Manual Lens Shooting Tips With Olympus OM-D
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
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Since I have a manual lens now, I guess it is time to share some tips on how to shoot with a manual lens on Olympus cameras. If you have seen my previous video on Kamlan 50mm F1.1 Mark II, I have shared plenty of shots taken on the streets, with subjects in motion. I was able to quickly nail my shots, and it was not easy using a medium telephoto 100mm equivalent lens at F1.1 wide open, the depth of field was incredibly thin. Here are the tips that I am sharing
1:08 - Do Not Use Shutter Priority Mode
2:18 - Live View Boost OFF
3:40 - Activate Focus Peaking
6:12 - Magnified Preview
7:59 - Lens Focal Length Info for Image Stabilization
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Anyone interested to see a crazy comparison between Kamlan 50mm F1.1 II vs Olympus 45mm F1.2 PRO?
Yes, but you have to promise it's going to be a crazy comparison😀
@@mattisulanto am I not crazy enough for you? haha
@@robinwong Just want to make sure you keep up your craziness😀
Yes please! And I second Matti's request.
Yes please!
This video was absolutely essential to use my manual focus lenses effectively. Thanks Robin.
Thanks Robin! I bought a 500mm manual mirror lens and the IS wouldn't activate in my em5-3. The last tip really helped, i set the FL to 500 and IS now works!
I really appreciate your videos. I have been shooting with Olympus since I was 12 years old (I am 60 years now) and I am a fan of this brand. I have the OMD 1 mark ii and the omd 5 mark ii and the pen e-pl9. your videos help me get even more out of these cameras. Many thanks for this.
For my manual lenses I add the lens name, focal length, and aperture value in menu H1 (Lens info Setting). The nice thing is that this information will be added in metadata and is searchable in Lightroom and other apps that can read metadata. Once you select one of the lenses in this menu image stabilization will automatically know the focal length. Just remember to deselect once your done with the lens.
Really! That's so good.
Great tip Lars, thank you.
Sounds like a great tip, but I can't find that option on OMD-EM5 2. Perhaps it was added to newer cameras?
I love this guy! Seems like the nicest guy in the wooorld.... :)
That image stabilizaton focal length tip was useful.
Thanks, that is an important setting!
@@robinwong however is the focal length a 35mm equivalent or is it in M43?
Super helpful hints, Robin!
brill tips Robin! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. That was so useful.
This is the most important video I've seen on the OMD cameras so far. Thank you!
Great info Robin. Thx !
Thanks a lot Robin! Just bought a Voigtlander and your tips made manual focusing really easy! :)
Thank you! I've learnt a lot, very useful video.
Again, you have saved my sanity, such clear and helpful videos, thanks Robin................ Tony in Devon England use EM1 MK1.
Thanks you Robin for these tips. I was having problems getting the focus peaking to function with the Kamlan lens and my E-M1. Now I have it set and it works great.
Thanks a lot for these tips. As always very useful...
No worries, glad I could share them!
I love it "Dirty EVF" :-) Thanks for reviewing these tips, I use them all with Manual lenses. I also use digital zoom (faster than Zoom Frame) It works well for a basic magnification if you primarliy shoot RAW since the zoom is not applied to the RAW file.
The EVF looks so filthy, but I only found out during editing, and I did not want to reshoot the whole video. Good suggestion on the digital teleconverter, but I find 2x zoom not sufficient for me to get good enough focus accuracy! I'd need at least 5x zoom.
Thank you for a video that hits all the key points of shooting with manual lenses! I've had my EM1 for quite awhile now and I had no idea I could add the focal length of my manual lenses to image stabilization. Cool. 😁 I learn something new every day.
Thanks for the tips Robin! I've been using manual focus with much satisfaction.
No worries, glad you found the sharing useful. Glad you are enjoying manual focus.
very helpful video, it works with Olympus OMD E-M10 Mark2 and 7artisans 25mm / f1.8. thanks
Robin, thank you for all your help. Your expert advice has made me a better photographer. Using a manual focus lens takes me back to the good old days of 35mm film photography. I was an avid Nikon photographer back in my early days. Again, thank you, and Happy Holidays! :)
Very interesting i recently got vintage Manuel lens and this was useful thank you
Thank you for the useful tips!
