14.Jan.24 UPDATE: ⭐⭐⭐upgrade the firmware!!! ⭐⭐⭐fixes the first layer issue!!!!! and also check my FOLLOW up video: ua-cam.com/video/XOCiXkH7p18/v-deo.html also: with the new fw (1.0.12) you can "root" the device, then install the official UNLOCKED klipper and add MAINSAIL UI to this printer (and have things like Orca Wifi Print avail!) Price: 284€ with code: ⭐ NNNDEV3KE ⭐ 🛒Product: www.geekbuying.com/go/8HlOymc5 (afilliate) Creality Rainbow filament: www.geekbuying.com/go/8JqPWYGu
1.0.12 I have same problem. Z offset counting like shit, I spend three days on it and have same problem. I made small shimps with 0.1 step and leveled the bed as much as I can to make leveling more easier for system... And now its even worse. My ideas and knowledges in 3d printer ends here. Totally disappointed with my first 3d printer. Better to pay a little more for prusa or bamboo even
@@whoarewenow that sounds bad, your first printer shouldn't do that to you ;) Try the mainsail installation. Also read thru this videos comment, a lot of guys recommended fastening every screw as some where loose upon delivery...
I had around 0.2mm with a pretty comparable negative on the opposite corner. So I printed a one layer spacer out of petg. Placed it under the factory spacer on the negative corner. It’s pretty close to perfect now.
I had to print some spacers for my K1. Saw this awesome tutorial from another 3D printer guy. K1 was supposed to level it self as well but needed some spacers ;)
Great image from your YI . Now to make a decision on which one to buy. Thank you for your reviews I'll be re watching them to help make my decision. Hope your flying weather improves.
It’s sunny but really cold. Maybe I’ll test some DJI air3 nd filters today, from inside my car, with heating ;) Not much snow tho, so not the images I want…
I’ve modded the little Yi cam btw. You can re focus it to have close focus. Stock they only focus at 1m… Als I could install a hacked software so it also acts as an normal ip cam, avoiding the cloud yi app (which is now also packed with temu adds)
the temperature plays a role and it's worth it, but the table below with the sticks has some oscillations, small gaps, this can be fixed, but it's worth buying, tangible older models
Really enjoying your very thorough review of the KE! all the pros and cons to be considered. I'm having a very! hard time deciding what will be my 2nd and final printer. I'm not any kind of expert with 3d printing, just a hobbyist, who likes to make functional things. I'm still using my tricked out anet A8 from 2017 with all the recommended upgrades from thingiverse and using marlin, but am tired of tinkering so want to finally get something that has a newer modern interface and auto bed leveling, thought the KE was the one! but youtube reviewers keep sending me different directions and makes. This is So Hard, lol, I can't seem to find one that has everything I want in one package. But your review is really helping me with my decision making. I think the KE probably would be fun and ok, just not with a little bigger build volume, guess I can't have it all. lol Thanks again!! 😂 You are very good at what you do and way beyond me with 3D printers if you could only have one printer? which would you choose thanks my friend😊
Hi, that’s hard ;) but with all the options you can’t go completely wrong ;) Currently I’m curious for the new Ender 3 v3 (the silver grey on that’s on presale). The Ender 3 v3 ke here is also good now. Reliable tpu printer for me (since I have now my 6th printer, each of them has its own filament) Currently I’m testing the artillery x4 plus. A large one, now with Klipper and wifi. This one has good hardware, but needs some software tuning. To early to say if I can suggest this beast. Costs the same as the ender 3 v3, has a massive build volume. So obviously if cou can have only one printer is has to be a large one (if you need to print large).
This is my first printer. I went down the rabbit hole and found my first layer issues are most likely caused by a location bias of the CR-Touch probe on the Y axis. Basically the measured probe z-offset (distance between probe and nozzle) is different at the rear and the front of the bed by 0.08 for me. Anything above 0.025 and the probe is unusable according to the Klipper documentation. Sadly there is no software solution for this yet, only for the X axis (called Axis Twist Compensation in Klipper). If you still have this machine and the time, could you do the "Location Bias Check" under the probe calibration section in the Klipper documentation? I think a lot of us have first layer issues due to ABL not working correctly because of this probing issue. Would be nice if a UA-camr could shine some light on it.
Wow, great effort and comment for someone who’s new in the hobby! Welcome! I will read thru the Klipper doc you mentioned and try it. Have you seen my 2nd video about the Ender 3v3?
@@Rcschim Ah, I see you fixed the issue by updating the firmware and installing Mainsail. I already have those. I think the issue will be mechanical. Likely there is a twist in the motion of the bed when it travels from front to back and vice versa. This causes the nozzle to probe distance to change. Right now I'm looking into probe options that would bring the probe closer to the nozzle, like the Euclid Probe. I'd have to come up with some mounting model though, as I can't find one for the V3 KE or the K1 which supposedly has the same hotend as the V3 KE. Having the silicone sock on the nozzle doesn't help either.
I got one of these a few days ago and it's been great out of the box. My bed mesh is slightly worse than yours with larger variance, but I've had no problems with prints not sticking or with excess elephant's foot. It's probably not perfect and I haven't done a full sheet test, but I've printed objects that use the whole bed and had great adhesion. I do still kind of wish that it still had manual leveling knobs to help flatten the bed some, but otherwise as a "turn on and print" experience it's been perfect.
Thanks for the feedback. As another commenter here wrote he sanded the Posts (gantry pillars) I will doble check, that my gantry is screwed in tight on both sides - maybe I did a sloppy job here on the assembly... Good to hear others have a great experience with this printer!
