Thank you, I really like your channel/ I have an 08 F250 Super duty with 5.4 and have been dealing with the spark plugs for days. You have helped guide this old shade tree mechanic a great deal.
This is like the 5th time you have saved my truck from the junkyard. I don't ever want to get rid of her and thanks to you and these videos I won't have to. Thanks for being there and keep up the most excellent work.
I just did mine in a police interceptor and this kit worked great, the results look very professional, above all there's no place or shop can warranty this job and IS NOT CHEAP. It's worth it try to repair it yourself. 👍👍👍
Really appreciate your information and knowledge! I was deployed and the #8 blew out on my 4.6 and the one mechanic I could find initially told me $250 for boot, plug and labor. Keep in mind I am 6k miles away and he at least sent me an email telling me my motor is shot and needs the engine replaced for $6,000! I had my wife get the truck removed from his business and it has been parked ever since. He did not charge me anything but since being back I still have not found anyone in my area to give me a second opinion. The engine has 170k miles and I have religiously taken care of this truck. It does not leak and I think it still has life. It is a 2004 STX and I have accomplished all the prevenative maintenance. I am the single owner and have changed 2 light bulbs and the brakes on this truck in it's life span. This has been a good truck. I'm throwing it out there in the hopes you or someone on this page might know a reputable shop in the New Orleans area that might help me out. Thanks!
I personally use JB Weld with that same kit you have. Just make sure it is not the kwikset version of JB Weld. Have never had one come back out. I work at A Ford dealership in California. Enjoy your content on this channel.
Thanks Makuloco, I have watched many of your videos, and as usual you are exactly right. So glad that we have a guy like you in our corner. Please keep up the great videos, and we totally appreciate it.
Dorman makes a little kit for like $30 that uses an insert and a newer long plug. It works surprisingly well. It's a good option for diy and you can get it at any parts store. It's literally a two step process. Super easy.
The shops are probably charging the several hours to pay for the $500 kit in one job. They are probably getting the kit just to do that one particular job and do not want to wait and spread the cost over several jobs. As always a great video. Good job!
Also Dorman makes a kit, I only bring it up because I ran into this on my own 5.4. I did not install it, I found it already installed when I bought the truck. The kit contains whats looks like a tap with the center drilled out to accept a 3 valve spark plug. Now it was working fine when I bought the truck. During the spark plug change, I found this thing, did some research to find out what it was. I removed it before I knew what it was and installed the regular plug. Well 2 years and 10k miles later I have yet to have the plug blow out. Don't know if I just got lucky or what. LOL Great videos by the way.
I used the large head tap kit on a roadside repair on a 4.6 Crown Vic before. I took an angle grinder to make the head a 5/8ths. Worked great other than the next ten miles the engine chattered from ceramic in the combustion chamber. Once that pulverized the compression went to 120 or so and they kept driving fine.
Van-cal had an issue with the quality department making the inserts. Some people installed the inserts and they were not seating all the way. Go to hardware store and buy a 3/4 x 16 nut and screw it on to each insert to make sure the threads are smooth. A mechanic on YT posted a video about the inserts. I forgot his channel name. I bought the Van-cal kit for 245.00 with free shipping. I checked each insert and found 1 bad one. I'm glad i found that video before messing up a job i'm doing. That would of been a nightmare. Nice clean video and easy to understand FTM. Watched your video to see what groove the C-clip clipped onto. Thanks.
I've done quite a few of these at work. I use q bond on the ear of the coil with success. I also use the fix a thread kit with the too big of a head on the tap. I just grind down the head of the tap until it will fit down the spark plug hole with a socket on it. Thanks for your videos.
FordTechMakuloco good point. Luck was on my side when I grinded it, lol.The tap I grinded down has seen its last job. I was just gonna grab another one but now that you brought that up, I'm gonna purchase the one you recommend. Thanks.
Ended up going for the timesert kit for a 03 4.6 2v. About the same price for me and worked well. I would add going and checking the torque on the plugs every few oil changes.
Great vids…one question…my 18 yr old grandsons first vehicle …we bought it on the cheap thinking we could use this “kit”…2010 F150 vin W 4.6 #3 cyl 2v…but this kit states up to yr. 2003…any thoughts?? Thanks Al
I now understand why I was able to acquire my T-bird for cheap. The previous owner must of needed this done, and didn't want to spend money. It was done when I acquired the car and now I can confirm what the shavings were. Sic:)!
I just had a customer come in for this job. I told them before they brought the vehicle that I don't enjoy doing this job, but it's a Sunday and they're trying to get out of town. #2 Cyl so pretty easy. I use JB Weld on the insert threads. I've actually had these come in with a previous insert that backed out-threads on both ends were okay, JB'ed it and put it back in. Worked fine. I charge 2 hours, 3 possibly if it's a #4 or 8 cyl.
I have this kit and put my first insert in today in 30 min.if you need to repair a plug, only use this kit if you don't, you'll be doing it twice the others won't hold.
Thank you for this video!!! I just took my f150 into the shop and they charged me 9 hours of labor and also removed the head. Cilinder head resurface, cilinder head power wash, head gasket kit with bolts ($279) which rediculous price, new front crank shaft seal, head gasket r&r included valve carbon removal (9hr at $60/hr)=$540... Be carful guys where you take you cars to get fixed and make sure you do your research!!!! Total he was trying to charge me $1000 when all i neded is to replace blowen out spark plug thats it!
you make it very clear I had no problem doing this on my on thanks and made it clear why the cheap ones won't last. just to weak material. heavy duty is what I was looking for. thanks for video. my search was over thanks to you!!
I seem to remember when they first came out with this engine. The first TSB was to fix the blown out 1 with some old kit for Escorts back when then remove and retorque the other 7 due to under torque at the plants.
Now that I finished the exhaust manifold replacement, this is next. At 260,000K she is due for some repairs. I think I know WHY the shops are charging 5 hours; The kit is $230 divided by 4 is about $60/hr + 1 hour for actual labor. Add on another for profit & mark-up. The first customer pays for the tools! Thank you for your great videos!
