Logan Walter Wow. Just had this happen on a 2000 explorer with a 5.0 this truck had 200k and the original plugs, of corse I got all but one. I went to O’reiley’s and bought the exact same extractor. Soaked it in pb blaster overnight spraying every few hour of so. My tool slipped three times by the fourth time I hammered it on as much as I thought would be ok. And wouldn’t you know with a little elbow grease it finally came out. Thank you for this video. Saved my a few $$$
What I did was use the square bolt extractor (as you have) but I made a mixture of transmission oil and Varsol (or any paint thinner) but instead of spraying the area with the Refrigerant to cool it after heating the area with the oxy/acetylene torch I put the bolt extractor in the freezer for a few hours before using it. Let it sit for about a minute or 2 before extracting. The cold temperature transfers into the broken spark plug causing it to shrink enough to extract it!
Fantastic!! Worked wonderful today on my uncle's plow truck 3 of the 8 broke off swapping out plugs.6 hours of pretty intense labor saved a couple of thousand dollars...thanks man!!
Wow, best video so far on how to get frozen plugs out! You have more patience and determination than most mechanics. A long process, but in the end you saved a ton of time and money!
Just wanted to comment on your video. I have a 1996 f250 and the same problem happened to me. I figured I would check some videos to see what other people have done in the past. So far I have to say your advice about heating.... and walk away..... heat it and spray with aerokroyl.....and walk away was some of the best advice. I live remotely and had to get my brother to bring his back pack oxy/acetylene torch’s as my MPs gas would budge it. I watch a video a Mexican fellow posted where he made an easy out from a bolt which in my opinion is far superior to hardened easy outs which are brittle and break easily. Between learning patience and the awesome idea the Mexican mechanic had using a bolt which is tempered not just hardened without being drawn back I am happy to say after a couple of days of heating, spraying cooling etc the grade eight bolt tapered to a square was very successful, Thanks for posting, patience is learned and my dad used to always tell me when I was a kid.... you better learn to be patient, It payed off and happily lowing my ice road again, I will never put faith in hardened easy outs after breaking one years ago,
You sir are a lifesaver may God bless you everyday of your life!! I was panicking about the debris inside the cylinder and took the engine apart before hand but the rest of the info saved me time and innovation lol
O'Reillys carries( or carried) an expanding spark plug "tap". I used it to clean buggered threads on my old Datsun PU. Just back it off to min.size, put a good gob of grease on it to catch any shavings, insert into the spark plug hole and then GENTLY expand it until it just starts to grip the threads. Then run it out with your fingers, clean off the grease, re-grease & repeat until the threads are cleaned up. I never got any metallic particles into the engine with this method. The tool cost about $50.00. Sure beat the cost of a replacement head, or an iffy PITA Helicoil (tm) job. No having to remove the head too, especially since this was a 4 cyl. with 8 plugs. Whole job took under 15 minutes. Slapped some anti-seize on the new plug and put 50K miles on the engine and it was running great when I sold the truck. The nice thing about the tool is it works on any size spark plug hole that the threads match on.
Before chiseling out porcelain, try and see it cylinder pressure will push it out. Broke my spark plug due to my stupidity, tried to remove by tightening. Broke in the same place as you did (14 explorer). Turned on the engine and porcelain bew out from the tread in one piece. Now will need to go buy some extractors.
Hi! Great video! Same thing just happened on my 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid w/ 265K Miles. Driving along in the city of Boston Friday night, and suddenly it started running really rough. I hobbled to a safe place to park, and ran a test on the FIXD device & App. Got a code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. Had the car towed home as to avoid any further damage. Saturday morning, I picked up new plugs, ignition coils, & plenum gaskets. In the afternoon, I started taking the engine apart (which presented some of its own challenges), then got to the spark plugs... They were ALL frozen; Some more than others. Cylinder #3 came out the easiest, then #2, then #4. I broke the spark plug off in cylinder #6. Cylinders number 1 & 5 still have not come out. In New England, it's like Seattle. It rains almost every day. So with rain in the forecast again, I may wait another day (or two) to get back at it. UA-cam University to the rescue one more time!!!
After its out it is highly recommend to take a scope camera and look down in the cylinder to make sure you remove ALL parts of spark plug out. It is crucial you make sure its all out of there using just a vacuum and a magnet is not the best advice. You will blow your motor or at the very minimum you will destroy your cylinder walls which intern will inevitably blow your motor by making it loose compression.
That’s a wonderful thing to see. I have a similar problem on a ‘93 ford econoline. My issue is the last plug on the passenger side has a weird angle and no space to fit tools in. Still working on it.
