Thank you for explaining how this charcoal fuel filter canister works. I saw mine hanging down and took it in for repair. Guy asked if I ran over something. Funny because I had just traveled over those raggedy New York highways... He also said it was hanging on by a zip tie, with. Hadn't noticed any fuel odor, so don't think it was cracked. The bracket holding it up was "cracked".
My car ES350 2010, have small leak code, with both traction and engine light on. Got used one from junkyard for $25 and it’s clear now! Lexus dealer asked $2100 to replace it 😂
Thank you. Yes definitely that’s what’s going on. I over filled my tank trying to get as much gas in there as I could and ever since then my truck hesitates to take of. I am hoping to be able to fix this my self.
Thank you so much for explaining how this really simple system works. Causes so many problems and unfortunately, a lot of people get taken to the cleaners when they go to an auto mechanic. I like to do my own work and feel satisfied when I figure it out I hope I figure this out. Lol.
Thank you for your awesome explaining video. My car before drive around 45 mls/ gallon ( Prius 2007) and now only 25-27 miles/ gallon. it shows the code P0455 and it doesn’t smell gas at all. I’ve already check the purge valve but it still work properly. Do you think it is from charcoal canister problem ? Or anything relate to that problem ? Thank you 👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thanks bud appreciate it I've narrowed down my assumption to the gas pump constantly shutting off when pumping to the charcoal cannister and the cannister purge valve
Thank you man I love you videos you take the time to explain every detail and the cause of it we appreciate it keep doing what you're doing man God bless
Your channel should have 2 million subscribers, by the way Sir if at all possible may I request a topic regarding pre ignition or pre detonation that causes that light pinging sound during acceleration and how to fix it? Thanks Sir
How would you know if it's the vent solenoid valve going bad and not the charcoal canister going bad, is there a test for that? I replaced the purge valve and the gas cap and the codes came back, so it could be the vent solenoid valve or the charcoal canister or both, how would I know?
I noticed my 2002 toyota 4runner wouldn't fill up at the pump without me holding the trigger down to fill...thanks for this video. I'm gonna check out my charcoal filter asap.
@@day1fishing603 well I have the same issue but I changed the gas cap two years ago and its oem. I called the dealership but they said I should have them inspect it because it can be the filler neck
I had the same problem on a 2006 Ford. It was the fuel tank purge valve. It was stuck closed. When the engine was turned off the valve was supposed to open so the fumes could travel to the charcoal canister and be stored so they could be burned off when the engine is started and running. When it was stuck closed the fumes created when filling the tank had nowhere to go. The gas pump would shut off. The only way to get gas into the tank was you had to hold the handle on the nozzle. Also when the tank reached full fuel would be forced up and out of the filler neck. I changed the valve sensor, and that cured the problem.
I have a Toyota with a p0446, is that the purge valve by the charcoal canister? Sometimes when I start the car there is a gas smell but then it goes away.
Oh wow I was thought that it was the way the fuel hole where you fill it up how it was at a angle My every time I pump gas I have to hold the handle otherwise it always clicks off well thank you
I have some other symptoms. My gas gauge is stuck at 3/4 (it goes to zero when I turn off the car). I have bad smell of gas inside. It's worse when the car is off. What could it be, is it sending unit or EVAP system, or both? My fuel pump or fuel regulator are not cracked at top.
Evap systems send unburnt gas back into your engine so you're making your car less fuel efficient bypassing it. Also the fumes are bad for you. Basically not fixing it is very stupid (& so is Florida's lack of emissions standards imo)
I have a 1998 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder. 175,000 miles. Great condition. Stock. My tank gets alarmingly pressurized when driven a couple hundred miles. I don't have any codes. My Nissan gas cap visually inspects clean and good. Does not leak. I even disconnected all hoses on the EVAP system and cracked the gas cap. No codes were made either. How can that be? I drove it dozens of miles to test. To see if the missing stopped or codes would appear. No codes, except random misfire. Every now and then, but the motor is obviously missing mildly to badly all the time. It gets worse for a while when I refuel. For a few dozen miles. When this system started doing this, I started getting a random misfire code at the same time. These may be unrelated. Not sure. I have verified purge valve works, hoses are clear now. One was dirty about 2" clogged at the canister for the purge line. It looked like charcoal dust. All other hoses clear. Any ideas? I was going to remove the plug from the cannister ambient vent valve and see what that did. It should toss a code right? And make the valve open, from my understanding? I don't want the tank to pressurize like that again. It will spew and hiss for about 6 minutes when cap is removed. I've never seen a vehicle do it this badly before. Thanks!
If you want to smoke test your EVAP lines, do you do it from the service port? And do you have to pull any other hose off for venting so the smoke can get down the line?
great video ,, i have 08 mountaineer v8 ,, code P0135,P0141,P0155,P0161 and P0443 came up all at once , i noticed that when putting fuel in the car and the car in ON then it shut off while fueling ,,, can this be a canister problem ? ..
