I have owned this program since 2005, used it off and on, and have learned more from your videos than the forum at HPT. Thank you for this. I have a 2015 High Country with the 6.2. Just did exhaust and an intake.
I have a 2015 gmc slt same 6.2. Had it tuned by someone but it's not right. Gues I need to invest in a hptuners. My drivable and torque modules have to be all over the place. I get surging at idle and the trans shifts weird
@@Chickencoop2016 i have an 11 sierra with 5.3. Cammed and ported stock heads. 4 hours at the dyno shop only got 1 pull no tune and im out 300$. The guy did absolutely nothing but jerk me around. I should have just bought the hp tuner to begin with.
Imagine if tuners actually tuned like Kyle. Not just a once over with a computer. But many drives over many different days, weeks with different variables is the way to really tune. Kyle has shown me so much. If I pay to have someone do any tuning on my car, it will be Kyle.
Just found this series. Thank you so much, I'm getting close to firing up my freshly turboed ls1 GMC Sierra. I live in New Zealand so there's not much support for this stuff here. Iike the way you preface most statements with "I believe" or "in my opinion". Most tuner channels are based on I'm always right type dudes. Cheers Dave.
Hey Kyle - First gotta say this is my third time through the series and learn something more every time on every video - Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this, I'm sure it not easy. I do have a question - as you were bumping the 2-4 degrees of timing were you feeling any difference in the trucks performance/driveability... Thanks Again!
I have had terrible experiences with custom tuners and have made more progress myself, thanks to you. Something I'm having a hard time coming across is how to properly increase ignition past the adjustments made to fueling, and returning back to ignition before the subtraction. I have my fuel trim zeroed out and no knock during pulls currently. Using Hondata
Copy/paste with subtract! Why did I never use this before? I HATE those rogue cells that get hits that you really can't ignore. I always end up flipping back and forth between the logger and the tune file. I never considered logging for knock with no decimals and doing it this way, definitely going to go give this a shot now. What I really like to do after this is bring the timing in sooner in the cruise range, that always makes a nice difference and you don't need the dyno to tell you it's working. Helps the truck resist a downshift unnecessarily when cruising. Stock tables leave a TON on the table here, but the global bumps that you start with do eat into it.
what about false knock and how to fix it? I have a texas speed cam with stock timing and it pulls timing by 10 degrees. How do I begin to diagnose this issue? Thanks for all the information
Great videos. Your videos have helped me out tremendously! I have a L83 / 6L80 1500 Silverado. DOD delete kit, stage 2 BTR cam and that's about it. Having some minor issues. Can you or can you offer contact info of someone that can read my logs and make out what is going on in WOT? It revs up but bogs down. Shows some KR. Any help is appreciated.
Latitude 64 as in the disc golf company? I have a little bit of tuning experience with COBB for my old Mazda. I just bought HP Tuners and thank you for your videos. I cant wait to dive in and start tuning my 09 silverado. Do you have any videos covering the 6L80 trans?
I love your videos there so helpful I am working on a 2014 Chevy Cruze I have been attempting to do timing tuning as suggested and I have done this 3 times now and applied the changes to the High octane table as you did but I’m burning 88 octane seeing roughly the same amount of knock in the same places does that mean my car is using the low octane table and I need to be using the low octane table? Any thoughts would be much appreciated this is my first time tuning a car
Another great video - please please keep them coming. I agree with the comments below about knowing the tables, i.e IAT that can impact timing (retard timing areas) --- I still need to watch SD 200 more times to grasp that better on the fueling side. If you can think of anything more to do videos on with regard to SD and fueling please do. I am in a pretty well boosted scenario - 17-20 psi but pig rich at WOT and inherited my tune so learning how to adjust it.
Hey goat rope, been loving the content you've put out and I'm so stoked to be learning this stuff! I would love to know, how do you know what's a safe starting point for a timing table? Unfortunately I have no solid reference point besides the base map in my link software... It's a GC8 with a v8 ej207. Any help or points in the right direction would be awesome.
In your first video you particularly said you had originally started tuning on subarus, would you say its harder or easier depending on the more cylinders and if a turbo is present? Im having problems with the shop, they bricked my ecu when i lost the pro tune due to a dead battery while I was gone on vacation. Wanting to to learn so next time something like this happens Im able to do the work myself and eliminate the hacks in the shop trying to play around with an access port.
It's all the same, learning the different tuning platforms are the biggest hangups but when you figure that out the process of tuning is basically the same.
