I'm sorry that the video is lacking close-up / detail of every that I do... but if you are at least a bit mechanically inclined and are able to understand "what needs to be removed to get at something", you should have no issue doing this repair. Thanks for watching! Let me know if you need me to clarify anything in the videos!
@@martinguigou5313 took me about four hours. I'm not the fastest but I try to make sure I get it right. I was able to slip the housing in and out without discharging any coolant lines.
Just finished this whole process. The gasket between the housing assembly and my engine was rock hard, but I had already ordered a new assembly just in case - so i installed it. After about 7 hours (I’m a noob) and over 3 days I was able to finish this job. The only tool I really needed was a decent mechanics pick. I had a small set of picks but it took forever to break the binds of the coolants hoses - so my suggestion is buy a decent set of the large mechanic’s picks before starting this as it will make disassembly way easier. The other note is that i used 11inch long nose pliers for the hose clamps, so its possible, but a set of hose clamp pliers would have made it way easier. Thanks for the video as I referred to it a lot along the way!
Thank you for sharing your DIY experience! It's nice to hear that one of my videos was of help! Thank you for watching.... Happy New Year to you & yours!
I did this process when replacing the engine on my B7 A4, but a few months later am now having to replace the entire oil filter housing. For $88 it's worth noting that the housing itself does become warped over time, and I would think it would be worth replacing that as well. Thanks for the video.
Did this job twice, about to do it a third time, lol. First time was seals only (mistake) until I researched and discovered it's best to replace the entire housing because engine heat/cool cycles warp it at the engine mating surface. This third time I think I had a cheap knock-off replacement part the second time. Also, small but important detail, any replacement housing you buy, be sure the back side of the inserts the four mounting bolts go through are flush or countersunk to the mating surface of the housing. If they are proud from the surface they will prevent the housing from pressing against the engine enough to compress the gaskets for a proper seal, and you will have leaks. If the replacement part has cheap looking split aluminum inserts instead of quality brass or steel ones, you have a cheap knock-off where the inserts will crush, twist, and leak.
I am SO glad that when I tore my car down from top to bottom to replace the cam chain tensioner I also replaced my oil pump but during this process I also had drained and replaced half of my cooling system. so no coolant. YAY ME NO OIL CHANGE REQUIRED! Woot woot!
@@EXOVCDS I had one of the audi's that not only had a cam chain issue, the oil pump baffle melted and got sucked into the oil pumps feed tube and got stuck partly in the pump. Shockingly the engines fine. This specific repair is all I have left to finalize the car. :)
@@EXOVCDS I am very excited to get her back on the road. Loads of work finally pay off. And with this video I will make full use of it in making the final repair. Thank you Thomas and best of regards.
Excellent vídeo Thomas, thank you very much for the vídeo, my car has that leak and is big, i Will do that Job a week more to stop the leak from around of the oil filter.
Have you ever encountered oil pressure problems on the 1.8t related to the oil filter housing, I believe there are two pressure relief valves on them, I look forward to your input and knowledge Thomas.
@@EXOVCDS Do you think it would be worthwhile removing and cleaning the pressure relief valves, I read a post saying that someone did this and the engine was much quieter afterwards. Thanks for your quick reply.
@@EXOVCDS I've had this problem in the past on a 2000 B5.5 1.8t Passat AWT, removed the sump, clean as a whistle, reassembled, new oil larger filter, never happened again. I'm not having oil pressure problems with this car, Audi A4 B6 1.8t BEX, but 1.8t do have a slightly tappety noise on idle, I'd like to do this just for peace of mind. Thanks again for your input Thomas.
Hot idle, cold idle? High mileage? Lifters will eventually bleed down quicker with age (due to internal wear)... which can cause noise at idle. Higher rpm pumps more oil / quicker to keep the lifters "pumped-up". What weight oil? Try 5w40 if you are currently using 5w30.
It's called protection of intellectual property. There are people using my videos... making more money with them than I am getting from UA-cam. So in a way, the writing is more annoying to me, since it's not doing its job.
On my 05.5 b7 2.0t quattro. first had n80 valve go bad then had the thermostat fail. then the HPFP failed and took out the back of the engine. then 3 months later did the timing belt job with coolant pump, now i have oil leaking again from the oil filter housing/ block. i think ill change the coolant 3 times in 1 year! Audi knows how to make money in their service department! 88k on the clock.
Michael Beckett Sorry to hear... not all of them have the same issues, or at similar mileage. I have yet to see a cam follower issue myself for instance.Timing Belt & Water pump is a service item, so shouldn't really count. :-) Thermostats that fail (early) or oil leaks from that filter housing, that shouldn't happen... but then again, when a car is 8+ years old... that's why a lot of people lease these days. New car every 4 years!
I'm tempted to sell a Thermostat Flange when doing the oil leak repair such as this... simply to save the customer money on labor to pull 1/2 apart again when the thermostat fails. Would you as a customer think that logic to be sound? I wouldn't sell the oil seal to someone in for a thermostat, if there's no sign of oil... but it almost makes sense to go that route as well, since that o-ring is bound to fail down the road.