I used one of those thread savers a few years ago on my Duratec engine and it failed. I fixed it the other day a Big Sert kit. I was dubious about those tread savers for good reason. My truck has a Triton 2 valve and I will definitely use a Cal Van kit to repair a blown out plug on it.
Hello Just repair one and put everything back together and the coil pack seems like it sits higher, then the other cylinders that are not repair ? Would that be a issue ?
Had this happen 3 times on my old crown Vic which was my first car... a tip I learned luckily before I did this was to get some kind of air blower or try to turn the motor over with the plug out and fuel relay disconnected to shoot the aluminum shavings out of the cylinder so it doesn't get down into the oil pan. Just a little tip if it isn't already in the video
great concept of the calvan kit but my question is what if the plug that blowed out was one of the ones under the firewall. how will i be able to drill out the hole
I just started replacing plugs in my 2003 f150 5.4 and the previous owner used a dorman repair insert and when I pulled the plug out the insert broke off will that drill bit get that out for me thanks
I can tell you by experience, the #4 plug is extremely difficult to reach, especially with the tool you showed. It was a very involved and timely process, which would justify the 4 hours of labor charged out. The truck did have 200k on it, and when I chose to change the rest of the plugs out, found that half were Motorcraft and the other half Champion. This was an under-maintained vehicle with many hard to move fasteners and electrical connectors. The New York State rust belt doesn't help either. It can be a regional thing, but certainly a lack of proper maintenance thing. It is more difficult to change the plugs on this engine, but you only have to do it every 100k, so it's all relative. Great video, BTW, just wish the actual cylinder was shown getting the insert put in. I realize the issue with getting right in there, but hey, I like watching someone say "No big deal" and "Watch this" at the same time! Just glad I wasn't working on the 3 valve Triton this time!
Mr. Brian, CalVan Repair? Would you encourage the Calvan inserts be installed not as a repair but as a prevention from plug blowouts. Had to pull a cracked intake from a 230K+ 02 - 5.4l 2v eng. While it's apart I'm considering installing CalVan inserts in all the cylinders purely to PREVENT plug blowouts. Currently plug threads are stock and not damaged (borescope checked.) I am a "If it ain't Broke DONT Fix it kind of guy" but I try to be smart/ prudent as well. In addition, with the less than desirable Ford factory spark plug thread configuration my concern is that a blowout could severely damage the head even beyond what the Calvan Kit is designed to repair. Your thoughts are appreciated.
The clip is a good idea, but I use an o-ring on mine. It won't go past it and o-rings are cheap and usually stocked. Love this kit though. Never had a problem with my drill bit but I did think it took a bit to bite and start cutting.
What were the engineers at Ford thinking, only using three threads for the spark plugs, in the 5.4 2v engine? Think there would be a recall, or actions being taken to solve this issue, for us owners of this particular f150 5.4 2v.
Great video and very helpful 👍🏼. I have a question. I have an 04 gt 4.6 2 valve and about 2 months ago my car threw a plug. I pulled the plug out and it had already been re threaded, there was a helix coil around the plug. Is there another repair kit I can buy to re thread it or will I have to buy a new head?
hopefully you get back quickly lol, im doing the repair tomorrow.... I have been hearing a squeaking tapping sound on this new/used expedition I traded my Chevy truck for 1998 5.4l for about a week and finally today leaving Napa I started it and pop went the plug on start up..broke the ignition coil....i got it to work, I'm a heavy equipment mechanic so i know my way around a vehicle pretty well. #4 plug was the blow out so I pulled the coil out and then the plug came out in 1 piece and didn't look like anything was damaged but the plug bottom from flopping around...I pulled the other plugs as well on that bank and they were just covered in soot/ash. I want to just stick a good plug back in there and tighten it without the insert? if I ordered the nice kit you have in the video saying if just retorque a new plug and it fails.... how can I get a drill in number 4 cylinder being under the cowl by the bulkhead?
Seems like a design flaw that Ford should split the bill for. Had one blow out, dealer wanted $400 for one plug. A fiend had the tool so I did it in a half hour.
Do the heads need to be out before this procedure? Or can it be done without taking out the heads? Please let me know. I just installed new head gaskets n heads bolts on my 6.8l. Still waiting on few things to get here before shes ready to run. Thanks
I was on Highway when this happend. Coil pack was still loosely in its hole. Could not find the plug. Is it possible for the plug to fall into the cylinder?
My drill bit keeps binding and I live in Canada so the kit is hard to come by, have to wait a week or more....wondering if I can thread out with the save-a-thread tap and then use the drill bit on a larger diameter hole to see if it will work???? Very expensive here in Canada 🇨🇦 for this quality control oversite....
Are you saying the Calvan system will grind out a broken insert from a previous repair? I have an insert , the top third separated and bottom 2/3 is in the plug hole, all the way back on No.4 of my 5.4. Very nervous about using an easy out on it.
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 that blew a spark plug. 4.6 engine. The kit you show is for years 1996 to 2003. Is there a different kit for 2005 years to use? Thank you for your help.
Great video man, just had this happen to cylinder #4 on my 6.8l. I'd love to see you demonstrate this on the big triton. #4 is tough, but #5 and #10 may be easier through the glove box! Lol. It stinks that nobody makes a v10 insert kit, just v8's. Those extra 2 inserts get pricey with some of these kits.
i have a question about temperatures. my sons truck will not fit through my garage door so this repair will have to be done outside,...........and its cold out. 15 to 30 degrees out. will this present a problem?,.............should i find a garage and thaw the truck out first?
I'm curious to know what my local machine shop used on my '02 Mustang because it blew back out in just over 170 miles, engine caught fire, and burned the whole car down. I insisted that they use the nut insert rather than a helicoil for this reason and they said they used the same one they use at the dealer but who knows. I'm definitely glad I had comprehensive insurance!
That's what I was thinking, hindsight being 20/20 I wish I had just done the repair myself but the price of the timesert kit was more than what they wanted for the whole repair.
Just a quick warning about using any borescope for internal engine inspection. If you want to use a tool such as an angled mirror for looking at the valves, make absolutely certain that the tool is magnetic! Don't ask me how I know....
