I stumbled on this video 5 years ago as my '05 avalanche was doing this exact problem. I did the cleaning once more 2 years ago so considering 2x in almost 6 years, I'll take the trade off any day until I decide otherwise. Great tip and tutorial 👍
The conector on top of evaporator can you actually squeeze to top or those little tips down n the hole clips drops down or you pull the bottom at same time you pushed or squeeze those prongs
Really good video on this. Very detailed and you added in other possible issues. I'm saving this one. Thanks a million. Been having this issue. Pumping $20 worth of fuel was taking me 10-15 minutes
Thx dude - you gave me a great overview for this job - point of note - 2004 Yukon XL Denali is a POS job as the canister is above the spare wheel, the prop shaft, the diff, etc - but got there in the end...... there is a really good video by a 'dude' that explains how to split the connectors (probably the worst part of the job).
Thank you! I cleaned out mine and used a shop vac to suck out that tank vent hose…it was full of charcoal pellets. First and last time to have to do that fix. No smog inspection is required where I live so all good. Thanks again because I am sure this would have been $800 plus these days for the dealership to “fix”.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I will take care of my truck this way, my mechanic wants 550 for the labor of replacing the filter and solenoid.
Ruben Salais well do the work your self , I don't mean that in a bad way I just saying do it your self a save your self $550.00 , the mechanic who tested my 2005 Chevy Silverado 4x4 1500 told me what the part I needed and he said it would be $649.00 for labor plus the part ! I got the part for $32.96 and I did it my self and saved me the cost of the labor , just think about it , you can save your self a ton of cash
Here is another idea, buy a new canister and test disconnected solenoid for ohms. If none show on meter, replace solenoid. This is a hack and so is this guy.
@@rubensalais1502 No problem, i just hate misinformation like this. Also, so you know, the "hard to get off" fuel clip, yea you just push it in and pull line off with ease. Hope i helped
Great presentation and it really works. I fixed my gmc exactly as you showed in your video. The truck is running great and at the pump the only click I hear is when the tank is full. Thanks alot.
@mohamedhosini2103 yes it is working great. I have filled the tank several times with ease and the error code disappeared day one and has not returned.
Great video! Finally someone shows how to remove the lines. But seriously, 3 lines, 3 different clip designs holding them on! Thanks sooooo much Chevy engineers!
FROM CHICAGO THANK YOU THANK YOU SO MUCH I HAVE A 2003 NISSAN PHATFINER WE CHANGED FULL PUMP COUSE IT WASN'T WORKING BUT AFTER WE CHANGED SERVISE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP SO IM GOING TO WASH UP THAT BLOCK BOX
I am disabled and it's heard for me to work on car or trucks like I use to , I use to restored Antique cars when I was younger but now that I have had Major back surgery that make me Worse it's very painful to work on cars but I do it Because I can't Afford to pay a mechanic , what took me two hours to do now , it takes me a day or more depending on what it is , my Neighbor will help me some times but he expect to be paid , I thought neighbor's and friends are supposed to do it out of the kindness of there heart , I know I have done that for my friends !! I helped my friends and I never asked for any money and if they offered I wouldn't take it that's the way my parents raised me , you don't charge friends and family
Hope you’re doing well Tom I’m sorry you haven’t had the best of friends or neighbors just know there are more of you and we know exactly what you mean people aren’t nice anymore but it’s important that those of us that are remain so
Remember that Rabbi Jesus healed all those lepers at once and only one thanked him. You are right though. People do not help one another nowadays like they used to. Everyone is out for themselves only.
Thanks for this video as Im about to deal with mine & have put up with the slow fill all Winter, & now since I have the flexible fuel line leaking (poor design as the supply & return lie on top of each other so of course the supply is the one with the hole & not the return line, its up near the front cross member so I recommend checking yours and securing it "05 Yukon XL). You gotta love engineers as they use three different connections on the same device, at least they are easy enough to access.
I work for a company that makes canisters for GM, Ford and FCA. I can tell you that washing it out with water was probably a waste of time. The flow rate on those cans are typically 60-70 liters a minute. The fuel system that monitors the leak rate of the system and that monitors flow rate. Will cause a MIL light to come on if it falls below that flow rate or the total flow rate set by the manufacture after the canister is installed in the vehicle. When the company that I work for manufacturers these canisters. The charcoal(carbon) has to be dry in order to know that a canister is a good part based off the customer’s specifications for flow rate and leak rate. As a canister ages from my understanding. The charcoal(carbon) will eventually dissipate and or turn into dust. That is by design so that after 10-15 years you will need a new one. These canisters do have springs with retainers and felt in them to hold the charcoal inside the can.
I, guess the charcoal is desintegrated in black dust, and people think is so dirty and clogged, and using water or air will blow out the dust, but probably the carbon has a function, if desintegrated, the Canister is not doing the job properly anymore and should be replaced at some point.
I agree that the activated carbon has a life time base on refueling cycles. As you fill it, it gets warmer or hot. This is an “endothermic” reaction, as the hydrocarbons are absorbed. During purge, the tank vent valve is open, which defaults to open. This is when the problem happens. It is drawing in outside air. If you are a farmer in Iowa or live down a gravel road, the dust that’s kicked up goes thru the tank valve, thru the canister, around the activate carbon. Magic allows the hydrocarbons to release into the air with less or no gas in, then into the engine and burned. The PCM closes of the tank valve and if dirty, it leaks. Fails twice you get small leak code. Tank valve have all shapes but adding a filter, moving with a good sealed hose, to a dust free location will help. What sucks is the trend is to make the canister & valves all 1 part. Near Dubuque, IA is a shop who does wash them out. However, he caps them off and places into a vacuum. This boils off the water at room temps. He has had decent success using the shop truck as $340 for a new canister was needed. He also tried a white sock over valve for filter. I am sure that some small engines use a round air filter inside a plastic canister. This would work great if hoses to the vent valve fit. “Hey, Get off my Lawn” Hot/cold cycle would more than likely break down activated carbon due to a little expansion & contraction, turn to dust and travel up purge line to valve, into engine. That’s going to leave a mark!! ;(
Just did this procedure on my 05 Envoy with a 5.3, I figured if its bad and needs replacing, why not give it a try. No more hard fill, or "P0446 EVAP Performance" code. The crap that came out was really nasty. Thanks a bunch!
I did try it same way as you explained and it worked l was able to put gas in the tank fine any way good video and explained video thanks good video l never put any comments but did good again thanks for good videos
I'm a mechanic and GM is always the worst with high mileage either the canister of the dump valve down under or up top or both thanks for the video Never clean one just change them LOL
For my case, at a discount it's 150$ for a new canister. I'd rather spend .15¢ on water and try this lol sucks sometimes that the more frequent items to fail tend to be the more costly.
I'd just buy a new canister, but really good video otherwise! I'm in the process of removing my tank to upgrade the fuel pumps, so I needed a visual for removing the hose connections and this video did the trick! Thanks for saving me time and possibly breaking something out of frustration! Keep up the good work!