Thank you for this video. Can you tell me if this would be a good time to do the thermostat as well? My oil leak is slow and only in cold weather. I don't need the thermostat replaced yet, but I will change it when I do the timing belt in 15k miles or so, and I don't want to do the same work twice. Thanks.
I would do the thermostat while you are in there... have you seen my 2 part video? Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ixyRYG44lfs/v-deo.html Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/g8lZ091tGJc/v-deo.html
Hey Thomas how you doin,, Great job as usual.. Was that G12 coolant? I Never use the vacuum coolant filler on old V6 engines either seems to fill the heater core with crap,,
bloodkaiser360 It's engine assembly lube / grease. You don't have to lube the gasket... you can use engine oil if you want. I use the lube because it stays in place better than oil.
looks like it's on to do list. just sprang a leak at the flange seal. I noticed you changed an O-ring off a pipe. could you tell me which ring that was off? since you reccomend changing it..... part #? again thanks for your helpful videos.
+Oscar Marquez All parts can be found at the Audi Parts Site: (sample link) parts.audiusa.com/parts/2008/Audi/A4/Base/?siteid=16&vehicleid=203838§ion=COOLING%20SYSTEM I"d rather not list part numbers in case I make a mistake (would not want you to buy a wrong part). If you deal with ECS Tuning or other online parts places, they will usually be aware of all the parts that are required for different jobs.
You have to squeeze the plastic ring at the end of the plastic hose. When squeezing the plastic ring, the locking fingers release and you can pull the hose off.
Excellent video. What is that specific lubricant - Which brand do you recommend? How many hours of labor do you think is fair for this. Audi told me 2.5h..Thank you so much.
The white stuff is just some engine assembly grease... engine oil or no lube is also OK. Labor guides are a standardized platform to help shops provide estimates and keep costs similar for customers. If a technician can do a job in half the time, good for the technician... but the job is still billed as what the labor guide lists.
Jose Lezcano Torque wrenches come in different sizes... the smaller the torque that is needed, the smaller the torque wrench. I have torque wrenches that are for 1/4" sockets, 3/8" and 1/2". I have craftsman, snap-on and pro tool (i think) brand wrenches.
***** Quick question. Is the Bentley book worth it? Chilton and the other are just garbage. They mostly say 5 words for something that would take you more than an hour. Thank you again =)
Jose Lezcano For the DIY'er, Bentley manuals are great... if you look at my videos, you can see that my tool box has lots of Bentley manuals stacked in the upper shelf, that I have bought over the years. The other option is VW Erwin (online info from VW)... but things will not be explained the way Bentley does.
Contact a VW / Audi Specialty parts store... they will have what you need. Here are a few you can choose from: www.germanautoparts.com/ www.ecstuning.com/ shopdap.com/ www.idparts.com/ www.blauparts.com/
Have you ever seen a bad oil cooler to where it leaks out the side? I put everything together and when I started the vehicle oil started to pour out what looks like the side of the actual cooler. Unless you can think of something I did wrong.
I am replacing the oil cooler and housing along with both gaskets on a VW Golf FSI 2.0. Would you recommend silicone grease, red grease, engine oil or nothing when applying the new seals. I do not have the assembly grease you used. Thank you
What brand of assembly grease did you use on the gaskets ? Going to do this job again since changing the gaskets didnt work for me (as for many people) so I'm changing the whole oil filter housing. Also would hand tight or until the ratchet doesnt turn anymore be good enough without a torque wrench ?
We no longer do gasket alone as well... complete unit. You can use engine oil to lube the o-ring or install dry. For some reason I like to lube using assembly lube.
I’m doing this project now I know this is an older video but if you have the opportunity please respond and let me know about the white Grayson and what other surfaces it’s safe to put on
Sorry about the late reply... I just got home from work. The white grease is generic automotive "assembly lube"... I don't know why I started using it when assembling stuff (feel good factor maybe). You can use engine oil to lube the seals, instead of the grease. I have no idea if the grease is even of help / beneficial to the o-ring or parts that I lube.
We order from local parts suppliers... some reputable online sources: www.ecstuning.com/ www.shopdap.com/ www.idparts.com/ www.fcpeuro.com/ Google search to find more options. As long as you stick with Euro Parts Stores, your pretty much guaranteed to get a quality part.
It's best to get estimates from shops in your local area. I'm in Canada... labor rate ($ per hour) can be different from shop to shop by quite a bit. A job that might take 3 hours could range from $195 to $345 on labor alone... parts are usually more even priced between shops (but can also vary quite a bit). To find a reputable shop in your area, enter your postal code in the search field: iatn.net/repair
What could cause oil in coolant reservoir after a head gasket job? Already replaced oil cooler housing Good compression no smoke from Exhaust, waiting for oil cooler my last option
Depends on how much oil... some oil could have gotten into the cooling system when the head was removed, in which case, the amount of oil collecting in the reservoir will eventually not increase / oil level will not drop when checking the dipstick. If oil level drop continues / increases in the reservoir, the oil cooler could be bad or something with the new head gasket.
