Thank you for explaining how this charcoal fuel filter canister works. I saw mine hanging down and took it in for repair. Guy asked if I ran over something. Funny because I had just traveled over those raggedy New York highways... He also said it was hanging on by a zip tie, with. Hadn't noticed any fuel odor, so don't think it was cracked. The bracket holding it up was "cracked".
Thank you. Yes definitely that’s what’s going on. I over filled my tank trying to get as much gas in there as I could and ever since then my truck hesitates to take of. I am hoping to be able to fix this my self.
Excellent presentation Sir! It's ok to check solenoid 1st!. Slide underneath SAFELY with buddy aid, then visually check condition of canister housing, connections, tightness of all hoses ...ty
Thanks bud appreciate it I've narrowed down my assumption to the gas pump constantly shutting off when pumping to the charcoal cannister and the cannister purge valve
had the problem you described about the gas pump clicking off when trying to fuel my car, 1st changed the purge solenoid at the motor, didn't help, then i replaced my charcoal canister and voila, problem solved
Thank you so much for explaining how this really simple system works. Causes so many problems and unfortunately, a lot of people get taken to the cleaners when they go to an auto mechanic. I like to do my own work and feel satisfied when I figure it out I hope I figure this out. Lol.
Thank you sir, I had several issues, one was the fuel pump (I ran it bone dry one day when I was doing work, didn't notice the low fuel light) then like you said, the pump handle kept tripping off) After filling the tank up, it wouldn't start. I'll be pulling the evap canister today!
Your channel should have 2 million subscribers, by the way Sir if at all possible may I request a topic regarding pre ignition or pre detonation that causes that light pinging sound during acceleration and how to fix it? Thanks Sir
Thanks for the video. I have been trying to tell people what there problem might be. But no one wants to listen. After I show them this video maybe they might listen to. Oh yeah most or should I say all of them what I think there car problems are I tell them what I think and they always seem to reply that I don't know what I am talking about. So why ask for my opinion in the first place? Oh yeah 👍 great advice.
I noticed my 2002 toyota 4runner wouldn't fill up at the pump without me holding the trigger down to fill...thanks for this video. I'm gonna check out my charcoal filter asap.
@@day1fishing603 well I have the same issue but I changed the gas cap two years ago and its oem. I called the dealership but they said I should have them inspect it because it can be the filler neck
I had the same problem on a 2006 Ford. It was the fuel tank purge valve. It was stuck closed. When the engine was turned off the valve was supposed to open so the fumes could travel to the charcoal canister and be stored so they could be burned off when the engine is started and running. When it was stuck closed the fumes created when filling the tank had nowhere to go. The gas pump would shut off. The only way to get gas into the tank was you had to hold the handle on the nozzle. Also when the tank reached full fuel would be forced up and out of the filler neck. I changed the valve sensor, and that cured the problem.
2005 toyota corolla Ce, no fault code,brand new 02 sensor upstream and downstream but the upstream is not ready or incomplete. No check engine light on.
great video ,, i have 08 mountaineer v8 ,, code P0135,P0141,P0155,P0161 and P0443 came up all at once , i noticed that when putting fuel in the car and the car in ON then it shut off while fueling ,,, can this be a canister problem ? ..