You explained how to get the intake and outtake valves closed with the rubber plug and shop air, and you said the cylinder needs to be down, but how do you get the cylinder down if you find that it is up? I just discovered your channel and love it! Please just explain how to get the cylinder all the way to the bottom. Thanks!
Hello, nice video. I tried to google search to see if any ford rangers blow out spark plugs to, but no luck. Do you know if any ford ranger years has this same problem?
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you for your response. I've been investigating this problem for the past few days and I'm perplexed as to why there is no definitive answer regarding this issue. Some suspect the OEM plug threads were to short....blaming the plug manufacture. Others say its the cylinder head design that won't allow the short threaded plugs enough thread grip and torque properly, blaming Ford. Its amazing how evasive everyone has been. What is the actual problem?? Maybe its the combination of both? That's my assumption.
What engineer at Ford thought, "Hey, lets use a long plug with three threads on these Triton motors..what could possibly go wrong? Then all their superiors figured it would be a good idea to produce this engine for 19 years and counting!
+FordTechMakuloco Just about to turn 300,000 miles on my original '97 F150 4.6... 5 sets of plugs, haven't had this issue yet. No major repairs, never had the heads off. The intake manifold gaskets were the most involved repair so far. 19 years and yep, I'm counting.
+FordTechMakuloco I have a 98 Ford Crown Victoria the spark plug blew out with the insert on the plug is it good to try to put in another had this car about five years didn't know it all ready had one in it can it be fixed
Hello! I ordered the kit to fix my 2v 4.6L. Just a question, i do not have a air ratchet, but will be getting one. What do i need to do this job without any hiccups? air ratchet or impacting air ratchet.? and what specs of the ratchet is required? thanks in advanced!
Ordered this kit and was the wrong size. M spark plugs are the other model. They are skinnier and longer. I found the thread size . They are m12×1.25. Do they make this kit with this size threads? I can't find it. I had to order a different kit.
hi just to let you know a friend of mine had is plugs changed and they broke 3 plugs and cost him 700.00 from ford dealer in Lethbridge Alberta . thanks' for great video
the shop is saying my spark plug hole can't be fixed because the Helicoil Falls right in the hole. is it possible for me to use aluminum weld on my 04 Ford Expedition
Thank you very much, very good step by step,.. I have a 2001 XLT f150 5.4 and I can only find a insert kit for the 3 valve engine. what is the difference between the 3 valve and 2 valve spark plug threads, or seems like the kits are the same! Is there difference in years as well,..again Thank You!
hi I have a 2005 Ford f250 with a 5.4 motor that has a blown out spark plug kit in it but the insert broke any ideas on how to remove a previous spark plug fix kit insert.
i searched comments but didnt see, i only see 8 inserts, its a v10 so im short 2? what link do you have to buy the same inserts packs? fir the extra 2 i need? thanks
I think you missed a step. I use anti-seize on the plug. Then that way when you service the plug, the insert stays in and no chance it will comeout with the plug.
Claude Rains I firmly believe manufacturers do not use anti-seize in the factory because most plugs are changes after the warranty has expired. I do not believe spark plug makers claims that spark plug threads are self lubricating and corrosion proof after 60K to 120K miles. I do not believe a small amount of anti-seize on threads decrease heat transfer. Even if anti-seize cause slight over torqueing, 20% above 12 foot-pounds cannot be that bad (especially in Fords). I always use anti-seize on plugs, but I do not slop it on like I use to. I believe anti-seize has a carbon displacing quality between the threads which is very helpful when removing the plug. If any or all of this is bogus, please do what you can to correct me.
I removed plugs without it and some broke off at the base. Do what you like but I'm using it. As I don't like spending 2 hrs fixing what should take 10 mins. And aluminum is the worst. You have two very dissimilar metals that cause corrosion.
I agree a little anti seize on the plug like normal although they say with playing now it's not needed. My thoughts are anti seize or not the insert will stay and the plug will come out like normal that loctite is strong stuff.
***** I totally agree that antisieze can easily cause overtightening. So can loctite and loctite is specified on certain fasteners.But that's where experience comes into play. You get a feel for the difference of a dry and lubed fastener. I personally apply a tiny bit of antisieze to spark plugs. Again, you're absolutely right that a lubed fastener can cause problems for different reasons, especially with aluminum. Thanks for sharing.
***** As stated below I only put a minute amount on and the torquing is all in the feel from many years of experience, I know all about dry and wet torques I know what you mean.
Hey, I have an 08 f150 4.6, I have just started to get a Bucking and hesitation on Acceleration after 3rd gear. from what i have been reading most are saying Bad coil/Plugs, I had new ford plugs at 105,000 km. and i'm at 123 now. Just wondering if you have had any experience with this issue.? p.s fuel filter and air filter are new. Thank you for your time.
Brian, I got a 2v 5.4, plug #7 didnt blow out, but when I removed it for a normal maintenance plug change, only the porcelain came out. The thread "basket" and ground strap are seized in the head. I've tried a #5 easy out, wouldn't touch it, broke two sockets from the torque. Help!
If this repair has been done to my expedition 5.4L can it do it again? i am not sure what kit was used. i am having same problem again with the sameone that i had a shop repair about a year ago
You mentioned the threads are not sufficient, especially in the early models. When did they add more threads? I just bought a 2008 F150, 4.6, and am wondering if I am going to have to deal with this problem. Great video.
I REALLY ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO AND HAD A QUESTION OR TWO, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY FORD EXPEDITION 0N CYLINDER 2 AND TO IT TO A REPAIR SHIP WHO ADVISED THAT IT NEEDED TO BE RE-THREADED, AND AFTER THE SERVICE THE TRUCK RAN GOOD FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS AND THEN IT BLEW OUT. THE THREAD USED WAS HALF THE SIZE OF THE SPARK PLUG THREAD AND ABOUT AS THIN AS THE BLACK ONE YOU SHOWED ON YOUR VIDEO. I LIVE IN SAVANNAH GA AREA AND WAS WONDERING IF YOU CAN RECOMMEND WHO YOU WOULD CONSIDER IN THIS CASE. ALSO WOULD THAT KIT WORK ON MY EXPEDITION
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 #3 And #4 spark plugs are rounded completely from previous owner and are stuck in the head I now have the head off how can I get them out. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
i yes did one on my 1998 f-150 4.6 v8 i did used napa helicoil used for 2 day end its miss fire on the same cylinder any idea replaced coil pack spark plug wires fuel injector still miss fire any idea why
Fair warning to those attempting this job. Check for old helicoil in the plug hole before you drill. Which I did but couldn't see it. I used my air ratchet to drill and it was tough and took a while, I thought it was because I have a small compressor that wasn't powerful enough. Low and behold when I was checking to make sure I got all the shavings out I found a piece of helicoil on top of the piston. The helicoil job was done by a previous owner. So if you don't see helicoil before drilling and have troubles drilling, stop and check again. You don't want my new problem.