LOL...same thing happened on my 1990 F250 off road snow plowing vehicle...I used my torch set to "persuade" the plugs to come out....I know the feeling....Great video and thanks for posting.
Great video. Especially that you show what didn't work as well. I have a broken spark plug. Instead of using the extractor (it forces the plug to the engine) I want to cut a thread left way into the plug and use a left way screw to turn it out. And of course use much penetrating oil as well.
Love your work. Have tried to use screw type extractors myself - crap. Ended up shearing off and having to get the bloody extractor spark eroded out as well as the bolt. I have now started a project on a GS1000 Suzuki that has stood for over 20 years. Have sheared the two inner plugs. Trouble is that the head is aluminium. I am going to have to strip the head off anyway as having looked in the bore I think the barrels will need honing due to rust. Will definitely use the extractors you recommend. Will probably try putting the head in the oven first before using oxy/propane torch approach (far to easy to melt the head itself). Hopefully the differential expansion rates Ally and Steel should work in my favour but we'll see.
I bought CRC Freeze Off from the hometown auto parts. I used my acetylene torch to get the broken plug hot, then i waited 30 seconds or so and sprayed tje freeze off on it for 20 seconds. I then put the fluted ez out onto the broken plug. It broke loose and came right out. I tried just freezing it first with no luck. This works!
Thanks for the info I just had a spark plug break on my 91 f150 unfortunately it was the back right plug next to the firewall so im hoping I have enough room to try, not looking forward to the alternative
I haven't tried it yet but I can honestly say you are halirous and damn good rigging job with the vacuum and all. I do alot of that myself. Thanks for the tips. Mike from Philly
I would suggest using a small long compressed air nozzle inserted deep into the cylinder to blow out the cylinder before turning over the engine. I would do each process several times. Magnetic, vacuum and compressed air. If by some freak chance you have metal shavings caught on the piston and cylinder wall you are going to cause damage. Also suggest some anti-seize on the metal taper and threads of the new plug.
A quick lick of Never Seize on the threads and chamfer along with properly torquing the plugs will prevent them from breaking in the future. In many cases the plugs are overtightened and the nut cracks on the shell. It begins to rust and the rest is history.
you're a genius. I just got the problem. One spark plug was broken, so I'm trying to get it out. Question is how you did you get all the ceramic out and the core electrode out?
The sparkplug I have is sized and not broken ....yet? I don't want to use any force at this point. Do you recommend the penetration oil ? Do I spray inside the hole and let it soak/absorb for a few hours? How many times I have to do it before I can try to unscrew it again ? Thank you 👌
Good video. I have a 99 f250sd with a 5.4 and had someone change my plugs about a year ago and they came out, didn't break, didn't bring threads out either. I was lucky and this guy is good too. Yea some of us have older trucks and will prolly have one for a while yet. haha
I have a 2005 Explorer with a broken plug. This method looks like the best option I have found so far. Question I have is on breaking up the porcelain that is still in the bottom half of the plug. You just used a chisel to break that up, while your vacuum was in the well also? And hopefully the vacuum catches the electrode if that breaks free?
+kevin bills Yes, that's essentially what I did. If you have a Triton engine, there's a special tool that's supposed to work on broken plugs. I've never used it, but it may be worth a shot. amzn.to/2vhfPdd
I know I’m late to the party… but here I am with porcelain snapped just like this… I ended up disconnecting the coil pack and cranked the engine with a towel covering the plug hole. The porcelain came right out. Wear safety glasses and close the hood… use a towel to catch it… it flew out crazy! Now to get the rest of the metal out…update: went to oreillys and got the square extractor and tapped it in with the hammer… she grabbed and boom… she’s out!
@@Deadbuck73 I tried that and it did not work. my mechanic had a tool nade that he was able to chisel out the plug with a hammer drill. took a few hours but it came out and did not require an engine pull which was the alternative.
Tough Job, to get out those mothers out but, I saved big money today . I just fix one that was frozen & cross thread . Did a Re-thread plus new insert with new threads and the hold complete job. Just waiting 24 hrs for the lock-thread paste to dry up...... Thanks for the video.
I broke a plug the same way trying to remove it in my F 150. I guess I need to get one of those extractors from O’ Reilly. If I get that one out I’m taking it to a mechanic to do the other five, and I’m gonna warn them that they’re in there really good.
Damn. Went to change the plugs on my early 90's Ford a few months ago and had a hell of a time getting them out. Sure am glad this didn't happen. Never had something like that happen and have been changing plugs for a long time. A Ford issue?
