Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L 3v Engines: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- These are the tools I have found to work when extracting broken studs-
Basic Black Oxide drill bits used-
www.amazon.com/...
Upgraded Titanium Nitride Coated drill bits for not much more-
www.amazon.com/...
Micro Extractor set-(in case the stud spins in deeper during drilling)
www.amazon.com/...
Standard Extractor set-
www.amazon.com/...
Compact right angle Drill-
www.amazon.com/...
Mapp Oxygen Torch Kit I used-
www.amazon.com/...
Kroil Oil for tough frozen studs-
www.amazon.com/...
Original Exhaust Manifold replacement video-
• Ford Explorer 4.6L 3v:...
Final drill bit length that works on 4.6l 3v Engines:
1/16 BIT- 47MM
5/64 BIT- 42MM
3/32 BIT- 39MM
7/64 BIT- 42MM
1/8 BIT- 38MM
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
NEVER..EVER .. has anything came off of my truck this easy. He is truly blessed by the ford gods 😅
I have never had an extractor work either, have same set.. just fixed manifold and EGR tube on an E150 van, 3 studs snapped, had to drill and tap them, luckily the rear ones and could reach from tunnel on a 5.8, then bought a newer F150 3 valve and of course, the manifolds are leaking on that as well...
This guy is the probably the best mechanic UA-camr, all his vids are so well done. Thanks FordTechMakuloco!!
Thank You!!
Can’t say enough about how professional and easy to follow your Vids are Brian!!! Thank you soooo much for these awesome explanations and instruction. Thank you sir!
I wish the factories would start using anti-seize on most everything, especially stuff like this. I'd rather have something like this come loose and leak than break and leak. You are definitely the "car whisperer". You have talents that continually amaze me!
That’s not the problem here the problem here is the quality of the studs.. I almost never drill anything out I weld a nut to the broken stud and back it out like that. If I do drill I use left handed drill bits they are already short bits and since they spin left handed if it “catches” the broken stud it will back it out if it’s not frozen in there. He did do a great job drilling these studs it’s not easy to drill nice and straight like this I use a guide to get them drilled in the center.
Brian.....you're still one of the best all around Techs. Thanks for taking me along.
Ok, u have no idea how many different "broken stud" videos i have watched and while most were good, none of them fit my situation so the process wouldnt work. The studs on my 5.4l 2v head broke off about a 1/2 inch in the hole and now i finally have the right process and access to the right extractor set to get the job done. Thank you so much for this video!!
I am amazed that you've taken the painstaking effort to put these videos together. I plan on getting an Expedition with a 5.4L pretty soon here, and it looks like I've found my source for information.
Thanks for helping us regular folk out.
D. Utley
How did that work out for you?
Thanks for the video! I managed to extract two broken exhaust manifold studs from my 2000 Navigator 4 valve. I followed pretty much step by step as per your video. I did a dry run with a stud in my bench vise to ensure I had the correct drill bits. Worked like a charm. This is the third of your video's I've used with success!! One to change all the lash adjusters on my 2000 Navigator and one to change the Cam Phasers on my Wife"s 2005 Navigator.. Great!! Thanks again!!!
Both back where broken on mine for a total of 4 studs.
$16 air angle drill harbor freight
$22 extractor set Lowes
Your video.. Priceless
Thank you much for these tips extremely helpful
No better feeling than when a broken bolt finally come out! I have 2 I've been dealing with for a month.
Is like a big honor!
Pray for me
I just finished replacing the passenger side exhaust manifold. The two rear studs were broken. On the top, I drilled a hole and started to remove the stud with a Grab It Pro #1. It was turning and coming out then the extractor tip snapped off in the hole. Looked around and found several references to using Dremel bit 953 (aluminum oxide grinding stones) to cut through a broken extractor. Took two bits to get through it but it worked out. Opened the hole up a bit more and used the larger #2 extractor to finish the stud removal.
As always, thank you for the video. I've finished two repairs on my truck now with your help. Great step by step guides.