All good, except: "In California, 2000 and newer model year vehicles will need all emission monitors in READY or COMPLETE status with the exception of the EVAP monitor. An incomplete evaporative monitor will not cause a smog check failure. The Bureau of Automotive Repairs has reduced the number of allowable incomplete OBD II readiness monitors for both the new BAR-OIS smog inspection system and the BAR-97 smog inspections systems, however the EVAP monitor is the one monitor that is still allowed to remain Not Ready and will not cause a smog test failure." However: In the real world, Smog Inspection businesses are highly monitored by the State, and if they don't "fail" a certain percentage of vehicles, the State will send in "test" vehicles to try and bust the Smog station for illegally passing vehicles that have "something" wrong, which could be as simple as a disconnected hose that would automatically "fail" a "visual" inspection as no repairs or modifications are allowed. Here's another "trick" to passing smog: When you go in, ask the Smog station to "check the readiness monitors to be sure the car is ready to be smogged." They will 100% check the monitors anyway, usually before they even do a visual they will hook up their scan tool and see if there are any codes or Check Engine Lights, an automatic fail. But, if you ask them to check for "readiness" first, then they cannot fail you if your car is not ready, because you asked them to check BEFORE they started any test procedures. If you don't ask, and they test to see the readiness monitors are not ready, then it's an automatic fail. Again, if they were to do this simple courtesy for every customer, then a large percentage of fails would not be sent away with an automatic fail. Then, the percentage of passes would be abnormally high, and that smog station would get flagged by California's Bureau of Automotive Repairs (BAR) and they'd start sending in test vehicles to bust the station. Often, the Smog station will tell people to 'drive 50 miles' or some such advice to 'clear' the monitors. However, there are many 'drive cycle procedures' that one might follow that could clear and ready the system in under ten or twenty miles. I have gone to smog's that the Evap was not clear, and have driven over 200 miles and it still doesn't clear, despite doing very rigid adherence to a drive-cycle procedure. The Evap can literally go 500 miles and still not clear. Some unethical stations will tell you that the car 'failed' if the Evap is not ready. But, it doesn't have to be for certain years and types of cars. BTW: I've used Catyclean with some success, including helping my MPG increase as well as helping pass smog. Having sold about 100 used cars in the last five years, I"ve had plenty of smogs. Usually, you want to go in when the car is nice and hot, having driven about 20 miles or so before the smog, and tuned up the car and be sure you hook up everything as it should be. For example, leaving a vacuum hose off the airbox will be an automatic visual fail. For all that smog tech knows, you are from the BAR and trying to bust them for simply helping out someone by saying, "Hey, looks like you left your vacuum hose off." When I was a kid, back in the 1970's, it was common to see cars going down the road leaving so much smog that you could not see across the street after they drove by. So, it is an important thing to help with the air quality. But, three are definitely some smog places that lie to people and say that the car is not ready when all it is is the Evap, and they tell the person to go out and drive, which is not at all guaranteed to clear an evap. I've personally put over 1,000 miles on a car and the Evap doesn't clear.
I just recently purchased a brand new 2023 Rav4 and OVERFILLED my gas tank twice out of ignorance obviously. That's how recent I've purchased the vehicle. I'm nuts with this thing and with doing things RIGHT. Do you think ANY damage could have been done to the system with just TWO times?
How about no CEL, no DTCs, no driving symptoms, but have a yellow light on the code reader and a flashing EVA that won’t reset. I’ve inspected the canister and all of the hose connections for leaks and removed and cleaned the foam filter inside the canister.
I’ve had this code for a while come and go on my 06 Jeep WK since I bought it maybe 3 years ago. I’ve spent $5k in repairs and/or parts I’ve replaced the gas cap multiple times. I also need to replace my thermostat, it’s not reaching operating temperature , on the cold side. Let’s just say if you prolong an Evap code and/or another engine related problem..you’ll encounter numerous problems. Of course gas smells, but things such as weird noises and heavy rough idle and recently stalling… I’m going to get my Evap system checked soon, I believe it may be something associated with the canister, as I’ve replaced the purge valve over a year ago
It does not have to be the canister it's self that cause gas to smell I just had this problem and it was my vent solenoid that's located on the canister .
I know that my Evap canister is not functioning, but I am noticing white smoke also when the car is ON and not moving. Is this related to the evap system issues? Also, please advise me where can I find a brand NEW replacement of my canister for infinity q50.
I have a Toyota with a p0446, is that the purge valve by the charcoal canister? Sometimes when I start the car there is a gas smell but then it goes away.
My s550 mustang 3.7 canister is likely bad due to age of 8 years old. And I been getting rich conditions and some lean conditions and the car would shake after getting gas as well.
I have all those symptoms on my 2007 Honda pilot EXL but I’m also getting a check fuel cap but I already replaced it can the charcoal canister be the problem for that too
Every now and then after I’ve been driving and shut the car off and restart it, I get a gurgling pulsating sound coming from the passenger side, and if I pop the hood and squeeze the line going from the purge solenoid to the intake, the gurgling stops until I unpinch it, no codes no CEL, I do have crappy gas mileage and smell super rich gas fumes, starts fine runs fine, it just started doing this
I have some other symptoms. My gas gauge is stuck at 3/4 (it goes to zero when I turn off the car). I have bad smell of gas inside. It's worse when the car is off. What could it be, is it sending unit or EVAP system, or both? My fuel pump or fuel regulator are not cracked at top.