I'm having a similar problem where the porcelain is still stuck and is making it difficult. I've tried cranking the engine but haven't been successful. How long do you have to crank the engine for the porcelain to come out?
I hate those washerless sparkplugs Mercedes Benz used them also in aluminium heads. It might help to let the engine run hot. But I prefer loosen and tighten them every oilchange. No problems anymore.
Hi Guy in WY. I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird with a 5.0 engine. On the driver's side, I removed the first plug- took a little elbow grease but it came out. The second plug broke under the oil dipstick bracket...the nut actually broke off the threads. Luckily a guy extracted it for me for only thirty dollars. I lost confidence in removing the rest. I heard about the rocking method (loosen tighten, loosen tighten) an eighth of an inch at a time and then squirt some carb cleaner it and let it soak. Shops want 130 for removal of remaining plugs and that's a bit much as I'm a retired 67-year-old man. I still want to try to remove 'em on my own. Any advice would be appreciated.
And on that note, any thoughts I had on suddenly doing a tune-up in my truck came to an abrupt halt. I definitely don't want that happening to me... How old were those plugs?
never thought about using r 134. I have used the propane torch trick and the thing that looks a lot like propane that uses oxygen and mapp gas. Thesre are actually the same as the classic gas welding/cutting torch scaled down. Mapp gas is actually acetylene with a stabilizer added to it. These will actually MELT steel so if all you want to do is heat things up BE DAMN CAREFUL. Beats the hell out of propane in many cases. :) On the good side --- You KNOW the threads in the block are good...
How do you verify what size easy out to use. Working with a 5/8 Champion 3071 Soaking now for 4 days. Dry Ice seems appropriate. Plug snapped on the line. We’re installed December 2017. No excuse!
I have the straight 6 on the 04 Envoy and it was hard to get the spark plug out and I finally got it but broke the white part off and some of the pieces we left in the hole which I hope I got all them out. But after getting the new plug in I can't get the sparkplug socket out. Any ideas?
I had a plug break the same way. What I did was start the car for less than 10 seconds. The core of the plug was pushed right out. Which I find to be the biggest issue to deal with. From there I used an extractor to remove the rest of the plug.
So, what you're saying is get someone else to change the plugs. :) I was already told that to change my plugs in my truck will cost me 800 dollars because they might break. I'm thinking I might try it myself first and if I have to I'll buy the tool they made for plugs that break if any do break. Not looking forward to it. Glad you got yours out.
I'd definitely try it at home first. If I had to pay a shop to do what I did, it would've been several hundred dollars I'm sure. If you can, start spraying yours with penetrating oil a few days before you're ready to change the plugs. The heat cycles from driving it should help the oil work it's way in.
+Anthony Abelardo I stayed with my typical cutting settings, 8 psi acetylene and 60 psi oxygen. I adjusted them to a neutral flame just like you would use to cut with but you could back down the oxygen a bit and it would be less likely to start melting.
great video... hope i dont have to go through the same issue but im about to find out. im gonna spray kroil a on them and let the daily driving work it in just like you said. thanks. really appreciate your video.
I wound up with a 1994 chevy S10.the plugs are frozen in place. Any good ideas i can do myself ? Im 71 years old so crawling on the ground is not an option. Can you help me ? It is a 4 cylinder.
R134a has a boiling point of -15* and it is also illegal to vent into the atmosphere so I don’t recommend using refrigerant for this but you can use the propane the same way or possibly an air duster upside down would be better for your wallet and the environment
So I have a 2002 dodge, and the spark plug broke inside the head, where it broke you can't get a tool on it, its the 8th spark plug. There is no porcelain in side, the threaded part is the only part stuck inside the head will jb weld and a bolt work, or do I need to take the head off, its a 4.7l byw
Got a 97 ford expedition 4.6l engine and found 2 spark plugs beyond stripped around the hex nut and was thinkin should i buy the extracter and break the porcelain piece first and use extractor please help
If the hex nut portion of the spark plug is rounded off so a socket won't grab it, I would try an use an external; extractor socket like one of these: amzn.to/2ymSsRo
I have a 92 F150 4 X 4 and had a problem getting the old plugs out when I went to change them. So that's at least 5 years Ford has been letting this problem slide. I got the plugs changed but now am thinking I'd better pull them again and put some anti-seize on them. Not a big Ford fan and have not done much work on them. So when I bought the new plugs I noticed they didn't have the washer and asked the parts guy about it. He said that's they way those plugs are. That it sounds like is the issue. Think of all the problems and work that faulty design has caused. People all over the world struggling to get their damn spark plugs out. Hours of work when it should be a half hour job.
