Additional video on this topic. *Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap* ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html 🔷Most fuse taps come with a 16 awg or 14 awg wire (smaller wire awg number is a bigger wire which can carry more current) to supply power to the new accessory. The awg wire size / gauge will be a limiting factor as to the max amperage that can be supplied safely via this fuse tap. In most cases, this means a 10 amp fuse is likely to be the maximum fuse amp rating you can use for the new accessory. If the wire from the fuse tap is quite long, the maximum fuse amp rating may be reduced even further. 🔷If you need to add a high amp draw power circuit to supply power to a new accessory, you may want to consider using a fuse tap to supply power to a switched power relay (with a fuse in the relay or in the other power circuit where the relay gets the power for the new accessory). The fuse tap power (switched power or switched with RAP) can supply power to the control side of the new relay. When the fuse tap supplies power to the relay, the relay closes the circuit and the relay then supplies power to the new accessory from the power source the relay is connected to with an appropriately sized fuse and wire awg being used for that power circuit. 🔷At 5:43 in the video I mentioned that you need to have the ignition switch in the appropriate position to make sure it provides the required power type (switched, switched with RAP or unswitched). To find a switched power fuse socket, you must start off with the ignition switch off and locate the candidate fuse sockets that don't have power, then turn on the ignition switch to see if the fuse socket does receive power at that point. If you need a switched power with RAP capabilities fuse socket, you would need to turn off the ignition switch leaving the retained accessory power feature still active and then test the fuse socket again to make sure it was providing that type of power.
Thank you for your suggestions, they are very helpful.. Not only BlackVue B-124X battery pack does not provide Low-profile Mini fuse taps with the battery , but also in the user manual does not talk about as to what gauge of low profile mini fuse tap one should buy separately... There are different websites selling low profile mini fuse taps, but all of them have different awg... for example: BlackVue provided fuse taps(Ato, Micro2 & Mini) have this awg: 14awg 600v 1015 105'c awm other seller #1: 16awg 600v 1015 105'c awm (low profile mini fuse taps) other seller #2: 18awg 600v 1015 105'c awm (low profile mini fuse taps) Gauge - depicts the amounts of load/current a wire can handle safely.. could you tell me, what gauge of a low profile mini fuse tap i should get....out of these three given below 14 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 15-18 amps 16 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 10-13 amps 18 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 7-10 amps In my vehicle's interior fuse box, these are the switched accessory fuses I found.. would you please help locating a fuse that is not critical to the power... can't figure out which one is the right one.. 1) [20A - WIP RR(RearWIndowWiper)], 2) [10A-EPS IG], 3) [15A-WASHER RR(RearWindowWasher)], 4) [20A-WASHER(WinshieldWasher)], 5) [10A-ECU IG NO.3], 6) [10A-HTR-IG(AirConditionSystem)], 7) [7.5A-GUAGE NO.2(Guages&Meters,MultiInformationSystem)], 8) [15A- S-HTR FL(SeatHeaterLeftSide)], 9) [15A- S-HTR FR(SeatHeaterRightSide)], 10) [15A- P/VENT(PowerQuarterWindows)], 11) [7.5A- WIP ECU(WindshieldWiper&RearWindowWiper)], 12) [15A- STRG HTR], Thank You for all your help..
The wire gauge (awg) governs two factors - amperage it can carry for a particular distance. I would recommend getting the lowest awg value possible. A lower awg number is a thicker wire that can handle higher current loads. Of the three mentioned, the 14 awg can carry the most current/amps for the longest distance. The fuse sockets you listed have a few potential sockets that can be used. Stay away from any fuse socket that supplies power to an "... ECU". The "EPS IG" fuse appears to be for the electric power steering so stay away from that one. Any of the "SeatHeater....." fuse sockets might be a fuse socket that can be used. The "STRG HTR" fuse socket looks like a heated steering wheel so it too is a decent candidate. All of the heater fuse sockets have a 15A fuse in them so the max fuse I would recommend is a 15 amp fuse for the new accessory (B-124X). This is assuming there are no empty fuse sockets available in the fuse box that have switched power.
