Resin Copies, Mold and Cast medium size parts
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2021
- How to copy a medium size object. Create a self locking two part silicone mold, then cast a resin copy into the silicone mold to make a duplicate part of the original.
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I have never seen epoxy poures where you dont have to do back to check for bubbles or anything! Just pouring inside a closed container and not knowing if its ok until its cured gaved me anxiety 🤣 you're amazing!
Eric you are the man I’ve never seen a copy get done like that. Where are you poured in the center of the mold that’s actually really cool.
This is perfect. I'd like to resin cast some molded electronic shell parts so that I can have a semi-transparent casing on my phone. I love the guts, but black is so boring!
Quality !!! Nicely done Eric, superb work as always.
Eric Thank you for sharing this process.
This was great, super clear and simply explaned!
Thank you for sharing your expertise! Your system is absolutely brilliant!
Amazing craftsmanship, learned a lot from this, thanks man.
Love this! I never was able to see the details of this before
Excellent video Eric, I like how you show and explain the technical aspects in this video.
Awesome tutorial. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the detailed design!
Great video. Thank you for all your hard work
Your clearly a Master Mold Maker...👍👍
Loved this video! This is exactly I was looking for. Thanks !!
Very impressive, Nice work! first time I have seen this locking mold concept, pretty interesting for sure!
Great video. The pours look spot on. Great work. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Excellent video as always.
This is bloody stuff you made man excellent.
Thanks for this video. I made a mold box using this method and it turned out great! no more leaking resin!
Beautiful !!! Thank you!!
Tks for Share Eric !
I used some PVA glue to make a seal on my mould yesterday and I was wondering if it was a good idea or not. Glad to hear your approval on that method. Your videos are always insightful.
Thank you so much! Such a clear and expert instructional video. You have saved me many hours of trial and error.
Great job am impressed 👍
bel lavoro. complimenti
very nice
Thanks
Great video again!
Another great video, thanks for taking the time Eric! I will be using this process to make custom drone avionics enclosures using a 3D printed master
Good luck, tag me on social media, I'd love to see the parts
Great tips, and I like the calm informative nature of you narration without a lot of unneeded jibber jabber!
Trying to do that, thanks
Excellent my friend!!
Thank you thank you. Now I know what I need to do.
More of these please
great video thx again
You're awesome man!
Brilliant mate..
Thank You for Sharing.
You are doing a great jobs 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Well, you made that look easy. Its shows what, planning and time spent making custom mold boxes etc pays off in the end product. You sounded like you had time constraints and yet the order was filled. Well done, Eric.
"you made that look easy"
I was thinking the same thing. I've made silicone molds myself. My molds never turned out nearly as well as Eric's molds.
Thanks for another great video Eric Strebel!
❤good job!
that's great!👏, thank you for sharing with us.
Your welcome
Very interesting! Thanks for a great explanatory video
You're most welcome
@@EricStrebel I will check your other videos! Then I' have some questions etc. for you! :) It's a bit late here now.
Great vodeo
Came for the title and video, stayed for the Swiss Flag on your hat… i dont regret both… greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭 (Zofingen)
Hopp Schwitz 🇨🇭
Danke glichfalls 🤣
Very nice. 👍
Thanks for the demo, I'm doing some wierd moulding, im trying dried oil syrup in salt! hahaha
I realy enjoy this new format. Very clear, and hopefully you reduced a bit of time in the production/editing
Your videos have been amazing since day 1 (for me 3000 subs.)
Thanks
Thankyou for your longtime support, I really appreciate your feedback and dedication to the chanel and content
Rock on brother
Bob Ross of silicone casting
Great!
Great, thanks Eric :')
Hi Eric, with the large volume in the second pore, would it be possible to block that out to save on silicone?
The silicone you use can't be found in the UK -- is there something by Smooth-on that's an equivalent that you know of?
Thanks!
Cool
WOW!
All that work, materials and time for just 10 pieces off :-O
#brilliant
Yup
Nice 👍
the MAN!
How do you prevent the resin from flowing back into the pouring hole and leaving a thickening behind? The law of communicating vessels seems to apply here. I don't see any trace of the pouring hole, so how do you do that? Nice job, btw.