Ive got an LT1 trans am with a vortec 350 pcm and tune so my optispark thinks it's a regular distributor. Im having spark knock that never pulls timing. How would i go about building a spark tune from the ground up? Just set all the cells to 0?
Nice video - Like most backyard tuners I don't have access to a dyno. Is there any merit to using one of the calculated torque parameters to determine if you are making more or less torque as timing is increased? As you suggest, without a dyno you don't know where MBT is and so the usual method is to go until you see knock and dial back a few degrees for safety. The risk is that even if you don't observe any knock, you may have taken timing too far and reduced torque. Is there is reliable PID or a custom math equation that offers a reliable indicator of actual changes in torque (even if the absolute number is not accurate - at long as you know the relative difference ie. torque is going up or down).
That's a good question, let me do some digging and maybe some testing and if it looks like there is I'll get back to everyone. Great idea to look into!
I normally use the PID Engine Delivered Torque and i have also created a custom math for horsepower. It may not be as accurate as a Dyno but it shows me changes based on Timing added. Its also great to tune part throttle timing for better response.
This is pretty much what I've done in the past, but if your SD isn't dialed in you can get some crazy numbers. As much as I want to believe I'm making 1100hp, lol!!
Goat Rope Garage lmao that is true but it’s not so much for the number but the ability to see if adding timing is changing anything. If the torque is no longer rising then there is No need to add more timing. That’s of course if you don’t reach the point of knock.
QUESTION? ASAP C6 CORVETTE /CAM/PORTED HEADS RUNS GREAT CANT TUNE IN THE DRY NOZZEL DRY KIT! IF I HIT THE SPRAY BELOW 4K IT GOS FAT AND BLACK SMOKE! BUT IT SCREAMS ONCE ITS OUT AND MOVING! IS IT MAF TABLE OR PE TABLE! RUNS FINE N/A 47/52/57 JET I FEEL LIKE ITS DIFFERENT THAN MY 99 T/A BECASUE THE SENSOR IAT/MAF ARE TOGETHER? LOST! NO KNOCK
Any reason why you didnt mention the other tables that can effect your timing map while tuning? I would think it may be important to know/adjust those other tables so they are not effecting the base when initial tuning the base spark table?
This is the foundation that it's all built upon. Since we aren't able to properly gauge the changes without seeing power gains it's better to keep a simple approach when it comes to timing, in my opinion.
Are you talking about the tables like the Timing vs IAT? A lot of tables like that one are meant to be safety measures. Best to leave them alone unless you know for sure they are pulling timing too aggressively.
Ok yall a little tip for street tuning. No you do not need a dyno. Your ecu has one in it. All you need to do is log it, and create a dyno math for calculating HP. It doesn't need to be accurate as to whp and it isnt comparable to a dynojet but all you really need is a way of measuring the increase or decrease in torque at a given rpm as you change timing or even fuel. It isnt hard to do, and it will get you tuned. If you need bragging numbers rent a dyno for 30 minutes and you cant make 10 pulls or morr.
I wasn't sure which video to put this question in since it's general to the whole process. Do you recommend doing anything different in the tuning process for different uses, or is it universal to just get the system running at it's optimum setting for everything? (When it's finally on it's own weight again) I'm going to start looking at the stock tune for a 4.8L Gen3 engine / 4l80e in a Jeep buggy. A lot of tuning information is based on high speed street/strip, but I'm not sure if anything should be done differently for Offroad applications??? The main use would be lower speed - high load crawling, but of course with some rowdiness in open areas.
Hey Sonny, this all applies for basically anything. Making safe power for the strip and for the trail is pretty much the same thing, you're just using a lot more lower range partial throttle stuff, you might also benefit more from transmission tuning that optimizes your shifts for staying in the torque band better but as far as the engine goes this should help you get everything dialed in. Let me know if you run in to any issues once you get started!
I’ve been watching your videos on how to tune because it’s another skill I want to teach myself but I have a question that I can’t find the answer to. Maybe searching the wrong way…. I have a 2018 Tahoe with a Gen V 5.3 with a six speed. I’m building a 6.2 for it and I know all the sensors, etc are the same with the exception of the fuel pump and injectors. Do I need to run a 6.2 ECU to tune the truck? I’m thinking not because everything is the same just tuning for the bigger displacement, fuel and injectors. Right?