That Grabit brand of extractor I own works well but i have had issues twice with the smallest one snapping the tips off. The other day I drilled out a small WSS wire bracket bolt on a E250 steering knuckle and the bit tip broke off. I think it was just way too rust welded to be extracted. Without rust the tool works good. The Grabit honors the lifetime warranty, mail it back and they send you a replacement.
Okay, I just completed the driver side on my 4.6L '06 Explorer, what I learned.
1.) Plan more than a day. 3 of 8 studs broke off
2.) Remove the sway bar for better access
3.) If the grip it screw extractor does not work do NOT use an easy out. It sucks when they break off placing a hardened piece of steel in the hole. If you are stupid enough (like me) to break an easy out off, figure on carbide tipped dremel tools and a helicoil kit.
4.) Partially remove plastic wheel well liner to get better access
5.) Studs for #4 cylinder can be drilled with a flex shaft Dremel
6.) An aircraft style angle drill with threaded shank drill bits is awesome (but expensive)
7.) To install the lower stud on #2, first put the nut on the stud. Use a 13mm ratcheting box wrench with articulating head. It is a bear to get to that location due to the motor mount.
8.) Make it a kid free zone. Cussing will occur.
9.) As one other said, using a grinder to reduce part of the shaft of a #1 screw extractor works well, much better than micro extractor and small Crescent wrench.
I’ve been watching all your videos on the Triton engine, you are an absolute artist ...
Rogue Wrench I can agree with you on that ... my Triton power plant has given me very little issue in 234,000 miles . The ONLY time it was ever in the shop was to get the plastic intake manifold replaced at 200,000 miles .
Awesome Brian! I have fought that battle and feel your pain!! A few tips and tricks I can offer that have occasionally worked are: if the stud broke off even with the flange -which they often do, is to weld a nut (which fits over the whole stud) and lay into it hard until that thing glows cherry red (filling up the internal part of the nut). Once it's cooled a bit, you can try backing it out. It should go easy at this point since you have heated it enough to swell the stud and expand the joint some. If it's still stubborn hit the nut with a Mapp torch and then cool it off with some PB Blaster or equivalent penetrating oil and let it suck some in and try again. If need be - you can weld yet another nut on to of the other hut (keep the flat faces together of course) and after all the heat - it should come out. If not then your method of cutting off the drill bit and using the right angle drill is the last resort. they make a right angle drill with a flex shaft input that works well with a Dremel toll or a Foredom tool that is very helpful in tight spaces also. I agree about avoiding pulling the heads if you can. Also, I went with a stainless exhaust stud kit off of ebay that has a hex end on them www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4-6-5-4-LITER-V8-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-STUDS-STUD-KIT-UPR-2025-36-/290959054080?hash=item43be82d500:g:O9YAAOxySOlSBkyp&vxp=mtr
I have not been disappointed with them so far. I will bet they will be much easier to work on next time! I think from now on I will swap those out with every vehicle I own early on! ;>P Good luck people - I am pulling for you!
+The69badcat Agreed the weld method is the best but most don't have access to a welder. I hope to have a video on that method in the future.
"I thought I would never... Use this crescent wrench", made my day for some reason. Thanks for the incredibly detailed videos... I have this to do on my 5.4L F150. Hopefully the two easy rear ones are what are broken :)
Thanks for taking the time to post the video. I'm going to be tackling the pass side manifolds on my Super Duty next week. I'll offer a bit of unsolicited machinist advise. First, after center punching, the centering hole should be drilled using a center drill. These drills are stout, short and won't flex. This should be enough to step up to the final size. If you feel you need to drill a smaller diameter pilot hole, don't use a drill greater in dia than the web (drill center material when looking at the end of bit) thickness of your final drill size. If you can find them, "screw machine" length drills are perfect for this. They are short and have don't have flutes too long.
For some reason I can't post links, so Google center drill and Screw machine drills and you should be good to go.
Thanks again.