@@EXOVCDS quite a bit of oil, reservoir gets over filled with oil, I'd say about 2qts in about 20 miles. I kinda ruled out head gasket.. no smoke no misfires no overheating, car runs great! I'm afraid block could be cracked, had to replace a damaged piston due to detonation
@@fabianjimenez9163 I don't know how common it is for blocks to crack. Check with NaptownTuner what he thinks. He is the 2.0T GURU of youtube! ua-cam.com/video/ajUWVKqJX7M/v-deo.html
1st time I did this, I replaced the whole unit. It lasted about three years before developing another leak. I opted to just replace the seals since it was relatively new, and ended up with water in the oil. I would highly recommend just replacing the whole thing to avoid having to do the job again and engine flushes to get the coolant out.
We used to only replace the seals... but then had customers come back 6 months / 1 year later with a similar oil leak. We now replace the whole assembly... due to being plastic, the housing will change shape slightly (from constant heating & cooling cycles) which affects the sealing efficiency of the o-ring / gasket / seal. The cooler can be reused, but the seals / o-rings need to be changed.
Sorry about the late reply... I just got home from work. The white grease is generic automotive "assembly lube"... I don't know why I started using it when assembling stuff (feel good factor maybe). You can use engine oil to lube the seals, instead of the grease. I have no idea if the grease is even of help / beneficial to the o-ring or parts that I lube.
When tightening the bolts that connect the Oil Filter Housing to the block, is there a certain tightening order? I notice that when torquing them down you do bottom left, then bottom right, then top right, and top left. Is that the correct order, or is there even an order?
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I have some more questions. I replaced these seals 9 months ago, Jan. 2018. Everything has been just fine with no leaks until now. A couple weeks ago, I do a routine oil change, and now I'm leaking oil where the housing meets the block. I put my endoscope in there to confirm, and sure enough that is where it is coming from. Nothing stands out from the oil change, I didn't do anything different. I'm going to have to dig into it again. In this situation what would you do? Reputable mechanics on the local Audi Facebook page say to replace the whole housing instead of just the seals this time. Give me your thoughts on what you would do if this was your car.
hey man, do you happen to have your shop in NYC? it would be great if u were. I have the same issue. my question is, this issue is new for my car. I've owned the car since January of this year and always took it to the audi shop. they always do the work, all of the sudden I have a leak. They told me.about it. before it happened, they had replaced the oil, my question is, is this something that happens after an oil replacement that wasn't done the right way or is it something that happens eventually all on its own? thanks
Happens with age... will happen again in the future. The rubber seals get hard & brittle... causing a leak, the plastic oil fire housings will also break / leak when they get old. Nothing lasts forever. :-(
I did the same, I install the 2 new gaskets, and everything was parfect, after one week start leaking again. But the weird thing is leaking on a cold start. Any ideas?
The plastic housing is probably warped... we have stopped replacing just the gaskets. We now replace the complete unit whenever there is an oil leak concern.
@@EXOVCDS I'm in the same situation. Initially I had coolant leaking problem, but no oil leaking. Done replacement of both gaskets following your video, 4 months later my car is losing oil like crazy, 1+ liter per 350km and I do 1000kms weekly. Same area of engine is all wet from oil leak so it must be where parts mate to engine.. Thanks for the tip, will try replacing a whole housing assembly.. those cars are a nightmare..
Hey I also have the block gasket leaking from the oil housing I'm going the job today or tomorrow Just had a question about the bleeding part How does that work? Your just putting your finger one he hole? Or doing something else with the other hand also?
Ozzaphellah ua-cam.com/video/NsPnIyA8ufE/v-deo.htmlm11s With one hand I am squeezing / pumping the upper radiator hose. Every time I squeeze the hose, I open the bleed hole with the other hand. Before I release the radiator hose, I block the bleed hole. You are squeezing air out of the bleed hole and when blocking the bleed hole, the hose is sucking in coolant from the reservoir (as it expands).
Hey so I replaced both gaskets and stopped the leak everything came out good Not sure about the bleeding part I did the hose squeezing to pump the air out thru the little 10mm hole on rail until fluid came out and then did the heater core one with the heater on max but now my heater only comes out thru the side vents hot If I lower temperature by 1 lower then max it becomes cool air and comes out thru side vents and center one What do you think? How can I fix this?
Ozzaphellah Sorry about the late reply... inconsistent warm air suggests that air is in the system. You probably solved it by now... if not, running it till the thermostat opens, then shutting it off until it is cold and then doing the same thing again, can help bleed air out of the system.
You need to create a siphon effect... I do that by squeezing a coolant hose while the bleeder hole is open. Air will get pushed out. I then close the bleeder hole (before I release the squeezed hose). I let go of the squeezed hose... it will expand and draw coolant from the reservoir into the engine. Repeat the process until coolant comes out of the bleeder hole.
So I just replaced the filter housing and the oil cooler. New gaskets and all (even installed a new oil catch can) upon starting up the car. There is a decent leak coming from underneath the vehicle. What could be causing this? I swear I didn't over torque the bolts? What could be the issue? Thanks
upon further inspection..its coming from where the cap screws on to the filter...why the hell would this be leaking? gasket is in and torqued to spec??
Remove the screw-on cap, spray that area with brake parts cleaner and let dry. Start engine and look for leakage. If it leaks, replace the oil filter housing.