@@RetroCarGuy530sorry for bugging you with questions... Just noticed that I Do not have Heated Seats in my vehicle, but there are already fuses(15A fuse in each slots) for them in my interior fuse box. just wondering why these fuses r there when my cloth seats have no such options or buttons to turn them on on my dashboard/instrument panel.. As per your suggestion and as far as the orientation of fuse taps go, S-HTR FL & S-HTR FR are both viable candidate for tapping fuses into them without blocking fuse box cover in the way... Since i have heated seat fuses 15A each & they are not operational (No Current Draw).. so Should I go with 15A fuse(Bottom Slot of the fuse tap) WITH 10A? OR 15A? or 20A? (Top Slot of the fuse taps)... Thank You!!
Sorry I didn't reply sooner, UA-cam doesn't present replies to comments in a manner that is easy to see. If there is a fuse in the fuse socket, it would suggest that something is being powered by the power from that fuse. It is certainly possible that those fuses/fuse sockets are leftovers from a version of that vehicle with the seat heaters. The "safest" approach would be to put the 15A fuse in the bottom slot of the fuse tap and up to a 10A fuse for the new accessory powered by the fuse tap. I like to limit the max draw from a blade fuse style fuse socket to 25 amps (some say 30A is ok). If you're 100 percent sure there is nothing being powered by the pre-existing 15A fuse or fuses, you could simply leave the 15A fuse out of the bottom socket of the fuse tap and you could in theory put up to a 20A fuse in the top slot (if the fuse tap and other wiring to the accessory will support 20 amps). There are three main factors that go into the max fuse amperage size for the new accessory (amperage already supplied by the fuse socket, wire gauge of fuse tap and wiring to the new accessory including its ground wiring and the length of the wiring used for the new accessory). If you haven't watched my FAQ video I created in the past week or so, you might want to check that out where I try to identify the questions / answers that one needs to figure out when trying to size the max fuse amperage size for a fuse tap. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html I hope this answers your questions.
This is literally the only video I could find that actually left me feeling confident by the end. The density of knowledge here spares no expense to the thoroughness of it. Thank you, you got me over a major hurdle here.
YES, this is the video! To all of the people who had already watched several other tutorials on fuse tapping and still have questions. This video will answer all of them👍
I have watched dozens of videos about fuse taps. Yours is the most concise, logical and easy to understand. Thank you for posting this excellent presentation.
Damn, finally. I’ve been trying to figure out for days what to do with the lower portion of the fuse tap, since the fuse box socket had no original fuse. Thanks man, great work!
I know this video is a year old now but I wanted to say thank you. I've hardwired many things in the past but never with a "tap a fuse". I hardwired a dash cam with motion sensor and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I had one of the "tap a fuse" facing a different direction than the other for wire tidiness reasons. After seeing this video I slapped my forehead. Duh of course the power is only coming from one side or the fuses would be pointless. Thank you for saving my sanity.
Amazing video. I think most of people (me included) thought the add-a-fuse could go either way while orientation is key. Otherwise you will have both devices on the lower fuse shoulders and likely to blow. My tip to check the orientation (might be easier). Plug the add-a-fuse ONLY with the top fuse inserted (leave the bottom slot empty). Plug it in. If you have 12 output from the red cable you are good. Otherwise you need to twist the add-a-fuse upside down. Once orientation is correct add the bottom fuse if needed. Should make sense.
This has come up a few times in the comments since I released this video in Dec 2019. I totally agree with your recommendation. I've updated the video's description section with this approach and there's a brief demonstration of this method at 11:00 in the video where I'm testing for power, but that was after testing with the 1/2 fuse. Thanks for the suggestion!