The problem with this video is even most professional mechanics/technicians (by professional I mean they work at a repair shop) do not know how to properly use drill bits and can not drill the center of a bolt. If ur watching this video to learn how to do this you have a 99% chance of not drilling it properly like this guy did he made it look easy because he a professional he does it all the time, if ur gonna drill them and u have never done it before just buy the tool kit for drilling these fords so u don’t ruin the cylinder head. I also am a professional technician 20+ years and shop owner I have all kinds of different kits for drilling out and removing broken bolts every kind of extractor kits, left hand drill bits , broken tap remover tools, huge time sert kit, the snap on/bluepoint E1020 is one of my favorite kits it works great for getting a broken head bolt/stud out or anything recessed because it comes with long extractors and dies to center ur drill bit in the bore of a hole but honestly I have all this stuff and it does come in handy but most of the time I end up having to use a socket to center a drill bit because no universal kits have the correct size I need for whatever I’m doing.
When it comes to removing a regular steal broken stud or bolt from an aluminum cylinder head I weld a nut to the broken bolt/stud and they always come out every time again in this situation where the bolt/stud it made of steel or stainless steel and the cylinder head is aluminum. When a broken stud/bolt is not broken off flush so it’s inside the hole you just need to build up the weld and no matter if it’s flush or in the hole the best thing to do which I never see anyone do is use a little hand held sand blaster just a little 15 dollar one from harbor freight is fine, tape off ur exhaust ports and anywhere u don’t want the sand/media to go then blast the broken bolt/stud so u have nice clean bolt to weld to which makes all the difference in the world it really does and when u were blasting it also cleans out the threads any corrosion or dirt so when ur backing the broken bolt/stud out it will come out easy. This is by far the easiest way. I have done this for other shops that we’re gonna remove the cylinder head. So many people have doubted me saying they tried there no way and I pull out my little hand held sandblaster and people laugh then a few minutes later when it’s out they don’t laugh anymore. I had this from my one buddies shop it was one of their trucks that had been trying for 3 days they called me and asked if I had any drilling tools so they drill it straight and I said come on u can’t get it out with a welder? They said no been trying 3 full days and a few different guys it’s not gonna come out by welding I laughed and said then u guys didn’t listen to what I said to do and they said they did, I said I bet $500 I can get it out in 10 minutes or less as long as u have a hand full of the correct size nuts, good welder and air compressor they said bet. I went down there looked at it and the bolt wasn’t cleaned good I said I told u guys it has to be really clean use a dremel with a carbide bit or small sand blaster I mean they did clean it up a bit but not where it’s fresh metal so I hit with my sandblaster, build up weld because it’s kinda deep then weld the nut on, let it cool just a hair and bam it’s out. I walk over to them they were sitting with their girlfriends and they said see we told u it wasn’t gonna come out! I said oh no I came over here to get paid they all laughed and walked over there and couldn’t believe it and they paid me. I’m not telling this story to say I’m better then anyone I’m telling it because so many people say welding nuts don’t work and it’s just not true people just don’t do it properly which is either because they don’t listen like my buddies by not cleaning properly or they don’t know how to weld or a really crappy welder or not removing at the right time because too early the weld it too hot so it just breaks off or too long so the heat from welding is gone so it’s not helping remove a bolt/stud that’s stuck.
If you have a cast iron cylinder head and steel bolts it can be next to impossible to remove a broken bolt/stud if it’s rusted in there you have to get the head really hot which can cause damage to the head what I do it weld a nut on very good then I will heat the nut up 4-5 time until it’s orange and let it sit for 30 seconds between each time so the heat really works it’s way into the broken stud/bolt and if it comes out great if not ur screwed because now that I have weld on top of the stud/bolt u also heated it making it harder so it’s next to impossible to drill specially if you don’t have really high end drill bits that only a machine shop has I’m not talking about snap on drill bits I’m talking way better then that. So with cast iron heads if they are rusty it’s a good idea to drill them from the start and using something to help guide so u drill perfectly in the center.