Hey I just purchased a hp tuner MPVi2 and my editor Doesn’t look like yours. I can seem to find the engine icon in editor. I got alot of high values in my spark advance table and I want to change it because my engine is backfiring and shacking. Any help is appreciated thanks.
Hi how do I stop my exhaust from popping and crackling everytime I change gear or when the rpm comes down after I rev it? I turned off dfco and it still does it. Thanks
In the base high octane table you have -15 degrees? You still using the factory boost control? Odd that removing timing would cause boost creep and knock.
More timing isn't always more power -- There is typically a "Max TQ Timing" chart as well right? If you have more timing than the Max TQ Timing, will the computer ignore your larger number? i.e. could you add 20 degrees and it would be ignored as the VCM will chose the MAX TQ value as opposed to your (larger than max TQ) value?
You can exceed that value and it will go higher but I generally use it as a guideline of where the max power is on the platform as you're correct, more timing doesn't always mean more power.
@@GoatRopeGarage So if the Max TQ timing table doesnt set a ceiling; then what does it do other than act as an informative repository for tuner reference?
In the absence of a dynamic. Can't you use the street as you were gaining data to get some good pulls on the street power to road more accurately than just a dynamic alone?
Hi kyleive been doing sum digging on hptuners and i dont think my vehicle is supported unfortunately. Its a holden commodore GM v6 l67 3800(3.8lt) 2000model sedan ( american engine) made in Australia. Our pcm's are delco compared 2 the delphi pcm found in American versions of the 3800 (3.8lt) which is supported by HPT. So im wondering if there is a way to tune the Aussie versions with HPT?
Hey, ive went through and set up the table like you've shown and my table isn't reading. Have you ever experienced or heard of this before? Any suggestion on what to try?
@@GoatRopeGarage I just got the mpvi2 in yesterday. The wideband and everything else that goes along with it to hook up hasnt came in yet. I know you say timing should come after the maf and fuel, I'm just trying to see where it is that I'm knocking. I had it "tuned" after the cam swap and rebuild and now I'm getting the random knock sensor fault.
@@jeromypaxton4656 sorry if I'm way too late on this but I had a similar drama having missed setting up a PID on the left hand side of the scanner. This prevented my table from running due to not having 'airmass' being logged
hellp hpw are you ? plz if i buy this hp tunner its difficult fot me to make a programing for 6.0 ls ECM i wanna swap my hummer h3 2006 3.5 to this ls2 generation 4 6.0?
Might have to play with both a bit, dial your idle airflow down a bit and add some timing and you should be able to get it started so you can sort it out
My spark retard table show knock on Decelation (I know sounds weird as is first time I see this myself, but while watching the log as soon as I let off throttle start getting knock for who knows what reason), I try doing this but my maps are very different being am using a Ford and maps are load vs RPM. So I can't figure out how to set up the map correctly on the Datalog. I've been lowering spark on low loads at higher rpm and have solved my knock a bit, but would really like to know how to set this up like this.
Love the videos, very educational. Im trying to tune my 3800 seriesII 01 impala in open loop with hp tuners and cant seem to get my commanded afr to stay at 14.7 even with all tables set to14.7 and adders/subtractors zeroed. While idling in gear its commanded afr is 14.7 and while cruising the commanded afr will go will climb up to 16.8 depending on the rpms, kpa, and speed. I also get knock retard on start up and while crusing. My Afr is 14.7 - 15, Ive subtracted 5 degrees from the entire tables on both hi and low octane, logged the changes and knock seems to get worse even after adjusting the maf to get a 14.7 afr during cruise. Is the commanded afr what the car wants in order to be happy ? Heres a list if this of mods done to my car. The turbo was a kit and came with a tuned pcm L67 block with stock internals, Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain, #136 comp cam springs intalled @ 1.43", Exhaust Valves - 1.57", Intake Valves - 1.84", PNP Cylinder Heads, 0.62" Thick 5 Layer Head Gasket, Custom Lenth Pushrods, Ls7 Roller Lifters, Stg 4 Turbo Cam 224/218 LSA 116* Overlap -11*, lucas 42.5lbs Injectors, Garrett T3/T4 Turbo, AutoLite Xp103 gapped @.030", Front & Rear Powerlog headers, Corsa 2.5" Cat Back Exhaust, Triple Edge Performance Transmission 3.29 gear ratio
No advice????? Then why tell people to ask question when you aint going to answer? Getting answers for hp tuners is like trying to get a toddler to take medication. Everyone locks their lips and shakes their head, and run off.
