Great video - thanks for posting! Adding a layer of laminating resin like EpoxAmite 102 with the glass cloth can provide additional strength without adding much weight.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Your glass reinforcement you put in wasnt saturated with epoxy so it won't give you the reinforcement you are looking for. Definitely grab some EpoxAmite and wet your glass cloth out.
Punished Props You absolutely need to cast the infinity blade from Infinity Blade 3 using this method. Has a ring/hole hilt similar to this dagger and I think you would be very pleased with the outcome!!
@Bill, Try this.....use your molds open when pouring the foam. This will allow it to freely expand without bowing the mold unless there is a deep pocket in the mold as it will freely expand in all directions. When done slice the foam off flush. You can then use epoxy or adhesive to bond the two halves together (closing the mold and banding). Remove from the mold and trim the flash. You can then reinforce the mold seam with a layer of fiberglass/epoxy. Fill and sand as normal. For larger projects you may want to use more than one layer of fiberglass layup. I work in the aerospace industry and I suggest looking at how they make composite layups (with and without core material) for ideas how to do similar approaches using both male and female molds. You end up with lightweight and structurally sound parts.
Damn, this is a really clever method. I've been really wanting to make a Hedron Blade replica without it being ridiculously heavy or flimsy and this seems like a great way to go about it.
Experimenting with different new approaches is a great thing with every craft, it prevents people from getting trapped in their routine and sometime it can create a way for something truly better and exciting. I always love to see such videos:) And I am curious about how will you continue with this new technique:)
Dear Bill and Brittany I just received your book "Foamsmith one" and I've been amazed by your work so thank you and keep up the good work . PS. Thank you for such a fast delivery
Thank you for this! It's much easier for me to source fiberglass and epoxy where I am (compared to urethane resin) and I'd been looking for an alternate casting material. This is a huge help and I can't wait to try it out in a future project!
Great stuff as usual. Couple of additional throughs for you: Epoxy is much friendlier to most other plastics than typical fiberglass resins which will melt anything in the polystyrene family, they are far less toxic, and not explosive when outgassing. Consider using some of the additives that allow you to thicken the epoxy, kind of like Bonds putty, then you can build up a rim/lip around each side of the mold interior that will form a better bonding surface between the halves and help prevent leakage if you backfill with the expanding foam. There are several types of “fiberglass” materials you can use and should experiment with; fiber Matt is great for internal structures as it conforms really well to and I’m shapes and adds goos structural integrity, there are also heavier duty roving and lighter weigh (smoother) scrim cloths that are worth mixing in depending on your goals. Tap Plastics has all of these and more (check out the Carbon/Kevlar weaves) and you can usually find these at your local marine / boat supply store. Keep in mind that raw epoxy is UV sensitive and will break down in sunlight unless you use a UV protective additive or top coat with something UV blocking (paint). Epoxy works great as a top coat to your foam carvings too - things like horns and detail pieces can really benefit from a couple of light coats of epoxy (and you can use fiberglass reinforcement at joints); it gives a great smooth painting surface. Remember that you should do subsequent coats while the epoxy is still tacky to get good bonding adhesion (timing depends on your specific mix - do read the instructions). If it’s no longer tacky, you should “scuff up” the surface with 120 grit sand paper and wipe away the dust with acetone or rubbing alcohol (depending on what your substrate is - acetone will eat many plastics but not epoxy).
Typos: “Bonds putty” = Bondo putty “fiber Matt ... to and I’m shapes” = “ fiber matt... to interior shapes” CRITICAL: Epoxy MUST be mixed at exactly the stated rations for the product you are using or it will not cure properly; it’s not like fiberglass resin. Don’t guess or “fudge” it - use proper measuring cups or automatic portioning dispensers (like on the West Systems epoxies) to get it right. Otherwise you’ll end up with a sticky gooey mess that will never cure.
if you're interested a suggestion, i'm attempting to make my own faux-stacked stone you can find online (because they are *CRAZY* EXPENSIVE). but since i'm completely new to casting, i don't know the best way to do it. and the upside for you making this video is that i haven't been able to find _anyone_ who's posted a video of this. btw, thanks for your other videos-they saved me from making several rather costly mistakes while experimenting!