You know they make "aircraft and stubby" bits that come very short. Also a 'tinner's" bit is a very short bit. Save cutting up good bits. Plus I always try left hand bits when drilling as often the thread will come right out without resorting to the easy outs. Take care. Doug
Great video. Thanks
For the below guy. On the left handed drill bit. I've gone that route many times with great success. Helps to hit center of bolt/stud and sometimes we make a jig just for the job. Sometimes in the case to get a very small screw out, other times broken starter bolts. Never had to resort to an extractor. I can imagine a very corroded one could be a problem. But the drill adds heat and counterclockwise load at the same time.
This guy is amazing with amazing video tutorial the extractor has blades that cuts into the bolt and screws it out awesome!
Heat works wonders...The bolts stick from oxidation, we/I use a torch all of the time in the shop to remove stuck studs, nuts, etc.
Studs can be a real pain in the butt .Thank you for the tips greatly appreciated .When I bolted the manifold on I found the two rear stud holes did not line up .So I'm going to drill out some of the holes .I noticed a couple had smaller holes.
I had zero questions at the end of that video. Thanks man.
Great techniques thanks for sharing your skills from many years experience, keep them coming!
good vid..maybe someone already said this but if you use a mechanics length left handed drill bit alot of times the stud will get caught and run itself out. I suggest cobalt drill bits they stay very sharp for a long time but snap if youre not careful. I have had those studs grab with right handed bits and run them in further.
You are the best hands down had the same upper bolt brake on my 5.4 3v all the other 16 came out perfect will do this tomorrow have propane torch and the same extractor set on hand hope it all goes well.
Just got done my F-150 manifold thanks to this video. successfully extracted 2 broken studs using this method. Thankyou FordTechMakuloco
Great to hear!
I did this job on a 2000 expediton with 50k miles only thing that worked was welding nuts on the studs every other method was a fail total waste of time
Thanks for this video. It helped me do manifolds on my v10 Excursion. Even remove a broken a stud from the block. This was a great instructional video.
Thank you!
This video is super helpful. I plan on replacing the manifolds on my 3.5 EcoBoost in the next few weeks and will be using these tips and tricks.
I' m a Chrysler tech it is very common issue on the 5.7 Hemi in Ram pick up, havent done one of those yet but guys at work usualy weld a nut onto the broken studs, theres no plenty amount of space but enough to get the welder in there. I did one set of manifolds on a 2011 Dakota with the 3.7 V6 and it was not bad.. Decent amount of space and they are using bolts instead of studs and nuts. Patience is the key in those situation. Nice Vido
+Jonathan Lessard Those bolts spin out real easy.I have removed the broken exhaust manifold bolts out of the hemi taking them out with my fingers if sticking .
I did the manifold on my '06 5.4 f-150, what a pain. wound up turning engine 30 degrees and welding studs out. There was no way to work around the coilover tower. Unichrome 1/16 rod worked awsome, haven't wasted my time drilling and tapping since.
I have one of these to do on a mountaineer right now . First I would like to say thanks for the Videos. I have been a mechanic for many many years and worked mainly on Fords . However your videos are still priceless insight into jobs that I havnt had to do yet. This helps with estimating as well as with the job itself and getting it done.
With that said . If you set out to do it that way and I set out to do it with the engine out. Are you sure you are going to beat me ? I have done motors in these things and realize that its no picnic but not horrible either. Im sure you have changed some of these as well so your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Many times in my earlier years I would do something like this thinking I was saving myself work but in the long run it was faster to just yank it and work on it out in the open.
I've been putting this off too long. My '08 explorer is getting the treatment this weekend. it SOUNDS like it's not the front, but who knows. Thanks for your videos, I'm sure they'll help
so much better than pulling the block. Thanks!
Nice work! A center drill like you would use on a lathe can be a handy bit for starting holes, they are very short and rigid, plus they are double ended incase it breaks.
hi.may ford crown vic 2003 lx is running 1 hours make loded and loss power and engine nocking.
plz help some one
@toofiq only drive it for 30 mins?
