Punished Props Academy is there any way that in a two part mold you could cold cast? And if you have multiple peices of the gun how would you recommend molding it?
I run a business selling custom holsters and I've been wanting to reduce cost by making my own molds. Thank you for your help in creating success in my small business!!! Just subscribed!
Thank you guys so much for the help on that project! It was for a gift for Bungie and they loved, even had it out on display at GuardianCon, SO COOL!!!
This is so nice to watch, thank you. Btw we are developing an online makerspace solution over at youblob.com, perhaps you wanna repost this video with a step by step guide and include the products that you use? That would be very helpful. PS we are still in beta release, plus it is built on top of an open marketplace, so you can sell your own stuff :) And if Smooth-on decides to join as well, they get traceability on each recipe that is made around their products :D
Punished Props Academy Please a fully cured resin will bonded to another layer of PUR resin? If i wait to much time to close the molding and put more resin the parts can not welding well? Thanks
Sweet! Appreciate all the time and effort Punished Props Academy puts into each video. Molding and casting is something I'd really love to do sometime, but it's rather time consuming and I want to do it right. Your videos have definitely made the process less intimidating!
Love your stuff. One way for you to make a little better barrel mold/cleaner barrel hole is to put a metal pin into the gun. Sticking out half an inch at least. Leave the pin in the gun for both sides of the silicone pour as if its part of the gun. Once you are done with the mold, you can place the pin back into the mold. Put mold release on it. Once the prop is done pull out the pin, and you will have a perfect barrel, and you dont have to worry about any bubbles in the barrel. (which is the main reason you would use pins, the second being for places where your hole would bond both sides of the mold or tear easily during replication. For anyone watching, not only does the baby powder allow for the resin to flow into the tighter areas, it more importantly allows for the air bubbles to escape. It creates a friction free surface for the bubbles to bounce off of while traversing up (out) of the mold, past the incoming resin. Great tutorial. Mason
If I correctly understand the technique you're describing, that would leave a perfectly cylindrical barrel hole in the molded piece, right? What if the barrel hole actually has geometry (like rifling, etc.) as the piece in this video has (see 2:05)?
Oh no way!??! You have an entire series on this!??! I want to make molds for some cosplay projects. I think urethane would be sturdier than PLA welded together. I think I could produce more copies faster as well.
This was exactly what I needed, thank you for doing these kinds of videos, finally answered a bunch of questions and exemplified tons of useful techniques. Subscribed!
Awesome, not enough videos I’ve seen talk about the pour spouts.. trying to research enough to feel comfortable enough to purchase supplies to make models.
Nice to see how to make a two piece mould but where is the challenge as it is a straight forward project. Looking to see if you can help as I have an awkward model and what you have done has gave a little insight but what i am making is a lot more intrigue and was looking for help
Awesome video as usual!! I plan on doing a two part mold walk-through on my twitch stream soon, so this was a pleasant surprise/refresher before I tackle it myself.
Taking the first half out of the mold box made me go "yum" cause it looked like some sort of cheesecake with chocolate mouse. FORBIDDEN SNACK. Great video! Really interested in trying different silicones and just playing around with them to see which ones fit different needs. (My birthday present this year is just gonna be so much silicone)
So tasty! If you haven't had a chance yet, check out this quick video where Bill breaks down different kinds of silicone and their uses! ua-cam.com/video/m0pv3kDKynQ/v-deo.html - Paige
Love the videos man. Helped me learn so I could make a prop for my first con. A crows head cane for a character nobody got, everyone thought I was penguin from gothum.
Hey peeps, I'm trying to make a silicone mold to copy some warhammer pieces (strictly for personal use as basing materials). The masters are large, flat, thin, regular rectangles, with lots of small details on the upper surface. I'm using Smooth-On's Oomoo 30, 2-part silicone rubber. The problem I'm having is when I pour the silicon, it's not flowing in to all the fine detail in the master and air is getting trapped, so the final mold has lots off missing or obscured details. I don't have access to a vacuum chamber, and I don't think that bubbles in the silicone is the problem. What I need is some way to help the silicon flow better I think. Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated
That was really nice! Questions: How do you clean the mold after use? And What can I use as an alternative release agent? Would vaseline or baby oil work? Thank you!
