I have never seen epoxy poures where you dont have to do back to check for bubbles or anything! Just pouring inside a closed container and not knowing if its ok until its cured gaved me anxiety 🤣 you're amazing!
I can’t believe that flange held the weight of that big block of rubber in the middle and didnt allow it to sag and make the floor of the cast box thinner…but it seems you pulled it off. I would have over-thunk it and tried to reinforce that part of the mold. I really appreciate the self locking parting line I just learned from you, thank you. That concept is something I have done by accident before, but now I will use it strategically. I already swore off the acorn nuts years ago in favor of a sculpted trench around the whole part which prevents resin from leaking out of a poorly clamped mold… Anyhow great video, thanks!!!
Well, you made that look easy. Its shows what, planning and time spent making custom mold boxes etc pays off in the end product. You sounded like you had time constraints and yet the order was filled. Well done, Eric.
"you made that look easy" I was thinking the same thing. I've made silicone molds myself. My molds never turned out nearly as well as Eric's molds. Thanks for another great video Eric Strebel!
I used some PVA glue to make a seal on my mould yesterday and I was wondering if it was a good idea or not. Glad to hear your approval on that method. Your videos are always insightful.
The cardboard locking mechanism is brilliant. I do not want to buy myself a laser cutter, but I do have a CNC mill. Maybe I make myself a few standard sizes of this cardboard thing, but mill it from PE. I do not think the PE will damage the silicone. Having the alignment as well as the two half locking on the very edge of the mold saves a lot of silicone
I realy enjoy this new format. Very clear, and hopefully you reduced a bit of time in the production/editing Your videos have been amazing since day 1 (for me 3000 subs.) Thanks
FELICITACIONES, entender las esencias de las cosas hace al gran resultado de tus trabajos, brillante un gran profesional. me gusta mucho aprender de usted.
I have never made a mold or casted anything before in my life, but your videos make it seem very approachable. I designed and 3d printed a part that's roughly the size you have there. Instead of being an open box like that, it's a solid one (like a cube). The part needs to be lightweight but still very durable (it will be used for ice fishing). I could email you a pic of the part. Would love your input or advice on what mold material and casting material to get for this part, before wasting a ton of money on the wrong stuff. Thanks again! Awesome videos!
How do you prevent the resin from flowing back into the pouring hole and leaving a thickening behind? The law of communicating vessels seems to apply here. I don't see any trace of the pouring hole, so how do you do that? Nice job, btw.
08:00 Just a humble newbie comment, you could hang a piece of box in such a way that you could spend less silicone for the inner (second) part of the model. 09:45 A slightly tilted funnel could be usefull.
Interesting process but the problem I have with the idea is when people take commercial items and do recasts and then sell them. Conceptually it is the same as making copies of copyrighted material and selling them for profit. A big* problem in the garage or small batch area of scale or figure modeling *well maybe not big but it is big to the kit producers And it is nice that you supply links to product suppliers
i love the self locking meganism could the be used also wen you make a mould for a plastic model car body because as in your piece you can clue it to bottom and it is seald from sillicon pooring in into the insude of the mould how too solve this problem with a body model car that is not the same hight ?
Thank you for the video. The way you did the vents and sprue gave me the exact style I need to do on my first polyurethane pour. And the way you interlocked the half's is another great idea I will incorporate into future molds for my part. It will be a on going part that I came up with. This gives me confidence of success. Do I need a reservoir of material pressure potting? Thanks again.
great job! I have done similar jobs but when cast thin walls , not have enough resistant using polyurethane and fillers like talc, did you used milled glass??
This is an astonishing video. Thanks. How much different is your polymer pour from that of polymer used for a rifle. I was interested in making some of my own rifle parts, and was curious how to make my own molds lead me to your video. This video made it seem fairly easy to set up at home, however I was wondering the structure rigidity difference between an at home pour vs factory. Mind you, I am aware of it depends on the maker , but in your case. How close do you think you could replicate the quality of strong polymer parts.
Do you have a process for color matching, or do you just go by your personal sense of the color? If you have a process, that would be a great subject for a video!
This is perfect. I'd like to resin cast some molded electronic shell parts so that I can have a semi-transparent casing on my phone. I love the guts, but black is so boring!
I'm a Vietnam Combat Marine and I purchased 4 EGA to mount on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. They are all rigid and I need to make a mold of them that I can put against the side of the truck to cast them with the proper curves to paste to the truck. I plan to paint the truck a gloss black including the EGA. I would welcome any suggestions you might have to help me. Thanks.