I like your astonishment at the extraction tool working. :) It was the same for me when I used one. It's like magic.
It’s not that the tool is working as much as i was glad to see the stud wasn’t seized.
Exactly! :D
I would use a dentist drill to get the drill bit started very small great for tight places. I would use heat treated brass nuts so if there is a next time it will be lot easier to remove or replace the gasket or manifold. A great video terrific job well done.
thank you for taking the time to make this, very helpful!!
Just pulled the drivers side manifold off today. Yep, two front studs are broken off in the head. I ordered all the tools you used in this video, minus the torch, and I'm praying for a good outcome. I have a small propane torch I can use if need be. I'm scared to death the extractor is gonna snap off. My cheap set of extractors have broken pretty easily.
Great Tip< The key is Great set of drill bits, new , yeah, black oxide , slow speed with some pressure, stay on the center, ( avoid drill walking) and step drill to the final size. before inserting the stud removal tool
Got to love the 05 5.4L life lol
I just did mine.Two bolts broke deep inside.Always use left handed drill bits.They saved my ass.Even after braking the easy out in the bolt.A dremel with a tungsten bit saved that..And then the left handed drill bit..
If the bolts are broken inside the head they usually come out easy. The problem ones are the ones that weren’t replaced immediately and they corrode into the head. I’m dealing with one right now. There is enough sticking out of the head but it will not come out! This was the one that was broken. I’ve put some heat to it, just about everything I can think of and nothing. Next thing is to drill in a few threads the same diameter as the bolt hole then remove the bolt below that.
Dude! you make it look so easy :) thanks for the vid.
Just another way to get this miserable job done...I have 08 ford explorer (Eddie Bauer) with the 4.6 L engine. Top stud broken off on the # 1 cylinder (front right) on the engine block. The Shock tower makes it nearly impossible to access this stud, even with a small right angle drill, ( there is only 2.5" of clearance between engine block and shock tower) I drilled a 3/4" hole (with a Lenox hole saw and extension) through the shock tower, approximately 2" down from the top, 1" from the side of the inside of tower. This gave me clear access to the broken stud. I used the extractors recommended by Tech Makuloco in his great videos along with a 6" collared hex extension and a drill. This procedure is probably is probably unorthodox, and I'm not an engineer, but I don't think it compromised the integrity of that massive shock tower drilling a 3/4" hole in it. It definitely made the job a whole lot easier. I thank Tech Makuloco for the great inspirational videos on how to conquer this job!
Do you put anti-seize on the new studs? Great video by the way!
I like to use the 1/8" double ended bit to drill my pilot hole. Those things cut like crazy and when they get dull you can turn it over and use the other end, after that, toss it and grab a new one. I work for a International dealership and have had a lot of Maxxforce 7, VT365 and DT444E exhaust manifold bolts either come in broken or break when you try to remove them. Most can be done with the engine in the vehicle, unless it's a left bank Maxxforce 7, then you can't get to them so the head has to come off; Sometimes you get lucky and the bolt isn't broke off flush with the head.
Years ago I had a GMC 366 in a Top Kick that the bit broke off in, at that point I got the "Blue wrench" and blew the broken bolt out of the head. That should never be attempted on a aluminum head, it won't end well; However on a cast head the case iron is harder than the bolt, not that you can take your time, you have to be good with a torch. Chase the threads with a bottom tap and your ready to go.
That Kroil oil is in my opinion the top of the line penetrating oil around! If you have to change your spark plugs in your f150 5.4, 4.6 and 6.8 3 valve with the three piece plug that is known for breaking off in cylinder hole and needs to be soaking to loosen the corrosion prior to removing plugs this works! FYI
That was the initial chemical solvent Ford recommended its great stuff for tricky situations- amzn.to/2dppmFu
I am just a bit curious as to why no one is using stud extractors? So many of these videos the stud is coming out so easy. With 45 years playing with cars and wanna be hot rods, never have I had it easy. I have a great selection of easy outs and stud extractors. I always try a stud extractor first then cut off or grind down for a flush stud. Your videos are great and I have used them many times.