If the mold needs cleaning I'll wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't recommend using any kind of mold release other than what's recommended for silicone. Ease Release 200 is fantastic.
Hi Bill, Nice jobs you have there. I follow all your lessons. Thank you Why so many keys on the molds? When I make it I put not so many. Is that importante? Thanks aagain and keep on the very good work Cheers Antonio (Portugal)
Hey Bill, really love your stuff...this video specifically was really helpful. I'd love to know some more about cutting the silicone... it's tricky to hold and cut accurately - any tips? Cheers Adam, Australia.
Fantastic video! Question: can an actual handgun be used without harm to the item? I make leather holsters and have need for casts or unusual items that can only be cast from the original gun, or gun & scope/light. Thanks.
Theoretically yes, the silicone shouldn't adhere to the metal. You'd just want to make sure you have any open cavities blocked up with clay before molding, and I imagine you'll need to do a pretty thorough cleaning after the fact.
@@punishedprops I saw you guys used the EM-217. It doesn't say the level of hardness it is, but if it's what you guys used, then I'm gonna order that same one. It comes in 50lbs bags and that's a lot of clay for my project, but it's quite inexpensive. I just don't know if it's sulfur free, but if it didn't react negatively with your silicone it shouldn't with the Polytek I'm using. Thanks so much!
OK I kind of flipped when I saw the duster gas hot glue cooling trick. Total "why didn't I think of that" moment, will be useing that for sure, thanks man! =D
Hello I've seen your work amazing. i was wondering what could i use for a under suit but were its a rubber that has a good stretch to like the kind of rubber that was used for RoboCop under suit in the 2014 film
We no longer have the mold, but our pal ZProps sells a really great kit: www.zprops.net/store/p18/Destiny_Ace_of_Spades_Hand_Cannon_Pistol_Prop_%282_part_resin_kit%29.html
There are only a couple of low temp metals that would work in a silicone mold, like pewter. Although that much molten pewter would probably destroy a mold like this.
I can’t answer for the guys, of course, but I have some tiny moulds that I fill with any leftovers, then make fridge magnets with them as add on gifts for friends/customers/random people on the street. If you look on AliExpress or eBay for silicon ice cube moulds, you can find some great shapes for a couple of dollars.
Loved the video. Do you have any estimates on the cost of the mold and cost of the resin used? Just curious on it. Loved the video. Thanks for always making great content!
I want to make a silicone Facehugger what kind of silicone would you use? I also want the tell and all the digits to be poseable I have ideas on how to do this but I would appreciate anything you have to offer as well.
Where the mold halves come together in the space behind the cylinder, did they not mesh perfectly? Not complaining, just wondering if it was something to watch out for, pretty sure I saw a registration nub down in that gap on the cast.
They lined up just fine, but a little bit of resin squeezed between the mold halves. This is known as "flash" or "flashing" and can be trimmed away from the final casting.
Can you tell us how the original part was made? I used a filament 3d printer and the cast makes everything looks like it was 3d printer. Also what is the cost for getting set up for all of this?
Do you have any recommendations for the degassing chamber? Like how long to leave the silicone in there for, what pressure to set the vacuum at? Thanks!
If you intend to use Chrome on a prop like this. Would you 2k clear coat the master. Or the casts that come out ? I'm thinking if done before you can just cast and chrome right away.
Doing a clear coat like that before making the mold will certainly help with your surface quality, but you'd still want to lay down a gloss black layer before chroming.