Glad I can share!
Useful tips! I use Olympus PEN cameras and half of my lenses are manual. Focus peaking is very good feature. It works also simultaneously with magnification of the focusing area.
Thanks for this video, I just purchased an OMD E-1 Mark III and wanted to use some of my Leica and Alpa lens
Thanks for these tips, Robin!
Your videos always have useful things to try and learn. I'm using some of them with my M10 mk2 with a Pentax 55mm 1.8 adapted lens!
I am glad that my tips are useful, please shoot more, that Pentax 55mm soundds like a delicious lens.
I could never get how that worked! Now I do. Thanks for such a clear explanation. I guess this is with the using the screen to take photo mode off. I just tried it.👍👍👍 I had been using the 2x teleconverter mode to aid manual focus but it wasn't quite enough to see focus so precisely at 2x.
In 3 days I will have my first non Nikon camera shipped, the Olympus OM-D M10 mk ii and I am already checking tutorials and tips, to learn how to use the camera. Thank you for your video, well explained with clear instructions
great tips, thank you so much
Thank you Robin ✌☘🌺.
Thank you so much! New to photography and have om10 mark 2 with old pentax and want to do long exposure
Good tips, Robin. I have a couple more: same with the Live View OFF advice, also don't use S-OVF (if anyone uses that mode). Also, the newer Olympus models have a "Lens Information" setting, where you can predefine all your manual lens settings. I find that a great help, and it also adds lens metadata that I can use in Lightroom!
Great tips thank you!
Oh yes,thanks for another great video!!! Finally my vintage Helios-103 is making sharp pictures😮❤ cheers 😊
very useful for me, thank you
Focal Length - I would like to add, that you can record up to I think 10 lenses with names and focal length in your camera. This way you can choose the lens currently used and not only the focal length will be set, but the lens name will be recorded in the shooting metadata.
That's so true.
If you hacmve zoom lens which focal lengtgdo you set it to, the maximum?
@@johnflorey5277 Whatever focal length you are using at the time, I would think. If you use it more at one setting then pick that setting but you need to change it if you're going to move away from that setting especially by a long way. Otherwise the image stabilizer is likely to under or over compensate.
@@davebellamy4867 many thanks
How do you do this?
Thanks Robin, very useful tips! It’s great fun to try all those old lenses that have been gathering dust for years or decades 🙂
It’s so easy to find adapters from m4/3 to virtually any brand of lens.
Not all of us have old manual focus Olympus lens : I sold all mine when migrated from Olympus to brand X apsc digital brand in the early digital days.
Thanks, glad the tips are useful. Go out and play with those vintage lenses, they must be plenty of fun!
Thanks for this.
Thanks! I'm planning on shooting with Lensbaby lenses tonight. I didn't know about setting the focal length
Lensbaby sounds so fun! Shoot more photos please.
Extremely useful as always dear Robin. Maybe you could complement this excellent video with another one on the pros and cons of using adapters vs focal reducers. I find focal reducers to have a slimmer form-factor, produce sharper images and make the manual lens faster, so that when stopping-down there is no loss in aperture. At any rate your more detailed comparison will be most illuminating for all of us! All the best from Seoul, Korea.
My tip is, if you buy one of those crazy fast lenses like 1.2 or better, consider buing a ND filter as well. Otherwise you can't use 1.2 on bright days.
Given the cost of quality ND filters, that maybe cheap manual lens, may not be so cheap!
Alternatively, you can make use of the faster shutter speed up to 1/32000 using silent shutter, and go to ISO Low. That will technically give you about 3 stops more latitude to work with.
@@robinwong I didn't even know, that this is possible. My OM-D E10 stops at 1/4000 and I have the problem quite often, that I can't use F1.2. I found an old polarizer that even fits the lense.
Brilliant! Thanks Robin.
I would not have found the IS focal length setting.
Focus peaking (e-m10 mk3) is activated by moving the focus ring... Which of course doesn't work with zero electronics lens.
Found it...
Reassign Fn2 to peaking, instead of my usual MF.
