As a decorator back in the 80`s I used to have to prepare the panels in pub refurbs..After a lot of prep,the grainer wanted two coats of a buff colour or another colour called Bamboo all in eggshell finish.. After all my hard work,he would come along with a pot of scumble glaze a flogger,a small rubber and take all the glory. That said,I always watched him work in awe!
My first boss told me how as an apprentice he would have to prepare rooms ahead of his master painter boss! Who would often fly into a rage if the job was not prepared to his high specifications, and on top of that! he would get a hiding if said boss could'nt see his reflection on his polished hand tools. He would then also take all the glory for the job !😃
Best I have seen, and I have viewed many. I have used this technique many times & been very pleased with the results but I really appreciate the good descriptive technique here! Most realistic 😄
Absolutely amazing. I have watched a few others now and wasn't really happy with any of them, but yours is the bees knees. Thanks James. Brilliant Demo.
Very kind, thank you. There are a number of other finishes on my website www.scenicpainters.com in the video courses section, some free and some part of a pay to view course. I run courses in scenic painting from my studio in Gloucestershire UK.
Honestly, after viewing several of these type videos, guy, you got it right... I gotta thank you, because I know that if I go about it right, it will make my hardwood floors the envy... right...
Glad you liked the video. Did you mean that you were going to paint this effect on your floors? I'm not sure I'd go down that road as eventually it might start to wear off, even with a robust varnish.
Button polish is one of several types of shellac for me. Other types include garnet polish transparent polish white knotting and FEV One of my favourite group of materials
Awesome job! The brush tapping after the wood grain tool made all the difference! I had t seen anyone else do that and that’s exactly what was missing! It truly made a huge difference! Excellent job! Saving your video so I can come back to it when I’m ready.
Fantastic to watch a fellow tradesman do such amazing work.I’m teaching my apprentice to do this at the moment,unfortunately I fear this is sadly a dying art nowadays and collages don’t teach these skills anymore.Great video👍
This is actually a topic that must be learnt in colleges. Even though broken colour work is dying out it still has to be taught. Wood Graining and Marble effects are both required skills that are needed to pass a Level 2 Diploma in P&D.
Interesting point you make Kira,both my apprentices achieved there level 2 in January. Both apprentices were given marbling,rag rolling and other effects as topics in the curriculum,yet neither one of them even buffed a panel out ready for graining much less attempted any,nor was this topic even discussed.How do you explain why certification can be issued even though the student has never completed key elements that “as you say” should be covered in order to obtain a level 2 in P&D???
Hi Michael, The materials I've used here are all water based. I doubt they would last that long outside but you could adapt the method using oil based glazes, dyes and varnishes. It's not just the rain, but also humidity (as you said) and temperature variations would also affect a water based method. Hope this helps.
Hi James, your video has shown the best techniques and the most realistic light oak effect woodgraining I've ever seen, having seen you do this I plan to do my metal panelled garage door, I'll probably have to use different paint/stain with the weather in the UK.
Gaz Barham Thanks for your kind comments. Yes if it’s outside then everything changes materials-wise but the idea should be the same. Build in layers. Working in oil based paints means you can work more slowly. No drying time issues. Think of it in terms of a very good prime layer then the correct base coat. Then the graining layer. You could check out a company called radcliffe who used to make oil based graining glazes. Then a stain layer to add depth. Then a protective layer. Outdoor painting isn’t my area really but I would do a sample before doing the door and then leave it outside for a bit to see how it weathers our weather!
That's amazing. I'm thinking about re-creating a Rimu veneer panel below a picture rail in my home....restoring to a 1920s look and matching the existing panel in the hallway.. I would love to see your take on that finish.
This is the tutorial I've been looking for. Now I just need a chart to tell me what colors to mix and match for different species of wood. What I really want to do is walnut.
Glad you liked the tutorial. Walnut is a bit different, not created with combs and rockers but with brushes. I've not made a walnut tutorial so far but there are other woodgraining tutorials including mahogany on my teaching website. you can find your way from here. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
If you go to this page there is an info sheet under the video which should answer all materials questions. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html Cheers James
Is there anyway that I can achieve this result in a darker grey colour? Like a kind of dark ash colour? Thanks, your video is amazing and extremely helpful!
