Until I see what he does, maybe we should all look like we just woke up. I do tons of stuff but I see this guy do projects and feel like a complete novice.
Here in Atibaia cudade interiorana of the State of São Paulo in Brazil, I do not lose a video of you. You're the best of them all. This one I copied and mounted my wood lathe, Thanks for sharing your videos, A hug.
mathias sos un genio la verdad no se me ocurre nada que no puedas hacer no tenes límites con la madera..estoy totalmente agradecido por todo lo que enseñas en tu canal..muchísimas gracias
Matthias, what about a locknut, washer and a light-duty spring to keep the chuck jaws pressed to the center or outside of the chuck (depending on where you would mount the jaw itself in the assembly) ? would reduce risk of it not retaining the parts.
Mr. Wandel: I went from binge-watching garbage on Netflix to binge-watching your videos. I am so impressed with your work. It's so refreshing to actually watch something from which I can learn practical lessons -- and not just about woodworking, but about problem solving and out-of-the-box thinking. Keep up the excellent work; I look forward to many more hours of enlightenment! Cheers from Michigan!
That is a nice chuck but the simplicity is Guinness. The way you made the face plate and chuck on the same shaft is neat. This lathe has a different vibe than your other shop tools though. Nothing bad about it but its built in a different fashion than we have seen in your other builds. Thank you for passing along your tallents.
Matthias You could always add a lock ring around the threaded rods, bolts and jaws. Cut a ring from 1/2" plywood that covers the bolts, cut dovetail pins on the inside of the ring. Then cut blind tails into the chuck, equidistant between the jaws . Slide the ring on from the back once the stock is locked in place, then secure with a couple of wood screws through the pins and blind part of the tail.
hey matthias, I don't want to badger you about this but I think you can produce some really fine work while still using safe and proper equipment if you bought a couple of turning tools. Frankly, all you need in my opinion is a bowl gouge and a parting tool. You can buy these tools for stupid cheap from a lot of places (penn state industries, amazon, eBay) Cool chuck! Im excited to see how it works on that bowl! Take it easy, Pete
I did a somewhat similar setup at one point using the stock face plate that came with my lathe and built wooden slides out of scrap red oak for the clamps (I figured the hard wood would be strong enough to hold up with less material, and it was), and used machine screws and washers to screw them down to the face plate. To keep it safe I simply used two nuts on each screw to lock it down. It worked for the piece I needed it to, which was a wand I made out of 1" square stock, but I find the diameter to be too small for bowls given that it is limited by the size of the smallest set of screw holes in the stock face plate. I like this design in that it allows for more use of the available surface area. I think I might make one to use on my lathe, but since I have an existing set up I'll just drill holes to line up with my existing face plate and countersink them for longer machine screws, using the double nut technique again for safety. I'll probably again use either hard wood or possibly metal for my jaws just so I can get a strong piece with less material; I think if you cut a section of pipe to size with an angle grinder, that would give a consistent round to the jaws with about a sixth of the thickness to the material (and thus that much more diameter to work with). I could of course buy a lathe chuck, but they're a bit pricey and my current lathe isn't exactly a high-end machine that I'll want to make that kind of investment on.
Brilliant idea as far as design is concerned. Congratulations. I would suggest two thin gauge steel discs screwed on either side, shaped as required, plus a central steel bush with four threads to take the jaw adjusting screws and a hole for the locking pin would make this brilliant design much safer.
I've never been jealous of someone's ability to make things from scratch until I found your channel. I wish I had the intelligence (and patience) you do! I love you videos! Keep them up!