Excellent presentation Sir! It's ok to check solenoid 1st!. Slide underneath SAFELY with buddy aid, then visually check condition of canister housing, connections, tightness of all hoses ...ty
Question? Please. At the back one hose get disconnected and a clear liquid leak from this hose ( the evap line). I reconnected with a new ring that was full rusted. But i wonder that liquid ,what is this? and should i purge the liquid ? Is it suppose to be dry and empty ( gas is no liquid!).
Hi i have a hyundai accent 2007 and im having problems starting the car after i put gasolina, i put new the gas cap, vapor canister purge valve, which is next to the throttle, the other valve that is on the valve cover and also the oone located next to the canister and still having problems, let me know what can it be, it's driving me crazy. Thanks and great video
2005 toyota corolla Ce, no fault code,brand new 02 sensor upstream and downstream but the upstream is not ready or incomplete. No check engine light on.
I’m replacing mine because of the small and large leak detected ..question should I reset code or just let the computer reset itself after I replace it 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7
Thanks for the video. I have been trying to tell people what there problem might be. But no one wants to listen. After I show them this video maybe they might listen to. Oh yeah most or should I say all of them what I think there car problems are I tell them what I think and they always seem to reply that I don't know what I am talking about. So why ask for my opinion in the first place? Oh yeah 👍 great advice.
It does not have to be the canister it's self that cause gas to smell I just had this problem and it was my vent solenoid that's located on the canister .
Does it cause a sudden drop in MPG? I can hear an intermittent sort of noise like a momentary vacuum leak. Particularly loud first start up or at low speed in a parking lot for example. 03, S10, 4.3 ltr.
Thank you sir, I had several issues, one was the fuel pump (I ran it bone dry one day when I was doing work, didn't notice the low fuel light) then like you said, the pump handle kept tripping off) After filling the tank up, it wouldn't start. I'll be pulling the evap canister today!
I have a 2012 Honda Civic LX and I'm getting a p420 code and an EVAP code. I'd like to buy just a cheap cat to get me by because I plan on buying a new car after 2 years. Do you think if I buy an aftermarket cheap eBay cat it'll pass emissions as long as I fix the EVAP code as well
Hi very informative video. I have a 2016 Corolla with strong fuel smell coming from AC vents first 1-2 min after being started in morning, then clear normal air and no engine codes. Any idea of what could be my issue?
Hello, I’ve taken my 02 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L truck to different auto parts stores to check why my engine light keeps going on and off. They all gave me a P0443 code. They say it’s the canister purge valve. I have replaced it 3 times with new ones but, the engine light still goes on and off. What else do you recommend me to do? 🤔
My friend clipped the nozzle to filler neck as he filled my gas tank I never stress the filler neck I don't lime to hang heavy object from it this causes GASCAP in my dash after driving it cleared only for check light engine to come on with code P0420 the catalytic malfunctioning and its not going away, and after checking filler neck it looks damaged like wobbling and not sealed so vapors could be escaping, could this have caused this code to come on I've had no overheating problems or any other problems for this to have come on
Hello, i have a little bit of fuel smell when i start-up the car, now when i put my car to obd diagnostic and i go under "charcoal valve" the valve opens and closes every second, should valve work like that or not?
I know that my Evap canister is not functioning, but I am noticing white smoke also when the car is ON and not moving. Is this related to the evap system issues? Also, please advise me where can I find a brand NEW replacement of my canister for infinity q50.
I have all those symptoms on my 2007 Honda pilot EXL but I’m also getting a check fuel cap but I already replaced it can the charcoal canister be the problem for that too
Good info, I have a 06 titan with check engine on? I changed code sensor p0057 and I changed purge valve p0047 that code never came back. But 02 sensor one did ? Wierd because shop fixed that 02 sensor what can be the cause should I take truck back to them ??
@@Top5AutoRepairs Thanks. I've been trying to locate the problem in my blazer. When I fuel up the check engine light will turn off for a while but will come back on.
My check engine light and VSC tracking light were flashing two weeks back on my 2010 Corolla LE. At that time I had just filled my gas tank and noticed a strong gas vapor as I drove out of the gas station. Didn't think of it much as I thought it's some other car. Later on, I got the check engine lights and VSC tacking lights. My mechanic diagnosed the code as P0456 Evap Emission Control System Leak detected (very small leak). So, they replaced the gas cap with an OEM and reset the codes. So far the lights have not come on. Went to the gas station yesterday and filled up my tank. After I started driving, I smelled a strong gas vapor/fume. I pulled over and then opened the trunk after turning off the car and could smell the gas vapors/fumes in there. Is this a bad charchoal canister or vent?
Hello. I have a 06 ram 1500 and recently i can smell raw gas near the drivers side rear wheel well after i drive it home and park it. I looked under it and there were no leaks that i could see. I tried to look on top of the gas tank as best i could. I didnt see any obvious leaks but really could not see well. I looked at the evap csnister ans hoses. All looked ok and i didnt detect any gas odor around the canister. I could see the fuel pump on top of the tank and therd was another device up there but i dont know what it is. No check engine light. Any ideas.
