Ok, but never break loose the locking screw to adjust fuel level with car running or fuel pump on, at least not in a how to explanation. Now after doing it a few times you get a feel for loosing it and turning hex and not getting sprayed with fuel. Other thing not mentioned, holley used crappy paper washers that stick to lock screw and adj nut, so the second you break them loose the paper washers are junk, because they just tore in half and will never seal agin.
Although I agree that with a sight glass carb, adjusting the float down will raise the fuel level in the bowl and give you a wacky reading,.... EVERYBODY KNOWS YOU MUST RUN THE ENGINE TO STABILIZE THE FUEL LEVEL! Even if they didn't know that, after they take it out for a test, they'll see the level is off, then readjust the float level. Anyone with a carb, with a sight plug would know this, or they would never attempt to adjust it, not knowing that. Anyone who doesn't know to stabilize the float reading, would also not know what the bloody level should even be! They wouldn't even know that it's even adjustable, or where or how to adjust the floats! I love your vids, but this vid was not needed lol.
Jake, you're wrong. The time honored method of adjusting the float height with a sight plug is to shake the engine side to side and let the excess fuel dribble out, then continue with the adjustment. Waiting for the engine to consume the extra fuel, ESPECIALLY on the secondary side is a foolish waste of time. Now, the reason I made this video, was because I had just watched a video where an extremely well known UA-camr adjusted the secondary float on a sight glass carburetor clear down to oblivion and as a result developed a "mystery problem" that completely choked off his engines performance. After scanning through over a thousand comments on that video, and seeing that not one single person caught the oversight, I felt compelled to make this one.
Anytime you lower the float you want to let it idle and even out the float bowl on its own. It does work with a sight glass style, you do not have to drain it but that way is definitely faster than waiting for the motor to consume it. Raising it is always way faster so I'll set a new carb up with them intentionally low so it doesn't take as long to get them set once you start.
I was wondering, that what keeps the motor running if the fuel does not come out from the float chambers. Well there is a few other things i dont understand.😳
@@leadfoot5427 Exactly. I was just wanting to point out that Tony saying the only way is to drain it and start over isn't true. I think he may not have meant to make it sound that way but it's how it sounded to me.
I've adjusted sight glass carbs back down while the engine was running, had no problem with it. So long as the engine is sucking fuel out of the bowl, it has never been a problem for me.
Tony! You just solved a mystery I've been wondering about for 25 years! I got a pile of old holley carbs and parts with an old 63 Maxwedge I bought in the 90's, some of the sight plugs were drilled and tapped and were plugged with a 1/4-20 screw and rubber washer and no one could tell me why. Now it's obvious that with the whole plug out you adjust the level for the street and with just the screw out the bottom of the hole is higher and you're set up for dragging. Neat
Great tips. I used the old holly carbs with the screw in plugs on our circle track car I found a business card or a finger covering half the the hole worked to set the floats. Once you got it where you wanted just screw the plug back in. On circle track cars i also remember modifying the floats so they wouldn't flood the motor on the curves by making them a wedge shape.
A benefit I've had working on so many holley carbs in the marine industry is that has been the only place I ever seen them use an anti-splash baffle at the back of the float. They make a world of difference when used on the track.
Holley sells the clear plastic sight plugs to make the higher fuel level adjustment. You are supposed to remove them and put the metal ones back in when done adjusting. The problem is that many people left them in thinking they were a suitable replacement or sight glass conversion. Well they would eventually crack or break off and burn down the car. So if you do use them please dont leave them in.
@@cuzz63 To be clear, Im talking about the clear plastic plugs that screw in like the metal ones, not the many different types clear bowl site windows. If youve got the clear plastic screw in plugs I would replace them with some brass ones. Its only like 5 bucks. Holley does not sell the clear plastic ones anymore. Probably because of the fire hazard if left in.
I came across this issue and thought the adjustment mechanism was broken. I could not get the float to go down. I then got it to work at another time and said to myself "it fixed itself" :) Great video !!!
