Don't forget to spread some oil on the filter gasket to keep it from sticking and to replace the drain plug crush washer. I am not sure how critical spreading oil on the gasket is on this filter assembly, but it is critical on spin on filters. Crush washers are cheap in bulk and I see that you have them listed in your description.
Good advice about jackstands. You might add to look in your owner's manual for jacking points; the hoist and the jackstands are probably not located where the temporary tire-changing jack would go. Or provide guidance on how to intelligently select a strong member to jack up. That's a cool flexible tool for the drain plug! Another tip about oil filters: If they are mounted with the open end up (not like this one), you can pre-fill them with oil before mounting them. This will lessen the delay to get oil fully charged into the oil system when you start up again. That is an interesting method of measuring the correct amount of oil to refill; but you would have to do more arithmetic if you use the pre-fill technique with the oil filter!😬 You say your oil change interval is 5,000 miles. Is that what your manufacturer recommends? If not, maybe you should say why. You call the filter both a "cartridge" and "element". This type of replacement part is correctly called an "element". I am not familiar with this type of cartridge. You may want to note that this type of cartridge requires more torque to seat it properly because of the O-ring seal. You DEFINITELY DO NOT WANT TO use a wrench to tighten a spin-on oil filter. For those, you want it hand-tight, or maybe less than 1/4 turn past hand tight.
Thanks for all the feedback. Yes, I put the jack and stands on the frame. OK, not exactly a frame since this is a uni-body, but there are stamped beams that pretty much serve as a frame. I have a link to the drain plug tool in the description. It was only $9 and well worth it. There are not many cars that have a vertical filter that your trick will work with. I change the oil on 4 Toyotas in my family. This is the only one that has the "element" and the rest use spin on. However, they are all horizontal so it would be a mess to attempt to pre-fill. Scotty has a great rant about the "elements" and he refers to them as cartridges to I intentionally used both terms ua-cam.com/video/NaV1wvTpHCs/v-deo.html
@@TedIskenderian You could try to tell him, but since he is now over 6 million subscribers he can pretty much invent his own name and it will stick. If you do a search on Amazon for both "oil filter element" and "oil filter cartridge" you will pretty much get the same results so both names are recognized. However, you are correct that if I look carefully at the Toyota packaging they do call it an "element".
There are quite a few UA-cam videos dedicated to that very topic. On several of them they open up the filter and prove that some metal particles do indeed get trapped against the metal wall of the filter. Unfortunately, that trick will not work on this cartridge type filter and is yet another reason that I much prefer a conventional filter. The only good thing about the cartridge filter is they do cost slightly less if you compare an original Toyota element with a Toyota Spin on. Of course, you could get a cheap Fram Spin on for less than a Toyota element, but that is hardly a fair comparison. I only use Frame Ultra or WIX on my other cars, which usually cost $8-$10 and the Toyota Elements are only $6 in bulk. I have the link in the description. You could use after market element filters, but they are very close to the Toyota price and not worth it.
No consumption issues. I believe that the 2AZ-FE engine is in the 2009-2010 Corolla XRS and this is a 2013 Corolla LE with a 2ZR-FE. Believe it or not we have 4 Corollas in my family: a 2008 Matrix, 2010 Corolla LE, this 2013 Corolla LE and a 2016 Corolla LE. I change the oil on all of them with full synthetic every 5k miles and use premium filters (usually Fram Ultra or WIX). None of them needs oil between changes. The cars are generally in a mild climate and not driven aggressively. I never miss an oil change and nearly always do it myself. One reason I made this video is so that my sons will start changing their own oil instead of just filming for me:)
@@cyu601 My pleasure. The best way to show your appreciate is to "like and subscribe". I am now at 771 subscribers and if I hit 1000 there is a chance I could make a few cents per month from UA-cam!
good job
Don't forget to spread some oil on the filter gasket to keep it from sticking and to replace the drain plug crush washer. I am not sure how critical spreading oil on the gasket is on this filter assembly, but it is critical on spin on filters. Crush washers are cheap in bulk and I see that you have them listed in your description.
