Little tip for fixing the shape of the mold. Don't use just rubber bands! They'll apply an uneven pressure on the mold use pieces of wood or any hard material on two sides of the mold and then apply the rubber bands, then you'll get an evern pressure on the mold which will result in no imperfections of deformed parts.
David D is awsome!...for the folks that dislike, well there is no cure for their ailments...whatever they may be....model building requires creativity, enginuity and a lot of common sense....as well as reading the instructions for resin handling....this hobby is not for you if you don't have any sense for using gloves if you have sensitive skin....OTHERWISE....David D aks PLASMO is one of the Best and shares his thoughts, skills and knowledge. and lastly his artistry....WOOT
This is exactly why this is the Best Scale Model channel on UA-cam! It's all of the little details he puts into each and ever model that makes it for me. 👍👍
Just came across your channel. Thanks for helping beginners become familiar with more complex topics. As an Imagineer, one of the things we saw a lot were people wanting to work on features that simply didn't have enough experience. Folks, these basics can help you become far more familiar with the dynamics involved in the entire process... And you will be able to show demonstrable ability to get and retain very fun and creative positions at great companies.
I can't believe I found you right before I started collecting "Angry Space Soldiers", I saw you making molds for "Bugs" from 2016 talking about blue stuff by random luck. This is awesome.
Thank you Plasmo! This is one of the best tutorials on mold casting I have watched. You have me wanting to invest in a vacuum pump and start casting parts I have customized into parts that are not readily available. You always amaze and teach me something each time I watch your videos.
Спасибо Дэвид за идею создания дегазатора из кастрюли! Это именно то, чего у меня пока нет, но теперь я сделаю такой же и буду лить эпоксидную смолу и пластик без пузырьков!
@@ОбычныйЧеловечек-х2у Я в детстве, в классе шестом наверное, отливал солдатиков из аккумуляторного свинца в гипс, под впечатлением от прочтения книги "Кораблики и солдатики" Рюрика Попова, подаренной мне отцом. Но я даже не представляю, как дегазировать металл и нужно ли это? У меня в детстве солдатики проливались полностью, благодаря газоотводящим каналам на формочках.
When you make 2 part silicone molds, try using acorn nuts to press locating pins in your clay. They are smooth and perfectly tapered so that they pull out cleanly and even if you use the water based separators they seem to very rarely, if ever, break. If you are still worried about breaking them, use the water based separators on everything else, and use some petroleum jelly on a cheap model paint brush to paint the jelly on just the locating pins before you pour your second layer. I have had some items that required a 3 or 4 part mold to be able to get all the details and using the acorn nuts for locating pins has been the best way I've ever found to work. Also, size the nuts you use to the size of the mold you are making. The larger the mold, the larger the acorn nut. Remember, you only need 1 acorn nut threaded on a 20-25mm long screw to press in all the locating pins in your clay. That way you can afford to have them ready in several sizes depending on your mold. You never want to have too small locating pins. One last thing. If you have vacuumed your silicone, try pouring it in a very thin stream, starting in a corner of your mold, and allow it to rise up around the part, that way, if you use the fine stream, you don't get bubbles trapped, and you don't need to vacuum the mold after you have poured it. The stream size for the parts you showed casting should never be larger than 1.5-2mm in diameter.
You are truly the master! Been following your channel for a long time, but every time you manage to surprise me. Your videos were one of the major motivators to start building models, and I've learned much from them.
@@thatcabbage1258 he just tends to cut sentences in half and swap it so "This is a useful tool " becomes "Useful is this tool" kinda like how Yoda talks
Thank you for sharing this with us, I found it very easy to follow and very informative. I have some models I made that I want to cast and your video has given me everything I needed to know!
Be mindful that SLA/DLP resins often have chemicals that inhibit the curing of silicone, especially Platinum cure, that could leave your original and mold unusable without significant cleanup and loss.