I too watched multiple videos and multiple web sites with no answer to my questions. THANK YOU , THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!! My questions were: 1. Which side is the hot side on a fuse tap. Others glossed over it. You were very precise with pictures and typed out what is what. 2. If I could use only one fuse for the cb add on I wanted to use. 3. That I could use on open slot. And how to use it. Thanks again!
Thanks for explaining the difference between tapping into a fuse that’s already there and tapping into a open slot that may have power and how not to put a fuse in the bottom of using a open slot. I couldn’t really find information on that.
This was so much clearer than any diagram or video I could find. I now feel confident I can install my dash cam and have it wired properly for safety. Thank you.
I'm glad it helped. There are a couple of different trains of thought on this topic of using a fuse tap to obtain power for a new device/accessory. What I demonstrate in this video is the "in parallel" approach of routing the power through the fuse tap. The power obtained from the fuse box fuse socket is directly routed to both the lower and upper fuse sockets in the fuse tap. There's another approach which would be labeled "in series" power routing approach. That's where the power from the fuse box fuse socket goes up the right leg of the fuse tap, through the lower fuse in the fuse tap and then down the left leg of the fuse tap to the original fuse box fuse socket and it also goes then up to the fuse tap's upper fuse socket. All of the power load runs through the lower fuse in the fuse tap. Which approach is best to use will result in spirited discussion/debates. The "in series" power routing method can be seen as the absolute safest approach, but it may also lead to blowing the original fuse in the lower fuse tap fuse socket since both power loads are being run through the lower fuse. For dash cameras, radar detectors and similar power demanding devices (usually 2 amps and very often dash cameras use less than 1 amp), the "in parallel" power routing approach is very safe. It will only be adding 2 or often less than 1 amp to the circuit that is supplying the power to the fuse box fuse socket. Thanks for checking out this video! I have another video that tries to explain the "in parallel" approach a little more in depth. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
I've been collecting info from all sorts of fuse tap install info vids so I can make my own "complete" video to share with a friend. You just took care of that here. I need to do nothing more. I'm sending your video right over to him. Thank you, sir.
I've never used a fuse tap and just assumed you would just plug it in and go but I never thought about orienting it for the power to always go through the fuse for the fuse to do its job. Makes perfect sense. I'm glad I watched this video.
Super helpful explanation of how to determine which side of the fuse slot has 12v to make sure the tap is oriented correctly. I also learned that fuses have the exposed metal on too for probing. I have never noticed that before!
Best video about this and it’s not even close! You’ve earned my like and subscription for prompt responses to ALL of your viewers you really are amazing
I'm as slow as molasses, when it comes to Algebra and electronics, but the way you explain the steps, it seems I learn more from you than any other UA-cam channel, therefore I've subscribed. Good luck on teaching this old man, a new subject.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you haven't already watched the FAQ video I made last summer on this topic, it might be worth the time to take a look at that video as well. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
by far the most informative video, the visual demonstration is easy to follow (everything focuses correctly!) for beginners like me. Thank you so much for teaching!
This is a well done video. Thought out well and is very easy to understand. I have a Amp for a speaker system. I went into it to make a few gain adjustments and found that the Alpin light on the Amp has been on, charged, for 6 years. I did find the proper fuse that only foes on when the ignition is turned on. all is well now. TY. Never knew they had piggy back fuses ...:)
Appreciate your explanation on fuse taps ! I am currently hard wiring dash cams on a couple of cars - one has an empty slot with power, the other one - I will have to pull the fuse, add the tap & reinsert the original & accessory fuse. I had no idea about the order these fuses went in - until watching your fine tutorial. Thanks again !!!
Rather than cut a fuse in half to create a tiny test probe, why not purposely blow a fuse of any amperage you have on hand you're willing to sacrifice by shorting it on the car battery? Now you won't need to cut the fuse in half and it'll be easier to plug in because it's normal size so you can use the fuse puller to remove. Plus you only need to plug it in once. Both metal taps on the top of the fuse are now accessible for testing. Good video, Explains well how fuse taps work and how to properly hook them up.