I purchased the plans yesterday, and WOW are they nice. I am so looking forward to this build . Only problem is I don't read metric well. That maybe something on your plans that could be added on later.
avalonbear, get a cheap calculator and store 25.4 in the memory. Divide millimetres by 25.4 to get inches. Fractions of inches you'll have to figure out yourself, or get decimal and get used to metricity :)
Wow!! Great video..Thanks so much for sharing..These videos are awesome!! I have no idea what your making most of the time but honestly, who cares. Lol. It's so much fun watching you make all this really cool stuff. I think my favorite part of all your videos is watching you make your own little tools to get the job done. Amazing!! I really do enjoy that most.. Thanks again for sharing & keep the videos coming.. :))
You can take a large ring clamp and strap it over the edge of that chuck and tighten it down to prevent any bolts flying out in case one wanted to slip.
hello metthias, have you ever experienced over heating or burning on the wooden bearings? i know your using oil on them, but im concerned they still might overheat from the friction.
I would recommend for the safety issue; use nylock nut's to prevent them from backing out. A nylock nut will however need to be replace on occasion after many cycles on and off. I imagine the first set will last about as long as the lathe bearings. (nylock nut) Captive plastic ring one end of the nut.
Hmmmm...have you considered updateing the shaft to one that would be used with a Nova G3 ? The nice thing about that concept is that if you updated to a beefier lathe...the Nova would be easily reuseable
One little tip for you. Use curd soap as a lubricant in your bearings, oil lets the wood swell up and it starts to rott eventually. Curd soap is a better lubricant aswell.
+Matthias Wandel Wow, you have no idea. Just give the curd soap a try and you will crawl back to me on your knees for beeing so ignorant. Carpenters use that stuff to lubricate wooden drawers and stuff like that for hundreds of years. And oil WILL mess up your lathe, vegetable oil goes bad after a while and mineral oil does nasty things to wood and plywood too.
I wished you lived close. I have an antique verticle Bridgeport milling machine that you could use to be able to get precisely in the middle of those holes. It would just be much easier to do the tight tolerances for drilling or milling keyways and that mind of work that you do when building the Kool shop tools that you show us. This antique is bigger than a table top model but not as big as a modern vertical Bridgeport. Tho you could probably buy a mill that is close to home cheaper than shipping this one.
I've been keeping up with your channel for a couple of months, watched every video. I'm into wood turning myself so when I saw you were making a "series" on a wooden lathe I was so excited. I've always wondered if it was possible to make a jaw chuck out of wood, now you've proven it. Now, you have to show me you can make a drill press.
I don't think there's too much chance of the bolts coming out. If anything they might be prone to slowly unscrewing themselves slowly over time, so you'd just need to check them every so often. I think that as long as you're turning smallish stock with this, it should be fine.
Gotta admit I had my doubts on whether a DIY lathe chuck would be any good. Every design I toyed around with in my head had shrapnel potential. I have an ancient Dunlap 9" lathe with a solid bar instead of a threaded axle. I've got a spur bit, but nobody sells a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck. I'll probably try your method. Thanks.
It's funny to hear you say that you were procrastinating on doing something - watching your videos for so long and it's never once seemed like a task was intimidating enough to make you procrastinate haha
On making the chuck. Instead of screwing 4 individual bits of threaded rod in from the top, How about inserting some type of machine screw/carriage bolt from the inside out. That way the head would have to pull all the way through the wood instead of just the threads in the wood letting go. Getting a hole in the face-plate large enough is not likely, so how about, two low height jam nuts and red Loctite ?
You might want to use hex nylon insert lock nuts to help prevent parts from flying off. Also, a threaded insert for the bolt to screw into with permanent lock tight to hold it in place.