What Nuke Dukem said. Tin-cure silicone usually works better for copying printed resin parts. Here's a video where someone experiments with casting copies of SLA resin models. Tin-cured work the best. ua-cam.com/video/RC9TgAO5mGo/v-deo.html
I regularly make silicone mould’s for fishing lures and use Lego to build my mould frames. The secret for making Lego frames is to carefully cover all the joins in plasticine. The silicone won’t leak out that way. Also, I use petroleum jelly as a mould release on the silicone when pouring the second half. Just brush it in VERY lightly.
Really nice video! Two things I found when casting are - i/ 'Vaseline' - aka Petroleum Jelly, is an excellent release agent for making two part silicon moulds. ii/ Dusting the inside of your moulds with Talcum Powder - aka Baby Powder [and removing any extra with a soft brush], before pouring casting resin is an excellent way of making sure even tiny details and mould cavities get filled perfectly, for best quality reproduction.
Silicone mold release with Teflon is about $12 a can, you can buy it from your local industrial supply or even Amazon. You get a much finer consistent layer without having to fight with the sticky petroleum jelly.
... you just don't go comparing the genius of this man to another completely different art - discipline... in fact, you are deep water comparing this man... period :)
You can make a very good vacuum chamber using a common pressure cooker such as is used in canning fruit and vegetables. Just put the proper brass fittings on the lid and you are good to go. Very safe and easy to do.
You sound like you're talking about pressure pot, used when casting the resin to eliminate bubbles in resin. Vacuum chambers aren't made with pressure cookers generally
@@matt9736 No, but; they can be. I've done it. If it will hold pressure, it will hold a vacuum. The same principle applies. Pressure cookers are readily available and cheap. A small amount of effort turns it into a vacuum chamber.
Great tutorial mate thanks! It's the wheels I'm needing to do for a build! This new airfix Cromwell the wheels are wrong so needing to cast my Tamiya ones for it in resin!
Congratulations! Much better than the result I've got on my video, were I failed on casting the small pieces and ended up cheating and printing stuff on my Elegoo Mars printer (^_^) and I do use lego blocks, it is more fun and I can use some hardware store silicone to seal the gaps.
Seal the Legos with clay or petroleum jelly If you don't have access to a pressure or vacuum pot, you can reduce some of the bubbles with a thin pour at height. A vibrating table (or other agitating method) can also help. For casting, some people have used pressure chambers to crush the bubbles. I've never tried it with clear parts, so I don't know how effective it might be for that. For multi part mold making, I've used silicone lubricant spray
@@Lord_Dakota it is bad for the small individual sculptors working for hours it is slightly immoral to recast for yourself but if you recast for commercial sale that is considered a fellony and is actually a pretty big crime it also breaks the copyright law so it is illegal
@@DD-bv9jl The small individual sculptor already got paid his salary by the big companies. You are only taking money away from a multimillion dollar corporation
Excellent guidance video, thanks a lot. If you wouldn't mind me giving a little advice, try saying "půr" instead of "pjůr" (pour). I had trouble understanding in context when just listening to the audio. And then maybe just "kemikls" instead of "chemikls". The rest is just pure perfection! :D Thanks again.
I used to use wet & dry sandpaper for a track surface, painted a tarmac colour complete with seams and repair patches in a slightly different glossey shade.
I am intrigued by the idea of casting jet aircraft afterburner exhaust nozzles, would you mind showing that process in more detail? I have not seen any one cover this before.
Little tip for fixing the shape of the mold. Don't use just rubber bands! They'll apply an uneven pressure on the mold use pieces of wood or any hard material on two sides of the mold and then apply the rubber bands, then you'll get an evern pressure on the mold which will result in no imperfections of deformed parts.
Good tip Adam
I use paper tape
Yup, even two piece of thick card - just to stop the elastic bands digging in or distorting the corners/edges.
I use duck tape.
Use any hard part. Thin wood, plexiglass, something that will not bend by rubber band.
Next on Plasmo; how to start your own scale model brand.