I'm confused... I'm tracking what you're doing, but your spark table is showing at idle you have advance in the teens or the 20's, but when you're scanning before you do your log, the actual spark it's showing is around zero and sometimes even negative. What gives?
There are modifiers that affect the spark output, in this case it’s the virtual torque. You can log the additional spark modifiers to see what is adding or pulling timing on top of your base table. The low spark is more of a 5th gen ecu issue as they rely heavily on spark to adjust torque output. The Gen 3/4 ecus don’t use torque for engine control.
Could you log torque and hp(math) pids and see if it yields results? Mbt method without a dyno? Thought about doing this at least in the cruise areas to get mpg up.
I feel like these videos are not for newbs to tuning such as myself that are not tuning literate. LOL. I have a 2011 Silverado extended cab 4.8L single 70mm turbo and built 4L80E and now have to do some remote tuning and learn this because the "reputable" shop I used to tune my setup basically corrupted my ECM and now I am left with fixing it. Can't trust anyone nowadays when it.comes to the almighty dollar.
Even with the stock map I get knock. Around 3K & 5200 and what's really interesting is when I pull away from a stop it registers like 6°s! Wtf? I've added and subtracted it's just always there. Btw it's not an LS engine.
@@GoatRopeGarage it's a gmc Canyon with a 3.5 inline 5 cylinder Atlas engine. The whole damn thing is wierd! The VE table doesn't use normal %, it show the actual number, but that's a separate issue.
@@GoatRopeGarage I've never looked into how google does the advertising and I don't mind watching an ad or 2 to support your efforts. Your videos are fantastic, its frustrating though when there are 6 or more ads which breaks the thought train.
It's not correct way to tune ignition. You rely on actual knock sensing from ECM which can give you false knock i.e. when changing exhaust or adding stroker. Another thing is that in NA engines sweet for best timing is way before knock. Without torque measure is not fine tune, just guess tune
tuning "until it knocks" has absolutely no scientific meaning. in low load you could be 10 degrees past MBT and losing power before having knock. this of course with the right fuel for that engine/CR and low iat. check HPA videos.
Of course, if you have a dyno you've got more options. As a general rule, max timing=max power. Of course there are exceptions, but with no dyno to be able to test it, you just kinda have to stick with rules of thumb.
So basically we just have to add timing in the operating areas that we are in and keep adding till we see knock and dial it back 1-2 degrees and thats it ? Simple !!!!!!
Great video. You present well. Except for I find your frantic arm waving extremely distracting. My suggestion would be don't talk with your hands. Thank you for your efforts.
in my opinion you are not teaching me how to tune you are just showing me what you are doing. Not bashing or anything im just making a statement. In other words why are you doing the things that you are doing?
You need to watch some of the other videos where I talk specifically about how things work and what adjustments we make and why. This is just a video that goes through the steps of tuning.
Crazy how easy it looks. I've learned so much from all these videos. IMO the best channel for learning tuning, hands down
Thanks for watching!
I have owned this program since 2005, used it off and on, and have learned more from your videos than the forum at HPT. Thank you for this. I have a 2015 High Country with the 6.2. Just did exhaust and an intake.
I have a 2015 gmc slt same 6.2. Had it tuned by someone but it's not right. Gues I need to invest in a hptuners. My drivable and torque modules have to be all over the place. I get surging at idle and the trans shifts weird
@@Chickencoop2016 i have an 11 sierra with 5.3. Cammed and ported stock heads. 4 hours at the dyno shop only got 1 pull no tune and im out 300$. The guy did absolutely nothing but jerk me around. I should have just bought the hp tuner to begin with.
Imagine if tuners actually tuned like Kyle. Not just a once over with a computer. But many drives over many different days, weeks with different variables is the way to really tune. Kyle has shown me so much. If I pay to have someone do any tuning on my car, it will be Kyle.
Thanks for doing this I just got an Mpvi2 and Hptuners, and been learning as much as I can so this is going to help big time.
Just found this series. Thank you so much, I'm getting close to firing up my freshly turboed ls1 GMC Sierra. I live in New Zealand so there's not much support for this stuff here. Iike the way you preface most statements with "I believe" or "in my opinion". Most tuner channels are based on I'm always right type dudes. Cheers Dave.
Hey Kyle - First gotta say this is my third time through the series and learn something more every time on every video - Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this, I'm sure it not easy. I do have a question - as you were bumping the 2-4 degrees of timing were you feeling any difference in the trucks performance/driveability... Thanks Again!
