Absolutely the BEST video on YT for this problem!..thanks for all the details that most dont have a clue..man, you covered everything and you knocked it outta the park! Great Job!
Hi Tone, thank you for great content. I have 2006 6.0 diesel that has issue with: A. not responding to the throttle accurately, delayed B. not reaching full RPM range (1800 to 2000 MAX RPM) at full throttle (at neutral gear or when driving) C. quits after 30 sec, 2,4 or 6 min. and/or unpredictable times, at idle or higher RPMs, D. at idle scanner tool displays (ICP psi actual and IPR % ) graph that looks like two waves that constantly go up and down opposite of each other. E. FICM at 48 Volt constantly F. Base oil pressure test PASSED G. Fuel filter bubble test PASSED H. Fuel pressure test with the engine load test PASSED Replaced (USING OEM PARTS) 1.all oil rail Orings and stand pipes, dummy plugs 2. Sensors: ICP, IPR, Exhaust back pressure, cam. & crank positioning, 3. FICM & ECM Please let me know what would you do to fix this problem. ua-cam.com/video/f1cxJT2paj8/v-deo.html
First thank you for watching and I really hope to be able to help you. Instagram is easier for me to message back and forth. Send me all this info on Instagram and we will go from there.
I watched this video from beginning to end. This was super informative. I just picked up a 2006 f250 6.0 It sat for 2 years I got it started and drove it from CA to AZ now I can’t get it to start and stay on. I have an OBD reader coming in today with live data. Going to hook it up and check my pressures and voltages. Thank you for your hard work on the video.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone replaced icp vehicle runs fine at city speeds but once on the highway it eventually loses power sputters for a bit then when i come to a complete stop it dies.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone couldnt find you on insta..yohr link just takes me to homepage. SO 2003 f250 6.0 will idle fine and drivw at city speeds 35-45 mph no problem..once i hit the high way though it gwts up to 65/70 and the speedometer just goes down rpms stay the same until i let off pedal then thwy just drop and wont go back up vehicle will studder and sputter then die once i put it in park. also i had it idling for 2 hours today no issue. but once it dies it has to sit for 2-5 mins and then it will restart and sound normal then a few more miles at high speed it repeats the issue. but once i get back to town and lower speeds its perfectly normal. not dtc codes check engine light etc it also starts on a dime.
Awesome man! I’m in the middle of troubleshooting a no start on an 04 excursion right now. Wasn’t building icp. Waiting for a new ipr to come in but the visual you did with the air test and the tubes made me order the test kit and now ill do the air test as well. Not all hero’s wear capes! Thanks!
Thanks for this video. You explain the issues very well. I had a mechanic rebuild my engine last year, and it died 8 weeks later, and he didn't warranty his work. I ended rebuilding it myself with starting issues when hot. I replaced the nipple seals, downspout, dummy plugs and all the seals on the HPOP. I hope to start it tomorrow.
Sorry for your troubles and the mechanic not warrantying his work. That is no good. If you have any issues with this please feel free to message me on Instagram and I will help you out. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing this! I just got a non running 6.0 truck, and I am doing some preliminary research. Videos like yours make the learning process very enjoyable, thank you again
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks a lot! I'll follow you. Also, thank you for the tidbit on the 10 seconds of cranking. My batteries didn't let me go longer, but great info to know
@@flux_core_fx also check out dieseltechron and Fordtechmakuloco and automedic garage. TooManyToys is really the best though, but he doesn’t have diagnostic videos like this though, but you will learn more about the 6.0 from him than any other. He is a master.
I'm on a mission to tell everyone, the last thing you do before you take out the valve cover bolts is plug all openings and clean clean clean the entire area around and above the covers and of course the covers themselves. I watch all the 6.0 videos and see guys, time after time, risking some piece of grit or grime falling off the wiring or turbo or....It's not worth the risk, and makes visual inspection of everything not just easier and better, but flat meaningfully possible. Working with grit and grime all around the components is the way many amateurs wind up paying some grinning "professional" mechanic WAY too much to fix something the layman got right in general, but didn't notice that big chunk of crud fall off the hood into an opening to the oil channels while he was moving around the truck and bumped something loose while not watching/noticing. You cannot work on engines etc. in any vehicle while it is covered with crud, period. Cleaning very thoroughly makes auto repairs way more convenient, productive, dependable...and last but not least WAY less unpleasant. If you don't believe me, just give it a try once. At the machine shop I worked at nobody touched an engine until it had been steam cleaned. Hundreds of potentially expensive comebacks and future disgruntled customers were avoided because you could actually see quite clearly everything from leaks to broken wiring and components. If you think working on a nice clean engine isn't really that much less unpleasant, you haven't spent much time working on engines. A person who works on a dirty engine is giving themselves a big handicap in so many ways. And finally, dirt holds in engine heat and holds moisture and corrosive elements that degrade things like wiring etc. ..