Like #99! Never knew that about lowering the float displacing fuel like that! I've always just had sight-plugs, but concede that the sight-glass is better.
Left a comment and question on one of your other videos about my fuel level being too high on my rear sight glass. Low and behold you had this video explaining everything perfectly! Thank you sir!
Thank You Tony. Gonna add this to my investigations, process of illinations, why my car wants to lay over at about 5k. 750 vacuum secondary. Can't Gunfight with it doing that.
I love the carb videos. I did not know that it was a racing setting and a street setting for the floats but it makes a lot of sense that the extra fuel needs someplace to go. My car has always had fuel issues and I notice that when I cut the pump off while the engine is running as the fuel gets lower in the sight glass the idle gets better and the 440 runs smoother thanks again Tony.
That is the one advantage uncle tony , not just adjusting the float but having the option to with a holley .... you can make it work on the street , strip or off road .
Ok Tony I just put a message here and wanted to get back and say forget the question I asked you,I learned something,the billet block I asked about and I said they have the spot there,well it turns out they drill and tap and put an Allen screw in it that if you look with a magnifying glass or have good eyes you can see.put the right Allen wrench on it and spin it out and replace it with the right screw.this was much easier than I thought.thanks for the help Tony.lol
I never messed around with Holley carbs.. crazy huh… 40 years of messing with engines.. I acquired a quadrajet replacement spread bore Holley .. NOS 750 cfm. Now I have some more basic knowledge in case I use that carb on one of my Buicks… however I am one of those quadrajet nuts… 😁
There are never enough carburetor videos. I messed up with the floats and hurt the engine in my classic car. Hadn’t done it in 30 years, but still. Thanks Tony
@@simonh5110 I am thinking maybe he ran it lean at high rpm. That will cause detination! But I try to get the tune closer before my engine feels the pain!
Thanks for sharing, great information, noone actually explained exactly how to adjust the float level, I was 28 when I started my apprenticeship, so most thought I was 10 years into mechanic not just starting, I had general knowledge could change engines, change part's but not all the technical stuff, thanks, all the best to yous and your loved ones
A whole 5 days for the next carb instalment? That’s an eternity away! Thanks Uncle, always been a Holley guy but never knew of the correct sight glass adjustment. I’ve been tweaking with a Street demon carb and though it’s not an out and out high performance unit; it’s got precision metering and tiny primaries.
Tony, you could do carb videos every day. I learn alot from them. Make sure to keep the 2 little gaskets handy for the set screw and nut. They rip if sitting for a while.
Strangely enough, as a GM guy who has always had AFBs or Q-jets, I needed this. I just bought a very old Corvette with a Holley. I was about to start looking up videos on youtube ad I saw that UTG just uploaded. Thanks Tony!
One old trick I used was to have someone lightly power brake engine and adjust to trickle out of flow plug. Seems like it gave me about right level for performance carb prior to sight glass. Always had a 4 gas analyzer to finish jetting, transfers, accel pump, power valve tining though. B4 days of AF guages.
Rev that engine a few times with the accelerator pumps to bring your level back down after you lower your float. Always do float adjustments in small amounts and allow the carb bowl level to to stabilize after you've used some of the fuel (Idling or revving). Good info Tony, Thanks! Cheerz!!!!
great vid. you can also adjust the level of a sight glass carb with the engine running. slowly lower the adjustment and give the engine time to burn some fuel, then the level will be stabi!ized.
Tony. I appreciate ALL and ANY of your carburetor videos. Whenever you want to make them. Rinse and Repeat. I will eventually absorb at least some of your wonderful knowledge, Sir! Cheers, Chuck in Florida.
As a kid in high school and into my 20's we all knew the "one flat out" adjustment for Holley carbs. If you have the sight glass and raised it too much do you really need to drain the bowl? Can't you just let the engine burn some of it after lowering the float? Or is that too slow? Seems like the accelerator pump with the engine running would lower it pretty quickly.