I'm hoping you guys can help me. I am trying to make a 2 part mold but cant get past the conception phase. I have a 3d print piece that happens to be a piece of celery. The issue is, the leaf are at different angles and there are four stalks. I just dont know where to "cut it in half" because the object isnt symeytical and I think it would have floating rubber. I have been sitting here thinking for the last hour. Please help
Is there a trick to getting the clay softer? I purchased some non-hardening clay to build up my mold, but it feels very hard and it is difficult to get around all the details of my model. Thanks!
Heat! Work it for a while with your hands, let it sit in the sun, hit it with a hair dryer, etc. That's the trick we use with monster clay or Plastaline
There's actually a decently strong bond between the silicone and the resin - an airtight seal, essentially. If you don't jostle it too much it should be fine to flip and place on the other half, provided you've let it cure long enough to be tacky.
How did you know I needed to learn how to make a mold?! Can you recommend a resin or casting material that is similar to ABS plastic? Mostly, light and very resilient? Also... Can I please come tour the studio!? I'm just getting my teeth into youtube as a prop maker for nerf and rwby things and could use senpais help
It depends on what silicone you use, how large the mold is, and also how much you have to stretch and pull the silicone to de-mold. I've had some molds last years, while others only go for a few months.
There are some great resin kits out there. Here's one from ZProps: www.zprops.net/store/p18/Destiny_Ace_of_Spades_Hand_Cannon_Pistol_Prop_%282_part_resin_kit%29.html
could anyone tell me why you would mold it instead of just 3d printing it? i understand that you dont have to use alot of time sanding it, but isnt the molded plastic alot more expensive?
The other way you could measure how much silicone you need is to put the box on a scale then zero it, then fill it with water. The weight of the water is equal to the amount of silicone you need in fl oz.
A lot of that depends on how thick or thin the resin/print walls are. Resin can be brittle but it stands up better to force from multiple directions, whereas prints can delaminate and come apart where the layers meet.
How would you go about making a mold out of a cap gun or Airsoft gun? I'm concerned about making stunt replicas of weapons with large internal voids and moving parts that silicone could leak into.
You can use clay to plug up any parts that you don't want to get silicone into. It's a pain to do, and you'll need to take apart the airsoft gun after molding to get all the clay out, but it can be done.
Visit our website to check out the all of the materials and links mentioned here! punishedprops.com/2018/07/16/two-part-mold-2/
Punished Props Academy is there any way that in a two part mold you could cold cast? And if you have multiple peices of the gun how would you recommend molding it?
How was the original made for the copy?
Doop Pood in multiple peices
I'd like to know what you charge for full size AR15,AK47, and shotgun molds?
I run a business selling custom holsters and I've been wanting to reduce cost by making my own molds. Thank you for your help in creating success in my small business!!! Just subscribed!
Thank you guys so much for the help on that project! It was for a gift for Bungie and they loved, even had it out on display at GuardianCon, SO COOL!!!
Dude it was so much fun! =D
Great video guys, thanks for posting this!
Thanks so much, gang! =D
This is so nice to watch, thank you.
Btw we are developing an online makerspace solution over at youblob.com, perhaps you wanna repost this video with a step by step guide and include the products that you use?
That would be very helpful.
PS we are still in beta release, plus it is built on top of an open marketplace, so you can sell your own stuff :)
And if Smooth-on decides to join as well, they get traceability on each recipe that is made around their products :D
Punished Props Academy Please a fully cured resin will bonded to another layer of PUR resin? If i wait to much time to close the molding and put more resin the parts can not welding well? Thanks
This is seriously the BEST, simple way to make a mold. Thank you for this.
I never get tired of watching a casting video!
Sweet! Appreciate all the time and effort Punished Props Academy puts into each video. Molding and casting is something I'd really love to do sometime, but it's rather time consuming and I want to do it right. Your videos have definitely made the process less intimidating!
I don’t know what it is, but there is something SO SATISFYING about all those perfect little registration knobbies!
Aren't they pretty?
One of the cleanest molds I’ve seen to date .