I try my damndest to let every one know to spray all the dirt and dust away before opening up any engine component. I am sure I do not always give that advice as I am making my video while I am a flat rate tech. Thank you for watching.
@@eugeneconger9439 water in the fuel..there are so many good videos on these symptoms. Dieseltechron, automedic garage, Fordtechmakuloco, you have to dig. Get an Autel analyzer that does cylinder contribution/misfire reading. Also, get a Scangauge II and monitor FICM voltage, ICP and oil and coolant temps. Most of the rough running at cold idle I’ve had was water in fuel/bad fuel, and dirty sticky injectors. Try Hotshots Secret. Works well for me. And drain your water trap.
Just watched your video about troubleshooting the HPO system on 6.0. I’m in the process of dealing with that on mine. I thought it was FICM related. New FICM with tune, new high amp alternator and new batteries…..still long crank start. Brought to my preferred garage today and when dropping it off, no start…..I bought the test tool which threads into the IPR from Accurate Diesel. I intend to leave it with the young lad who is my awesome Ford Dealer Diesel Tech. Your video was fantastic. 100% spot on and we’ll done. Thanks for providing it.
Very good video, saved and would certainly recommend it but for anyone watching,, @24:52 that is the oil drain back tube inlet to the hpop cover not where the ipr sensor connects.
Good video. I have a crank no start on my 05 6.0. In an emergency earlier i had to hit with small shot of either to start. Once she was running, she ran good. But at home, wont start. Stan pipes and dummy plugs are getting ordered
Thank you. During your testing if you have any questions please feel free to message me on Instagram for further help I don't mind. Thank you very much for watching I appreciate it.
Thank you you are the clearest on what to check I have one now that I'm having trouble with I put a oil cooler and a new turbo on it and it ran once and it was blowing oil out of the exhaust so I thought I did something wrong then I couldn't get it to start so I removed the IPR and the screen was collapsed so I put a new one in and then it started and ran for about 10 minutes then died and I haven't got it to run after that it has become a nightmare for me I just made a presser fitting to put in the icp to check for leaks if there is anything else please help me with this thing
Thank you for the compliment on the video, sorry you are having trouble. If you message me on Instagram I can try to help you. Send me the vehicle info and we can go from there. Thanks for watching.
Ok great, if you are still having an issue head on over to my instagram and you can send me a message there and I can try to help. It is Tone BTW. Thank you for watching.
That’s what makes the air test difficult, once the oil is out of the rail, the air leaks out pretty easy. Creates a lot of doubt, also once the truck is all back together, that long crank creates some worry too lol.
Well I find it to still work the same when air checking. The only thing that is difficult is yes the long crank when finished because all the oil has been purged out. Thank you for watching, if you have any questions hit me up.
verry informative and through the flow of the oil pressure and full indication on how the pressure trigger the firing by pushing the diesel in....thank you I need to tell you that I have a problem with my truck that will start and run on cold only on and when it reaches hot will shut and not start until it cools off . then it will start again I did change dummy plugs and standing pipes I did change ICP and IPR sensors I have good cranking but I dnt have a computer to check where is the problem do u think I need to buy one and that is the only way my truck is 2007 6.0 powerstroke
@yousukkar6497 best way to communicate is through Instagram. Most likely you have either a high pressure oil leak or failing pump or Ipr. First step is to get a cheap scan tool to look at some data. Here is a link to one amzn.to/3MthNxd Message me on Instagram and I'll try to help you out.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Hay thinks for responding I do have a ? This 6.0 that I have is a window lady that I do a lot of work for trying to help her out one shop had it charged her. A lot did not fix the truck will crank after awhile of cranking but will not take throttle it has a new IPR new thickem now to sad part I no nothing about these new diesel the old manual one I could from watching my dad (55year trucker) but willing to learn sorry bout short story would contact by air ways if could
I have a cold no start and a hot no start. It will fire with some diesel starting fluid, but I have to do it every-time! Replaced stand pipes and the right side inj seals. Right side nipple cups w/HRC and found a bad o-ring. Rane fine for about 8 months and started acting up again. Going to replace the left side cups and inj seals tomorrow depending on the weather. One weird thing is that my stereo,alarm and door locks stopped working?
Our 2005 6.0 has been bulletproofed and runs like a champ but it won’t start without starting fluid. You can drive it 500 miles and then shut it off at the gas station to refuel it and hit the key and she cranks like crazy but will never start. Give it a shot of starting fluid and she fires right up and drives fine. Temp outside makes no difference. Andy ideas???
Welp first off thank you for watching. First thing is first you got to figure out what is missing when she wont start. Is there at least 500 psi of high pressure oil when cranking. You could have a glow plug issue, glow plug module issue, fuel or high pressure oil. Given that fact that it wont start without starting fluid but starts with it may be a glow plug issue. If you can go to my instagram and send me a message and I can help you there. it is much easier. thank you.