It does not help with the flow rate. I am currently having this pump shut off problem and I started the engine so I could read the gas gauge. The pump still kept shutting off.
Awsome video your the first one ive seen that had the balls to say clean check and inspect instead of pull swap and call it good this could also help u determine if the valve is stuck before dumping alot of money in parts u dont need
you're right squirting the water on the clips, dust fills the clips and the tabs wont compress, so squirt water, wait 30 seconds for the dirt to soften then blow the mud out with compressed air (works on dirty electrical connectors too) So now you've cleaned the canister but never cleaned the vent valve OR the really dirty foam filter. These were actually the problem. I think the 07 up vent valves were sealed, but the electric solenoid on the valve comes off so it could be flushed out too. The older ones had a removable lid to remove and a foam filter to clean. While you're at it relocate that hose and foam filter by the filler neck up to the engine compartment too. This is a major problem for all vehicles driven on gravel roads, something that even 4x4 trucks weren't designed to do.
Yeah on another truck I relocated the vent to the front of radiator. Working real good no issues anymore. I actually did a video of it too ua-cam.com/video/ASCLntCU0jQ/v-deo.html
Hello zims. I did this ,this past sunday. And it saved me the headache to had to buy a new charcoal can.and i also checked the filter and everything was clean and the tips you gave us here what to look for. Was spot on. I have a chevy s10 2002 and the set up its very very similar to this . The hose clippings are a little better on mine then this clipping on this one on the video.i also did the water wash and then preassure clean it. So at least ! I know isnot the charcoal can or the filter valve overall this helpped me alot ! Not yo mention buying part i dont need and thenhaving to return it. Thanks a million !!!!!👍👍👌👏👏👏👏👏
I work for an automotive company in Alabama and I just so happen to make canisters and i'm telling you that you would never put water in it you can use like 45 Psi air pressure. But for the part to work correctly it must have a required amount of carbon along with the foam pads. We get an empty canister where pads are stitched along with a long filter which is rolled with foam also then it's put 8nto a machine that puts exactly the right amount of carbon for each space then more foam pads are put on top to trap the carbon then a bottom plate with springs for each space that has carbon is put into a heat welder that presses it all down to trap the carbon.. Duh! When I take it out the welder I shake the canister if you hear any rattling which is caused by either a missing pad or not enough carbon it means the part is no good. In other words it needs all its carbon my advice is just replace with a new one or eventually you will be in trouble.. It's made one way and that's the correct and only way for it to help your car keep it's peak performance. Hope it helps Sincerely a welder in canisters at leehan America inc.
Thanks for the vid! If anything, most of the people commenting on this are not mechanics. I personally bought a new cannister, but I appreciate the step by step and description. Keep up the good work. However, I do have a question... should/can I blow out any of the hoses running to the cannister? New subscriber here.
I'm sure you can but make sure none of the hoses are attached and make sure that if you are blowing it through a line with a valve, it does not break anything.. just be careful.
Hi there!! really good content! thanks for sharing Mine is allowing gasoline smell to scape when filling up the tank. Washing it as you did will make any good in my case? It's not clogged only its charcoal is saturated I think.
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
NAPA sells lock tabs fittings orings i just did mine on GM fuel pump line. Hint :dont fill fuel tank while engine is running and dont top off tank and try to keep putting gas in after pump nozzle clicks off.
I watched the video and I appreciate it. My problem isn't the dirt in the canister but rather the tiny pellets in it. Some how and for some reason theses pellets have gotten out of the canister and have clogged the hose that goes to gas tank. I ran a wire coat hanger up it and its completely clogged with these pellets. Should I be worried about these pellets getting into my gas tank? How do I get this hose unclogged? Thanks.
You will have to replace the unit! The screen failed that holds the carbon back! If it gets to the gas tank it will not harm anything other than possibly clog the fuel filter. As for the hose maybe use some low psi compressed air! Or replace the line
My carbon beads made it all the way up to my purge valve clogging it up making my 2007 tahoe run chopy . I just changed it all, the purge valve, vent valve, and canister. Amazon has it all for cheap
@@christopheranthony5181 it's not possible for the beads to make it all the way to the purge valve, which is located next to the engine, because the fuel filter will not allow the beads to pass by the fuel filter. Perhaps you mean that the beads made it to the vent valve?
I believe, maybe, the small horseshoe clip connector, which you broke the clip on, is actually supposed to be pressed IN, NOT removed ? The inward pressure to allow pull off the line straight off ?
My Escalade has 240,000 and was getting the gas fill cut-off crap. Replaced the vent solenoid, didn't help 🤬so I'll be doing this canister cleanout next. 👍 Thanks.
William Burroughs must be in Sioux City where truck loads of activated carbon is sent. Yes, bad location for the fuel tanks vent valve, but you need to open it up for cleaning. I got 3 table spoons of dirt out of one. Many shops replace them because they don’t come apart and are normally open with no power. So fuel vapors/air passes thru the canister and heats up due to an exothermic reaction. The activated carbon inside is the size of sand, but with thousands of tiny holes. It attracts the hydrocarbon and hold it until the conditions are right, the PCM opens the purge valve and sucks the fumes in. Fuel vapors burn and you paid for them. It creates an endothermic reaction, cooling. The tanks vent is wrapped loosely in those odd white tube socks to create an external filter before damaging the valve. The carbon has felt, plus a plastic screen that’s reinforced pushing all to one end to keep from breaking. The black was carbon, while the brown was dirt. If you can hear particles inside during shaking, replace it. It depends, but on the hose end, will suck into the purge valve, then into the intake and combustion chambers. BAD at this point, but clean the purge line out. Engineers don’t get out of their “Cube Farms” where they live. They think everyone has internet and all roads are paved! Wrong! The tank valve closes when commanded by time of driving. So when the PCM’s clock says 8 hours have passed, closed the tank valve, open the purge, watch the tank sensors signal in inches of water. Once it hits 8 inches of H2O, it closes and seals the tank. As long as the level of fuel is between 80% of full, and 20% of empty. This is the criteria for testing the EVAP system. So, tank valve can’t seal because it’s dirty, it will degrade vacuum to 12 inches of H2O in 2 minutes, it’s a small leak and since it’s a type “A” code, due to run-a-way hydrocarbons (Going Straight to California / the Land of Fruits & Nuts), and they CEL comes on the dash, behind the black tape. Simple aaah? ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired from killing “Snail-Darters” & “Delta-Smelt Fish Bait”
Unfortunately those clips come from 3 different companies to fit the hose/fitting size. This way, they don’t have to pay thousands in re-tooling cost to make each one the same.....and easy to remove. Hell, they don’t even solder 3 or more wires in the harness anymore since they found out that induction welding (Controlled Melting) or joining wires can be done. Cheaper, quicker and no soldering. Remember, wiring harnesses are spread out on a painted sheet of plywood, with nails, clips and arrows with words for special notes and colors. All done by hand. Each are cut, insulation stripped, terminals crimped, inserted into plastic connects. Then it’s taken to a test board, where everything is plugged in, and voltage, correct current or amperage is drawn to the other side with all lights. If one fails, a team figures out why and fixes it. Once passed, then the harness it tapped, covered with tubing or rubber, mounting clips, molded harness channels, then the P/N, day, plant and shift indicator is taped on in two locations. The harness is the 6th most expensive product on the vehicle. You all have a good day now!