hello Matthias, your the only one on youtube ive seen using wood as your bearing blocks. everyone else uses mounted bearing blocks of one shape or another. how well do the wooden bearings hold up? im assuming your using the hardest wood you could find. and lubricating them frequently. have you ever experience a bearing failure? do you have problems with foreign matter, (wood dust etc..), getting inside the bearing and damaging it? a i really like the concept, especially for the DIY'er who may not have easy access to bearing blocks, so any comments on the subject would be greatly appreciated. thanks as always
hello my friend matthias wandel I'm an admirer of your projects I live in Brazil and I try to copy your work because I think it's very interesting that it's a shame that I do not speak your language and your video is in English + anyway I do not stop sharing hugs
Nice video, the precision and skill to make it is impressive. Only concern for me is the effort to make all this becomes lost when you've used the lathe a lot and all the bearings are oval and worn out. Wood is not the best bearing material,
spade blades or flat bit are always in inches hard to find it in milimiters and theres no equivalencies between mill and inches you can find a 1inch bit but usually steel rods are 25mm and theres 0,4mm gap 5:27 could have used epoxi glue with the screw then you can unbolt it and use as a nut or could squeze a nut in there with epoxi or wood glue
I know it would be really annoying to tighten down, but wouldn't using nylock nuts (or any kind of locknut) to lock the jaws in place make it much safer? In my experience, which I admit is rather limited, nylock nuts don't vibrate free even from rather violent shaking
Neat build! To make the usage a bit safer, how about buying a long drill bit and drill the holes for the threaded rod straight through? Thats for the jaws 1+3 and 2+4, they have to be a bit off from each other. Then the force from clamping will be through a solid piece of rod for each pair=> the risk of getting hurt decreases and clamping force and confidence increases! This chuck model must be 3 times easier to build compared to the "Longworth chuck" + adjustable for 0 run out! //H
I know that you already have a lathe and very rarely saw a use for it, but has building one caused you to want to find uses for it? In any case, I'm really enjoying this series of videos, keep up the great work!
+Jason Patterson Yes, I do keep looking for uses. That's the problem with lathes. You have to find uses for it, because it doesn't have many uses on it's own.
I never understood how one could center a piece exactly on these chuck where every one of the four adjusmetn escrews is operated indiviually. I guess it doesn't matter when you start witht a completely raw piece of wood but if the piece is alreadz round and you need to machine it a bit further, how do you center it without a milllion trial and error adjustments? but I'm always impressed at what you come up with.
thanks I'm probably a bit anal about this since I see my self as so unskilled, that I feel I have to rely on precise machinery to align, square and center things for me. cheers
Cliff Hartle I have a few. I do not have a metal lathe though, so I do not use one to center work there. There's two kinds, the push rod, and the lever arm.
To make the chuck safer, I guess you want longer threaded rod, and then glue a ring around the outside of the chuck such that the threaded rods are captured by this new ring. Then the jaws will be totally captured. Would make messing with the nuts a bit of a challenge though...
If you are worried about the nuts flying off just make a removable metal guard to cover the chuck whilst in use. NB. if the nuts come loose you're likely to realise it a long time before they "fly off" (Ouut), the job will get a "mite" eccentric first.
If the Auto industry adopted the easy to remake approach, we would still be rolling around in Flintstone cars and wearing out shoes. Bearings are an integral part of engineered construction and provide longevity and competence. Raising the QA in your build might yield rewards.
Why not use locknuts or double nut it? I think the nylon lock nuts would work very well here to ensure the fingers don't fly off. Thanks for the videos Matthias!
+Matthias Wandel You do amaze me.I would be a little afraid of vibration working a nut loose.The nylock is going to work your glued bolts more though.....
I understand this.I also understand the pain of a face full of wood.I think the honest reason is that they would probably work the thread stock out of the chuck.This man amazes me but i think he is bat shit crazy trying this.lol
If you made the screws longer you could put on two nuts making it more secure atleast against vibration. And if you are realy into security may drill a series of holes in the rode and use a locking spring most closly.
Mr Maeehias Wandel, I really love your work. Speed and accuracy, you work with are really the best. I am too carpenter by birth but I spend my life as nuclear scientist in India. I really appreciate your skill. I would like to work with wood as craft man. Thanks you lot.