Just got done doing a bullet proof egr and oil coolers white exhaust is gone but truck is missing, owner said it has always missed every now and then? Now it’s a no start? I’ve ran a lot of test but not believing my scanner on the ipr? Pulled the ipr screen is fairly dirty, picked up a screen kit, but wondering about testing the IPR? Is it true you can’t bench test it with 12V and hear it click. I e done a lot of crane hydraulic work and you can always hear and fill them click when testing them. Parts on this rig are all ready up to close 2000
Awesome video man!!! Great diag process with the tips and fix! Keep these kind of videos coming brother! Also another tip on those IPRs is that screen make sure it comes off with the sensor I have seen them multiple time stay inside the port and gotta fish em out before putting a new one!
I have a question what happens if when you pull it out the IPRs the screen is all broken do you just replace it or something else messed up when the screen broke
@macviperdgo no not at all. The 7.3 does operate with high pressure oil but it all runs through the head. On the inside portion of the head in the valley there is an oil rail in the head. Thank you for watching
Before starting with key, disconnect starter wire and crank it for about 10 seconds, about 3 times. THEN crank it with the key, that way it'll fill it up the system with oil before the real crank
I have a 03 6.0 I'm working on and when u drive it full throttle it calls for 3000 psi and all it has is like 730. And the it catches up slowly I was going to change the dummy plugs and stand pipes b4 I do a pump. And it it sits over night it will fire up and then stall. But then will crank and then fire up. But still have low psi. I put a new ipr in it already
I would air check it , could also be the orings at top of the injectors also. Stc fitting at high pressure pump also. If you don't have any leaks then it's the pump. Let know what u find.
I hv 06 I don't hear fuel pump running. Also hear weird knock in front of engine while cranking. New to 6.0 diag. Just turning key on hv alot of buzzing noise
First off thank you for watching the video. If you have no fuel then you can get what is called fuel knock. Hard to say that is what is going on. Do you have any codes? Do you have high pressure oil building? If you need more help please message me on Instagram and I can help you more.
Great video! I’m only about 12 minutes in, but, is testing for this air leak / lack of oil high pressure, this procedure where the valve covers need to come off, more difficult in an E-350 van with a doghouse engine cover inside the cab? I’m asking in comparison to the truck depicted in your video. Thanks.
Yes the van is harder to work on, but some things are easier, the oil rail is much more visible in a van. can get down closer to the engine. But an Econoline is much different to work on because of under the hood is in a shorter area. Thank you for watching.
My 2004 6.0 lost all fuel pressure, so I changed the pump, but now I can hear the new pump getting electric but now even after charging both batteries it won't start, it won't even spin the fly wheel. I'm lost!
Sorry for your trouble, if the flexplate is not turning then your starter is probably not working. If you message me on Instagram I can help you there it is easier. Thank you for watching.
Definitely going to be watching this video again. You Really broke it down and explained everything from scan data, to why your air testing. Great job Brotha. I did have one question though. When would you want to air test the High Pressure Oil Pump (IPR)? Is Air testing from the ICP doing the same as the IPR Or is there a specific reason why you’d want to Air test one or the other? Thanks 🍻😎🤙🔧
I've never air tested at ipr. Its a sealed oil system so testing at icp will let you see what is happening with oil system, remember the ICP is where the oil pressure is detected. On older style you have to take off passenger side valve cover and remove a plug in oil rail,
Unfortunately no it will not work for that. A normal smoke machine puts out about less then 5 pounds of air, and air compressor will put over 100. You need the higher air pressure. Smoke would not be beneficial even if you could got enough air pressure. Send me a message on instagram if you have anymore questions. Thank you for watching.
Great video was very refreshing to see this, they 2 guys I used to watch sermarastertech AKA Rusty bun & diesel techRon.. sady the are no longer with us hopefully the are in a better place Rip. Keep up the good content.
Very helpful and informative, this guy knows his powerstrokes. I am currently applying everything he discusses here on a 2007 International 4200 flatbed with the notorious VT 365 engine (glorified 6.0 powerstroke or worse than depending on who you ask) next up re-programming a J1939 datalink ecm to overlook egr inconsistencies because of a egr cooler delete. Any help or pointers? I have a snap-off prolink and N.E.D software available I just don't know how to use them apparently lol.
Well thank you very much, I appreciate that. Unfortunately I do not have any experience with modifying the software. Everything I do is completely legal as I have always worked in a shop that does not modify.
great video tone, im having the same issue on my 05 6.0, all my data looks good but im only getting 460psi, with a no start done the air test with covers off and can't seem to find a leak anywhere, any thoughts? thanks for the videos and the help
I have a 2006 6.0 f350 with crank no start The problem I came across is when I turn the key on engine off I don't get the injector clatter like it normally does before it starts. Anyone know why that might be?
Put a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the ficm relay under the hood on driver side. That'll bring the clatter back, it might have a shorted out wire somewhere.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely the BEST video on YT for this problem!..thanks for all the details that most dont have a clue..man, you covered everything and you knocked it outta the park! Great Job!