Good tips on the use of manual lenses thanks! I would be interested in your experience and advice on other manual m43 lenses you have used - the only manual lenses I have are Olympus OM full frame film lenses. I will go watch the video on the 50mm!
Thanks a lot Robin! I've been really looking forward to this video! If you hadn’t done it, I’m sure I’ll ask you it! Because I have a Helios 58mm vintage lens and one 300mm too.
No worries, glad the video is helpful, and wow, those are some interesting lenses you have, please shoot more!
How do you like those lenses? I am looking at both these lenses for a decent price.... only for some nice fun... so I don't want pay lot. Anyone tried longer reach lenses?
@@yashwantchowdhary441 I have these lenses and a ZENIT 12 S SLR body since 1986. This is a complett photosniper set, inclouded these lenses, filters, the SLR body, trigger assemly, and a steel carrying case. This was in the time a very good deal. I have tried are a few times, exspeciale the Helios 58mm (ekv 104mm) f:2. I can say it make a very good bluring for portre photo, but I could not useing it well, because I was not sure in settings. Now, after then I have seen Robin's video, I am going to try it again. The Helios 300mm lens (ekv 600mm) a very big and mass lens. You can use it only on tripod well. I have used only once, for testing. It is like a gun! :-) Both lenses are massive construction.
Hi Robin. Excellent video clip. Extremely useful as I have a Samyang 100mm macro manual lens and my Nikkor 200mm macro manual lens through a Metabones Speed Boost Adapter. I will check on the settings on my OMD EM1 mark i and mark ii cameras as you suggested. I have to say that attaching my above 2 lenses to Olympus cameras was a very significant improvement in stability over my old Panasonic / Lumix GH4 camera that had no stabilisation. My above 2 macro lens are producing excellent results but can not of course do Focus Stacking or Bracketing !!!!
BUT There is the pending 100mm Olympus macro which may end up replacing both of these lenses. Glad you are still able to post clips following the Malaysian Government U turn. Take care and stay safe. You are always welcome to stay with me in West London if you ever wish to come over to the UK. We have an “executive suite” !!!
Thanks so much for the offer to stay when visiting in London, I will surely keep this in mind. Let's wait a bit till all this Covid/Pandemic drama blows over. And yes I am looking forward to the Olympus 100mm Macro lens. I am just glad now that I can go out and continue to make videos without any consequences!
@@t.rahmatullah767 how do you mean? If you mean split screen focusing, that is obviously not possible due to the digital cameras using electronic viewfinders.
Hi Robin
Thank you for your tips. 👍
Your cup of coffee on the way. 😊☺️
Ibrahim
Thanks Ibrahim, much appreciate the coffee boost!
Thank you
ThanksRobin. Sometimes when I turn the focus ring in manual mode the magnify tool will become operational automatically.
That only works if you use a digital lens. It won't work for manual lens.
Great tips! I always learn something new from these tips videos. I do have a question though. After changing the focal length for IS, does it have to be reset for using auto lens?
There are huge advantages to use shutter priority mode (with auto ISO setting):
1. You can keep ISO low at low light conditions, because you can override reciprocal rule, allowing IBIS to do its job.
2. Exposure compensation works, but in manual mode you have to use and change fix ISO setting, which is more inconvenient.
Anyway, at good light conditions I use aperture priority mode with auto ISO, exposure compensation also works. I think that is the most convenient mode to use manual lenses. I never use manual mode :)
I don't know if exposure compensation works in newer cameras in manual mode, mine doesn't know it (E-M10 Mark II).
In manual mode without Auto-ISO the exposure triangle (aperture, shutter, and ISO) is fixed and there is no way the camera can compensate. This is not a question of older or newer model or even camera brand. Only with Auto-ISO cameras are able to do exposure compensation in M mode.
Thank you, Robin... very useful as always. When using a lens adapter with focal reducer optics (x0.71), do you think that the focal length entered for stabilisation should be the lens' actual focal length or the focal length x 0.71? In reality, it probably won't make much difference, I imagine.