Hi, nice and useful review ! It happens exactly the same to mine. Z-offset is not calculated correctly. I need to adjust it by 0.1mm. I usually perform a bed levelling and auto z-offset from time to time. Then I edit manually the z-offset adjusting it by 0.1mm. (i.e. we get z-offset of -2.73 then edit it and set it up to -2.83). And when sending models to the printer, avoid performing the bed levelling option, otherwise it will override the z-offset again.
same here (being impressed). When I first tested the stock firmware and connected to SSH - it was slow - so I wasnt sure if additional stuff runs on this chip. but apperantly it does. However - for faster prints I still prefer the coreXY printers - no failed prints there because of adhesion problems when going crazy fast... :)
Im into RC airplanes and happily ran a heavily modified Ender3 V2 for a while. I had my heart set on the V3 KE, but for a little more, I got the K1 and just set it up today with really good initial results. I'll convert the old V2 to run the creality 10W laser for cutting balsa, etc.
I went with the Creality 10W laser, lots of good reviews, is inexpensive, and it's a modular, bolt-on solution. I haven't played with slicing yet on the new machine. I use Prusa and Cura based on the profiles recommended by each airplane designer. So, I'll probably have to keep a usb stick handy!
Never used a glass bed. So far only those textured pei sheets and the flasforge has a smooth surface one. Gives less adhesion but nicer finish on the prints surface (good if you print something upside down). The new Ender v3 (without ke or se) looks promising as well!
Ive had the printer for three days and it worked great. The nozzle started digging into the bed when I started a print job after one finished successfully. Reset the printer settings and it fails on auto level. So I can’t get by the auto level now. A new bed and pressure gauge is being shipped to me. No stock in North America I’m told and it’s a 15 day shipment from China. Key 3000 unknown error followed by z axis transmission anomaly. Interesting looking at the ssh connection. Although I’m sure doing that can’t let me skip an auto level. I do have a picture though of my first bed level results.
You can skip auto level if you upload the print and start it locally on the printer, just remove the check mark of calibration before the printing. Or else: use the Creality print software, but just to see the somewhat different web gui in their Details of the printer, there you can upload gcode, then print without calibration (on right click option that the normal webgui doesn’t show…)
@@RcschimThanks for your reply, but since I reset my printer It’s stuck on the first setup procedure like when you first get it out of the box and set it up.
@@lukebraddford3287 mine was stuck after booting, I thought I’m clever, changed the number of auto leveling points. From 5x5 to 9x9. The only solution was: going in the Linux shell and changing the cfg file back. Maybe it helps you too, if you access the Linux shell, you can try to replace your current printer.cfg with the factory settings one. Or you can try to reset to factory settings from the screen?
I noticed that my Ender 3 v3 SE prints are slant. I checked the printer's alignment and noticed that the z axis is not square (it is tilted backwards). I found a y-axis support kit to install on Aliexpress. There are also some options on thingverse. I'm still deciding which option I'm going to test. Any thoughts?
I am having the exact same issue with my V3 KE. tall cylindrical objects in particular, they come out slanted by 1-2mm and don't stand straight. it's definitely not a levelling problem because I have manually levelled it and automatically levelled it. if you have fixed this problem, please let me know. thanks
You can add your machine to Orca to send the file directly and print without having to go to the machine. Simply click on the WiFi symbol next to your printer name at the top left and put in your printer IP address. That's it, now you don't have to jump back and forth to the browser
@@vikkidyer if your printer has Klipper already you don't need to do anything, just put in the IP. Technically that would be Klipper with Mainsail and Fluidd, which manages the U.I. and network If it doesn't then you would have to get a Klipper kit, usually around $130. They have directions built in to convert your printer BTT Pad 7 or Sonic Pad are good ones
@MrHeHim hi thanks for your reply. I only have the nebula pad that it came with and it has a creality version of klipper but not the full version. I'm still new to 3d printing, I only got my first printer at Xmas so I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. Xx
Could you try a 22x22cm 1 layer high print? I'd be curious if it looks better on your printer! (If it does, your bed mesh values would also be interesting!
@@RcschimI sanded my posts with 600 wet dry sandpaper until it was flat as I too was annoyed with first layer and now it is 0.05 mm difference from lowest to highest but I will print a single layer sheet right now and let you know when it is done how well it went
@@Drone-Pilot sounds like a good solution! what posts do you mean? the 2 vertical profiles that hold the z axis? Or the little ~2cm distance cylinders under the bed? Dont think we should have to do this honestly. Why the heck doesn't the Bed mesh compensate my ~ +-0.5mm of unevenness in the bed? I will try to contact creality to see if they have an idea. I did confim, that a totally faulty BED mesh will spoil my print. but on the other hand the "good" bed mesh - didnt really improve it. Maybe it's just some in-accurate measurements (because this is a budget printer) - or a software bug in their klipper settings?
@@Rcschimthe actual black posts, I sanded them very lightly each time, put them back one by one, it quite a process because you wait for the bed to heat up and stay warm for a few mins then do a bed level check and sand a touch again, every sanding was minute, and a slow process but I’m r3ally happy with it now because 50-80c is the best temperature range for the flattest result
@@RcschimI just checked my lowest point to the highest point is 0.1581mm at 60c it’s drifted a little but still ok, doing a single layer single pass flat print to see how it goes
Thank you for your rewiev! Seems like the old issue with Creality bed levelling is still still there. I have old Ender 3 upgraded with latest mother board and Creality levelling censor and noted the same issue, it cannot correct bed levelling enought. As old Ender the bed worbed and seems even with bed levelling adhesion at the corners or in the midlle of the bed is not good. How about the linear bearings under the bed? Is this known issue already fixed in your printer? Or is it still wobling?
This is true of my ke. Auto leveling and Z offset does not work like it should and never has. The bed is too far skewed and Auto Z offset is always .05 too high.
@@Lensman64 I intend to leave my old ender 3 with direct exturuder for TPU printing. i thing I will make linear rail mod for bed because the old rollers at alu extrusion is not acurate enought. So i have been thinking to invest few euros more and get K1C printer. After studies Core xy have all the time same kinetic forces and bed sligers don´t. This means imfo the case for klipper software to have same forces in x and y all the time. Weight of part doesn´t effect on forces, this will mean one factor is eliminated. I think KE is very good printer for beginner how wants try first time 3d-printing. Waayy better than original ender 3! And if you enjoy your new hobby you can have better printer.