Fantastic. I always like seeing experiments. I often want to adjust the weight of my props. More often I want to add weight, especially with 3D printed stuff. As soon as I have the money I'm going to experiment with making some "stunt" replicas with PT Flex 70.
Great idea. One thing to avoid deformation you can let the epoxy totally cure first so it gains hardness, and then before demolding, fill it with foam afterwards. Also, slushing in a layer of urethane or epoxy before the foam should help to avoid foam leaks
I'm not set up to do this sort of thing yet but as always you inspire me to reach further and give me ideas to squirrel away in the roledex portion of my lizard brain.
for things ofthat size and when also using such high expansion: when you pour the bubbly pre-foam liquid in: after you slosh it around, pour the excess out. if i were a GI Joe my callsign would be Lonely, i'd have flight and a 30ft sword.. your video inspires me greatly and i thank you.
I have a 4' She-ra sword down in Tacoma that we are planning to cast using a plaster mother mold and silicon detail mold, epoxy and fiber glass. Mother mold is made, just waiting on the silicon to be delivered. Didn't think about filling it with the AB foam. Might have to consider it.
my first and only cosplay was hei, i would recognize that dagger anywhere, especially because it's the only part i actually did well all those years ago :p
You can use a product call Q-Cel... hollow microspheres that can be added to just about anything, resins, urethanes etc... makes it light weight strong...
Nice video. Have you heard of rondo? It's a mixture of resin and bondo. Some people use it instead of fiberglass mat. It not that rigid as fiberglass but it's strength is enough for armors and props
Punished Props Expoxy Resins are not anywhere nearly as toxic as Fiberglass resins. In addition, they aren’t explosive and don’t melt polystyrene. Still a good idea to use an organic cartridge respirator, but much safer than traditional fiberglass resins. One other thing to consider with Epoxy resins; they are UV sensitive and will break down unless you add a UV protective powder or top coat with a blocking layer (like paint).
30x expanding foam?! I wish I saw this video before I went out and bought a bunch of expanding insulation foam for my current (not cosplay-related) project.
Excellent 🙂👍 you could try filling it in with some Smooth on 300 or 65 D rotocast, (Pour a layer of it to add a bit more strength to the inside still be hollow and light but you have the benefit of it bonding to the inside fibreglass 🤔(hopefully 😂)🤞
maybe that district 9 rifle, a rocket launcher of sorts that have alot of fine details NOT a typical rpg something with fancy ornaments and stuff, really large and broad swords basically big stuff where weights gonna def be a thing
Have you tried using silicone brushes? They are re-usable with a lot of resins and epoxys. Once cured you can just peel it off the brush and it is ready to go for the next project.
can a polyurethane or epoxy resin could be used in a rigid ABS plastic mold? would the rigidness of the plastic prevent the removal of the hardened resin?
Awesome Vid. I have a question in regards to resin selection I have started making 2x 2 part silicon molds for my Gel Blaster (airsoft) pistol but i have been questioning what type of resin to use im just not sure as it needs to be impact resistant and durable. would you have any recommendations . Thanks :)
I just watched the jazz video where he made the design and then the video of you guys showing the axe,I'm curious, how much would it cost to make a weapon? I love swords fantasy and sci Also staffs
Would it be helpful to have the second layer be a different color from the first so you know where you've applied it and where you haven't to help avoid those thin spots?
Please help! Is there any way to create a mold that is basically a twisted sword? Not just one blade but two, spiraling together. It’s the spear of Longinus from evangelion if you’re curious- any tips on what to create the initial model with? I was thinking of using thermoplastic but I want to be able to use a translucent material and for it to be super clean, thermoplastic usually ends up kind of DIY looking if u know what I mean?
