flaw and that is the fact that oil color does darken after it has been heated. Very black oil is what you would be looking for because black oil contains soot. On the other hand I am not sure how you could test this with a short/less time consuming method. Best way would obviously be to view engine internals before and after use. Issue with that is not many people have that much time. Especially if you have an 8-5 job or even longer. Good luck in your testing methods. Subscribed👍
Thanks for the feedback Zac. Can you link me to anything reputable linking oil colour as a function of its temperature? Thats a new one for me.
@@AquaticLogic www.google.com/amp/s/blog.amsoil.com/why-does-motor-oil-turn-black/amp/
That link should be to amsoils website. On that page they do state that high heat naturally darkens oil.
Why not skip the flush and just change the filter when it's clogged? Is there no way to detect when it's clogged via oil pressure checks?
I like your video just want to say is the cam phasers don't actuate at idle so the oil galley on one side of the phazer never gets fresh oil to it. I have had to take the plugs out of the bracket to clean 1 time. The shop it was at had just put a brand new head on it and burnt it up from not having oil.
I do believe oil flushes work, however when draining the oil you can never get ALL of the old oil out, and even without the flush involved, the drained new oil would still be noticeably darker than the new oil fresh out of the tub.
and the sludge might be too dense to flow out of the oil pan drain hole which would need to be removed with putty knife
Huh!! It looks like you had a VERY small amount of varnish, but no real sludge build up. Shows you've been getting oil changes on time. I've used the Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush on some Hyundais my friends own (conventional 5-6k mile oil changes) and that stuff came out tar black. After use, you can tell the engine runs smoother now that the oil passages have been cleaned. I'll have to use the Amsoil flush myself on something, but by the looks of it, it works pretty well. Did you look in the valve cover after cleaning or was there a plate blocking view of the cam sprocket and timing chain?
Oh it works. Used it many times in different vehicles. Sometimes it works too well. Washes a lot of junk into the pan if its there. Can clog the oil pump intake.
Good video don’t know if you noticed the use of two different oils 5/20 and a 5/30
Do you manage an Amoil group on FB? Past dealer and current customer for 30 years.
Nice video
so if i purchase the amsoil flush do you recommend it flushing it with the old dirty oil then draining the old oil plush the amsoil flush then new oil then drain then new oil ?
I love using flushes, especially on vehicles that are new to me. But im nervous about residual flush lingering in the engine, so I always do a second oil change with dirt cheap oil after the flush to make sure I get 99% of it out, then put the synthetic in.
If your engine is clean, the brand new oil will remain the same color/get a burnt honey color after 15 min. My 95 corvette with 125k has had the same oil for about 5000 miles (about a year) and is not terribly discolored.
Good video! The first oil from the initial oil change could have been a bench mark too.
The oil left in the engine’s oil galleries will contribute to darkening the fresh oil + engine flush. A better procedure would be to 1) drain oil change the oil/filter and run for 15 mins, 2) drain oil and change oil/filter again! this time adding the engine flush, run again for 15 mins 3) drain it, another new filter and add oil of choice. If the engine oil on 3rd drain comes out as dark as your video then the engine flush has truly liberated the solids from the crankcase. Further, most oil filters hold a half a quart of oil so it has to be changed out whenever the oil is dropped as per above.
You sold me on the stuff. Can't wait to try it. Thanks!
Is it too aggressive in that it removes sludge and build up, but maybe some of that sludge and build up is what's keeping things sealed? I have a high mileage vehicle, 400k .. Not sure if I should try this .
I'm not sure? Look at my most recent video. I use it on a 300,000Km cummins. No leaks so far.
Dude im amazed you can even get the oil to read on a expedition oil stick lol
That being said, im on 10K on AMSOIL synthetic signature series and mine so far been amazing. Use 5w-30 if you're worried about your phasers, it does quiet it down. But ultimately, its the pumps that are too weak and need a high flow installed. But truth be told, the 5w-30 amsoil made all the difference in the world on mine, and im at 152k right now.
I highly recommend using Amsoil oils as well. Change your oil every 6 to 12 months. You will get what you pay for and its long engine life.
You should look at the AMSOIL EA oil filter. The are capable of lasting from 15,000 to 25,000 miles! I have done that for over a decade....
This is a great effort. Like several of the other viewers, I would have liked to have seen what the plain Valvoline after 15 minutes, then the Valvoline + AMSOIL product after 15 minutes looks like.
Exactly!
Correct, but a 15 min idle will not change the oil color, even when mixed with the remaining oil that did not drain (which also was relatively light)
What I wanted to see was for him to cut open the filter, that's what would have shown if crazy amount of debris was there or not
Valvoline is a great oil. Advanced and high mileage formula have stellar ad packs. Change your oil at 4-5k, no worries. Don't ever fall for Amsoil 10-20k mileage oil change. That's pure bologna, meant for the sheep
What color is the Amsoil going in? That could be everything right there.
Not a bad test. The only thing I would have done different would have been to first plush it with new oil. This way it would have picked up any residual oil that is still in the engine. After that I would have changed the oil again and then do the flush like you did.
That was the best test I have seen so far. Thank you
Michael Reardon thank you! I just made a better one. Check it out on my channel 👍🏻
Do you know that you cant drain old oil fully?
Engine flush caused the new oil to change color. Next test, mix the flush with new oil and watch the mixed solution darken in color.
I don't think the flush itself will cause the new oil to darken.
Very decent test. It would of been a perfect test if you just put the fresh oil in. Run it for 15 mins. Suck it out, for 1 sample, than compare it with Amsoil Flush result, than compare it with the new oil. Total of 3 samples of comparison.