Thank you very much I appreciate that. Thank you for watching.
Hi Tone, thank you for great content.
I have 2006 6.0 diesel that has issue with:
A. not responding to the throttle accurately, delayed
B. not reaching full RPM range (1800 to 2000 MAX RPM) at full throttle (at neutral gear or when driving)
C. quits after 30 sec, 2,4 or 6 min. and/or unpredictable times, at idle or higher RPMs,
D. at idle scanner tool displays (ICP psi actual and IPR % ) graph that looks like two waves that constantly go up and down opposite of each other.
E. FICM at 48 Volt constantly
F. Base oil pressure test PASSED
G. Fuel filter bubble test PASSED
H. Fuel pressure test with the engine load test PASSED
Replaced (USING OEM PARTS)
1.all oil rail Orings and stand pipes, dummy plugs
2. Sensors: ICP, IPR, Exhaust back pressure, cam. & crank positioning,
3. FICM & ECM
Please let me know what would you do to fix this problem.
ua-cam.com/video/f1cxJT2paj8/v-deo.html
First thank you for watching and I really hope to be able to help you. Instagram is easier for me to message back and forth. Send me all this info on Instagram and we will go from there.
I watched this video from beginning to end. This was super informative. I just picked up a 2006 f250 6.0
It sat for 2 years I got it started and drove it from CA to AZ now I can’t get it to start and stay on.
I have an OBD reader coming in today with live data. Going to hook it up and check my pressures and voltages. Thank you for your hard work on the video.
@@RubenMartinez-d9z you are welcome. I have a newer updated video as well. Good luck
A real good video. This guy took the time to explain really well. One of the best videos on this engine I have seen. Thanks!
Hank
Thank you very much I really appreciate that. I have several other videos on the 6 liter. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone replaced icp vehicle runs fine at city speeds but once on the highway it eventually loses power sputters for a bit then when i come to a complete stop it dies.
@Chris Atkins that is a bummer, if you message me on Instagram I can try to help you it's much easier on there.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone cant find you on insta and your link doesnt work
@@NutsandBoltswithTone couldnt find you on insta..yohr link just takes me to homepage. SO 2003 f250 6.0 will idle fine and drivw at city speeds 35-45 mph no problem..once i hit the high way though it gwts up to 65/70 and the speedometer just goes down rpms stay the same until i let off pedal then thwy just drop and wont go back up vehicle will studder and sputter then die once i put it in park. also i had it idling for 2 hours today no issue. but once it dies it has to sit for 2-5 mins and then it will restart and sound normal then a few more miles at high speed it repeats the issue. but once i get back to town and lower speeds its perfectly normal. not dtc codes check engine light etc it also starts on a dime.
This video is an absolute gold mine of information. Thanks!
Well thank you very much I really appreciate it. I just uploaded a new video talking about lack of power on the 6.0 Powerstroke.
Awesome man! I’m in the middle of troubleshooting a no start on an 04 excursion right now. Wasn’t building icp. Waiting for a new ipr to come in but the visual you did with the air test and the tubes made me order the test kit and now ill do the air test as well. Not all hero’s wear capes! Thanks!
Thank you very much I appreciate that. If you have any questions hit me up on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithToneI've got a 06 6.0l crank no start new ipr valve new ficm still no star
@garymesser4733 that is a bummer sorry to hear that. Can you message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I don't have instagram
Thanks for this video. You explain the issues very well. I had a mechanic rebuild my engine last year, and it died 8 weeks later, and he didn't warranty his work. I ended rebuilding it myself with starting issues when hot. I replaced the nipple seals, downspout, dummy plugs and all the seals on the HPOP. I hope to start it tomorrow.
Sorry for your troubles and the mechanic not warrantying his work. That is no good. If you have any issues with this please feel free to message me on Instagram and I will help you out. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing this! I just got a non running 6.0 truck, and I am doing some preliminary research. Videos like yours make the learning process very enjoyable, thank you again
You are welcome and if you have any further questions feel free to message me on my Instagram. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks a lot! I'll follow you. Also, thank you for the tidbit on the 10 seconds of cranking. My batteries didn't let me go longer, but great info to know
@@flux_core_fx also check out dieseltechron and Fordtechmakuloco and automedic garage. TooManyToys is really the best though, but he doesn’t have diagnostic videos like this though, but you will learn more about the 6.0 from him than any other. He is a master.