This is great. I have the P0455 issue on my 2007 Tahoe. Will replace it soon. Would this also cause my acceleration to have a problem? When it's warm outside, the truck seems to bog down and refuse to accelerate. I'll have it floored and there'll be little to no acceleration. It doesn't feel like it's flooded, just won't accelerate. If I back off the throttle a little and accelerate slowly it will then accelerate "ok". Not a major issue, but concerning when trying to accelerate at a stop light or trying to merge onto a highway. Fortunately it's not the transmission - it's not revving high, it's just not acceleration. (EDIT) Forgot to mention it seems to stick at about 1500 RPM when it's doing this.
@@krasmurdok it might also be your throttle position sensor or the (accelerator) pedal position sensor...and I'd lean toward the pedal position sensor. Pretty easy fix. What's happening in my case (I just learned) is mine is going into "limp mode" and limiting my throttle revs (I'm maxed at 1500 rpm) and keeping me at 2nd or 3rd gear. Should take about 20 minutes max to replace it. I just ordered the part.
I have every signal of a bad vapor canister like the gas pump stopping unless I pull the nozzle all the way out to the tip of the fuel tube and pump slow, Car reeks of super rich gas fumes for a good two minutes after you start the car inside and out, bad gas mileage, engine twitches But doesn’t affect the RPMs, And also, after I finally do fill up the tank after several tries, I get a chugging sound coming through the passenger side dash, and if I squeeze the vacuum line between the purge solenoid and the intake it stops, take a little while to settle down when I come to a stoplight, but I have zero codes and no CEL
@@majicdude88 I can also hear when I’m getting low on gas. My fuel pump starts grumbling louder. It never used to do that before only in the last month or two.
@@majicdude88 also I don’t know if it means anything but every time I turn my key on my pump primes, even if I shut the key off and turn it back on it primes again and if I turn the key off right away and turn it back on right away the pump primes again and so on like somethings not holding pressure, car starts and runs fine
I watched video how to refurbish .so i sid it its easy just buy bag of activated charcoal cut end open clean foam filters .replace clean xharcoal glue end bavk together .works great.
If you want to smoke test your EVAP lines, do you do it from the service port? And do you have to pull any other hose off for venting so the smoke can get down the line?
Question for you. I only get the check engine light when I park on the fourth floor of were I work. P0442. I have changed the purge valve and the vent valve too. If I drive on level road it never comes on. Only comes on when it’s parked on elevated fourth floor. You have anything for me. Haha
Hi i have a hyundai accent 2007 and im having problems starting the car after i put gasolina, i put new the gas cap, vapor canister purge valve, which is next to the throttle, the other valve that is on the valve cover and also the oone located next to the canister and still having problems, let me know what can it be, it's driving me crazy. Thanks and great video
Hello. I have a 06 ram 1500 and recently i can smell raw gas near the drivers side rear wheel well after i drive it home and park it. I looked under it and there were no leaks that i could see. I tried to look on top of the gas tank as best i could. I didnt see any obvious leaks but really could not see well. I looked at the evap csnister ans hoses. All looked ok and i didnt detect any gas odor around the canister. I could see the fuel pump on top of the tank and therd was another device up there but i dont know what it is. No check engine light. Any ideas.
You do not start with the charcoal filter . There is an evap solenoid by the tank and another vapor sensor by the engine .on chevys. Changing the charcoal tank would be last on the list of things to.check lol but 1 of the steps none the less . P o449 code does not just mean charcoal cannister
I’m replacing mine because of the small and large leak detected ..question should I reset code or just let the computer reset itself after I replace it 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7
Hello, I’ve taken my 02 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L truck to different auto parts stores to check why my engine light keeps going on and off. They all gave me a P0443 code. They say it’s the canister purge valve. I have replaced it 3 times with new ones but, the engine light still goes on and off. What else do you recommend me to do? 🤔
@@Top5AutoRepairs Thanks. I've been trying to locate the problem in my blazer. When I fuel up the check engine light will turn off for a while but will come back on.
Hello, i have a little bit of fuel smell when i start-up the car, now when i put my car to obd diagnostic and i go under "charcoal valve" the valve opens and closes every second, should valve work like that or not?