I have had terrible experiences with custom tuners and have made more progress myself, thanks to you. Something I'm having a hard time coming across is how to properly increase ignition past the adjustments made to fueling, and returning back to ignition before the subtraction.
I have my fuel trim zeroed out and no knock during pulls currently. Using Hondata
Thanks for these videos. I am learning a new skill and my truck is running great! 👍
Thanks man, you helped me understand more things about timing. 😊
Thumbs up! This series is great!
Your awesome!! Keep up the great info!!
Copy/paste with subtract! Why did I never use this before? I HATE those rogue cells that get hits that you really can't ignore. I always end up flipping back and forth between the logger and the tune file. I never considered logging for knock with no decimals and doing it this way, definitely going to go give this a shot now. What I really like to do after this is bring the timing in sooner in the cruise range, that always makes a nice difference and you don't need the dyno to tell you it's working. Helps the truck resist a downshift unnecessarily when cruising. Stock tables leave a TON on the table here, but the global bumps that you start with do eat into it.
These are great videos. Keep them coming.
Sometimes I can't tell if you're saying MAF or MATH ...?
Another great video
Great video
what about false knock and how to fix it? I have a texas speed cam with stock timing and it pulls timing by 10 degrees. How do I begin to diagnose this issue? Thanks for all the information
Great videos. Your videos have helped me out tremendously! I have a L83 / 6L80 1500 Silverado. DOD delete kit, stage 2 BTR cam and that's about it. Having some minor issues. Can you or can you offer contact info of someone that can read my logs and make out what is going on in WOT? It revs up but bogs down. Shows some KR. Any help is appreciated.
New sub here..cool series, youtube needs good tuning info.
Man Stuff Channel ditto
Latitude 64 as in the disc golf company?
I have a little bit of tuning experience with COBB for my old Mazda. I just bought HP Tuners and thank you for your videos. I cant wait to dive in and start tuning my 09 silverado.
Do you have any videos covering the 6L80 trans?
I love your videos there so helpful I am working on a 2014 Chevy Cruze I have been attempting to do timing tuning as suggested and I have done this 3 times now and applied the changes to the High octane table as you did but I’m burning 88 octane seeing roughly the same amount of knock in the same places does that mean my car is using the low octane table and I need to be using the low octane table? Any thoughts would be much appreciated this is my first time tuning a car
This may be late but the high octane table could be for 91 octane?
Yes it is I finally figured it out lol
@@timbeats1229 91octane and 93 octane on some cars like my 2006 cobalt ss
Another great video - please please keep them coming. I agree with the comments below about knowing the tables, i.e IAT that can impact timing (retard timing areas) --- I still need to watch SD 200 more times to grasp that better on the fueling side. If you can think of anything more to do videos on with regard to SD and fueling please do. I am in a pretty well boosted scenario - 17-20 psi but pig rich at WOT and inherited my tune so learning how to adjust it.
Hey goat rope, been loving the content you've put out and I'm so stoked to be learning this stuff!
I would love to know, how do you know what's a safe starting point for a timing table?
Unfortunately I have no solid reference point besides the base map in my link software...
It's a GC8 with a v8 ej207.
Any help or points in the right direction would be awesome.
In your first video you particularly said you had originally started tuning on subarus, would you say its harder or easier depending on the more cylinders and if a turbo is present? Im having problems with the shop, they bricked my ecu when i lost the pro tune due to a dead battery while I was gone on vacation. Wanting to to learn so next time something like this happens Im able to do the work myself and eliminate the hacks in the shop trying to play around with an access port.
It's all the same, learning the different tuning platforms are the biggest hangups but when you figure that out the process of tuning is basically the same.
Ive got an LT1 trans am with a vortec 350 pcm and tune so my optispark thinks it's a regular distributor. Im having spark knock that never pulls timing. How would i go about building a spark tune from the ground up? Just set all the cells to 0?
Nice video - Like most backyard tuners I don't have access to a dyno. Is there any merit to using one of the calculated torque parameters to determine if you are making more or less torque as timing is increased? As you suggest, without a dyno you don't know where MBT is and so the usual method is to go until you see knock and dial back a few degrees for safety. The risk is that even if you don't observe any knock, you may have taken timing too far and reduced torque. Is there is reliable PID or a custom math equation that offers a reliable indicator of actual changes in torque (even if the absolute number is not accurate - at long as you know the relative difference ie. torque is going up or down).