Hey i recently commented that i did this and now ive done it 3 times! Lol its so simple i have no idea why its still leaking between the filter housing and the block..... Any ideas will be appreciated
Did you reuse the housing? We have stopped reusing them... we always install a new housing. With the housing removed, put a straight edge across the part that sits against the block. Look for high / low spots... look at the gasket, it might show signs of weak contact (part of gasket not squished as much as other parts).
@@EXOVCDS Thanks ill definitely try that. Yes its all new housing and gaskets. When i took it of the 3rd time it definitely looked like there was a couple spots on the gasket that werent sealing properly. Does that mean the part is bad?
@@yeeaahhzz Just Google image search "hose crimping pliers". There are many similar styles... the one I have is something like this one: media.wuerth.com/source/eshop/stmedia/wuerth/images/std.lang.all/resolutions/category/576px/2435904.jpg I also have some that look like this: images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41UKi7jckcL._AC_SY400_.jpg
Have not done it yet on a Passat... it is probably a bit more difficult due to the engine sitting left-to-right instead of front-to-back as on the Audi. Removing the radiator fans would probably provide a bit more room. Working from under the car is probably going to be easier than working from the top like on this Audi.
Hey man, merry Christmas! But I just had a question. I did this yesterday for my b7 a4 2.0, and now when I start my car, the fans come on instantly. It’s around 20° outside aswell. I did take it for a quick cruise and got it to OT and it stayed there
@@Hunnaak not sure. Check the ecm & hvac for fault codes. Check engine light doesn't have to be on for a code to be stored. Fans always on is a fail safe when a sensor signal is lost or communication with the fan module is lost.
I just ordered the stuff to do this on my B7. I am losing almost a liter of oil a week from here. You have no idea how much I appreciate the videos.
I'm sorry that the video is lacking close-up / detail of every that I do... but if you are at least a bit mechanically inclined and are able to understand "what needs to be removed to get at something", you should have no issue doing this repair. Thanks for watching! Let me know if you need me to clarify anything in the videos!
watching the hole thing over again (both parts), then on to doing it myself. Thomas you're awesome!
Markus Roby how long it took you to replaced the filter housing seal?
@@martinguigou5313 took me about four hours. I'm not the fastest but I try to make sure I get it right. I was able to slip the housing in and out without discharging any coolant lines.
Just finished this whole process. The gasket between the housing assembly and my engine was rock hard, but I had already ordered a new assembly just in case - so i installed it. After about 7 hours (I’m a noob) and over 3 days I was able to finish this job. The only tool I really needed was a decent mechanics pick. I had a small set of picks but it took forever to break the binds of the coolants hoses - so my suggestion is buy a decent set of the large mechanic’s picks before starting this as it will make disassembly way easier. The other note is that i used 11inch long nose pliers for the hose clamps, so its possible, but a set of hose clamp pliers would have made it way easier. Thanks for the video as I referred to it a lot along the way!
Thank you for sharing your DIY experience! It's nice to hear that one of my videos was of help! Thank you for watching.... Happy New Year to you & yours!
I did this process when replacing the engine on my B7 A4, but a few months later am now having to replace the entire oil filter housing. For $88 it's worth noting that the housing itself does become warped over time, and I would think it would be worth replacing that as well. Thanks for the video.
We used to only replace the seal... but now, always replace the complete housing.
I’m glad to see you say this.. I ended up replacing the whole housing instead of just the seal since my car is 14 years old.
Was good thinking on your part!
Did this job twice, about to do it a third time, lol. First time was seals only (mistake) until I researched and discovered it's best to replace the entire housing because engine heat/cool cycles warp it at the engine mating surface. This third time I think I had a cheap knock-off replacement part the second time. Also, small but important detail, any replacement housing you buy, be sure the back side of the inserts the four mounting bolts go through are flush or countersunk to the mating surface of the housing. If they are proud from the surface they will prevent the housing from pressing against the engine enough to compress the gaskets for a proper seal, and you will have leaks. If the replacement part has cheap looking split aluminum inserts instead of quality brass or steel ones, you have a cheap knock-off where the inserts will crush, twist, and leak.
Good info, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
I am SO glad that when I tore my car down from top to bottom to replace the cam chain tensioner I also replaced my oil pump but during this process I also had drained and replaced half of my cooling system. so no coolant. YAY ME NO OIL CHANGE REQUIRED! Woot woot!
Draining the cooling system first can definitely help prevent cross contamination.
@@EXOVCDS I had one of the audi's that not only had a cam chain issue, the oil pump baffle melted and got sucked into the oil pumps feed tube and got stuck partly in the pump. Shockingly the engines fine. This specific repair is all I have left to finalize the car. :)
@@lmssoftware3130 Very lucky! Sounds like she's in good hands Bet you can't wait to drive her again!
@@EXOVCDS I am very excited to get her back on the road. Loads of work finally pay off. And with this video I will make full use of it in making the final repair. Thank you Thomas and best of regards.
@@lmssoftware3130 Thank you for watching?
Excellent vídeo Thomas, thank you very much for the vídeo, my car has that leak and is big, i Will do that Job a week more to stop the leak from around of the oil filter.