Question for you. I only get the check engine light when I park on the fourth floor of were I work. P0442. I have changed the purge valve and the vent valve too. If I drive on level road it never comes on. Only comes on when it’s parked on elevated fourth floor. You have anything for me. Haha
What if you have a very small evap leak ? I’ve had small issues with my 2005 mustang gt for years. I replaced the fuel cap and the evap purge valve with oem motorcraft parts but still once a year I get the same code and clear it and it’s fine for awhile.
All good, except: "In California, 2000 and newer model year vehicles will need all emission monitors in READY or COMPLETE status with the exception of the EVAP monitor. An incomplete evaporative monitor will not cause a smog check failure. The Bureau of Automotive Repairs has reduced the number of allowable incomplete OBD II readiness monitors for both the new BAR-OIS smog inspection system and the BAR-97 smog inspections systems, however the EVAP monitor is the one monitor that is still allowed to remain Not Ready and will not cause a smog test failure." However: In the real world, Smog Inspection businesses are highly monitored by the State, and if they don't "fail" a certain percentage of vehicles, the State will send in "test" vehicles to try and bust the Smog station for illegally passing vehicles that have "something" wrong, which could be as simple as a disconnected hose that would automatically "fail" a "visual" inspection as no repairs or modifications are allowed. Here's another "trick" to passing smog: When you go in, ask the Smog station to "check the readiness monitors to be sure the car is ready to be smogged." They will 100% check the monitors anyway, usually before they even do a visual they will hook up their scan tool and see if there are any codes or Check Engine Lights, an automatic fail. But, if you ask them to check for "readiness" first, then they cannot fail you if your car is not ready, because you asked them to check BEFORE they started any test procedures. If you don't ask, and they test to see the readiness monitors are not ready, then it's an automatic fail. Again, if they were to do this simple courtesy for every customer, then a large percentage of fails would not be sent away with an automatic fail. Then, the percentage of passes would be abnormally high, and that smog station would get flagged by California's Bureau of Automotive Repairs (BAR) and they'd start sending in test vehicles to bust the station. Often, the Smog station will tell people to 'drive 50 miles' or some such advice to 'clear' the monitors. However, there are many 'drive cycle procedures' that one might follow that could clear and ready the system in under ten or twenty miles. I have gone to smog's that the Evap was not clear, and have driven over 200 miles and it still doesn't clear, despite doing very rigid adherence to a drive-cycle procedure. The Evap can literally go 500 miles and still not clear. Some unethical stations will tell you that the car 'failed' if the Evap is not ready. But, it doesn't have to be for certain years and types of cars. BTW: I've used Catyclean with some success, including helping my MPG increase as well as helping pass smog. Having sold about 100 used cars in the last five years, I"ve had plenty of smogs. Usually, you want to go in when the car is nice and hot, having driven about 20 miles or so before the smog, and tuned up the car and be sure you hook up everything as it should be. For example, leaving a vacuum hose off the airbox will be an automatic visual fail. For all that smog tech knows, you are from the BAR and trying to bust them for simply helping out someone by saying, "Hey, looks like you left your vacuum hose off." When I was a kid, back in the 1970's, it was common to see cars going down the road leaving so much smog that you could not see across the street after they drove by. So, it is an important thing to help with the air quality. But, three are definitely some smog places that lie to people and say that the car is not ready when all it is is the Evap, and they tell the person to go out and drive, which is not at all guaranteed to clear an evap. I've personally put over 1,000 miles on a car and the Evap doesn't clear.
Can the cannister be bad but not shut gas off constantly when pumping? I see that a lot of people have replaced a lot of parts and spent a ton to do it but keep having the same problems. I have seen videos showing people using a cover on the capless gas tank and stoping the codes and the problems starting after gassing up. Can it be as simple as covering the flapper on the capless gas system neck? Very worried about going to our dealership as they have been very clear about wanting me to trade my car so they can have it for their used inventory. My car is low mileage and in great condition and one they don't make anymore so I do not feel comfortable going to the dealer for service right now. I love my car and no way I'm trading it, but this actually only started after going in for them to take a tack out of my tire (which did not damage) and an oil change. They also scraped brake calipers to "check brakes" and had some decent debris and dirt in the wheel wells. I understand debris can cause the flappers in the capless gas inlet. No problems prior but we drove out with rough engine and then a few weeks later stalled at gas up first time. Wondering if the debris could have gotten into the gas fill area? Seems odd to have this only after going in for service but not before. Trust level gone but I don't know any good mechanics. We have 1 car and I need it not to stall on gas up. Also saw a video where someone said the seals on the flappers of the capless gas opening can erode and need to be maintained. They showed spraying compressed air to clean flapper area and then wd 40 or liquid silicone and using the funnel that comes with Ford Fusion to push in and out of gas opening 30 times to clean and recondition the seals. I have a p0496 small leak that I read can be from debris in a gas tank opening flapper seal. Have you heard of this and do you have any thoughts on it. Can doing that funnel thing cause any damage? Thanks.