That's a good question, let me do some digging and maybe some testing and if it looks like there is I'll get back to everyone. Great idea to look into!
Good question, dude. I'm looking forward to hearing more about this.
I normally use the PID Engine Delivered Torque and i have also created a custom math for horsepower. It may not be as accurate as a Dyno but it shows me changes based on Timing added. Its also great to tune part throttle timing for better response.
This is pretty much what I've done in the past, but if your SD isn't dialed in you can get some crazy numbers. As much as I want to believe I'm making 1100hp, lol!!
Goat Rope Garage lmao that is true but it’s not so much for the number but the ability to see if adding timing is changing anything. If the torque is no longer rising then there is No need to add more timing. That’s of course if you don’t reach the point of knock.
QUESTION? ASAP C6 CORVETTE /CAM/PORTED HEADS RUNS GREAT CANT TUNE IN THE DRY NOZZEL DRY KIT! IF I HIT THE SPRAY BELOW 4K IT GOS FAT AND BLACK SMOKE! BUT IT SCREAMS ONCE ITS OUT AND MOVING! IS IT MAF TABLE OR PE TABLE! RUNS FINE N/A 47/52/57 JET I FEEL LIKE ITS DIFFERENT THAN MY 99 T/A BECASUE THE SENSOR IAT/MAF ARE TOGETHER? LOST! NO KNOCK
Any reason why you didnt mention the other tables that can effect your timing map while tuning? I would think it may be important to know/adjust those other tables so they are not effecting the base when initial tuning the base spark table?
This is the foundation that it's all built upon. Since we aren't able to properly gauge the changes without seeing power gains it's better to keep a simple approach when it comes to timing, in my opinion.
Are you talking about the tables like the Timing vs IAT? A lot of tables like that one are meant to be safety measures. Best to leave them alone unless you know for sure they are pulling timing too aggressively.
So every time u hit save does that count as a tune?
awesome
how do you keep your laptop from sliding around while logging?
Ok yall a little tip for street tuning.
No you do not need a dyno. Your ecu has one in it. All you need to do is log it, and create a dyno math for calculating HP. It doesn't need to be accurate as to whp and it isnt comparable to a dynojet but all you really need is a way of measuring the increase or decrease in torque at a given rpm as you change timing or even fuel. It isnt hard to do, and it will get you tuned.
If you need bragging numbers rent a dyno for 30 minutes and you cant make 10 pulls or morr.
I wasn't sure which video to put this question in since it's general to the whole process. Do you recommend doing anything different in the tuning process for different uses, or is it universal to just get the system running at it's optimum setting for everything? (When it's finally on it's own weight again) I'm going to start looking at the stock tune for a 4.8L Gen3 engine / 4l80e in a Jeep buggy. A lot of tuning information is based on high speed street/strip, but I'm not sure if anything should be done differently for Offroad applications??? The main use would be lower speed - high load crawling, but of course with some rowdiness in open areas.
Hey Sonny, this all applies for basically anything. Making safe power for the strip and for the trail is pretty much the same thing, you're just using a lot more lower range partial throttle stuff, you might also benefit more from transmission tuning that optimizes your shifts for staying in the torque band better but as far as the engine goes this should help you get everything dialed in. Let me know if you run in to any issues once you get started!
I’ve been watching your videos on how to tune because it’s another skill I want to teach myself but I have a question that I can’t find the answer to. Maybe searching the wrong way…. I have a 2018 Tahoe with a Gen V 5.3 with a six speed. I’m building a 6.2 for it and I know all the sensors, etc are the same with the exception of the fuel pump and injectors. Do I need to run a 6.2 ECU to tune the truck? I’m thinking not because everything is the same just tuning for the bigger displacement, fuel and injectors. Right?
You can change it to the 6.2 in the tune, same ecu was used for both motors
Awesome. Thanks for the response.
Do you have any videos on tuning for nitrous with hptuner
Not yet, but eventually we will get on that topic
Hey I just purchased a hp tuner MPVi2 and my editor Doesn’t look like yours. I can seem to find the engine icon in editor. I got alot of high values in my spark advance table and I want to change it because my engine is backfiring and shacking. Any help is appreciated thanks.
Hi how do I stop my exhaust from popping and crackling everytime I change gear or when the rpm comes down after I rev it? I turned off dfco and it still does it. Thanks
do you have any videos on gen 4 torque tuning and especially e38 and 6l80 all of the videos cover gen v and its different
When I remove timing from the base table the toubo boost goes up and the knock comes back.