What an amazing video! Absolutely beautiful and realistic. Too bad the product list is not available, I searched the website and couldn't find it 😢 I want to make faux beams for a tiny house.
Yes ply is ok as a base as long as you prepare it well. The ply needs to be fine grained, hardwood not softwood ply and you must grain in the same direction as the grain. I would do a sample sheet on an off cut and test the result before you have a go at the table
That's marvelous! I've been interested in woodgraining for a long time and now I'm severely tempted to try my hand at a door that is currently grained but whoever did it didn't do a great job. The worst bit is that he grained over a chipping, lumpy coat of old paint! Besides, I'm not even sure what kind of timber he meant to imitate - looks quite random. From far away you get the faint impression of some kind of burl but up close it doesn't look like anything I recognise.
@@jamesrowse7134 Yes, any kind of paint job on that door (actually a tall set of double doors with three panels each) will require plenty of thorough prep work!
first video I've seen where some one had a flogger and even used it correctly just a little hint though, when using your graining tools if you will now and then act like you are nervous and vibrate you hand you will get a very real effect. I guess your a scenic artist in England? in Hollywood the wood graining is done by set painters scenic artists do backings. Great work
Thanks Robert. Yes its the same in the UK, for film work anyway. I mostly work in theatre where there is less of a division between the two groups. Sadly there is less scenic art being done in every industry these days but this week I'm painting cloths for a show coming to Broadway, really old fashioned scenic artwork, "Farinelli and the King"
I worked with a scenic artist years ago on a feature and they had him making silk screens a printing felt for gambling tables that would usually be done in the sign shop but like you said their is less work for scenic artist these days several times working in San Francisco I hired help from their scenic shop at the Opera house and they did set painting for me the sets at the opera house are quite large they took me on a tour
Note the direction in which the 'flogging' is done. Many videos show it being done in the opposite direction (moving towards the brush handle), which produces lateral lines all over the finish and looks terrible.
Tom Thank you! The Rosco paints mentioned are available in the states but I'm afraid I don't know about the rest. Find a good Scenic suppliers and they should have the rest. If not Flints Hire and Supply in london will have anything you can't find and I'm sure they will send stuff to you Cheers James
At the bottom of this page you'll find a pdf file with all the materials listed. Just click the download button. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
That's really cool! I want to do something like this but on a metal mail box using outdoor enamel paint (One Shot) however, I don't know if I could get that same "transparent" look being enamel paint is THICK.
OneShot is great paint. The chemistry has changed. The old OneShot contained lead. The newer version is lead free. Both versions can be reduced with paint thinner or if open time is a factor small amounts of kerosene will do the trick. Mr.Rowse in UK call it paraffin. We hope no one reading this becomes confused and seals jars of jam or jellies with kerosene in either country. OneShot as a glaze coat would need to be mixed with an exterior compatible alkyd polyurethane many times now called "Spar Varnish"
James, I’ve always been sort of a purist, however you have changed my mind. This looks completely realistic. I’m trying to make some exterior wood (soffits on my cabin) come back to natural wood look. Would this work for exterior? Because they are the soffits, they will not get wet aside from humidity.
In the 19th and early 20th century Europe that was considered an art form on its own and there were highly skilled professionals doing it. The main reason being that some fancy timber species aren't ideal for certain applications, e.g. doors, so a suitable species was used and then faux grained. Solid timber might also have more blemishes than a good graining job. It should work fine outdoors, provided you use the right materials. I'd probably use exterior grade paints and stains for the process and perhaps finish it with a layer of varnish. I'm just a DIYer too, mind you, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt!
Well that's a big tree! If it was panelled then no problem. A panelled wall is made up of lots of little but ta of wood so it becomes an exercise in masking and patience but a massive expanse of oak in one piece would look a bit odd in my book.
hey that's really cool and a great talent you have there. is there an automotive grade set of materials to do this, say I want to re woodgrain my station wagon?