Would this method work the same for makimg boxes that have a lid like a rugged box case to hold cameras and electronics Obviously 2 moulds one for the box base and one for the lid
You are a boss! I'd love to get your help on casting a small part. Mould orientation, where to place vents and sprues etc. Do you have a patreon for this sort of thing?
How do you make the vent tubes, you say urethane resin in straws, and it looks like you cast the pour hole inside the funnel? What resin do you use for this, and do they need to be coated with release before pouring the top half of the mold? Thanks, great video!
Exelent video... great technique... thanks for sharing your knowledge One Question... Can you make GEARS for an E-Bike Transmission with the RESIN material you used??? Does it stand wear and some heat???
awesome video as usual Eric, can you give me a ball park on what you charge to copy a hanger is what they call it for my sony mdrxb950bt aheadset. Its the part that holds the headset or the earphones. These are the weakest part of these headsets and and they are not available anymore as a replacement parts. I was going to have them 3d printed but I don't know what is more cost effective , cast them or print them. I saw how you make your parts with resins and they look nice. please reach out to me , thank you
@@EricStrebel ok 3d print it is, can i send you a pair of good ones L and R and can you replicate them in black and how will i pay you? and if all is good where can i send them? thank you sir
Great video! Thanks! Question: could you use a dummy block in the second pouring to save some silicone? For example placing a hanging wood block in the middle of the original plastic part and then pour the silicone. This would create a big recess on the silicone but would save a lot of silicone, which is expensive. Then, when pouring the resin you could still place the wood block to make it stiffer and remove it after curing to ease the demolding.
@@EricStrebel looking at smooth on prices for their silicones, maybe a $40 or $50 savings would be expected. Also for even larger pieces could be nice to save some bucks.
I have a synthetic rifle stock, the kind that has webbing in the fore end instead of solid plastic. I'd like to fill those voids to stiffen my stock. Any suggestions on a simple plastic mix that is stiff, but will also stick well?
Great video. I want to make like 100 small parts bins for screws and stuff. What resin would you recommend? The problem is it probably won’t be more then 1/32inch thick. Maybe 4x3x3 inch. Thanks.
Hi Eric, I'd like to understand what happens with perpendicular holes that are ininside the box in each corner, that seem to be for screws or similar. How do you reproduce them on the copy?
Hello, is there way to make something like this but final product thiccker than original? I have Master in sheet metal and its to thin for plastic. Thank you
@@EricStrebel Thank very much. Ofcourse i forgot to say that your videos about molds are best on UA-cam. No like realy. They are. Anyway, my Master is piece of art from sheet metal, so i cannot remake it thiccker. But only one face of Master is important. I was hoping if there is some kind of spray that swell up in uniform layer. But if wax is best way, I´ll manage :) thank you again.
Great tutorial. Learned alot. But, could you ballpark the price for that medium sized container? I'm trying to wrap my head around the economics of purchasing 10 vs. going through the molding process.
Hi ! is it true for poliurethane pieces, that once you use some PU from its bottle, if you dont put Argon gas inside the bottle for replacin Oxigen, then the PU will be ruined becosause Oxigen make PU to be foamy? I saw it on another professional youtube channel.. Thanks
Thanks Eric! I mean, how long does a bottle size like we see in your videos without Argon? Or in what period of time you can use it without problems? Thanks again!
With such a large and precisely rectangular product, were you worried at all about the silicone mold deforming a bit without the box sides to support it and keep things square? The end product looks great, but have you run into that problem before?
Hi Eric, with the large volume in the second pore, would it be possible to block that out to save on silicone? The silicone you use can't be found in the UK -- is there something by Smooth-on that's an equivalent that you know of? Thanks!
hi, why is important to dgas in the pressure tank. i,m a hobby and i want to cast some pieces but dont have the pressure tank, and what kind of resin recommend for a hi ressistant platic gears. thanks
Degassing is done in a vacuum tank, casting is done in a pressure tank after degassing the resin. Watch my most recent video for resin recommendations.
I have never seen epoxy poures where you dont have to do back to check for bubbles or anything! Just pouring inside a closed container and not knowing if its ok until its cured gaved me anxiety 🤣 you're amazing!
I can’t believe that flange held the weight of that big block of rubber in the middle and didnt allow it to sag and make the floor of the cast box thinner…but it seems you pulled it off. I would have over-thunk it and tried to reinforce that part of the mold. I really appreciate the self locking parting line I just learned from you, thank you. That concept is something I have done by accident before, but now I will use it strategically. I already swore off the acorn nuts years ago in favor of a sculpted trench around the whole part which prevents resin from leaking out of a poorly clamped mold…
Anyhow great video, thanks!!!
is this the best video I have seen about this process, thanks sir
Well, you made that look easy. Its shows what, planning and time spent making custom mold boxes etc pays off in the end product. You sounded like you had time constraints and yet the order was filled. Well done, Eric.