You mean in slicer settings rather than Klipper. In Orca for example, if there is no preset of your printer with the different nozzle, you would just edit the settings of you normal printer and save it with a new name (eg Printername 0.6mm)
I often have to chose between them both (since they sit next to each to each other on the shelves ;) Normally I have tpu in the Ender, and that’s now what I mainly use it for (small tpu parts for my drones). The Ender is also super convenient since it’s open Klipper with wifi Print. So easy to start a job here. The flash on the other hand is a real pro device. Seldom failing even on complex jobs or filaments, good quality, fast. Those Corexy printers can print fast because the bed doesn’t need to move back and forth like on the Ender. The downside of the flash is currently that the wifi print doesn’t always work and you need a special version of orca (which some of my viewers have issues even getting). This should be fixed since Jan, but flash is slow on softer dev. If you decide to buy either of these printers, please consider using the afilliate link from my review so it helps me a bit. The flash is also really cheap now with 486€ if I remember right. Including a cam!
Normally all kinds. Local usb connected or wifi ip cams. They just forgot to add one service in this version of Mainsail I think. As I said, funny enough my ip cam is set up, but doesn't show in the gui but octoeverywhere notifying has images from the cam ;)
✅Yi Home camera IP Cam works cuts.top/DFSO To be able to use the cam as a normal ip cam you need to install custom firmware tho (Yi hack) And my ArtyX3 yi homecamera mount: urlc.net/vWCi I’m sure you can adapt the mount for your printer…
I'm having a few issues with that KE. I can't figure out how to set the speed to 500mm/s as the Creality Print app only allows speeds between 100-300mm/s. Additionally, I'm encountering another problem where the models aren't adhering to the table. I calibrated the table initially because there was a difference of 0.54 when I received it. I've since adjusted the plastic bushings, bringing it down to 0.08, which is almost perfectly flat. I've also cleaned the table with IPA. However, despite these efforts, the printed objects still detach, even from the beginning. I'm using both Creality PLA filament and ProGraphene PLA. I've tried adjusting the table temperature (30-60) and the head temperature (190-230), but nothing seems to work. Do you have any ideas on how to fix this issue?
Few general tips: Use Orca Slicer (at first it looks a bit complicated, but there are tutorials and you learn quickly how to use it. For example the max printing speed is determined by the filament FLOW settings (how many cubic mm per sec), even if you set speed to 500, you also need to adjust filament settings to allow about 20-30 cubic mm. But your other issue: bed adhesion - I intentionally slowed down the printer - since a „bed slinger“ as I said in my vid, moves the masses quite roughly - so there‘s always a chance to loose adherence. Tip: as you said: enough bed temp (50° min for PLA). Maybe additionally some 3d spray. Use the PEI sheet (a rough surface is always good). Make a 1st layer restoring (with low speeds) to see if you 1st layer look good (crucial for adhesion!). There is this economic 1st layer test (which just prints a few squares and not the full bed. If this 1st layer is poor - have you done the latest firmware update? But in the end - don‘t print too fast with the bed slinger. Fast printing seems to be important - but it isn‘t. How many times is your printer just sitting there doing nothing? To print faster you can also change the nozzle to 0.6mm - this gives drastically shorter print times!
@@Rcschim Great tips, thank you. I also use Cura, so I'll check out Orca as well. I ran a test (Creality Print -> Calibration -> Flow Rate Pass1) and indeed, when I add +15 / +20, the first layer looks denser. For bed adhesion in tests, I used hairspray, but so far, I don't see a difference. But regarding the rough bed, I have the standard black one that you use in the video. Is it worth changing to another one or to a mirror bed? Currently, I have the bed temperature set to 60 for the entire print. Is it worth setting it to 80 for the first layer and then 60 or 50 for the rest of the print? I've had the latest version V1.1.0.12 for 2 weeks now. I noticed that after calibrating the Z-offset, it's automatically set too low. Usually, I get 3.09 to 3.16 and the print fails, but now I manually entered 3.26 and the print is more flattened on the first layer and holds really well. I think this was the main problem. The first test leveling bed (simple snake) looks really nice now. It's hard to detach with a fingernail, whereas previously it would just come off by itself. Now I can work on speeding up according to your tips. Thanks
sorry, your comment was in spam... if you're on fw 1.1.012 and the bed level is still crap - something is wrong. Check all the screws. Also: I upgraded fw + did the mainsail linux thing - did you also try this? maybe not the firmware but the mainsail installation fixed the first layer issue I had? pla: higher than 60 isnt neccesary (or maybe harmful?) if the manual ZOffset trick works for you, just leave it that way. maybe do as I did in my initial review: add -0.17 (from -3.09 to -3.26) in the orca slicer (in the printer settings, ZOffset). This adds it to the already set value. just take care not to kill your printer :)
Finde ich ja schön das du mit englisch international verstanden werden möchtest, aber schade wiederum für die eignen Landsleute die nicht des Englisch mächtig sind.
I know exactly what you mean. I started making videos speaking in Portuguese (I'm from Brazil), then many people from other countries started showing up... I ended recording both in Portuguese and English... But it didn't work very well... So now I'm thinking about creating a second ch for English only and keep this one in Portuguese only. But we shall see... Anyway, difficult decisions. 😕
Hi Pixel, tut mir leid, wenn Dich mein Englisch nervt... Ich hab oft überlegt aber ich hab einfach zu viele Zuseher die brav jedes mal kommentieren (wie Mario aus Brazilien z.b) und grad den Aspekt an dem UA-cam-Hobby lieb ich so - das Internationale. Vielleicht hätte ich mittlerweile sogar mehr Views wenn ich Videos wie dieses auf DE machen würde...