I'm on a mission to tell everyone, the last thing you do before you take out the valve cover bolts is plug all openings and clean clean clean the entire area around and above the covers and of course the covers themselves. I watch all the 6.0 videos and see guys, time after time, risking some piece of grit or grime falling off the wiring or turbo or....It's not worth the risk, and makes visual inspection of everything not just easier and better, but flat meaningfully possible. Working with grit and grime all around the components is the way many amateurs wind up paying some grinning "professional" mechanic WAY too much to fix something the layman got right in general, but didn't notice that big chunk of crud fall off the hood into an opening to the oil channels while he was moving around the truck and bumped something loose while not watching/noticing. You cannot work on engines etc. in any vehicle while it is covered with crud, period. Cleaning very thoroughly makes auto repairs way more convenient, productive, dependable...and last but not least WAY less unpleasant. If you don't believe me, just give it a try once. At the machine shop I worked at nobody touched an engine until it had been steam cleaned. Hundreds of potentially expensive comebacks and future disgruntled customers were avoided because you could actually see quite clearly everything from leaks to broken wiring and components. If you think working on a nice clean engine isn't really that much less unpleasant, you haven't spent much time working on engines. A person who works on a dirty engine is giving themselves a big handicap in so many ways. And finally, dirt holds in engine heat and holds moisture and corrosive elements that degrade things like wiring etc. ..
I try my damndest to let every one know to spray all the dirt and dust away before opening up any engine component. I am sure I do not always give that advice as I am making my video while I am a flat rate tech. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone would you happened? to no the link for that special socket ?
I have a 60 it cranks a while but it starts runs real ruff and won't pull its self it will rev. Up I neutral
@@eugeneconger9439 water in the fuel..there are so many good videos on these symptoms. Dieseltechron, automedic garage, Fordtechmakuloco, you have to dig. Get an Autel analyzer that does cylinder contribution/misfire reading. Also, get a Scangauge II and monitor FICM voltage, ICP and oil and coolant temps. Most of the rough running at cold idle I’ve had was water in fuel/bad fuel, and dirty sticky injectors. Try Hotshots Secret. Works well for me. And drain your water trap.
@@coutryoutdoors3662it’s on Amazon.
Just watched your video about troubleshooting the HPO system on 6.0. I’m in the process of dealing with that on mine. I thought it was FICM related. New FICM with tune, new high amp alternator and new batteries…..still long crank start. Brought to my preferred garage today and when dropping it off, no start…..I bought the test tool which threads into the IPR from Accurate Diesel. I intend to leave it with the young lad who is my awesome Ford Dealer Diesel Tech.
Your video was fantastic. 100% spot on and we’ll done. Thanks for providing it.
Well thank you very much I appreciate that. Keep me posted on what it ends up being. Thank you for watching.
Good job explaining the theory of operation and repair.
Thank you brotha.
Earned yourself a subscription, excellent job on breaking down the 6.0. Keep it up!
Thank you very much I appreciate that. Thank you for watching as well
Thanks my guy most guys use clips but you nailed this tutorial. It helped a lot. Thank you.
Thank you very much I appreciate that. Thx for watching.
Thanks for giving us this info. very valuable. very well explained.
@@JoseMarquezCHEPT you are very welcome
Great video! I like the way you explain everything in detail and troubleshooting after fixing one thing.
Thank you for watching and the feedback I really appreciate it. Hit me up on Instagram if you have any questions.
Great video. The detail and clarity of info is awesome and much appreciated 👍
Thank you I appreciate that and thank you for watching.
Awesome video buddy… I definitely learned a lot more about my 6.0!
Sweet very happy to hear. Thank you for watching. If you need any help hit me up on Instagram
Thank you for diag steps more videos like this please
I will be for sure making more like this. Thank you for watching I appreciate it.
My favorite song playing in the background by chalino 😂👍🏼👍🏼 thanks for the info really helpful 👍🏼
Happy to help
There’s something oddly satisfying when torquing those type of injectors ...
Good video Tone, great information. 👍🏼
And crazy thing is some just don't torque them.
Gracias por este video, ahora se porque mi troca no enciende, que bueno que deja a mis paisanos escuchar música en español,
gracias por ver el video.
Thanks for the video Tone, you
would be a great diesel class
teacher!!!
Thank you that is very kind.
This is really great video. Very easy to follow along with as well as very informative. Thank you
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching.
Right on very educational thanks much. Looking to more updates.
Thank you very much. Thank you for watching.
Very good video, saved and would certainly recommend it but for anyone watching,, @24:52 that is the oil drain back tube inlet to the hpop cover not where the ipr sensor connects.
Thank you for watching and for the correction.
Nice work Man! I think I have this same issue going on! This video gives me the info and confidence to tackle it!
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching. If you have any questions message me on Instagram.
Very, very, well done 👏
Thank you and I appreciate you watching.
excellent video . i am currently working on an 06 cranks no start ,. now i know what my next step is . thanks
Well I'm glad you found my video. I appreciate ya watching. If you have any questions feel free to message me on Instagram.
My respects to you man! Thanks for that teaching.
You are very welcome. I appreciate you watching. Thank you
El corrido del cochilo con mi compa chalinoo en este viedo. Really good video by tue way
I thank you for watching and for the compliment. I do not speak spanish so I do not know what you said.
That's a great video. I really learned that. You did a good job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏
I am glad you enjoyed it and learned alot. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it
Great video good information and I like chalino Sanches in the back
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Really good explanation about, problem with 6.0 , nice video broo
I am very satisty with your demonstration ..good explanation.💪
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thx for watching.