Yes button polish (or button shellac) is the material most used to seal the surface when you are painting scenery for theatre, in the UK at least. I believe it's also available in the US and other places.
All water based paints. Check out the link below. At the bottom of the page is an info button. This should download a materials sheet www.courses.scenicpainters.com/resources/Downloads/Oak-Woodgrain.jpg
Hi Barry Thanks for that feedback. If you visit this page you can download an info sheet that should tell you what you need to know. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
No worries. Let me know if you'd like to take any of the courses on offer at the studio. This is just one of many paint effects I teach at Scenic Painters.
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html This page has the video embedded at the bottom of the page. Below that is a resources sheet with all the materials listed for you to download
Hi James! This was great to watch thank you for sharing. I'm working on a project and plan to do something like this on my kitchen cabinets. I went to the link you shared and unfortunately when I press the link for the info PDF it won't download but just refreshes the page. Would you be so kind as to share a working link or send over that doc. I'm really interested in what primer you used. Thank you in advanced.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for letting me know about this problem. I think its fixed now so please go to this page www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html and click the DATA SHEET button under the video. As for primers it will depend on your substrate. in this video I worked on raw MDF and it was not done with kitchen use in mind. I think I'd go for something more substantial as a base, maybe one of the Zinzer primers to start with, then on with an emulsion base etc. Hope this helps.
? can you tell us where to get the grinding "comb" tool with teeth that go from wide to narrow? I've found several with teeth all one size-- what you are using seems a lot better to me.
I have a course online using Thinkific as a teaching platform. The wood Course has a number of other finishes including mahogany, stained parquet, weathered wood and a raised grain old oak. You can find it here along with a course on metal finishes and another on tools and materials. Courses come with a number of pdf resources as well as discussion boards www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
@@jasonduff9525 That's great! You can get help advice of feedback through the discussion boards on each of the course videos. Let me know if I can help further
brian goodwin Hi Brian. Yes the base coat needs to be dry. If you trap moisture into the paint layer by sealing over damp paint it’s liable to bloom and you might get white patches appearing
thanks James, i am a time served painter and this has taken me right back to my colledge days, unfortunately I never got to do much graining after completing my apprenticeship. Great Video mate
Well, for mahogany I'd go for an apricot kind of colour as a base, seal, grain with a little Rosco burnt umber in glaze, stain or overgrown in Vandyke solution and finish off with button polish again. However the graining marks are very different for mahogany. I may get around to a video one day.
Cherry is actually fairly fine grained wood, more so than oak so I would approach it with brushed graining rather than using combs. It's not something I've been asked to do though, so I'm afraid that I don't have a method to offer.
If your looking for tools or materials in the states then try mannbrothers.com/web-brochure.pdf Mann Bros has supplied these things to Hollywood set painters for over 30 years I would even call them from location and have them ship things that I needed all around the country
Odd? Just checked, and it sounds ok on my desktop. Have you tried on a different device? You can see a very similar tutorial as part of my paid "wood finishes" course via the scenic painters website. Its made up of a number of wood finishes tutorials. The oak tutorial is free as a sample course so you could try that one?
Ok I get the button polish for fire proofing but everything else is so wrong , throw that rocker away if you use it in scenic painting trust me it will stick out like a sore thumb. The flogger should only be used as a base for oak not as an over-glaze & not really needed. Steel combs where are they? The only thing going right is the color . If your going to post a tutorial on oak graining do it right , especially if your a scenic artist offering courses. Your teaching the youth of today or anyone interested badly & this is how knowledge is lost.
Thanks for your comments Con Mike. You don’t say if you are a master grainer, a scenic artist or either, but it would be interesting to know. A job like graining can be approached in lots of different ways depending on the situation you are graining for, your budget and timetable. For a high end house this kind of work maybe all wrong but that’s not what it’s designed to do. I paint scenery for the theatre and teach others to do the same. I use a rocker to create heart grain because it’s a quick cost effective way of doing it and for theatre it works on stage. I use rubber combs because for theatre painting we generally use water based paints not oil based paints. Metal combs rust. You’d also have to leave base coats to cure longer as metal combs might scratch them. Have a look at the UK National Theatre video on woodgraining. They use the same tools as me, in pretty much the same way, including a flogger. Are they doing it wrong too? So, I accept that you might not like the way I’m doing this or the look I’ve created. It might not pass in Windsor Castle, but it does in the West End, at Pinewood or on Broadway and my students put it to good effect as they get started in their careers.