>2024 >kann kein Englisch Warum? Du gehst in einen riesen Laden und sagst "alles was in plastik(englisch) verpackt ist ziehe ich nicht in Erwägung" Technische Dokumentation der Firmware,Slicer & Bauteile ist ebenfalls Englisch,man braucht das heutzutage schon und es ist nie zu spät was dazu zu lernen. Viel Erfolg
Creality being creality My s1 auto mesh is also useless, I only get good results making the whole mesh manually and it takes a lot of time. The probe is just acting like a glorified end stop
I think the S1 is the one with twisted X axis. Do the "Location Bias Check" under the probe calibration section in the Klipper documentation and check if you have problem on the X axis. If so, you can do the Axis Twist Compensation in the same documentation. Sadly it doesn't work for the Y axis.
I have not (wait for it) dipped my toes into resin printers yet ;) What makes them better for FPV? FPV and 3D Printing - mostly TPU comes to my mind (for mounts and drone parts).
No they aren’t. They aren’t suitable for majority of people of households emitting toxic fumes. If you are making miniatures sure but everything else sucks with resin printers.
They may print/look better but do your research on the toxicity factor. You may value the quality now but if you experience health related issues 30 years down the road you won't be very happy. Plus there are more steps like cleaning and curing which are a pain compared to FDM "print and go".
People don't know very well what the toxin does to the body. I wouldn't play with a resin printer unless I had a garage or a well-ventilated space dedicated to it.
The flashforge 5mpro is quite cheap for the quality it produces! But non of my printers is really silent. Of course the enclosed ones are a bit better, but best to have them in a separate room…
It's not cheap! It's the last desperate try from Creality to squeeze out the last drop of their hopeless old hardware (Rubberwheels? I beg you pardon. Bed warp of 0,8mm? Haha). Why should someone buy this hardware when he could buy a A1 Lite for the same price which is faster and has the option for AMS Lite? The people from Creality had their time but it's over now. They slept to long and now they try to sell printers by catchwords like "Klipper" and they hope that Inputshaper will solve the bad hardware for them. There is no more innovation to expect from Creality. So why should someone invest money in an old printer of a company that copys Opensource Projects and is not able to give something back to the community?
Wish we had access to other printers but for some creality is their only option haha, they said they will be releasing the open source klipper by mid jan
Isn’t the a1 mini around 500€? I agree that bambu printers look more advanced innovative than Creality ;) For the bad level, I will check if the gantry screws are evenly thighs, maybe a sloppy job on installation caused these values? Their behaviour with Klipper is doubtable, but after some pressure they at least give up and let us in ;) In terms of software the k1 for example is my best printer. Next to it stands the flash forge 5mpro, hardware better, almost bambu like, but software also not there yet. Cannot even send print jobs over orca wifi. But they promised to do this update soon… Definitly getting interesting this year! Still think these printers got to a really attractive price battle ;)
Yep, my flash forge review is doing way worse in terms of views on my channel since it’s not so well known…. Even tho they are around the 3d printing world since ages…
I had the original Tevo tarantula. Never got it to work and threw it out the window and left 3D printing. Finally came back after I finished college… I think I’ll pay the extra money to save the headache of zeroing all the axis and reprogramming and coding. That printer minus as well have came with an operator certification course and programming certification. 😂
@@user-2df90a0z1 I also had those fears (having to tinker around too much with these printers) before I got into this hobby last year. the Ender 3s1pro was a good setup unit used from a friend. worked great - and then even better after I tinkered around too much (installing klipper on a linux VM). but in the end it was a good learning experience for me. Now I love those things and can appreciate the "turnkey" ones way more! If you got the cash (and they get cheaper), check bambulabs. they seem to do really good. the flashforge (find my review a few videos back) is also doing really good without expecting a lot of modding. just turn on and print. (min prints right now in the background btw). The Ender 3v3ke is 100$ cheaper but with some disadvantages... but it's also not that bad.
thank you for the nice video introduction. can you tell how to set cura for this printer? or do you prefer another slicer? thank you for the answer. you are a good help to the community
you're welcome! I've started using orca slicer a while ago and never went back to cura, prusa or ... with latest orca you have presets of the printer already available, also a good set of filaments. first it can be a bit weird where orca has it's options hidden - but after a few video tutorials (I think teaching tech did a good orca intro) it's really working well. plus you have those really nice wireless printing options if you also install the mainsail / fluidd klipper version (which I've shown in the followup of this one here). increases the value of this printer by a lot!
14.Jan.24 UPDATE: ⭐⭐⭐upgrade the firmware!!! ⭐⭐⭐fixes the first layer issue!!!!! and also check my FOLLOW up video: ua-cam.com/video/XOCiXkH7p18/v-deo.html
also: with the new fw (1.0.12) you can "root" the device, then install the official UNLOCKED klipper and add MAINSAIL UI to this printer (and have things like Orca Wifi Print avail!)
Price: 284€ with code: ⭐ NNNDEV3KE ⭐
🛒Product: www.geekbuying.com/go/8HlOymc5 (afilliate)
Creality Rainbow filament: www.geekbuying.com/go/8JqPWYGu
1.0.12 I have same problem. Z offset counting like shit, I spend three days on it and have same problem. I made small shimps with 0.1 step and leveled the bed as much as I can to make leveling more easier for system... And now its even worse. My ideas and knowledges in 3d printer ends here. Totally disappointed with my first 3d printer. Better to pay a little more for prusa or bamboo even
as I can understand problem maybe in that bed level tracking device.
btw hard reset doesn't work also
@@whoarewenow that sounds bad, your first printer shouldn't do that to you ;)
Try the mainsail installation.
Also read thru this videos comment, a lot of guys recommended fastening every screw as some where loose upon delivery...
Best arnold Schwarzenegger impressionist
Fantastic review, Mario! Thanks! 😃
But yeah, I'd still rather get the K1... 😬
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The end part when you used ssh to find the data files was the best part!
I had around 0.2mm with a pretty comparable negative on the opposite corner. So I printed a one layer spacer out of petg. Placed it under the factory spacer on the negative corner. It’s pretty close to perfect now.
I had to print some spacers for my K1. Saw this awesome tutorial from another 3D printer guy. K1 was supposed to level it self as well but needed some spacers ;)
Great image from your YI .