Awesome video! I'm sure you've been asked this before. Any idea if lighter fluid will work as a substitute for naptha?
Really helpful stuff, nice vid. I don't get how the sprue was in the floor yet the resin filled the walls?
How do you prevent silicone in central part of top mold from bowing down and causing wall of the product to be thinner in that area?
I have a synthetic rifle stock, the kind that has webbing in the fore end instead of solid plastic. I'd like to fill those voids to stiffen my stock. Any suggestions on a simple plastic mix that is stiff, but will also stick well?
Interesting process but the problem I have with the idea is when people take commercial items and do recasts and then sell them. Conceptually it is the same as making copies of copyrighted material and selling them for profit. A big* problem in the garage or small batch area of scale or figure modeling
*well maybe not big but it is big to the kit producers
And it is nice that you supply links to product suppliers
Do you not have problems with shrinkage or deformation due to the elasticity of the silicone mold, causing tolerance issues?
Cover looks great! Did you support the mold the length of the cover? Silicone looks like it could sag along the length.
What if you don't have a laser cutter? I like your silicone box. Is there another way to wrap the lid for a smaller box?
If you don't have a laser cutter then you can 3D print a splitter board or do it by hand
Very informative, but how did the silicone not tear off in the threaded holes? Thanks:)
Thank you for your reply, I have a 3D printer.
Hi, I'm looking for a grey liquid dye for using with my resin, any suggestion on a brand I could use?
I'm a Vietnam Combat Marine and I purchased 4 EGA to mount on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. They are all rigid and I need to make a mold of them that I can put against the side of the truck to cast them with the proper curves to paste to the truck. I plan to paint the truck a gloss black including the EGA. I would welcome any suggestions you might have to help me. Thanks.
Love the video, very helpful! How do you not end up with a funnel full of cured resin stuck to the part?
You do, you have to break it or twist it off.
i love the self locking meganism could the be used also wen you make a mould for a plastic model car body because as in your piece you can clue it to bottom and it is seald from sillicon pooring in into the insude of the mould how too solve this problem with a body model car that is not the same hight ?
It could you be used for any kind of mold
When you mix why don't you use a paddle on a small drill, works for me 100 per cent. Good vlog. 👍🇫🇷
Eric, when you color match, do you need to cast the entire finished part or can you do small batch tests in something like an ice cube tray?
Testing in small batches is a pretty good idea, ice cube tray would probably work well, or just small mixing cup
Exelent video... great technique... thanks for sharing your knowledge
One Question... Can you make GEARS for an E-Bike Transmission with the RESIN material you used??? Does it stand wear and some heat???
You just need to choose the correct resin with the properties that you want
You are a boss! I'd love to get your help on casting a small part. Mould orientation, where to place vents and sprues etc. Do you have a patreon for this sort of thing?
This video revolutionized the way I think about making resin molds! About the way you used packing tape to cover the holes, is there any worry that the mold may become damaged when removing the part(s) and ripping the positive mold side? Also, how long do you figure the mold will last considering the size and shape? Thanks!
Ripping the molds is always a possibility just have to be careful. You should get 20 parts out of a mold more if you're gentle
This is an astonishing video. Thanks.
How much different is your polymer pour from that of polymer used for a rifle.
I was interested in making some of my own rifle parts, and was curious how to make my own molds lead me to your video.
This video made it seem fairly easy to set up at home, however I was wondering the structure rigidity difference between an at home pour vs factory. Mind you, I am aware of it depends on the maker , but in your case. How close do you think you could replicate the quality of strong polymer parts.
Why did you skip the internal thread for the screw? Did you tap it afterwards?
I let the client deal with it, they can drill it to whatever they want.
How do you make the vent tubes, you say urethane resin in straws, and it looks like you cast the pour hole inside the funnel? What resin do you use for this, and do they need to be coated with release before pouring the top half of the mold?
Thanks, great video!
Yes, our urethane resin into staws, cut and sharpen in pencil sharpener. Any resin can be used.no mold release if you use a plastic straw.