Wow! This looks like it could be revolutionary for the prop making community! Also, do you have any suggestions for the sanding sticks/files you use for sanding details? I want to get some but don't want to waste any money on tools that wont exactly work for what I'm looking to do!
So, when casting props in some form of resin, I notice that it's fairly common to place the resin in a vacuum to remove excess air to provide a clear even product, given this kind of shell and fill design you've made here would it be beneficial to instead agitate the resin before placing it in as a core filler of this prop, reducing the overall weight while adding structure and substance to the prop? if so, I wonder what sort of weight difference you would see between a part like this filled solid vs the shell filled with resin that has been intentionally aerated.
Just discovered this channel -- REALLY great ideas, knowledge and skills! I'll be using a lot of the skills I'm discovering from you guys 😊 I have a question I need answeing though: eventually I'll be wanting to build some hard armor pieces that could be cast or composite wet-laid in a mold. These will be an hard outer layer for motorcycle riding and would need to take some SERIOUS impacts -- can you recommend any materials that are tough, abrasion-resistant etc but do not require injection molding in a metal mold? FYI, they will be backed with impact foam and D3O molecular armor which meet CE impact safety standards: the hard armor is mostly to look bad-ass, but it mustn't be brittle or 'easily' smashed.
This is an interesting technique. Would there be any instances where this might be preferable to your other method of filling the center with a block of insulation foam?
With this technique, if you wanted to run wires or Fiber Optics for light effect I assume you would want to do that before adding foam. Are there any concerns or precautions to take with that?
I was wanting to make a seamless plastic meteorite. All I have is a paper mache meteor & plaster. I was thinking of making a plaster mold of the mache prop, heating up a plastic pop bottle & expand it with compressed air to fill in the plaster mold. Would that work?
I'm not sure, I haven't tried doing something like that before. I always encourage doing some smaller scale tests when thinking of how to tackle something.
Would the results change if you held it together with wood and used expanding foam? The pressure from the foam expanding couldve been caused by rubber bands not holding the mold as rigid and it should be
Great Video. Why not just put a small amout of the exanding oam in half the mold, and then put the other half of the mold on (then rubberband it. Weight it. Whatever you would do to heep the halves together.)
Hey Bill!! Was curious if you thought that the fiberglass was durable enough for the blade or do you think you might need some dowel rods in there for extra strength?
So I have a total noob question and I hope you'll bear with me. I want to make props for a magic trick, specifically a character that ends up in three pieces: a head, an upper body and a lower body that are all roughly cube shaped and the same dimensions. They need to be able to stack. The final product needs to be lightweight, paintable and durable. The obvious solution would be to sculpt the original, create a mold and then be able to cast and paint as many as I needed. Could you offer suggestions on what to use in order to sculpt, what kind of mold and what to cast it in? I have zero experience. My first attempt at this was using carved balsa as an original. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
almost a year as past since you've uploaded this video. A lot has change since then, mainly your shop hehe. Can we expect you to be brave enough to do your District 9 rifle soon ?
Hey Bill, could you maybe pick out the details with the brush, close the mold and slush cast the rest of it? that way you'd get a similar coating on the inside without the issue of weaker seams, then put the expanding foam in. Just a thought, I haven't done any silicone molds or castings yet so don't have the experience but I'd just be concerned that even painting on the seams would mean that there's an area it could pull apart from.
Hi, just asking.. I purchased your ebook foamsmithing vol 1 and 2. I lost the copies due to virus on my pc. Can i download it again? I purchased them back in 2015. I only have paypal invoice payment.
Hello I'm wondering when you're mixing your resin to do the props can you add say shredded fiberglass fibers into the resin mix and then poured into the mold and have it come out without too many fibers poking up the sides of the resin and if you had that happen is it possible to send it and get them smooth?
Punished Props Academy , ok, I was thinking of filling a mold with resin or the plastic urathane and then put the fibers and keep going like that, but I'm not sure lol
Now would this be more expensive or less expensive compared to just using urethane resin. I know the upsides about it being lighter is a great factor in doing it this way but also curious about the expense
Interesting info. Thanks for sharing! But I do wonder how durable a prop would be long-term with only epoxicoat and fiberglass cloth walls. Have you tried to break that dagger or plan to put it through any stress tests?
