Nice, i enjoy learning the technical parts of an engine and tuning. Would you be interested in doing a video on camshafts? Which cams are best for what application and which intake manifolds to match a cam set. Thanks
I have timed a ton of engines in my time as a master tech at a dealer….but this has all been factory specs. I am however a complete noob when it comes to actually building a performance engine. I’m in the process of building the bottom end of my gen 2 coyote and I’m starting to look at the valve train and what I’m going to do. I understand LSA, cam duration, lift, all that stuff. But I don’t know what is normal, mild, and extreme. Still learning. I also understand timing, what it does and can do and the importance of it. Here’s my question…in your opinion, what’s the benefit of locking the phasers? I always thought the VVT was a big benefit in these smaller DOHC engine. Should I do it? Keep In mind I’m planning on going the forced induction route. Just not sure if it’s gonna be a supercharger or turbo just yet…I want to be in the 600 or 700 HP range. I just need better info from someone I know has a history of building race engines and not some random dude on a forum.🤙🏼
So i guess the question of the day is.. at what point is it a good idea to lock the exhaust cams? Or would there be a bad scenario to do it? Like maybe it won't necessarily benifit a basic bitch set up, but will it hurt at lower power levels?
While I value the info you share I don’t agree with this video. I’m no cam guru by any means but… -you are assuming the centerline of a camshaft - you aren’t timing the camshaft to the crank at all. -going from 123 to 113 is advancing the cam, not retarding. With an additional 5 minutes of work you could find out 100% the true centerline and it’s relation to the crank with no guess work
Well, I AM a cam guy, been designing and degreeing camshafts since 2001. OEM centerlines are extremely close, stock gen1/2 exhaust cams are 123, lots of docs out there on that, but in reality it does not matter, we know this particular setup responds (on the dyno with HP) to 10 degrees retard on the exhaust cams. More over if you buy cams from L&M racing, they profile EVERY camshaft they ship. You can actually make a call with the serial number of your camshafts and L&M will tell you the exact center of your individual camshafts. You are incorrect as well on the 113, this is the exhaust cam, not the intake. Center is on the opposite side of the degree wheel. Here is the math: Exhaust duration at .050 = 211, centerline of 123 To get the opening and closing is as follows: (duration/2)-centerline IE (211/2)-123 = -17.5 (exhaust valve closes 17.5 degrees BTDC) Now we back-calculate the exhaust valve opening. 17.5 + 211 - 180 = 48.5. Exhaust valve OPENS 48.5 degrees before BBDC Now you want to move the exhaust cam 10 degrees to open LATER, which is 38.5 degrees Before bottom dead center. So do the math again (backwards) and the centerline is 113. No, you cannot find the actual centerline using the method I did in the video. To do that you'd need the dial indicator on the valve tip (rocker tip).
@@aedtuning8441 once again I enjoy your Channel but logic is flawed. I am well aware of all the formulas. The whole point of what your doing makes zero sense cause the valve events in relation to the crank are unknown. Anything worth doing is worth doing right, especially when it only takes 5-10 minutes extra and no guess work. Engines aren’t cheap I have seen 4-5 degree swings in cam CL or .050” method based off of mileage and factory vs aftermarket crank sprocket used. Chains Strech, guides wear a little, sprockets wear, not all crank sprockets are the same, heads being milled, deck height, etc. It really takes 60 seconds to throw piston stop in, go clunk-clunk, mark TDC and and grab IVO or EVO and know what you got and have repeatable data. Since your wanting to stay cam lobe way for quickness, Not sure if cam has symmetrical lobe but once TDC is found you could mark .050” before max lobe lift, .050” after max lobe lift and halfway between on degree wheel would be CL, maybe 🤷🏻♂️ Like I said, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed, but when I set cam timing in my engines I know where they’re at exactly.
@@Jason-fi8nk As you have already pointed out we did NOT check center line. There is no need to. We did not use the .050 method. We do not care about symetric vs asymetric, it does not matter since we are NOT CHECKING CENTERLINE of the camshaft. Nor is there a need to degree the crankshaft. To put it as simply as I can, we found a 'base' degree at .100 lobe lift using the LOCKED factory gear. Then moved the cam so 10 degrees later the lobe lift is the same .100" lift. IE, we retarded the camshaft 10 degrees. This is the most accurate way to move a coyote cam a given # of degrees, it's also the fastest and easiest. Tried and true this is how we do it, and it's been validated in data logs while tuning as we can data log the cam timing of each individual camshaft.
Nice, i enjoy learning the technical parts of an engine and tuning. Would you be interested in doing a video on camshafts? Which cams are best for what application and which intake manifolds to match a cam set. Thanks
Yeah sure, but that's an easy one. We are the shop behind the L&M intake only cams. They are a catch-all camshaft for all applications under 8K RPM.
