I cant help getting a slight Bob-Ross-feeling watching that and hearing your comments. At some point I was really waiting for you saying "happy little woodgrains"... Absolutely great technique and perfect tutorial! Thank you for sharing your mastery skills with us.
That's some beautiful work. In scale modeling, we use the same techniques to simulate wood grain on plastic parts that were actually wood on the real objects. One trick I use at the end, though, is to brush or spray a clear orange or orange/yellow mix over the wood grain. It really gives an overall beautiful, warm shellacked look to the wood grain. Thanks for sharing your technique. Cheers.
You brought back memories of my Dad with this and how I learned to woodgrain. As a young man I got my first job painting the outside of a house and the client wanted the doors wood grained. I gave her a price not having a clue how to do it but I knew my old dad could... He came on the job and I nearly had a fit when he painted the undercoat a yellowy colour. He used the same methods as You. I learned a good technique that day just like you demonstrate. Thank you for sharing your skills I am enjoying your videos very much and have subscibed.
Thank you so much. It makes me proud that I would remind you of your dad. Sometimes I wonder if any body really wants to watch these things , but then I hear from people like you and I smile. Thanks again 😁
Incredible! I'm instructed to use a "ROCKER" tool to achieve a wood grain. and have never really been satisfied with the results. This is an amazing video so enlightening!!!
Thank you, I’ve tried that tool you spoke of. It looks unrealistic to me, and is hard to navigate in smaller situations. Have fun! And thanks for watching 😎
This was awesome to see that come together from start to finish. Thanks for the lesson, and for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am subscribed and will check out your other videos.
Fantastic video and details. Thank you! What type of paint would you recommend using as the base coat on a wooden floor (i.e., latex or oil, etc.) Then, after the gel stain, what would you recommend for the top coat since it would be a floor? I'd hugely appreciate your recommendations. Thank you again for sharing your technique and beautiful work! 😊
@@sheilaquattrocchi9274 🤔I never did it on a floor. I would ask a paint store representative about a durable clear coat. Maybe a acrylic clear would work 🤷♀️try a few samples and test its durability. Thank you for your kind words. And thanks for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you so much for your quick reply! And, thank you for your advice. I can/will do that! 😊 Again, your work you showed in that video was outstanding! Take good care!
I stripped the wood window trims and the doors of an old house. My intention was to stain the bare wood. UnfortunateIy, the wood was not in perfect condition and I had to repair it here and there. Plus, I couldn't strip the old paint perfectly around the edges. I had no choice but to paint everything. It looked terrible! I knew I have to do something, but I didn't know what to do. Then I saw your video and you have no idea how happy I am! Thank you. Pretty much, what I need to do know is to add some gel stain over the boring paint I already applied. Is a latex based paint, satin finish. I hope applying a gel stain would be fine at this point. Actually, I tried on a small area, but I didn't liked the result. It didn't dry immediately and the color was weird, instead of oak, it was something greenish. Looking again at your video I realized that you added a little bit of mineral oil. I hope that will make the difference. I've seen people applying kind of glaze over the base coat paint, but it looks like the whole process is longer than your method and I am not sure if you can do this on real wood. People were doing this on canvas.
Ok… if it was me. I would paint the base coat with enamel oil base. Let it dry , then work with the gel stain. Do some samples of different base coat colors , but with the same color gel coat , you will get different tones of wood. If you want a mahogany wood look. Use a brownish red color base with a hickory or coffee color gel stain. Let it dry for a couple days. Then brush clear it with a gloss or satin varnish. Always try small samples until your happy. I hope I helped you. Good luck thanks for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you for your advice! So everything should be oil based: the base coat, the gel stain and the varnish? I just bought a hickory gel stain from Home Depot. There were only 4-5 choices. They had a variety of penetrating stains, but very few gel stains. I will try different combinations of base coat-gel stain. I bought a small sample of a kind of reddish orange. My aim is the final color to be somehow close to a cherry/red oak/red mahogany finish to match the kitchen cabinets. Thank you again!
That’s the only way I do it. I never tried latex base coat. The base coat probably could be water base. Try it ,but gel stain and varnish , I feel should be oil base.