Very good video. I don't know anything about electrical and I used a lot of points in this tutorial to install my underglow kit today. Thank you! No more Rocker Switches.
What a superb video. Great step by step explanations with detailed close ups of the procedures needed to perform this task. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This helped me.
Glad you liked it! I show an alternative approach in another fuse tap video on my channel where I use the entire fuse in the upper fuse tap fuse socket. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Perfect video! I only run into the issue of the added fuse NOT fitting into the housing before I place it into the fuse box. It just doesn’t want to go in no matter how hard I try and it’s been confirmed to be the correct one
If I understand you correctly, the fuse that plugs into the top slot of the fuse tap is not fitting (the fuse for the new accessory)? I've seen some fuse taps of lower quality that have a variation in their compliance with the size specifications for the fuse type they're to support. The only thing I could suggest is getting another fuse tap of the same type from a different company/seller. The fuse should fit snugly into the socket for it, but it should not be overly tight preventing you from inserting the fuse into the socket.
Hi i love the video. Very informative. I have a project that id like to do that i didnt know i needed to do. After buying 2 led lighted usb cables to use for powering my phones from connections in my center console. I learned that unlike the usb port, which shuts power when ignition is off.. my center consoled 12v cigarette lighter does not.. power continues to flow to the 12v cigarette lighter so im looking to somehow get my 12v cigarette lighter shut off when the ignition is off... Kinda like the usb port does. Any suggestions on how to do this specifically? Any videos thst covers this particular prroblem? I saw a video using a AAF holder and 2 fuses in an ignition switched socket and the AAF holder wire going to the the 12v unswitched socket tapped using that sliver of metal taped/shrink wrapped to a broken or blown fuse. Not sure if this is safe or correct and if it is not sure what side the metal silver tap connected to the burnt/broken fuse in the unswitched 12v socket .. the hot side or the unpowered side? Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated
You can achieve something like you want using one of two methods. Both methods require the same method of sourcing power from the fuse box fuse socket that has switched/accessory power. Sourcing Switched/Accessory Power: I would suggest finding a fuse box fuse socket with a 15 to 30 amp fuse in it already to act as the power source. You don't want to overload the fuse box fuse socket that is providing the power so make sure the original power load of the fuse box fuse socket and the additional load for the two LED lighted USB cables will not exceed the capacity of that fuse box fuse socket. Pick a fuse box fuse socket that does not provide power to a critical system or module in the car. You place the original fuse box fuse into the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap and the upper fuse socket of the fuse tap would have a fuse sized appropriately to the power required for the two LED lighted power cables Option One - Sending Power to Fuse Socket For Cigarette Lighter: You could connect the wires of the first fuse tap providing the power to a second fuse tap sending the power to the cigarette lighter socket. The power coming in the wire on the second fuse tap would be sent through the upper fuse in that fuse tap and down the left leg of the fuse tap. You would leave the bottom fuse socket of this fuse tap empty. You must identify the side of the fuse box fuse socket that does not have power and that's the side of the fuse socket you plug the left leg of the second fuse tap. Option Two - Sending Power to Fuse Socket For Cigarette Lighter: Instead of using a second fuse tap as noted in option one, you would find a male spade connector of the correct size that matches the thickness/width of the style of fuses used in the fuse box. You would connect the male spade connector to the wire coming out of the first fuse tap. You would insert that male spade connector to the side of the fuse box fuse socket for the cigarette lighter socket that does not have power. The power provided by the first fuse tap will be fed to the cigarette lighter socket.