@@miguelcastaneda7236 I had a neighbor who was scared to death of air bags. His car had two at best. I told him that a nylon skin burn from an air was not a bad as tasting a glass windshield! I tried to explain that seat belts come first, then if the impact was the same as hitting a solid brick wall at 30 MPH, he may change his mind. The story of how Sammy Davis Jr. lost an eye was driving a 59 Cadillac in Vegas and the car in front of him stopped completely. He hit them and the metal horn button shaped like the nose of an airplane hit his eye. He was not wearing a seatbelt. I think seat belts were required in 1966 as pickup trucks was July of 1970. The largest tail fins came on the 1960 Cadillac, while the only Corvette produced with a spilt rear window was 1963. Very rare to find one as management said no, to hard to see out the back using the mirror! Stay safe in 2023, which still sounds strange to say!
@@TOOLMAN4hvac A job listing January 13th at American Autowire had a warehouse tech position and listed a requirement for "Resistance Welding of Wires" as in auto body, spot welding is called "Resistance Welding" so if the heat can be controlled, you can spot weld 3+ wires together to connect some ground circuits. Mine was in the factory harness of an 03 truck, but GM uses "SPXXX" or splice packs follow by 3 numbers to provide I.D. an location. C= connector, G= ground and the front bumper to firewall is area 100, "A" pillar is "200", under the dash & front seats is "300" and so on. Any splice in the harness wether mechanical or welded is within 13" Left or Right of an indicated landmark, say the center console. It is simply location guide to find a connector, ground, splice or splice pack that contains one wire to ground, all the other wires need ground, so the removable part of a splice pack is plastic but contains a once piece metal stamped "Comb" looking connector. It is used on serial data and grounds. But not CAN (GM-LAN) because they are separate and twisted 9 times per foot to offset any nearby RFI.
Thanks for the presentation. My Check engine light popped up recently.When I ran a scan on my car-Toyota Corolla 2006 model, it returned these codesP2401,P2419,P043F,P043E.It has stalled more than once on the road due to fuel pump failure.I have changed the fuel pumps .Kindly advise me on the way forward.Do I need to wash the Charcoal Canister or replace it?
Wouldn't flushing it with water also flush the charcoal out? Also, I believe there are fabric filters in the bottom of that canister...wouldn't they would absorb the water and then feed it back to the engine??
I’m sure if the filter fabric was bad it would leak beads and the small amount of moisture left would eventually evaporate during a regen and such a small amount won’t hurt anything
You could but probably get dirt in gas tank, that directly connects to it and will always smell gas in you park in garage. Probably not a good idea. If you going to do that just cut canister apart and through carbon out.
If it was an Emergency and you are running low in gas and can't fill the tank, can the canister be bypassed temporarily? Could of sworn I once read that one of the lines can be removed from the canister and this would allow you to fill your tank up with gas.
Is it necessary to take a part the canister itself and replace the carbon charcoal and filters inside? I would buy a new one but the part is literally impossible to find for my vehicle. I’ve called ten places and they’ve all said I’m out of luck. Praying this saves the day!
@@HighOctane101 Okay sweet. Thanks for taking the time to respond. The charcoal is all in my lines so if I blow it all out of my lines, would there still be any left in the canister or would I need to rebuild the canister? The part for it doesn’t exist anymore since it’s an older van.
@@AbbyLane-x1t if the carbon is leaking out then the screen holding it back. only thing without the carbon is you may smell gas when filling because normally the carbon absorbs the fumes. so if that is not a big deal to you then you should be good. expecially if you cant get a new one.
I had the same problem but found my canister was not plugged. The little carbon BBs inside the canister had gone down the tank vent tube and plugged it up. I had to vacuum the BBs out of the tube and the problem is now solved.
So, if you take it off, charcoal pellets are not supposed to fall out? I took one out of a chevy suburban and a ton of pellets immediately started falling out. Does that indicate that the canister is bad?
While it seems like this would work, I would be reluctant to call it a "fix". It is more like a way to defeat that pesky evap canister by hosing out the charcoal and the little bit of dust that got in with the charcoal that keeps my check engine light on all the time. I am totally fine with defeating this system if that is what one wants to do. As a matter of fact, I may actually do this because I don't have a choice but to drive in dusty conditions all the time anyway. Pretty decent video!
How would you be sure though, if the Check Engine light is on due to a congested EVAP canister and not something else, which could turn out to be lethal to your engine?
@@DobruchT I actually did this. The hard part was figuring out the hose connectors and how they release. I hosed it out with water and blew it out with compressed air the best I could. It worked. I drove for over a year maybe 2 before the problem came back. So it is temporary but it last long enough for it to be worth it. I will do it again in the spring when it gets warmer. I dont have a garage. As for the engine light, I cleared mine. When the problem came back it gave the same code. Not that you need one. The tell tale is the difficulting fueling the truck. You can keep clearing the code all the time and monitoring it if you are worried about a different problem. This code wont come in immediately.
@@danclay8229 You clear check lights and now you need to drive at least 100 miles to have the computer have EVAP data. Without that 100 miles worth of data to the computer you don't get a new inspection sticker because the EVAP has to pass to get one. So now you are driving without an inspection sticker illegally right? There is no guarantee your check light will stay off to pass inspection if the computer doesn't see the correct specs.
@@Adirondacks4me Thanks for your interest. I have actually done this twice now. My observation is that washing out and blowing out the EVAP canister cleans out the dust but I didn't notice charcoal coming out. It lasted more than a couple years. I dont remember exactly. Regardless I drove 10s of thousands of miles since the first rinse with no CEL. The truck EVAP system appears to be working. My state doesn't require inspection stickers so I havent had to do that. I do believe it would pass though. I actually still have it. It has become hard to replace in the post pandemic market. It is high milelage now.
See you confirmed what I always asked. Why not run to the air filter or have some kind of air filter box underneath. That way you can just change the air filter or clean it. Now I know what I'm fixing to do to fix mine.
My check engine light is on on my 2019 Silverado. Changed evap solenoid and purge valve. Light is still on. Do you think this is the problem? Great video. Thanks.
When you have a flooded charcoal canister, is the gas smell evident when the engine is off or does it happen only when the car is running or in idle? I am suspecting a faulty charcoal canister because of overfilling the gas tank once. I overfilled it but not to the point the gas was overflowing. I smell gas when I first start the car but not after a while. I don't smell gas when the the engine is off. If the problem is actually a carbon canister flooded with gasoline, do you think taking out the canister and let the gasoline evaporate for a day or so fix the issue? I have read that overfilling the gas tank can flood the canister and produce problems.
I can't get my canister off my 2002 Failblazer!! Living in WI, attempting to fill in -30°, and having it shut off every 10 seconds isn't fun. I had a feeling this was the problem; attempted to take it off the bracket/holder to clean it out and it's so rusty I can't get it off! The hoses weren't too bad to remove. Do you think I can start it on fire?? Lmfao! Any advice would be GREAT!!