Lol😂
David D is awsome!...for the folks that dislike, well there is no cure for their ailments...whatever they may be....model building requires creativity, enginuity and a lot of common sense....as well as reading the instructions for resin handling....this hobby is not for you if you don't have any sense for using gloves if you have sensitive skin....OTHERWISE....David D aks PLASMO is one of the Best and shares his thoughts, skills and knowledge. and lastly his artistry....WOOT
This is exactly why this is the Best Scale Model channel on UA-cam!
It's all of the little details he puts into each and ever model that makes it for me. 👍👍
As an injection mould engineer I must say that your drawings are good and understandable. And you did a nice job with the moulds!
Just came across your channel. Thanks for helping beginners become familiar with more complex topics. As an Imagineer, one of the things we saw a lot were people wanting to work on features that simply didn't have enough experience. Folks, these basics can help you become far more familiar with the dynamics involved in the entire process... And you will be able to show demonstrable ability to get and retain very fun and creative positions at great companies.
Finally! Now I have to buy some equipment! I followed also your last tutorial with blue stuff.
Same here
The best mold making tutorial I've seen. Thanks !
I can't believe I found you right before I started collecting "Angry Space Soldiers", I saw you making molds for "Bugs" from 2016 talking about blue stuff by random luck. This is awesome.
Thank you Plasmo! This is one of the best tutorials on mold casting I have watched. You have me wanting to invest in a vacuum pump and start casting parts I have customized into parts that are not readily available. You always amaze and teach me something each time I watch your videos.
Спасибо Дэвид за идею создания дегазатора из кастрюли! Это именно то, чего у меня пока нет, но теперь я сделаю такой же и буду лить эпоксидную смолу и пластик без пузырьков!
@@ОбычныйЧеловечек-х2у Я в детстве, в классе шестом наверное, отливал солдатиков из аккумуляторного свинца в гипс, под впечатлением от прочтения книги "Кораблики и солдатики" Рюрика Попова, подаренной мне отцом. Но я даже не представляю, как дегазировать металл и нужно ли это? У меня в детстве солдатики проливались полностью, благодаря газоотводящим каналам на формочках.
Love ur videos from Bangladesh 🇧🇩
one of the most helpful and amazing videos I have ever seen anywhere
I have learnt something new. Thank you. I can now build my squadron of Spitfires from one Airfix kit.
Excellent tutorial, and very timely for me, as I am trying to duplicate some plastic parts on an RC airplane. As always, thank you for sharing.
Steve
He is now making his own materials, legend level
Mr. Damek you are a very good teacher!!!
I'm searching for a video like this to make things ;)
Thank you for the tutorial !
When you make 2 part silicone molds, try using acorn nuts to press locating pins in your clay. They are smooth and perfectly tapered so that they pull out cleanly and even if you use the water based separators they seem to very rarely, if ever, break. If you are still worried about breaking them, use the water based separators on everything else, and use some petroleum jelly on a cheap model paint brush to paint the jelly on just the locating pins before you pour your second layer.
I have had some items that required a 3 or 4 part mold to be able to get all the details and using the acorn nuts for locating pins has been the best way I've ever found to work.
Also, size the nuts you use to the size of the mold you are making. The larger the mold, the larger the acorn nut. Remember, you only need 1 acorn nut threaded on a 20-25mm long screw to press in all the locating pins in your clay. That way you can afford to have them ready in several sizes depending on your mold. You never want to have too small locating pins.
One last thing. If you have vacuumed your silicone, try pouring it in a very thin stream, starting in a corner of your mold, and allow it to rise up around the part, that way, if you use the fine stream, you don't get bubbles trapped, and you don't need to vacuum the mold after you have poured it. The stream size for the parts you showed casting should never be larger than 1.5-2mm in diameter.
Plasmo, thanks a lot for this great tutorial!!! :)
So glad you made a video about diy resin parts. 👏👏. Thank u very much. Will definitely save this one.
well, now I have a plan what to do during summer :D Bless to you Plasmo...
Great video, I found it really informative. Looking forward to burning myself on the resin the first time I cast something.