I used to have a Rambler American with a 199cid straight six. It had a single barrel carb. The repair manual said they used, I believe, 52 versions of that carburetor. Guess they felt a need to change weekly!
Good video. had to laugh at the last bit where he says glass is nicer than having gas trickling out all over the motor...says the guy who squirts bottles of gas all over the engine looking for vacuum leaks..lol..
Six Pack outboard carbs with the sight plug hole lower than the center carb. Always used a temporary clear sight plug to set the fuel level to the center of the sight plug hole. I wonder how many people do not realize the difference and have issues with low fuel level in the outboards.
Minor quibble, but it's important to get the terminology correct to minimize confusion. You said you're adjusting the "float bowl" multiple times starting at 2:12, but you're not adjusting the float bowl, you're adjusting the float. The float is inside the float bowl, which is the housing.
I had problems when I was in my 20's (35 years ago now) with adjusting Holley 4 bbl floats. On the primary side (front), the fuel will go down a bit from the idle circuit, but even with the plugs (rather than sight glasses) it took me a bit to figure out how to set the rear float level right.
I have a not so funny story about trying to put plastic sight plugs in a Holley. One snapped off in the carb rather than coming back out, and when drilling it out hit the float. It was just a slight nick in a foam and coated float, but that will sink in time. When repairing and upgrading that I discovered the carb main body had Heli coils and pulled the threads out. So on to buying a new main body. Heli coils are fine when the metals are similar, but a full thread insert is a must in some cases. I don't recall if there was enough room for one in the first place, but certainly not after stripping out the Heli coil oversize. The down side of a Heli coil is that it only adds strength to how deep the threads of a bolt engages , and has the same thread pitch, which might have been part of the problem from the start. Most bolt threads are only just so accurate, so some of the threads might get a lot more stress than others. If they are pushed to failure, now you just have the remaining threads taking up the slack... and odds are it will fail sooner or later.
You just tweeked my racing knowledge one flat backward. There is always place for improvement, if not reinforcing the existing one. For the Backyard DIY mecanic, we dont set caburators every weeks. Well actually we do but not always the right way! Next stop. Miramichi dragway park in May. After the snow melts.
found this video while trying to adjust a holley on a 351 winsor in a boat. great tips along with other videos from utg on it. one stipulation i had was my carb had no screw on top for float adjustment! im assuming its a fixed hight float version
Tony, how come you can't lower the float a little while reving the engine to lower the fuel level. I'd imagine it wouldn't work if you really over did it but if it was just a little high wouldn't it work?
I now know why my brawler 650 is running rich. I thought the sight glass should be filled to the top which is how it came set. But no it needs to be just at the bottom of the sight glass. I'll adjust it tomorrow morning and see.
You won't find me complaining about a Holley carburetor video. I have some dialing-in to do on my 65 Travelall, so I'm all ears. Oh, and eyes too I guess.
Early type (late 50s) Holleys do not have the externally adjustable float/needle-and-seat and in fact do not use the same needle and seat assembly. The bowls have to be removed to adjust them.
Tony on you mission impossible project I remembered that a friend told me years back that at the circle track where he was a tech inspector the guys started using a autolite carb base and a holley top or vice versa , to get more air threw the carb. He said that he looked right at it and missed it several times. He has since passed on but I could ask around for more info. Just a tidbit of info that could possibly help the 318 project out. Fred
100% correct. I work at Holley and completely agree with.
I'll pin this, Dennis. Thank you.
Ok, but never break loose the locking screw to adjust fuel level with car running or fuel pump on, at least not in a how to explanation. Now after doing it a few times you get a feel for loosing it and turning hex and not getting sprayed with fuel.
Other thing not mentioned, holley used crappy paper washers that stick to lock screw and adj nut, so the second you break them loose the paper washers are junk, because they just tore in half and will never seal agin.
Great 👍 Have questions for you maybe you can help?
Although I agree that with a sight glass carb, adjusting the float down will raise the fuel level in the bowl and give you a wacky reading,.... EVERYBODY KNOWS YOU MUST RUN THE ENGINE TO STABILIZE THE FUEL LEVEL!