Now to make a decision on which one to buy. Thank you for your reviews I'll be re watching them to help make my decision. Hope your flying weather improves.
It’s sunny but really cold. Maybe I’ll test some DJI air3 nd filters today, from inside my car, with heating ;)
Not much snow tho, so not the images I want…
I’ve modded the little Yi cam btw. You can re focus it to have close focus. Stock they only focus at 1m…
Als I could install a hacked software so it also acts as an normal ip cam, avoiding the cloud yi app (which is now also packed with temu adds)
the temperature plays a role and it's worth it, but the table below with the sticks has some oscillations, small gaps, this can be fixed, but it's worth buying, tangible older models
Really enjoying your very thorough review of the KE!
all the pros and cons to be considered. I'm having a very! hard time deciding what will be my 2nd and final printer. I'm not any kind of expert with 3d printing, just a hobbyist, who likes to make functional things.
I'm still using my tricked out anet A8 from 2017 with all the recommended upgrades from thingiverse and using marlin, but am tired of tinkering so want to finally get something that has a newer modern interface and auto bed leveling, thought the KE was the one! but youtube reviewers keep sending me different directions and makes. This is So Hard, lol, I can't seem to find one that has everything I want in one package. But your review is really helping me with my decision making. I think the KE probably would be fun and ok, just not with a little bigger build volume, guess I can't have it all. lol Thanks again!! 😂
You are very good at what you do and way beyond me with 3D printers if you could only have one printer? which would you choose thanks my friend😊
Hi, that’s hard ;) but with all the options you can’t go completely wrong ;)
Currently I’m curious for the new Ender 3 v3 (the silver grey on that’s on presale).
The Ender 3 v3 ke here is also good now. Reliable tpu printer for me (since I have now my 6th printer, each of them has its own filament)
Currently I’m testing the artillery x4 plus. A large one, now with Klipper and wifi. This one has good hardware, but needs some software tuning. To early to say if I can suggest this beast. Costs the same as the ender 3 v3, has a massive build volume.
So obviously if cou can have only one printer is has to be a large one (if you need to print large).
This is my first printer. I went down the rabbit hole and found my first layer issues are most likely caused by a location bias of the CR-Touch probe on the Y axis. Basically the measured probe z-offset (distance between probe and nozzle) is different at the rear and the front of the bed by 0.08 for me. Anything above 0.025 and the probe is unusable according to the Klipper documentation. Sadly there is no software solution for this yet, only for the X axis (called Axis Twist Compensation in Klipper).
If you still have this machine and the time, could you do the "Location Bias Check" under the probe calibration section in the Klipper documentation? I think a lot of us have first layer issues due to ABL not working correctly because of this probing issue. Would be nice if a UA-camr could shine some light on it.
Wow, great effort and comment for someone who’s new in the hobby! Welcome!
I will read thru the Klipper doc you mentioned and try it. Have you seen my 2nd video about the Ender 3v3?
@@Rcschim Ah, I see you fixed the issue by updating the firmware and installing Mainsail. I already have those. I think the issue will be mechanical. Likely there is a twist in the motion of the bed when it travels from front to back and vice versa. This causes the nozzle to probe distance to change.
Right now I'm looking into probe options that would bring the probe closer to the nozzle, like the Euclid Probe. I'd have to come up with some mounting model though, as I can't find one for the V3 KE or the K1 which supposedly has the same hotend as the V3 KE. Having the silicone sock on the nozzle doesn't help either.
I got one of these a few days ago and it's been great out of the box. My bed mesh is slightly worse than yours with larger variance, but I've had no problems with prints not sticking or with excess elephant's foot. It's probably not perfect and I haven't done a full sheet test, but I've printed objects that use the whole bed and had great adhesion. I do still kind of wish that it still had manual leveling knobs to help flatten the bed some, but otherwise as a "turn on and print" experience it's been perfect.
Thanks for the feedback. As another commenter here wrote he sanded the Posts (gantry pillars) I will doble check, that my gantry is screwed in tight on both sides - maybe I did a sloppy job here on the assembly...
Good to hear others have a great experience with this printer!
Hi, nice and useful review !
It happens exactly the same to mine. Z-offset is not calculated correctly. I need to adjust it by 0.1mm. I usually perform a bed levelling and auto z-offset from time to time. Then I edit manually the z-offset adjusting it by 0.1mm. (i.e. we get z-offset of -2.73 then edit it and set it up to -2.83). And when sending models to the printer, avoid performing the bed levelling option, otherwise it will override the z-offset again.
It's fixed with the newest firmware!!! don't need to add zoffset manually anymore! perfect 1st layer just came out of my printer)
Yes!. I've tried it. Thank you
I have the KE and the k1 max. Both have klipper with fluidd all with orca slicer. Very impressed the KE can keep up with the k1.
same here (being impressed). When I first tested the stock firmware and connected to SSH - it was slow - so I wasnt sure if additional stuff runs on this chip. but apperantly it does.
However - for faster prints I still prefer the coreXY printers - no failed prints there because of adhesion problems when going crazy fast... :)
Im into RC airplanes and happily ran a heavily modified Ender3 V2 for a while. I had my heart set on the V3 KE, but for a little more, I got the K1 and just set it up today with really good initial results. I'll convert the old V2 to run the creality 10W laser for cutting balsa, etc.
Laser cutter is the next thing on my list ;) k1 was a good decision! Love it! Did you unlock it or are you ok with how it came ?
I went with the Creality 10W laser, lots of good reviews, is inexpensive, and it's a modular, bolt-on solution. I haven't played with slicing yet on the new machine. I use Prusa and Cura based on the profiles recommended by each airplane designer. So, I'll probably have to keep a usb stick handy!
@@Discopuss I should get an "Longer B2" with fairly large build (or cut) volume and 20W - excited to see how this machine works.
wow the speed, nice..... compare tomy ender 3 ,V2 you use a glass bed on it?