Hello and congatulation for your great advice and help all these years for Olympus OMD systems. I have an em10 mark iii camera and my questions are:
1. What settings i have to enter in the camera for using the 7artisans 7,5mm f2.8 MFT? 7.5 mm or 14mm? Also the decimal number (in this case 7.5 the ".5" number must be entered in the box that is a little further than the other? because the isn't a way to type "." in the camera).
2. If i want to put back on the camera an auto focus lens (like Olympus 14-42 f3.5-5.6 IIR), the camera with auto reset its settings to the right for the each lens mm or i have to do it each time manually?
Thank you in advance!
Great, as usual :-) got the first manual lens for my OMD E-M5 Mark III (Samyang 7.5mm) and happy with it. One thing seems funny to me, when I turn on the camera with this manual lens, the first shot is always 'scrapped', only from second shot on it is saved. is that a normal behaviour when using manual lenses ?
nice
Hi Robin Thanks for this! A question on Image Stabilization and Focal Length. Do I enter the stated length on an old lens (Non 4/3) or do I double it and put in the length the 4/3 system is seeing?
Hi Robin, find your videos very informative.
A question, if you have a manual zoom lens say 100 to 200mm what focal length do you set the OMD to?
Years ago I bought an M3/4-Nikon F adapt... Pictures didn't develop properly. After all these years I understand why. Thanks Robin
Oh dear, sorry to hear that. Was it because of the wrong Image Stabilization focal length setting?
@@robinwong I have always learned the hard way. I remember reading about the 'Stabilization focal length setting' just didn't apply until coach properly. THx again
Hi Robin! I have a question regarding OM-D E-M10 Mark II . Is there any way to exit magnified image with the the shutter button pressed half way instead of fn buttons. In E-PL5 ,it exit with the shutter button.
Hi, I've a Olympus OM-D E-M1 and from my very old Pentax MG I also have the following lens:
- Pentax 1:1.7 50mm
-Tokura 1:3.5-4.5 28-70mm and
-Tokura 1:4.0-5.6 70-210mm
So my answer is, is it possible to use these lens in my Olympus, if yes, how and is it worthy?
Thanks
So Robin if I'm using a telephoto lens should I change the focal length setting each time I zoom in or out? Thank you
Hi Robin. Thank you for your videos about the OMD Olympus cameras, I have oneE-M10II. Ah, I bought you coffee but did not include my name. It would be great whether you can post a video about nocturnal landscape or milky way with with this camera. I have an 25 mm, 1:1.8 Zuiko lens. It will be of a lot of help! Keep going. Thank you again.
Hi Mario, thanks for the coffee, appreciate it. It will be challenging for me to make videos about night sky shooting because I live in the city and I don't own a car (rely on public transport). However, if the opportunity presents itself, I will try to do something. Thanks.
Do you enter the full frame focal length. Or the doubled converted focal length?
Focus Peaking works with my digital lens but doesn't work with my manual. I have an Adapt-all on the lens, and then a lens converter so it fits on my M2. Would that have anything to do with it?
Robin, using MANUAL lens, after adjusting the lens focal length info (for the specific lens), do I need to change/re-adjust the lens info back when I am using my regular Olympus lens (NOT manual lens)?
Dear Robin, when i use my Olympus em1 m3 with vintage manual lenses focus peaking doesn't work at all. It works good with Olympus lenses. Why is it so? Thank you very much!
if i have a 28-200 manual lens, what do i set the 'lens focal length' to? would it be 200?
i have 1qustion :)
i have 2 manual lens and always use them
but when i change lens, always i have to change lens focal length setting. it is very uncomfortabla :(
i want to save each differnt focallength setting at custom1 and custom2...
but when in reality
i saved focal length 25mm at c1
go to c2, i can saw focallength setted 25mm
i want c1 focal length 25mm and c2 focal length 40mm
how can i do?? ㅠㅠ
One thing I do like about my Panasonic G9 (and yes, I know you're an Olympus guy but...) is that when I attach a manual lens, a window pops up asking for the focal length for the IBIS. No hunting through menus. Also, peaking is turned on automatically too.