@@lightningfisher8177 I know. I have the worst feeling about going there bc Ford wants my car and have been very obvious about it. All they have to do is tell me they cannot fix it or it is unsafe to drive once they have it and I am stuck without my car that I love. I have seen reviews of this. But I don't know where else to take it and where there are good mechanics here in Central FL. I have heard there is a shortage of good mechanics and those who are good are being bid on so lots of repair places are doing low bids for their workers. Also I am still inside of warranty and don't want to void it by having service done and having Ford tell me bc of that my warranty is gone. Right now we have the gas neck dirt inlet cover and some people say it works to stop this stalling at gas up and the leak situation but I don't want to make it worse by using it without knowing everything about it first. I need someone with automotive knowledge to tell me what I should do as I want my working car back! It's a small leak and if just at the gas cap area I don't want to have every part replaced one at a time at the dealer and then the car to be kept by them. Sorry for the essay.
I have a 98 pathfinder and my car is experiencing some symptoms where I’ll step on the gas and it’ll shift into 1st and 2nd but it hit the rev limiter shifting into 3rd. I’ve replaced the evap solenoid due to one of the hoses having carbon deposit built it up in it. Should I then replace the vent solenoid after emptying out my charcoal canister?
My s550 mustang 3.7 canister is likely bad due to age of 8 years old. And I been getting rich conditions and some lean conditions and the car would shake after getting gas as well.
How about no CEL, no DTCs, no driving symptoms, but have a yellow light on the code reader and a flashing EVA that won’t reset. I’ve inspected the canister and all of the hose connections for leaks and removed and cleaned the foam filter inside the canister.
Dear sir, I can fill up the car up but,about 1 hour it stalls out and I have to take a can of extra gas with me after I add the gasoline, it starts up just fine after it gets to the fuel lines can you help me with this question ❓
Hello Auto repairs, i am using the same Lexus RX300, 1999 model engine 1MZFE. the accident was made by swap/connecting the Vacuum Surge Tank pipe to the water outlet there just below it. The system was filled with water until the water comes out at The Charcoal Canister through the Air Drain Horse. We have tried to remove the water by sucking and blowing through the pipes and even put the new service kit since we found some plugs socked in water. but still the car wont start but cranks. what advice can you give sir
It seems like water made its way into the combustion chamber. Remove all spark plugs, remove water from the combustion chamber and next conduct a compression test. Hopefully the engine didn't hydrolock and caused mechanical damage.
Thank you for explaining how this charcoal fuel filter canister works. I saw mine hanging down and took it in for repair. Guy asked if I ran over something. Funny because I had just traveled over those raggedy New York highways... He also said it was hanging on by a zip tie, with. Hadn't noticed any fuel odor, so don't think it was cracked. The bracket holding it up was "cracked".
Wwwww2
Thank you for taking the time to do all your videos. Two of them have helped me out. Didn’t have to spend big money at a machine shop.
Even me it helped abt the high pressure pump.
Thank you. I have 2 of the symptoms full-time and one of them intermittently. And now I know why you've saved me a lot of aggravation
THATS WHY THE GAS NOZZLE ALWAYS GOES OFF man that was irritating the HELL out of me lol. Great video man!
My car ES350 2010, have small leak code, with both traction and engine light on.
Got used one from junkyard for $25 and it’s clear now! Lexus dealer asked $2100 to replace it 😂
Thank you. You saved me money from taking it to the dealership to have it checked out 🙌
How did he help u ?
Thank you. Yes definitely that’s what’s going on. I over filled my tank trying to get as much gas in there as I could and ever since then my truck hesitates to take of. I am hoping to be able to fix this my self.
I believe that I did the same thing
Can also be the purge valve
When the pump clicks off do not pump more gas into the tank
Thank you so much for explaining how this really simple system works. Causes so many problems and unfortunately, a lot of people get taken to the cleaners when they go to an auto mechanic. I like to do my own work and feel satisfied when I figure it out I hope I figure this out. Lol.
Yes I noticed more gas consumption and check engine comes on when the vehicle hesitated to start. Thanks for the advice.
That's awesome dude. Thanks for sharing so quickly and to the point. Mine looks like crap and the hoses are old so it might be time.
Thank you for your awesome explaining video. My car before drive around 45 mls/ gallon ( Prius 2007) and now only 25-27 miles/ gallon. it shows the code P0455 and it doesn’t smell gas at all. I’ve already check the purge valve but it still work properly. Do you think it is from charcoal canister problem ? Or anything relate to that problem ? Thank you 👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thanks bud appreciate it I've narrowed down my assumption to the gas pump constantly shutting off when pumping to the charcoal cannister and the cannister purge valve
Thank you man I love you videos you take the time to explain every detail and the cause of it we appreciate it keep doing what you're doing man God bless
Thanks also there is foul smell coming out of the exhaust
Your channel should have 2 million subscribers, by the way Sir if at all possible may I request a topic regarding pre ignition or pre detonation that causes that light pinging sound during acceleration and how to fix it? Thanks Sir
That's usually ignition timing.
I have a code p1450 and the engine shuts off a few times only after i get gas. Would this be a purge valve issue?