How did you get your start? I do graffiti but I'm older now and want a CAREER. I saw your gold leaf video and numbering and pinstriping is exactly what I feel like I was meant to do. It's a dying art and in my 31 years I've never known anyone with a paint set, or the knowledge to pass down. How can I get into painting? Particularly lettering, sign painting, and numbering cars etc. (I have my own knowledge of fonts, and a steady hand, I just have NO clue where to start- middle of nowhere midwest) thanks for your help Bendi! Love your work lots. (I don't want to get like a wal mart paint set, I want to really dive into this)
You need a couple things to start, talent and passion. Which you have! The rest comes with practice. There is so much to look at with social media, lettering, striping and how to videos. I wish I had this when I was starting out. Ok. Now for the products you’ll need. I’m going to tell you what I use , you can research other options, I’m sure there all comparable. I use “Ronan “ lettering enamel and 1shot lettering enamel. I think Ronon is a better product and more reasonabley priced. I thin my enamel with 100 percent mineral spirits. You can get it Home Depot. The brushes you will need to start are Mack sword stripers , I use 00 size brushes. And for lettering , I use different size quills. Get an assortment. They go by numbers, 2 would be small.,up to 15 or so . Brown quills are soft, for lettering on glass. I mostly use grey. Or brown andgrey mixed. They have more snap .There good for truck lettering or signage. Luco, Langnickle, French Master , there all good brushes. You can shop online to get all these products. I like going into stores to shop for my brushes, to touch and feel them , but there’s no stores in my area any more,so I go online.😫I know it might sound weird gut every brush in my kit has its own personality, you’ll understand. I hope this helps. Have fun and strive to be the best you can. It will be rewarding. 😎
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you so much for replying. I think I'm going to dive into this in the upcoming days off I'll make sure to tag you if I post a video !
I plan to do this to my old woodie station wagon..after I get it repainted. It needs the exterior woodgrain vinyl wrap replaced because its cracking and peeling off due to the car being almost 40 years old.
Wow, I love this ! and would like to try something like this! Do surfaces need to be primed or pretreated anyhow before doing it like that? For example doors in the house, garage doors? Or is any paint underneath is okay? Also, can you apply clear coat right after you're finished without waiting days? Thanks in advance for your advice 😊
doing a steel house door…. The doors usually have a primer, or if it is a older door , it’s already painted. Then you would not need a primer .I would put a base coat color on , in latex or enamel. Let it dry. Then pick your gel stain you want to use and get started. Look at real wood doors. The way they cut the wood and the way the wood panels are horizontal and vertical. This will help make the faux wood look more realistic. I would wait 24 hours before you varnish it. Different color backgrounds will change the look of the wood. Try some samples first. Look at wood and try to imitate its grain. It’s fun ! Good luck and thank you for watching
We’ll… that’s a pretty vague question. Is it interior parts, and can they be taken off to do them.? Is the trim on exterior? You can do the same process, just make sure to use automotive urethane clear
The trim should be removed so you can mask and spray the clear over your woodgrain , if you do not spray a urethane clear over the artwork , it won’t have any durability. I’ve done model a does window trim, but that is removed, sanded then cleared. They may sell a vinyl wrap in different colors for that vehicle. That’s the direction I would go. Thanks for watching 😎
Excellent work, but I'm totally baffled why you kept that ONE...that *SINGLE* dark strip that you 1st did that sticks out like a sore thumb that you think "works" with all the rest.
@@Kman. I thought about that. But then I think, maybe they had to replace that board because of damage in the past. I like things lil quirky🤷♀️😁😎thank you for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Sure, & one last question...I would have thought that placing the painters tape on freshly gelled areas would have stuck or pulled some of the pattern off, but obviously not. I would have thought that you would have to let it completely dry, & gel stain takes a _LOOOOONG_ time to do so.
@@Kman. the tape is not pressed down hard. It’s just lying on the gel. And tho it takes a long while for it to dry, it sets up rather quickly. I use mineral spirits to thin the gel which helps it set up quicker.