Even if they didn't know that, after they take it out for a test, they'll see the level is off, then readjust the float level.
Anyone with a carb, with a sight plug would know this, or they would never attempt to adjust it, not knowing that.
Anyone who doesn't know to stabilize the float reading, would also not know what the bloody level should even be! They wouldn't even know that it's even adjustable, or where or how to adjust the floats!
I love your vids, but this vid was not needed lol.
Jake, you're wrong. The time honored method of adjusting the float height with a sight plug is to shake the engine side to side and let the excess fuel dribble out, then continue with the adjustment. Waiting for the engine to consume the extra fuel, ESPECIALLY on the secondary side is a foolish waste of time.
Now, the reason I made this video, was because I had just watched a video where an extremely well known UA-camr adjusted the secondary float on a sight glass carburetor clear down to oblivion and as a result developed a "mystery problem" that completely choked off his engines performance.
After scanning through over a thousand comments on that video, and seeing that not one single person caught the oversight, I felt compelled to make this one.
UNCLE TONY, YOU ARE A WONDERFUL PERSON
Anytime you lower the float you want to let it idle and even out the float bowl on its own. It does work with a sight glass style, you do not have to drain it but that way is definitely faster than waiting for the motor to consume it. Raising it is always way faster so I'll set a new carb up with them intentionally low so it doesn't take as long to get them set once you start.
rev the engine, the accel pump will take care of the extra fuel q u q
This is what I was thinking. It just takes a little patience.
I was wondering, that what keeps the motor running if the fuel does not come out from the float chambers. Well there is a few other things i dont understand.😳
@@leadfoot5427 Exactly. I was just wanting to point out that Tony saying the only way is to drain it and start over isn't true. I think he may not have meant to make it sound that way but it's how it sounded to me.
I've adjusted sight glass carbs back down while the engine was running, had no problem with it.
So long as the engine is sucking fuel out of the bowl, it has never been a problem for me.
Yes!! Another Carb video!
The Holley clear sight plugs make life much easier.
Tony! You just solved a mystery I've been wondering about for 25 years! I got a pile of old holley carbs and parts with an old 63 Maxwedge I bought in the 90's, some of the sight plugs were drilled and tapped and were plugged with a 1/4-20 screw and rubber washer and no one could tell me why. Now it's obvious that with the whole plug out you adjust the level for the street and with just the screw out the bottom of the hole is higher and you're set up for dragging. Neat
I have about six carburetors laying around I have to start rebuilding I have my notepad and pencil ready 😂😂😂 keep it coming
How in the world did you get yourself into repairing 6 carbs without already knowing carb basics?
I greatly admire your confidence
@@Onewheelordeal gotta start somewhere 😂😂😂
There all mine too lol old one I never through out
Great tips.
I used the old holly carbs with the screw in plugs on our circle track car I found a business card or a finger covering half the the hole worked to set the floats. Once you got it where you wanted just screw the plug back in.
On circle track cars i also remember modifying the floats so they wouldn't flood the motor on the curves by making them a wedge shape.
Uncle Tony, you can never do too many carburetor videos, said the guy headed outside to redo his float height.
Tony, i will watch every carb video you do. I learn something valuable every single time.
A benefit I've had working on so many holley carbs in the marine industry is that has been the only place I ever seen them use an anti-splash baffle at the back of the float. They make a world of difference when used on the track.
It probably would O.F.F. road too, I wasn’t aware this existed.
Off road… I’m not sure what autocorrect was thinking.
Your carburetor videos are some of my favorites. Your recent rear end videos were really good too.
I can see people not knowing this info amd chasing the fuel level on a sight glass carb forever. Thanks Uncle Tony
Holley sells the clear plastic sight plugs to make the higher fuel level adjustment. You are supposed to remove them and put the metal ones back in when done adjusting. The problem is that many people left them in thinking they were a suitable replacement or sight glass conversion. Well they would eventually crack or break off and burn down the car. So if you do use them please dont leave them in.