This is what i need for my latest sculptures! Amazing as always!
You are truly the master! Been following your channel for a long time, but every time you manage to surprise me. Your videos were one of the major motivators to start building models, and I've learned much from them.
You are legend mate, you push limits. Keep up the good work
3 people hit a dislike because they burned their skin ... slightly
Or they cant understand Rusglish
It now shows ten 👎down. I just can't fathom how this can be disliked !?
@@mullervolker9814 it's czechglish actually
39 now
@@thatcabbage1258 he just tends to cut sentences in half and swap it so "This is a useful tool "
becomes "Useful is this tool" kinda like how Yoda talks
Wonderful tutorial - I insert small hexagonal nuts into the plasticine to use as guide pins.
Thank you for sharing this with us, I found it very easy to follow and very informative. I have some models I made that I want to cast and your video has given me everything I needed to know!
Amzing well made tutorial! Top quality!
Your video is invaluable knowledge for me as I begin my model railroading adventure. Thank you!
I love your videos
excellent video, greetings from Argentina
Very interesting process on how to make a Resin casting -Silicone Mold !!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, I will probably try to make some copies of my resin prints.
Be mindful that SLA/DLP resins often have chemicals that inhibit the curing of silicone, especially Platinum cure, that could leave your original and mold unusable without significant cleanup and loss.
What Nuke Dukem said. Tin-cure silicone usually works better for copying printed resin parts.
Here's a video where someone experiments with casting copies of SLA resin models. Tin-cured work the best.
ua-cam.com/video/RC9TgAO5mGo/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot. Will try this for my S-100.
Thanks for showing this. I requested such a video shortly. It is more work than I expected, but it's not so difficult.
Thank very much, It was so well explained and I love your accent!
I regularly make silicone mould’s for fishing lures and use Lego to build my mould frames. The secret for making Lego frames is to carefully cover all the joins in plasticine. The silicone won’t leak out that way. Also, I use petroleum jelly as a mould release on the silicone when pouring the second half. Just brush it in VERY lightly.
Gotta say,always love your videos.
And thank you for these tutorial
Seen a number of videos about casting, but your`s is of a such high quality, thanks!
Really nice video! Two things I found when casting are -
i/ 'Vaseline' - aka Petroleum Jelly, is an excellent release agent for making two part silicon moulds.
ii/ Dusting the inside of your moulds with Talcum Powder - aka Baby Powder [and removing any extra with a soft brush], before pouring casting resin is an excellent way of making sure even tiny details and mould cavities get filled perfectly, for best quality reproduction.
Silicone mold release with Teflon is about $12 a can, you can buy it from your local industrial supply or even Amazon. You get a much finer consistent layer without having to fight with the sticky petroleum jelly.
Excellent explanation greetings👍
Beautiful video thanks so much 👍
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
You always amaze me with your skills.
Thank you for this useful tutorial 👍
*A full lesson of molding by PLAMSO, cool! 👍 (careful, there is a king of indigo monster in a can which makes so much bubbles!?! 👾)*
excellent method, just ordered it- thank you.
God Mode tutorial,thank for sharing.👍
Thank you for such a wonderful tutorial. I am not brave enough to try it myself but you never know.
Its fun learning how to make molds, easier with flat parts :)
The results are amazing
This guy is like a younger slavic Bob Ross.
Slavic bob ross for short
Bob Ross was in his 30's when he started painting
😂
We don't make mistakes. We only make happy little accidents.
... you just don't go comparing the genius of this man to another completely different art - discipline... in fact, you are deep water comparing this man... period :)
Very interesting video PLASMO.
Hello from spain
Thank to this tutorial i am casting too! Still a lot to learn. But thank you so much
awesome tutorial!
Best tutorial but very expensive to do it. Only 4 minutes and the guy mentioned vacuum for perfect molding 🙃
Good job! Thanks for the instruction on duplicating plastic parts.
Nice tutorial.
You can make a very good vacuum chamber using a common pressure cooker such as is used in canning fruit and vegetables. Just put the proper brass fittings on the lid and you are good to go. Very safe and easy to do.