Update: after a day and half of failed attempt after failed attempt. I finally got the old piece of helicoil out of the cylinder without removing the head. WOO HOO!!!!!!!
Very nice video !! Question what is the outer diameter of that cal van insert?? And is there a smaller kit from cal van i used the dorman kit it lasted about three years but now those threads are bad
Hi Brian, question?! I bought a 98 E350 V 10 140k about month ago. I want to tune it up i'm not sure if plugs has ever blown out, what can I do to prevent it from happening after I change them? Thanks
FordTechMakuloco thanks for all your videos!!! Huge help to say the least! I'm trying to figure out which kit to get to do this on cylinder 6 on my 2003 ford e250 5.4l v8 16v? Thanks
Will this last kit you used work on a DOHC 4.6? I have a mach 1 that blew a coil pack and damaged the spark plug threads along with it and would like fix it asap.
The real question here: can you do this process on all 8 cylinders without removing the fuel rail? On my 2005 4.6 F150 that fuel rail is directly over the plugs, barely enough room to pull the coil out. I just discovered my #3 cylinder has been (poorly) repaired this way because the insert came out during a plug change. Looked like a tiny smear of JB weld on the threads was the only thing holding it in. Fun times
Hi. I did the Cal Van repair on my 99 Expy 5.4L back in 2010. This summer, I had my local Ford dealer replace all the spark plugs. The other day, the sleeve shot out with the plug. I have no idea how that would have happened. Now, the threads for the sleeve are stripped out in the head. What are the options after that? I'm guessing a new head. I'll have to do it myself as I don't work now as I'm disabled. Unfortunately, funds are very tight.
I spoke to an Engineer at the Cal-Van company. He said that the fact that my cal-van sleeve blew out is because the aluminum in the heads that Ford used is crap and is weak metal. He advised that I can "travel uncharted territory" and use a 3/4" - 16 Heli-Coil Kit to make new threads to accommodate the Cal-Van Sleeve to accommodate the spark plug. How long it will last (if it does at all) is the question. Other option is a new head. That's a major job for a DIY guy.
Is there any other loctite to use with these. Like 272 or 271. One of the two is rated to 450 degrees. I can’t find 266 in any auto parts stores and just a small bottle online is like 30 bucks. Any help would be appreciated. Also does it matter if it’s Romeo heads? I know it will make about 3/8” higher in the chamber but any issues with that?
Hey if anyone could give me advice I would appreciate it. I have a 97 f150 4.6 with a broken plug in cylinder #4 broken above the threads. I already got the porcelain busted out of the plug with a variety of tools mainly my hammerdrill. Now the threads are stuck. With dried up pb blaster on the head.. I will now drill it out and put a insert. any suggestions on how to clean the cylinder of all the metal shavings very good? I see everyone blowing shavings out of a dry cylinder, mine isn't so dry. I figure if I get water spraying from the top down I can just vacuum it all up easy. or should I not use water?
Hi. Great videos for Ford people! I have a 2002 Mustang GT Auto. 120k miles. I have had one of the spark plugs blowout. I had it repaired. Is there any way to prevent this from happening to any of the other spark plugs? Thanks!
Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit I recommend-
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Loctite 266-
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Cheap Wifi Endoscope I use-
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Thank you, I really like your channel/ I have an 08 F250 Super duty with 5.4 and have been dealing with the spark plugs for days. You have helped guide this old shade tree mechanic a great deal.
How about putting a thick oil in the cylinder to trap the shavings then use a evac tank to suck it out?
This is like the 5th time you have saved my truck from the junkyard. I don't ever want to get rid of her and thanks to you and these videos I won't have to. Thanks for being there and keep up the most excellent work.
I just did mine in a police interceptor and this kit worked great, the results look very professional, above all there's no place or shop can warranty this job and IS NOT CHEAP. It's worth it try to repair it yourself. 👍👍👍
Really appreciate your information and knowledge! I was deployed and the #8 blew out on my 4.6 and the one mechanic I could find initially told me $250 for boot, plug and labor. Keep in mind I am 6k miles away and he at least sent me an email telling me my motor is shot and needs the engine replaced for $6,000! I had my wife get the truck removed from his business and it has been parked ever since. He did not charge me anything but since being back I still have not found anyone in my area to give me a second opinion. The engine has 170k miles and I have religiously taken care of this truck. It does not leak and I think it still has life. It is a 2004 STX and I have accomplished all the prevenative maintenance. I am the single owner and have changed 2 light bulbs and the brakes on this truck in it's life span. This has been a good truck. I'm throwing it out there in the hopes you or someone on this page might know a reputable shop in the New Orleans area that might help me out. Thanks!
Same thing just happened to me except it was cylinder 3 and I was quoted $8,000 for a engine swap
WOW, Excellent Demonstration! Thanks
This just happened on my way home from work today. Very happy the cylinder head doesn't need to come off. Great video
I personally use JB Weld with that same kit you have. Just make sure it is not the kwikset version of JB Weld. Have never had one come back out. I work at A Ford dealership in California. Enjoy your content on this channel.
Thanks Makuloco, I have watched many of your videos, and as usual you are exactly right. So glad that we have a guy like you in our corner. Please keep up the great videos, and we totally appreciate it.
They don't call them the "stealership" for no reason. This is why I work on my own cars. Thanks to video's like this, it helps us DIY'ers.
Dorman makes a little kit for like $30 that uses an insert and a newer long plug. It works surprisingly well. It's a good option for diy and you can get it at any parts store. It's literally a two step process. Super easy.