"you made that look easy"
I was thinking the same thing. I've made silicone molds myself. My molds never turned out nearly as well as Eric's molds.
Thanks for another great video Eric Strebel!
I wish you were my teacher at school with your way of teaching I would of achieved a lot more
Great tips, and I like the calm informative nature of you narration without a lot of unneeded jibber jabber!
Trying to do that, thanks
I used some PVA glue to make a seal on my mould yesterday and I was wondering if it was a good idea or not. Glad to hear your approval on that method. Your videos are always insightful.
Love this! I never was able to see the details of this before
The cardboard locking mechanism is brilliant. I do not want to buy myself a laser cutter, but I do have a CNC mill. Maybe I make myself a few standard sizes of this cardboard thing, but mill it from PE. I do not think the PE will damage the silicone. Having the alignment as well as the two half locking on the very edge of the mold saves a lot of silicone
Very impressive, Nice work! first time I have seen this locking mold concept, pretty interesting for sure!
Thank you so much! Such a clear and expert instructional video. You have saved me many hours of trial and error.
Excellent video Eric, I like how you show and explain the technical aspects in this video.
Eric you are the man I’ve never seen a copy get done like that. Where are you poured in the center of the mold that’s actually really cool.
Thanks for this video. I made a mold box using this method and it turned out great! no more leaking resin!
Great video, just what I was looking for. Thank you
Awesome work. Thanks for sharing
I realy enjoy this new format. Very clear, and hopefully you reduced a bit of time in the production/editing
Your videos have been amazing since day 1 (for me 3000 subs.)
Thanks
Thankyou for your longtime support, I really appreciate your feedback and dedication to the chanel and content
FELICITACIONES, entender las esencias de las cosas hace al gran resultado de tus trabajos, brillante un gran profesional. me gusta mucho aprender de usted.
Great video. The pours look spot on. Great work. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I have never made a mold or casted anything before in my life, but your videos make it seem very approachable. I designed and 3d printed a part that's roughly the size you have there. Instead of being an open box like that, it's a solid one (like a cube). The part needs to be lightweight but still very durable (it will be used for ice fishing). I could email you a pic of the part. Would love your input or advice on what mold material and casting material to get for this part, before wasting a ton of money on the wrong stuff. Thanks again! Awesome videos!
Came for the title and video, stayed for the Swiss Flag on your hat… i dont regret both… greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭 (Zofingen)
Hopp Schwitz 🇨🇭
Danke glichfalls 🤣
Thank you for sharing your expertise! Your system is absolutely brilliant!
This was great, super clear and simply explaned!
Your clearly a Master Mold Maker...👍👍
Another great video, thanks for taking the time Eric! I will be using this process to make custom drone avionics enclosures using a 3D printed master
Good luck, tag me on social media, I'd love to see the parts
Thanks for the demo, I'm doing some wierd moulding, im trying dried oil syrup in salt! hahaha
hi Eric, can you make a video explaining kinds of resins and its purposes, many thanks
Eric Thank you for sharing this process.
Quality !!! Nicely done Eric, superb work as always.
Thank you thank you. Now I know what I need to do.
Excellent video as always.
How do you prevent the resin from flowing back into the pouring hole and leaving a thickening behind? The law of communicating vessels seems to apply here. I don't see any trace of the pouring hole, so how do you do that? Nice job, btw.
Very interesting! Thanks for a great explanatory video
You're most welcome
@@EricStrebel I will check your other videos! Then I' have some questions etc. for you! :) It's a bit late here now.
Thanks for the detailed design!
Great video. Thank you for all your hard work
This is bloody stuff you made man excellent.
08:00 Just a humble newbie comment, you could hang a piece of box in such a way that you could spend less silicone for the inner (second) part of the model.
09:45 A slightly tilted funnel could be usefull.
Interesting process but the problem I have with the idea is when people take commercial items and do recasts and then sell them. Conceptually it is the same as making copies of copyrighted material and selling them for profit. A big* problem in the garage or small batch area of scale or figure modeling
*well maybe not big but it is big to the kit producers
And it is nice that you supply links to product suppliers
Beautiful !!! Thank you!!
All that work, materials and time for just 10 pieces off :-O
#brilliant
Yup
i love the self locking meganism could the be used also wen you make a mould for a plastic model car body because as in your piece you can clue it to bottom and it is seald from sillicon pooring in into the insude of the mould how too solve this problem with a body model car that is not the same hight ?