Great video and as I said on your first video I wish i had seen both of these before starting. I had to release the engine mount to get a little twist in order to gain more clearance for the middle snapped studs. I also had to drill a small work hole in the shock tower to gain easier access. I was not happy about doing this, but it works and the hole did not compromise the tower integrity. I cleaned, primed and painted the hole so it is now an access point LOL. Still have to do the driver's side so wish me luck LOlz.
Not bashing PB put it do not soak into the seize stud that is broken, the drilling method is the only way.
I did mine and I had a guy can to my home and extract the broken stud out cost me $200.00, I will be prepared next time, will but the tools and do it myself.
Also when you pull the starter, the bolt into the transmission housing sometime will likely go to be strip.
Jack the engine on the passenger side of the oil pan (not the oil pan it will damage the pan, trust me ).
Also when get extra studs cause you will drop some and good luck trying to find it when it is inside the engine mount compartment.
For the front bottom studs thread the bolts before installing them into the cylinder wall.
The tool that helped me was 3/8 flex rachet and the Dremel tool if the front bottom bolt is seized.
Did mine seven days.
Learn a lot doing this it is frustrating but push forward it will be done.
Good luck.
it must feel like heaven to be able to extract this broken bolt so easily...
+BlastReadingSeries Yes yes it did.
I have that small adjustable wrench and I am surprised how handy it is too
I also have a tiny high grade pipe wrench that shows its value on all kinds of things including rusty brake bleeders and line fittings small but mighty~!
very informative video, getting ready to do this job on my 07 5.4l, i did luck out and found some reverse cut (left turn) drill bits at my local Oreilly Auto made by titan with the corresponding extractor, so hopefully i can avoid the broken stud going in further. great job on this
A 4.6 in a 97 f150 might be a bit tuff, luckily for me the head gaskets are needing replaced anyways, but those exhaust studs are nearly all rusted out, a few look like rivets holding the manifold on. They will definitely need heated up, but drilling with the heads off should be an easy go.
Great videos! The key here is patience and planning. One thing I found is those grabits are too large to fit into a deeply broken stud hole without damaging the aluminum. I spun the extractor body on a grinder to relieve the outside diameter. Another thought is to use some scrap fuel/brake line tubing cut offs as a centering guide for the first drill. One request, though; Do an Econoline van with the Triton manifolds. Did anybody ever mention you look like Paul Teutle Jr?
Using a reverse rotation bit works sometimes it catches enough to grab the stud and no extractor needed.
Try it on a rust belt 2004 5.4 3 valve F150 that's 20 years old and has 206,000 miles on it. I recommend 1000 degree JB weld and live with a little noise until you have to yank the motor for all the usual. Ya know, timing chains, roller rocker studs, cam phasers all of that. You do good work. These are a nightmare. I do like the trucks but cmon Ford!
Not sure if you mentioned this but i would always use a brand new bit and buy two in case one breaks.
I have a question. I did your weld technique and was very successful. Cleaned everything and used new studs and nuts. Also used new manifolds and gaskets. Was so happy to fix it all. Less than 6 months later rear ports are leaking horrible again. Should I retorx the manifold bolts or take all back off and try a different gasket? Of which brand gasket do you prefer. Thanks for your time and reply
Great videos, I have to commend you for having so much patience for working on these shitty jobs and not getting frustrated. I've been a mechanic for 30 years, 10 years with Ford, I was so pro Ford but I'm DONE , time to move on to a better quality product, I see the same issues year after year with the Ford's, exhaust manifolds, blend doors and motors etc etc, time to trade in the F150.