Let me know how it went / if you have any problems.
@@EXOVCDS of course Thomas, thanks👍
Have you ever encountered oil pressure problems on the 1.8t related to the oil filter housing, I believe there are two pressure relief valves on them, I look forward to your input and knowledge Thomas.
Not yet... I think one of my viewers one time mentioned that a new / different housing solved an issue for him.
@@EXOVCDS Do you think it would be worthwhile removing and cleaning the pressure relief valves, I read a post saying that someone did this and the engine was much quieter afterwards. Thanks for your quick reply.
Should be easier to check than removing the oil pan, to check for restricted pickup screen. So definitely worth doing first.
@@EXOVCDS I've had this problem in the past on a 2000 B5.5 1.8t Passat AWT, removed the sump, clean as a whistle, reassembled, new oil larger filter, never happened again.
I'm not having oil pressure problems with this car, Audi A4 B6 1.8t BEX, but 1.8t do have a slightly tappety noise on idle, I'd like to do this just for peace of mind.
Thanks again for your input Thomas.
Hot idle, cold idle? High mileage? Lifters will eventually bleed down quicker with age (due to internal wear)... which can cause noise at idle. Higher rpm pumps more oil / quicker to keep the lifters "pumped-up". What weight oil? Try 5w40 if you are currently using 5w30.
Awesome vid 3rd time I watched it ready to do mine but god that mid screen writing is totally annoying
It's called protection of intellectual property. There are people using my videos... making more money with them than I am getting from UA-cam. So in a way, the writing is more annoying to me, since it's not doing its job.
On my 05.5 b7 2.0t quattro. first had n80 valve go bad then had the thermostat fail. then the HPFP failed and took out the back of the engine. then 3 months later did the timing belt job with coolant pump, now i have oil leaking again from the oil filter housing/ block. i think ill change the coolant 3 times in 1 year! Audi knows how to make money in their service department! 88k on the clock.
By the way, your videos are a life saver!
Michael Beckett Sorry to hear... not all of them have the same issues, or at similar mileage. I have yet to see a cam follower issue myself for instance.Timing Belt & Water pump is a service item, so shouldn't really count. :-) Thermostats that fail (early) or oil leaks from that filter housing, that shouldn't happen... but then again, when a car is 8+ years old... that's why a lot of people lease these days. New car every 4 years!
Michael Beckett Thank you... and thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Wow- Looks a lot easier on a vid than in real life. For me that's a 6 hour job LOL
I'm tempted to sell a Thermostat Flange when doing the oil leak repair such as this... simply to save the customer money on labor to pull 1/2 apart again when the thermostat fails. Would you as a customer think that logic to be sound? I wouldn't sell the oil seal to someone in for a thermostat, if there's no sign of oil... but it almost makes sense to go that route as well, since that o-ring is bound to fail down the road.
STEVE ROB REVIEWS mechanic skills need
@@EXOVCDS This is exactly what I want from my mechanic. I would greatly appreciate an offer like this.
Thank you for this video. Can you tell me if this would be a good time to do the thermostat as well? My oil leak is slow and only in cold weather. I don't need the thermostat replaced yet, but I will change it when I do the timing belt in 15k miles or so, and I don't want to do the same work twice. Thanks.
I would do the thermostat while you are in there... have you seen my 2 part video?
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ixyRYG44lfs/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/g8lZ091tGJc/v-deo.html
Watching them now, thanks! Looks like I might have to get a couple more tools. What is the material you are using to hold the bolts to the torx bit?
I use a piece of an old rubber glove. If you have masking take, place a piece over the socket and then push the bolt head into it... also works well.
From my "Nitrile" gloves.
Hey Thomas how you doin,, Great job as usual.. Was that G12 coolant? I Never use the vacuum coolant filler on old V6 engines either seems to fill the heater core with crap,,
G13.
What exactly is that compound you apply to the gasket? Is it a type of sealant?
bloodkaiser360 It's engine assembly lube / grease. You don't have to lube the gasket... you can use engine oil if you want. I use the lube because it stays in place better than oil.
looks like it's on to do list. just sprang a leak at the flange seal. I noticed you changed an O-ring off a pipe. could you tell me which ring that was off? since you reccomend changing it..... part #? again thanks for your helpful videos.
+Oscar Marquez All parts can be found at the Audi Parts Site: (sample link)
parts.audiusa.com/parts/2008/Audi/A4/Base/?siteid=16&vehicleid=203838§ion=COOLING%20SYSTEM
I"d rather not list part numbers in case I make a mistake (would not want you to buy a wrong part). If you deal with ECS Tuning or other online parts places, they will usually be aware of all the parts that are required for different jobs.
on the oil housing assembly there is a sensor and a plastic hose how do you pry off the hose
You have to squeeze the plastic ring at the end of the plastic hose. When squeezing the plastic ring, the locking fingers release and you can pull the hose off.
Can lithium grease be used as an assembly grease?
www.capitalremanexchange.com/what-is-the-best-type-of-assembly-grease/
Excellent video. What is that specific lubricant - Which brand do you recommend? How many hours of labor do you think is fair for this. Audi told me 2.5h..Thank you so much.