It could you be used for any kind of mold
Many thanks from Universiti Sains Malaysia
Amazing craftsmanship, learned a lot from this, thanks man.
When you mix why don't you use a paddle on a small drill, works for me 100 per cent. Good vlog. 👍🇫🇷
Tks for Share Eric !
Thank you for the video. The way you did the vents and sprue gave me the exact style I need to do on my first polyurethane pour. And the way you interlocked the half's is another great idea I will incorporate into future molds for my part. It will be a on going part that I came up with. This gives me confidence of success. Do I need a reservoir of material pressure potting? Thanks again.
I use the strings as the reservoir
@@EricStrebel Thank you for the reply Eric. I appreciate it. :)
What if you don't have a laser cutter? I like your silicone box. Is there another way to wrap the lid for a smaller box?
If you don't have a laser cutter then you can 3D print a splitter board or do it by hand
More of these please
You are doing a great jobs 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Great job am impressed 👍
Awesome tutorial. Thank you 🙏
that's great!👏, thank you for sharing with us.
Your welcome
Bob Ross of silicone casting
Loved this video! This is exactly I was looking for. Thanks !!
Love the video, very helpful! How do you not end up with a funnel full of cured resin stuck to the part?
You do, you have to break it or twist it off.
great job! I have done similar jobs but when cast thin walls , not have enough resistant using polyurethane and fillers like talc, did you used milled glass??
Really helpful stuff, nice vid. I don't get how the sprue was in the floor yet the resin filled the walls?
This is an astonishing video. Thanks.
How much different is your polymer pour from that of polymer used for a rifle.
I was interested in making some of my own rifle parts, and was curious how to make my own molds lead me to your video.
This video made it seem fairly easy to set up at home, however I was wondering the structure rigidity difference between an at home pour vs factory. Mind you, I am aware of it depends on the maker , but in your case. How close do you think you could replicate the quality of strong polymer parts.
Excellent my friend!!
Make a hailong battery case. Which is use for E bick.
❤good job!
Great video again!
Do you have a process for color matching, or do you just go by your personal sense of the color? If you have a process, that would be a great subject for a video!
Good point, color matching is super hard
You're awesome man!
This is perfect. I'd like to resin cast some molded electronic shell parts so that I can have a semi-transparent casing on my phone. I love the guts, but black is so boring!
Why did you skip the internal thread for the screw? Did you tap it afterwards?
I let the client deal with it, they can drill it to whatever they want.
I'm a Vietnam Combat Marine and I purchased 4 EGA to mount on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. They are all rigid and I need to make a mold of them that I can put against the side of the truck to cast them with the proper curves to paste to the truck. I plan to paint the truck a gloss black including the EGA. I would welcome any suggestions you might have to help me. Thanks.
bel lavoro. complimenti
the table were you left for curing silicon was level right
Yes
Would this method work the same for makimg boxes that have a lid like a rugged box case to hold cameras and electronics
Obviously 2 moulds one for the box base and one for the lid
Yes ,of course
@@EricStrebel Great. thanks for your fast response
You are a boss! I'd love to get your help on casting a small part. Mould orientation, where to place vents and sprues etc. Do you have a patreon for this sort of thing?
Hello, This is awesome. Lemme ask a question, What is a good resin I could use for producing commercial wireless charging cases? Thanks.
Check with support at Rampf and BJB Enterprise
How do you make the vent tubes, you say urethane resin in straws, and it looks like you cast the pour hole inside the funnel? What resin do you use for this, and do they need to be coated with release before pouring the top half of the mold?
Thanks, great video!
Yes, our urethane resin into staws, cut and sharpen in pencil sharpener. Any resin can be used.no mold release if you use a plastic straw.
Brilliant mate..
Exelent video... great technique... thanks for sharing your knowledge
One Question... Can you make GEARS for an E-Bike Transmission with the RESIN material you used??? Does it stand wear and some heat???
You just need to choose the correct resin with the properties that you want
awesome video as usual Eric, can you give me a ball park on what you charge to copy a hanger is what they call it for my sony mdrxb950bt aheadset. Its the part that holds the headset or the earphones. These are the weakest part of these headsets and and they are not available anymore as a replacement parts. I was going to have them 3d printed but I don't know what is more cost effective , cast them or print them. I saw how you make your parts with resins and they look nice. please reach out to me , thank you
3d printing is gonna be way more cost effective
@@EricStrebel ok 3d print it is, can i send you a pair of good ones L and R and can you replicate them in black and how will i pay you? and if all is good where can i send them? thank you sir
How do you prevent silicone in central part of top mold from bowing down and causing wall of the product to be thinner in that area?