I have a 2012 Honda Civic LX and I'm getting a p420 code and an EVAP code. I'd like to buy just a cheap cat to get me by because I plan on buying a new car after 2 years. Do you think if I buy an aftermarket cheap eBay cat it'll pass emissions as long as I fix the EVAP code as well
Filled up my 2011 Kluger /Highlander today and that happened to me, the fuel nozzle kept clicking off every 2 seconds, what do you recommend i do?, if left will it get to the stage were i won't be able to put fuel in it at all?
Hi very informative video. I have a 2016 Corolla with strong fuel smell coming from AC vents first 1-2 min after being started in morning, then clear normal air and no engine codes. Any idea of what could be my issue?
Good info, I have a 06 titan with check engine on? I changed code sensor p0057 and I changed purge valve p0047 that code never came back. But 02 sensor one did ? Wierd because shop fixed that 02 sensor what can be the cause should I take truck back to them ??
I have a 98 pathfinder and my car is experiencing some symptoms where I’ll step on the gas and it’ll shift into 1st and 2nd but it hit the rev limiter shifting into 3rd. I’ve replaced the evap solenoid due to one of the hoses having carbon deposit built it up in it. Should I then replace the vent solenoid after emptying out my charcoal canister?
Hello Auto repairs, i am using the same Lexus RX300, 1999 model engine 1MZFE. the accident was made by swap/connecting the Vacuum Surge Tank pipe to the water outlet there just below it. The system was filled with water until the water comes out at The Charcoal Canister through the Air Drain Horse. We have tried to remove the water by sucking and blowing through the pipes and even put the new service kit since we found some plugs socked in water. but still the car wont start but cranks. what advice can you give sir
It seems like water made its way into the combustion chamber. Remove all spark plugs, remove water from the combustion chamber and next conduct a compression test. Hopefully the engine didn't hydrolock and caused mechanical damage.
Thank you for explaining how this charcoal fuel filter canister works. I saw mine hanging down and took it in for repair. Guy asked if I ran over something. Funny because I had just traveled over those raggedy New York highways... He also said it was hanging on by a zip tie, with. Hadn't noticed any fuel odor, so don't think it was cracked. The bracket holding it up was "cracked".
Wwwww2
Thank you. I have 2 of the symptoms full-time and one of them intermittently. And now I know why you've saved me a lot of aggravation
Thank you for taking the time to do all your videos. Two of them have helped me out. Didn’t have to spend big money at a machine shop.
Even me it helped abt the high pressure pump.
Thank you. Yes definitely that’s what’s going on. I over filled my tank trying to get as much gas in there as I could and ever since then my truck hesitates to take of. I am hoping to be able to fix this my self.
I believe that I did the same thing
Excellent presentation Sir! It's ok to check solenoid 1st!.
Slide underneath SAFELY with buddy aid, then visually check condition of canister housing, connections, tightness of all hoses ...ty
Thank you. You saved me money from taking it to the dealership to have it checked out 🙌
How did he help u ?
Thanks bud appreciate it I've narrowed down my assumption to the gas pump constantly shutting off when pumping to the charcoal cannister and the cannister purge valve
had the problem you described about the gas pump clicking off when trying to fuel my car, 1st changed the purge solenoid at the motor, didn't help, then i replaced my charcoal canister and voila, problem solved
Thank you so much for explaining how this really simple system works. Causes so many problems and unfortunately, a lot of people get taken to the cleaners when they go to an auto mechanic. I like to do my own work and feel satisfied when I figure it out I hope I figure this out. Lol.
Thank you sir, I had several issues, one was the fuel pump (I ran it bone dry one day when I was doing work, didn't notice the low fuel light) then like you said, the pump handle kept tripping off) After filling the tank up, it wouldn't start. I'll be pulling the evap canister today!
Yes I noticed more gas consumption and check engine comes on when the vehicle hesitated to start. Thanks for the advice.
That's awesome dude. Thanks for sharing so quickly and to the point. Mine looks like crap and the hoses are old so it might be time.
Your channel should have 2 million subscribers, by the way Sir if at all possible may I request a topic regarding pre ignition or pre detonation that causes that light pinging sound during acceleration and how to fix it? Thanks Sir
That's usually ignition timing.
THATS WHY THE GAS NOZZLE ALWAYS GOES OFF man that was irritating the HELL out of me lol. Great video man!
Thank you so much man I subscribed because you were the only person to point this out!!