Never used a glass bed. So far only those textured pei sheets and the flasforge has a smooth surface one. Gives less adhesion but nicer finish on the prints surface (good if you print something upside down).
The new Ender v3 (without ke or se) looks promising as well!
Ive had the printer for three days and it worked great. The nozzle started digging into the bed when I started a print job after one finished successfully. Reset the printer settings and it fails on auto level. So I can’t get by the auto level now.
A new bed and pressure gauge is being shipped to me. No stock in North America I’m told and it’s a 15 day shipment from China. Key 3000 unknown error followed by z axis transmission anomaly.
Interesting looking at the ssh connection. Although I’m sure doing that can’t let me skip an auto level. I do have a picture though of my first bed level results.
You can skip auto level if you upload the print and start it locally on the printer, just remove the check mark of calibration before the printing.
Or else: use the Creality print software, but just to see the somewhat different web gui in their Details of the printer, there you can upload gcode, then print without calibration (on right click option that the normal webgui doesn’t show…)
@@RcschimThanks for your reply, but since I reset my printer It’s stuck on the first setup procedure like when you first get it out of the box and set it up.
@@lukebraddford3287 mine was stuck after booting, I thought I’m clever, changed the number of auto leveling points. From 5x5 to 9x9.
The only solution was: going in the Linux shell and changing the cfg file back.
Maybe it helps you too, if you access the Linux shell, you can try to replace your current printer.cfg with the factory settings one. Or you can try to reset to factory settings from the screen?
I noticed that my Ender 3 v3 SE prints are slant. I checked the printer's alignment and noticed that the z axis is not square (it is tilted backwards). I found a y-axis support kit to install on Aliexpress. There are also some options on thingverse. I'm still deciding which option I'm going to test. Any thoughts?
I am having the exact same issue with my V3 KE. tall cylindrical objects in particular, they come out slanted by 1-2mm and don't stand straight. it's definitely not a levelling problem because I have manually levelled it and automatically levelled it. if you have fixed this problem, please let me know. thanks
Hello, this is a really good review. By the way, are you using bridge setttings and if so can you share it with us :)
Thanks, I use the default settings that I found in Orca slicer.
So on my ke the printer head got clogged and the entire head is completely ruined... Where do you find replacements?
You can add your machine to Orca to send the file directly and print without having to go to the machine. Simply click on the WiFi symbol next to your printer name at the top left and put in your printer IP address. That's it, now you don't have to jump back and forth to the browser
hi do you have to root your printer to do this please x
@@vikkidyer if your printer has Klipper already you don't need to do anything, just put in the IP. Technically that would be Klipper with Mainsail and Fluidd, which manages the U.I. and network
If it doesn't then you would have to get a Klipper kit, usually around $130. They have directions built in to convert your printer
BTT Pad 7 or Sonic Pad are good ones
@MrHeHim hi thanks for your reply. I only have the nebula pad that it came with and it has a creality version of klipper but not the full version. I'm still new to 3d printing, I only got my first printer at Xmas so I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. Xx
My con is that when i set z ofset IT just prints a lol bit higher , IT ruins 1layer
Nice for the price
Thank you. Got one too. Could you please share your cura settings
I use Orca, and there I really just used the pre-set Ender 3v3ke settings. I just reduced the speeds and accelleration values by a bit...
You should really give Orca a try. I was using Creality Print and also Cura but just downloaded Orca and it's a much more intuitive GUI IMHO.
Hey Mario, I have the exact same model it’s great, I found a cura slicer machine file and it works a treat
Could you try a 22x22cm 1 layer high print? I'd be curious if it looks better on your printer! (If it does, your bed mesh values would also be interesting!
@@RcschimI sanded my posts with 600 wet dry sandpaper until it was flat as I too was annoyed with first layer and now it is 0.05 mm difference from lowest to highest but I will print a single layer sheet right now and let you know when it is done how well it went
@@Drone-Pilot sounds like a good solution! what posts do you mean? the 2 vertical profiles that hold the z axis? Or the little ~2cm distance cylinders under the bed?
Dont think we should have to do this honestly. Why the heck doesn't the Bed mesh compensate my ~ +-0.5mm of unevenness in the bed?
I will try to contact creality to see if they have an idea.
I did confim, that a totally faulty BED mesh will spoil my print. but on the other hand the "good" bed mesh - didnt really improve it.
Maybe it's just some in-accurate measurements (because this is a budget printer) - or a software bug in their klipper settings?
@@Rcschimthe actual black posts, I sanded them very lightly each time, put them back one by one, it quite a process because you wait for the bed to heat up and stay warm for a few mins then do a bed level check and sand a touch again, every sanding was minute, and a slow process but I’m r3ally happy with it now because 50-80c is the best temperature range for the flattest result
@@RcschimI just checked my lowest point to the highest point is 0.1581mm at 60c it’s drifted a little but still ok, doing a single layer single pass flat print to see how it goes
Thank you for your rewiev! Seems like the old issue with Creality bed levelling is still still there. I have old Ender 3 upgraded with latest mother board and Creality levelling censor and noted the same issue, it cannot correct bed levelling enought. As old Ender the bed worbed and seems even with bed levelling adhesion at the corners or in the midlle of the bed is not good. How about the linear bearings under the bed? Is this known issue already fixed in your printer? Or is it still wobling?
I don't use the KE for faster printing.... mainly have TPU in it and print small parts that I need. quality is ok.
This is true of my ke. Auto leveling and Z offset does not work like it should and never has. The bed is too far skewed and Auto Z offset is always .05 too high.
@@Lensman64 I intend to leave my old ender 3 with direct exturuder for TPU printing. i thing I will make linear rail mod for bed because the old rollers at alu extrusion is not acurate enought. So i have been thinking to invest few euros more and get K1C printer. After studies Core xy have all the time same kinetic forces and bed sligers don´t. This means imfo the case for klipper software to have same forces in x and y all the time. Weight of part doesn´t effect on forces, this will mean one factor is eliminated. I think KE is very good printer for beginner how wants try first time 3d-printing. Waayy better than original ender 3! And if you enjoy your new hobby you can have better printer.