Beautiful work!! I had to laugh when you got the brush close to the boat's deck the first time. I thought it was a full sized boat! So, the project I'm working on is a classic 1968 Bertram Bahia Mar 20 that was my dad's before he passed. I am restoring it with the brand new Bertram 35 as inspiration. Check out the transom of the 35 and then try to do the math on how expensive it would be to completely replace my existing transom with that. Astronomical! However, if I do it like this, then put the boat's name across the back and epoxy over it... I mean... I get the same look for literally pennies. Thanks very much for this video, and take a look at my channel to see where I'm at with my boat. Here's the Bertram 35 I'm getting my inspiration from. ua-cam.com/video/9aV3xp2QSyM/v-deo.html
Great sir !
And your comments are lovely. You’re a lovely patient teacher !
@@mauricebrocco8131 thank you so much😎❤️
I cant help getting a slight Bob-Ross-feeling watching that and hearing your comments. At some point I was really waiting for you saying "happy little woodgrains"... Absolutely great technique and perfect tutorial! Thank you for sharing your mastery skills with us.
Thank you so much😁
I was looking for the happy tree too😂
Yes... Bob Ross vibes and 😂 "happy little woodgrains"
That's some beautiful work. In scale modeling, we use the same techniques to simulate wood grain on plastic parts that were actually wood on the real objects. One trick I use at the end, though, is to brush or spray a clear orange or orange/yellow mix over the wood grain. It really gives an overall beautiful, warm shellacked look to the wood grain. Thanks for sharing your technique. Cheers.
You brought back memories of my Dad with this and how I learned to woodgrain. As a young man I got my first job painting the outside of a house and the client wanted the doors wood grained. I gave her a price not having a clue how to do it but I knew my old dad could... He came on the job and I nearly had a fit when he painted the undercoat a yellowy colour. He used the same methods as You. I learned a good technique that day just like you demonstrate. Thank you for sharing your skills I am enjoying your videos very much and have subscibed.
Thank you so much. It makes me proud that I would remind you of your dad. Sometimes I wonder if any body really wants to watch these things , but then I hear from people like you and I smile. Thanks again 😁
A1 Top NOTCH! Watched it all the way throught!
Thank you so much!😎
Incredible! I'm instructed to use a "ROCKER" tool to achieve a wood grain. and have never really been satisfied with the results. This is an amazing video so enlightening!!!
Thank you, I’ve tried that tool you spoke of. It looks unrealistic to me, and is hard to navigate in smaller situations. Have fun! And thanks for watching 😎
I really enjoyed this video. Thanks for sharing. Makes me really want to do another fiberglassic and do this to it.
I’m glad you are inspired. Have fun and thanks for watching 😎
Honestly your videos are fantastic, all the way through this video my head has been running through things I could add wood grain too.
😁👍thank you so much !!have fun!!
looks amazing! very realistic 👌🏻
Thank you😁😎
This was awesome to see that come together from start to finish. Thanks for the lesson, and for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am subscribed and will check out your other videos.
Thanks for watching. 😎
Thank you for all your hard work.
Thank you kindly.
Good tutorial.
Cheers m8.
@@trebel thank you much for watching ❤️😎
Very nice job. Interesting technique. 👍🏻
Thank you
Love your work . You’ve done some work for the towing company I work for ( Lin -mar ) fantastic work! Wish I had a steady hand !
Thank you!😎
Fantastic video and details. Thank you! What type of paint would you recommend using as the base coat on a wooden floor (i.e., latex or oil, etc.) Then, after the gel stain, what would you recommend for the top coat since it would be a floor? I'd hugely appreciate your recommendations. Thank you again for sharing your technique and beautiful work! 😊
@@sheilaquattrocchi9274 🤔I never did it on a floor. I would ask a paint store representative about a durable clear coat. Maybe a acrylic clear would work 🤷♀️try a few samples and test its durability. Thank you for your kind words. And thanks for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you so much for your quick reply! And, thank you for your advice. I can/will do that! 😊 Again, your work you showed in that video was outstanding! Take good care!