But how would it work for a large sword? If you can could you show your process for that? I'm hoping to someday make a replica wilderness sword from the MMORPG RuneScape (it's big)
I assume you do not let the two halves cure completely before closing the mold. But do you wait a short time till it just starts to set up then put the two halves together?
Great video - thanks for posting! Adding a layer of laminating resin like EpoxAmite 102 with the glass cloth can provide additional strength without adding much weight.
Thanks for sharing, guys! =D
Nice to see you here, hope you comment on more cosplay/prop/maker videos.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Your glass reinforcement you put in wasnt saturated with epoxy so it won't give you the reinforcement you are looking for. Definitely grab some EpoxAmite and wet your glass cloth out.
Punished Props You absolutely need to cast the infinity blade from Infinity Blade 3 using this method. Has a ring/hole hilt similar to this dagger and I think you would be very pleased with the outcome!!
@Bill, Try this.....use your molds open when pouring the foam. This will allow it to freely expand without bowing the mold unless there is a deep pocket in the mold as it will freely expand in all directions. When done slice the foam off flush. You can then use epoxy or adhesive to bond the two halves together (closing the mold and banding). Remove from the mold and trim the flash. You can then reinforce the mold seam with a layer of fiberglass/epoxy. Fill and sand as normal. For larger projects you may want to use more than one layer of fiberglass layup.
I work in the aerospace industry and I suggest looking at how they make composite layups (with and without core material) for ideas how to do similar approaches using both male and female molds. You end up with lightweight and structurally sound parts.
Amazing! Brilliant idea with the fiberglass cloth. And, thank you for showing how the foam deformed the epoxy shell.
Damn, this is a really clever method. I've been really wanting to make a Hedron Blade replica without it being ridiculously heavy or flimsy and this seems like a great way to go about it.
Experimenting with different new approaches is a great thing with every craft, it prevents people from getting trapped in their routine and sometime it can create a way for something truly better and exciting. I always love to see such videos:) And I am curious about how will you continue with this new technique:)
I've been asking this blade for years on the Man At Arms videos. The prop version is really cool too.
I saw the thumbnail and had to click. 4:06 It's Hei's knife from DTB!!!!
0 days glitter free. That made me chuckle.
Dear Bill and Brittany I just received your book "Foamsmith one" and I've been amazed by your work so thank you and keep up the good work . PS. Thank you for such a fast delivery
Hurray!
Thank you for this! It's much easier for me to source fiberglass and epoxy where I am (compared to urethane resin) and I'd been looking for an alternate casting material. This is a huge help and I can't wait to try it out in a future project!
Fantastic!
Thanks for sharing your results! I'm excited to try this on my
That's brilliant Bill!! Great technique you found there, I'm going to have to try that out
Thanks so much Zac! =D
Great stuff as usual. Couple of additional throughs for you: Epoxy is much friendlier to most other plastics than typical fiberglass resins which will melt anything in the polystyrene family, they are far less toxic, and not explosive when outgassing. Consider using some of the additives that allow you to thicken the epoxy, kind of like Bonds putty, then you can build up a rim/lip around each side of the mold interior that will form a better bonding surface between the halves and help prevent leakage if you backfill with the expanding foam. There are several types of “fiberglass” materials you can use and should experiment with; fiber Matt is great for internal structures as it conforms really well to and I’m shapes and adds goos structural integrity, there are also heavier duty roving and lighter weigh (smoother) scrim cloths that are worth mixing in depending on your goals. Tap Plastics has all of these and more (check out the Carbon/Kevlar weaves) and you can usually find these at your local marine / boat supply store. Keep in mind that raw epoxy is UV sensitive and will break down in sunlight unless you use a UV protective additive or top coat with something UV blocking (paint).