How would you know if it's the vent solenoid valve going bad and not the charcoal canister going bad, is there a test for that? I replaced the purge valve and the gas cap and the codes came back, so it could be the vent solenoid valve or the charcoal canister or both, how would I know?
Are you getting a p1450 like me?
Thank you so much man I subscribed because you were the only person to point this out!!
Well worth viewing. Subscribed.
Yes! I found this super informative and very well explained. You are great. Thank you!!!
I noticed my 2002 toyota 4runner wouldn't fill up at the pump without me holding the trigger down to fill...thanks for this video. I'm gonna check out my charcoal filter asap.
Hi I have a question I have a 01 4runner the same issue when I fill gas it shuts off. Was it the canister?
@joel87555 I changed the gas cap, and it worked fine. But I'm waiting for the computer to reset and see if it fixed it. Lmk how yours goes..
@@day1fishing603 well I have the same issue but I changed the gas cap two years ago and its oem. I called the dealership but they said I should have them inspect it because it can be the filler neck
I had the same problem on a 2006 Ford. It was the fuel tank purge valve. It was stuck closed. When the engine was turned off the valve was supposed to open so the fumes could travel to the charcoal canister and be stored so they could be burned off when the engine is started and running. When it was stuck closed the fumes created when filling the tank had nowhere to go. The gas pump would shut off. The only way to get gas into the tank was you had to hold the handle on the nozzle. Also when the tank reached full fuel would be forced up and out of the filler neck. I changed the valve sensor, and that cured the problem.
How should we go about replacing the hoses? What size hoses should we use? Where to buy?
Did you ever find one? Thanks
I have a Toyota with a p0446, is that the purge valve by the charcoal canister? Sometimes when I start the car there is a gas smell but then it goes away.
Do you have a video replacing the charcoal canister?
Thanks, great detail. I bought a cheap smoke machine n saw a leak near the canister. I've been getting P 0172 too rich
Could you tell me the procedure in removing my canister?Can I just remove the hoses and then attach a new one? Or is it more complicated than that?
It's quite simple. Detach the hoses, evap lines, electrical connections etc...
my 06 corolla has 6 fault codes,,,wont pass emmisions,,and i cant pump gas into it unless very slow,,,great video---
Would there also be a high EVP vapor pressure like 16332 Pa?
Oh wow I was thought that it was the way the fuel hole where you fill it up how it was at a angle My every time I pump gas I have to hold the handle otherwise it always clicks off well thank you
Very helpful and easy to understand. Thank you for making this video!
I have some other symptoms. My gas gauge is stuck at 3/4 (it goes to zero when I turn off the car). I have bad smell of gas inside. It's worse when the car is off. What could it be, is it sending unit or EVAP system, or both? My fuel pump or fuel regulator are not cracked at top.
I bet that is your cluster, the instrument window behind your steering wheel.
What if I bypass the charcoal canister😮. I live in Florida where we don't have emmision testing nor do we need to deal with safety stickers 😅
😀
You're wasting money not using an EVAP system.
Evap systems send unburnt gas back into your engine so you're making your car less fuel efficient bypassing it. Also the fumes are bad for you. Basically not fixing it is very stupid (& so is Florida's lack of emissions standards imo)
@@platedlizardlol I see your definition of stupid
thank you!! i have two symtomps .1 smell gas inside and out of my car 2. bad mpg
You solved that problems? How?
Had a po448 and 447 on my 2006 Subaru sti. Big pita fiquring out the fix.
I have and had all those symptoms on my 1988 Town Car . I replaced the canister and still can’t fill my tank? What do you think is wrong?
Learning is always useful! Thanks
Great video! I think I will finally get my problem solved. Thanks for your insight.
Charcoal pellets are found in the evap purge valve, does that mean I need the canister replaced?
Correct, it should be replaced
Is the charcoal filter similar to a catalytic converter in diesel engines?
Can this cause my tank to leak fuel
I have a 1998 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder. 175,000 miles. Great condition. Stock. My tank gets alarmingly pressurized when driven a couple hundred miles. I don't have any codes. My Nissan gas cap visually inspects clean and good. Does not leak.
I even disconnected all hoses on the EVAP system and cracked the gas cap. No codes were made either. How can that be? I drove it dozens of miles to test. To see if the missing stopped or codes would appear. No codes, except random misfire. Every now and then, but the motor is obviously missing mildly to badly all the time. It gets worse for a while when I refuel. For a few dozen miles.
When this system started doing this, I started getting a random misfire code at the same time. These may be unrelated. Not sure.
I have verified purge valve works, hoses are clear now. One was dirty about 2" clogged at the canister for the purge line. It looked like charcoal dust. All other hoses clear.
Any ideas? I was going to remove the plug from the cannister ambient vent valve and see what that did. It should toss a code right? And make the valve open, from my understanding? I don't want the tank to pressurize like that again. It will spew and hiss for about 6 minutes when cap is removed. I've never seen a vehicle do it this badly before.
Thanks!