Can you turn both that off? I can understand Olympus' approach. When I turn on the camera I don't want the camera to ask me anything. I want the camera ready to shoot. I'd prefer to only go in and activate things if I want to. Else that would cause me to miss shots.
@@robinwong I haven't tried, to be honest, I will have to check. And yes, I can see your point of view too. Though it is easy to forget to change the IBIS settings, done it myself on my EM1 a time or two.
@@amcripps25 I think it should not be a problem if you don't change lens a lot. Also, in some cases I prefer magnified preview over peaking, so the ability to choose or switch them on and off are important to me. I am very, very sure G9 allows you to configure that, it is a well-thought out camera.
Dear Robin thanks for your tips... I received today an TTartisan 35mm f 1.4 for my Olympus OM-D 10 II camera...but when I put the lens on it simply don't work :-( I have an Meike lens and a Samyang also manual and the work just fine? I try to go to menu and find use the camera without lens but ...and don't now how to set this?! Can anyone help me? Thanks
Hi Robin, I am using olympus lens (17mm), then I don't need to set focal length on the camera, right? Thank you.
If it is a modern Olympus M4/3 lens (17mm F/1.8 or F/1.2) than that is correct.
Robin, like your video. As a matter of interest, as I have 2 x Pen F''s, did not pick up what body you were using. The Menu system seemed very, very complex?
Tbh, there is not that much difference between MFT 45 mm and 35 SLR equivalent, at least to my mind.
I find focus peaking the only way to go when using the 2 manual lenses I have.
Btw: manual /vintage lens were all the rage a few years ago, particularly with Sony APS-C a6000 and the very large number of redundant manual focus lens were quite inexpensive. Now, most of them have seemingly been purchased and the prices are quite high.
For me, would prefer to AF Olympus non-Pro lens, but others have quite differing views, as the speed of AF, particularly with impatient subjects who only use phones for capturing images.
Grew up with film, so am used to MFocus, but when film camera AF came, it was a godsend when you had to focus quickly.
Most Olympus lenses, PRO or NON PRO can focus extremely quickly. The only slower AF lenses were the first generation lenses, eg original kit lens for E-P1 14-42mm and also the 17mm F2.8 pancake. Other than these two lenses, I find not much difference in AF speed for all Olympus lenses.
For a manual zoom lens, which focal length needs to be added - lowest, highest or middle?
I would suggest setting up three entries, one for each in the lens list. That way you can choose which is closes to what you are shooting and the IBIS will be either accurate of close.
With focus magnification, assigning a button for IBIS to be active, you advised change to focal length of the manual kendr. When it's a manual zoom lens, what focal would you choose. Example 70-210mm. Which one you choose...70 or 210?
There is no straight answer for that. You can only choose one single focal length to be stabilized. The best option is to turn the IS off completely so you can use the entire zoom range with no issues.
I choose the longest focal length. Your comment on this strategy?
Can't find Focus Peaking on my OMD EM5 Mk1 ! Don't tell me it's NOT there lol
Hey Robin, great video. I just started shooting with manual lenses. So Tip 1, 2, and 5 are new to me and will be VERY helpful tomorrow. Thanks. BTY any recommendations on focal reducers for my old OM Zuiko lenses? I love my 25mm and 17mm newer lenses, I cant afford the Pro line and would love to use my 5O and 28mm OM lenses as a 50 and 28. I actually would like to see Zukio make a focal reducer. I am sure they have tech and skills. Great job! Looking forward to the next video. Neil
Thanks Neil, glad you found the sharing useful. I am sorry I have no experience with other adapters.
I have a number of focal reducers for OM glass.
The Metabones Speedbooster Ultra is the best, but is very expensive.
The Viltrox EF-M2 II with a thin EF -> OM adapter is nearly as good as the Metabones, at 1/4th the money! The older version seems quite nice, as well, but you must tape off the contacts - it won't work with a non-electronic lens.
I just got the Zhongyi focal reducer, and it seems rather nice. Perhaps a tad short of the Viltrox. It also requires a thin EF -> OM adapter.
The Kipon Baveyes has quite a bit of vignetting, although the image quality is good. Since it's about the same money as the Viltrox, I'd choose the latter over it.