The top vent line w/ the white horseshoe clip, you don't pull it out. You push it in to release it. Good vid otherwise. Resorting to flushing w/ water worked for me too. Shop air alone just wasn't enough. Maybe drill a hole at the lowest part and plug it w/ a screw after ~ a week.
Some people's comment are bad but they are the ones that don't like to take chances but I'm going to try it too tomorrow sense I got the gas tank out for the fuel pump and it was given me some issues filling up some times. If it worked for some people I'm definitely trying it too. 👍
After blowing it out I'd fill the canister with some 91% or better Isopropyl Alcohol. It will help prevent that remaining water from pooling at the very bottom of your tank by dispersing something like 50% of the same volume of water. Iso-Heet would be perfect. Add maybe 12 ounces, seal the ports and give the canister a whole bunch of rolls and shakes, make sure its fully dispersed. open the ports back up. dump it out. install.
Your viewers comment about using water is totally correct. Theyre designed w a shelf life basically so do yourself a big plus. Buy new. They dont cost $500. Not even $300 or $200 Dorman brand.
Man...the clip you broke on the third hose ....I think you did it the wrong way...you just needed to press the clip down and pull the hose out...Am I right?
I think you are right. A similar white clip is on the evap purge solenoid on the top of the engine. With thumb pressure on side of clip, it will release its grip. There's a sweet spot, you don't need the screwdrivers.
Any reason why you decided to push water and air through it, rather than just air? Any clogging issues after the fact? Great video, thanks for posting!
Your video was very helpful I recently bought a 2015 gmc sierra. With over 130 thousand miles. Had it about 3 weeks and the engine light came on. Long story short, the evap solenoid and the purge valve have been changed. Still the light is on. Looked as if the previous owner lived on a dirt road. Also the tank is tough to fill Cuz it keeps shutting the pump off. Sounds as if this might be the issue. Thank you
Taking Apart Charcoal Canister And Vent Relocation On 2012 Chevy Silverado Truck ua-cam.com/video/ASCLntCU0jQ/v-deo.html
Is there a reason you did this instead of running the water through then?
Just wanted to see what is was like inside and ran vent line so it would not clog again
Thanks bro
Really? We can wash the canister? Awesome! Should we wait for it get completely dried up before reinstall it back?
I stumbled on this video 5 years ago as my '05 avalanche was doing this exact problem. I did the cleaning once more 2 years ago so considering 2x in almost 6 years, I'll take the trade off any day until I decide otherwise. Great tip and tutorial 👍
Thanks
@TreyAydelette-qw4ctsame dude
The conector on top of evaporator can you actually squeeze to top or those little tips down n the hole clips drops down or you pull the bottom at same time you pushed or squeeze those prongs
I did this last night and it worked like a charm it took me less than an hour. Thank you sir 👍🏽
Good deal
did you cleaned the same way and why was the reason
so did it throw a code ? Is this why you had to clean yours? Also if so did ur check engine light go out ?
how long fid this work for you flushing out the cannister
I was going to have to buy a new one anyway so I figured why not give it a try. It worked!! Saved me $80, thanks man
Did it hold up?
Really good video on this. Very detailed and you added in other possible issues. I'm saving this one. Thanks a million. Been having this issue. Pumping $20 worth of fuel was taking me 10-15 minutes
Damn..
did you have a check engine light bc of the canisters being plugged up ? then did you clear it then it went away ?
@@KasenKinzyyour check engine should be cleared with a scan tool after the issue has been addressed
Thx dude - you gave me a great overview for this job - point of note - 2004 Yukon XL Denali is a POS job as the canister is above the spare wheel, the prop shaft, the diff, etc - but got there in the end...... there is a really good video by a 'dude' that explains how to split the connectors (probably the worst part of the job).
The first video i've seen showing how to get the hoses off. Thank you.
The top hose broke because he should have pressed the clip in them pulled the house off. He tried to pry it down which broke it
a-1 auto shows you exactly this process but just replacing the canister instead of cleaning it
Those hoses were a pain in the ass, and I'm still having a fuel issue
You made it look real simple and you can rejuvenate the old one great video thanks
Thanks
Thank you! I cleaned out mine and used a shop vac to suck out that tank vent hose…it was full of charcoal pellets. First and last time to have to do that fix. No smog inspection is required where I live so all good. Thanks again because I am sure this would have been $800 plus these days for the dealership to “fix”.
Yeah probably
You used a shop vac?? Were you concerned about the gas vapors ? Did it clean the hose out? @@HighOctane101
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I will take care of my truck this way, my mechanic wants 550 for the labor of replacing the filter and solenoid.
Ruben Salais well do the work your self , I don't mean that in a bad way I just saying do it your self a save your self $550.00 , the mechanic who tested my 2005 Chevy Silverado 4x4 1500 told me what the part I needed and he said it would be $649.00 for labor plus the part ! I got the part for $32.96 and I did it my self and saved me the cost of the labor , just think about it , you can save your self a ton of cash
Here is another idea, buy a new canister and test disconnected solenoid for ohms. If none show on meter, replace solenoid. This is a hack and so is this guy.
@@hshsgjakanss I going to try that since my work truck is also started with the same problem, thanks for the tip
@@rubensalais1502 No problem, i just hate misinformation like this. Also, so you know, the "hard to get off" fuel clip, yea you just push it in and pull line off with ease. Hope i helped
@@hshsgjakanss thanks, I will do that this weekend
YO MY MAN HOW DARE YOU DO THIS? MAKING A VIDEO OF SUCH QUALITY THANK YOU VERY HELPFUL.
You are welcome 👍
Great presentation and it really works. I fixed my gmc exactly as you showed in your video. The truck is running great and at the pump the only click I hear is when the tank is full. Thanks alot.
Thank You glad it worked for you. I know the pain of trying to fill a tank for 30 minutes and still never get it full
Is it still working fine?
@mohamedhosini2103 yes it is working great. I have filled the tank several times with ease and the error code disappeared day one and has not returned.
After 60k miles and have to do it again, im happy thank you this saved me parts and labor. 🎉❤
Hope all goes well, thanks
Great video! Finally someone shows how to remove the lines. But seriously, 3 lines, 3 different clip designs holding them on! Thanks sooooo much Chevy engineers!
Yep they try to make it as intimidating as they can I think
😂 they’re RETARDS!
Harder to mix them up that way?
I mangled my clips 😂😂😂 wish me the best
The reason the clips are different is because they can only go on the one that it fits . Impossible to hook it up wrong. .
I have been chasing a slow fill issue for a while now, your video fixed my issue.
Nice
The explanation on removing the hoses was very helpful, thanks!