Good video. I have a crank no start on my 05 6.0. In an emergency earlier i had to hit with small shot of either to start. Once she was running, she ran good. But at home, wont start. Stan pipes and dummy plugs are getting ordered
Sucks about your truck sorry to hear. Good luck with stand pipes dummy plugs. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help. Thanks for watching
The best information thank you
@@LucasMejia-i2b thank you, I'm happy it helped. I have an updated video on this as well
Great video, thank you so much!
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Thank you! Very Informative, I learned a lot in 40min
I'm very happy to hear thank you for watching
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Awesome video my 2004 is having a intermediate no crank then start. Im going to go through the process but believe it is the HPOP connection.
Thank you. During your testing if you have any questions please feel free to message me on Instagram for further help I don't mind.
Thank you very much for watching I appreciate it.
Awesome video, thank you sir 👍😁
Thank you very much and I appreciate you watching.
Very Informative and detailed- good teacher.
Thank you and I am glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching.
Thank you you are the clearest on what to check I have one now that I'm having trouble with I put a oil cooler and a new turbo on it and it ran once and it was blowing oil out of the exhaust so I thought I did something wrong then I couldn't get it to start so I removed the IPR and the screen was collapsed so I put a new one in and then it started and ran for about 10 minutes then died and I haven't got it to run after that it has become a nightmare for me I just made a presser fitting to put in the icp to check for leaks if there is anything else please help me with this thing
Thank you for the compliment on the video, sorry you are having trouble. If you message me on Instagram I can try to help you. Send me the vehicle info and we can go from there. Thanks for watching.
Very good vid. Helped a ton!
@@boblubke851 awesome happy to help
Man, I sort of miss working on 6.0's and 7.3's but I have to admit it was much easier access in internationals. Awesome video man!
I like working on 6.0'sas long as customer is peeped up front that there could be multiple issues.
Thanks Tom very informative video, I'm having a similar issues with 6.0L this will help.
Ok great, if you are still having an issue head on over to my instagram and you can send me a message there and I can try to help. It is Tone BTW. Thank you for watching.
Awsome video.
It really really helped me!!!!!
Thanks!!!!
You are very welcome I am happy to help. Thanks for watching.
That’s what makes the air test difficult, once the oil is out of the rail, the air leaks out pretty easy. Creates a lot of doubt, also once the truck is all back together, that long crank creates some worry too lol.
Well I find it to still work the same when air checking. The only thing that is difficult is yes the long crank when finished because all the oil has been purged out. Thank you for watching, if you have any questions hit me up.
You are the man, thank you boss. Awesome video, keep up the amazing work boss. Love, Peace, and fifth wheel grease brother 🤙🤙. Help me out alot.
You are very welcome. I appreciate you watching and I'm very happy to help you.
verry informative and through the flow of the oil pressure and full indication on how the pressure trigger the firing by pushing the diesel in....thank you I need to tell you that I have a problem with my truck that will start and run on cold only on and when it reaches hot will shut and not start until it cools off . then it will start again I did change dummy plugs and standing pipes I did change ICP and IPR sensors I have good cranking but I dnt have a computer to check where is the problem do u think I need to buy one and that is the only way my truck is 2007 6.0 powerstroke
@yousukkar6497 best way to communicate is through Instagram. Most likely you have either a high pressure oil leak or failing pump or Ipr. First step is to get a cheap scan tool to look at some data. Here is a link to one
amzn.to/3MthNxd
Message me on Instagram and I'll try to help you out.
In 25:07 the ipr is not where that hole is the ipr is on top of the Hpop that whole is for the return on the turbo.
Yeah I mispoke on that one. Sorry about that.
Great job, well explain
Thank you. I appreciate you watching
Thank you Tone for info, very informative
My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for this video man I learned a lot
Sweet man and thank you for watching. Hit me up if you have any questions.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Hay thinks for responding I do have a ? This 6.0 that I have is a window lady that I do a lot of work for trying to help her out one shop had it charged her. A lot did not fix the truck will crank after awhile of cranking but will not take throttle it has a new IPR new thickem now to sad part I no nothing about these new diesel the old manual one I could from watching my dad (55year trucker) but willing to learn sorry bout short story would contact by air ways if could
@@JOHNSMITH-cf7rd can u message me on Instagram and I'll help u it's easier
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yes sir
I have a cold no start and a hot no start. It will fire with some diesel starting fluid, but I have to do it every-time! Replaced stand pipes and the right side inj seals. Right side nipple cups w/HRC and found a bad o-ring. Rane fine for about 8 months and started acting up again. Going to replace the left side cups and inj seals tomorrow depending on the weather. One weird thing is that my stereo,alarm and door locks stopped working?
Oh wow that is weird. Hit me up after u replace those other seals
Very informative, good job.
Thank you very much. I appreciate your comment.