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@@RetroCarGuy530hi sorry for the delay in responding. But based on my learning and understanding from UA-cam videos and your very precise instructions I still wasn't able to get this to work. Here is my 2023 Mazda cx5 fuse box layout. 3rd down top left is 25a 12v label. From another video I saw using 2016 Mazda cx5 the fuse box layout was somewhat similar (12v 3rd down from top left) and he selected the bottom most fuse to tap (switched fuse) this is his video. ua-cam.com/video/FRz8nWmWvp0/v-deo.htmlsi=LcldBJa8JidShO1A Since the fuse box layouts were somewhat similar (except the fuses have increased was 15a & 7.5a back in 2016 now my 2023 Mazda it's 25a & 15a) I used the same "UTILITY" fuse socket which is "SWITCHED" to insert/house the fuse tap holder with the orig 15a fuse in the bottom slot and a 25a fuse in the top slot adjacent to the wire. Ran the wire to the "UNSWITCHED" cigarette lighter fuse socket (3rd down from the top on left) and inserted into the cigarette lighter fuse socket (3rd down from top left) a male Spade connector along with a live un-blown 25a fuse into the side of the fuse socket that does not have power. My result no change.. still with the engine off ... Lighted USB phone charging cable remains illuminated and does not turn off as I would hope. I'm not sure if I followed your instructions precisely enough but it seems to me (as a non electrical guy) that the male Spade wedged into the non-powered side of the cigarette lighter fuse socket can't due what it's intended to do (get power) from the alternate fuse box socket so long as the 25a fuse in the cigarette lighter fuse box socket is live/not blown/not-broken etc. Am I missing something in your instructions? Please advise P.S. I sent you a pic of my car fusebox layout via DM on IG. And just as an FYI.. I believe I tried to follow your option#2
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Thank you so much! I want to thank you again for all your help. You were right and I have only you to thank for finding me the interior fuse box layout guide that you sent me.. that along with your comprehensive, logical, very detailed and knowledgeable instructions I was able to get the project done ! YAY. Fuse #9 was the one under the ac under the dashboard that shuts off with the ignition and #11 was the 1st rear cigarette lighter (center glove compartment) the one I was trying to fix that was UNSWITCHED. I put the tap on #9 with the hot side on the correct leg and male Spade connector on non power side of fuse #11 and it all worked. Thank you again for finding that fusebox socket guide and sending it to me. Your the best! .
Thank you for this. Was trying to install a hardwire for a dashcam in the interior fuse box of a 2022 honda accord and I have blown 2 multi block fuses when just using a test light probe to find which side the power was on. The second time I was very careful, but once I touch one side of the contact, it arced. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but I like the idea of using the half fuse for a testing.
I'm glad it helped! I created a couple of additional videos to help further/better explain this topic. Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap: ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html FAQs - How To - Adding a Fuse Tap to Your Vehicle: ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
Glad it helped. I demonstrated any even easier approach in one of my other videos. You don't have to cut any fuses for the alternative approach. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Great video and explanation 👍. Instead of cutting a fue, you can use the fuse tap without installed fues to check for power as the metal leads reachable.
I have a statement in the video description's section about using the fuse tap with a fuse installed only in the top fuse socket to check for power. 🔷Another "easier" way to test for fuse socket power and avoid using the 1/2 fuse testing approach is to use the fuse tap itself with a fuse in the top fuse socket of the fuse tap. In this approach, you test for power by inserting the fuse tap and then checking for power at the end of the red wire coming out of the fuse tap (as shown at 11:00 in the video). If you don't have power with the fuse tap in that position, rotate the fuse tap 180 degrees and test again. Once you find the correct orientation for the fuse tap in the fuse socket, you can install the original fuse from the fuse box fuse socket in the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap. If there was no fuse in the fuse box fuse socket then you should not have any fuse in the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap.