I have timed a ton of engines in my time as a master tech at a dealer….but this has all been factory specs. I am however a complete noob when it comes to actually building a performance engine. I’m in the process of building the bottom end of my gen 2 coyote and I’m starting to look at the valve train and what I’m going to do. I understand LSA, cam duration, lift, all that stuff. But I don’t know what is normal, mild, and extreme. Still learning. I also understand timing, what it does and can do and the importance of it.
Here’s my question…in your opinion, what’s the benefit of locking the phasers? I always thought the VVT was a big benefit in these smaller DOHC engine. Should I do it? Keep In mind I’m planning on going the forced induction route. Just not sure if it’s gonna be a supercharger or turbo just yet…I want to be in the 600 or 700 HP range. I just need better info from someone I know has a history of building race engines and not some random dude on a forum.🤙🏼
We lock only the exhaust due to heavy valve springs on Turbo applications with high boost
this can only be done with the stock phaser ?
So i guess the question of the day is.. at what point is it a good idea to lock the exhaust cams? Or would there be a bad scenario to do it? Like maybe it won't necessarily benifit a basic bitch set up, but will it hurt at lower power levels?
Generally around 30psi from a Turbo.
While I value the info you share I don’t agree with this video. I’m no cam guru by any means but…
-you are assuming the centerline of a camshaft
- you aren’t timing the camshaft to the crank at all.
-going from 123 to 113 is advancing the cam, not retarding.
With an additional 5 minutes of work you could find out 100% the true centerline and it’s relation to the crank with no guess work
Well, I AM a cam guy, been designing and degreeing camshafts since 2001.
OEM centerlines are extremely close, stock gen1/2 exhaust cams are 123, lots of docs out there on that, but in reality it does not matter, we know this particular setup responds (on the dyno with HP) to 10 degrees retard on the exhaust cams.
More over if you buy cams from L&M racing, they profile EVERY camshaft they ship. You can actually make a call with the serial number of your camshafts and L&M will tell you the exact center of your individual camshafts.
You are incorrect as well on the 113, this is the exhaust cam, not the intake. Center is on the opposite side of the degree wheel.
Here is the math:
Exhaust duration at .050 = 211, centerline of 123
To get the opening and closing is as follows:
(duration/2)-centerline
IE (211/2)-123 = -17.5 (exhaust valve closes 17.5 degrees BTDC)
Now we back-calculate the exhaust valve opening. 17.5 + 211 - 180 = 48.5.
Exhaust valve OPENS 48.5 degrees before BBDC
Now you want to move the exhaust cam 10 degrees to open LATER, which is 38.5 degrees Before bottom dead center. So do the math again (backwards) and the centerline is 113.
No, you cannot find the actual centerline using the method I did in the video.
To do that you'd need the dial indicator on the valve tip (rocker tip).
@@aedtuning8441 Alex Flores from Lund Racing actively disavows you... just wanted to let you know
@@sniperpronerfmods9811 Didn't know he avowed me.... Have not spoken to that guy in 4 or 5yrs, but I hope he is doing well.
@@aedtuning8441 once again I enjoy your Channel but logic is flawed. I am well aware of all the formulas. The whole point of what your doing makes zero sense cause the valve events in relation to the crank are unknown. Anything worth doing is worth doing right, especially when it only takes 5-10 minutes extra and no guess work. Engines aren’t cheap
I have seen 4-5 degree swings in cam CL or .050” method based off of mileage and factory vs aftermarket crank sprocket used. Chains Strech, guides wear a little, sprockets wear, not all crank sprockets are the same, heads being milled, deck height, etc.
It really takes 60 seconds to throw piston stop in, go clunk-clunk, mark TDC and and grab IVO or EVO and know what you got and have repeatable data.
Since your wanting to stay cam lobe way for quickness, Not sure if cam has symmetrical lobe but once TDC is found you could mark .050” before max lobe lift, .050” after max lobe lift and halfway between on degree wheel would be CL, maybe 🤷🏻♂️
Like I said, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed, but when I set cam timing in my engines I know where they’re at exactly.
@@Jason-fi8nk As you have already pointed out we did NOT check center line. There is no need to. We did not use the .050 method. We do not care about symetric vs asymetric, it does not matter since we are NOT CHECKING CENTERLINE of the camshaft. Nor is there a need to degree the crankshaft.
To put it as simply as I can, we found a 'base' degree at .100 lobe lift using the LOCKED factory gear. Then moved the cam so 10 degrees later the lobe lift is the same .100" lift.
IE, we retarded the camshaft 10 degrees.
This is the most accurate way to move a coyote cam a given # of degrees, it's also the fastest and easiest.
Tried and true this is how we do it, and it's been validated in data logs while tuning as we can data log the cam timing of each individual camshaft.