How to Degree a Coyote Engine (gen 1) Degreeing 4 Camshafts!
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Camshaft Installation Instructions:
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Camshaft Degree
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Just a free FYI for anyone doing this. It took me months to complete this because I could not get the exhaust to desired centerline. I had never attempted this before so I kept going back and redoing everything, assuming I missed something. I did everything correct as far as the process was concerned. My mistake come with poor choices in some of the parts. I initially started with Comp Cam lockout plates, then went to MMR. Unfortunately for me, those have the exact same pattern for the slots, so I got the exact same results. When I started calling engine builders and others trying to get some insight on what I thought I was doing wrong, I heard the same thing from several of them..."get the RGR lockout plates" No one could tell me why but, they all said, "they work". And for me, they worked!! I'm not saying they are the only ones that work but, I can tell you, they work and the quality of the hardware, the finish and even the billet aluminum was superior. I get nothing from RGR or anyone else for stating this but, I sure wish I had read something like this months ago when I started this process.
Really glad you got it knocked out!
Litterally doing stage 3 NA cams and mmr lockouts, and have been looking for days for a video like this, just to find you just dropped one, thanks! Lmao
Awesome man i felt the same way so i decided to make my own video!
Also great content! Spot on! No one else is willing to explain this process online that I have found yet. So this should be very helpful for the DIY guy who wants to degree his cams👌🏼🦾
thanks for the pointers , ive degreed several cams but this is my first try at a yote lots of good tips
I've found degreeing cams on the Coyote to be challenging - not in theory but in practice. The main issue I'm having is reliable repeatability. Getting the dial indicator consistently parallel with the valve is challenging, esp on the exhaust (given it's odd angle). I've seen as much as a 3 degree difference in centerline mesurments from one time to the next - meaning I'll set a cam, take everything off, run the engine, then go back to make an adjustment by first checking the cam timing again only to find it's off from the last time. Not always, there have been a couple times where I managed to get the valve to dial indicator angle the same.
It's gotten to the point I'm in the process of fabricating a tool that sits on top of the valve retainer (while also clearing the rocker arm) and holds the dial shaft perfectly 90 degrees to the retainer face every time to reduce some of this variance in measurements.
The other challenge is the secondary tensioners are not pressured when the engine is not running so there is slack between the intake and exhaust cams. So long as you're turning the engine in it's normal direction you'd think it would maintain the relationship between both cams but because the resistance between the two is uneven (because the cams are not spaced evenly, because the firing order on a V8 is not even) the cams tend to snap forward from valve spring pressure. You can also see a huge difference in valve timing if you manually put pressure on the secondary chain tensioner.
I'm considering taking a small piece of pipe, cutting it lengthwise and making a tool that will fit under the secondary tensioner guild to simulate tension on the chain as a running engine.
I really like the Coyote platform but they make working on a small block chevy look like the difference between chess and tic tac toe.
You're not wrong on any of this 🤣 best i could do was triple check all the degrees off camera and hope i was within .75 degrees of accuracy.
@@ConnorGuasti
They say anything less than 1 or 2 degrees probably won't show up on anything but a dyno (most degree kits I've seen for cam in block engines are in 2-4 degree increments) but, still, precision would be nice.
I’m also getting 1-2 degree differences on every other check. I guess it is what it is. Just add another PSI of boost !? Lol
@@jbrown82elite Yeah, boost solves everything. My Coyote is already meeting my power and 1/4 mile goals in my heavy ass race car so I've given up worrying about perfection from valve timing. I'm already running high 10's in good air just from ~5 psi of boost, next year aiming for low 10's. If I had anything to do over again it would probably be a smaller turbo. The S475 looks to be overkill in my case.
What I've also found out through the coyote degreeing process is that 1mm of cam adjustment is roughly 1 degree.
Good info!
Great job!! Class is in session 🏫🏫🏫
Always! Busted out the ole white Busted
The 4 cams are supposed to stay in the same degrees once you’re finish? I’m doing mine but every time I finish bank 2 head the cams degree on bank 1 head changes. I hope this gets to you 😅
Greetings from Mexico
Because the inlet is a slave, do you need to degree the exhaust cams first?
I think that because you're rotating the cam, not the sprocket it doesn't really matter for us everyday folk. But if you're goal is prefect precision i understand what your saying. The act of degreeing the exhaust cam after the intake could SLIGHTLY effect the intake. But i double checked everything after the video was done and i was still within my desired tolerance.
