Thank you. I am working with a knucklehead who thinks he knows what he is doing but causing me more problems. Your videos helped me fix his arrogant errors.
Working on my 94 Suburban...Great job with 4pt series Keith and Kevin. Edited well enough with out a bunch of BS we dont need to see, good details about cleanliness and wrench sizes short cuts, etc. Nice work
THANK YOU!!! Best video on 90s K series Chev. Pickup power steering pump on UA-cam !!! Suggestion, shorten, simplify and standardize video titles, makes them easier to search.
Nice ,I will use this when I do mine going to get pulley puller today thank god for Harbor Freight and good guys like this to take the time to share this much needed info for DIY ers like myself.💪
Be sure to run a tap into the front of the shaft first to clean out the threads. Lots of dirt gets in there over the years making it difficult to thread the tool in when putting the pulley back on
GM discontinued that part years ago, you might have to go to pull and save (local junk yard) for that "rear pump support bracket" as its considered a "hard part." Good news is that bracket was used with any TBI 4.3L, 5.0, 5.7L RPO code LB4, LO3, LO5. /K&K
very good step by step video, pump on my 98 chevy truck was replaced about year and half ago, I don't feel confident that the guy properly flused everything,....it's now howling, I'm wondering if I flush and bleed the box and pump , would that help? or would I be wasting my time, it's not a loud howl. thanks again for the video.
In some cases a flush can help a minor noise complaint, but it won't fix minor/major internal pump damage caused by contaminated fluid quality. You can pull a fluid sample from the pump and inspect it closely. If he rushed the flush the fluid will smell burnt and the fluid will look similar to the fluid we flushed out in this video. Did they diagnosis why the power steering pump failed in the first place? /K&K
no diagnosis was done, cannot remember what it was even doing, but this one I can hear a quiet howling when driving about 35mph, it steers fine, thanks again for your input and the helpful videos, have a great weekend.
How do you tell if the pulley is lined up? On my 2nd pump now. First one i didn't tighten down enough and stripped a rib on the belt. Tightened it down all the way and pulley went to wabbling after a few days.
If you look down at the PS pump you can see the belt alignment between the alternator and crank pulley if its straight your good but if the pulley / belt is riding outward then you need to bring the PS pulley in a few more turns with the installation tool. As far as the wobbling goes its possible to install the pulley at an angle when you use the installation tool, or the pulley itself is warped. Sometimes during installation I will spin the pulley to make sure its seated correctly after a few turns of the installation tool and if at the point there's a wobble, I will remove the pulley again and start over. This part of the process can be difficult but the key is to make sure the pulley doesn't wobble after a few turns of the installation tool. /K&K
Yes ATF will overheat and foam up in these pumps. ATF and power steering fluid have different properties and heat ranges they work at. Your going need to flush that ATF out and reflush with Power Steering fluid. Those pumps are built to use Power Steering fluid. ATF will burn that pump down at some point if you don't flush it out now. Plus ATF will blow the seals in the steering box as well. /K&K
I flushed my atf out with power steering but I’m still getting the same problem, it seems smooth at first then when I am at idle rpm it’s hard to turn and as soon as I give some power it turns like it should, also it’s still getting hot. I drove the truck with atf for about 20min one day with atf but let it sit for a month before changing today. Any recommendations on what to do to get it to work properly or should I take my warranty and get a different pump
@@KNKRNR could the hard turning on low rpm mean I need to flush more or could my pump be damaged already from the atf, it was doing the same with atf as it is now with proper power steering
@@drakestonecipher1952 Have you ever changed the steering box? Being you had one pump go out and now having low rpm hard turning with a new pump it may the steering box has an issue or your steering stabilizer shock if equip could be seized up. It may explain why the fluid is getting hot if it is not flowing freely in and out of the steering box. I have seen good pumps, bad steering boxes or other steering components (ball joints, idler arms, tie rods or steering stabilizer shocks cause this very issue. Both types of fluid will serve the same PSI out of the pump at idle but the problem with ATF is it will kill your seals in the pump and steering box as Chevy designed this system to use hydraulic power steering fluid. You flushed the system so at this point it may be time to look at other parts of the system as listed above. I would start by disconnecting the steering stabilizer shock (mark the bracket location if needed) if so equipped and see if your low rpm power steering is returns to normal. Let me know if this information helps to resolve your concern. /K&K
You can also just turn the power steering pump pulley while you have the belt off.... keyword being while the belt is off if you somehow turned the engine over it would not be good for you.
On the TBI engine you will need to remove the power steering pump to remove the exhaust manifold. Depending on year there maybe be two bolts on the exhaust manifold on number 1 cylinder. Beside the puller to remove the pulley the rest is business as usual. /K&K
Yeah that's how long it took to flush that nasty fluid out. What people don't realize if you don't flush the system correctly you will just burn up the new pump. Maybe insane but my pump jobs don't fail because the fluid is contaminated. /K&K
Thank you. I am working with a knucklehead who thinks he knows what he is doing but causing me more problems. Your videos helped me fix his arrogant errors.
Working on my 94 Suburban...Great job with 4pt series Keith and Kevin. Edited well enough with out a bunch of BS we dont need to see, good details about cleanliness and wrench sizes short cuts, etc. Nice work
I got to hand it to you. This is the one MUST WATCH video series of how to do this job. Excellent Video Series!