I stripped the wood window trims and the doors of an old house. My intention was to stain the bare wood. UnfortunateIy, the wood was not in perfect condition and I had to repair it here and there. Plus, I couldn't strip the old paint perfectly around the edges. I had no choice but to paint everything. It looked terrible! I knew I have to do something, but I didn't know what to do. Then I saw your video and you have no idea how happy I am! Thank you.
Pretty much, what I need to do know is to add some gel stain over the boring paint I already applied. Is a latex based paint, satin finish. I hope applying a gel stain would be fine at this point. Actually, I tried on a small area, but I didn't liked the result. It didn't dry immediately and the color was weird, instead of oak, it was something greenish. Looking again at your video I realized that you added a little bit of mineral oil. I hope that will make the difference.
I've seen people applying kind of glaze over the base coat paint, but it looks like the whole process is longer than your method and I am not sure if you can do this on real wood. People were doing this on canvas.
Ok… if it was me. I would paint the base coat with enamel oil base. Let it dry , then work with the gel stain. Do some samples of different base coat colors , but with the same color gel coat , you will get different tones of wood. If you want a mahogany wood look. Use a brownish red color base with a hickory or coffee color gel stain. Let it dry for a couple days. Then brush clear it with a gloss or satin varnish. Always try small samples until your happy. I hope I helped you. Good luck thanks for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you for your advice!
So everything should be oil based: the base coat, the gel stain and the varnish?
I just bought a hickory gel stain from Home Depot. There were only 4-5 choices. They had a variety of penetrating stains, but very few gel stains. I will try different combinations of base coat-gel stain. I bought a small sample of a kind of reddish orange. My aim is the final color to be somehow close to a cherry/red oak/red mahogany finish to match the kitchen cabinets.
Thank you again!
That’s the only way I do it. I never tried latex base coat. The base coat probably could be water base. Try it ,but gel stain and varnish , I feel should be oil base.
It looks great you do a good job
Thank you for watching 👍😎
How did you get your start? I do graffiti but I'm older now and want a CAREER. I saw your gold leaf video and numbering and pinstriping is exactly what I feel like I was meant to do. It's a dying art and in my 31 years I've never known anyone with a paint set, or the knowledge to pass down. How can I get into painting? Particularly lettering, sign painting, and numbering cars etc. (I have my own knowledge of fonts, and a steady hand, I just have NO clue where to start- middle of nowhere midwest) thanks for your help Bendi! Love your work lots. (I don't want to get like a wal mart paint set, I want to really dive into this)
You need a couple things to start, talent and passion. Which you have! The rest comes with practice. There is so much to look at with social media, lettering, striping and how to videos. I wish I had this when I was starting out. Ok. Now for the products you’ll need. I’m going to tell you what I use , you can research other options, I’m sure there all comparable. I use “Ronan “ lettering enamel and 1shot lettering enamel. I think Ronon is a better product and more reasonabley priced. I thin my enamel with 100 percent mineral spirits. You can get it Home Depot. The brushes you will need to start are Mack sword stripers , I use 00 size brushes. And for lettering , I use different size quills. Get an assortment. They go by numbers, 2 would be small.,up to 15 or so . Brown quills are soft, for lettering on glass. I mostly use grey. Or brown andgrey mixed. They have more snap .There good for truck lettering or signage. Luco, Langnickle, French Master , there all good brushes. You can shop online to get all these products. I like going into stores to shop for my brushes, to touch and feel them , but there’s no stores in my area any more,so I go online.😫I know it might sound weird gut every brush in my kit has its own personality, you’ll understand. I hope this helps. Have fun and strive to be the best you can. It will be rewarding. 😎
@@rickbendi8709 Thank you so much for replying. I think I'm going to dive into this in the upcoming days off I'll make sure to tag you if I post a video !
Great!!!
I plan to do this to my old woodie station wagon..after I get it repainted. It needs the exterior woodgrain vinyl wrap replaced because its cracking and peeling off due to the car being almost 40 years old.