The vacuum doesn't work I tried it I used air to blow it out and had to use a camera and a noose to get the end of the plug out of the cylinder then turn the motor over 5 to 6 times then use air again then turned the motor over again then put a new spark plug in it then started the motor let it run for 5 minutes then changed the oil. It was on a 1996 ford f250 with the 7.5
Great great video but it's hard to put a torch on a 2007 GMC envoy what I did I got a number 6 extractor and a half inch long extension and a crescent wrench and PB blast and permission from the customer to replace the head to cover my ass and Give it a good turn and "POP" it came off.
Have you learned to use anti seize are your spark plugs yet on your exhaust manifolds. Save you a lot of time anything that's aluminum or steel that gets hot. And you expect it to come out someday
On may 19 2017 i started watching this and walked away. Tried everything...... atf, tabasco sauce, coca cola, hot piss, cow farts in a bottle even VOODOO! Today i'll continue watching
@@alexg8460 I went to autozone and bought like a reverse thread it ment to take out stripped bolts it worked you just gotta be patient when taking it out
Head doesn't get very hot , plug has very little mass and will turn orange very fast . While the head has more mass and will absorb and dissipate heat. It is this differential in temperatures that breaks the rust bond, as the plug will have more thermal expansion.
Not this refrigerant it causes global warming though the old stuff they put in cars R12 destroyed the OZone the R134a causes global warming by blocking the suns rays from bouncing back out of the atmosphere
Never use a torch on this fix it mess a piston valve or head up big time also cauch a fire on any gas leak from injectors. Noooo I other ways remove pb blaster works too
Logan Walter
Wow. Just had this happen on a 2000 explorer with a 5.0 this truck had 200k and the original plugs, of corse I got all but one. I went to O’reiley’s and bought the exact same extractor. Soaked it in pb blaster overnight spraying every few hour of so. My tool slipped three times by the fourth time I hammered it on as much as I thought would be ok. And wouldn’t you know with a little elbow grease it finally came out. Thank you for this video. Saved my a few $$$
What I did was use the square bolt extractor (as you have) but I made a mixture of transmission oil and Varsol (or any paint thinner) but instead of spraying the area with the Refrigerant to cool it after heating the area with the oxy/acetylene torch I put the bolt extractor in the freezer for a few hours before using it. Let it sit for about a minute or 2 before extracting. The cold temperature transfers into the broken spark plug causing it to shrink enough to extract it!
This is smart,thanks for sharing
Fantastic!! Worked wonderful today on my uncle's plow truck 3 of the 8 broke off swapping out plugs.6 hours of pretty intense labor saved a couple of thousand dollars...thanks man!!
Wow, best video so far on how to get frozen plugs out! You have more patience and determination than most mechanics. A long process, but in the end you saved a ton of time and money!
You just saved me. I have a race in 2 days and had a plug break. Used your video and just got it out. Thank you
Just wanted to comment on your video. I have a 1996 f250 and the same problem happened to me. I figured I would check some videos to see what other people have done in the past. So far I have to say your advice about heating.... and walk away..... heat it and spray with aerokroyl.....and walk away was some of the best advice. I live remotely and had to get my brother to bring his back pack oxy/acetylene torch’s as my MPs gas would budge it. I watch a video a Mexican fellow posted where he made an easy out from a bolt which in my opinion is far superior to hardened easy outs which are brittle and break easily. Between learning patience and the awesome idea the Mexican mechanic had using a bolt which is tempered not just hardened without being drawn back I am happy to say after a couple of days of heating, spraying cooling etc the grade eight bolt tapered to a square was very successful,
Thanks for posting, patience is learned and my dad used to always tell me when I was a kid.... you better learn to be patient,
It payed off and happily lowing my ice road again,
I will never put faith in hardened easy outs after breaking one years ago,
So, where is the Mexican dudes' video?
You sir are a lifesaver may God bless you everyday of your life!! I was panicking about the debris inside the cylinder and took the engine apart before hand but the rest of the info saved me time and innovation lol
Glad it helped!