The car was tuned by someone the set everything aggressive.
How much advance are you seeing in the base table?
@@GoatRopeGarage -15° on some cells
In the base high octane table you have -15 degrees? You still using the factory boost control? Odd that removing timing would cause boost creep and knock.
@@GoatRopeGarage Yes the boost control is the factory ECM
More timing isn't always more power -- There is typically a "Max TQ Timing" chart as well right? If you have more timing than the Max TQ Timing, will the computer ignore your larger number? i.e. could you add 20 degrees and it would be ignored as the VCM will chose the MAX TQ value as opposed to your (larger than max TQ) value?
You can exceed that value and it will go higher but I generally use it as a guideline of where the max power is on the platform as you're correct, more timing doesn't always mean more power.
@@GoatRopeGarage So if the Max TQ timing table doesnt set a ceiling; then what does it do other than act as an informative repository for tuner reference?
In the absence of a dynamic. Can't you use the street as you were gaining data to get some good pulls on the street power to road more accurately than just a dynamic alone?
* Dyno, auto correct dynamic *
Yep, I prefer the street to tune
Hi kyleive been doing sum digging on hptuners and i dont think my vehicle is supported unfortunately. Its a holden commodore GM v6 l67 3800(3.8lt) 2000model sedan ( american engine) made in Australia. Our pcm's are delco compared 2 the delphi pcm found in American versions of the 3800 (3.8lt) which is supported by HPT. So im wondering if there is a way to tune the Aussie versions with HPT?
Man, if it's not on the list you're probably out of luck
what happens if in the log i got a -3 instead of a possitive number?
I’m curious what’s the difference between the high octane and the low octane spark table and which one do I need to worry about
You are normally in high octane but if your start getting knock it will shift towards the low octane. Tune the high table
@@GoatRopeGarage I usually copy high octane to both, and then subtract both where needed, while tuning. I am not a professional, however :o)
So this is how you street tune... how DO they do their tuning at the dyno? Are they able to fill in the whole table?
Not the whole table but more if they can shift load
@@GoatRopeGarage Cool... What do they do, make the dyno wheels harder to turn, or something?
U got any merch ???
Yeah, check out the website
Hey what is the music you have playing in this video?
It's commercial music I license for my channel. Catchy tune, huh?
@@GoatRopeGarage yeah, i like it a lot lol
can we apply these methods in other tuning softwares?
Yep
Hey, ive went through and set up the table like you've shown and my table isn't reading. Have you ever experienced or heard of this before? Any suggestion on what to try?
You don't have something reading in, is your wideband showing up?
@@GoatRopeGarage I just got the mpvi2 in yesterday. The wideband and everything else that goes along with it to hook up hasnt came in yet. I know you say timing should come after the maf and fuel, I'm just trying to see where it is that I'm knocking. I had it "tuned" after the cam swap and rebuild and now I'm getting the random knock sensor fault.
@@jeromypaxton4656 sorry if I'm way too late on this but I had a similar drama having missed setting up a PID on the left hand side of the scanner. This prevented my table from running due to not having 'airmass' being logged
Why does it so much advance in the areas that are below idle range and what effect will it make to increase or decrease it?
To pull power when you're off throttle
hellp hpw are you ? plz if i buy this hp tunner its difficult fot me to make a programing for 6.0 ls ECM i wanna swap my hummer h3 2006 3.5 to this ls2 generation 4 6.0?
Having trouble getting cylinder airmass to pop up. Anybody else have that issue
After I put my sloppy stage 2 cam in my 4.8l, will I need to adjust the fuel first then adjust the spark to make it idle on its own?
Might have to play with both a bit, dial your idle airflow down a bit and add some timing and you should be able to get it started so you can sort it out
My spark retard table show knock on Decelation (I know sounds weird as is first time I see this myself, but while watching the log as soon as I let off throttle start getting knock for who knows what reason), I try doing this but my maps are very different being am using a Ford and maps are load vs RPM. So I can't figure out how to set up the map correctly on the Datalog. I've been lowering spark on low loads at higher rpm and have solved my knock a bit, but would really like to know how to set this up like this.