I agree and I have been a Ford guy my entire life. I have worked on every vehicle I own myself and this line of trucks (from 97 onwards) and the never-addressed-issues OVER and OVER again have led me to feel the same way. The excessive amount of hours spent fixing things that should have been corrected by Ford years ago would have went a very long way towards customizing any other vehicle or putting $ in the bank. Not to mention the ridiculous cost of parts for these engines. Broken studs, 160K+ mileage, gasket leaks. So I figure we'll do the timing belt, gasket kit and fix the studs. LOL....prices are stupid high and in the end I would still have a high mileage engine. The Cure?...I bought a 2002 (VIN code L) engine with less than 70K to replace the high mileage engine for the cost of a full gasket set and timing belt/gear set. That is BS. When buying a lower milaege engine becomes a more viable cure for doing minor repairs, it's time to move my loyalty elsewhere.
They certainly screwed the pooch this time!!!!
Great info! Definitely worth every penny on good tools at that point
great video. You make it look so simple. Your experience definitely shows. Thanks.
My coworkers- all of them diesel mechanics that do engine work all day, and one of them a former Ford Master Technician are trying to talk me out of taking on this job on my 03'. Their concern is me cracking/damaging the cylinder head- how do I avoid damaging the head while removing the studs? They keep telling me I need to use a wire welder and and weld a nut to remove the stud as being "The sure" way of getting a stud out. Your method seems equally effective for those of us who don't have welders or welding skills......but just curious how to mitigate the rist of cracking the head or causing damage?
Started mine today. After 5 1/2 hrs got the manifold out....Now for the fun bit!
+fuzzy19111 Ouch!
You are just a Doctor when it comes to mechanic work!
On a 2004 Crown Victoria, is there enough clearance to pull the manifolds off while the engine is in the car?
I've got the same 1/4 inch Craftsman ratchet........love that thing!
what about first running the vehicle to warm up the exhaust studs? wouldnt this help to get the studs out?
Great Video! I will give you a tip that I recently used on a BMW X5 that broke a tensioner bolt when the belt came off and grabbed it. Once you break it loose with the extractor tool, you can use a left hand drill bit to spin it out provided your drill has reverse rotation. Million times quicker and easier than 1/8th or 1/4 turns with a wrench.
You sir are the real MVP
After reading your liability statement have you also considered opening your own shop taking one or more vehicles per month per some type of award raffle or automotive question and answer .. what is this piece type event or win a trip to your shop… guys love that stuff.
I did open my own shop about 7 years ago.
My dad has a 1998 ford f-150 4.6 v8, I checked the check in engine light it turns out that EGR is clogged up but when a head bolt broke off due to years of heat and corrosion can you ever get the chance to assist me at any way that's why I watch this video.
Thanks buddy. I will be doing this tomorrow
+WOOODYII2 oh boy good luck!
Lol,Thanks. Im doing it on a 2000 expedition 5.4
WOOODYII2 well how did it turn out
well, 6 of the 8 nuts were rusted off so I had to weld nuts to them and they came out fine. the other 2 had to be drilled and tapped. I did try an easy out but it would not work. Also ended up using a cutting torch to cut out the manifold, Made the job much esier.
Thinking about giving this a go on my 08 f150. I can tell before even starting that 2 of my studs are broken the front upward studs. If I fail at this drill and extract technique but don't damage the threads could I use the weld technique as a backup plan or would I be screwed at that point?
Why do you think the bolt is cracking or broken in the first place. Great videos thanks for all your information
Omg. I just screwed this job up! Drilled crooked. Is there enough meat in this head to oversized hole to 10mm and put in a helicoil or time sert?
What do you call KNOWLEDGEABLE and SUBSTANTIAL the answer is FordTechMakuloco
Tutorial brilliant video great 👍thank you very much helpful information. Take care and have a great day FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Would you feel comfortable using the weld-a-nut on method that you use in another of your videos? If so, what about the electrical system of the vehicle? Could the Welder cause damage to the ECM or such? Great Videos as always! Clay
i feel your pain, just did one of these today.
He is. The Chosen One 😊😊
I love that movie. Kung Pow: Enter The Fist
I usually crank the welder up to a high setting and weld a nut to the broken stud, can cause way to much damage with a "walking" drill bit. Many exhaust manifolds done this way. If the broken stud is below the surface, build up with weld then weld nut on and attempt to remove.