If you want to smoke test your EVAP lines, do you do it from the service port? And do you have to pull any other hose off for venting so the smoke can get down the line?
great video ,, i have 08 mountaineer v8 ,, code P0135,P0141,P0155,P0161 and P0443 came up all at once , i noticed that when putting fuel in the car and the car in ON then it shut off while fueling ,,, can this be a canister problem ? ..
Excellent presentation Sir! It's ok to check solenoid 1st!.
Slide underneath SAFELY with buddy aid, then visually check condition of canister housing, connections, tightness of all hoses ...ty
Question? Please. At the back one hose get disconnected and a clear liquid leak from this hose ( the evap line). I reconnected with a new ring that was full rusted. But i wonder that liquid ,what is this? and should i purge the liquid ? Is it suppose to be dry and empty ( gas is no liquid!).
My car is giving off a strong propane gas smell when running. Would has vapors change their smell after interacting with the charcoal?
Hi exactly that is my car problem can you recommend place to repair my iam in los Angeles thanks
Mercedez benz e350 2009
Hi i have a hyundai accent 2007 and im having problems starting the car after i put gasolina, i put new the gas cap, vapor canister purge valve, which is next to the throttle, the other valve that is on the valve cover and also the oone located next to the canister and still having problems, let me know what can it be, it's driving me crazy. Thanks and great video
Was it your fuel filter
I have same issue did you fix it and what was it?
2005 toyota corolla Ce, no fault code,brand new 02 sensor upstream and downstream but the upstream is not ready or incomplete. No check engine light on.
I’m replacing mine because of the small and large leak detected ..question should I reset code or just let the computer reset itself after I replace it 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7
Excellent work 👏🏾
Thanks for the video. I have been trying to tell people what there problem might be. But no one wants to listen. After I show them this video maybe they might listen to. Oh yeah most or should I say all of them what I think there car problems are I tell them what I think and they always seem to reply that I don't know what I am talking about. So why ask for my opinion in the first place? Oh yeah 👍 great advice.
It does not have to be the canister it's self that cause gas to smell I just had this problem and it was my vent solenoid that's located on the canister .
Does it cause a sudden drop in MPG? I can hear an intermittent sort of noise like a momentary vacuum leak. Particularly loud first start up or at low speed in a parking lot for example. 03, S10, 4.3 ltr.
Hello. It will affect gas mileage.
@@Top5AutoRepairs At least now I know where to look.
Thank you sir, I had several issues, one was the fuel pump (I ran it bone dry one day when I was doing work, didn't notice the low fuel light) then like you said, the pump handle kept tripping off) After filling the tank up, it wouldn't start. I'll be pulling the evap canister today!
Does the engine shake too?
Your awesome bro.
I have a 2012 Honda Civic LX and I'm getting a p420 code and an EVAP code. I'd like to buy just a cheap cat to get me by because I plan on buying a new car after 2 years. Do you think if I buy an aftermarket cheap eBay cat it'll pass emissions as long as I fix the EVAP code as well
What happen if purge valve not openning? How many minutes to open the purge valve?
Nice Vid.I Have Oderless Throat burning fumes in my honda accord 21.could it be a clogged evap?!thanks
Thank you. This makes so much sense.
Hi very informative video. I have a 2016 Corolla with strong fuel smell coming from AC vents first 1-2 min after being started in morning, then clear normal air and no engine codes. Any idea of what could be my issue?
A leaking heater core, you are smelling coolant
@@kellismith4329 Hi, thanks for the comment I think that is a very possible problem.
Great video
Hello, I’ve taken my 02 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L truck to different auto parts stores to check why my engine light keeps going on and off. They all gave me a P0443 code. They say it’s the canister purge valve. I have replaced it 3 times with new ones but, the engine light still goes on and off. What else do you recommend me to do? 🤔
Did you figure out ?
Thank you that last one been happening to me for years I think I’ve figured it out
My friend clipped the nozzle to filler neck as he filled my gas tank I never stress the filler neck I don't lime to hang heavy object from it this causes GASCAP in my dash after driving it cleared only for check light engine to come on with code P0420 the catalytic malfunctioning and its not going away, and after checking filler neck it looks damaged like wobbling and not sealed so vapors could be escaping, could this have caused this code to come on I've had no overheating problems or any other problems for this to have come on
Hello, i have a little bit of fuel smell when i start-up the car, now when i put my car to obd diagnostic and i go under "charcoal valve" the valve opens and closes every second, should valve work like that or not?
I know that my Evap canister is not functioning, but I am noticing white smoke also when the car is ON and not moving. Is this related to the evap system issues? Also, please advise me where can I find a brand NEW replacement of my canister for infinity q50.
I have all those symptoms on my 2007 Honda pilot EXL but I’m also getting a check fuel cap but I already replaced it can the charcoal canister be the problem for that too
Do I need to program my car if I need to change my carbon canisters
Thank you 👍
2021 Ford Echo sport
This video will help me alot
Tanks for all that info😊
Good info, I have a 06 titan with check engine on? I changed code sensor p0057 and I changed purge valve p0047 that code never came back. But 02 sensor one did ? Wierd because shop fixed that 02 sensor what can be the cause should I take truck back to them ??