Why thank you!
Love your stuff.
One way for you to make a little better barrel mold/cleaner barrel hole is to put a metal pin into the gun. Sticking out half an inch at least. Leave the pin in the gun for both sides of the silicone pour as if its part of the gun. Once you are done with the mold, you can place the pin back into the mold. Put mold release on it. Once the prop is done pull out the pin, and you will have a perfect barrel, and you dont have to worry about any bubbles in the barrel. (which is the main reason you would use pins, the second being for places where your hole would bond both sides of the mold or tear easily during replication.
For anyone watching, not only does the baby powder allow for the resin to flow into the tighter areas, it more importantly allows for the air bubbles to escape. It creates a friction free surface for the bubbles to bounce off of while traversing up (out) of the mold, past the incoming resin.
Great tutorial.
Mason
If I correctly understand the technique you're describing, that would leave a perfectly cylindrical barrel hole in the molded piece, right? What if the barrel hole actually has geometry (like rifling, etc.) as the piece in this video has (see 2:05)?
Oh no way!??! You have an entire series on this!??! I want to make molds for some cosplay projects. I think urethane would be sturdier than PLA welded together. I think I could produce more copies faster as well.
I have watched this video now a couple of times and still love watching how well this turned out
That's wonderful! We're so glad you enjoy the video!
This was exactly what I needed, thank you for doing these kinds of videos, finally answered a bunch of questions and exemplified tons of useful techniques. Subscribed!
I find lego is really good for building outer walls and is great for smaller items
Great idea!
Awesome, not enough videos I’ve seen talk about the pour spouts.. trying to research enough to feel comfortable enough to purchase supplies to make models.
Hand cannons are my favourite type of weapon in the game so I would really love to make something like this!
Less than 20 seconds in and I see the “0 days glitter free” and I’m laughing so hard! 😂😂😂 brilliant.
I watch his videos because I'm too poor to do it myself, great videos man
Thanks for enjoying our content!
Nice to see how to make a two piece mould but where is the challenge as it is a straight forward project. Looking to see if you can help as I have an awkward model and what you have done has gave a little insight but what i am making is a lot more intrigue and was looking for help
Awesome video as usual!! I plan on doing a two part mold walk-through on my twitch stream soon, so this was a pleasant surprise/refresher before I tackle it myself.
Awesome!
So cool to see my Bones statue on your video!! :D Big fan for a long time here!!
DUDE! That statue is SO DOPE! =D
Wow !!! Bill thank you so much for sharing this. This video is amazing it should have WAY move views !!!
You're welcome!
thorough and super comprehensive as always!
the rice method is very useful. Thank you
Taking the first half out of the mold box made me go "yum" cause it looked like some sort of cheesecake with chocolate mouse. FORBIDDEN SNACK. Great video! Really interested in trying different silicones and just playing around with them to see which ones fit different needs. (My birthday present this year is just gonna be so much silicone)
So tasty!
If you haven't had a chance yet, check out this quick video where Bill breaks down different kinds of silicone and their uses! ua-cam.com/video/m0pv3kDKynQ/v-deo.html
- Paige
r/forbiddensnacks
Such a massively useful video, thanks so much for making this!
You're welcome!
Love the videos man. Helped me learn so I could make a prop for my first con. A crows head cane for a character nobody got, everyone thought I was penguin from gothum.
Kaz Brekker? 😁
@@seedreamsss yes, the world has caught up. 😁
Awesome stuff Bill. Very informative and easy to understand :)
Thank you for making great videos with all the information one could need to do this. Keep being amazing!
You're welcome!
I've used spray paint on my molds as a release agent and a good primer layer for later painting.
Very cool!
Can't wait for the anthem props and costumes.