Good advice about jackstands. You might add to look in your owner's manual for jacking points; the hoist and the jackstands are probably not located where the temporary tire-changing jack would go. Or provide guidance on how to intelligently select a strong member to jack up.
That's a cool flexible tool for the drain plug! Another tip about oil filters: If they are mounted with the open end up (not like this one), you can pre-fill them with oil before mounting them. This will lessen the delay to get oil fully charged into the oil system when you start up again. That is an interesting method of measuring the correct amount of oil to refill; but you would have to do more arithmetic if you use the pre-fill technique with the oil filter!😬 You say your oil change interval is 5,000 miles. Is that what your manufacturer recommends? If not, maybe you should say why.
You call the filter both a "cartridge" and "element". This type of replacement part is correctly called an "element". I am not familiar with this type of cartridge. You may want to note that this type of cartridge requires more torque to seat it properly because of the O-ring seal. You DEFINITELY DO NOT WANT TO use a wrench to tighten a spin-on oil filter. For those, you want it hand-tight, or maybe less than 1/4 turn past hand tight.
Thanks for all the feedback. Yes, I put the jack and stands on the frame. OK, not exactly a frame since this is a uni-body, but there are stamped beams that pretty much serve as a frame. I have a link to the drain plug tool in the description. It was only $9 and well worth it. There are not many cars that have a vertical filter that your trick will work with. I change the oil on 4 Toyotas in my family. This is the only one that has the "element" and the rest use spin on. However, they are all horizontal so it would be a mess to attempt to pre-fill. Scotty has a great rant about the "elements" and he refers to them as cartridges to I intentionally used both terms ua-cam.com/video/NaV1wvTpHCs/v-deo.html
@@DYI I never thought I would have an opportunity to say "Scotty was wrong to call them cartridges"!
@@TedIskenderian You could try to tell him, but since he is now over 6 million subscribers he can pretty much invent his own name and it will stick. If you do a search on Amazon for both "oil filter element" and "oil filter cartridge" you will pretty much get the same results so both names are recognized. However, you are correct that if I look carefully at the Toyota packaging they do call it an "element".
@@DYI Yah. Just trying to slow the decline of western civilization.
What do you think about adding magnets to the outside of an oil filter?
There are quite a few UA-cam videos dedicated to that very topic. On several of them they open up the filter and prove that some metal particles do indeed get trapped against the metal wall of the filter. Unfortunately, that trick will not work on this cartridge type filter and is yet another reason that I much prefer a conventional filter. The only good thing about the cartridge filter is they do cost slightly less if you compare an original Toyota element with a Toyota Spin on. Of course, you could get a cheap Fram Spin on for less than a Toyota element, but that is hardly a fair comparison. I only use Frame Ultra or WIX on my other cars, which usually cost $8-$10 and the Toyota Elements are only $6 in bulk. I have the link in the description. You could use after market element filters, but they are very close to the Toyota price and not worth it.
Is this the 2AZ-FE engine? Do you have any oil consumption issues?
No consumption issues. I believe that the 2AZ-FE engine is in the 2009-2010 Corolla XRS and this is a 2013 Corolla LE with a 2ZR-FE. Believe it or not we have 4 Corollas in my family: a 2008 Matrix, 2010 Corolla LE, this 2013 Corolla LE and a 2016 Corolla LE. I change the oil on all of them with full synthetic every 5k miles and use premium filters (usually Fram Ultra or WIX). None of them needs oil between changes. The cars are generally in a mild climate and not driven aggressively. I never miss an oil change and nearly always do it myself. One reason I made this video is so that my sons will start changing their own oil instead of just filming for me:)
@@DYI Thanks for the response.
@@cyu601 My pleasure. The best way to show your appreciate is to "like and subscribe". I am now at 771 subscribers and if I hit 1000 there is a chance I could make a few cents per month from UA-cam!