Yes I hear you, the roller your using for prep work has a heavy pile sleeve on it , change that to a decent foam one & lay off with that . Use acrylic primer & then acrylic satin/eggshell. Lay these all off well with the roller & you dont need a brush or sand paper (but you can slightly key each layer when dry with a sanding pad) . Thats saved time already & is a basic prep work. Using acrylic glaze tinted with either pigment powders or universal dyes (all cheap) & a wipe out tool rubber/cork/ color shaper , wipe out the heart grain & for the sides use a rubber comb/burlap or flog then run a fine steel comb through the work . steel combs rust yeah, show me a set of well used ones that haven't rusted they rust whether used in oil or water through general use & doesn't effect the work. All of the above is cheap to do & is THE very basic entry level of oak graining. Throw that rubber rocker away & train your self to do it by hand , it looks much more realistic & when good at it its just as fast.
As a decorator back in the 80`s I used to have to prepare the panels in pub refurbs..After a lot of prep,the grainer wanted two coats of a buff colour or another colour called Bamboo all in eggshell finish..
After all my hard work,he would come along with a pot of scumble glaze a flogger,a small rubber and take all the glory.
That said,I always watched him work in awe!
My first boss told me how as an apprentice he would have to prepare rooms ahead of his master painter boss! Who would often fly into a rage if the job was not prepared to his high specifications, and on top of that! he would get a hiding if said boss could'nt see his reflection on his polished hand tools. He would then also take all the glory for the job !😃
Best I have seen, and I have viewed many. I have used this technique many times & been very pleased with the results but I really appreciate the good descriptive technique here! Most realistic 😄
Thanks Bill, glad you liked it! I have more effects on offer here in case they are of interest. scenic-painters.thinkific.com
Absolutely amazing. I have watched a few others now and wasn't really happy with any of them, but yours is the bees knees. Thanks James. Brilliant Demo.
Very kind, thank you. There are a number of other finishes on my website www.scenicpainters.com in the video courses section, some free and some part of a pay to view course. I run courses in scenic painting from my studio in Gloucestershire UK.
great video i have to say you gave your wood a Purdy good flogging and shellacking. Professional job looks like real oak!
Thankyou! There are more tutorials available here if you are interested in more paint effects and finishes.
scenic-painters.thinkific.com
one of the best tutorial videos regarding this topic! thank you
Your welcome!
Honestly, after viewing several of these type videos, guy, you got it right... I gotta thank you, because I know that if I go about it right, it will make my hardwood floors the envy... right...
Glad you liked the video. Did you mean that you were going to paint this effect on your floors? I'm not sure I'd go down that road as eventually it might start to wear off, even with a robust varnish.
Button polish = Shellac for this yank. Outstanding level of expertise shown here.
Button polish is one of several types of shellac for me. Other types include garnet polish transparent polish white knotting and FEV One of my favourite group of materials
Thanks for the feedback on the film!
FYI, Button Polish is available in the US at Rockler
I had no idea.
Awesome job! The brush tapping after the wood grain tool made all the difference! I had t seen anyone else do that and that’s exactly what was missing! It truly made a huge difference! Excellent job! Saving your video so I can come back to it when I’m ready.
BS17 Many thanks. Yes getting a nice quality flogger brush is important too. You want one that has firm bristle
What an incredible piece of work.
I also loved the video and you narrating was just amazing.
Good job all round!
Thankyou! Glad you enjoyed it. Lots more of these on the Scenic Painters website, www.scenicpainters.com. Just go to the online courses section.
Fantastic to watch a fellow tradesman do such amazing work.I’m teaching my apprentice to do this at the moment,unfortunately I fear this is sadly a dying art nowadays and collages don’t teach these skills anymore.Great video👍
This is actually a topic that must be learnt in colleges. Even though broken colour work is dying out it still has to be taught. Wood Graining and Marble effects are both required skills that are needed to pass a Level 2 Diploma in P&D.