THANK YOU!!! Best video on 90s K series Chev. Pickup power steering pump on UA-cam !!! Suggestion, shorten, simplify and standardize video titles, makes them easier to search.
Great suggestion!
/K&K
Great video! I like how you shoes the complete process step by step!! 👍
Nice ,I will use this when I do mine going to get pulley puller today thank god for Harbor Freight and good guys like this to take the time to share this much needed info for DIY ers like myself.💪
The proper tool do make all the difference with this repair. Thanks for watching!
/K&K
Great video series! Superb instruction and video footage of each step! Thanks much, gonna attempt the job this weekend!
Be sure to run a tap into the front of the shaft first to clean out the threads. Lots of dirt gets in there over the years making it difficult to thread the tool in when putting the pulley back on
Thx for the time you committed to make this video. Thorough enough and good detailed explanations.
Thank you for your awesome comment!
/K&K
Any idea what the P/N for the steel alternator support is? Previous owner screwed up the one that's in the vehicle now.
GM discontinued that part years ago, you might have to go to pull and save (local junk yard) for that "rear pump support bracket" as its considered a "hard part." Good news is that bracket was used with any TBI 4.3L, 5.0, 5.7L RPO code LB4, LO3, LO5.
/K&K
very good step by step video, pump on my 98 chevy truck was replaced about year and half ago, I don't feel confident that the guy properly flused everything,....it's now howling, I'm wondering if I flush and bleed the box and pump , would that help? or would I be wasting my time, it's not a loud howl. thanks again for the video.
In some cases a flush can help a minor noise complaint, but it won't fix minor/major internal pump damage caused by contaminated fluid quality. You can pull a fluid sample from the pump and inspect it closely. If he rushed the flush the fluid will smell burnt and the fluid will look similar to the fluid we flushed out in this video. Did they diagnosis why the power steering pump failed in the first place?
/K&K
no diagnosis was done, cannot remember what it was even doing, but this one I can hear a quiet howling when driving about 35mph, it steers fine, thanks again for your input and the helpful videos, have a great weekend.
How do you tell if the pulley is lined up? On my 2nd pump now. First one i didn't tighten down enough and stripped a rib on the belt. Tightened it down all the way and pulley went to wabbling after a few days.
If you look down at the PS pump you can see the belt alignment between the alternator and crank pulley if its straight your good but if the pulley / belt is riding outward then you need to bring the PS pulley in a few more turns with the installation tool. As far as the wobbling goes its possible to install the pulley at an angle when you use the installation tool, or the pulley itself is warped. Sometimes during installation I will spin the pulley to make sure its seated correctly after a few turns of the installation tool and if at the point there's a wobble, I will remove the pulley again and start over. This part of the process can be difficult but the key is to make sure the pulley doesn't wobble after a few turns of the installation tool.
/K&K
I used atf cause it’s what I had I flushed for about 45min and my pump has been working but getting hot could it be the atf?
Yes ATF will overheat and foam up in these pumps. ATF and power steering fluid have different properties and heat ranges they work at. Your going need to flush that ATF out and reflush with Power Steering fluid. Those pumps are built to use Power Steering fluid. ATF will burn that pump down at some point if you don't flush it out now. Plus ATF will blow the seals in the steering box as well.
/K&K
I flushed my atf out with power steering but I’m still getting the same problem, it seems smooth at first then when I am at idle rpm it’s hard to turn and as soon as I give some power it turns like it should, also it’s still getting hot. I drove the truck with atf for about 20min one day with atf but let it sit for a month before changing today. Any recommendations on what to do to get it to work properly or should I take my warranty and get a different pump
@@KNKRNR could the hard turning on low rpm mean I need to flush more or could my pump be damaged already from the atf, it was doing the same with atf as it is now with proper power steering
@@drakestonecipher1952 Have you ever changed the steering box? Being you had one pump go out and now having low rpm hard turning with a new pump it may the steering box has an issue or your steering stabilizer shock if equip could be seized up. It may explain why the fluid is getting hot if it is not flowing freely in and out of the steering box. I have seen good pumps, bad steering boxes or other steering components (ball joints, idler arms, tie rods or steering stabilizer shocks cause this very issue. Both types of fluid will serve the same PSI out of the pump at idle but the problem with ATF is it will kill your seals in the pump and steering box as Chevy designed this system to use hydraulic power steering fluid. You flushed the system so at this point it may be time to look at other parts of the system as listed above. I would start by disconnecting the steering stabilizer shock (mark the bracket location if needed) if so equipped and see if your low rpm power steering is returns to normal. Let me know if this information helps to resolve your concern.
/K&K
Did you need to remove the aluminum mount bracket ?
If the pump will slide out through the bottom there is no need to remove the aluminum bracket.
/K&K
You can also just turn the power steering pump pulley while you have the belt off.... keyword being while the belt is off if you somehow turned the engine over it would not be good for you.
Do I need to take off my power steering pump in order to take off my exhaust manifold?
On the TBI engine you will need to remove the power steering pump to remove the exhaust manifold. Depending on year there maybe be two bolts on the exhaust manifold on number 1 cylinder. Beside the puller to remove the pulley the rest is business as usual.
/K&K
Good job!
Flushing for an hour?!??! You’re insane.
Yeah that's how long it took to flush that nasty fluid out. What people don't realize if you don't flush the system correctly you will just burn up the new pump. Maybe insane but my pump jobs don't fail because the fluid is contaminated.
/K&K