since I haven't done any auto electrical work in a while I thought I'd check out the website see if I needed any refreshingI'm glad I did because I learned a couple of things I forgot and a couple things I didn't know. Your website speaker teacher was very good and informative thank you for the information
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I've created a FAQ video and another video just this past week about the anatomy of an automotive fuse tap. Here's the playlist link for all three videos. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Your video is great. Thanks for the heads up about others ones. I thought funny after I clicked sent concerning my comment I happened to see other past comments and there wasn't one that didn't share my opinion. I've not ever visited a web site which was as good . Thanks again
Thank you. You have cleared up most of my questions but two. 1. How do you know the wiring behind the fuse socket can sufficiently carry the current for both devices? 2. If you happen to find an active empty position, again, how can you be sure you will not overload the wiring there? Thanks again. Lance
The power bar that blade style fuse connects to on the back side of the fuse socket (inside of the fuse box) are capable of carrying a decent amount of current/amperage. There are times that even the vehicle manufacturer will overtax the current draw on the power bar for a portion of a fuse box. I had a 2012 Dodge Charger SRT8 that had just that situation and FCA issued a recall to have a couple of fuses / circuits moved from one fuse bar to a different fuse bar within the fuse box. The only sure way to not exceed the available power on the fuse bar(s) within the fuse box sockets is to have a full understanding of which fuse sockets are tied to which fuse bars within the fuse box and how many amps are available on each fuse bar. That is not something that is usually available from a vehicle manufacturer. Most (if not all) vehicle manufacturers will not look favorably on the customer adding a fuse tap to any fuse socket in the vehicle. That's why I strongly suggest that the fuse socket must source its power directly from the battery or from a switched battery power source to be assured of sufficient power. It is possible that a fuse socket in a fuse box can obtain its power from a module within the vehicle (like the body control module - BCM). You don't want to select a fuse socket that is sourced from a module or supplies power to a module since those type of fuse sockets will often be sensitive to the amount of power present or consumed via that fuse socket. For example, the BCM provides power to a large number of items / accessories in the vehicle like the interior lights of the passenger compartment. There will be a fuse in a fuse box (likely inside of the passenger compartment) for those items that receive power from the BCM. Adding a fuse tap to a fuse socket that sources its power from the BCM, may place too much of a load on that circuit from the BCM and it may cause issues with the thing being powered by the BCM or the BCM itself. A fuse tap is also limited in the amount of amps it can safely supply as well since the wire gauge (awg) of the wire coming out from the fuse tap will often be limited to 10 to 15 amps max. Blade style fuses range in amp ratings from 1 amp to 30 amps. Fuse sockets that need to supply more amps are often a different style of fuse (not a blade style fuse). I have a follow up FAQ video that tries to discuss some of these questions. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html I hope that helps.
I would suggest to not use the fuel pump fuse for an amplifier (or any other accessory). Why I say that is the fuel pump is a critical system of your vehicle and I recommend against using a fuse tap in a socket that is obtaining its power from a module, sending its power to a module or critical system. This is to be a as safe as possible to not introduce a problem by adding a fuse tap to the circuits for those types of critical systems. I would also assume the amplifier might pull a non trivial amount of amps as well. In my FAQ video, I discuss more in depth about my 25 amp maximum for the original max power draw (fuse amp rating) along with the amps for the new accessory. This is the link to that FAQ video: ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
Love how you showed fitting problems and what to avoid. Pretty complete video accept that I would suggest addressing the issue of what size fuse can be used with the new accessory. As in, does the new accessory fuse need to be the same amp fuse? Or does it need to be smaller or larger or does it matter? You can't change the siz of the protection fuse so you need to make sure you're not underprotecting one or the other, right?