Epoxy works great as a top coat to your foam carvings too - things like horns and detail pieces can really benefit from a couple of light coats of epoxy (and you can use fiberglass reinforcement at joints); it gives a great smooth painting surface. Remember that you should do subsequent coats while the epoxy is still tacky to get good bonding adhesion (timing depends on your specific mix - do read the instructions). If it’s no longer tacky, you should “scuff up” the surface with 120 grit sand paper and wipe away the dust with acetone or rubbing alcohol (depending on what your substrate is - acetone will eat many plastics but not epoxy).
Typos:
“Bonds putty” = Bondo putty
“fiber Matt ... to and I’m shapes” = “ fiber matt... to interior shapes”
CRITICAL: Epoxy MUST be mixed at exactly the stated rations for the product you are using or it will not cure properly; it’s not like fiberglass resin. Don’t guess or “fudge” it - use proper measuring cups or automatic portioning dispensers (like on the West Systems epoxies) to get it right. Otherwise you’ll end up with a sticky gooey mess that will never cure.
What a beautiful technique. Thanks so much for sharing with us.
if you're interested a suggestion, i'm attempting to make my own faux-stacked stone you can find online (because they are *CRAZY* EXPENSIVE). but since i'm completely new to casting, i don't know the best way to do it. and the upside for you making this video is that i haven't been able to find _anyone_ who's posted a video of this. btw, thanks for your other videos-they saved me from making several rather costly mistakes while experimenting!
Fantastic. I always like seeing experiments. I often want to adjust the weight of my props. More often I want to add weight, especially with 3D printed stuff.
As soon as I have the money I'm going to experiment with making some "stunt" replicas with PT Flex 70.
That is a neat idea and a really useful concept. Thanks for sharing this and I might try this on some of my molds.
You're welcome!
Dude...SO glad you posted this, I was looking for a good method of casting the Equilibrium M9 guns I'll be making. This fits the bill (heh) perfectly.
Ooh excellent!
ALSO, that's Rebound 40 silicone you used for the knife, yeah?
Great idea. One thing to avoid deformation you can let the epoxy totally cure first so it gains hardness, and then before demolding, fill it with foam afterwards. Also, slushing in a layer of urethane or epoxy before the foam should help to avoid foam leaks
Good idea with the leak prevention!
I'm not set up to do this sort of thing yet but as always you inspire me to reach further and give me ideas to squirrel away in the roledex portion of my lizard brain.
for things ofthat size and when also using such high expansion: when you pour the bubbly pre-foam liquid in: after you slosh it around, pour the excess out.
if i were a GI Joe my callsign would be Lonely, i'd have flight and a 30ft sword.. your video inspires me greatly and i thank you.
SUPER AWESOME! Thanks, Bill!
You're welcome!
I have a 4' She-ra sword down in Tacoma that we are planning to cast using a plaster mother mold and silicon detail mold, epoxy and fiber glass. Mother mold is made, just waiting on the silicon to be delivered. Didn't think about filling it with the AB foam. Might have to consider it.
Someone's been watching Darker than Black
my thoughts exactly XD
yashiro otonashi - Its still in my todo list.
??
Hei would be proud
my first and only cosplay was hei, i would recognize that dagger anywhere, especially because it's the only part i actually did well all those years ago :p
I am currently trying to make a power sword (blackstar cartoon)with poor results .......video was very helpful! Thank you!
I might be trying this for my Destiny rifle for Dragon Con this year.
I would like to see more of this technique.
You can use a product call Q-Cel... hollow microspheres that can be added to just about anything, resins, urethanes etc... makes it light weight strong...
Hei that's a nice dagger
Nice video. Have you heard of rondo? It's a mixture of resin and bondo. Some people use it instead of fiberglass mat. It not that rigid as fiberglass but it's strength is enough for armors and props
I've heard of rondo, but I've never had a reason to try it.
Great experiment , going have to try it
Please make a giant sword from world of warcraft! This technique is perfect for those!
Actually, a rather brilliant method, employing both epoxy and expanded foam within a mold.