My carb came with them installed and no plugs to replace them with..your claim makes no sense.
@@cuzz63 To be clear, Im talking about the clear plastic plugs that screw in like the metal ones, not the many different types clear bowl site windows. If youve got the clear plastic screw in plugs I would replace them with some brass ones. Its only like 5 bucks. Holley does not sell the clear plastic ones anymore. Probably because of the fire hazard if left in.
@@georgesmith739 thanks.
I came across this issue and thought the adjustment mechanism was broken. I could not get the float to go down. I then got it to work at another time and said to myself "it fixed itself" :) Great video !!!
I always installed “vent whistles “ on drag racing Holleys. They help avoid the flooding when exiting the burnout and doing dry hops.
My hubby drilled a small hole in the plug on the old style in the center and used it raise the floats, then replaced it quickly! With a solid plug !
Like #99!
Never knew that about lowering the float displacing fuel like that! I've always just had sight-plugs, but concede that the sight-glass is better.
Im all for more carb videos. The more i can watch before my engine is done thr better
Left a comment and question on one of your other videos about my fuel level being too high on my rear sight glass. Low and behold you had this video explaining everything perfectly! Thank you sir!
We usually wacked the throttle a few times to use some fuel up but it was with an electric fuel pump.
I'd love to see you do an in depth video on the T quad.
Thank You Tony. Gonna add this to my investigations, process of illinations, why my car wants to lay over at about 5k. 750 vacuum secondary. Can't Gunfight with it doing that.
I love the carb videos. I did not know that it was a racing setting and a street setting for the floats but it makes a lot of sense that the extra fuel needs someplace to go. My car has always had fuel issues and I notice that when I cut the pump off while the engine is running as the fuel gets lower in the sight glass the idle gets better and the 440 runs smoother thanks again Tony.
That is the one advantage uncle tony , not just adjusting the float but having the option to with a holley .... you can make it work on the street , strip or off road .
I would be happy with more carburetor videos! I want to learn all there is to know about them. Even if alot of would be irrelevant
Ok Tony I just put a message here and wanted to get back and say forget the question I asked you,I learned something,the billet block I asked about and I said they have the spot there,well it turns out they drill and tap and put an Allen screw in it that if you look with a magnifying glass or have good eyes you can see.put the right Allen wrench on it and spin it out and replace it with the right screw.this was much easier than I thought.thanks for the help Tony.lol
I got something out of that. Thank you Tony.
I never messed around with Holley carbs.. crazy huh… 40 years of messing with engines.. I acquired a quadrajet replacement spread bore Holley .. NOS 750 cfm. Now I have some more basic knowledge in case I use that carb on one of my Buicks… however I am one of those quadrajet nuts… 😁
NOT ANOTHER CAEBURETOR VIDEO! Just for you, UncT!
There are never enough carburetor videos. I messed up with the floats and hurt the engine in my classic car. Hadn’t done it in 30 years, but still. Thanks Tony
How so did you hurt the engine?
@@simonh5110 lol
@@steveib724 lol what I’m curious…
@@simonh5110 me to me to he's worried he washed the rings maybe with flooding the motor. might have vintage engine idn 👍
@@simonh5110 I am thinking maybe he ran it lean at high rpm. That will cause detination! But I try to get the tune closer before my engine feels the pain!
Thanks for sharing, great information, noone actually explained exactly how to adjust the float level, I was 28 when I started my apprenticeship, so most thought I was 10 years into mechanic not just starting, I had general knowledge could change engines, change part's but not all the technical stuff, thanks, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Keep the carburetor videos coming. I'm having difficulties with idle on my demon carb sitting on a 496 stroker... Appreciate your videos 👍
I don't have any newer carbs but I thank you for your help GODSPEED
A whole 5 days for the next carb instalment? That’s an eternity away!