What parts would I need for the kit?
I bought the calvan kit off Amazon and did it myself. It was pretty straightforward.
I used this kit, the insert cracked after a year. Now trying this ADT KIT.
No no no dont use that kit theyd are half assed not even the rigt plug and pure garbage that will lead to more damge when it blows out
The shops are probably charging the several hours to pay for the $500 kit in one job. They are probably getting the kit just to do that one particular job and do not want to wait and spread the cost over several jobs. As always a great video. Good job!
Also Dorman makes a kit, I only bring it up because I ran into this on my own 5.4. I did not install it, I found it already installed when I bought the truck. The kit contains whats looks like a tap with the center drilled out to accept a 3 valve spark plug. Now it was working fine when I bought the truck. During the spark plug change, I found this thing, did some research to find out what it was. I removed it before I knew what it was and installed the regular plug. Well 2 years and 10k miles later I have yet to have the plug blow out. Don't know if I just got lucky or what. LOL Great videos by the way.
Nice job! You displayed exceptional functional expertise. UA-cam needs more vids like yours.
New Ford's are total junk anymore
I've be a Ford man until trition motors came out ,Ford wake up
I used the large head tap kit on a roadside repair on a 4.6 Crown Vic before. I took an angle grinder to make the head a 5/8ths. Worked great other than the next ten miles the engine chattered from ceramic in the combustion chamber. Once that pulverized the compression went to 120 or so and they kept driving fine.
😳🤯🫣
Van-cal had an issue with the quality department making the inserts. Some people installed the inserts and they were not seating all the way. Go to hardware store and buy a 3/4 x 16 nut and screw it on to each insert to make sure the threads are smooth. A mechanic on YT posted a video about the inserts. I forgot his channel name. I bought the Van-cal kit for 245.00 with free shipping. I checked each insert and found 1 bad one. I'm glad i found that video before messing up a job i'm doing. That would of been a nightmare. Nice clean video and easy to understand FTM. Watched your video to see what groove the C-clip clipped onto. Thanks.
I've done quite a few of these at work. I use q bond on the ear of the coil with success. I also use the fix a thread kit with the too big of a head on the tap. I just grind down the head of the tap until it will fit down the spark plug hole with a socket on it. Thanks for your videos.
Michael Herbert Yeah I thought of doing that but figured I would make it uneven and wobble when I used it.
FordTechMakuloco good point. Luck was on my side when I grinded it, lol.The tap I grinded down has seen its last job. I was just gonna grab another one but now that you brought that up, I'm gonna purchase the one you recommend. Thanks.
Ended up going for the timesert kit for a 03 4.6 2v. About the same price for me and worked well. I would add going and checking the torque on the plugs every few oil changes.
Great vids…one question…my 18 yr old grandsons first vehicle …we bought it on the cheap thinking we could use this “kit”…2010 F150 vin W 4.6 #3 cyl 2v…but this kit states up to yr. 2003…any thoughts?? Thanks Al
This may be a spark plug rethread video for specific Ford issues, but I learned a lot generally toward other applications as well.
I now understand why I was able to acquire my T-bird for cheap. The previous owner must of needed this done, and didn't want to spend money. It was done when I acquired the car and now I can confirm what the shavings were. Sic:)!
BTW Great video!!!!!!
I just had a customer come in for this job. I told them before they brought the vehicle that I don't enjoy doing this job, but it's a Sunday and they're trying to get out of town. #2 Cyl so pretty easy. I use JB Weld on the insert threads. I've actually had these come in with a previous insert that backed out-threads on both ends were okay, JB'ed it and put it back in. Worked fine. I charge 2 hours, 3 possibly if it's a #4 or 8 cyl.
I have this kit and put my first insert in today in 30 min.if you need to repair a plug, only use this kit if you don't, you'll be doing it twice the others won't hold.
Thank you for this video!!! I just took my f150 into the shop and they charged me 9 hours of labor and also removed the head. Cilinder head resurface, cilinder head power wash, head gasket kit with bolts ($279) which rediculous price, new front crank shaft seal, head gasket r&r included valve carbon removal (9hr at $60/hr)=$540...
Be carful guys where you take you cars to get fixed and make sure you do your research!!!! Total he was trying to charge me $1000 when all i neded is to replace blowen out spark plug thats it!
you make it very clear I had no problem doing this on my on thanks and made it clear why the cheap ones won't last. just to weak material. heavy duty is what I was looking for. thanks for video. my search was over thanks to you!!
+Steve Falls Yup this kit is definitely a heavy duty permanent repair.
I love how you explain things.....what ever you do.....never stop teaching....thank you so much.....03 Vic
I seem to remember when they first came out with this engine. The first TSB was to fix the blown out 1 with some old kit for Escorts back when then remove and retorque the other 7 due to under torque at the plants.
very clear step by step over view of this repair sure made my day go a lot easier Thanks
Now that I finished the exhaust manifold replacement, this is next. At 260,000K she is due for some repairs. I think I know WHY the shops are charging 5 hours; The kit is $230 divided by 4 is about $60/hr + 1 hour for actual labor. Add on another for profit & mark-up. The first customer pays for the tools! Thank you for your great videos!
I used one of those thread savers a few years ago on my Duratec engine and it failed. I fixed it the other day a Big Sert kit. I was dubious about those tread savers for good reason. My truck has a Triton 2 valve and I will definitely use a Cal Van kit to repair a blown out plug on it.
man, you should be an instructor!! good job on explaining how it works
Thanks!
Hello
Just repair one and put everything back together and the coil pack seems like it sits higher, then the other cylinders that are not repair ?
Would that be a issue ?
Had this happen 3 times on my old crown Vic which was my first car... a tip I learned luckily before I did this was to get some kind of air blower or try to turn the motor over with the plug out and fuel relay disconnected to shoot the aluminum shavings out of the cylinder so it doesn't get down into the oil pan. Just a little tip if it isn't already in the video
Thanks for the video, There are so many kits that it was hard to know which is best.
that kit works in the new model of trucks f150 2004 triton to? I
would li to know please
great concept of the calvan kit but my question is what if the plug that blowed out was one of the ones under the firewall. how will i be able to drill out the hole
You attach the reamer to a standard 3/8" ratchet or air ratchet- amzn.to/2hZ9IzG
You are doing a great job, with your video!!!!!!.keep the good work, replaced my spark plugs 2005 ford f150 5.4 2005.