O'Reillys carries( or carried) an expanding spark plug "tap". I used it to clean buggered threads on my old Datsun PU. Just back it off to min.size, put a good gob of grease on it to catch any shavings, insert into the spark plug hole and then GENTLY expand it until it just starts to grip the threads. Then run it out with your fingers, clean off the grease, re-grease & repeat until the threads are cleaned up. I never got any metallic particles into the engine with this method. The tool cost about $50.00. Sure beat the cost of a replacement head, or an iffy PITA Helicoil (tm) job. No having to remove the head too, especially since this was a 4 cyl. with 8 plugs. Whole job took under 15 minutes. Slapped some anti-seize on the new plug and put 50K miles on the engine and it was running great when I sold the truck. The nice thing about the tool is it works on any size spark plug hole that the threads match on.
Before chiseling out porcelain, try and see it cylinder pressure will push it out.
Broke my spark plug due to my stupidity, tried to remove by tightening. Broke in the same place as you did (14 explorer). Turned on the engine and porcelain bew out from the tread in one piece.
Now will need to go buy some extractors.
Hi! Great video! Same thing just happened on my 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid w/ 265K Miles. Driving along in the city of Boston Friday night, and suddenly it started running really rough. I hobbled to a safe place to park, and ran a test on the FIXD device & App. Got a code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. Had the car towed home as to avoid any further damage. Saturday morning, I picked up new plugs, ignition coils, & plenum gaskets. In the afternoon, I started taking the engine apart (which presented some of its own challenges), then got to the spark plugs... They were ALL frozen; Some more than others.
Cylinder #3 came out the easiest, then #2, then #4. I broke the spark plug off in cylinder #6. Cylinders number 1 & 5 still have not come out. In New England, it's like Seattle. It rains almost every day. So with rain in the forecast again, I may wait another day (or two) to get back at it. UA-cam University to the rescue one more time!!!
After its out it is highly recommend to take a scope camera and look down in the cylinder to make sure you remove ALL parts of spark plug out. It is crucial you make sure its all out of there using just a vacuum and a magnet is not the best advice. You will blow your motor or at the very minimum you will destroy your cylinder walls which intern will inevitably blow your motor by making it loose compression.
That’s a wonderful thing to see. I have a similar problem on a ‘93 ford econoline. My issue is the last plug on the passenger side has a weird angle and no space to fit tools in. Still working on it.
LOL...same thing happened on my 1990 F250 off road snow plowing vehicle...I used my torch set to "persuade" the plugs to come out....I know the feeling....Great video and thanks for posting.
Great video. Especially that you show what didn't work as well. I have a broken spark plug. Instead of using the extractor (it forces the plug to the engine) I want to cut a thread left way into the plug and use a left way screw to turn it out. And of course use much penetrating oil as well.
Thanks for showing how you had success and details what didn't work too with this headache problem.
Love your work. Have tried to use screw type extractors myself - crap. Ended up shearing off and having to get the bloody extractor spark eroded out as well as the bolt. I have now started a project on a GS1000 Suzuki that has stood for over 20 years. Have sheared the two inner plugs. Trouble is that the head is aluminium. I am going to have to strip the head off anyway as having looked in the bore I think the barrels will need honing due to rust. Will definitely use the extractors you recommend. Will probably try putting the head in the oven first before using oxy/propane torch approach (far to easy to melt the head itself). Hopefully the differential expansion rates Ally and Steel should work in my favour but we'll see.
after cleaning hole squirt some diesel into cylinder and turn over that will help blow porcelain out other wise you well covered it
You've just saved my sanity! Thanx from Lancashire!
Watched your video and it pointed me in the right direction...extractor worked like a champ!
I bought CRC Freeze Off from the hometown auto parts. I used my acetylene torch to get the broken plug hot, then i waited 30 seconds or so and sprayed tje freeze off on it for 20 seconds. I then put the fluted ez out onto the broken plug. It broke loose and came right out. I tried just freezing it first with no luck. This works!
Thanks for the info I just had a spark plug break on my 91 f150 unfortunately it was the back right plug next to the firewall so im hoping I have enough room to try, not looking forward to the alternative
I haven't tried it yet but I can honestly say you are halirous and damn good rigging job with the vacuum and all. I do alot of that myself. Thanks for the tips. Mike from Philly
I would suggest using a small long compressed air nozzle inserted deep into the cylinder to blow out the cylinder before turning over the engine. I would do each process several times. Magnetic, vacuum and compressed air. If by some freak chance you have metal shavings caught on the piston and cylinder wall you are going to cause damage.
Also suggest some anti-seize on the metal taper and threads of the new plug.
All good ideas.
A quick lick of Never Seize on the threads and chamfer along with properly torquing the plugs will prevent them from breaking in the future. In many cases the plugs are overtightened and the nut cracks on the shell. It begins to rust and the rest is history.
you're a genius. I just got the problem. One spark plug was broken, so I'm trying to get it out. Question is how you did you get all the ceramic out and the core electrode out?