Interesting point you make Kira,both my apprentices achieved there level 2 in January. Both apprentices were given marbling,rag rolling and other effects as topics in the curriculum,yet neither one of them even buffed a panel out ready for graining much less attempted any,nor was this topic even discussed.How do you explain why certification can be issued even though the student has never completed key elements that “as you say” should be covered in order to obtain a level 2 in P&D???
It grows in beauty at every stage. Wow.
this looks 100% real.
Hi Michael, The materials I've used here are all water based. I doubt they would last that long outside but you could adapt the method using oil based glazes, dyes and varnishes. It's not just the rain, but also humidity (as you said) and temperature variations would also affect a water based method. Hope this helps.
Hi James, your video has shown the best techniques and the most realistic light oak effect woodgraining I've ever seen, having seen you do this I plan to do my metal panelled garage door, I'll probably have to use different paint/stain with the weather in the UK.
Gaz Barham Thanks for your kind comments. Yes if it’s outside then everything changes materials-wise but the idea should be the same. Build in layers. Working in oil based paints means you can work more slowly. No drying time issues. Think of it in terms of a very good prime layer then the correct base coat. Then the graining layer. You could check out a company called radcliffe who used to make oil based graining glazes. Then a stain layer to add depth. Then a protective layer. Outdoor painting isn’t my area really but I would do a sample before doing the door and then leave it outside for a bit to see how it weathers our weather!
thanks for the nice video - love the old techniques ;)
Thank you so much for sharing this with us. That is so believable. Great work.
Thanks Iris. There are some more tutorials here, some of them free to view. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
Fantastic, thank you for posting this!
Beautiful workmanship.
A check roller really helps to add more depth to the finished article
That's amazing. I'm thinking about re-creating a Rimu veneer panel below a picture rail in my home....restoring to a 1920s look and matching the existing panel in the hallway.. I would love to see your take on that finish.
I can hardly believe that was a piece of mdf! Great work!
Thanks!
This is the tutorial I've been looking for. Now I just need a chart to tell me what colors to mix and match for different species of wood. What I really want to do is walnut.
Glad you liked the tutorial. Walnut is a bit different, not created with combs and rockers but with brushes. I've not made a walnut tutorial so far but there are other woodgraining tutorials including mahogany on my teaching website. you can find your way from here. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
Best technique I've found. Did I see you provide a PDF document to help follow?
Thanks. Glad you found it useful. Pdf here scenicpainters.com/oak.html
@@jamesrowse7134 Great instruction video, thank you. The link didn't take me to the pdf - is it still available please?
@@gsdbellaoneone9325 www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html. Thereto go
Very profesional work, congratulations!!
i like how he goes wrong then puts it right, great info there.. Nice video
Thank you!
This was very impressive! excellent!
That really is incredible.
Awesome job - very realistic.
If you go to this page there is an info sheet under the video which should answer all materials questions.
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
Cheers
James
Is there anyway that I can achieve this result in a darker grey colour? Like a kind of dark ash colour? Thanks, your video is amazing and extremely helpful!
@@MrDaniel1832 Hi Daniel. Send me a picture reference of what you have in mind and I'll see if I can help. info@scenicpainters.com
What an amazing video! Absolutely beautiful and realistic. Too bad the product list is not available, I searched the website and couldn't find it 😢 I want to make faux beams for a tiny house.
Gorgeous!!
Yes ply is ok as a base as long as you prepare it well. The ply needs to be fine grained, hardwood not softwood ply and you must grain in the same direction as the grain. I would do a sample sheet on an off cut and test the result before you have a go at the table
That's marvelous! I've been interested in woodgraining for a long time and now I'm severely tempted to try my hand at a door that is currently grained but whoever did it didn't do a great job. The worst bit is that he grained over a chipping, lumpy coat of old paint! Besides, I'm not even sure what kind of timber he meant to imitate - looks quite random. From far away you get the faint impression of some kind of burl but up close it doesn't look like anything I recognise.