FROM CHICAGO THANK YOU THANK YOU SO MUCH I HAVE A 2003 NISSAN PHATFINER WE CHANGED FULL PUMP COUSE IT WASN'T WORKING BUT AFTER WE CHANGED SERVISE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP SO IM GOING TO WASH UP THAT BLOCK BOX
I am disabled and it's heard for me to work on car or trucks like I use to , I use to restored Antique cars when I was younger but now that I have had Major back surgery that make me Worse it's very painful to work on cars but I do it Because I can't Afford to pay a mechanic , what took me two hours to do now , it takes me a day or more depending on what it is , my Neighbor will help me some times but he expect to be paid , I thought neighbor's and friends are supposed to do it out of the kindness of there heart , I know I have done that for my friends !! I helped my friends and I never asked for any money and if they offered I wouldn't take it that's the way my parents raised me , you don't charge friends and family
Hope you’re doing well Tom I’m sorry you haven’t had the best of friends or neighbors just know there are more of you and we know exactly what you mean people aren’t nice anymore but it’s important that those of us that are remain so
Remember that Rabbi Jesus healed all those lepers at once and only one thanked him. You are right though. People do not help one another nowadays like they used to. Everyone is out for themselves only.
I agree
I have the same issues as you do. I ❤️ doing my own work. I know that it's done right. It took me all day just to change the plugs and wires.
Thanks for this video as Im about to deal with mine & have put up with the slow fill all Winter, & now since I have the flexible fuel line leaking (poor design as the supply & return lie on top of each other so of course the supply is the one with the hole & not the return line, its up near the front cross member so I recommend checking yours and securing it "05 Yukon XL). You gotta love engineers as they use three different connections on the same device, at least they are easy enough to access.
Never have done this to any of my vehicles but did on a freinds 3500 five yrs ago. No issues as of yet.👍🏼
The clip that you mangled just pushes in on flat side towards the barb side, then you don't destroy the clip
EXACTLY! So dang hard to watch other guys explain it like their way is the right way and then insult the engineers while they’re at it. *cringe
lol exactly
I found how to remove it like you say after I already destroyed mine. Have a kit of an assortment of clips coming from amazon for $10.00
I work for a company that makes canisters for GM, Ford and FCA. I can tell you that washing it out with water was probably a waste of time. The flow rate on those cans are typically 60-70 liters a minute. The fuel system that monitors the leak rate of the system and that monitors flow rate. Will cause a MIL light to come on if it falls below that flow rate or the total flow rate set by the manufacture after the canister is installed in the vehicle. When the company that I work for manufacturers these canisters. The charcoal(carbon) has to be dry in order to know that a canister is a good part based off the customer’s specifications for flow rate and leak rate. As a canister ages from my understanding. The charcoal(carbon) will eventually dissipate and or turn into dust. That is by design so that after 10-15 years you will need a new one. These canisters do have springs with retainers and felt in them to hold the charcoal inside the can.
I, guess the charcoal is desintegrated in black dust, and people think is so dirty and clogged, and using water or air will blow out the dust, but probably the carbon has a function, if desintegrated, the Canister is not doing the job properly anymore and should be replaced at some point.
I agree that the activated carbon has a life time base on refueling cycles. As you fill it, it gets warmer or hot. This is an “endothermic” reaction, as the hydrocarbons are absorbed. During purge, the tank vent valve is open, which defaults to open. This is when the problem happens. It is drawing in outside air. If you are a farmer in Iowa or live down a gravel road, the dust that’s kicked up goes thru the tank valve, thru the canister, around the activate carbon. Magic allows the hydrocarbons to release into the air with less or no gas in, then into the engine and burned. The PCM closes of the tank valve and if dirty, it leaks. Fails twice you get small leak code.
Tank valve have all shapes but adding a filter, moving with a good sealed hose, to a dust free location will help.
What sucks is the trend is to make the canister & valves all 1 part.
Near Dubuque, IA is a shop who does wash them out. However, he caps them off and places into a vacuum. This boils off the water at room temps. He has had decent success using the shop truck as $340 for a new canister was needed. He also tried a white sock over valve for filter. I am sure that some small engines use a round air filter inside a plastic canister. This would work great if hoses to the vent valve fit.
“Hey, Get off my Lawn”
Hot/cold cycle would more than likely break down activated carbon due to a little expansion & contraction, turn to dust and travel up purge line to valve, into engine. That’s going to leave a mark!! ;(
Your right, as a 40 year GM master tech, you are told this stuff as you progress through your training.
If i have rust in the solenoid is the canister bad or filler neck? Replaced soenoid and still have problem.
Yes I do agree with you as a mechanic. But these guys are just doing cheap fixes so they can fill there tank up faster. Lol
Just did this procedure on my 05 Envoy with a 5.3, I figured if its bad and needs replacing, why not give it a try. No more hard fill, or "P0446 EVAP Performance" code. The crap that came out was really nasty. Thanks a bunch!
I did try it same way as you explained and it worked l was able to put gas in the tank fine any way good video and explained video thanks good video l never put any comments but did good again thanks for good videos
I just checked on line for a new canister. $100 or more. Definitely worth my time trying to clean the old one out.
I'm a mechanic and GM is always the worst with high mileage either the canister of the dump valve down under or up top or both thanks for the video Never clean one just change them LOL
For my case, at a discount it's 150$ for a new canister. I'd rather spend .15¢ on water and try this lol sucks sometimes that the more frequent items to fail tend to be the more costly.
I will be doing this tomorrow rather spending 100s on a new one ! Thanks for the tips !
I'd just buy a new canister, but really good video otherwise! I'm in the process of removing my tank to upgrade the fuel pumps, so I needed a visual for removing the hose connections and this video did the trick! Thanks for saving me time and possibly breaking something out of frustration! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Rick
That last clip you should push in on the middle of it.that releases
Thank you.
great White - that's correct. Imagine the clip as the shape of a horseshoe. Push 180 degrees from the open side. U < push from the bottom.
Incredible production quality on this, at least the first 9 minutes, haven't finished it yet, but awesome video, thanks for sharing : )
It looked like the bottom of that canister would unsnap and could be removed. Though it is illegal, would leaving the engine running help flow rate?
Probably could but would lead to dust getting into engine when regeneration starts
It does not help with the flow rate. I am currently having this pump shut off problem and I started the engine so I could read the gas gauge. The pump still kept shutting off.
@@brianloftin9196 I had to Replace the Cannister and a valve/solenoid.
Awsome video your the first one ive seen that had the balls to say clean check and inspect instead of pull swap and call it good this could also help u determine if the valve is stuck before dumping alot of money in parts u dont need
Thank you so much for putting out this video! I thought I had no choice but to buy a new one for $250!
The van alone is barely worth that, haha
No problem, thanks
you're right squirting the water on the clips, dust fills the clips and the tabs wont compress, so squirt water, wait 30 seconds for the dirt to soften then blow the mud out with compressed air (works on dirty electrical connectors too) So now you've cleaned the canister but never cleaned the vent valve OR the really dirty foam filter. These were actually the problem. I think the 07 up vent valves were sealed, but the electric solenoid on the valve comes off so it could be flushed out too. The older ones had a removable lid to remove and a foam filter to clean. While you're at it relocate that hose and foam filter by the filler neck up to the engine compartment too. This is a major problem for all vehicles driven on gravel roads, something that even 4x4 trucks weren't designed to do.