I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9 engine it runs about 20 or 30 minutes there's no oil on the stick but when it cools off it's full of
Wheres your shop? Thanks
Will a damaged canister cause a lean condition on both banks?
Yes
@@Top5AutoRepairs Thanks. I've been trying to locate the problem in my blazer. When I fuel up the check engine light will turn off for a while but will come back on.
Is the error msg - engine on due to system/power needs? Kindly let me know thx
It can also trigger code P0172
My check engine light and VSC tracking light were flashing two weeks back on my 2010 Corolla LE. At that time I had just filled my gas tank and noticed a strong gas vapor as I drove out of the gas station. Didn't think of it much as I thought it's some other car. Later on, I got the check engine lights and VSC tacking lights. My mechanic diagnosed the code as P0456 Evap Emission Control System Leak detected (very small leak). So, they replaced the gas cap with an OEM and reset the codes. So far the lights have not come on. Went to the gas station yesterday and filled up my tank. After I started driving, I smelled a strong gas vapor/fume. I pulled over and then opened the trunk after turning off the car and could smell the gas vapors/fumes in there. Is this a bad charchoal canister or vent?
Also car does not start after gas fill, just turns... p0441 and running lean? Help!!!
Hello. I have a 06 ram 1500 and recently i can smell raw gas near the drivers side rear wheel well after i drive it home and park it. I looked under it and there were no leaks that i could see. I tried to look on top of the gas tank as best i could. I didnt see any obvious leaks but really could not see well. I looked at the evap csnister ans hoses. All looked ok and i didnt detect any gas odor around the canister. I could see the fuel pump on top of the tank and therd was another device up there but i dont know what it is. No check engine light. Any ideas.
Question for you. I only get the check engine light when I park on the fourth floor of were I work. P0442. I have changed the purge valve and the vent valve too. If I drive on level road it never comes on. Only comes on when it’s parked on elevated fourth floor. You have anything for me. Haha
I only get occasional gas smell. No filling shut off, Mileage is OK. Replaced filler assembly, no luck. Mine is capless
What if you have a very small evap leak ? I’ve had small issues with my 2005 mustang gt for years. I replaced the fuel cap and the evap purge valve with oem motorcraft parts but still once a year I get the same code and clear it and it’s fine for awhile.
Oh yeah I have that issue too. Filling up with gas sometimes is very hard. Getting past 8 gallons is very difficult sometimes
I wondering if a hard to fill up gas tank could be the the leak detect leak pump or switch? and not the canister I have a P4149 switch pressure
All good, except: "In California, 2000 and newer model year vehicles will need all emission monitors in READY or COMPLETE status with the exception of the EVAP monitor. An incomplete evaporative monitor will not cause a smog check failure. The Bureau of Automotive Repairs has reduced the number of allowable incomplete OBD II readiness monitors for both the new BAR-OIS smog inspection system and the BAR-97 smog inspections systems, however the EVAP monitor is the one monitor that is still allowed to remain Not Ready and will not cause a smog test failure." However: In the real world, Smog Inspection businesses are highly monitored by the State, and if they don't "fail" a certain percentage of vehicles, the State will send in "test" vehicles to try and bust the Smog station for illegally passing vehicles that have "something" wrong, which could be as simple as a disconnected hose that would automatically "fail" a "visual" inspection as no repairs or modifications are allowed. Here's another "trick" to passing smog: When you go in, ask the Smog station to "check the readiness monitors to be sure the car is ready to be smogged." They will 100% check the monitors anyway, usually before they even do a visual they will hook up their scan tool and see if there are any codes or Check Engine Lights, an automatic fail.
But, if you ask them to check for "readiness" first, then they cannot fail you if your car is not ready, because you asked them to check BEFORE they started any test procedures. If you don't ask, and they test to see the readiness monitors are not ready, then it's an automatic fail. Again, if they were to do this simple courtesy for every customer, then a large percentage of fails would not be sent away with an automatic fail. Then, the percentage of passes would be abnormally high, and that smog station would get flagged by California's Bureau of Automotive Repairs (BAR) and they'd start sending in test vehicles to bust the station.
Often, the Smog station will tell people to 'drive 50 miles' or some such advice to 'clear' the monitors. However, there are many 'drive cycle procedures' that one might follow that could clear and ready the system in under ten or twenty miles. I have gone to smog's that the Evap was not clear, and have driven over 200 miles and it still doesn't clear, despite doing very rigid adherence to a drive-cycle procedure. The Evap can literally go 500 miles and still not clear. Some unethical stations will tell you that the car 'failed' if the Evap is not ready. But, it doesn't have to be for certain years and types of cars.
BTW: I've used Catyclean with some success, including helping my MPG increase as well as helping pass smog. Having sold about 100 used cars in the last five years, I"ve had plenty of smogs. Usually, you want to go in when the car is nice and hot, having driven about 20 miles or so before the smog, and tuned up the car and be sure you hook up everything as it should be. For example, leaving a vacuum hose off the airbox will be an automatic visual fail. For all that smog tech knows, you are from the BAR and trying to bust them for simply helping out someone by saying, "Hey, looks like you left your vacuum hose off."