Should make for good detailed lightweight props.
Never thought epoxy could be used that way. 😁great vid.
awesome this was very helpful...oh and i don't know if you remember me but i found a template for the hollow mask i asked about a few days ago.
Hey Bill what kind of respirator/protection do you use when you work with fiberglass? I heard it's some nasty stuff.
I use a 6001 respirator cartridge.
Thanks a lot!
Punished Props Expoxy Resins are not anywhere nearly as toxic as Fiberglass resins. In addition, they aren’t explosive and don’t melt polystyrene. Still a good idea to use an organic cartridge respirator, but much safer than traditional fiberglass resins. One other thing to consider with Epoxy resins; they are UV sensitive and will break down unless you add a UV protective powder or top coat with a blocking layer (like paint).
0 days glitter free... who done it
Toasted Bagel YOU WHAT?!
That's it, I need more glitter now.
30x expanding foam?! I wish I saw this video before I went out and bought a bunch of expanding insulation foam for my current (not cosplay-related) project.
SDG Danny smooth on has something similar Foam it up to 18x
Hey, I didn't know about Smooth-On. Thanks for telling me about them!
SDG Danny welcome 🙂
Make the sword from Farscape that K' Dargo uses with this process. The design is similar to your dagger just much bigger.
Excellent 🙂👍
you could try filling it in with some Smooth on 300 or 65 D rotocast, (Pour a layer of it to add a bit more strength to the inside still be hollow and light but you have the benefit of it bonding to the inside fibreglass 🤔(hopefully 😂)🤞
Awesome tutorial!
maybe that district 9 rifle, a rocket launcher of sorts that have alot of fine details NOT a typical rpg something with fancy ornaments and stuff, really large and broad swords basically big stuff where weights gonna def be a thing
yoooooooo I love me some darker then black!!!
Great video! thank you for doing this!
Have you tried using silicone brushes? They are re-usable with a lot of resins and epoxys. Once cured you can just peel it off the brush and it is ready to go for the next project.
I'll have to check those out.
How'd you make those registration nubbins in your negative mold?? super cool!
That's part of the two part mold making process. More here: punishedprops.com/how-to-make-a-mold/
can a polyurethane or epoxy resin could be used in a rigid ABS plastic mold? would the rigidness of the plastic prevent the removal of the hardened resin?
yeah for the dagger you could have used another thin layer of the epoxy and fiber glass on the inside before you put it together
Specifically, use Epoxamite to laminate the resin after your Epoxacoat surface coat.
This is really cool!
Love the "0: days glitter free" sign =)
Spoiler: *Every* day is 0 days glitter free.
with monster hunter world coming out you could do an armor set and weapon from that. a great sword or hammer would be a perfect excuse to use it.
Awesome Vid. I have a question in regards to resin selection I have started making 2x 2 part silicon molds for my Gel Blaster (airsoft) pistol but i have been questioning what type of resin to use im just not sure as it needs to be impact resistant and durable. would you have any recommendations . Thanks :)
'0 days glitter free'... I feel ya. Ever notice your cats seem to find the glitter even after you think you've cleaned it all up?
I just watched the jazz video where he made the design and then the video of you guys showing the axe,I'm curious, how much would it cost to make a weapon?
I love swords fantasy and sci
Also staffs
Oh.. My.. God.. BRILLIANT!
**Runs off to workshop**
Would it be helpful to have the second layer be a different color from the first so you know where you've applied it and where you haven't to help avoid those thin spots?
Sure! If you find your castings have thin spots, tinting the epoxy layers would definitely help.
Please help! Is there any way to create a mold that is basically a twisted sword? Not just one blade but two, spiraling together. It’s the spear of Longinus from evangelion if you’re curious- any tips on what to create the initial model with? I was thinking of using thermoplastic but I want to be able to use a translucent material and for it to be super clean, thermoplastic usually ends up kind of DIY looking if u know what I mean?
Wow! This looks like it could be revolutionary for the prop making community!
