Don't use raft or brim - use isopropyl alcohol, clean the bed and use a bit more flow during first layer - I am using 125%. That makes it stick ok and reflects the texture. When removing parts, I need to make sure I don't touch the print surface and don't introduce skin oils to it. Have fun!
Yes - I've had good results with my Sermoon with being careful about cleaning the bed and not getting any fingers on there which can leave oils. What I'd previously done is print first layer at higher temp and slower. Not tried using more flow - I'll have to try that, cheers
I recently got this same printer and there was a QR code in the manual for assembly video by Creality itself. Helped alot in assembling the printer. Also there should be an USB flash drive in the box. Also i think your filament sensor is upside down on the video. Good video anyhow!
I bought the Ender 3 V3 SE for Christmas last year. It was on sale for 160€. Very happy with it. There wasn't one day without it printing something. At the moment I print parts for a plane. Wish this thing would have been around when I started with 3D printing (It's my 4th 3D Printer). I'd absolutely recommend it for beginners.
@@shenghongloo5065 I ordered it from geekbuying and got an coupon code (CRV3SE --> don't know if it's still working). They shipped it from Poland to me (Germany). EDIT: Their actual price is 182€ (without coupon)
I paid 400€ included shipping and 3years insurance and now I'm trying to put it again in the box to return because every time I try a move on z axis I get an unknown exception. I checked the cables but I didn't solve. So return.
@@giovannizotti8549 Oh wow, that's sad! :-( The support wasn't able to figure it out? I've seen someone where the cable connector to the extruder was assembled backwards but he managed to fix it very quickly. Glad I didn't have that problem. The name of the video is "Creality Ender 3 V3 SE Part 2 THE FIX" if you want to take a look.
To avoid spaguetti: - Make sure the bed is properly leveled, play around with the screws or use metal washers if needed, should be less of a 0.4 difference in numbers when doing the bed leveling. - Wash the bed in warm water with dish soap, avoid putting fingers (they are usually very oily) on it.
Some printers can use accelerometers to tune the printer to et more speed 😮. Google klipper, input shaping and accelerometers. I mention it because you have experience with airborne accels and gyros 😊
Frustration with printing TPU has left my FDM printer in 'Park' for about a year now. I've never created a spaghetti monster, had I though, I would've forgone 'Park' and put it in 'Neutral' and pushed it into the sea. There's someone on Etsy better at it that myself, and enough competition to keep prices reasonable. I can't articulate the rage I felt with TPU, especially with pretty much perfect PLA and PETG prints for years, heck, even LW-PLA! After kilos of the flexi stuff I just couldn't get it dialed in. TPU 1/Ghost 0.
I've found TPU easier than PLA on my two "proper" printers - i.e not the one I build myself. I knew that would handle TPU because of the extruder I used, but this sprite extruder thing rules :D
I have this exact same printer and same issue when i print PLA. It's the material the build plate is made from. i set my bed to 60c and spray it with TRESemme' Extra Hold aresol hair spray. haven't had any adhesion issues since. i didnt add skirts or rafts.
Do you have to clean that off every time or is it ok. I've been printing a bunch of pla over the last few days and using the first layer with a slower speed and higher temp seems to do the trick... unless the surface area with teh print bed is very small
@@CurryKitten actually.... after i commented i started getting fails! guess how i fixed it. wipe the bed down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. tried with no hairspray. worked flawlessly. @rklauco was right! so now i use alcohol to clean the bed before each print. i have printed 4 more parts. all flawless.
@@CurryKitten yes. 60c printbed for PLA. make sure the build plate is clean seems to be the trick. .25 first layer then .15 after is my settings. 200mm/second print speed.
interesting vid, cheers. I have an ender3 s1 pro, looks pretty much the same as yours but with the creality sonic pad, will comfortably print at 150 mms.
I'm not sure which is newest, but the Ender series is quite large, and being a V3 isn't unique to any model. You have the Ender-3 V3 SE, the Ender-3 V3 KE, the straight Ender-3 V3.. .and then the Max and Neo ranges.
@@CurryKitten there’s a new version that I’ve seen on UA-cam with a new transmitter the videos called. Unboxing Worlds smallest Crawler Rc Car 1/64 scale. u should check and maybe review it please ❤️🙏
Don't use raft or brim - use isopropyl alcohol, clean the bed and use a bit more flow during first layer - I am using 125%. That makes it stick ok and reflects the texture. When removing parts, I need to make sure I don't touch the print surface and don't introduce skin oils to it. Have fun!
Yes - I've had good results with my Sermoon with being careful about cleaning the bed and not getting any fingers on there which can leave oils. What I'd previously done is print first layer at higher temp and slower. Not tried using more flow - I'll have to try that, cheers
I bought a ceramic scraper for cleaning my brim bits, and it was worth every penny. Better than pretty much anything else for cleaning up edges.
I recently got this same printer and there was a QR code in the manual for assembly video by Creality itself. Helped alot in assembling the printer. Also there should be an USB flash drive in the box. Also i think your filament sensor is upside down on the video. Good video anyhow!