Buenos dias don Mathias mi nombre es humberto garzon, soy de colombia y recido en bogota D.C, me gustan sus videos soy ebanista, fabrico muebles de hogar, oficina, estoy sus ideas para nuestra facilidad de labores, me gustaria que sus videos se pudieran publicar al español con subtitulos ya que no se nada de ingles en el gremio mio somos muchos ebanistas o carpinteros que nos gustan sus ideas de antemano le agradezco cualquier colaboración gracias
I love it! Way to think outside of the box. You amaze me often. I just watched all four lathe videos and am all set to make my own. In fact, I need the lathe to make the parts for the marble machine that I just purchased. Your videos now are much better than they were a couple of years ago. Good job!
I love how he always looks like he just woke up. Makes me feel better about my day.
Cool design Matt.
Until I see what he does, maybe we should all look like we just woke up. I do tons of stuff but I see this guy do projects and feel like a complete novice.
Matthias you truly have a magical mind, it must never rest
Mechanical. Not magical. When he can teleport his physical body we can go further
Your build projects are a never ending surprise package for me
What's up Wayne?
Here in Atibaia cudade interiorana of the State of São Paulo in Brazil, I do not lose a video of you. You're the best of them all. This one I copied and mounted my wood lathe, Thanks for sharing your videos, A hug.
This guy is the Bob Ross of woodworking. I have no idea how the guy does it but it looks hella tight
朮雅
Just miss the tree in front of every jig ;-)
@@basgoossen w ww efxentrischser eiereierbecher w w w
This has been a great engineering series. It's amazing to me what you've made.
somebody give this man a medal. Your wood working skills is A+
Actually in Canada the grade system is in percent so 100%
you know what I mean! :)
+the boss chef we use letter grades...
+Saient do you kiss your mom and wife with that mouth?
Vergel Velasquez Yes.
Nice job sir ! 👍😉... Said from an old mechanic.
And I did appreciate your way to save plywood !
Typical Matthias, pure genius as usual! Figure things out as you proceed & change gears in order to make it work. Gotta love it.............Steve
mathias sos un genio la verdad no se me ocurre nada que no puedas hacer no tenes límites con la madera..estoy totalmente agradecido por todo lo que enseñas en tu canal..muchísimas gracias
Matthias, what about a locknut, washer and a light-duty spring to keep the chuck jaws pressed to the center or outside of the chuck (depending on where you would mount the jaw itself in the assembly) ? would reduce risk of it not retaining the parts.
Mr. Wandel: I went from binge-watching garbage on Netflix to binge-watching your videos. I am so impressed with your work. It's so refreshing to actually watch something from which I can learn practical lessons -- and not just about woodworking, but about problem solving and out-of-the-box thinking. Keep up the excellent work; I look forward to many more hours of enlightenment! Cheers from Michigan!
The minimalist in me loves how you build just what's needed and nothing more.
That is a nice chuck but the simplicity is Guinness. The way you made the face plate and chuck on the same shaft is neat. This lathe has a different vibe than your other shop tools though. Nothing bad about it but its built in a different fashion than we have seen in your other builds. Thank you for passing along your tallents.
Matthias You could always add a lock ring around the threaded rods, bolts and jaws.
Cut a ring from 1/2" plywood that covers the bolts, cut dovetail pins on the inside of the ring. Then cut blind tails into the chuck, equidistant between the jaws . Slide the ring on from the back once the stock is locked in place, then secure with a couple of wood screws through the pins and blind part of the tail.
hey matthias, I don't want to badger you about this but I think you can produce some really fine work while still using safe and proper equipment if you bought a couple of turning tools. Frankly, all you need in my opinion is a bowl gouge and a parting tool. You can buy these tools for stupid cheap from a lot of places (penn state industries, amazon, eBay)
Cool chuck! Im excited to see how it works on that bowl!
Take it easy,
Pete
Matthias super urađena majstorija ,svaka čast bez komentara bravo.
Seriously Matthias, you're the biggest inspiration I have for being creative. Thank you for another great video!