The Viltrox, for all its good qualities, is aesthetically displeasing. It looks clunky, with a lever sticking out (for manually adjusting Canon EF aperture) and a USB port, that you don't need if you're using OM glass.
If you like the best and can afford it, get the Metabones. In addition to better optical quality, it is "clean" and aesthetically pleasing on the camera. But if you want to save money and don't care about looks, get the Viltrox Mount Adapter EF-M2 II.
I use a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 all the time with my E-M1 and E-M10 all the time.
Do you use a speedbooster with it or not
Love First no I don’t I just use the adapter
Love first, why did you suggest a speed booster? It will also add significantly to the cost.
Has anyone experience with using adapter for Nikon kendr to MFT with electronic connection and how good (or bad) and what ur experience was?
@@yashwantchowdhary441 I was asking because I was curious but the name brands like viltrox don't mess around with the lens character to much but don't have one just did lot of research.
Robin, thanks for your timely video. My husband( videographer) and I have just started playing with some vintage lenses. Is there a way to turn focus peaking on as a default? Asking for him as that is very helpful in video. Also, is there zebra striping hidden in menus anywhere?
This is one of my pet peeves!
my E-M1.2 seems to take every opportunity to turn Focus Peaking off! Camera sleep? FP goes off. In addition, there is no visible indicator (other than trying to use FP) that it is on!
@@Bytesmiths My husband would agree. Guess that @robinwong does not have a way either as he has not responded. We will just have to keep muddling through.
@@robinnevillephotography I concerted Olympus Engineering Support with a long and detailed enhancement request to better support legacy lenses. They thanked me for my input, and apparently did nothing; that was about four firmware releases ago.
@ Robin, Very timely, experimenting with different lenses right now. Question: have not found a way to use focus peaking AND histogram at the same time, when enabling the focus peaking the histogram disappears?
Lars J I assigned peaking to the evf button so when using laowa 7.5 I check settings then focus with peaking ... seems a workable workaround.
@@brabs2754 Thank you for the reply, but I was asking if it was possible to use focus peaking AND histogram at the same time.
Lars J I saw that and my experience is same as yours ... my genre is mostly landscape so I have time to add another button press, I did recently use handheld with laowa 7.5 without magnification and wasnt so impressed with the “everythings in focus” peaking so recognised peaking with magnification is required ... another f button press.
@@brabs2754 yes that is correct, I am using several lenses with my em1 mk 3 and think magnifications id the best way to get proper focus but it would be very helpful if histogram could be used for proper exposure at the same time with focus peaking.in order to avoid to many steps. ((not using for landscape)
Lars J how are you finding the 3 ? I have a pair of 2s so reluctant to upgrade just yet ...
Automatic Magnified Preview doesn't work on my E-M10-3 when I use Zuiko film lenses with the MF-2 adapter. Is there any way to correct this? The setting is turned on but it only works with digital lenses.
I never mentioned anything about automatic magnified preview in this video, did I? Where did you find the information that automatic magnified preview works with manual lens? I want to find out how too!
@@robinwong My mistake, there is no way the camera can know when you are focusing a manual lens, there are no electronic signals between the lens and the camera. The solution as you described in your video is to program a button to turn on magnification.
When setting the focal length adjustment for image stabilization for adapted full frame lenses, do you need to take into account the 2 times crop factor?
Focal length is focal length, independent of any crop or other "factors".
I thought, when you use a lens with say 150mm focal length, on a 35mm,u choose faster than 1/150 speed. But, on a MFT, you would choose 1/300 (crop factor of 2) and on a APSC, x1.5 etc.
Is that not good recommendation? Albeit, if u r on a tripod or you got real steady hands, it will change.
If you use a 50mm lens, set the focal length to 50mm. You get equivalent of 100mm field of view, but the stabilization recognizes the focal length as 50mm
Everybody, thank you for your advice!
I had the same question, but I figured I'd scroll through the comments first. This answers it for me too! Thanks!
Hi Robin, Great video as usual. I may have missed something regarding setting the Image Stabilisation for my KamLan 50mm Mk 1. It won't move off of 9mm.when I try to change it to 50mm on my em1 Mk2. I've re-watched your video but it still won't move off 9mm. Help!