With the help of your videos.
I just started replacing plugs in my 2003 f150 5.4 and the previous owner used a dorman repair insert and when I pulled the plug out the insert broke off will that drill bit get that out for me thanks
I can tell you by experience, the #4 plug is extremely difficult to reach, especially with the tool you showed. It was a very involved and timely process, which would justify the 4 hours of labor charged out. The truck did have 200k on it, and when I chose to change the rest of the plugs out, found that half were Motorcraft and the other half Champion. This was an under-maintained vehicle with many hard to move fasteners and electrical connectors. The New York State rust belt doesn't help either. It can be a regional thing, but certainly a lack of proper maintenance thing. It is more difficult to change the plugs on this engine, but you only have to do it every 100k, so it's all relative. Great video, BTW, just wish the actual cylinder was shown getting the insert put in. I realize the issue with getting right in there, but hey, I like watching someone say "No big deal" and "Watch this" at the same time! Just glad I wasn't working on the 3 valve Triton this time!
Mr. Brian,
CalVan Repair?
Would you encourage the Calvan inserts be installed not as a repair but as a prevention from plug blowouts.
Had to pull a cracked intake from a 230K+ 02 - 5.4l 2v eng.
While it's apart I'm considering installing CalVan inserts in all the cylinders purely to PREVENT plug blowouts.
Currently plug threads are stock and not damaged (borescope checked.)
I am a "If it ain't Broke DONT Fix it kind of guy" but I try to be smart/ prudent as well. In addition, with the less than desirable Ford factory spark plug thread configuration my concern is that a blowout could severely damage the head even beyond what the Calvan Kit is designed to repair.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
The clip is a good idea, but I use an o-ring on mine. It won't go past it and o-rings are cheap and usually stocked. Love this kit though. Never had a problem with my drill bit but I did think it took a bit to bite and start cutting.
What were the engineers at Ford thinking, only using three threads for the spark plugs, in the 5.4 2v engine? Think there would be a recall, or actions being taken to solve this issue, for us owners of this particular f150 5.4 2v.
Great video and very helpful 👍🏼. I have a question. I have an 04 gt 4.6 2 valve and about 2 months ago my car threw a plug. I pulled the plug out and it had already been re threaded, there was a helix coil around the plug. Is there another repair kit I can buy to re thread it or will I have to buy a new head?
So if i tighten them properly they shouldnt blow out?
hopefully you get back quickly lol, im doing the repair tomorrow.... I have been hearing a squeaking tapping sound on this new/used expedition I traded my Chevy truck for 1998 5.4l for about a week and finally today leaving Napa I started it and pop went the plug on start up..broke the ignition coil....i got it to work, I'm a heavy equipment mechanic so i know my way around a vehicle pretty well. #4 plug was the blow out so I pulled the coil out and then the plug came out in 1 piece and didn't look like anything was damaged but the plug bottom from flopping around...I pulled the other plugs as well on that bank and they were just covered in soot/ash.
I want to just stick a good plug back in there and tighten it without the insert?
if I ordered the nice kit you have in the video saying if just retorque a new plug and it fails.... how can I get a drill in number 4 cylinder being under the cowl by the bulkhead?
Seems like a design flaw that Ford should split the bill for. Had one blow out, dealer wanted $400 for one plug. A fiend had the tool so I did it in a half hour.
Which kit? I can't find a kit for 32v 4.6 mach 1
Do the heads need to be out before this procedure? Or can it be done without taking out the heads? Please let me know. I just installed new head gaskets n heads bolts on my 6.8l.
Still waiting on few things to get here before shes ready to run. Thanks
I was on Highway when this happend. Coil pack was still loosely in its hole. Could not find the plug. Is it possible for the plug to fall into the cylinder?
No the plug blew out for sure
How about putting a thick oil in the cylinder to trap the shavings then use a evac tank to suck it out?
My drill bit keeps binding and I live in Canada so the kit is hard to come by, have to wait a week or more....wondering if I can thread out with the save-a-thread tap and then use the drill bit on a larger diameter hole to see if it will work???? Very expensive here in Canada 🇨🇦 for this quality control oversite....
Are you saying the Calvan system will grind out a broken insert from a previous repair? I have an insert , the top third separated and bottom 2/3 is in the plug hole, all the way back on No.4 of my 5.4. Very nervous about using an easy out on it.
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 that blew a spark plug. 4.6 engine. The kit you show is for years 1996 to 2003. Is there a different kit for 2005 years to use? Thank you for your help.
Great video man, just had this happen to cylinder #4 on my 6.8l. I'd love to see you demonstrate this on the big triton. #4 is tough, but #5 and #10 may be easier through the glove box! Lol. It stinks that nobody makes a v10 insert kit, just v8's. Those extra 2 inserts get pricey with some of these kits.
i have a question about temperatures. my sons truck will not fit through my garage door so this repair will have to be done outside,...........and its cold out. 15 to 30 degrees out. will this present a problem?,.............should i find a garage and thaw the truck out first?
I'm curious to know what my local machine shop used on my '02 Mustang because it blew back out in just over 170 miles, engine caught fire, and burned the whole car down. I insisted that they use the nut insert rather than a helicoil for this reason and they said they used the same one they use at the dealer but who knows. I'm definitely glad I had comprehensive insurance!
+UnsulliedSpy There is no way a time sert kit like the dealer uses failed.
That's what I was thinking, hindsight being 20/20 I wish I had just done the repair myself but the price of the timesert kit was more than what they wanted for the whole repair.
+UnsulliedSpy Yeah that is why I recommend this kit, works very well and never a problem.
Unfortunately I trusted a "professional" shop to do a better job than I thought I would have done and it cost me my car and everything inside of it.
Just a quick warning about using any borescope for internal engine inspection. If you want to use a tool such as an angled mirror for looking at the valves, make absolutely certain that the tool is magnetic! Don't ask me how I know....