That mold came out great! It's like magic every time I see it happen :)
Hey peeps, I'm trying to make a silicone mold to copy some warhammer pieces (strictly for personal use as basing materials). The masters are large, flat, thin, regular rectangles, with lots of small details on the upper surface. I'm using Smooth-On's Oomoo 30, 2-part silicone rubber. The problem I'm having is when I pour the silicon, it's not flowing in to all the fine detail in the master and air is getting trapped, so the final mold has lots off missing or obscured details. I don't have access to a vacuum chamber, and I don't think that bubbles in the silicone is the problem. What I need is some way to help the silicon flow better I think. Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated
Very Informative! Great idea doing a duel pour!
Can you guy's make more destiny props? plz.
We've done a bunch! You can see all of our Destiny stuff here: punishedprops.com/destiny-props-costumes/
Nice mold tutorial!
That was really nice!
Questions: How do you clean the mold after use? And What can I use as an alternative release agent? Would vaseline or baby oil work? Thank you!
If the mold needs cleaning I'll wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't recommend using any kind of mold release other than what's recommended for silicone. Ease Release 200 is fantastic.
Thank you!
Hi Bill,
Nice jobs you have there. I follow all your lessons. Thank you
Why so many keys on the molds? When I make it I put not so many. Is that importante?
Thanks aagain and keep on the very good work
Cheers
Antonio (Portugal)
As far as I know, you can't have too many registration keys in a mold like this, so you might as well put them on every available surface.
Hey Bill, really love your stuff...this video specifically was really helpful. I'd love to know some more about cutting the silicone... it's tricky to hold and cut accurately - any tips? Cheers Adam, Australia.
Practice practice practice! =D
Is that Okay you did 2 times pouring. Will the 1st resin stick well with the 2nd? This trick help for high detail mold.
Killer video! Makes me wanna mold and cast my Makonde Dagger.
Go for it! Show us how it goes on Twitter: twitter.com/chinbeard
- Paige
That's a great idea!
Thanks for the reply; I'll definitely share it when it's closer being done!
that's a lot better method than casting silicone around the part and cutting the mold in half to free the part.
Great video guys!!
So, were the gaps present in the original barrel (eg, around the cylinder) drilled out on the final pull?
Fantastic video! Question: can an actual handgun be used without harm to the item? I make leather holsters and have need for casts or unusual items that can only be cast from the original gun, or gun & scope/light. Thanks.
Theoretically yes, the silicone shouldn't adhere to the metal. You'd just want to make sure you have any open cavities blocked up with clay before molding, and I imagine you'll need to do a pretty thorough cleaning after the fact.
@@punishedprops thanks.
Thanks for this one Bill, fantastic. I’m off to mold . . . Stuff!!!!
Fantastic! Can't wait to see what you make!
- Paige
Awesome video guys. Should I use Sulfur free HARD clay, or MEDIUM? Thanks!
I personally prefer a more medium clay.
@@punishedprops I saw you guys used the EM-217. It doesn't say the level of hardness it is, but if it's what you guys used, then I'm gonna order that same one. It comes in 50lbs bags and that's a lot of clay for my project, but it's quite inexpensive. I just don't know if it's sulfur free, but if it didn't react negatively with your silicone it shouldn't with the Polytek I'm using. Thanks so much!
OK I kind of flipped when I saw the duster gas hot glue cooling trick. Total "why didn't I think of that" moment, will be useing that for sure, thanks man! =D
Handy to keep a can in your pocket when you walk your dog and have to pick up its little hot steaming parcels in a plastic bag :)
do I need to sand and primer my 3d print before making a mold and cast to remove any layer lines?
Hello I've seen your work amazing. i was wondering what could i use for a under suit but were its a rubber that has a good stretch to like the kind of rubber that was used for RoboCop under suit in the 2014 film
Question! If I make a foam gun.... can a mold be made from that?? I would think not but I figured I’d ask.
Wow pretty awesome, how do I go about heating an ace of spades from you guys?