Love the videos, very educational. Im trying to tune my 3800 seriesII 01 impala in open loop with hp tuners and cant seem to get my commanded afr to stay at 14.7 even with all tables set to14.7 and adders/subtractors zeroed. While idling in gear its commanded afr is 14.7 and while cruising the commanded afr will go will climb up to 16.8 depending on the rpms, kpa, and speed. I also get knock retard on start up and while crusing. My Afr is 14.7 - 15, Ive subtracted 5 degrees from the entire tables on both hi and low octane, logged the changes and knock seems to get worse even after adjusting the maf to get a 14.7 afr during cruise. Is the commanded afr what the car wants in order to be happy ?
Heres a list if this of mods done to my car. The turbo was a kit and came with a tuned pcm
L67 block with stock internals, Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain, #136 comp cam springs intalled @ 1.43", Exhaust Valves - 1.57", Intake Valves - 1.84", PNP Cylinder Heads, 0.62" Thick 5 Layer Head Gasket, Custom Lenth Pushrods, Ls7 Roller Lifters, Stg 4 Turbo Cam 224/218 LSA 116* Overlap -11*, lucas 42.5lbs Injectors, Garrett T3/T4 Turbo, AutoLite Xp103 gapped @.030", Front & Rear Powerlog headers, Corsa 2.5" Cat Back Exhaust, Triple Edge Performance Transmission 3.29 gear ratio
No advice????? Then why tell people to ask question when you aint going to answer? Getting answers for hp tuners is like trying to get a toddler to take medication. Everyone locks their lips and shakes their head, and run off.
I'm confused... I'm tracking what you're doing, but your spark table is showing at idle you have advance in the teens or the 20's, but when you're scanning before you do your log, the actual spark it's showing is around zero and sometimes even negative. What gives?
There are modifiers that affect the spark output, in this case it’s the virtual torque. You can log the additional spark modifiers to see what is adding or pulling timing on top of your base table. The low spark is more of a 5th gen ecu issue as they rely heavily on spark to adjust torque output. The Gen 3/4 ecus don’t use torque for engine control.
Could you log torque and hp(math) pids and see if it yields results? Mbt method without a dyno? Thought about doing this at least in the cruise areas to get mpg up.
I'm not sure, honestly, as I believe the torque is a factor is volumetric efficiency and so it changes as you dial it in.
I feel like these videos are not for newbs to tuning such as myself that are not tuning literate. LOL. I have a 2011 Silverado extended cab 4.8L single 70mm turbo and built 4L80E and now have to do some remote tuning and learn this because the "reputable" shop I used to tune my setup basically corrupted my ECM and now I am left with fixing it. Can't trust anyone nowadays when it.comes to the almighty dollar.
Even with the stock map I get knock. Around 3K & 5200 and what's really interesting is when I pull away from a stop it registers like 6°s! Wtf? I've added and subtracted it's just always there. Btw it's not an LS engine.
What's it on, Bill?
@@GoatRopeGarage it's a gmc Canyon with a 3.5 inline 5 cylinder Atlas engine. The whole damn thing is wierd! The VE table doesn't use normal %, it show the actual number, but that's a separate issue.
Hmm, what all have you done to it?
You're killing me with how many ads your videos have now!
I don't add them, Google does
@@GoatRopeGarage I've never looked into how google does the advertising and I don't mind watching an ad or 2 to support your efforts. Your videos are fantastic, its frustrating though when there are 6 or more ads which breaks the thought train.
Can you help me with timing on my cammed 5.7 hemi i will pay you money
It's not correct way to tune ignition. You rely on actual knock sensing from ECM which can give you false knock i.e. when changing exhaust or adding stroker. Another thing is that in NA engines sweet for best timing is way before knock. Without torque measure is not fine tune, just guess tune
tuning "until it knocks" has absolutely no scientific meaning. in low load you could be 10 degrees past MBT and losing power before having knock. this of course with the right fuel for that engine/CR and low iat. check HPA videos.
Of course, if you have a dyno you've got more options. As a general rule, max timing=max power. Of course there are exceptions, but with no dyno to be able to test it, you just kinda have to stick with rules of thumb.
So basically we just have to add timing in the operating areas that we are in and keep adding till we see knock and dial it back 1-2 degrees and thats it ? Simple !!!!!!
Great video. You present well. Except for I find your frantic arm waving extremely distracting. My suggestion would be don't talk with your hands.
Thank you for your efforts.
in my opinion you are not teaching me how to tune you are just showing me what you are doing. Not bashing or anything im just making a statement. In other words why are you doing the things that you are doing?
You need to watch some of the other videos where I talk specifically about how things work and what adjustments we make and why. This is just a video that goes through the steps of tuning.
Another great video