The white stuff is just some engine assembly grease... engine oil or no lube is also OK. Labor guides are a standardized platform to help shops provide estimates and keep costs similar for customers. If a technician can do a job in half the time, good for the technician... but the job is still billed as what the labor guide lists.
***** Thank you for your quick answer. I noticed your torque wrench is quite small what brand is it? If u can say..
Jose Lezcano Torque wrenches come in different sizes... the smaller the torque that is needed, the smaller the torque wrench. I have torque wrenches that are for 1/4" sockets, 3/8" and 1/2". I have craftsman, snap-on and pro tool (i think) brand wrenches.
***** Quick question. Is the Bentley book worth it? Chilton and the other are just garbage. They mostly say 5 words for something that would take you more than an hour. Thank you again =)
Jose Lezcano For the DIY'er, Bentley manuals are great... if you look at my videos, you can see that my tool box has lots of Bentley manuals stacked in the upper shelf, that I have bought over the years. The other option is VW Erwin (online info from VW)... but things will not be explained the way Bentley does.
Could you please list the part numbers for the "oil filter housing seal" and the "oil cooler seal" or where we can look to find them?
Contact a VW / Audi Specialty parts store... they will have what you need. Here are a few you can choose from:
www.germanautoparts.com/
www.ecstuning.com/
shopdap.com/
www.idparts.com/
www.blauparts.com/
Have you ever seen a bad oil cooler to where it leaks out the side? I put everything together and when I started the vehicle oil started to pour out what looks like the side of the actual cooler. Unless you can think of something I did wrong.
If it didn't leak before... then it's probably not sitting correctly.
Thanks for the video and text.
Thank you for watching!
I am replacing the oil cooler and housing along with both gaskets on a VW Golf FSI 2.0. Would you recommend silicone grease, red grease, engine oil or nothing when applying the new seals. I do not have the assembly grease you used. Thank you
Apply oil on oil seals... the coolant seal can go in dry or wet with a bit of coolant.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you. Your video has been so helpful. Doing this job on a golf Gt FSI is a hell of a job.
What brand of assembly grease did you use on the gaskets ? Going to do this job again since changing the gaskets didnt work for me (as for many people) so I'm changing the whole oil filter housing. Also would hand tight or until the ratchet doesnt turn anymore be good enough without a torque wrench ?
We no longer do gasket alone as well... complete unit. You can use engine oil to lube the o-ring or install dry. For some reason I like to lube using assembly lube.
I’m doing this project now I know this is an older video but if you have the opportunity please respond and let me know about the white Grayson and what other surfaces it’s safe to put on
Sorry about the late reply... I just got home from work.
The white grease is generic automotive "assembly lube"... I don't know why I started using it when assembling stuff (feel good factor maybe). You can use engine oil to lube the seals, instead of the grease. I have no idea if the grease is even of help / beneficial to the o-ring or parts that I lube.
Where did you install the ground that’s connected to the sensor on the housing ?
It's a 2 wire sensor / switch... one of the wires is the ground wire.
The prices I have seen for an oil filter housing run around $250 to around $80. Would you care to recommend a place ??
We order from local parts suppliers... some reputable online sources:
www.ecstuning.com/
www.shopdap.com/
www.idparts.com/
www.fcpeuro.com/
Google search to find more options. As long as you stick with Euro Parts Stores, your pretty much guaranteed to get a quality part.
If u don’t mind me ask u something how much is the for that job on audi housing oilfilter replacement im gonne needed soon mine Leaking too thanks
It's best to get estimates from shops in your local area. I'm in Canada... labor rate ($ per hour) can be different from shop to shop by quite a bit. A job that might take 3 hours could range from $195 to $345 on labor alone... parts are usually more even priced between shops (but can also vary quite a bit). To find a reputable shop in your area, enter your postal code in the search field: iatn.net/repair
What could cause oil in coolant reservoir after a head gasket job?
Already replaced oil cooler housing
Good compression no smoke from Exhaust, waiting for oil cooler my last option
Depends on how much oil... some oil could have gotten into the cooling system when the head was removed, in which case, the amount of oil collecting in the reservoir will eventually not increase / oil level will not drop when checking the dipstick. If oil level drop continues / increases in the reservoir, the oil cooler could be bad or something with the new head gasket.
@@EXOVCDS quite a bit of oil, reservoir gets over filled with oil, I'd say about 2qts in about 20 miles.
I kinda ruled out head gasket.. no smoke no misfires no overheating, car runs great!
I'm afraid block could be cracked, had to replace a damaged piston due to detonation
@@fabianjimenez9163 I don't know how common it is for blocks to crack. Check with NaptownTuner what he thinks. He is the 2.0T GURU of youtube!
ua-cam.com/video/ajUWVKqJX7M/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS awesome! I'll check him out thanks
You know what, this is a lot of work for an oil filter leak. I'm just gonna sell the whole car now lol. Great video though!
Are you the original owner or second / third owner?
Parts don't last forever... once repaired, it will be fine again for another 10 years.
@@EXOVCDS Second owner. It has 118,000 miles.