Do you know how to change nozzle diameter in the klipper software i seem to be locked out from doing so,,,,thanks
You mean in slicer settings rather than Klipper. In Orca for example, if there is no preset of your printer with the different nozzle, you would just edit the settings of you normal printer and save it with a new name (eg Printername 0.6mm)
If you could choose between the ender 3 v3 ke and the flashforge 5m, which one would you choose and why?
I often have to chose between them both (since they sit next to each to each other on the shelves ;)
Normally I have tpu in the Ender, and that’s now what I mainly use it for (small tpu parts for my drones). The Ender is also super convenient since it’s open Klipper with wifi Print. So easy to start a job here.
The flash on the other hand is a real pro device. Seldom failing even on complex jobs or filaments, good quality, fast. Those Corexy printers can print fast because the bed doesn’t need to move back and forth like on the Ender.
The downside of the flash is currently that the wifi print doesn’t always work and you need a special version of orca (which some of my viewers have issues even getting). This should be fixed since Jan, but flash is slow on softer dev.
If you decide to buy either of these printers, please consider using the afilliate link from my review so it helps me a bit. The flash is also really cheap now with 486€ if I remember right. Including a cam!
thank you so much! i will be ordering shortly and will use one of your links.@@Rcschim
@Rcschim What kind of camera will work with Mainsail / Moonraker?
Normally all kinds. Local usb connected or wifi ip cams. They just forgot to add one service in this version of Mainsail I think. As I said, funny enough my ip cam is set up, but doesn't show in the gui but octoeverywhere notifying has images from the cam ;)
What's that webcam and mount for it please let me know.
✅Yi Home camera IP Cam works cuts.top/DFSO To be able to use the cam as a normal ip cam you need to install custom firmware tho (Yi hack)
And my ArtyX3 yi homecamera mount: urlc.net/vWCi
I’m sure you can adapt the mount for your printer…
I'm having a few issues with that KE. I can't figure out how to set the speed to 500mm/s as the Creality Print app only allows speeds between 100-300mm/s. Additionally, I'm encountering another problem where the models aren't adhering to the table. I calibrated the table initially because there was a difference of 0.54 when I received it. I've since adjusted the plastic bushings, bringing it down to 0.08, which is almost perfectly flat. I've also cleaned the table with IPA. However, despite these efforts, the printed objects still detach, even from the beginning. I'm using both Creality PLA filament and ProGraphene PLA. I've tried adjusting the table temperature (30-60) and the head temperature (190-230), but nothing seems to work. Do you have any ideas on how to fix this issue?
Few general tips:
Use Orca Slicer (at first it looks a bit complicated, but there are tutorials and you learn quickly how to use it.
For example the max printing speed is determined by the filament FLOW settings (how many cubic mm per sec), even if you set speed to 500, you also need to adjust filament settings to allow about 20-30 cubic mm.
But your other issue: bed adhesion - I intentionally slowed down the printer - since a „bed slinger“ as I said in my vid, moves the masses quite roughly - so there‘s always a chance to loose adherence.
Tip: as you said: enough bed temp (50° min for PLA). Maybe additionally some 3d spray. Use the PEI sheet (a rough surface is always good).
Make a 1st layer restoring (with low speeds) to see if you 1st layer look good (crucial for adhesion!). There is this economic 1st layer test (which just prints a few squares and not the full bed. If this 1st layer is poor - have you done the latest firmware update?
But in the end - don‘t print too fast with the bed slinger. Fast printing seems to be important - but it isn‘t. How many times is your printer just sitting there doing nothing?
To print faster you can also change the nozzle to 0.6mm - this gives drastically shorter print times!
@@Rcschim Great tips, thank you. I also use Cura, so I'll check out Orca as well. I ran a test (Creality Print -> Calibration -> Flow Rate Pass1) and indeed, when I add +15 / +20, the first layer looks denser. For bed adhesion in tests, I used hairspray, but so far, I don't see a difference. But regarding the rough bed, I have the standard black one that you use in the video. Is it worth changing to another one or to a mirror bed? Currently, I have the bed temperature set to 60 for the entire print. Is it worth setting it to 80 for the first layer and then 60 or 50 for the rest of the print? I've had the latest version V1.1.0.12 for 2 weeks now. I noticed that after calibrating the Z-offset, it's automatically set too low. Usually, I get 3.09 to 3.16 and the print fails, but now I manually entered 3.26 and the print is more flattened on the first layer and holds really well. I think this was the main problem. The first test leveling bed (simple snake) looks really nice now. It's hard to detach with a fingernail, whereas previously it would just come off by itself. Now I can work on speeding up according to your tips. Thanks
sorry, your comment was in spam...
if you're on fw 1.1.012 and the bed level is still crap - something is wrong. Check all the screws. Also: I upgraded fw + did the mainsail linux thing - did you also try this? maybe not the firmware but the mainsail installation fixed the first layer issue I had?
pla: higher than 60 isnt neccesary (or maybe harmful?)
if the manual ZOffset trick works for you, just leave it that way. maybe do as I did in my initial review: add -0.17 (from -3.09 to -3.26) in the orca slicer (in the printer settings, ZOffset). This adds it to the already set value. just take care not to kill your printer :)
Hello what slicer u using for ENDER 3 KE ? for me not works orca slicer or cura thanx for help
Orca 1.9.0 which is out since a few days.
What speeds were you able to achieve when printing with PETG ?
To my shame: didn't print petg yet on it. I guess it can print quite fast, will try it later.
btw. another way to bump print speed is increasing the nozzle size (if you don't need fine details). greets, Mario
@@Rcschim I might try that thanks
Finde ich ja schön das du mit englisch international verstanden werden möchtest, aber schade wiederum für die eignen Landsleute die nicht des Englisch mächtig sind.
I know exactly what you mean. I started making videos speaking in Portuguese (I'm from Brazil), then many people from other countries started showing up... I ended recording both in Portuguese and English... But it didn't work very well...