Thanks 🙏🏽 great video
Thank you I appreciate it and thank you for watching
bro awesome work thanks
Thank you
Our 2005 6.0 has been bulletproofed and runs like a champ but it won’t start without starting fluid. You can drive it 500 miles and then shut it off at the gas station to refuel it and hit the key and she cranks like crazy but will never start. Give it a shot of starting fluid and she fires right up and drives fine. Temp outside makes no difference. Andy ideas???
Welp first off thank you for watching. First thing is first you got to figure out what is missing when she wont start. Is there at least 500 psi of high pressure oil when cranking. You could have a glow plug issue, glow plug module issue, fuel or high pressure oil. Given that fact that it wont start without starting fluid but starts with it may be a glow plug issue. If you can go to my instagram and send me a message and I can help you there. it is much easier. thank you.
Thanks very much nice
You are very welcome. Message me on Instagram if you have any questions. Thanks for watching
Just got done doing a bullet proof egr and oil coolers white exhaust is gone but truck is missing, owner said it has always missed every now and then? Now it’s a no start? I’ve ran a lot of test but not believing my scanner on the ipr? Pulled the ipr screen is fairly dirty, picked up a screen kit, but wondering about testing the IPR? Is it true you can’t bench test it with 12V and hear it click. I e done a lot of crane hydraulic work and you can always hear and fill them click when testing them. Parts on this rig are all ready up to close 2000
Hey man sorry to hear about your troubles. Bench testing an ipr is pointless. Message me on Instagram I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching
Awesome video man!!! Great diag process with the tips and fix! Keep these kind of videos coming brother! Also another tip on those IPRs is that screen make sure it comes off with the sensor I have seen them multiple time stay inside the port and gotta fish em out before putting a new one!
Oh yeah for sure. Thank you. Are you talking about the IPR SCREEN?
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yeah idk why I put iCP
@@Itsdazeni very true the screen is important
I have a question what happens if when you pull it out the IPRs the screen is all broken do you just replace it or something else messed up when the screen broke
What do you mean that the whole sistem has to come apart if you see metal in the minute 11:34
Perfect video 👍
Thank you, I appreciate it thank you for watching.
Great video!
Does the older 7.3 have the stand pipe’s & similar system?
@macviperdgo no not at all. The 7.3 does operate with high pressure oil but it all runs through the head. On the inside portion of the head in the valley there is an oil rail in the head. Thank you for watching
Great info
I am happy you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great video!
Point blank!!!!!
Thank you, hit me up on Instagram if you have any questions. Thanks for watching
Possible causes of no start (low ICP PSI ) only when hot? Builds icp psi when cold, runs fine but wont restart hot . Thanks For vid
Well there are a lot of things. If you message me on my Instagram I can try to help u out. Thanks for watching
good teacher
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Great Tech!!
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching.
Man that's a lot of work
How much?
For what? Message me on Instagram
Yes it is. About to film an updated version on this process.
Before starting with key, disconnect starter wire and crank it for about 10 seconds, about 3 times. THEN crank it with the key, that way it'll fill it up the system with oil before the real crank
That's a good tip thank you for watching.
What about the 2004 one's looks like &&& the one's to replace with 🤔💬
I appreciate you watching, but I am unclear what you are asking me. You can message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out.
You GREAT MASTER ON DIESEL THANKS
Happy to help. Thank you for watching
good video dude, very thorough!!!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching and the feedback.
Great video.
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching and the comment.
I have a 03 6.0 I'm working on and when u drive it full throttle it calls for 3000 psi and all it has is like 730. And the it catches up slowly I was going to change the dummy plugs and stand pipes b4 I do a pump. And it it sits over night it will fire up and then stall. But then will crank and then fire up. But still have low psi. I put a new ipr in it already
I would air check it , could also be the orings at top of the injectors also. Stc fitting at high pressure pump also. If you don't have any leaks then it's the pump. Let know what u find.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I will check it it had head gaskets a few years ago
I hv 06 I don't hear fuel pump running. Also hear weird knock in front of engine while cranking. New to 6.0 diag. Just turning key on hv alot of buzzing noise
First off thank you for watching the video. If you have no fuel then you can get what is called fuel knock. Hard to say that is what is going on. Do you have any codes? Do you have high pressure oil building? If you need more help please message me on Instagram and I can help you more.
great video!!
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Great video,thank you!
Can you say about what mileage you see this issue happening on the 6.0’s?
Not really it is random and also how well the maintenance has been done. Thanks for watching
👍 great video!
Thank you I appreciate it. Thx for watching
Great video! I’m only about 12 minutes in, but, is testing for this air leak / lack of oil high pressure, this procedure where the valve covers need to come off, more difficult in an E-350 van with a doghouse engine cover inside the cab? I’m asking in comparison to the truck depicted in your video. Thanks.