You explained how to get the intake and outtake valves closed with the rubber plug and shop air, and you said the cylinder needs to be down, but how do you get the cylinder down if you find that it is up? I just discovered your channel and love it! Please just explain how to get the cylinder all the way to the bottom. Thanks!
Great Video! I'm about to buy a 97 4.6 f150 and these spark plugs are the biggest thing i'm worried about!
What's the difference between the 2v & 3v kits? Varying well diameter?
Hello, nice video. I tried to google search to see if any ford rangers blow out spark plugs to, but no luck. Do you know if any ford ranger years has this same problem?
No
It is my understanding that the OEM Spark Plugs were the issue which only had 4 threads and not the lack of threads in the cylinder heads. Am I wrong?
+Trace Eubanks Those were the worst ones yes.
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you for your response. I've been investigating this problem for the past few days and I'm perplexed as to why there is no definitive answer regarding this issue. Some suspect the OEM plug threads were to short....blaming the plug manufacture. Others say its the cylinder head design that won't allow the short threaded plugs enough thread grip and torque properly, blaming Ford. Its amazing how evasive everyone has been. What is the actual problem?? Maybe its the combination of both? That's my assumption.
What engineer at Ford thought, "Hey, lets use a long plug with three threads on these Triton motors..what could possibly go wrong? Then all their superiors figured it would be a good idea to produce this engine for 19 years and counting!
+cbsctomh That engine was the most reliable they have built in a long long time besides this issue of course.
+FordTechMakuloco Just about to turn 300,000 miles on my original '97 F150 4.6... 5 sets of plugs, haven't had this issue yet. No major repairs, never had the heads off. The intake manifold gaskets were the most involved repair so far. 19 years and yep, I'm counting.
+FordTechMakuloco I have a 98 Ford Crown Victoria the spark plug blew out with the insert on the plug is it good to try to put in another had this car about five years didn't know it all ready had one in it can it be fixed
Hello! I ordered the kit to fix my 2v 4.6L. Just a question, i do not have a air ratchet, but will be getting one. What do i need to do this job without any hiccups? air ratchet or impacting air ratchet.? and what specs of the ratchet is required? thanks in advanced!
Is there a difference between a 4.6 Triton and a 4.6 modular as in a 06 grand marquis ?
Ordered this kit and was the wrong size. M spark plugs are the other model. They are skinnier and longer. I found the thread size . They are m12×1.25. Do they make this kit with this size threads? I can't find it. I had to order a different kit.
hi just to let you know a friend of mine had is plugs changed and they broke 3 plugs and cost him 700.00 from ford dealer in Lethbridge Alberta . thanks' for great video
the shop is saying my spark plug hole can't be fixed because the Helicoil Falls right in the hole. is it possible for me to use aluminum weld on my 04 Ford Expedition
Thank you very much, very good step by step,.. I have a 2001 XLT f150 5.4 and I can only find a insert kit for the 3 valve engine. what is the difference between the 3 valve and 2 valve spark plug threads, or seems like the kits are the same! Is there difference in years as well,..again Thank You!
+JoeT001 Big difference you want to use this kit for 2v engines like yours-amzn.to/1Y2URmY
hi I have a 2005 Ford f250 with a 5.4 motor that has a blown out spark plug kit in it but the insert broke any ideas on how to remove a previous spark plug fix kit insert.
i searched comments but didnt see, i only see 8 inserts, its a v10 so im short 2? what link do you have to buy the same inserts packs? fir the extra 2 i need? thanks
Will the repair work on a '97 Ford F-150 5.4l engine that blew the same plug a second time? It was done once already before I bought the truck
I have a v6 mustang needing this repair. Not much room the cylinder is near the fender area. Which kit or stuff would I need? I have the 3.8L
I think you missed a step. I use anti-seize on the plug. Then that way when you service the plug, the insert stays in and no chance it will comeout with the plug.
Claude Rains
I firmly believe manufacturers do not use anti-seize in the factory because most plugs are changes after the warranty has expired. I do not believe spark plug makers claims that spark plug threads are self lubricating and corrosion proof after 60K to 120K miles. I do not believe a small amount of anti-seize on threads decrease heat transfer. Even if anti-seize cause slight over torqueing, 20% above 12 foot-pounds cannot be that bad (especially in Fords).
I always use anti-seize on plugs, but I do not slop it on like I use to. I believe
anti-seize has a carbon displacing quality between the threads which is very
helpful when removing the plug. If any or all of this is bogus, please do what
you can to correct me.
I removed plugs without it and some broke off at the base. Do what you like but I'm using it. As I don't like spending 2 hrs fixing what should take 10 mins.
And aluminum is the worst. You have two very dissimilar metals that cause corrosion.
I agree a little anti seize on the plug like normal although they say with playing now it's not needed. My thoughts are anti seize or not the insert will stay and the plug will come out like normal that loctite is strong stuff.
***** I totally agree that antisieze can easily cause overtightening. So can loctite and loctite is specified on certain fasteners.But that's where experience comes into play. You get a feel for the difference of a dry and lubed fastener. I personally apply a tiny bit of antisieze to spark plugs. Again, you're absolutely right that a lubed fastener can cause problems for different reasons, especially with aluminum. Thanks for sharing.
***** As stated below I only put a minute amount on and the torquing is all in the feel from many years of experience, I know all about dry and wet torques I know what you mean.
Where is you shop located?
Hey, I have an 08 f150 4.6, I have just started to get a Bucking and hesitation on Acceleration after 3rd gear. from what i have been reading most are saying Bad coil/Plugs, I had new ford plugs at 105,000 km. and i'm at 123 now. Just wondering if you have had any experience with this issue.? p.s fuel filter and air filter are new. Thank you for your time.
i know this is an old video but i have to ask ... can you do an insert on a 4.0 ( 2005 mustang)
Brian, I got a 2v 5.4, plug #7 didnt blow out, but when I removed it for a normal maintenance plug change, only the porcelain came out. The thread "basket" and ground strap are seized in the head. I've tried a #5 easy out, wouldn't touch it, broke two sockets from the torque. Help!