The sparkplug I have is sized and not broken ....yet? I don't want to use any force at this point. Do you recommend the penetration oil ? Do I spray inside the hole and let it soak/absorb for a few hours? How many times I have to do it before I can try to unscrew it again ?
Thank you 👌
I've got to do this on an old tractor, and the tips you showed will come in handy. Thank you!
Thank you. You saved me many hours and curse words.
You got the sunny beach out! I haven't been so lucky. Still working on 2 broken plugs.
How did it go?
How did it go ?
A fantastic video and I wish that this had been available when I had a similar plug problem some time ago.
Keep up the cracking work!
Good video. I have a 99 f250sd with a 5.4 and had someone change my plugs about a year ago and they came out, didn't break, didn't bring threads out either. I was lucky and this guy is good too. Yea some of us have older trucks and will prolly have one for a while yet. haha
I have a 2005 Explorer with a broken plug. This method looks like the best option I have found so far. Question I have is on breaking up the porcelain that is still in the bottom half of the plug. You just used a chisel to break that up, while your vacuum was in the well also? And hopefully the vacuum catches the electrode if that breaks free?
+kevin bills Yes, that's essentially what I did. If you have a Triton engine, there's a special tool that's supposed to work on broken plugs. I've never used it, but it may be worth a shot.
amzn.to/2vhfPdd
lisle tool 65700
I know I’m late to the party… but here I am with porcelain snapped just like this… I ended up disconnecting the coil pack and cranked the engine with a towel covering the plug hole. The porcelain came right out. Wear safety glasses and close the hood… use a towel to catch it… it flew out crazy! Now to get the rest of the metal out…update: went to oreillys and got the square extractor and tapped it in with the hammer… she grabbed and boom… she’s out!
@@Deadbuck73 I tried that and it did not work. my mechanic had a tool nade that he was able to chisel out the plug with a hammer drill. took a few hours but it came out and did not require an engine pull which was the alternative.
@@kevinbills1 I guess I got lucky but my mechanic told me about turning it over to get the porcelain out so it won’t end up in the cylinder…
Great advice. Thank you! Boat’s been sitting for 3 years because of a seized spark plug. Wish me luck!
Tough Job, to get out those mothers out but, I saved big money today . I just fix one that was frozen & cross thread . Did a Re-thread plus new insert
with new threads and the hold complete job. Just waiting 24 hrs for the lock-thread paste to dry up...... Thanks for the video.
Glad you were able to fix it!
Thank you! I didn't have the right size spark plug socket. Now I feel dumb for not thinking of this😂
Great video I hade the 2 same plugs break on my 97 f350 as well good to know I’m not the only one.. will have to give this method a shot tomorrow!
Worked awesome!!
I'm having very good success with left-handed drill bits to extract broken bolts. Not sure if they would help here.
Ha,..I love Kroil. Not only is it a fantastic penetrating oil, but it smells good too!😂🤣😂🤣.
Facts lol
GOOD VIDEO, ONE OF THE FEW ON U-TUBE THAT ACTUALLY MAKES SENSE ! THANKS !
+Gary Byers thank you! That's a huge compliment.
I broke a plug the same way trying to remove it in my F 150. I guess I need to get one of those extractors from O’ Reilly. If I get that one out I’m taking it to a mechanic to do the other five, and I’m gonna warn them that they’re in there really good.
Damn. Went to change the plugs on my early 90's Ford a few months ago and had a hell of a time getting them out. Sure am glad this didn't happen. Never had something like that happen and have been changing plugs for a long time. A Ford issue?
This truck plowed commercially for a long time and had some corrosion from that.
Very helpful video. Sir tanks foe share it.
What brand is the spark plugs ???
Good thinking 🤔, any thing is better than pulling heads
great video - honesty - good details - showed extensive know how .......
One thing I found if the nut on the plug brakes off you can just crank over and the motor and the compression will blow the center out.
I'm having a similar problem where the porcelain is still stuck and is making it difficult. I've tried cranking the engine but haven't been successful. How long do you have to crank the engine for the porcelain to come out?
The walk through was educational. That hot to cold method is a nice idea.
I hate those washerless sparkplugs Mercedes Benz used them also in aluminium heads. It might help to let the engine run hot. But I prefer loosen and tighten them every oilchange. No problems anymore.
+Willem Streutgers not a bad idea.
for that effort id change them lol but that's coming from someone with a obvious broken off plug stuck in there head
great idea of the Temperature change on the metal of from Hot to Cold then Penetrating oil.