Yeah on another truck I relocated the vent to the front of radiator. Working real good no issues anymore. I actually did a video of it too ua-cam.com/video/ASCLntCU0jQ/v-deo.html
Hello zims. I did this ,this past sunday. And it saved me the headache to had to buy a new charcoal can.and i also checked the filter and everything was clean and the tips you gave us here what to look for. Was spot on. I have a chevy s10 2002 and the set up its very very similar to this . The hose clippings are a little better on mine then this clipping on this one on the video.i also did the water wash and then preassure clean it. So at least ! I know isnot the charcoal can or the filter valve overall this helpped me alot ! Not yo mention buying part i dont need and thenhaving to return it. Thanks a million !!!!!👍👍👌👏👏👏👏👏
I work for an automotive company in Alabama and I just so happen to make canisters and i'm telling you that you would never put water in it you can use like 45 Psi air pressure. But for the part to work correctly it must have a required amount of carbon along with the foam pads. We get an empty canister where pads are stitched along with a long filter which is rolled with foam also then it's put 8nto a machine that puts exactly the right amount of carbon for each space then more foam pads are put on top to trap the carbon then a bottom plate with springs for each space that has carbon is put into a heat welder that presses it all down to trap the carbon.. Duh! When I take it out the welder I shake the canister if you hear any rattling which is caused by either a missing pad or not enough carbon it means the part is no good. In other words it needs all its carbon my advice is just replace with a new one or eventually you will be in trouble.. It's made one way and that's the correct and only way for it to help your car keep it's peak performance. Hope it helps
Sincerely a welder in canisters at leehan America inc.
Ty
You sir are creating a bogus product!
Thanks for the vid! If anything, most of the people commenting on this are not mechanics. I personally bought a new cannister, but I appreciate the step by step and description. Keep up the good work. However, I do have a question... should/can I blow out any of the hoses running to the cannister? New subscriber here.
Sir you have a wonderful question 👍
I'm sure you can but make sure none of the hoses are attached and make sure that if you are blowing it through a line with a valve, it does not break anything.. just be careful.
Hi there!! really good content! thanks for sharing
Mine is allowing gasoline smell to scape when filling up the tank. Washing it as you did will make any good in my case? It's not clogged only its charcoal is saturated I think.
I would say your purge valve is bad, so basically it is not letting the vapors go to engine when it should be purging (regeneration of carbon)
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Could be purge valve sticking
NAPA sells lock tabs fittings orings i just did mine on GM fuel pump line.
Hint :dont fill fuel tank while engine is running and dont top off tank and try to keep putting gas in after pump nozzle clicks off.
Very good point
I watched the video and I appreciate it. My problem isn't the dirt in the canister but rather the tiny pellets in it. Some how and for some reason theses pellets have gotten out of the canister and have clogged the hose that goes to gas tank. I ran a wire coat hanger up it and its completely clogged with these pellets. Should I be worried about these pellets getting into my gas tank? How do I get this hose unclogged? Thanks.
You will have to replace the unit! The screen failed that holds the carbon back! If it gets to the gas tank it will not harm anything other than possibly clog the fuel filter. As for the hose maybe use some low psi compressed air! Or replace the line
My carbon beads made it all the way up to my purge valve clogging it up making my 2007 tahoe run chopy . I just changed it all, the purge valve, vent valve, and canister. Amazon has it all for cheap
@@christopheranthony5181 it's not possible for the beads to make it all the way to the purge valve, which is located next to the engine, because the fuel filter will not allow the beads to pass by the fuel filter. Perhaps you mean that the beads made it to the vent valve?
I believe, maybe, the small horseshoe clip connector, which you broke the clip on, is actually supposed to be pressed IN, NOT removed ? The inward pressure to allow pull off the line straight off ?
You’d be correct.
My god were you live that truck its dusty now i see why that canister had so much dust. Good job man 👍🏼
Thanks
Thank you so much🙏🏼 for your free information brother 💪👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
God bless you 🙏🏼
My Escalade has 240,000 and was getting the gas fill cut-off crap. Replaced the vent solenoid, didn't help 🤬so I'll be doing this canister cleanout next. 👍 Thanks.
Almost bought a new one today. Thanks for the advice.
does the water left over after cleaning pose any risk of fuel system contamination ?
it will usually evaporate and go away on its own. I never had any problem with it.
i think its pretty clean.. no more charcoal.. it just canister....lol
LMAOOOO yeah its clean, all harmful vapors are not being filtered..
Will this work enough to clear engine light? Mines so clogged that can only pump a small trickle of gas or it kicks pump off
yes it can if that is what the code is for evap system
This solved the slow fill problem in my 2004 silverado 1500. Very helpful video. Thanks so much.
Still holding up?
Still works great 👍
Did you wash it out only? Or replaced the vent valve solenoid as well?
Did not replace valve just cleaned
What you truck did? Mines runs like no gas on the engine and shuts off or start shaking and rev down till motor goes off
Your voice is close enough to Norm McDonald that you could throw in a few jokes or impressions
William Burroughs must be in Sioux City where truck loads of activated carbon is sent. Yes, bad location for the fuel tanks vent valve, but you need to open it up for cleaning. I got 3 table spoons of dirt out of one. Many shops replace them because they don’t come apart and are normally open with no power. So fuel vapors/air passes thru the canister and heats up due to an exothermic reaction. The activated carbon inside is the size of sand, but with thousands of tiny holes. It attracts the hydrocarbon and hold it until the conditions are right, the PCM opens the purge valve and sucks the fumes in. Fuel vapors burn and you paid for them. It creates an endothermic reaction, cooling. The tanks vent is wrapped loosely in those odd white tube socks to create an external filter before damaging the valve. The carbon has felt, plus a plastic screen that’s reinforced pushing all to one end to keep from breaking. The black was carbon, while the brown was dirt. If you can hear particles inside during shaking, replace it. It depends, but on the hose end, will suck into the purge valve, then into the intake and combustion chambers. BAD at this point, but clean the purge line out. Engineers don’t get out of their “Cube Farms” where they live. They think everyone has internet and all roads are paved! Wrong! The tank valve closes when commanded by time of driving. So when the PCM’s clock says 8 hours have passed, closed the tank valve, open the purge, watch the tank sensors signal in inches of water. Once it hits 8 inches of H2O, it closes and seals the tank. As long as the level of fuel is between 80% of full, and 20% of empty. This is the criteria for testing the EVAP system. So, tank valve can’t seal because it’s dirty, it will degrade vacuum to 12 inches of H2O in 2 minutes, it’s a small leak and since it’s a type “A” code, due to run-a-way hydrocarbons (Going Straight to California / the Land of Fruits & Nuts), and they CEL comes on the dash, behind the black tape. Simple aaah?