Sounds like lots of prep work needed to get rid of the lumps. Then it’s about masking and painting the parts of the door in the right right order
@@jamesrowse7134 Yes, any kind of paint job on that door (actually a tall set of double doors with three panels each) will require plenty of thorough prep work!
Nice job
first video I've seen where some one had a flogger and even used it correctly just a little hint though, when using your graining tools if you will now and then act like you are nervous and vibrate you hand you will get a very real effect. I guess your a scenic artist in England? in Hollywood the wood graining is done by set painters scenic artists do backings. Great work
Thanks Robert. Yes its the same in the UK, for film work anyway. I mostly work in theatre where there is less of a division between the two groups. Sadly there is less scenic art being done in every industry these days but this week I'm painting cloths for a show coming to Broadway, really old fashioned scenic artwork, "Farinelli and the King"
I worked with a scenic artist years ago on a feature and they had him making silk screens a printing felt for gambling tables that would usually be done in the sign shop but like you said their is less work for scenic artist these days several times working in San Francisco I hired help from their scenic shop at the Opera house and they did set painting for me the sets at the opera house are quite large they took me on a tour
Note the direction in which the 'flogging' is done. Many videos show it being done in the opposite direction (moving towards the brush handle), which produces lateral lines all over the finish and looks terrible.
Its nice and a very good explanation. But I like it better with more wood grain circles effects.
Thank you. An apprenticeship is a great way to learn.
I wouldn't use the brush on the base coat as you will always see the brush marks in the finished article, and use a scumble
I’ve just attempted to grain some cupboard doors, wish I’d watched this first.
Glad you liked the tutorial. There are more videos on offer here. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
Fantastic.
Omg you clever bloke… so perfect
Thanks Jan. Very kind of you.
That turned out very nice. Can you recommend a method to do this over a laminate counter top and a proper food safe sealant?
Looks wonderful. Great job. I need to find the best products available in America to try this.
Tom
Thank you! The Rosco paints mentioned are available in the states but I'm afraid I don't know about the rest. Find a good Scenic suppliers and they should have the rest. If not Flints Hire and Supply in london will have anything you can't find and I'm sure they will send stuff to you
Cheers
James
At the bottom of this page you'll find a pdf file with all the materials listed. Just click the download button.
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
Great stuff
best one I seen
Thanks Josh
Do you think I might get a passable result on plywood table top, I'm an average diy - er? You are obviously an accomplished proffessional. Lovely job
wow!
That's really cool! I want to do something like this but on a metal mail box using outdoor enamel paint (One Shot) however, I don't know if I could get that same "transparent" look being enamel paint is THICK.
OneShot is great paint. The chemistry has changed. The old OneShot contained lead. The newer version is lead free. Both versions can be reduced with paint thinner or if open time is a factor small amounts of kerosene will do the trick. Mr.Rowse in UK call it paraffin. We hope no one reading this becomes confused and seals jars of jam or jellies with kerosene in either country.
OneShot as a glaze coat would need to be mixed with an exterior compatible alkyd polyurethane many times now called "Spar Varnish"
James,
I’ve always been sort of a purist, however you have changed my mind. This looks completely realistic. I’m trying to make some exterior wood (soffits on my cabin) come back to natural wood look. Would this work for exterior? Because they are the soffits, they will not get wet aside from humidity.
In the 19th and early 20th century Europe that was considered an art form on its own and there were highly skilled professionals doing it. The main reason being that some fancy timber species aren't ideal for certain applications, e.g. doors, so a suitable species was used and then faux grained. Solid timber might also have more blemishes than a good graining job.
It should work fine outdoors, provided you use the right materials. I'd probably use exterior grade paints and stains for the process and perhaps finish it with a layer of varnish. I'm just a DIYer too, mind you, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt!
I would love to see how you would manage a 8-12 foot tall wall, doing this technique.
Well that's a big tree! If it was panelled then no problem. A panelled wall is made up of lots of little but ta of wood so it becomes an exercise in masking and patience but a massive expanse of oak in one piece would look a bit odd in my book.
Tea Marie pp.
Awesome watching this being done correctly. Great job. Loved this. How much time did you wait between each drying session.