If this repair has been done to my expedition 5.4L can it do it again? i am not sure what kit was used. i am having same problem again with the sameone that i had a shop repair about a year ago
You mentioned the threads are not sufficient, especially in the early models. When did they add more threads? I just bought a 2008 F150, 4.6, and am wondering if I am going to have to deal with this problem. Great video.
No yours are fine.
I have this issue right now with my 2008 F150 4.6 2V
but 315 000 KM tho
Why not use green lock or sleeve lock , red is removable with heat ?
I REALLY ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO AND HAD A QUESTION OR TWO, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY FORD EXPEDITION 0N CYLINDER 2 AND TO IT TO A REPAIR SHIP WHO ADVISED THAT IT NEEDED TO BE RE-THREADED, AND AFTER THE SERVICE THE TRUCK RAN GOOD FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS AND THEN IT BLEW OUT. THE THREAD USED WAS HALF THE SIZE OF THE SPARK PLUG THREAD AND ABOUT AS THIN AS THE BLACK ONE YOU SHOWED ON YOUR VIDEO. I LIVE IN SAVANNAH GA AREA AND WAS WONDERING IF YOU CAN RECOMMEND WHO YOU WOULD CONSIDER IN THIS CASE. ALSO WOULD THAT KIT WORK ON MY EXPEDITION
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 #3 And #4 spark plugs are rounded completely from previous owner and are stuck in the head I now have the head off how can I get them out. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
hi man 5.4 and 5.0 is same automatique transmission? i wont to change motor for 5.0 tanks
i yes did one on my 1998 f-150 4.6 v8 i did used napa helicoil used for 2 day end its miss fire on the same cylinder any idea replaced coil pack spark plug wires fuel injector still miss fire any idea why
Fair warning to those attempting this job. Check for old helicoil in the plug hole before you drill. Which I did but couldn't see it. I used my air ratchet to drill and it was tough and took a while, I thought it was because I have a small compressor that wasn't powerful enough. Low and behold when I was checking to make sure I got all the shavings out I found a piece of helicoil on top of the piston. The helicoil job was done by a previous owner. So if you don't see helicoil before drilling and have troubles drilling, stop and check again. You don't want my new problem.
Update: after a day and half of failed attempt after failed attempt. I finally got the old piece of helicoil out of the cylinder without removing the head. WOO HOO!!!!!!!
Will this repair work on a 2008 ford crown victoria 4.6L 2v modular engine?
clearly explained and yes automotive Con's ruin honest Tech's but honest work will prevale good instructions and tool choices Mark
Very nice video !! Question what is the outer diameter of that cal van insert?? And is there a smaller kit from cal van i used the dorman kit it lasted about three years but now those threads are bad
Hi Brian, question?! I bought a 98 E350 V 10 140k about month ago. I want to tune it up i'm not sure if plugs has ever blown out, what can I do to prevent it from happening after I change them? Thanks
While tapping the engine head what happens to the metal debris,suppose it falls into the combustion chamber.
+RichR65Ct Some do yes that it why it's very important to clean them out with some compressed air and check with a borescope.
FordTechMakuloco thanks for all your videos!!! Huge help to say the least! I'm trying to figure out which kit to get to do this on cylinder 6 on my 2003 ford e250 5.4l v8 16v? Thanks
FordTechMakuloco is it possible to use an extended magnet to pull out any debris as well, or will compressed air do the trick?
Magnet wont pick up aluminum. Who ever said that should check themselves.
Is a 2004 f150 a two valve?
Never heard of any such issue with the GM LS engine...
Because GM wouldn't build such a hokey head...
Will this last kit you used work on a DOHC 4.6? I have a mach 1 that blew a coil pack and damaged the spark plug threads along with it and would like fix it asap.
I am curious as well, I have a 96 Cobra 4.6 DOHC and a plug blew out. Having a hard time finding a 4v kit or even info!
The real question here: can you do this process on all 8 cylinders without removing the fuel rail? On my 2005 4.6 F150 that fuel rail is directly over the plugs, barely enough room to pull the coil out. I just discovered my #3 cylinder has been (poorly) repaired this way because the insert came out during a plug change. Looked like a tiny smear of JB weld on the threads was the only thing holding it in. Fun times
Hi. I did the Cal Van repair on my 99 Expy 5.4L back in 2010. This summer, I had my local Ford dealer replace all the spark plugs. The other day, the sleeve shot out with the plug. I have no idea how that would have happened. Now, the threads for the sleeve are stripped out in the head. What are the options after that? I'm guessing a new head. I'll have to do it myself as I don't work now as I'm disabled. Unfortunately, funds are very tight.
I spoke to an Engineer at the Cal-Van company. He said that the fact that my cal-van sleeve blew out is because the aluminum in the heads that Ford used is crap and is weak metal. He advised that I can "travel uncharted territory" and use a 3/4" - 16 Heli-Coil Kit to make new threads to accommodate the Cal-Van Sleeve to accommodate the spark plug. How long it will last (if it does at all) is the question. Other option is a new head. That's a major job for a DIY guy.
Is there any other loctite to use with these. Like 272 or 271. One of the two is rated to 450 degrees. I can’t find 266 in any auto parts stores and just a small bottle online is like 30 bucks. Any help would be appreciated. Also does it matter if it’s Romeo heads? I know it will make about 3/8” higher in the chamber but any issues with that?
Will the 3v kit work on the 2v engine?
Can the CalVan Tools 38900 rethreader be used on 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor?
Hey if anyone could give me advice I would appreciate it.
I have a 97 f150 4.6 with a broken plug in cylinder #4 broken above the threads. I already got the porcelain busted out of the plug with a variety of tools mainly my hammerdrill. Now the threads are stuck. With dried up pb blaster on the head..
I will now drill it out and put a insert. any suggestions on how to clean the cylinder of all the metal shavings very good?
I see everyone blowing shavings out of a dry cylinder, mine isn't so dry.
I figure if I get water spraying from the top down I can just vacuum it all up easy.
or should I not use water?
I just had this happen on 4.6 2002 Mustang GT with 160K. Good Video
Hi. Great videos for Ford people! I have a 2002 Mustang GT Auto. 120k miles. I have had one of the spark plugs blowout. I had it repaired. Is there any way to prevent this from happening to any of the other spark plugs? Thanks!