I actually did one. It was fun. Good luck. Thanks for watching
Wow, I love this ! and would like to try something like this! Do surfaces need to be primed or pretreated anyhow before doing it like that? For example doors in the house, garage doors? Or is any paint underneath is okay? Also, can you apply clear coat right after you're finished without waiting days? Thanks in advance for your advice 😊
doing a steel house door…. The doors usually have a primer, or if it is a older door , it’s already painted. Then you would not need a primer .I would put a base coat color on , in latex or enamel. Let it dry. Then pick your gel stain you want to use and get started. Look at real wood doors. The way they cut the wood and the way the wood panels are horizontal and vertical. This will help make the faux wood look more realistic. I would wait 24 hours before you varnish it. Different color backgrounds will change the look of the wood. Try some samples first. Look at wood and try to imitate its grain. It’s fun ! Good luck and thank you for watching
Wow I love it ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!😎
Nice 72 cutlass
😁thanks. Its a 71. 😎
@@rickbendi8709 Would you mind helping me with my 93 Buick Roadmaster wagon i'm trying to make wood grain on the panels with ruatolleum spraypaint
Can I do this on the sides of a fiberglass/fylon camper?
Yes, but you must automotive clear over the top of it. For durability. Thanks for watching 😎
Down and dirty..that's the way to go. Over thinkin' leads to stinkin'! thx!
🤣thank you!!!
I have 41 buick. You just saved me $$$$$ let you know how it goes, thank you
My car has light brown wood grain trims …. How do I change it to black or dark grey wood grain stain instead….
We’ll… that’s a pretty vague question. Is it interior parts, and can they be taken off to do them.? Is the trim on exterior? You can do the same process, just make sure to use automotive urethane clear
@@rickbendi8709 search “2010 Lexus RX 350 interior”… it’s the 10th or so picture down with the wood trim pieces
The trim should be removed so you can mask and spray the clear over your woodgrain , if you do not spray a urethane clear over the artwork , it won’t have any durability. I’ve done model a does window trim, but that is removed, sanded then cleared. They may sell a vinyl wrap in different colors for that vehicle. That’s the direction I would go. Thanks for watching 😎
@@rickbendi8709 ok so…. Take off trim… spray PRIMER right? , then a gloss Elemel spray can, then clear coat…. Right ?
Take off trim. Prime. Then paint base color. Let that dry. Then woodgrain it. Then clear coat it.
Excellent work, but I'm totally baffled why you kept that ONE...that *SINGLE* dark strip that you 1st did that sticks out like a sore thumb that you think "works" with all the rest.
@@Kman. I thought about that. But then I think, maybe they had to replace that board because of damage in the past. I like things lil quirky🤷♀️😁😎thank you for watching
@@rickbendi8709 Sure, & one last question...I would have thought that placing the painters tape on freshly gelled areas would have stuck or pulled some of the pattern off, but obviously not. I would have thought that you would have to let it completely dry, & gel stain takes a _LOOOOONG_ time to do so.
@@Kman. the tape is not pressed down hard. It’s just lying on the gel. And tho it takes a long while for it to dry, it sets up rather quickly. I use mineral spirits to thin the gel which helps it set up quicker.
You have skill.
Thank you 👍
WooWWWWW!!!!!
😎😁👍
Me at 5 minutes in: Eh, looks kinda shitty
Me at 25 minutes in: 😲
Keep playing with it . You’ll get there😎
Beautiful work!! I had to laugh when you got the brush close to the boat's deck the first time. I thought it was a full sized boat!
So, the project I'm working on is a classic 1968 Bertram Bahia Mar 20 that was my dad's before he passed. I am restoring it with the brand new Bertram 35 as inspiration. Check out the transom of the 35 and then try to do the math on how expensive it would be to completely replace my existing transom with that. Astronomical! However, if I do it like this, then put the boat's name across the back and epoxy over it... I mean... I get the same look for literally pennies. Thanks very much for this video, and take a look at my channel to see where I'm at with my boat.
Here's the Bertram 35 I'm getting my inspiration from.
ua-cam.com/video/9aV3xp2QSyM/v-deo.html
That’s a great idea. Thank you for watching
If I could pinstripe like that, I could make enough money to use real wood.
😆thanks for watching