So now I'm thinking about creating a second ch for English only and keep this one in Portuguese only. But we shall see...
Anyway, difficult decisions. 😕
Hi Pixel, tut mir leid, wenn Dich mein Englisch nervt... Ich hab oft überlegt aber ich hab einfach zu viele Zuseher die brav jedes mal kommentieren (wie Mario aus Brazilien z.b) und grad den Aspekt an dem UA-cam-Hobby lieb ich so - das Internationale.
Vielleicht hätte ich mittlerweile sogar mehr Views wenn ich Videos wie dieses auf DE machen würde...
>2024
>kann kein Englisch
Warum? Du gehst in einen riesen Laden und sagst "alles was in plastik(englisch) verpackt ist ziehe ich nicht in Erwägung"
Technische Dokumentation der Firmware,Slicer & Bauteile ist ebenfalls Englisch,man braucht das heutzutage schon und es ist nie zu spät was dazu zu lernen. Viel Erfolg
@@questionsfrog1918 Danke ich habe meine Muttersprache und das reicht mir aus
The bed sometimes comes a bit loose from factory but you need to make sure the screws are tight and everything including first layer Will be fine
Nope, it wasn't just loose screws. For me the 1st layer was terrible until their new firmware. Check my latest ender 3 video to see what I mean ;)
I liked the boring parts😄
Creality being creality
My s1 auto mesh is also useless, I only get good results making the whole mesh manually and it takes a lot of time. The probe is just acting like a glorified end stop
I think the S1 is the one with twisted X axis. Do the "Location Bias Check" under the probe calibration section in the Klipper documentation and check if you have problem on the X axis. If so, you can do the Axis Twist Compensation in the same documentation. Sadly it doesn't work for the Y axis.
resin 3D printer are taking over since their prices are coming down and more suited for FPV.
I have not (wait for it) dipped my toes into resin printers yet ;) What makes them better for FPV? FPV and 3D Printing - mostly TPU comes to my mind (for mounts and drone parts).
No they aren’t. They aren’t suitable for majority of people of households emitting toxic fumes. If you are making miniatures sure but everything else sucks with resin printers.
They may print/look better but do your research on the toxicity factor. You may value the quality now but if you experience health related issues 30 years down the road you won't be very happy. Plus there are more steps like cleaning and curing which are a pain compared to FDM "print and go".
People don't know very well what the toxin does to the body. I wouldn't play with a resin printer unless I had a garage or a well-ventilated space dedicated to it.
hey looking for my first 3D printer I am looking for a quiet one with a good quality
can you help me ??
The flashforge 5mpro is quite cheap for the quality it produces! But non of my printers is really silent. Of course the enclosed ones are a bit better, but best to have them in a separate room…
@Rcschim which one is better for me the k1 or the e3 v3 ke ?
If you can afford, take the k1 or the newer k1c.
@@Rcschim and is it quiet
And reliable ?
Boonjour , Partager moi Profile creality plz.
It's not cheap! It's the last desperate try from Creality to squeeze out the last drop of their hopeless old hardware (Rubberwheels? I beg you pardon. Bed warp of 0,8mm? Haha). Why should someone buy this hardware when he could buy a A1 Lite for the same price which is faster and has the option for AMS Lite? The people from Creality had their time but it's over now. They slept to long and now they try to sell printers by catchwords like "Klipper" and they hope that Inputshaper will solve the bad hardware for them. There is no more innovation to expect from Creality. So why should someone invest money in an old printer of a company that copys Opensource Projects and is not able to give something back to the community?
Wish we had access to other printers but for some creality is their only option haha, they said they will be releasing the open source klipper by mid jan
Isn’t the a1 mini around 500€? I agree that bambu printers look more advanced innovative than Creality ;)
For the bad level, I will check if the gantry screws are evenly thighs, maybe a sloppy job on installation caused these values?
Their behaviour with Klipper is doubtable, but after some pressure they at least give up and let us in ;)
In terms of software the k1 for example is my best printer. Next to it stands the flash forge 5mpro, hardware better, almost bambu like, but software also not there yet. Cannot even send print jobs over orca wifi. But they promised to do this update soon…
Definitly getting interesting this year!
Still think these printers got to a really attractive price battle ;)
Yep, my flash forge review is doing way worse in terms of views on my channel since it’s not so well known…. Even tho they are around the 3d printing world since ages…
I had the original Tevo tarantula. Never got it to work and threw it out the window and left 3D printing. Finally came back after I finished college… I think I’ll pay the extra money to save the headache of zeroing all the axis and reprogramming and coding. That printer minus as well have came with an operator certification course and programming certification. 😂
@@user-2df90a0z1 I also had those fears (having to tinker around too much with these printers) before I got into this hobby last year. the Ender 3s1pro was a good setup unit used from a friend. worked great - and then even better after I tinkered around too much (installing klipper on a linux VM). but in the end it was a good learning experience for me. Now I love those things and can appreciate the "turnkey" ones way more!
If you got the cash (and they get cheaper), check bambulabs. they seem to do really good. the flashforge (find my review a few videos back) is also doing really good without expecting a lot of modding. just turn on and print. (min prints right now in the background btw). The Ender 3v3ke is 100$ cheaper but with some disadvantages... but it's also not that bad.
thank you for the nice video introduction.
can you tell how to set cura for this printer? or do you prefer another slicer?
thank you for the answer. you are a good help to the community
you're welcome! I've started using orca slicer a while ago and never went back to cura, prusa or ...
with latest orca you have presets of the printer already available, also a good set of filaments.
first it can be a bit weird where orca has it's options hidden - but after a few video tutorials (I think teaching tech did a good orca intro) it's really working well.
plus you have those really nice wireless printing options if you also install the mainsail / fluidd klipper version (which I've shown in the followup of this one here). increases the value of this printer by a lot!
thanks a lot i shurely going to test orca.
keep up the good videos gr from marcel (also RC fan ) @@Rcschim