We no longer have the mold, but our pal ZProps sells a really great kit: www.zprops.net/store/p18/Destiny_Ace_of_Spades_Hand_Cannon_Pistol_Prop_%282_part_resin_kit%29.html
Could this be used to cast metal objects or just resin and plastic? Nice video by the way.
There are only a couple of low temp metals that would work in a silicone mold, like pewter. Although that much molten pewter would probably destroy a mold like this.
I love what you guys do, keep It up
Will do!
I don’t have the space or the ability to do the silicone molding, if i send you my prop do you think you can make the mold for me?
Black armory is out and an exotic sniper came with it. Its called Izanagi's Burden. Do you guys mind making it?
How do you clean up any left over resin residue in your mixing/pouring containers? Or are they throwaways when you're done?
I can’t answer for the guys, of course, but I have some tiny moulds that I fill with any leftovers, then make fridge magnets with them as add on gifts for friends/customers/random people on the street. If you look on AliExpress or eBay for silicon ice cube moulds, you can find some great shapes for a couple of dollars.
You can usually pull the resin out of these cups once it's cured and then wipe out any residue.
Loved the video. Do you have any estimates on the cost of the mold and cost of the resin used? Just curious on it. Loved the video. Thanks for always making great content!
I would guess we ended up using ~$50-$60 worth of silicone on this mold.
I want to make a silicone Facehugger what kind of silicone would you use? I also want the tell and all the digits to be poseable I have ideas on how to do this but I would appreciate anything you have to offer as well.
I'd ask the folks at Smooth-On! Their customer service is excellent and they know all their products really well.
what résine you used here ??
Where the mold halves come together in the space behind the cylinder, did they not mesh perfectly?
Not complaining, just wondering if it was something to watch out for, pretty sure I saw a registration nub down in that gap on the cast.
They lined up just fine, but a little bit of resin squeezed between the mold halves. This is known as "flash" or "flashing" and can be trimmed away from the final casting.
@@punishedprops Sweet, I had hoped that was the case, a misalign that far from the edges would have been a pain :-(
Love the channel :-)
This is my fav gun in D2
0 days glitter free. LOL
Spoiler: *every* day is zero days glitter free.
First thing I saw as well and wanted to know as well. What happened with the glitter?
It reminds me of the Adam Savage's story of the stop motion animation horror stories :)
@@AaronSchmidt52 Strippers is one possibility...
Have ya'll ever tried using acorn nuts for the registration marks rather than doing them by hand?
Can you tell us how the original part was made? I used a filament 3d printer and the cast makes everything looks like it was 3d printer. Also what is the cost for getting set up for all of this?
The original is 3D printed and sanded. Your cost depends entirely on what you're making a mold of and how large it is
Do you have any recommendations for the degassing chamber? Like how long to leave the silicone in there for, what pressure to set the vacuum at? Thanks!
It depends on the silicone, but you typically leave it until the silicone bubbles up and then settles again
This was an excellent tutorial, thanks so much :)
You're welcome! =)
If you intend to use Chrome on a prop like this. Would you 2k clear coat the master. Or the casts that come out ? I'm thinking if done before you can just cast and chrome right away.
Doing a clear coat like that before making the mold will certainly help with your surface quality, but you'd still want to lay down a gloss black layer before chroming.
God I want to play destiny with these people!
Can you use a two part mold like this to make objects out of foam?
I'm not sure how, unless you used expanding foam, but then you'd want a rigid mold rather than a flexible one
@@punishedprops Ok thank you
I'm hoping you guys can help me. I am trying to make a 2 part mold but cant get past the conception phase. I have a 3d print piece that happens to be a piece of celery. The issue is, the leaf are at different angles and there are four stalks. I just dont know where to "cut it in half" because the object isnt symeytical and I think it would have floating rubber. I have been sitting here thinking for the last hour. Please help
how much temperature range silicone mold can withstand? I am about thinking to use this material for plastic injection.