1st time I did this, I replaced the whole unit. It lasted about three years before developing another leak. I opted to just replace the seals since it was relatively new, and ended up with water in the oil. I would highly recommend just replacing the whole thing to avoid having to do the job again and engine flushes to get the coolant out.
@@headstrong6523 I ended up replacing it a few months ago.
@@chasecavalier6316 at first I thought the chocolate milk color was from the Ceratec additive but the the loss off coolant told the truth
Do we need to change to whole assembly (housing & cooler) or only seals and orings refresh is good enough ? My car is leakinga lot too :(
We used to only replace the seals... but then had customers come back 6 months / 1 year later with a similar oil leak. We now replace the whole assembly... due to being plastic, the housing will change shape slightly (from constant heating & cooling cycles) which affects the sealing efficiency of the o-ring / gasket / seal. The cooler can be reused, but the seals / o-rings need to be changed.
@@EXOVCDS thank you for your answer, thats what i tought, its better to change the whole assembly while ur at it
What is the white grease that you use to lubricate the seals?
Sorry about the late reply... I just got home from work.
The white grease is generic automotive "assembly lube"... I don't know why I started using it when assembling stuff (feel good factor maybe). You can use engine oil to lube the seals, instead of the grease. I have no idea if the grease is even of help / beneficial to the o-ring or parts that I lube.
When tightening the bolts that connect the Oil Filter Housing to the block, is there a certain tightening order? I notice that when torquing them down you do bottom left, then bottom right, then top right, and top left. Is that the correct order, or is there even an order?
Follow the instructions of the service manual... I can't remember if I did or not.
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I have some more questions. I replaced these seals 9 months ago, Jan. 2018. Everything has been just fine with no leaks until now. A couple weeks ago, I do a routine oil change, and now I'm leaking oil where the housing meets the block. I put my endoscope in there to confirm, and sure enough that is where it is coming from. Nothing stands out from the oil change, I didn't do anything different. I'm going to have to dig into it again. In this situation what would you do? Reputable mechanics on the local Audi Facebook page say to replace the whole housing instead of just the seals this time. Give me your thoughts on what you would do if this was your car.
Yes... replace the whole assembly. We used to also only replace the seals.... but had several come-backs. So we always replace the whole assembly now.
Got in and got it all done today. Followed the video the whole way. Thanks for doing this! Hopefully I won't have to do it a 3rd time. Lol
@@masonhalligan8205 Keep me posted... but should be ok for several more years now! =)
hey man, do you happen to have your shop in NYC? it would be great if u were. I have the same issue. my question is, this issue is new for my car. I've owned the car since January of this year and always took it to the audi shop. they always do the work, all of the sudden I have a leak. They told me.about it. before it happened, they had replaced the oil, my question is, is this something that happens after an oil replacement that wasn't done the right way or is it something that happens eventually all on its own? thanks
Happens with age... will happen again in the future. The rubber seals get hard & brittle... causing a leak, the plastic oil fire housings will also break / leak when they get old. Nothing lasts forever. :-(
oil "filter" housings... not fire.
+Thomas EXOVCDS okay. thanks for the info provided and all the videos. they always help!
I did the same, I install the 2 new gaskets, and everything was parfect, after one week start leaking again. But the weird thing is leaking on a cold start.
Any ideas?
The plastic housing is probably warped... we have stopped replacing just the gaskets. We now replace the complete unit whenever there is an oil leak concern.
Thanks for the advice. I will try that 👍
did you replace the housing and fix the cold sartup leak or did you find that the gasket you replaced was pinched?
@@EXOVCDS I'm in the same situation. Initially I had coolant leaking problem, but no oil leaking. Done replacement of both gaskets following your video, 4 months later my car is losing oil like crazy, 1+ liter per 350km and I do 1000kms weekly. Same area of engine is all wet from oil leak so it must be where parts mate to engine.. Thanks for the tip, will try replacing a whole housing assembly.. those cars are a nightmare..
@wojciech Keep me updated once you've had a chance to replace it.
Great video. Thanks!!
Thank you for watching!
Hey I also have the block gasket leaking from the oil housing
I'm going the job today or tomorrow
Just had a question about the bleeding part
How does that work?
Your just putting your finger one he hole?
Or doing something else with the other hand also?
Ozzaphellah ua-cam.com/video/NsPnIyA8ufE/v-deo.htmlm11s With one hand I am squeezing / pumping the upper radiator hose. Every time I squeeze the hose, I open the bleed hole with the other hand. Before I release the radiator hose, I block the bleed hole. You are squeezing air out of the bleed hole and when blocking the bleed hole, the hose is sucking in coolant from the reservoir (as it expands).
Oh ok cool
One last question I forgot to ask
The Antifreez mine takes G12
Is the Audi one cool to fill up with?
So I can pick it up after work
Ozzaphellah Here's a chart that shows what is compatible with what:
www.ecstuning.com/forum/audi/CoolantMixChart.jpg
Hey so I replaced both gaskets and stopped the leak everything came out good
Not sure about the bleeding part
I did the hose squeezing to pump the air out thru the little 10mm hole on rail until fluid came out and then did the heater core one with the heater on max but now my heater only comes out thru the side vents hot
If I lower temperature by 1 lower then max it becomes cool air and comes out thru side vents and center one
What do you think?