Top man , knowledge is power
but without the clear lid it is harder to know when to stop the vacuum, isn't it?
You sound like you're talking about pressure pot, used when casting the resin to eliminate bubbles in resin. Vacuum chambers aren't made with pressure cookers generally
@@matt9736 No, but; they can be. I've done it. If it will hold pressure, it will hold a vacuum. The same principle applies. Pressure cookers are readily available and cheap. A small amount of effort turns it into a vacuum chamber.
pěkné video :D ... hodí se do budoucna :D
Thanks man, this was extremely useful ☺️👍
Highest level! Next must be making molds for high pressure plastic casting. Or how to make own decals?
Or just how to make own model brand :)
Love your videos! Keep ‘em coming!
Lol great change of pace 👍 interesting 🧐
Great tutorial mate thanks! It's the wheels I'm needing to do for a build! This new airfix Cromwell the wheels are wrong so needing to cast my Tamiya ones for it in resin!
Great tutorial, thank you.
Congratulations! Much better than the result I've got on my video, were I failed on casting the small pieces and ended up cheating and printing stuff on my Elegoo Mars printer (^_^) and I do use lego blocks, it is more fun and I can use some hardware store silicone to seal the gaps.
Very cool tutorial
Thanks for this, very interesting indeed 👍👍
great work 😀👍🏻
Отлично! Ролик просто супер 👍👍👍🖐️
great tips and thanks for sharing
Good job.
Seal the Legos with clay or petroleum jelly
If you don't have access to a pressure or vacuum pot, you can reduce some of the bubbles with a thin pour at height. A vibrating table (or other agitating method) can also help.
For casting, some people have used pressure chambers to crush the bubbles. I've never tried it with clear parts, so I don't know how effective it might be for that.
For multi part mold making, I've used silicone lubricant spray
When you will sell your own made Plasmo model kits?!
He is promoting recasting, terrible, now unsubscribed and sharing amongst the community
@@historex54tamiya hahaha you trolling right?!
@@Lord_Dakota it is bad for the small individual sculptors working for hours it is slightly immoral to recast for yourself but if you recast for commercial sale that is considered a fellony and is actually a pretty big crime
it also breaks the copyright law so it is illegal
@@DD-bv9jl The small individual sculptor already got paid his salary by the big companies. You are only taking money away from a multimillion dollar corporation
Excellent guidance video, thanks a lot. If you wouldn't mind me giving a little advice, try saying "půr" instead of "pjůr" (pour). I had trouble understanding in context when just listening to the audio. And then maybe just "kemikls" instead of "chemikls". The rest is just pure perfection! :D Thanks again.
Cool! Thanks friend!
Love it. Brilliant.
"It looks like some alien fluid" 😂 I never thought of that. but it does
Entertaining and informative!
Great video, very informative!
Thanks very helpful Peace.
flex seal its perfect liquid for any modeler =D
Smooth star is a good product.
Excellent!
Excellent
Thanks for that, most informative.
Anyone know of a release agent for modelling clay ? I tried a bit of vegetable oil once but it ended badly.
Great video!
Další supr video😉
Togohk was an ad on your channel showing compression moulding. Didn’t know that was a thing. Very fast by the look of it.
Would you like to do a track diorama for a 1:24 scale car?
I used to use wet & dry sandpaper for a track surface, painted a tarmac colour complete with seams and repair patches in a slightly different glossey shade.
@@doctordirk6316 stippling mr surfacer 1000 and sanding it with a little 4000 grit sandpaper would also work
my local model shop has just re-opend!
Yeah but you are still banned!
Awesome tutorial!
I am not going to do this like never ever :D very nice video though
Good helpful video my friend 😊👍
I am intrigued by the idea of casting jet aircraft afterburner exhaust nozzles, would you mind showing that process in more detail? I have not seen any one cover this before.
Do you think that it would be possible to cast clear parts like canopy for an airplane?
Excelent vídeo bro