Yes! I found this super informative and very well explained. You are great. Thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. I have been trying to tell people what there problem might be. But no one wants to listen. After I show them this video maybe they might listen to. Oh yeah most or should I say all of them what I think there car problems are I tell them what I think and they always seem to reply that I don't know what I am talking about. So why ask for my opinion in the first place? Oh yeah 👍 great advice.
Well worth viewing. Subscribed.
I noticed my 2002 toyota 4runner wouldn't fill up at the pump without me holding the trigger down to fill...thanks for this video. I'm gonna check out my charcoal filter asap.
Hi I have a question I have a 01 4runner the same issue when I fill gas it shuts off. Was it the canister?
@joel87555 I changed the gas cap, and it worked fine. But I'm waiting for the computer to reset and see if it fixed it. Lmk how yours goes..
@@day1fishing603 well I have the same issue but I changed the gas cap two years ago and its oem. I called the dealership but they said I should have them inspect it because it can be the filler neck
I had the same problem on a 2006 Ford. It was the fuel tank purge valve. It was stuck closed. When the engine was turned off the valve was supposed to open so the fumes could travel to the charcoal canister and be stored so they could be burned off when the engine is started and running. When it was stuck closed the fumes created when filling the tank had nowhere to go. The gas pump would shut off. The only way to get gas into the tank was you had to hold the handle on the nozzle. Also when the tank reached full fuel would be forced up and out of the filler neck. I changed the valve sensor, and that cured the problem.
Thanks, great detail. I bought a cheap smoke machine n saw a leak near the canister. I've been getting P 0172 too rich
What if I bypass the charcoal canister😮. I live in Florida where we don't have emmision testing nor do we need to deal with safety stickers 😅
😀
Thanks also there is foul smell coming out of the exhaust
Great video thanks
2005 toyota corolla Ce, no fault code,brand new 02 sensor upstream and downstream but the upstream is not ready or incomplete. No check engine light on.
thank you!! i have two symtomps .1 smell gas inside and out of my car 2. bad mpg
You solved that problems? How?
my 06 corolla has 6 fault codes,,,wont pass emmisions,,and i cant pump gas into it unless very slow,,,great video---
How should we go about replacing the hoses? What size hoses should we use? Where to buy?
Learning is always useful! Thanks
Very helpful and easy to understand. Thank you for making this video!
Your awesome bro.
Had a po448 and 447 on my 2006 Subaru sti. Big pita fiquring out the fix.
Thank you so much. You are awesome, very informative
Thank you that last one been happening to me for years I think I’ve figured it out
great video ,, i have 08 mountaineer v8 ,, code P0135,P0141,P0155,P0161 and P0443 came up all at once , i noticed that when putting fuel in the car and the car in ON then it shut off while fueling ,,, can this be a canister problem ? ..
All good, except: "In California, 2000 and newer model year vehicles will need all emission monitors in READY or COMPLETE status with the exception of the EVAP monitor. An incomplete evaporative monitor will not cause a smog check failure. The Bureau of Automotive Repairs has reduced the number of allowable incomplete OBD II readiness monitors for both the new BAR-OIS smog inspection system and the BAR-97 smog inspections systems, however the EVAP monitor is the one monitor that is still allowed to remain Not Ready and will not cause a smog test failure." However: In the real world, Smog Inspection businesses are highly monitored by the State, and if they don't "fail" a certain percentage of vehicles, the State will send in "test" vehicles to try and bust the Smog station for illegally passing vehicles that have "something" wrong, which could be as simple as a disconnected hose that would automatically "fail" a "visual" inspection as no repairs or modifications are allowed. Here's another "trick" to passing smog: When you go in, ask the Smog station to "check the readiness monitors to be sure the car is ready to be smogged." They will 100% check the monitors anyway, usually before they even do a visual they will hook up their scan tool and see if there are any codes or Check Engine Lights, an automatic fail.
But, if you ask them to check for "readiness" first, then they cannot fail you if your car is not ready, because you asked them to check BEFORE they started any test procedures. If you don't ask, and they test to see the readiness monitors are not ready, then it's an automatic fail. Again, if they were to do this simple courtesy for every customer, then a large percentage of fails would not be sent away with an automatic fail. Then, the percentage of passes would be abnormally high, and that smog station would get flagged by California's Bureau of Automotive Repairs (BAR) and they'd start sending in test vehicles to bust the station.