Hi Glenn, did you press "Info" button before trying to change the focal length numbers?
@@robinwong Thanks Robin. Got the hang of it now. When I put a proper Olympus lens on again, will the camera immediately default to whatever focal length that has.
@@glennobrien5039 I have experienced that the display doesn't update so I would be curious about what the camera is actually doing too.
@@robinnevillephotography I'll play around some more and come back. I think the camera says, "Ah I have a proper Olympus lens attached now , I'll act accordingly."
@@glennobrien5039 I think so too, but have found that the screen doesn't update. Be curious to see what you find.
I can not use focus peaking when I use laowa 7.5 with em1 mk2
Did you assign the focus peaking to a button, and then activate it with that button?
Robin Wong wow I got it thank so much for yr advise
How do you set the focal length of a manual zoom lens. You set it to the longest? Thank you
There is no good answer for manual zoom unfortunately. The setting only works for a single focal length. My suggestion is not to use the IS and turn it off.
I would set it to 1/3 of the way between short and long end. Setting it to longest mm will make the IS overcompensate when using the short end. Setting it to shortest mm will make IS undercompensate when using the long end. It is better to undercompensate so 1/3 should be a good compromise. You can also assign several presets in 10mm increments and use a dedicated button to quickly change the IS preset.
@@robinwong Thank you
Tip #5 - Does this tip change if using a manual zoom lens?
You have to change it every time you change your zoom setting.
"Dirty EVF" ahahahah
I have OM Zuiko 'legacy' glass, namely the 180 2.8 MC and 300 f4. I tried a 600 f6.5 MC, and sent it back. It seems these lenses are inferior for critical use. The 300 has bad chromatic aberration (red fringe), and the 600mm had a swirling distortion around sharp, contrasty vortex centers. I am no expert, but I suspect the technology for applying coatings fifty-years ago was not as precise as today. On the positive side, non-critical use (portraits) of telephoto legacy glass with the OMD (there are great OM-MFT adapters available now) means Internal Stabilization with a non IS lens, to a degree. There is only so much IBIS can do for telephoto movement.
@Leonard Daneman . My advice, used your OM Zuiko lenses on a Sony A7(s) mark 1. It is the closest to a Digital OM-2.
@William White Yep. They designed digital 4/3rds lenses to image perpendicular to the sensor. A telephoto, however, has a rear element so far from the sensor (about 3.5-4 inches with my OM 300 4.5 on an MFT body) that it is fairly well columnated . . . so, my guess it is aberration from the coating technique. It is too large a 'whorl' or 'spiral' distortion around a sharp center (like a vortex) to be merely circles of confusion. Its a mystery . . . hopefully, I can afford a 300mm f4 Zuiko one day and test it out compared to my 300 f4.5 OM Zuiko.
@William White Actually, there are new nanocoatings that correct chromatic aberration. But, the swirling whorls of distortion around points of contrasty focus through the image make focus on distant leaves impossible . . . or of patterns. It is multiple Circles of Confusion . . . I can't find a defined flaw that does this to the image. It is a mystery, so I returned the lens.
@William White My research mentioned misalignment as a possible cause of the swirling confusion around evenly spaced contrasty focus points, but I don't know enough about optics to go, 'yep, that's it' . . . but, the OM telephotos pretty much columnate the image . . . like I said, 3-4 inches from the rear element to the focal plane. The new nanocoatings were announced 2018. I forget which university.
@William White petapixel.com/2018/11/23/harvard-makes-nanosurface-that-fixes-chromatic-aberration-in-lenses/ Again, I searched for optics articles describing what I experience in the OM 600mm . . . misalignment from being dropped seems possible. The focus rack was a little 'grindy,' not perfectly smooth.
An expert told me that a careless repair reinstalling the rear element in the wrong orientation could cause the two aberrations I noticed . . . Instead of trying to milk high accutance out of these legacy optics, I have moved over to my Pentax 645 lenses which are much sharper, clearer than the OM. Pentax had some Flourite glass back in the day too . . .
"Dirty EVF" :-)
"Dirty EVF"