Yes the van is harder to work on, but some things are easier, the oil rail is much more visible in a van. can get down closer to the engine. But an Econoline is much different to work on because of under the hood is in a shorter area. Thank you for watching.
you now if the FICM need programing if is replaced on 6.6 duramax gmc 2003 thanks in advance
I am unsure, I've never replaced one. My guess is yes it does. Wherever you are going to buy it from should be able to tell you.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I have a 6.0 no start how can u help
Ur great 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Thank you very much, hit me up on Instagram if you need anymore help. Thanks for watching.
haha shouldve pulled that sticker off too lol right on awesome vid helps me out thanks alot buddy well explained
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
About to get one it smokes white will run all day till you shut it off then you gotta wait 1-2 hours before it’ll fire back up
Oh damn. good luck with that one. Hit me up on Instagram if you need any help. Thanks for watching.
I found that priming the oilrails makes faster starting
That is a great tip thank you.
My 2004 6.0 lost all fuel pressure, so I changed the pump, but now I can hear the new pump getting electric but now even after charging both batteries it won't start, it won't even spin the fly wheel.
I'm lost!
Sorry for your trouble, if the flexplate is not turning then your starter is probably not working. If you message me on Instagram I can help you there it is easier. Thank you for watching.
Will overheating the engine cause any of these issues. My father borrowed my 03 and had it towed back after overheating. Any advice is welcomed
Well that is a very complex question. Please message me on my Instagram and I'll be happy to help you.
Good Job Sr
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching.
but how much air should you put in the system??
As much as you can. The system operates on minimum of 500psi. So just hook up so air to it. Thanks for watching. Let me know if you have any questions
Definitely going to be watching this video again. You Really broke it down and explained everything from scan data, to why your air testing. Great job Brotha. I did have one question though. When would you want to air test the High Pressure Oil Pump (IPR)? Is Air testing from the ICP doing the same as the IPR Or is there a specific reason why you’d want to Air test one or the other? Thanks 🍻😎🤙🔧
I've never air tested at ipr. Its a sealed oil system so testing at icp will let you see what is happening with oil system, remember the ICP is where the oil pressure is detected. On older style you have to take off passenger side valve cover and remove a plug in oil rail,
What causes it to do that
I would like to get you fix my truck He got the same problem
Bring it to the shop, I will get it fixed up for sure.
Can using smoke leak tester, give same results to find the leak, or what?
Unfortunately no it will not work for that. A normal smoke machine puts out about less then 5 pounds of air, and air compressor will put over 100. You need the higher air pressure. Smoke would not be beneficial even if you could got enough air pressure. Send me a message on instagram if you have anymore questions. Thank you for watching.
Great video was very refreshing to see this, they 2 guys I used to watch sermarastertech AKA Rusty bun & diesel techRon.. sady the are no longer with us hopefully the are in a better place Rip. Keep up the good content.
Omg me to. Did Srmastertech pass away? If so I did not know. I learned allot from diesel tech ton.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone unfortunately he did, it was some time ago now. Due to ungoing battle with cancer. To great ford techs in my opinion..
@@niallcosgrove5596 damn that's unfortunate. Did you ever watch Joe Diesel? I watched a video where he went and met Srmastertech
@@NutsandBoltswithTone
Yes I sure have.. and I've also seen that very same video..
@@niallcosgrove5596 bummer that Joe doesn't make videos anymore for diesels
Coworker at an old place did injectors on a 6.4 and it hydro locked
That sucks, At least the glow plugs are external so you could hopefully get the cylinders clear through the glow plug holes. Thank you for watching.
Very helpful and informative, this guy knows his powerstrokes. I am currently applying everything he discusses here on a 2007 International 4200 flatbed with the notorious VT 365 engine (glorified 6.0 powerstroke or worse than depending on who you ask) next up re-programming a J1939 datalink ecm to overlook egr inconsistencies because of a egr cooler delete. Any help or pointers? I have a snap-off prolink and N.E.D software available I just don't know how to use them apparently lol.
Well thank you very much, I appreciate that. Unfortunately I do not have any experience with modifying the software. Everything I do is completely legal as I have always worked in a shop that does not modify.
great video tone, im having the same issue on my 05 6.0, all my data looks good but im only getting 460psi, with a no start done the air test with covers off and can't seem to find a leak anywhere, any thoughts? thanks for the videos and the help
Is it a complete no start? Are you closing the ipr?
It's your HPOP
I have a 2006 6.0 f350 with crank no start
The problem I came across is when I turn the key on engine off I don't get the injector clatter like it normally does before it starts.
Anyone know why that might be?
You could have a problem. You would need to scan for codes. thank you for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if you have any further questions,
Put a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the ficm relay under the hood on driver side. That'll bring the clatter back, it might have a shorted out wire somewhere.
I just had that work done on my ford 6.0and it keeps blowing the oil seal…it was done 3 different times and only last for about 300 miles
Wow, what seal is blowing out? Hit me up on Instagram and I'll help you out. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone it happens to be the high oil pressure for the fuel injectors on both sides