Often, the Smog station will tell people to 'drive 50 miles' or some such advice to 'clear' the monitors. However, there are many 'drive cycle procedures' that one might follow that could clear and ready the system in under ten or twenty miles. I have gone to smog's that the Evap was not clear, and have driven over 200 miles and it still doesn't clear, despite doing very rigid adherence to a drive-cycle procedure. The Evap can literally go 500 miles and still not clear. Some unethical stations will tell you that the car 'failed' if the Evap is not ready. But, it doesn't have to be for certain years and types of cars.
BTW: I've used Catyclean with some success, including helping my MPG increase as well as helping pass smog. Having sold about 100 used cars in the last five years, I"ve had plenty of smogs. Usually, you want to go in when the car is nice and hot, having driven about 20 miles or so before the smog, and tuned up the car and be sure you hook up everything as it should be. For example, leaving a vacuum hose off the airbox will be an automatic visual fail. For all that smog tech knows, you are from the BAR and trying to bust them for simply helping out someone by saying, "Hey, looks like you left your vacuum hose off."
When I was a kid, back in the 1970's, it was common to see cars going down the road leaving so much smog that you could not see across the street after they drove by. So, it is an important thing to help with the air quality. But, three are definitely some smog places that lie to people and say that the car is not ready when all it is is the Evap, and they tell the person to go out and drive, which is not at all guaranteed to clear an evap. I've personally put over 1,000 miles on a car and the Evap doesn't clear.
Thank you for being a great help!!
Excellent video - many thanks
I just recently purchased a brand new 2023 Rav4 and OVERFILLED my gas tank twice out of ignorance obviously. That's how recent I've purchased the vehicle.
I'm nuts with this thing and with doing things RIGHT. Do you think ANY damage could have been done to the system with just TWO times?
No but stop overfilling the tank.
Thanks bro you were a big help
What happen if purge valve not openning? How many minutes to open the purge valve?
How about no CEL, no DTCs, no driving symptoms, but have a yellow light on the code reader and a flashing EVA that won’t reset. I’ve inspected the canister and all of the hose connections for leaks and removed and cleaned the foam filter inside the canister.
Excellent info! Nicely presented. I enjoy having all that information in a nice reference bundle like that.
Thanks
Also car does not start after gas fill, just turns... p0441 and running lean? Help!!!
I’ve had this code for a while come and go on my 06 Jeep WK since I bought it maybe 3 years ago. I’ve spent $5k in repairs and/or parts
I’ve replaced the gas cap multiple times. I also need to replace my thermostat, it’s not reaching operating temperature , on the cold side.
Let’s just say if you prolong an Evap code and/or another engine related problem..you’ll encounter numerous problems. Of course gas smells, but things such as weird noises and heavy rough idle and recently stalling… I’m going to get my Evap system checked soon, I believe it may be something associated with the canister, as I’ve replaced the purge valve over a year ago
Tanks for all that info😊
It does not have to be the canister it's self that cause gas to smell I just had this problem and it was my vent solenoid that's located on the canister .
I know that my Evap canister is not functioning, but I am noticing white smoke also when the car is ON and not moving. Is this related to the evap system issues? Also, please advise me where can I find a brand NEW replacement of my canister for infinity q50.
Thanks, very useful.
Great info. Thanks
I only get occasional gas smell. No filling shut off, Mileage is OK. Replaced filler assembly, no luck. Mine is capless
Thank you so much 😊
Nice and informative, thanks.
I have a Toyota with a p0446, is that the purge valve by the charcoal canister? Sometimes when I start the car there is a gas smell but then it goes away.
My s550 mustang 3.7 canister is likely bad due to age of 8 years old. And I been getting rich conditions and some lean conditions and the car would shake after getting gas as well.
My car is giving off a strong propane gas smell when running. Would has vapors change their smell after interacting with the charcoal?
Good information!!!
I have all those symptoms on my 2007 Honda pilot EXL but I’m also getting a check fuel cap but I already replaced it can the charcoal canister be the problem for that too
Every now and then after I’ve been driving and shut the car off and restart it, I get a gurgling pulsating sound coming from the passenger side, and if I pop the hood and squeeze the line going from the purge solenoid to the intake, the gurgling stops until I unpinch it, no codes no CEL, I do have crappy gas mileage and smell super rich gas fumes, starts fine runs fine, it just started doing this
If you don’t mind there’s a video here on YT titled “Infiniti G35 “weird noise” and thats exactly the sound I have
Is the charcoal filter similar to a catalytic converter in diesel engines?