Great video man!!! That worked great on the plug that broke on a Kawasaki 4 wheeler I am rebuilding
use the penetrating oil before you try to remove
Could’ve used this advice before I broke my spark plug
Yes and three days before plus spray it every day 4/6 times
Hi Guy in WY. I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird with a 5.0 engine. On the driver's side, I removed the first plug- took a little elbow grease but it came out. The second plug broke under the oil dipstick bracket...the nut actually broke off the threads. Luckily a guy extracted it for me for only thirty dollars. I lost confidence in removing the rest. I heard about the rocking method (loosen tighten, loosen tighten) an eighth of an inch at a time and then squirt some carb cleaner it and let it soak. Shops want 130 for removal of remaining plugs and that's a bit much as I'm a retired 67-year-old man. I still want to try to remove 'em on my own. Any advice would be appreciated.
And on that note, any thoughts I had on suddenly doing a tune-up in my truck came to an abrupt halt.
I definitely don't want that happening to me...
How old were those plugs?
😂😂
This was a fantastic video with lots of good techniques.
never thought about using r 134. I have used the propane torch trick and the thing that looks a lot like propane that uses oxygen and mapp gas. Thesre are actually the same as the classic gas welding/cutting torch scaled down. Mapp gas is actually acetylene with a stabilizer added to it. These will actually MELT steel so if all you want to do is heat things up BE DAMN CAREFUL. Beats the hell out of propane in many cases. :) On the good side --- You KNOW the threads in the block are good...
do not do the r134 thing 1 it is ageist the law 2 it is toxic
How do you verify what size easy out to use. Working with a 5/8 Champion 3071
Soaking now for 4 days.
Dry Ice seems appropriate.
Plug snapped on the line. We’re installed December 2017. No excuse!
I have the straight 6 on the 04 Envoy and it was hard to get the spark plug out and I finally got it but broke the white part off and some of the pieces we left in the hole which I hope I got all them out. But after getting the new plug in I can't get the sparkplug socket out. Any ideas?
I had a plug break the same way. What I did was start the car for less than 10 seconds. The core of the plug was pushed right out. Which I find to be the biggest issue to deal with. From there I used an extractor to remove the rest of the plug.
You had gave me a great great video with a great idea thank you very much for sharing ur ideas. God bless you.
You have a vacuum, but on the street can you use a magnetic tool to pick out any porcelain deposits?
I don't think the magnetic 🧲 will take out the porcelain that is in the cylinder since it ain't magnetic
So, what you're saying is get someone else to change the plugs. :) I was already told that to change my plugs in my truck will cost me 800 dollars because they might break. I'm thinking I might try it myself first and if I have to I'll buy the tool they made for plugs that break if any do break. Not looking forward to it. Glad you got yours out.
I'd definitely try it at home first. If I had to pay a shop to do what I did, it would've been several hundred dollars I'm sure. If you can, start spraying yours with penetrating oil a few days before you're ready to change the plugs. The heat cycles from driving it should help the oil work it's way in.
Good idea. I was also told to make sure to clean the well really good.
+Guy in WY, What was your Oxy Acetylene settings at? What pressures? Was there a bit of a blue flame? Lots of fire no fire?
+Anthony Abelardo I stayed with my typical cutting settings, 8 psi acetylene and 60 psi oxygen. I adjusted them to a neutral flame just like you would use to cut with but you could back down the oxygen a bit and it would be less likely to start melting.
great video... hope i dont have to go through the same issue but im about to find out. im gonna spray kroil a on them and let the daily driving work it in just like you said. thanks. really appreciate your video.
+lestypes I hope the info helps if you need it, but I hope even more that you don't need it!
Is the extraction the same for all different plugs
I wound up with a 1994 chevy S10.the plugs are frozen in place. Any good ideas i can do myself ? Im 71 years old so crawling on the ground is not an option. Can you help me ? It is a 4 cylinder.
Woww AWSOME video Thank you . I had a broken spark plug and now I have some ideas Sr thanks for sharing.. wish me luck.-:)
Thanks I have Lexis RX350 2007 it really helped really helped what you video because I did this today
R134a has a boiling point of -15* and it is also illegal to vent into the atmosphere so I don’t recommend using refrigerant for this but you can use the propane the same way or possibly an air duster upside down would be better for your wallet and the environment
So I have a 2002 dodge, and the spark plug broke inside the head, where it broke you can't get a tool on it, its the 8th spark plug. There is no porcelain in side, the threaded part is the only part stuck inside the head will jb weld and a bolt work, or do I need to take the head off, its a 4.7l byw
get a new truck and scap it out !