THANK YOU
You're welcome
Have you stuck with those degree numbers? I got a boosted sleeved coyote 1100hp ish and was told to degree at 116 intake and 120 exhaust
I stuck with my numbers. I would go with what your tuner/engine builder said.. we're taking talking about the difference in theory. If someone you paid is telling you to run those, then do that. If you're unsure, my car runs great at the degrees I set.
Dam such much trouble, seems would be much simple if sprockets came degreed.
You say to go 150 past max lift and 150 before max lift, but the comp cam instructions say 50 before max lift and 50 after max lift? just trying to make sure I get this right the first time!
after thinking about it, i guess it doesnt matter as youll get the same Centerline no matter what (2 points and then finding the middle between them). Very good video though!
Apples to apples my man. 150 is how i learned. Im sure if i would of done 50 past i would i got the same result
@@ConnorGuasti yea I got it all figured out. What really threw me off was I forgot to find tdc for the other bank. Also jealous that you had enough room to use the lower portion of the head to mount the dial gauge for the exhaust cams. Swapped cars have their cons lol
Even i has to work that exhaust valve a little bit haha. Did you get it running?
Yep! Your video really came in fucking clutch!
I’m degreeing my cams now, intake cams went great, my exhaust cams are kicking my a**! Every time I check them it’ll give me an abnormally high degree on the wheel from TDC (for example my LH exhaust cam is reading 234° and 296° on each measurement. I must be missing something, any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
I'm having the same issue. Did you find the issue or find any solutions?
@@tyleringraham4855 Unfortunately no, I emailed Comp Cams and they directed me to this video which I’ve already watched a trillion times. I have no clue what I’m doing wrong bc the intake cams went fine
@@tyleringraham4855 I actually just got some insight from a coyote page on Facebook. Do you have Facebook? I can’t send it here since it has images in it
Are you using the comp cams wheel? Or are you using the blue pro wheel?
@ConnorGuasti I'm using the comp cam wheel. After rewatching your video, I understand my error. I wasn't starting at BDC for exhaust valves, and the 360-degree wheel doesn't help. I do have one more issue. I adjusted intake and then exhaust, but when I go back to double-check intake, it's off 20° but my mmr lockouts won't let me adjust any more advanced. Any suggestions or thoughts?
I am interested in the clamps you are using to keep the guides and chains snug.
Got them from harbor freight!
@@ConnorGuasti Okay i will check it out thanks
For guys who want to keep VCT and not go with the lockouts is there anyway to adjust the cams to get within the cam card specifications? Just curious bc for guys who probably buy the stage 3 NA cams from comp cam probably don't buy lockout plates for adjustment. They time the engine and just run the cam with VCT.
The little lock outs are machined to put the cams exactly where they need to go im sure
@@ConnorGuasti I thought those little lockouts were only to prevent the cam from advancing past 20 degree of timing. Not actually put the cam on the specific centerline from the cam card.
@@queso2561 ahhh i understand your question now. You'd need to pick up some lockout plates if you're wanting to lock the centerline
Rather than making a guesstimate, you could have moved the big ass degree wheel instead a half degree... i degreed my coyote engine recently. Were your lock outs from a visual perspective the same from Bank 1 to bank 2? I noticed mine were not a mirror image of one another. Which made me question myself.
Nvm i was off a tooth. They look identical now.
Not sure im understanding your suggestion. The adjustment needs to be made on the cam not by (what i assume youre saying) holding the cam and turning the crank. 2 reasons for this the first is chain load has to stay in the correct direction to ensure accurate readings. Second id be scared to lose my grip or go to far and slam the piston into the valve. Having said that there's many ways skin a cat. This was just my way haha
51:00
ua-cam.com/video/QTodh-wGUcY/v-deo.html
Are these stock gen2 gt cams? I’m having trouble find the CL on them.
Mine are stock gen 1 cams
Wait so when you do TDC what cylinder you looking at to degree?
Or is it all the cylinders?
Btw you said 161 degrees when it was 159
Hey! So it doesn't matter what cylinder you degree. Since the cam is connected though all the cylinders you just degree one cylinders intake and exhaust on each bank. As for the misread... i was sick and mispoke a few times in this video. But i went back and double checked when i felt better haha
Second! 😈
First! 😁
Damn you bested Jordan Williams
Oh god I’m much too stupid for this
You got it man