@Chris the amp ratings of the fuses for a fuse tap can turn into a debate of religious proportions. My point of view is that a fuse tap is an okay way to source power for lower power demanding devices/accessories. If the device requires 10 or more amps, I usually use a relay to provide the power to the new accessory with the relay sourcing its power directly from the battery with an inline fuse and proper wire gauge (awg) to support the amp load. The installation method I show in this video is where the left leg of the fuse tap gets the power from the fuse box fuse socket. That is the "in parallel" approach meaning two power circuits are created by the fuse tap and the wiring up to the fuse box must be able to provide the amount of amperage that both circuits require. It is not always easy to know exactly how the fuse box fuse socket is supplied its power (wire gauge, bus bar, etc). That's why I only use fuse taps for low amp devices and in most cases my use of fuse taps is limited to adding dash cameras or radar detectors since those use under 3 amps most of the time. The "safest" approach is to actually install the fuse tap with power going up the right leg of the fuse tap. This is the "in series" approach of using the fuse tap. The new accessory and the original circuit draw power through the lower fuse in the fuse tap. If the combined load is larger than the original fuse, the lower fuse will blow. The problem can be that the manner in which the fuse box fuse socket is powered may be able to handle the load for both circuits, but the wiring from the fuse box to the original device may not be able to handle the load above the original fuse's amp rating and that's why the original fuse was sized at that specific amperage rating. Again, without a lot of detailed knowledge of the circuit it's hard for the average vehicle owner to make an informed decision on what is the actual best way to use a fuse tap. That's why I limit the amount of amps to below 10 amps for any fuse tap powered device, but even then the same questions about overloading are present especially as you get closer to 10 amps for the new device/accessory. In my opinion, the highest level of safety is to power the new device/accessory with a power feed taken directly from the vehicle's battery with an inline fuse and wire gauge to support the power demands of the new device/accessory. If the new device/accessory requires switched power, you can locate a fuse socket in the fuse box that has switched power and use a fuse tap to provide power to the control side of a relay. The relay's control circuit only draws 100 to 150 milliamps (0.1 to 0.15 amps) so virtually any fuse socket in the fuse box can handle that small amount of extra load for the control side of the relay. A 4-terminal relay (terminals: 30 = battery power, 87 = power to new device, 85/86 power/ground for control side of relay) is usually what I use for this approach. I use this approach in a recent video where I add a high power demanding dashcam battery pack to my vehicle. ua-cam.com/video/Joa0fiKZY-o/v-deo.html
Great info on this video. many thanks! Question: Are there any available tapping fixtures for J-case and M-case cartridge female terminal fuses? Thanks again.
I have not come across any J-Case or M-Case fuse taps. If the accessory's power demands are beyond that of a blade style fuse and fuse tap, then you might consider using a blade fuse tap to supply the control circuit power to a relay that would then supply power of sufficient amperage to the accessory.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks so much for your quick response. I'm gonna try to AC compressor relay. Seems all fuse points are all time hot in my truck (2017 F150 lariat). Haven't tried w relays so far but i see no other option. Thanks again.
Excellent video. Thank you. Clear and concise instructions and extremely informative. I would've loved you to explain the joining the wires of a device to the fuse tap (cb radio) also I hope you have a video on using multimeters. I'm gonna go look for one now. Also you got yourself a new subscriber 👍
The fuse taps often come with crimp style butt connectors that you would strip the wire on the accessory side of the connection and insert and crimp the butt connector to get a firm grip on the wire. If no crimp butt connector is present, I will often solder the wires together use some wire shrink wrap or electrical tape to seal/protect the connection.
Excellent information and product. I want to hard wire my trailer camera monitor as well as my dash cam because, who the heck still uses cigarette lighters for power except to charge our cells. Thank you for sharing
Good Vid but, the one question to ask is what is the amp value behind the panel that feeds that circuit ...for light stuff you'll be ok, but if you want to supply a sub panel you need 30A and i don't think any of these taps will handle more than 10A....newer vehicles TIPMs have sensitive solid state boards in the PDP making issues worse. I like to always in stall 2 fused sub panels one full/hot and one run/Acc, this makes future add-ons a breeze, but it needs to be done properly.
Glad it helped! I have two other videos related to automotive blade style fuse taps that may give you more info on this topic. I have a frequently asked questions video based on this video. *FAQs - How To - Adding a Fuse Tap to Your Vehicle* : ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html I recently created a video that explains how the power is routed in a blade style fuse tap and it shows an easier method to test which side of the fuse box fuse socket provides power. *Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap* : ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Thank you for the informative video. I have one dumb question...where is your black probe connected from your multimeter when testing for available power?