I did a somewhat similar setup at one point using the stock face plate that came with my lathe and built wooden slides out of scrap red oak for the clamps (I figured the hard wood would be strong enough to hold up with less material, and it was), and used machine screws and washers to screw them down to the face plate. To keep it safe I simply used two nuts on each screw to lock it down. It worked for the piece I needed it to, which was a wand I made out of 1" square stock, but I find the diameter to be too small for bowls given that it is limited by the size of the smallest set of screw holes in the stock face plate.
I like this design in that it allows for more use of the available surface area. I think I might make one to use on my lathe, but since I have an existing set up I'll just drill holes to line up with my existing face plate and countersink them for longer machine screws, using the double nut technique again for safety. I'll probably again use either hard wood or possibly metal for my jaws just so I can get a strong piece with less material; I think if you cut a section of pipe to size with an angle grinder, that would give a consistent round to the jaws with about a sixth of the thickness to the material (and thus that much more diameter to work with).
I could of course buy a lathe chuck, but they're a bit pricey and my current lathe isn't exactly a high-end machine that I'll want to make that kind of investment on.
I wont do those things you do ever, but it is a work of art to see you work on your artistic skills.
Brilliant idea as far as design is concerned. Congratulations. I would suggest two thin gauge steel discs screwed on either side, shaped as required, plus a central steel bush with four threads to take the jaw adjusting screws and a hole for the locking pin would make this brilliant design much safer.
One should always celebrate the making of a 4-jaw chuck with a glass of Two Buck Chuck . . .
I've never been jealous of someone's ability to make things from scratch until I found your channel. I wish I had the intelligence (and patience) you do! I love you videos! Keep them up!
I purchased the plans yesterday, and WOW are they nice. I am so looking forward to this build . Only problem is I don't read metric well. That maybe something on your plans that could be added on later.
+avalonbear61 See section in plans "why the plans are in metric". Fractional units are not not practical for machine designs.
avalonbear, get a cheap calculator and store 25.4 in the memory.
Divide millimetres by 25.4 to get inches.
Fractions of inches you'll have to figure out yourself, or get decimal and get used to metricity :)
Wow!! Great video..Thanks so much for sharing..These videos are awesome!! I have no idea what your making most of the time but honestly, who cares. Lol. It's so much fun watching you make all this really cool stuff. I think my favorite part of all your videos is watching you make your own little tools to get the job done. Amazing!! I really do enjoy that most.. Thanks again for sharing & keep the videos coming.. :))
Nice work, You should use a large, heavy duty rubberband or inner tubing around the chuck to keep any loose bolt to flight across the room!
*Man I tell you this guy got SOME SKILLZ*
You can take a large ring clamp and strap it over the edge of that chuck and tighten it down to prevent any bolts flying out in case one wanted to slip.
hello metthias,
have you ever experienced over heating or burning on the wooden bearings?
i know your using oil on them, but im concerned they still might overheat from the friction.
that chan happen, yes. Hasn't happened to me.
Cały cykl filmów o budowie tokarki jest super. To pokazuje, że jak się chce, to można wszystko :D
I am really enjoying this series of videos. You make this seem so much less intimidating than I thought it would be. Thank you so much
I'm not at all surprised that it worked.
Nicely done!
You might be able to put a hose clamp around the circumference of the chuck so that if one of the jaws does come loose it'll be stopped by the clamp ?
I would recommend for the safety issue; use nylock nut's to prevent them from backing out. A nylock nut will however need to be replace on occasion after many cycles on and off. I imagine the first set will last about as long as the lathe bearings. (nylock nut) Captive plastic ring one end of the nut.
I don't know why you had doubt, you made it right , nice
Hmmmm...have you considered updateing the shaft to one that would be used with a Nova G3 ? The nice thing about that concept is that if you updated to a beefier lathe...the Nova would be easily reuseable
One little tip for you. Use curd soap as a lubricant in your bearings, oil lets the wood swell up and it starts to rott eventually. Curd soap is a better lubricant aswell.