I bought the Ender 3 V3 SE for Christmas last year. It was on sale for 160€. Very happy with it. There wasn't one day without it printing something. At the moment I print parts for a plane. Wish this thing would have been around when I started with 3D printing (It's my 4th 3D Printer). I'd absolutely recommend it for beginners.
How did you get this price?
@@shenghongloo5065 I ordered it from geekbuying and got an coupon code (CRV3SE --> don't know if it's still working). They shipped it from Poland to me (Germany).
EDIT: Their actual price is 182€ (without coupon)
I paid 400€ included shipping and 3years insurance and now I'm trying to put it again in the box to return because every time I try a move on z axis I get an unknown exception. I checked the cables but I didn't solve. So return.
@@giovannizotti8549 Oh wow, that's sad! :-( The support wasn't able to figure it out? I've seen someone where the cable connector to the extruder was assembled backwards but he managed to fix it very quickly. Glad I didn't have that problem. The name of the video is "Creality Ender 3 V3 SE Part 2 THE FIX" if you want to take a look.
To avoid spaguetti:
- Make sure the bed is properly leveled, play around with the screws or use metal washers if needed, should be less of a 0.4 difference in numbers when doing the bed leveling.
- Wash the bed in warm water with dish soap, avoid putting fingers (they are usually very oily) on it.
I use a PEI coated bed, not textured, and I've had very few adhesion issues. Also they are flexible, to help with removal.
This is actually PEI (as far as I know) but a textured version. Super easy to get prints off still
I have the KE. With 60c bed temp IT is better. Also I sometimes ude a gluestick. That works all the time.
I normally do use 60C. I know using a gluestick would solve everything - and would go well with the surface, but I don't like cleaning it up :D
@@CurryKitten I agree but since the plate is easy to remove I simply just wash the plate with hot water in my sink. Takes 2 minuntes.
I love this printer it’s about 5 times faster rhan my old printer.
Some printers can use accelerometers to tune the printer to et more speed 😮. Google klipper, input shaping and accelerometers. I mention it because you have experience with airborne accels and gyros 😊
For PLA use a standard bed temperature of 60 c. You can solve a lot of bed adhesion issues solve.
Not always. If you have small contact, nor even Jesus helps you. Only brim :).
I use a bed temp of 60 on PLA by default. This bed seems more difficult to adhere to than the smoother one
You can edit the start code so the bed and nozzle heat up simultaneously Wayne....🤔😏🇬🇧
Yeah - can do, but the nozzle heats up so quickly, it would be at temp for 5 minutes waiting for the bed :)
Fantastic review, Wayne! Thanks! 😃
It looks like a pretty good printer!!!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Cheers MC!
Frustration with printing TPU has left my FDM printer in 'Park' for about a year now. I've never created a spaghetti monster, had I though, I would've forgone 'Park' and put it in 'Neutral' and pushed it into the sea. There's someone on Etsy better at it that myself, and enough competition to keep prices reasonable. I can't articulate the rage I felt with TPU, especially with pretty much perfect PLA and PETG prints for years, heck, even LW-PLA! After kilos of the flexi stuff I just couldn't get it dialed in. TPU 1/Ghost 0.
I've found TPU easier than PLA on my two "proper" printers - i.e not the one I build myself. I knew that would handle TPU because of the extruder I used, but this sprite extruder thing rules :D
I have this exact same printer and same issue when i print PLA. It's the material the build plate is made from. i set my bed to 60c and spray it with TRESemme' Extra Hold aresol hair spray. haven't had any adhesion issues since. i didnt add skirts or rafts.
Do you have to clean that off every time or is it ok. I've been printing a bunch of pla over the last few days and using the first layer with a slower speed and higher temp seems to do the trick... unless the surface area with teh print bed is very small
@@CurryKitten actually.... after i commented i started getting fails! guess how i fixed it. wipe the bed down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. tried with no hairspray. worked flawlessly. @rklauco was right! so now i use alcohol to clean the bed before each print. i have printed 4 more parts. all flawless.
@@CurryKitten yes. 60c printbed for PLA. make sure the build plate is clean seems to be the trick. .25 first layer then .15 after is my settings. 200mm/second print speed.
Iv found that no matter what the auto z offset gives me, i have to drop it another 0.05. Am i the only one??
interesting vid, cheers. I have an ender3 s1 pro, looks pretty much the same as yours but with the creality sonic pad, will comfortably print at 150 mms.
Hey Sir Kittens, I have ditched Creality and gone to bambu.
How is it? The A1 mini certainly seems to have some lovely features
Im confused on release dates, is the KE the newest or the V3
I'm not sure which is newest, but the Ender series is quite large, and being a V3 isn't unique to any model. You have the Ender-3 V3 SE, the Ender-3 V3 KE, the straight Ender-3 V3.. .and then the Max and Neo ranges.
I know this is completely random but can u review the new snt sniclo jeep wrangler from sniclo please mate ❤️
I already did, didn't I? ua-cam.com/video/aTGfCVMcsWc/v-deo.html
@@CurryKitten there’s a new version that I’ve seen on UA-cam with a new transmitter the videos called. Unboxing Worlds smallest Crawler Rc Car 1/64 scale. u should check and maybe review it please ❤️🙏