Make a hailong battery case. Which is use for E bick.
That all u got!
That's all
Great video! Thanks!
Question: could you use a dummy block in the second pouring to save some silicone? For example placing a hanging wood block in the middle of the original plastic part and then pour the silicone. This would create a big recess on the silicone but would save a lot of silicone, which is expensive.
Then, when pouring the resin you could still place the wood block to make it stiffer and remove it after curing to ease the demolding.
You could but I don't think it's worth it
@@EricStrebel looking at smooth on prices for their silicones, maybe a $40 or $50 savings would be expected. Also for even larger pieces could be nice to save some bucks.
Best to cut up old molds and recycle them, it's just a huge pain in the ass I find to do that
With such a large and precisely rectangular product, were you worried at all about the silicone mold deforming a bit without the box sides to support it and keep things square? The end product looks great, but have you run into that problem before?
Nope, it's a cover that houses somethings, not that important for this part
Great video, Eric! Your tutorials are exceptional in that they are methodical and can basically serve as scholarly courses. I really admire your work! I was meaning to ask you for the advise for quite some time now. Namely, I am working on a toy prototype, and I am in the phase when I cast various parts of it using Smooth-on's Smooth Cast 310. I have a bit of a trouble producing the right colour of the part by using So-strong pigments. Namely, how does one measure the right amount of the pigment that goes into resin in order to achieve repeatable results (i.e. to ensure each copy of the part in the series is the same colour)? I find it quite hard to estimate the right amount of pigment since it is so strong on one hand, and the resin tends to turn lighter when it cures so the colour attained when the resin is in a liquid state is not the same when the resin cures. How does one overcome this difficulty? Thank you for your consideration.
Good question, put them in a dropper bottle so you can measure the drops of color 😊
@@EricStrebel Thank you, sir! Sounds logical :)
Hi Eric, thanks for the video. I have a quick question, i got some polyurethane resin that i want to use, but the curing time is about 3min and i dont think it will give enough time to degas it. Is there a product that can extend the curing time?.
Nope, not that I know of. Get a resin that has a longer working time.
Great video. Thank you. What was the resin you used for the actual part as I'm looking to make a multi-compartment tool box.
I would recommend a resin from bjb enterprises they will have what you need for your application
Which type of resin is use here?
hi, why is important to dgas in the pressure tank. i,m a hobby and i want to cast some pieces but dont have the pressure tank, and what kind of resin recommend for a hi ressistant platic gears. thanks
Degassing is done in a vacuum tank, casting is done in a pressure tank after degassing the resin. Watch my most recent video for resin recommendations.
Great video. I want to make like 100 small parts bins for screws and stuff. What resin would you recommend? The problem is it probably won’t be more then 1/32inch thick. Maybe 4x3x3 inch. Thanks.
Yes a quality 65 or seventy shore D duromerer resin, try @bjbeneteprises
Do you have a process for color matching, or do you just go by your personal sense of the color? If you have a process, that would be a great subject for a video!
Good point, color matching is super hard
08:00 Just a humble newbie comment, you could hang a piece of box in such a way that you could spend less silicone for the inner (second) part of the model.
09:45 A slightly tilted funnel could be usefull.
the table were you left for curing silicon was level right
Yes
Wich resin are u using?
Would this method work the same for makimg boxes that have a lid like a rugged box case to hold cameras and electronics
Obviously 2 moulds one for the box base and one for the lid
Yes ,of course
@@EricStrebel Great. thanks for your fast response
Would a pressure pot do the same thing with the bubbles in the silicone?
Yes it would, so not something you want in your silicone
Hi Eric,
I'd like to understand what happens with perpendicular holes that are ininside the box in each corner, that seem to be for screws or similar. How do you reproduce them on the copy?
They are drilled after the part is removed from the mold.
@@EricStrebel Great to know! Tks!
Hello, This is awesome. Lemme ask a question, What is a good resin I could use for producing commercial wireless charging cases? Thanks.
Check with support at Rampf and BJB Enterprise
Wow. That seemed to work so well. What resin are you using for the final piece… pu?
Usually a resin from rampf 3070