+Cofay Mc und Cs:go That's some really bad advice. And oil prevents rot.
+Cofay Mc und Cs:go BTFO
+Matthias Wandel Wow,
you have no idea. Just give the curd soap a try and you will crawl back
to me on your knees for beeing so ignorant. Carpenters use that stuff
to lubricate wooden drawers and stuff like that for hundreds of years.
And oil WILL mess up your lathe, vegetable oil goes bad after a while
and mineral oil does nasty things to wood and plywood too.
Cofay Mc und Cs:go master mathhias knows what he's doing
+Cofay Mc und Cs:go you're teaching a fish how to swim.
Well put the bearings are normal! A smart guy like that, and you do stuff...
but the real question is: how many wood chunks would a wooden wood Chuck Chuck?
Fantastic. Use lock nuts with a plastic top or a spring washer to decrease the risk of them loosening while turning.
There could be a wooden guard around the nuts so they wouldn't fly out if they became loose? Or Nyloc nuts could also be an option.
Ah the teaser at the end. Great job on the build.
William Hayden 9
William Hayden Ftu
F
I wished you lived close. I have an antique verticle Bridgeport milling machine that you could use to be able to get precisely in the middle of those holes. It would just be much easier to do the tight tolerances for drilling or milling keyways and that mind of work that you do when building the Kool shop tools that you show us. This antique is bigger than a table top model but not as big as a modern vertical Bridgeport. Tho you could probably buy a mill that is close to home cheaper than shipping this one.
I've been keeping up with your channel for a couple of months, watched every video. I'm into wood turning myself so when I saw you were making a "series" on a wooden lathe I was so excited. I've always wondered if it was possible to make a jaw chuck out of wood, now you've proven it. Now, you have to show me you can make a drill press.
Great chuck design. Easy enough
Have you ever considered building a Longworth style Chuck? I think it’s more up your alley for style and logistics. Just a thought.
you could put a large hose clamp around the chuck to act as a safeguard to prevent the fingers from flying off if they or the bolt fails
I don't think there's too much chance of the bolts coming out. If anything they might be prone to slowly unscrewing themselves slowly over time, so you'd just need to check them every so often. I think that as long as you're turning smallish stock with this, it should be fine.
Gotta admit I had my doubts on whether a DIY lathe chuck would be any good. Every design I toyed around with in my head had shrapnel potential.
I have an ancient Dunlap 9" lathe with a solid bar instead of a threaded axle. I've got a spur bit, but nobody sells a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck. I'll probably try your method. Thanks.
Does your mind ever rest? I am always amazed at what the human brain can do! ...and you sir are amazing!
I have really enjoyed your lathe build videos. Good job Matthias.
Uii>Imu
Mantaaaap
matthias you are a genius
8:55........"and I'm actually surprised that it worked" I wasn't surprised. Nice job.
Perhaps a large worm gear hose clamp could go around the chuck as a safety measure, in case the feet or bolts wiggle loose.
You make it look so easy.
Made the lathe but found that the interchangeable headstocks cumbersome. So made the headstock holder changeable, much easier
Good point. I actually have two headstock holders too - first one used wood screws, the second one anchor bolts.
It's funny to hear you say that you were procrastinating on doing something - watching your videos for so long and it's never once seemed like a task was intimidating enough to make you procrastinate haha
Nice build . What about using lock nuts on the jaws? Epoxy on the threaded rods.
On making the chuck.
Instead of screwing 4 individual bits of threaded rod in from the top,
How about inserting some type of machine screw/carriage bolt from the inside out.
That way the head would have to pull all the way through the wood instead of just the threads in the wood letting go.
Getting a hole in the face-plate large enough is not likely, so how about, two low height jam nuts and red Loctite ?
the thing to do is find a large rubber band to put around the outer edge to slow down any wayward parts if it does collapse.