Thankyou! Must be dry. Water-based paints and varnishes will lift if they are touch dry but still a bit soft and tacky.
James Rowse Thank you, that does help a lot.
hey that's really cool and a great talent you have there. is there an automotive grade set of materials to do this, say I want to re woodgrain my station wagon?
Is that a type of shellac you are using to start first sealer coat with?
Yes button polish (or button shellac) is the material most used to seal the surface when you are painting scenery for theatre, in the UK at least. I believe it's also available in the US and other places.
All water based paints. Check out the link below. At the bottom of the page is an info button. This should download a materials sheet
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/resources/Downloads/Oak-Woodgrain.jpg
Brilliant.
Thanks Jenny!
Great work
Could you send me the products that you used,....This is the best vid. I've seen and would love to do this...! I'd like to do a table. Great look..!
Hi Barry Thanks for that feedback. If you visit this page you can download an info sheet that should tell you what you need to know. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
Thanks a lot, I cant wait to try this. I'm an artist and this is a great way to take woodworking to more of an artsy level,..lol
No worries. Let me know if you'd like to take any of the courses on offer at the studio. This is just one of many paint effects I teach at Scenic Painters.
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
This page has the video embedded at the bottom of the page. Below that is a resources sheet with all the materials listed for you to download
@@jamesrowse7134 All I get is a page with your courses. There is no video or pdf
If you want to seal the MDF Use (sss) shellac sanding sealer not PVA
Hi James! This was great to watch thank you for sharing. I'm working on a project and plan to do something like this on my kitchen cabinets. I went to the link you shared and unfortunately when I press the link for the info PDF it won't download but just refreshes the page. Would you be so kind as to share a working link or send over that doc. I'm really interested in what primer you used. Thank you in advanced.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for letting me know about this problem. I think its fixed now so please go to this page www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html and click the DATA SHEET button under the video. As for primers it will depend on your substrate. in this video I worked on raw MDF and it was not done with kitchen use in mind. I think I'd go for something more substantial as a base, maybe one of the Zinzer primers to start with, then on with an emulsion base etc. Hope this helps.
@@jamesrowse7134 link still doesn't work for me; could you. please, try again?
Impressive!
Cheers!
fantástico , muy buena imitación
Thanks!
www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
Check out the resources sheet at the bottom of the page
good work
Where does one find the PDF you talk about with all the materials listed?
Hi. It's here on this page. www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html
And there's lots more videos about scenic painting available here. scenic-painters.thinkific.com
? can you tell us where to get the grinding "comb" tool with teeth that go from wide to narrow? I've found several with teeth all one size-- what you are using seems a lot better to me.
All kinds of tools and brushes here.. Graining combs right at the bottom of the page. www.flints.co.uk/pdfcatalogue/paintbrushes.pdf
@@jamesrowse7134 Thank you VERY much, Mr. Rowse!! For the tutorial too, of course: extremely helpful.
Data sheets are now gone ... any idea where to find a copy of them? Thank you ...
should be here. www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html
@@jamesrowse7134 thank you! Outstanding work!
hi,may i know specificaly d paint material to do this awesome job.
sir when can I buy this wood grain rubber I'm from Philippines I'm interested from what I've seen in your video...
at lazada.
Great video, how do i Learn how to do other grains for other woods
I have a course online using Thinkific as a teaching platform. The wood Course has a number of other finishes including mahogany, stained parquet, weathered wood and a raised grain old oak. You can find it here along with a course on metal finishes and another on tools and materials. Courses come with a number of pdf resources as well as discussion boards
www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html
@@jamesrowse7134 thank you i've Signed up for the wood grain course, And have ordered some tools online
@@jasonduff9525 That's great! You can get help advice of feedback through the discussion boards on each of the course videos. Let me know if I can help further
oops- that should say "graining" comb, not "grinding" comb.
what color base coat did you use?
silly question but is the base coat dry before applying the sealer?
brian goodwin Hi Brian. Yes the base coat needs to be dry. If you trap moisture into the paint layer by sealing over damp paint it’s liable to bloom and you might get white patches appearing
thanks James, i am a time served painter and this has taken me right back to my colledge days, unfortunately I never got to do much graining after completing my apprenticeship. Great Video mate
hello. Thank you for such a beautiful video. Tell me, what colors do you use? Is it acrylic or oil?
oil.
very nice sir
Thanks!