Thanks Uncle, always been a Holley guy but never knew of the correct sight glass adjustment. I’ve been tweaking with a Street demon carb and though it’s not an out and out high performance unit; it’s got precision metering and tiny primaries.
Good Point on adjusting with a sight glass!!!
Tony, you could do carb videos every day. I learn alot from them. Make sure to keep the 2 little gaskets handy for the set screw and nut. They rip if sitting for a while.
Another good one.Thanks Tony & Cathy
Great video, brother.
Strangely enough, as a GM guy who has always had AFBs or Q-jets, I needed this. I just bought a very old Corvette with a Holley. I was about to start looking up videos on youtube ad I saw that UTG just uploaded. Thanks Tony!
LOVE The Carb Vids!...Keep them coming.
Always great spot on carburetor videos from you Uncle Tony AND looking forward to your next one! 🏆🏁
YES!! Another carburetor video!!!
I'm working and I'm saving. There's a classic American machine out there somewhere just for me.
🤞 And I can't wait.
I can't wait for the next upcoming carb video ☺️!
Always been a Q-jet fan but my next purchase will be a Holley type carb. Thank you for the information.
I like your carb tuning tips. Really have been helpful for me!
I for one Love your carburetor videos !! Thanks Tony !
Always learn something new every time I watch your videos I appreciate the information
This was an Excellent explanation Tony! Thank you.
Great topic! I ran into sight glass thing! Good knowing to start at the bottom! Awesome thanks!
Great info, thanks! I have a new Holley 750 double pumper for my 440 that has not been "dialed in" yet.
One old trick I used was to have someone lightly power brake engine and adjust to trickle out of flow plug. Seems like it gave me about right level for performance carb prior to sight glass. Always had a 4 gas analyzer to finish jetting, transfers, accel pump, power valve tining though. B4 days of AF guages.
Rev that engine a few times with the accelerator pumps to bring your level back down after you lower your float. Always do float adjustments in small amounts and allow the carb bowl level to to stabilize after you've used some of the fuel (Idling or revving).
Good info Tony, Thanks!
Cheerz!!!!
great vid. you can also adjust the level of a sight glass carb with the engine running. slowly lower the adjustment and give the engine time to burn some fuel, then the level will be stabi!ized.
I love Carburetor videos.
Tony. I appreciate ALL and ANY of your carburetor videos. Whenever you want to make them. Rinse and Repeat. I will eventually absorb at least some of your wonderful knowledge, Sir! Cheers, Chuck in Florida.
Love me a good carburetor video!
Thanks Tony, that’s some great insights there
Got any hot tips on changing Holley throttle shaft bushings?
Awesome Tip !
Wow, i have da those sight window carbs and never dawned on me to adjust as you pointed out! GREAT INFO THANKS!
I love your carburetor videos, I’ve learned quite a bit! Thanks Tony!
PLEASE MORE CARBURETOR VIDEOS!!
As a kid in high school and into my 20's we all knew the "one flat out" adjustment for Holley carbs. If you have the sight glass and raised it too much do you really need to drain the bowl? Can't you just let the engine burn some of it after lowering the float? Or is that too slow? Seems like the accelerator pump with the engine running would lower it pretty quickly.
I used to have a Rambler American with a 199cid straight six. It had a single barrel carb. The repair manual said they used, I believe, 52 versions of that carburetor. Guess they felt a need to change weekly!
Good video. had to laugh at the last bit where he says glass is nicer than having gas trickling out all over the motor...says the guy who squirts bottles of gas all over the engine looking for vacuum leaks..lol..
While smoking a cigarette!! LOL Its all good.
Six Pack outboard carbs with the sight plug hole lower than the center carb. Always used a temporary clear sight plug to set the fuel level to the center of the sight plug hole. I wonder how many people do not realize the difference and have issues with low fuel level in the outboards.
Minor quibble, but it's important to get the terminology correct to minimize confusion. You said you're adjusting the "float bowl" multiple times starting at 2:12, but you're not adjusting the float bowl, you're adjusting the float. The float is inside the float bowl, which is the housing.