Also, do you have any suggestions for the sanding sticks/files you use for sanding details? I want to get some but don't want to waste any money on tools that wont exactly work for what I'm looking to do!
I like these sanding twigs: amzn.to/2D6HVcf
So, when casting props in some form of resin, I notice that it's fairly common to place the resin in a vacuum to remove excess air to provide a clear even product, given this kind of shell and fill design you've made here would it be beneficial to instead agitate the resin before placing it in as a core filler of this prop, reducing the overall weight while adding structure and substance to the prop? if so, I wonder what sort of weight difference you would see between a part like this filled solid vs the shell filled with resin that has been intentionally aerated.
Just discovered this channel -- REALLY great ideas, knowledge and skills!
I'll be using a lot of the skills I'm discovering from you guys 😊
I have a question I need answeing though: eventually I'll be wanting to build some hard armor pieces that could be cast or composite wet-laid in a mold. These will be an hard outer layer for motorcycle riding and would need to take some SERIOUS impacts -- can you recommend any materials that are tough, abrasion-resistant etc but do not require injection molding in a metal mold?
FYI, they will be backed with impact foam and D3O molecular armor which meet CE impact safety standards: the hard armor is mostly to look bad-ass, but it mustn't be brittle or 'easily' smashed.
I would ask the folks over at Smooth On for material recommendations. www.smooth-on.com
Can you use epoxy (glue/ adhesive) that comes in the 2 part syringe found at hardware stores to cast parts?
What brand of laminating resin you used?
This is an interesting technique. Would there be any instances where this might be preferable to your other method of filling the center with a block of insulation foam?
Certainly! I will say, this technique takes quite a bit longer. It really just depends on how much weight you need to save and how much time you have.
Ah, thanks for being awesome :) I've yet to delve into molding but your tutorials on the matter are very informative.
With this technique, if you wanted to run wires or Fiber Optics for light effect I assume you would want to do that before adding foam. Are there any concerns or precautions to take with that?
Yeah you could totally do that! I'm not sure if there's anything you need to keep in mind.
I was wanting to make a seamless plastic meteorite. All I have is a paper mache meteor & plaster. I was thinking of making a plaster mold of the mache prop, heating up a plastic pop bottle & expand it with compressed air to fill in the plaster mold. Would that work?
I'm not sure, I haven't tried doing something like that before. I always encourage doing some smaller scale tests when thinking of how to tackle something.
Would the results change if you held it together with wood and used expanding foam? The pressure from the foam expanding couldve been caused by rubber bands not holding the mold as rigid and it should be
Yeah wood would have helped a lot.
Great Video. Why not just put a small amout of the exanding oam in half the mold, and then put the other half of the mold on (then rubberband it. Weight it. Whatever you would do to heep the halves together.)
Expanding foam is great for taking up space, but it is fairly soft compared to the epoxy. You could dent it with a fingernail.
Hey Bill, Peter Brown is the epoxy master on UA-cam. I'm sure his wealth of knowledge could be useful to you.
Fantastic!
Can you post a break test? I'm curious how much abuse this hollow method can take.
I chuckled after spotting the '0 Days Glitter Free' sign. You're not going to get rid of the stuff once you spill it out of the box...
Spoiler: We're *always* at 0 days glitter free.
Hey Bill!! Was curious if you thought that the fiberglass was durable enough for the blade or do you think you might need some dowel rods in there for extra strength?
It depends on the specific project, but I think Volpin's 6 foot sword did not have a dowel down the blade.
Don't you think the fiberglass made it the real thing? It can kill someone now.
So I have a total noob question and I hope you'll bear with me. I want to make props for a magic trick, specifically a character that ends up in three pieces: a head, an upper body and a lower body that are all roughly cube shaped and the same dimensions. They need to be able to stack. The final product needs to be lightweight, paintable and durable. The obvious solution would be to sculpt the original, create a mold and then be able to cast and paint as many as I needed. Could you offer suggestions on what to use in order to sculpt, what kind of mold and what to cast it in? I have zero experience. My first attempt at this was using carved balsa as an original. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Maybe sculpt it in insulation foam, coat it in epoxy for sanding and finishing, then make a brush on silicone mold with a fiberglass mold jacket.