I like and appreciate all of your videos. I am mainly a woodturner, and so this latest series on the lathe is particularly awesome! Great work.
You might want to use hex nylon insert lock nuts to help prevent parts from flying off. Also, a threaded insert for the bolt to screw into with permanent lock tight to hold it in place.
Tape, elastic band or knotted band around the chuck will secure the nut and jaws.
+Helge Frisenette or maybe nylon locknuts
Incredible. FYI Matthias you have some white foamy stuff outside your windows in the last frames.
hello Matthias,
your the only one on youtube ive seen using wood as your bearing blocks. everyone else uses mounted bearing blocks of one shape or another.
how well do the wooden bearings hold up? im assuming your using the hardest wood you could find. and lubricating them frequently. have you ever experience a bearing failure? do you have problems with foreign matter, (wood dust etc..), getting inside the bearing and damaging it? a
i really like the concept, especially for the DIY'er who may not have easy access to bearing blocks, so any comments on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
thanks as always
You might consider locktite to prevent the nuts 🔩 from coming loose. Really great 👍 vid!
Awesome! That's a beautiful chuck, can't wait to watch it in action on that bowl!
พอนิ้เจิ้อ กด
i like its good
awesome
Ever been tempted to try making a scroll chuck Matthias? Think it could be within your ample ability!
What about drilling and pinning the threaded rod to ensure that it won't pull out of the wooden chuck?
Wow! Best wood home made chuck I seen anybody make so far. Real good stuff man.
hello my friend matthias wandel I'm an admirer of your projects I live in Brazil and I try to copy your work because I think it's very interesting that it's a shame that I do not speak your language and your video is in English + anyway I do not stop sharing hugs
Have enjoyed this entire build. Looking forward to more.
Cool, please make a pepper grinder. Try coating the jaws in silicone or put small rubber bands over them for grip and longevity.
Nice video, the precision and skill to make it is impressive. Only concern for me is the effort to make all this becomes lost when you've used the lathe a lot and all the bearings are oval and worn out. Wood is not the best bearing material,
Easy enough to make new ones
spade blades or flat bit are always in inches hard to find it in milimiters
and theres no equivalencies between mill and inches you can find a 1inch bit but usually steel rods are 25mm and theres 0,4mm gap
5:27 could have used epoxi glue with the screw then you can unbolt it and use as a nut
or could squeze a nut in there with epoxi or wood glue
I know it would be really annoying to tighten down, but wouldn't using nylock nuts (or any kind of locknut) to lock the jaws in place make it much safer? In my experience, which I admit is rather limited, nylock nuts don't vibrate free even from rather violent shaking
Neat build!
To make the usage a bit safer, how about buying a long drill bit and drill the holes for the threaded rod straight through?
Thats for the jaws 1+3 and 2+4, they have to be a bit off from each other. Then the force from clamping will be through a solid piece of rod for each pair=> the risk of getting hurt decreases and clamping force and confidence increases!
This chuck model must be 3 times easier to build compared to the "Longworth chuck" + adjustable for 0 run out!
//H
I know that you already have a lathe and very rarely saw a use for it, but has building one caused you to want to find uses for it? In any case, I'm really enjoying this series of videos, keep up the great work!
+Jason Patterson Yes, I do keep looking for uses. That's the problem with lathes. You have to find uses for it, because it doesn't have many uses on it's own.
Matthias Wandel you have made every tool yourself, exept a drillpress, couldn't that be a challenge/project??
I never understood how one could center a piece exactly on these chuck where every one of the four adjusmetn escrews is operated indiviually.
I guess it doesn't matter when you start witht a completely raw piece of wood but if the piece is alreadz round and you need to machine it a bit further, how do you center it without a milllion trial and error adjustments?
but I'm always impressed at what you come up with.