I had problems when I was in my 20's (35 years ago now) with adjusting Holley 4 bbl floats. On the primary side (front), the fuel will go down a bit from the idle circuit, but even with the plugs (rather than sight glasses) it took me a bit to figure out how to set the rear float level right.
Love it. Carburetors very educational. Thank you. UTG
I have a not so funny story about trying to put plastic sight plugs in a Holley. One snapped off in the carb rather than coming back out, and when drilling it out hit the float. It was just a slight nick in a foam and coated float, but that will sink in time. When repairing and upgrading that I discovered the carb main body had Heli coils and pulled the threads out. So on to buying a new main body. Heli coils are fine when the metals are similar, but a full thread insert is a must in some cases. I don't recall if there was enough room for one in the first place, but certainly not after stripping out the Heli coil oversize. The down side of a Heli coil is that it only adds strength to how deep the threads of a bolt engages , and has the same thread pitch, which might have been part of the problem from the start. Most bolt threads are only just so accurate, so some of the threads might get a lot more stress than others. If they are pushed to failure, now you just have the remaining threads taking up the slack... and odds are it will fail sooner or later.
You just tweeked my racing knowledge one flat backward. There is always place for improvement, if not reinforcing the existing one. For the Backyard DIY mecanic, we dont set caburators every weeks. Well actually we do but not always the right way! Next stop.
Miramichi dragway park in May. After the snow melts.
Thank you
For clarifying
Yes ive done that as you described
I watch most of ypur videos
Thank you very much
Mr. Tony I wish you was my uncle you're so smart one brilliant human being you are my God
Can you do setting up carburetor for turbos?
Outstanding explanations!
Carburetor is an art to adjust 💯👍
Wow nice tips. Never knew that on the sight bowls.
Thanks Tony. this explains a lot.
Man I just done a sight glass today, should have watched this first
found this video while trying to adjust a holley on a 351 winsor in a boat. great tips along with other videos from utg on it. one stipulation i had was my carb had no screw on top for float adjustment! im assuming its a fixed hight float version
we need the carb vidz keep it up Tony
I ❤ Carb video’s … Just a Ford Guy👍🏼
Tony, how come you can't lower the float a little while reving the engine to lower the fuel level. I'd imagine it wouldn't work if you really over did it but if it was just a little high wouldn't it work?
Also the relatively cheap Holley Street Avenger carbs come with the sight glasses.
Thanks! Take the weekend off (that's two days...)
The only problem with adjusting the old ones so fuel will just run out is when the motor is shaking around because of the cam, it gets hard to do.
I used edelbrock carbs. Not as easy to adjust floats on one of these. But once done,they work well.
I now know why my brawler 650 is running rich. I thought the sight glass should be filled to the top which is how it came set. But no it needs to be just at the bottom of the sight glass. I'll adjust it tomorrow morning and see.
Uncle Tony....are you appropriating the 1958 Edsel's engine color for that big block Mopar?
i dont mind the carb videos love em just needs to have some alternate brand show how too. rochesters are awsome carbs too
UT could you do a video on summit carbs ?
Wait... I saw those metering blocks, is Tony going to join the shine side?
Holley jets are numbered by flow rate not the hole size. The bowl level is critical as the volume weight of the fuel affects the flow through the jet.
You won't find me complaining about a Holley carburetor video. I have some dialing-in to do on my 65 Travelall, so I'm all ears. Oh, and eyes too I guess.
AWESOME vid UT....great info ty....MOPAR 4 EVER.
Early type (late 50s) Holleys do not have the externally adjustable float/needle-and-seat and in fact do not use the same needle and seat assembly.
The bowls have to be removed to adjust them.
Tony on you mission impossible project I remembered that a friend told me years back that at the circle track where he was a tech inspector the guys started using a autolite carb base and a holley top or vice versa , to get more air threw the carb. He said that he looked right at it and missed it several times. He has since passed on but I could ask around for more info. Just a tidbit of info that could possibly help the 318 project out. Fred