I love that dagger I made one of wood
would this work in a similar manner for slush casting? using more layers and fibreglass to create something lightweight?
Usually you do either slush casting or this method
almost a year as past since you've uploaded this video. A lot has change since then, mainly your shop hehe. Can we expect you to be brave enough to do your District 9 rifle soon ?
I saw the thumbnail and had to watch
yeah new video
do we need to apply mold release on this method ??
"X days glitter free" awesome
Hey Bill, could you maybe pick out the details with the brush, close the mold and slush cast the rest of it? that way you'd get a similar coating on the inside without the issue of weaker seams, then put the expanding foam in. Just a thought, I haven't done any silicone molds or castings yet so don't have the experience but I'd just be concerned that even painting on the seams would mean that there's an area it could pull apart from.
You can't really slush the epoxy, it's too thick. That approach might work for normal, urethane slush casting.
good to know :D
Hi, just asking.. I purchased your ebook foamsmithing vol 1 and 2. I lost the copies due to virus on my pc. Can i download it again? I purchased them back in 2015. I only have paypal invoice payment.
You should be able to log into your account on punishedprops.com and download them again.
have you experimented with smooth-ons free form air yet?
Not much. I have some, but I haven't had a good reason to use it yet.
Hello I'm wondering when you're mixing your resin to do the props can you add say shredded fiberglass fibers into the resin mix and then poured into the mold and have it come out without too many fibers poking up the sides of the resin and if you had that happen is it possible to send it and get them smooth?
I've never tried that before so I'm not sure if it would work.
Punished Props Academy , ok, I was thinking of filling a mold with resin or the plastic urathane and then put the fibers and keep going like that, but I'm not sure lol
Could this technique be adapted to make a lightweight helmet? How durable would it be?
It sure can be!
Now would this be more expensive or less expensive compared to just using urethane resin. I know the upsides about it being lighter is a great factor in doing it this way but also curious about the expense
The cost would likely be similar.
Try casting a nerf blaster. That would be really awesome. And then make the internals.
Interesting info. Thanks for sharing! But I do wonder how durable a prop would be long-term with only epoxicoat and fiberglass cloth walls. Have you tried to break that dagger or plan to put it through any stress tests?
I might have to do some durability tests.
I wonder if you could use the epoxy to make epoxy molds for silicone masks
I'm not sure about a mold, I've never tried! But I think you could definitely use it for a mold jacket
are there tutorials for how to makee the sword or things like it
Sweet! Have you ever tried coating xps foam with fiberglass resin?
I think polyester resin will eat the XPS foam. I have used epoxy resin, like Smooth-On's Epsilon, to great effect.
Punished Props Academy awesome thanks for the insight.
But how would it work for a large sword? If you can could you show your process for that? I'm hoping to someday make a replica wilderness sword from the MMORPG RuneScape (it's big)
I don't currently have any large sword molds to try it on. Check out the Volpin link I put in the description.
Is that hei's dagger?
Would this method work for large swords like from Naruto or Final Fantasy?
Absolutely!
Why not make a LKW from Wolfenstei with that technique?
Is there a clear epoxy that could be used?
say for like Saber's Excalibur (Fate stay/night) to make an "invisible" sword?
I would ask the folks at Smooth-On.
I assume you do not let the two halves cure completely before closing the mold. But do you wait a short time till it just starts to set up then put the two halves together?
I waited about 30 mins before smooshing the halves together. They were still plenty tacky.
2:53 I feel like I'm watching one of my favorite zit popping videos.
Hey, do you have a video on making molds???
He has made us videos showing us how to make many types of molds. I've been watching them to learn how to replicate my 3d prints.
Here's everything we have on molding and casting: punishedprops.com/how-to-make-a-mold/
Good to know