Is there a trick to getting the clay softer? I purchased some non-hardening clay to build up my mold, but it feels very hard and it is difficult to get around all the details of my model. Thanks!
Heat! Work it for a while with your hands, let it sit in the sun, hit it with a hair dryer, etc. That's the trick we use with monster clay or Plastaline
7:30 When you flip over the half poured half of the mold/cast how ginger do you need to be to prevent the semi-cured part falling out of the mold?
There's actually a decently strong bond between the silicone and the resin - an airtight seal, essentially. If you don't jostle it too much it should be fine to flip and place on the other half, provided you've let it cure long enough to be tacky.
Can you please do a video where you make a handheld fire prop for cosplays like ghost rider and triss merigold from the Witcher??
How did you know I needed to learn how to make a mold?!
Can you recommend a resin or casting material that is similar to ABS plastic? Mostly, light and very resilient?
Also... Can I please come tour the studio!? I'm just getting my teeth into youtube as a prop maker for nerf and rwby things and could use senpais help
For specific types of resins, I would ask the folks at Smooth-On directly. They're super helpful: twitter.com/smoothon
This was act a very well made vid and ver interesting. Thanks 👍🏼
since I'm not seeing anyone ask, I assume you wouldn't do any more to sell so where would you recommend buying a mold like that?
Typically people don't sell molds, they only sell castings out of the mold. But you can use this tutorial to make your own molds!
how much would a mold like this cost to make, and about how many uses would one give if taken care of?
It depends on what silicone you use, how large the mold is, and also how much you have to stretch and pull the silicone to de-mold. I've had some molds last years, while others only go for a few months.
Would this work to make blue guns for holster making
I was wanting to make a hollow, plastic, glowing, meteorite, with no seems. How do I make it?
Want... I want that hand cannon.... I've never played Destiny but Cayde-6 is awesome.
There are some great resin kits out there. Here's one from ZProps: www.zprops.net/store/p18/Destiny_Ace_of_Spades_Hand_Cannon_Pistol_Prop_%282_part_resin_kit%29.html
very cool to watch . . .
Hears: "I went and cut out a couple pieces of half-inch plywood..."
Sees: Half-inch OSB being cut.
could anyone tell me why you would mold it instead of just 3d printing it? i understand that you dont have to use alot of time sanding it, but isnt the molded plastic alot more expensive?
RIP CAYDE6 😭😭😭😭
So informative!!! Thank you!!!
You're so very welcome!
The other way you could measure how much silicone you need is to put the box on a scale then zero it, then fill it with water. The weight of the water is equal to the amount of silicone you need in fl oz.
painting video soon? great tutorial!
I didn't get a casting of the pistol yet, but once I do I'll see if I can do a painting video.
Just quick question: why were all your registration pegs round and not paths? Been currious why some people mix holes and tracks into the clay
I've always used round registration and it's worked for me. Everyone has their favorite methods.
thanks. makes sense to me
thinking about making my own upper and lower intake boots
Love this video! Thanks for the help too :)
Can u give us the 3D file so we can print our own ace of spades?
good friend, what is the mix gray you use to make the prop? sorry my bad english
That's a urethane resin. Links to the products we used are in the video description.
looking at the thumbnail I was thinking that you did Mateba M-M2007 autorevolver from GITS
How durable is the resin you used compared to 3d printed pla?
A lot of that depends on how thick or thin the resin/print walls are. Resin can be brittle but it stands up better to force from multiple directions, whereas prints can delaminate and come apart where the layers meet.
How many time can that mold be used?
How would you go about making a mold out of a cap gun or Airsoft gun? I'm concerned about making stunt replicas of weapons with large internal voids and moving parts that silicone could leak into.
You can use clay to plug up any parts that you don't want to get silicone into. It's a pain to do, and you'll need to take apart the airsoft gun after molding to get all the clay out, but it can be done.
Whats the name in tinkerkad or on what web is it
Could you make a titanfall 2 pulse blade armor tutorial please?