I did this on a duramax with 434k and one with 250k . Both trucks dropped tar and dip stick had been cleaner then any diesel I ve ever seen including year old trucks
Awesome idea for a flush comparison. Thanks for doing it. 👍🏻
Unfortunately, assuming dirty engine oil means the product cleaned isn't good enough. I accidentally poured a brand new jut of Mobil 1 into my Suburban and ran it for a minute. The oil was the wrong weight so I drained it. It came out as dirty as any oil change I've ever done.
With fresh oil it hasnt been ran with the heat of the vehicle try it like evryone is saying run it with fresh oil drain it and do ur flush c if the color change is the same if so wat did the flush actually remove??
Awesome review and experiment, thanks!
Was the used oil actually less viscous or was it still hot when you compared?
Thanks man, thats good enough evidence. Actually my concern with these flushes is that they seem to work so much, that they could even clog stuff up inside of the engine due to all the debris floating around. Using new oil and filter should be mandatory. Maybe read the bottle for us and tell us if it’s part of the instructions?
Exactly correct. If the engine is that bad inside leave it alone or it could become worse loosening stuff up. If it not bad...well...it's fine and also should be left alone LoL.
Lube Guard heavy duty flush is about the same. I change the filter and run it another 15 mins.
Could you leave the Amsoil flush in for a few hundred miles so the product really gets to work. I feel 15min is insufficient time for a good cleaning. Seafoam for example is a leave in cleaner they look to be about the same viscosity.
No way buddy. The detergents and surfactants in the Amsoil flush severely compromise the lubricity and protection of the oil. Driving/loading the motor with that in would really hurt/destroy things. Sea foam is totally different, and thats why you can leave it in.
Great video. Any plans for running the flush for longer then the recommended 15 min when u do your other truck?
I ran it for over 30 minutes in my 6.0 Diesel, but since the oil is black I got nothing for another video ;-)
@@AquaticLogic NO JOKE.
If I get my diesel oil change on my hands it's like ink. Got to soak them in hot soapy water for half hour to get it off
Make sure you guys only run it for 15 minutes. Don't be like a "friend" of mine and do it for longer and the next thing you know a seal is leaking.
Yep, always follow instructions. Those also say that on old cars a flush can do more damage than good as gunk is what prevents leakage in cracked seals. Once the gunk is gone, the gaskets alone no longer seal and bam, you have to take the engine apart.
What color is the amsoil engine flush have to consetter that also ! That oil u pored out of the clear container that has the amsoil engine flush also looks way thinner than the clean oil also ! Maybe mix the amsoil engine flush and clean oil and don't run it at all and compare ?
Good video but I would add that even when you do an oil change, you still don't get it all out. So, when you fill it back up with clean oil you will have some residual dirty oil mixing with the clean new oil. This will inevitably darken the color to some degree. I do think the flushes work, but I think the majority of the "dirtiness" coloring you are seeing is due to remaining old dirty oil mixing with clean new oil.
Sounded like the phasers was already tacking. But good maintenance is the key to them 5.4 3v
That was injectors you were hearing. They do have a nice "ticking" sound. Phasers give off a "rattle" and I hope I never hear it ;-) I'm hoping the Archoil AR9100 really helps me out that way.
Great Video!!!!! Oh Gosh...That got me laughing!!! LOL Really Sweet BMW M3 by the way!!!!!!!!!
I hope you used amsoil oil as the new oil for your vehicle.. I only use Amsoil in my vehicles, it's the real deal.!
carlos estrada I’m actually not a huge Amsoil fan, because of the price, and how difficult it is to find. I typically buy top-tier synthetics when they go on-sale at my local auto parts store. This oil change I used Castrol Edge Extended performance and added in Archoil AR9100 and change it every 10,000km (6213 Miles).
@@AquaticLogic i understand your reasons. I order it online and get it with free delivery and i also think is expensive compared with other popular brands, but honestly in my experience it is completely worth every penny. See before Amsoil i used to use mobile, pennzoil and castrol. But the day i decided to give Amsoil a try. I realized how important the oil quality is for an engine.. The car that showed a huge difference in performance and driving was my smart car fortwo wich turned into a different car after i changed the engine and transmission oil in it.. And the only thing i can say to anyone is give it a try and decide for yourself.
@@AquaticLogic if you get the annual amsoil signature series its actually cheaper and you change it once a year or every 20k miles
Nice Video! I like Amsoil products, and the flush I believe it can works, but only for not solid carbon deposit.
When you finish this procedure, don't forget change the oil filter again.
Rivera Millers Thanks. I used a Wix XP filter, Castrol Syntech 0w-20, and Archoil AR9100, after the flush.
Perhaps the Amsoil product turns dark when heated, leading to false results? Try putting some on the stove and comparing the colour to fresh additive just to make sure it isn't just the product turning dark.
First, put the oil cap back on before starting the engine. Also, remember that there is always some old oil trapped inside the engine that will immediately make the new oil slightly darker. I believe this is what Daniel C is prompting in his comment below.
First, pay attention to the oil he removed before flush
First, the remaining oil would not make a difference because if first point
First, be doesnt need to close his oil cap if he don't want to
Is it cleaning or just changing the color ? How do we prove that ?
Thank you for your effort. Great video.
Should have run the engine with the fresh oil 15 min and pulled a sample. Then added the flush run for 15 and pull sample. If the old oil was pretty dirty or plenty of "sludge" in the engine. Just the fresh oil would free up alot. In that case, the "flush" might not have been significantly more effective.
I did exactly that in my last video. Go check it out.
I would run it on new oil, take a sample, then add the flush and take another sample on the same oil.
Engines always retain about 0.5-1 L of oil after you drain it. That's enough to contaminate fresh oil and make it look dark.
To get complete clear oil you would have to change the oil at least twice with new oil, the third change would be clear oil.
Thats a lot of oil... But your right flushing it with fresh oil at least once would be better.