When I was a kid, back in the 1970's, it was common to see cars going down the road leaving so much smog that you could not see across the street after they drove by. So, it is an important thing to help with the air quality. But, three are definitely some smog places that lie to people and say that the car is not ready when all it is is the Evap, and they tell the person to go out and drive, which is not at all guaranteed to clear an evap. I've personally put over 1,000 miles on a car and the Evap doesn't clear.
Can the cannister be bad but not shut gas off constantly when pumping? I see that a lot of people have replaced a lot of parts and spent a ton to do it but keep having the same problems. I have seen videos showing people using a cover on the capless gas tank and stoping the codes and the problems starting after gassing up. Can it be as simple as covering the flapper on the capless gas system neck? Very worried about going to our dealership as they have been very clear about wanting me to trade my car so they can have it for their used inventory. My car is low mileage and in great condition and one they don't make anymore so I do not feel comfortable going to the dealer for service right now. I love my car and no way I'm trading it, but this actually only started after going in for them to take a tack out of my tire (which did not damage) and an oil change. They also scraped brake calipers to "check brakes" and had some decent debris and dirt in the wheel wells. I understand debris can cause the flappers in the capless gas inlet. No problems prior but we drove out with rough engine and then a few weeks later stalled at gas up first time. Wondering if the debris could have gotten into the gas fill area? Seems odd to have this only after going in for service but not before. Trust level gone but I don't know any good mechanics. We have 1 car and I need it not to stall on gas up. Also saw a video where someone said the seals on the flappers of the capless gas opening can erode and need to be maintained. They showed spraying compressed air to clean flapper area and then wd 40 or liquid silicone and using the funnel that comes with Ford Fusion to push in and out of gas opening 30 times to clean and recondition the seals. I have a p0496 small leak that I read can be from debris in a gas tank opening flapper seal. Have you heard of this and do you have any thoughts on it. Can doing that funnel thing cause any damage? Thanks.
dont go to stealerships!!!!!!!!!!
@@lightningfisher8177 I know. I have the worst feeling about going there bc Ford wants my car and have been very obvious about it. All they have to do is tell me they cannot fix it or it is unsafe to drive once they have it and I am stuck without my car that I love. I have seen reviews of this. But I don't know where else to take it and where there are good mechanics here in Central FL. I have heard there is a shortage of good mechanics and those who are good are being bid on so lots of repair places are doing low bids for their workers. Also I am still inside of warranty and don't want to void it by having service done and having Ford tell me bc of that my warranty is gone. Right now we have the gas neck dirt inlet cover and some people say it works to stop this stalling at gas up and the leak situation but I don't want to make it worse by using it without knowing everything about it first. I need someone with automotive knowledge to tell me what I should do as I want my working car back! It's a small leak and if just at the gas cap area I don't want to have every part replaced one at a time at the dealer and then the car to be kept by them. Sorry for the essay.
Thank you so much. You are awesome, very informative
I have a 05 Eddie bauer with a p0453 code what will fix that?
I have a 98 pathfinder and my car is experiencing some symptoms where I’ll step on the gas and it’ll shift into 1st and 2nd but it hit the rev limiter shifting into 3rd. I’ve replaced the evap solenoid due to one of the hoses having carbon deposit built it up in it. Should I then replace the vent solenoid after emptying out my charcoal canister?
Thanks pal--- very enlightening!
Glad it was helpful!
Good explanation
My s550 mustang 3.7 canister is likely bad due to age of 8 years old. And I been getting rich conditions and some lean conditions and the car would shake after getting gas as well.
Will this prevent my car from starting
Thank you.
You're welcome!
How about no CEL, no DTCs, no driving symptoms, but have a yellow light on the code reader and a flashing EVA that won’t reset. I’ve inspected the canister and all of the hose connections for leaks and removed and cleaned the foam filter inside the canister.
Would this be something that makes my car not turn on after getting gas any other day it turns on just fine, only after getting gas
Dear sir, I can fill up the car up but,about 1 hour it stalls out and I have to take a can of extra gas with me after I add the gasoline, it starts up just fine after it gets to the fuel lines can you help me with this question ❓
Hello Auto repairs, i am using the same Lexus RX300, 1999 model engine 1MZFE. the accident was made by swap/connecting the Vacuum Surge Tank pipe to the water outlet there just below it. The system was filled with water until the water comes out at The Charcoal Canister through the Air Drain Horse. We have tried to remove the water by sucking and blowing through the pipes and even put the new service kit since we found some plugs socked in water. but still the car wont start but cranks. what advice can you give sir
It seems like water made its way into the combustion chamber. Remove all spark plugs, remove water from the combustion chamber and next conduct a compression test. Hopefully the engine didn't hydrolock and caused mechanical damage.
Do you have to empty fuel tank in order to replace charcoal canister?
Nope. Just disconnect the pipes, unbolt the old one, refit new one. Easy as.😊