Finally someone who knows how to do exhaust manifolds...
i have two on the same port. im currently installing a full exhaust system on 2003 crown vic and on the drivers side have two broken bolts.
PBWillyWonka I have to deal with mine soon. Only 1 is broken
Yeah. Did all that. Can i get a video on pulling the head?
in my experience with the ford product line on exhaust studs if they don't come out easy by hand only , stop and just cut the nut off or the stud near flush to the manifold and get the manifold out of the way . then you still have something to work with , vise grips and lots of heat and just wiggle till it moves . there is very little room to work on the truck line and less on the car line .... make sure you tread chase all the holes and antisieze the bolts
also if room is an issue you can remove the mount nuts and jack the engine up and block it this will give better angle on some of the holes behind the shock mount
Great Video! Really helpful information. Thank You Brian!
Can you do the same thing with a water pump Bolt it's like the stud of the boat from God sticking out timing housing
I loved this video Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom. I have a 1998 5.4L expedition 4x4 that seems to be a little different that the f150 shown in the video... looking at my truck it looks like I may have to take the A/C compressor out of the way to make room in order to get to the studs. Is that correct? Can it be unbolt it without losing the charge? Is there anything different that I would have to be aware of.. Oh that's the right side manifold.. Thank you..
While trying to remove my transmission pan, the first corner head spun off. My question is, where do you apply the heat to help extract the bolt? On the side of the tranny case, near the bolt path up thru? 8mm heads on the pan bolts, very small.
Your not kidding on working on those ford explorer's I hate how they designed the exhaust header I threw a sledgehammer at my helper when he busted off the heads, he's lucky I didn't drop an engine on him.
Wow!
Brian are the replacement studs going to break also ? Are have they been updated. I watched both videos and noticed that you said the new studs were coated or stainless I believe.
It's 2 years + since this nice repair. Do you use ant compound on the bolts that you use to reinstall the header?
I’m glad my manifolds aren’t leaking😂
so,those came off by hand?!
Thanks so much for your videos on this job! I've been reluctant to start since I wasn't sure how to proceed. My only quotes from shops in my area were "those aren't fun, I'll have to set aside a couple days labor and I can't tell you how much it will cost" or something along those lines. I think I'll go for it. I've fixed everything on this truck, why not this? Thanks!
+Chad Hanson Not fun indeed just take your time and have the tools on hand. I also have a video on exhaust manifold removal.
+FordTechMakuloco I just finished watching that video! I'm putting together a large Amazon order. Lol
+FordTechMakuloco I just saw that you're probably not very far from me. I'm south of the Rockford area. If I have problems, I'll just tow it to you...
+Chad Hanson Nice!
Thanks man. Awesome vids you have. I am going to try that trick on the broken flush glow plug on my 6.5
great video,I think im gonna do a timing chain on my explorer 4.0l , soon,it is rattling at cold start,but it is quiet once the oil pressure is up,and I will change the head gasket too
+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas I sold my sport track cause the maintenance manual says to replace the timing chain guides every 60k miles....On the Canadian performance engines, thats 3 sets...I've got 185k miles on my 97 GMC 350 and still running strong !
+David Dickert mine has 164000,the truck still going strong but the rattling is only when it is cold until it get oil pressure
Something else I noticed is the body mounts faiing. They made the " soft " in an effort for ride comfort. That can get just as expensive. That rattle upon startup could also be rod bearings failing untill enough oil pressure builds up ,thus filling the wear area...
The noise is extacly where the timing chain is one in the back ,one in the front
Hi can you help me figure out how to extract a broken pipe stub from inside the port of an air shutoff valve? Nothing is sticking out that can be grabbed or tapped to change its shape. And I don't want to do anything that would get foreign objects in the air system. There are no threads. Thanks
what about rotted off flange bolts while manifold still on in a 2001 grand marquis,thanks,i will check all videos to see anytips
Slick moves. Thanks for the tips.
May I ask what the name of the extractor kit is?