Are there any steps or things I should or shouldn't do when pulling the plugs to prevent them from breaking? Thanks!
Hey man I got a stuck socket inside the throat hole of the spark plug bore filing it out by using different variety of files
Thanks, helpful! I have a car with seized plugs, will get some extra stuff you reccomend!🔩🔧
The old style K&D works great but the screw type not so much for me
your video saved my ass lol thats for the tip on the square extractors man
You have the voice of a preacher.
Spot on helped me watching this vid thanks buddy
Got a 97 ford expedition 4.6l engine and found 2 spark plugs beyond stripped around the hex nut and was thinkin should i buy the extracter and break the porcelain piece first and use extractor please help
If the hex nut portion of the spark plug is rounded off so a socket won't grab it, I would try an use an external; extractor socket like one of these: amzn.to/2ymSsRo
I have a 92 F150 4 X 4 and had a problem getting the old plugs out when I went to change them. So that's at least 5 years Ford has been letting this problem slide. I got the plugs changed but now am thinking I'd better pull them again and put some anti-seize on them.
Not a big Ford fan and have not done much work on them. So when I bought the new plugs I noticed they didn't have the washer and asked the parts guy about it. He said that's they way those plugs are. That it sounds like is the issue. Think of all the problems and work that faulty design has caused. People all over the world struggling to get their damn spark plugs out. Hours of work when it should be a half hour job.
The vacuum doesn't work I tried it I used air to blow it out and had to use a camera and a noose to get the end of the plug out of the cylinder then turn the motor over 5 to 6 times then use air again then turned the motor over again then put a new spark plug in it then started the motor let it run for 5 minutes then changed the oil. It was on a 1996 ford f250 with the 7.5
I just discover you youpage today and I did subs to you my friend we always need other to learn more in mecanic and more stuff thkx buddy
How do you get the porcelain out?
You watch the whole video
Yep this works well. Learned it years ago
good video man. nice job and awesome repair!
Great great video but it's hard to put a torch on a 2007 GMC envoy what I did I got a number 6 extractor and a half inch long extension and a crescent wrench and PB blast and permission from the customer to replace the head to cover my ass and Give it a good turn and "POP" it came off.
Where did you get the #6 extractor? The ones I see are way too big and the #5 I have is probably a hair too small.
Very good information. Thank You!
Have you learned to use anti seize are your spark plugs yet on your exhaust manifolds. Save you a lot of time anything that's aluminum or steel that gets hot. And you expect it to come out someday
On may 19 2017 i started watching this and walked away. Tried everything...... atf, tabasco sauce, coca cola, hot piss, cow farts in a bottle even VOODOO! Today i'll continue watching
Lol
Broke the same extractor on this car here..... but did not try the freezing.
This happen to my 2014 bmw 3 series gawd I hope I can fix this using this method 😅
Did it work?
@@alexg8460 I went to autozone and bought like a reverse thread it ment to take out stripped bolts it worked you just gotta be patient when taking it out
Bet he has a ford 5.4. The plugs are notorious for breaking off inside the cylinder
very well done and easy to understand
Refrigerant on a red hot cast iron head?
I was thinking the same thing couldnt that crack the head ?
Head doesn't get very hot , plug has very little mass and will turn orange very fast . While the head has more mass and will absorb and dissipate heat. It is this differential in temperatures that breaks the rust bond, as the plug will have more thermal expansion.
You gonna burn the ozone layer with that refrigerant Buddy!!😆😆
Not this refrigerant it causes global warming though the old stuff they put in cars R12 destroyed the OZone the R134a causes global warming by blocking the suns rays from bouncing back out of the atmosphere
I have to do this on a ford intruder with a 460... ya it's a bus style RV.
Instead of propane trying using mapp gas. It burns hotter than propane
That's a good idea.
That's true but considering he had acetylene on it I don't think it would make much of a difference
Very information, great explaination. Thanks
Never use a torch on this fix it mess a piston valve or head up big time also cauch a fire on any gas leak from injectors. Noooo I other ways remove pb blaster works too
Helpful. Thank you.
Retired Professional Mechanic BUY Map gas not propane
Good information but most people don't have dat ki da equipment
Warm your truck up before attempting to remove your plugs the warmer the better
Had to order a set of extractors because some moron put 7 of the correct plugs and 1 wrong one in the truck and of course the wrong one broke.
What about dry ice?
+James B worth a try if you can get it to the plug.
Thank you, you saved me!