I have some other symptoms. My gas gauge is stuck at 3/4 (it goes to zero when I turn off the car). I have bad smell of gas inside. It's worse when the car is off. What could it be, is it sending unit or EVAP system, or both? My fuel pump or fuel regulator are not cracked at top.
I bet that is your cluster, the instrument window behind your steering wheel.
This is great. I have the P0455 issue on my 2007 Tahoe. Will replace it soon. Would this also cause my acceleration to have a problem? When it's warm outside, the truck seems to bog down and refuse to accelerate. I'll have it floored and there'll be little to no acceleration. It doesn't feel like it's flooded, just won't accelerate. If I back off the throttle a little and accelerate slowly it will then accelerate "ok". Not a major issue, but concerning when trying to accelerate at a stop light or trying to merge onto a highway.
Fortunately it's not the transmission - it's not revving high, it's just not acceleration. (EDIT) Forgot to mention it seems to stick at about 1500 RPM when it's doing this.
How did that turn out because my 2016 tucson is doing the exact same thing
@@krasmurdokI haven’t gotten around to it yet. Other priorities have gotten in the way 😂
@@m1cajah understood
@@krasmurdok it might also be your throttle position sensor or the (accelerator) pedal position sensor...and I'd lean toward the pedal position sensor. Pretty easy fix. What's happening in my case (I just learned) is mine is going into "limp mode" and limiting my throttle revs (I'm maxed at 1500 rpm) and keeping me at 2nd or 3rd gear. Should take about 20 minutes max to replace it. I just ordered the part.
This is amazing. Thank you.
YOU DA MAN BRA I STAMP EVERYTHING U SAID ANSWERED MY QUESTION ILL PAY TOP DOLLAR FOR YOU TO BE MY MECHANIC 💫💫💫
I have every signal of a bad vapor canister like the gas pump stopping unless I pull the nozzle all the way out to the tip of the fuel tube and pump slow, Car reeks of super rich gas fumes for a good two minutes after you start the car inside and out, bad gas mileage, engine twitches But doesn’t affect the RPMs, And also, after I finally do fill up the tank after several tries, I get a chugging sound coming through the passenger side dash, and if I squeeze the vacuum line between the purge solenoid and the intake it stops, take a little while to settle down when I come to a stoplight, but I have zero codes and no CEL
That’s your vent valve being stuck closed, not your charcoal canister
@@majicdude88 the vent valve on the canister? I’ll replace it, looks like a 10 minute job on my car g35 coupe
@@majicdude88 I can also hear when I’m getting low on gas. My fuel pump starts grumbling louder. It never used to do that before only in the last month or two.
@@majicdude88 also I don’t know if it means anything but every time I turn my key on my pump primes, even if I shut the key off and turn it back on it primes again and if I turn the key off right away and turn it back on right away the pump primes again and so on like somethings not holding pressure, car starts and runs fine
I watched video how to refurbish .so i sid it its easy just buy bag of activated charcoal cut end open clean foam filters .replace clean xharcoal glue end bavk together .works great.
Very useful
If you want to smoke test your EVAP lines, do you do it from the service port? And do you have to pull any other hose off for venting so the smoke can get down the line?
Where is my charcoal canister located on my 96 ford ranger?
Question for you. I only get the check engine light when I park on the fourth floor of were I work. P0442. I have changed the purge valve and the vent valve too. If I drive on level road it never comes on. Only comes on when it’s parked on elevated fourth floor. You have anything for me. Haha
Nice Vid.I Have Oderless Throat burning fumes in my honda accord 21.could it be a clogged evap?!thanks
New subscriber, thank you!
Do I need to program my car if I need to change my carbon canisters
Hi i have a hyundai accent 2007 and im having problems starting the car after i put gasolina, i put new the gas cap, vapor canister purge valve, which is next to the throttle, the other valve that is on the valve cover and also the oone located next to the canister and still having problems, let me know what can it be, it's driving me crazy. Thanks and great video
Was it your fuel filter
Hello. I have a 06 ram 1500 and recently i can smell raw gas near the drivers side rear wheel well after i drive it home and park it. I looked under it and there were no leaks that i could see. I tried to look on top of the gas tank as best i could. I didnt see any obvious leaks but really could not see well. I looked at the evap csnister ans hoses. All looked ok and i didnt detect any gas odor around the canister. I could see the fuel pump on top of the tank and therd was another device up there but i dont know what it is. No check engine light. Any ideas.