Great video! Thanks!
Question: could you use a dummy block in the second pouring to save some silicone? For example placing a hanging wood block in the middle of the original plastic part and then pour the silicone. This would create a big recess on the silicone but would save a lot of silicone, which is expensive.
Then, when pouring the resin you could still place the wood block to make it stiffer and remove it after curing to ease the demolding.
You could but I don't think it's worth it
@@EricStrebel looking at smooth on prices for their silicones, maybe a $40 or $50 savings would be expected. Also for even larger pieces could be nice to save some bucks.
Best to cut up old molds and recycle them, it's just a huge pain in the ass I find to do that
I have a synthetic rifle stock, the kind that has webbing in the fore end instead of solid plastic. I'd like to fill those voids to stiffen my stock. Any suggestions on a simple plastic mix that is stiff, but will also stick well?
Thanks
Great video. I want to make like 100 small parts bins for screws and stuff. What resin would you recommend? The problem is it probably won’t be more then 1/32inch thick. Maybe 4x3x3 inch. Thanks.
Yes a quality 65 or seventy shore D duromerer resin, try @bjbeneteprises
Would a pressure pot do the same thing with the bubbles in the silicone?
Yes it would, so not something you want in your silicone
Hi, I'm looking for a grey liquid dye for using with my resin, any suggestion on a brand I could use?
Very nice. 👍
Very informative, but how did the silicone not tear off in the threaded holes? Thanks:)
Cover looks great! Did you support the mold the length of the cover? Silicone looks like it could sag along the length.
Do you not have problems with shrinkage or deformation due to the elasticity of the silicone mold, causing tolerance issues?
Hi Eric,
I'd like to understand what happens with perpendicular holes that are ininside the box in each corner, that seem to be for screws or similar. How do you reproduce them on the copy?
They are drilled after the part is removed from the mold.
@@EricStrebel Great to know! Tks!
Hi Sir, how long to take out the product from the mold after you pour the resin?
Depends on the resin you use, each one is different
Thank you Sir!
Hello, is there way to make something like this but final product thiccker than original? I have Master in sheet metal and its to thin for plastic. Thank you
Make a thicker master. Wax is old school, or make CAD and a master 3d print
@@EricStrebel Thank very much.
Ofcourse i forgot to say that your videos about molds are best on UA-cam. No like realy. They are.
Anyway, my Master is piece of art from sheet metal, so i cannot remake it thiccker. But only one face of Master is important. I was hoping if there is some kind of spray that swell up in uniform layer. But if wax is best way, I´ll manage :)
thank you again.
Sheet wax, comes in many thicknesses
Great tutorial. Learned alot. But, could you ballpark the price for that medium sized container?
I'm trying to wrap my head around the economics of purchasing 10 vs. going through the molding process.
Depends on complexity and what you expect the end results to be and what it's intended use will be.
Is it possible to get small details this way?
Great video. Thank you. What was the resin you used for the actual part as I'm looking to make a multi-compartment tool box.
I would recommend a resin from bjb enterprises they will have what you need for your application
Hi ! is it true for poliurethane pieces, that once you use some PU from its bottle, if you dont put Argon gas inside the bottle for replacin Oxigen, then the PU will be ruined becosause Oxigen make PU to be foamy? I saw it on another professional youtube channel.. Thanks
Argon is an inert gas that you can put in your open bottles to help them last longer.
Thanks Eric! I mean, how long does a bottle size like we see in your videos without Argon? Or in what period of time you can use it without problems? Thanks again!
It will depend on the resin. Mileage will vary, you want to try to use your resin within 6 months
Thank You for Sharing.
With such a large and precisely rectangular product, were you worried at all about the silicone mold deforming a bit without the box sides to support it and keep things square? The end product looks great, but have you run into that problem before?
Nope, it's a cover that houses somethings, not that important for this part
can we make plastic parts out of these silicone molds? like ABS?
You make parts that simulate ABS with polyurethane resin
Hi Eric, with the large volume in the second pore, would it be possible to block that out to save on silicone?
The silicone you use can't be found in the UK -- is there something by Smooth-on that's an equivalent that you know of?
Thanks!
Great, thanks Eric :')
hi, why is important to dgas in the pressure tank. i,m a hobby and i want to cast some pieces but dont have the pressure tank, and what kind of resin recommend for a hi ressistant platic gears. thanks
Degassing is done in a vacuum tank, casting is done in a pressure tank after degassing the resin. Watch my most recent video for resin recommendations.