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired from killing “Snail-Darters” & “Delta-Smelt Fish Bait”
Unfortunately those clips come from 3 different companies to fit the hose/fitting size. This way, they don’t have to pay thousands in re-tooling cost to make each one the same.....and easy to remove. Hell, they don’t even solder 3 or more wires in the harness anymore since they found out that induction welding (Controlled Melting) or joining wires can be done. Cheaper, quicker and no soldering. Remember, wiring harnesses are spread out on a painted sheet of plywood, with nails, clips and arrows with words for special notes and colors. All done by hand. Each are cut, insulation stripped, terminals crimped, inserted into plastic connects. Then it’s taken to a test board, where everything is plugged in, and voltage, correct current or amperage is drawn to the other side with all lights. If one fails, a team figures out why and fixes it. Once passed, then the harness it tapped, covered with tubing or rubber, mounting clips, molded harness channels, then the P/N, day, plant and shift indicator is taped on in two locations. The harness is the 6th most expensive product on the vehicle.
You all have a good day now!
hey thanks for explaniation...why am turning into the get off my lawn guy driving older ob1 or older vehicles
@@deankay4434thankyou, I wondered how a wiring harness, was manufactured.
@@miguelcastaneda7236 I had a neighbor who was scared to death of air bags. His car had two at best. I told him that a nylon skin burn from an air was not a bad as tasting a glass windshield! I tried to explain that seat belts come first, then if the impact was the same as hitting a solid brick wall at 30 MPH, he may change his mind. The story of how Sammy Davis Jr. lost an eye was driving a 59 Cadillac in Vegas and the car in front of him stopped completely. He hit them and the metal horn button shaped like the nose of an airplane hit his eye. He was not wearing a seatbelt. I think seat belts were required in 1966 as pickup trucks was July of 1970. The largest tail fins came on the 1960 Cadillac, while the only Corvette produced with a spilt rear window was 1963. Very rare to find one as management said no, to hard to see out the back using the mirror! Stay safe in 2023, which still sounds strange to say!
@@TOOLMAN4hvac A job listing January 13th at American Autowire had a warehouse tech position and listed a requirement for "Resistance Welding of Wires" as in auto body, spot welding is called "Resistance Welding" so if the heat can be controlled, you can spot weld 3+ wires together to connect some ground circuits. Mine was in the factory harness of an 03 truck, but GM uses "SPXXX" or splice packs follow by 3 numbers to provide I.D. an location. C= connector, G= ground and the front bumper to firewall is area 100, "A" pillar is "200", under the dash & front seats is "300" and so on. Any splice in the harness wether mechanical or welded is within 13" Left or Right of an indicated landmark, say the center console. It is simply location guide to find a connector, ground, splice or splice pack that contains one wire to ground, all the other wires need ground, so the removable part of a splice pack is plastic but contains a once piece metal stamped "Comb" looking connector. It is used on serial data and grounds. But not CAN (GM-LAN) because they are separate and twisted 9 times per foot to offset any nearby RFI.
Thanks for the presentation. My Check engine light popped up recently.When I ran a scan on my car-Toyota Corolla 2006 model, it returned these codesP2401,P2419,P043F,P043E.It has stalled more than once on the road due to fuel pump failure.I have changed the fuel pumps .Kindly advise me on the way forward.Do I need to wash the Charcoal Canister or replace it?
Wouldn't flushing it with water also flush the charcoal out? Also, I believe there are fabric filters in the bottom of that canister...wouldn't they would absorb the water and then feed it back to the engine??
I’m sure if the filter fabric was bad it would leak beads and the small amount of moisture left would eventually evaporate during a regen and such a small amount won’t hurt anything
Can the truck be driven without the bottom hose to the Evap cannister attached? and will it fill any faster
You could but probably get dirt in gas tank, that directly connects to it and will always smell gas in you park in garage. Probably not a good idea. If you going to do that just cut canister apart and through carbon out.
This worked for my 2007 Chevy express van. Thanks!
If it was an Emergency and you are running low in gas and can't fill the tank, can the canister be bypassed temporarily? Could of sworn I once read that one of the lines can be removed from the canister and this would allow you to fill your tank up with gas.
Yeah you could you will smell gas vapors would not park inside unless you put them back on
For ALL those that are like “water is gonna mess it up!” Let it dry over night or go buy a new one. That easy!!🤪
Is it necessary to take a part the canister itself and replace the carbon charcoal and filters inside?
I would buy a new one but the part is literally impossible to find for my vehicle. I’ve called ten places and they’ve all said I’m out of luck. Praying this saves the day!
@@AbbyLane-x1t you don’t have to take apart just blow it out or use water and then blow out again like in video
@@HighOctane101 Okay sweet. Thanks for taking the time to respond. The charcoal is all in my lines so if I blow it all out of my lines, would there still be any left in the canister or would I need to rebuild the canister? The part for it doesn’t exist anymore since it’s an older van.
@@AbbyLane-x1t if the carbon is leaking out then the screen holding it back. only thing without the carbon is you may smell gas when filling because normally the carbon absorbs the fumes. so if that is not a big deal to you then you should be good. expecially if you cant get a new one.
@@HighOctane101 thanks so much for your advice you rock dude!
Awesome video thanks brah saveded me some headaches and 💰 A+++
I had the same problem but found my canister was not plugged. The little carbon BBs inside the canister had gone down the tank vent tube and plugged it up. I had to vacuum the BBs out of the tube and the problem is now solved.
The little screen must have failed inside
Kinda like backwashing a sand filter pool pump. Lol.
So, if you take it off, charcoal pellets are not supposed to fall out? I took one out of a chevy suburban and a ton of pellets immediately started falling out. Does that indicate that the canister is bad?
The internal screen to hold pellets back failed. You may have to get new one.
Muy excelente firma de explicación y muchas gracias.
I tried it with air and it worked ok. It was definitely better than before but now I'm going to try with water. I have a 04 suburban. Thanks
How did it do?
While it seems like this would work, I would be reluctant to call it a "fix". It is more like a way to defeat that pesky evap canister by hosing out the charcoal and the little bit of dust that got in with the charcoal that keeps my check engine light on all the time. I am totally fine with defeating this system if that is what one wants to do. As a matter of fact, I may actually do this because I don't have a choice but to drive in dusty conditions all the time anyway. Pretty decent video!
How would you be sure though, if the Check Engine light is on due to a congested EVAP canister and not something else, which could turn out to be lethal to your engine?
@@DobruchT I actually did this. The hard part was figuring out the hose connectors and how they release. I hosed it out with water and blew it out with compressed air the best I could. It worked. I drove for over a year maybe 2 before the problem came back. So it is temporary but it last long enough for it to be worth it. I will do it again in the spring when it gets warmer. I dont have a garage. As for the engine light, I cleared mine. When the problem came back it gave the same code. Not that you need one. The tell tale is the difficulting fueling the truck. You can keep clearing the code all the time and monitoring it if you are worried about a different problem. This code wont come in immediately.
@@danclay8229 You clear check lights and now you need to drive at least 100 miles to have the computer have EVAP data. Without that 100 miles worth of data to the computer you don't get a new inspection sticker because the EVAP has to pass to get one. So now you are driving without an inspection sticker illegally right? There is no guarantee your check light will stay off to pass inspection if the computer doesn't see the correct specs.