+Yves Baggi I think machinists do it all the time. I think it just involves a dial micrometer.
thanks
I'm probably a bit anal about this since I see my self as so unskilled, that I feel I have to rely on precise machinery to align, square and center things for me.
cheers
+Cliff Hartle a dial indicator.
Paul Frederick yea you're right I
Cliff Hartle
I have a few. I do not have a metal lathe though, so I do not use one to center work there. There's two kinds, the push rod, and the lever arm.
I now have a new respect for what can be done with wood.
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To make the chuck safer, I guess you want longer threaded rod, and then glue a ring around the outside of the chuck such that the threaded rods are captured by this new ring. Then the jaws will be totally captured. Would make messing with the nuts a bit of a challenge though...
If you are worried about the nuts flying off just make a removable metal guard to cover the chuck whilst in use.
NB. if the nuts come loose you're likely to realise it a long time before they "fly off" (Ouut), the job will get a "mite" eccentric first.
You are a great teacher,sir.
If the Auto industry adopted the easy to remake approach, we would still be rolling around in Flintstone cars and wearing out shoes. Bearings are an integral part of engineered construction and provide longevity and competence. Raising the QA in your build might yield rewards.
Why not use locknuts or double nut it? I think the nylon lock nuts would work very well here to ensure the fingers don't fly off. Thanks for the videos Matthias!
+David Bierdeman That would be safer, yes. Though more annoying to adjust.
+Matthias Wandel You do amaze me.I would be a little afraid of vibration working a nut loose.The nylock is going to work your glued bolts more though.....
+David Bierdeman Nylock nuts wear out and are a pain to put on and adjust. They're really only meant to be used once or twice.
I understand this.I also understand the pain of a face full of wood.I think the honest reason is that they would probably work the thread stock out of the chuck.This man amazes me but i think he is bat shit crazy trying this.lol
@@dalem04 ಝಿಒ Jio
Hi Matthias looking good, for the safety issue you could make a guard .G
Wonderful video, as usual, Matthias. You make my day any time you upload a video!
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+Eugeniusz Budzich A figure of speech; it means that my day is made better because I watched a top quality video.
Cool! That makes it necessary to mount dismountable wooden bearings
If you made the screws longer you could put on two nuts making it more secure atleast against vibration.
And if you are realy into security may drill a series of holes in the rode and use a locking spring most closly.
Your ingenuity never ceases to amaze :D
I'm surprised too. How on earth did you manage to centre the chuck? I guess I'll have to wait.
+David Handley Adjust the screws till the piece runs true. Just like a metal lathe, it's a little fussy but you get the hang of it quickly.
cutter/split pins or self locking nuts would prevent the whole thing from flying apart
Mr Maeehias Wandel, I really love your work. Speed and accuracy, you work with are really the best. I am too carpenter by birth but I spend my life as nuclear scientist in India. I really appreciate your skill. I would like to work with wood as craft man. Thanks you lot.
Ah! The long awaited, much coveted, 4 jaw chuck. Nice!
You could put the chuck on the Outside and turn Huge bowls on it
maybe you could make a video about wooden chains and tracks? that would be useful.
Reminds me of a Gingery lathe. Nice work!
Buenos dias don Mathias mi nombre es humberto garzon, soy de colombia y recido en bogota D.C, me gustan sus videos soy ebanista, fabrico muebles de hogar, oficina, estoy sus ideas para nuestra facilidad de labores, me gustaria que sus videos se pudieran publicar al español con subtitulos ya que no se nada de ingles en el gremio mio somos muchos ebanistas o carpinteros que nos gustan sus ideas de antemano le agradezco cualquier colaboración gracias
Wouldn't you get more torque if you'd use wood gears instead of the belt and the pulleys ?
I love it! Way to think outside of the box. You amaze me often. I just watched all four lathe videos and am all set to make my own. In fact, I need the lathe to make the parts for the marble machine that I just purchased. Your videos now are much better than they were a couple of years ago. Good job!