Mine shows a small evap leak. Tried changing the canister, not it. Very hard to find small leak.
You do not start with the charcoal filter . There is an evap solenoid by the tank and another vapor sensor by the engine .on chevys. Changing the charcoal tank would be last on the list of things to.check lol but 1 of the steps none the less . P o449 code does not just mean charcoal cannister
Thank you for the video it helps
I wondering if a hard to fill up gas tank could be the the leak detect leak pump or switch? and not the canister I have a P4149 switch pressure
Have none of the sign, light still on, so what it could be? Please
I’m replacing mine because of the small and large leak detected ..question should I reset code or just let the computer reset itself after I replace it 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7
Hello, I’ve taken my 02 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L truck to different auto parts stores to check why my engine light keeps going on and off. They all gave me a P0443 code. They say it’s the canister purge valve. I have replaced it 3 times with new ones but, the engine light still goes on and off. What else do you recommend me to do? 🤔
Did you figure out ?
Hi exactly that is my car problem can you recommend place to repair my iam in los Angeles thanks
Mercedez benz e350 2009
Will a damaged canister cause a lean condition on both banks?
Yes
@@Top5AutoRepairs Thanks. I've been trying to locate the problem in my blazer. When I fuel up the check engine light will turn off for a while but will come back on.
Great Info 👍🏽 Thanks
Hello, i have a little bit of fuel smell when i start-up the car, now when i put my car to obd diagnostic and i go under "charcoal valve" the valve opens and closes every second, should valve work like that or not?
I have a 2012 Honda Civic LX and I'm getting a p420 code and an EVAP code. I'd like to buy just a cheap cat to get me by because I plan on buying a new car after 2 years. Do you think if I buy an aftermarket cheap eBay cat it'll pass emissions as long as I fix the EVAP code as well
I realize I had a bad charcoal canister when I found charcoal in the carburetor on a pre fuel injection vehicle.
Filled up my 2011 Kluger /Highlander today and that happened to me, the fuel nozzle kept clicking off every 2 seconds, what do you recommend i do?, if left will it get to the stage were i won't be able to put fuel in it at all?
Ty
Hi very informative video. I have a 2016 Corolla with strong fuel smell coming from AC vents first 1-2 min after being started in morning, then clear normal air and no engine codes. Any idea of what could be my issue?
A leaking heater core, you are smelling coolant
@@kellismith4329 Hi, thanks for the comment I think that is a very possible problem.
Good info, I have a 06 titan with check engine on? I changed code sensor p0057 and I changed purge valve p0047 that code never came back. But 02 sensor one did ? Wierd because shop fixed that 02 sensor what can be the cause should I take truck back to them ??
Great I fo my guy tyvm
Thank you for a very excellent detailed video!
I have a 98 pathfinder and my car is experiencing some symptoms where I’ll step on the gas and it’ll shift into 1st and 2nd but it hit the rev limiter shifting into 3rd. I’ve replaced the evap solenoid due to one of the hoses having carbon deposit built it up in it. Should I then replace the vent solenoid after emptying out my charcoal canister?
Twenty thirteen escalade changed purge valve vent sylanoid And vapor charcoal canister and I still can't pump gas without it keep stopping
Would this be something that makes my car not turn on after getting gas any other day it turns on just fine, only after getting gas
Does the engine shake too?
Does a damaged canister affect acceleration? I recently changed my Gas pump and filter and it’s still failing to accelerate when I press the gas pedal
Fuel pressure regulator.
great job mate. :-)
Hello Auto repairs, i am using the same Lexus RX300, 1999 model engine 1MZFE. the accident was made by swap/connecting the Vacuum Surge Tank pipe to the water outlet there just below it. The system was filled with water until the water comes out at The Charcoal Canister through the Air Drain Horse. We have tried to remove the water by sucking and blowing through the pipes and even put the new service kit since we found some plugs socked in water. but still the car wont start but cranks. what advice can you give sir
It seems like water made its way into the combustion chamber. Remove all spark plugs, remove water from the combustion chamber and next conduct a compression test. Hopefully the engine didn't hydrolock and caused mechanical damage.
Will this prevent my car from starting