What colors would you recommend for a darker color, like a cherry or mahogany
Well, for mahogany I'd go for an apricot kind of colour as a base, seal, grain with a little Rosco burnt umber in glaze, stain or overgrown in Vandyke solution and finish off with button polish again. However the graining marks are very different for mahogany. I may get around to a video one day.
@@jamesrowse7134 thank you. Are the graining marks similar for cherry wood
Cherry is actually fairly fine grained wood, more so than oak so I would approach it with brushed graining rather than using combs. It's not something I've been asked to do though, so I'm afraid that I don't have a method to offer.
@@jamesrowse7134 thank you
If your looking for tools or materials in the states then try mannbrothers.com/web-brochure.pdf Mann Bros has supplied these things to Hollywood set painters for over 30 years I would even call them from location and have them ship things that I needed all around the country
where is PDF for this tutorial
If you go to this page and click the info sheet button you'll find the notes. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html
Hi
Butt polish??
Button Polish! A type of Shellac used in furniture finishing and widly used by scenic artists and paint effects people.
But let's change it to butt polish! :p
OMG can hardly hear you!!!
Odd? Just checked, and it sounds ok on my desktop. Have you tried on a different device? You can see a very similar tutorial as part of my paid "wood finishes" course via the scenic painters website. Its made up of a number of wood finishes tutorials. The oak tutorial is free as a sample course so you could try that one?
floging it made it look faker tbh
Ok I get the button polish for fire proofing but everything else is so wrong , throw that rocker away if you use it in scenic painting trust me it will stick out like a sore thumb. The flogger should only be used as a base for oak not as an over-glaze & not really needed. Steel combs where are they? The only thing going right is the color . If your going to post a tutorial on oak graining
do it right , especially if your a scenic artist offering courses. Your teaching the youth of today or anyone interested badly & this is how knowledge is lost.
Thanks for your comments Con Mike. You don’t say if you are a master grainer, a scenic artist or either, but it would be interesting to know. A job like graining can be approached in lots of different ways depending on the situation you are graining for, your budget and timetable. For a high end house this kind of work maybe all wrong but that’s not what it’s designed to do.
I paint scenery for the theatre and teach others to do the same. I use a rocker to create heart grain because it’s a quick cost effective way of doing it and for theatre it works on stage. I use rubber combs because for theatre painting we generally use water based paints not oil based paints. Metal combs rust. You’d also have to leave base coats to cure longer as metal combs might scratch them. Have a look at the UK National Theatre video on woodgraining. They use the same tools as me, in pretty much the same way, including a flogger. Are they doing it wrong too?
So, I accept that you might not like the way I’m doing this or the look I’ve created. It might not pass in Windsor Castle, but it does in the West End, at Pinewood or on Broadway and my students put it to good effect as they get started in their careers.
Yes I hear you, the roller your using for prep work has a heavy pile sleeve on it , change that to a decent foam one & lay off with that . Use acrylic primer & then acrylic satin/eggshell. Lay these all off well with the roller & you dont need a brush or sand paper (but you can slightly key each layer when dry with a sanding pad) . Thats saved time already & is a basic prep work. Using acrylic glaze tinted with either pigment powders or universal dyes (all cheap) & a wipe out tool rubber/cork/ color shaper , wipe out the heart grain & for the sides use a rubber comb/burlap or flog then run a fine steel comb through the work . steel combs rust yeah, show me a set of well used ones that haven't rusted they rust whether used in oil or water through general use & doesn't effect the work. All of the above is cheap to do & is THE very basic entry level of oak graining. Throw that rubber rocker away & train your self to do it by hand , it looks much more realistic & when good at it its just as fast.
I think it looks very real .
Thank you , great job.
@@conmick477 feel free to post video with your way of doing it Sir.
@@mattgloss8580 Dude is flogging his...
Nice job