@@Adirondacks4me Thanks for your interest. I have actually done this twice now. My observation is that washing out and blowing out the EVAP canister cleans out the dust but I didn't notice charcoal coming out. It lasted more than a couple years. I dont remember exactly. Regardless I drove 10s of thousands of miles since the first rinse with no CEL. The truck EVAP system appears to be working. My state doesn't require inspection stickers so I havent had to do that. I do believe it would pass though. I actually still have it. It has become hard to replace in the post pandemic market. It is high milelage now.
The three entrances can be washed only with water or it can also be washed with gasoline or some special liquid ??
It can be washed with whatever you have available, just have to dry it out and when it regens it will also dry out rest of way,
See you confirmed what I always asked. Why not run to the air filter or have some kind of air filter box underneath. That way you can just change the air filter or clean it. Now I know what I'm fixing to do to fix mine.
My check engine light is on on my 2019 Silverado. Changed evap solenoid and purge valve. Light is still on. Do you think this is the problem? Great video. Thanks.
Nice camera work genius
Fixed my filling issue, took about an hour vrs a a big bill, did not fix the engine light in dash tho.. Thanks for the video.
Disconnect battery and reset and try
I would suggest to set it out in the sun for a day to dry out or use a heat gun
Heat gun ????? Have u ever figured out that made of plastic 🤦
@@omaralvarado2920 ......maybe a simple hair dryer set on ''hot''.
When you have a flooded charcoal canister, is the gas smell evident when the engine is off or does it happen only when the car is running or in idle? I am suspecting a faulty charcoal canister because of overfilling the gas tank once. I overfilled it but not to the point the gas was overflowing. I smell gas when I first start the car but not after a while. I don't smell gas when the the engine is off.
If the problem is actually a carbon canister flooded with gasoline, do you think taking out the canister and let the gasoline evaporate for a day or so fix the issue?
I have read that overfilling the gas tank can flood the canister and produce problems.
Thanks bud I am gonna do this on my 2014 chevy z71 tomorrow. .it was really helpful...dam dirt
Did it work for you at all?
I can't get my canister off my 2002 Failblazer!! Living in WI, attempting to fill in -30°, and having it shut off every 10 seconds isn't fun. I had a feeling this was the problem; attempted to take it off the bracket/holder to clean it out and it's so rusty I can't get it off! The hoses weren't too bad to remove. Do you think I can start it on fire?? Lmfao! Any advice would be GREAT!!
If it is tough to get off, you may have to get it on a car lift to better access. Might have to cut the bolt off if it is too rusty.
The top vent line w/ the white horseshoe clip, you don't pull it out. You push it in to release it. Good vid otherwise. Resorting to flushing w/ water worked for me too. Shop air alone just wasn't enough. Maybe drill a hole at the lowest part and plug it w/ a screw after ~ a week.
Is your canister still working fine :)
@@mohamedhosini2103 It wasn't my vehicle and been a few years now. But was their regular go-to guy and no Evap complaints since the repair.
@mohamedhosini2103 yes it is
Thank you on taking off the clips instructions .
If you break any clips/Plastic tubing. Relax , 5/8 heater hose and $1 clamps
Good to know, thanks
I broke the tip of plastic tubing trying to pull the clip off so that’s great news good to know
Got the same problem with my 1999 Toyota Tacoma sr5 do you have a video on this just curious thanks
yes this has a caster so it could be your issue
Time saver thanks so much, great video!!
C Pau Thanks glad I could help
Some people's comment are bad but they are the ones that don't like to take chances but I'm going to try it too tomorrow sense I got the gas tank out for the fuel pump and it was given me some issues filling up some times. If it worked for some people I'm definitely trying it too. 👍
Thanks bud
Good day Do you remember if washing out was OK. Thanks
Yes worked great
@@HighOctane101 Good thanks
👍
After blowing it out I'd fill the canister with some 91% or better Isopropyl Alcohol. It will help prevent that remaining water from pooling at the very bottom of your tank by dispersing something like 50% of the same volume of water. Iso-Heet would be perfect. Add maybe 12 ounces, seal the ports and give the canister a whole bunch of rolls and shakes, make sure its fully dispersed. open the ports back up. dump it out. install.
That would work too
Fuel went in the charcoal canister do i Blow dry instead, water with charcoal, doesn't it dissolve?
No it will not
Thanks! I’ll get it while I’m doing the shocks.
Your viewers comment about using water is totally correct. Theyre designed w a shelf life basically so do yourself a big plus. Buy new. They dont cost $500. Not even $300 or $200 Dorman brand.
knock off brands now are pretty cheap, this is a trick if you don't want to spend the money though
Man...the clip you broke on the third hose ....I think you did it the wrong way...you just needed to press the clip down and pull the hose out...Am I right?
I think you are right. A similar white clip is on the evap purge solenoid on the top of the engine. With thumb pressure on side of clip, it will release its grip. There's a sweet spot, you don't need the screwdrivers.
Yes that right.
You’re very very very correct.
Yes
Any reason why you decided to push water and air through it, rather than just air? Any clogging issues after the fact? Great video, thanks for posting!
I just saw it in comments and decided to give it a try, probably better to use air first then water and then air to blow out. It still works
Uhh I think I just will buy a new unit, this method MIGHT! work BUT looks like the charcoal it self came out.
Your video was very helpful
I recently bought a 2015 gmc sierra. With over 130 thousand miles.
Had it about 3 weeks and the engine light came on.
Long story short, the evap solenoid and the purge valve have been changed.
Still the light is on.
Looked as if the previous owner lived on a dirt road.
Also the tank is tough to fill
Cuz it keeps shutting the pump off.
Sounds as if this might be the issue.
Thank you
I would then start with the canister
@@HighOctane101 thank you
Sounds like a plan
Wash the canister and destroy the clips
Lmao
Destroy everything. 😆
Do you know if this works with a canister full of charcoal beads?
Yes that is what Is in this one
hello every body i think its make damage to the canister sand by using water jet in order to clean it !!! true or false??
Do you think its right to cleane evap box with water or flowing air with shaking is enough
Yes I have been doing this in many vehicles with no problems
Just install a NEW one there only $150 with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. so if/when it fails again go get a new one under warranty.
I have a question would this cause my 04 5.3 suburban to waist more gas than normal when everything else is working fine
I would say something else is wrong if you don have the filling slow problem
Thanks for the very helpful video.
I hope you are kidding. This is about 96% misinformation.
But hey, if it works without spending the money on a new one... Lol
my son has n 05 avalanche with these same issues.....does it work flushing out the cannister with water....we cant put gas it splashes back out on us
Yes it works, just have to blow it out to get the rest of water out before put canister back on
Great video personally I appreciate it thanks for teaching us
DIDN'T TEACH YOU FUCK ALL!! YOU DON'T WET THE CHARCOAL TWIT BRAIN!!
Your caps are locked
@@mr.timjohnston546 stop being a charcoal Nazi
Can my canister filter for my 2004 Yukon that has a valve broke still be used...or do I need to replace it
If it is just the vent solenoid valve then just replace valve
Start with the filter behind the gas fill!