How can I fix this?
Ozzaphellah Sorry about the late reply... inconsistent warm air suggests that air is in the system. You probably solved it by now... if not, running it till the thermostat opens, then shutting it off until it is cold and then doing the same thing again, can help bleed air out of the system.
when you were filling the coolant..so all you do is clamp off that hose and then push where that breather hole is?
You need to create a siphon effect... I do that by squeezing a coolant hose while the bleeder hole is open. Air will get pushed out. I then close the bleeder hole (before I release the squeezed hose). I let go of the squeezed hose... it will expand and draw coolant from the reservoir into the engine. Repeat the process until coolant comes out of the bleeder hole.
Thomas EXOVCDS perfect! Got it, thanks!!
So I just replaced the filter housing and the oil cooler. New gaskets and all (even installed a new oil catch can)
upon starting up the car. There is a decent leak coming from underneath the vehicle. What could be causing this? I swear I didn't over torque the bolts? What could be the issue? Thanks
upon further inspection..its coming from where the cap screws on to the filter...why the hell would this be leaking? gasket is in and torqued to spec??
Follow the leak to the source... the housing might not be sitting correctly / flush. I can't tell from where I am at. Oil pressure switch?
what do does the gasket get coated with?
I use assembly lube... engine oil also works.
At 1:10 the piece you screwed on there if that's loose would it leak oil out of it?
It shouldn't... the spring loaded drain valve should prevent oil from draining. The cap is just a cap that screws on.
@@EXOVCDS ok thank you...I'm just gettin an oil leak around that area I was hoping that's the cause but most likely the housing will need replaced
Remove the screw-on cap, spray that area with brake parts cleaner and let dry. Start engine and look for leakage. If it leaks, replace the oil filter housing.
Hey i recently commented that i did this and now ive done it 3 times! Lol its so simple i have no idea why its still leaking between the filter housing and the block..... Any ideas will be appreciated
Did you reuse the housing? We have stopped reusing them... we always install a new housing. With the housing removed, put a straight edge across the part that sits against the block. Look for high / low spots... look at the gasket, it might show signs of weak contact (part of gasket not squished as much as other parts).
@@EXOVCDS Thanks ill definitely try that. Yes its all new housing and gaskets. When i took it of the 3rd time it definitely looked like there was a couple spots on the gasket that werent sealing properly. Does that mean the part is bad?
Could be... it could be that the metal sleeves (that ar in the housing... the ones that the bolts go through) are not sitting evenly in the housing.
@@EXOVCDS Interesting, people on Audizine are telling me to go with an oem one instead of the $88 ecs one that i used. Thanks for the advice👍
Go with OEM if you can't find any reason for the leak. ECS will probably warranty / refund a faulty part.
Whats the size on tht oil filter housing cap ?
36mm.... thanks for watching!
What kinda tool you using to clamp the coolant tank line?
At what part in the video (time)?
@@EXOVCDS 25:07
@@yeeaahhzz Just Google image search "hose crimping pliers". There are many similar styles... the one I have is something like this one:
media.wuerth.com/source/eshop/stmedia/wuerth/images/std.lang.all/resolutions/category/576px/2435904.jpg
I also have some that look like this:
images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41UKi7jckcL._AC_SY400_.jpg
@@EXOVCDS Thanks so much! I kept searching "clamping" pliers and couldn't find them. Thank you so much again for these videos, they're so awesome.
How difficult is this job in a Passat?
Have not done it yet on a Passat... it is probably a bit more difficult due to the engine sitting left-to-right instead of front-to-back as on the Audi. Removing the radiator fans would probably provide a bit more room. Working from under the car is probably going to be easier than working from the top like on this Audi.
Hey man, merry Christmas! But I just had a question. I did this yesterday for my b7 a4 2.0, and now when I start my car, the fans come on instantly. It’s around 20° outside aswell. I did take it for a quick cruise and got it to OT and it stayed there
Did you unplug a coolant temperature sensor and not plug it back in?
@@EXOVCDS I don’t believe so? I think I’m going to rewatch the two parts that you posted, and make sure I got everything situated.
@@Hunnaak ok
@@EXOVCDS I rewatched it, and checked my engine bay and everything I removed or touched. Do you have any ideas or what to look for?
@@Hunnaak not sure. Check the ecm & hvac for fault codes. Check engine light doesn't have to be on for a code to be stored. Fans always on is a fail safe when a sensor signal is lost or communication with the fan module is lost.
where you get the gaskets?
www.ecstuning.com/
Anyone know what size o ring for the coolant pipe
Number 19 in this link?
audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4+s4+avant+quattro/a4q/2007-454/1/121-121024/
@@EXOVCDS yeah
@@EXOVCDS thanks bro your a life saver lmao
@@jalorma_52psngaming6 thank you for watching!
is there an email i could ask u some questions on or a number? related to a 2.0t a4
fkh161 link in the description... then, click on "tool request".
Did you find it?
This is gonna be a bitch on the b6 Passat.. suspected an oil pan gasket but, this is probably the cause of my leak. Smh..