You connect the black probe / ground connector to an available ground point or a bolt / screw connected to the body of the vehicle or bare piece of metal and that should give you a grounding point for the test.
Additional video on this topic. *Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap* ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
🔷Most fuse taps come with a 16 awg or 14 awg wire (smaller wire awg number is a bigger wire which can carry more current) to supply power to the new accessory. The awg wire size / gauge will be a limiting factor as to the max amperage that can be supplied safely via this fuse tap. In most cases, this means a 10 amp fuse is likely to be the maximum fuse amp rating you can use for the new accessory. If the wire from the fuse tap is quite long, the maximum fuse amp rating may be reduced even further.
🔷If you need to add a high amp draw power circuit to supply power to a new accessory, you may want to consider using a fuse tap to supply power to a switched power relay (with a fuse in the relay or in the other power circuit where the relay gets the power for the new accessory). The fuse tap power (switched power or switched with RAP) can supply power to the control side of the new relay. When the fuse tap supplies power to the relay, the relay closes the circuit and the relay then supplies power to the new accessory from the power source the relay is connected to with an appropriately sized fuse and wire awg being used for that power circuit.
🔷At 5:43 in the video I mentioned that you need to have the ignition switch in the appropriate position to make sure it provides the required power type (switched, switched with RAP or unswitched). To find a switched power fuse socket, you must start off with the ignition switch off and locate the candidate fuse sockets that don't have power, then turn on the ignition switch to see if the fuse socket does receive power at that point. If you need a switched power with RAP capabilities fuse socket, you would need to turn off the ignition switch leaving the retained accessory power feature still active and then test the fuse socket again to make sure it was providing that type of power.
Thank you for your suggestions, they are very helpful.. Not only BlackVue B-124X battery pack does not provide Low-profile Mini fuse taps with the battery , but also in the user manual does not talk about as to what gauge of low profile mini fuse tap one should buy separately...
There are different websites selling low profile mini fuse taps, but all of them have different awg...
for example:
BlackVue provided fuse taps(Ato, Micro2 & Mini) have this awg: 14awg 600v 1015 105'c awm
other seller #1: 16awg 600v 1015 105'c awm (low profile mini fuse taps)
other seller #2: 18awg 600v 1015 105'c awm (low profile mini fuse taps)
Gauge - depicts the amounts of load/current a wire can handle safely..
could you tell me, what gauge of a low profile mini fuse tap i should get....out of these three given below
14 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 15-18 amps
16 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 10-13 amps
18 gauge fuse tap wire can safely transmit 7-10 amps
In my vehicle's interior fuse box, these are the switched accessory fuses I found.. would you please help locating a fuse that is not critical to the power... can't figure out which one is the right one..
1) [20A - WIP RR(RearWIndowWiper)], 2) [10A-EPS IG],
3) [15A-WASHER RR(RearWindowWasher)], 4) [20A-WASHER(WinshieldWasher)],
5) [10A-ECU IG NO.3], 6) [10A-HTR-IG(AirConditionSystem)],
7) [7.5A-GUAGE NO.2(Guages&Meters,MultiInformationSystem)],
8) [15A- S-HTR FL(SeatHeaterLeftSide)], 9) [15A- S-HTR FR(SeatHeaterRightSide)],
10) [15A- P/VENT(PowerQuarterWindows)],
11) [7.5A- WIP ECU(WindshieldWiper&RearWindowWiper)],
12) [15A- STRG HTR],
Thank You for all your help..
The wire gauge (awg) governs two factors - amperage it can carry for a particular distance. I would recommend getting the lowest awg value possible. A lower awg number is a thicker wire that can handle higher current loads. Of the three mentioned, the 14 awg can carry the most current/amps for the longest distance.
The fuse sockets you listed have a few potential sockets that can be used. Stay away from any fuse socket that supplies power to an "... ECU". The "EPS IG" fuse appears to be for the electric power steering so stay away from that one. Any of the "SeatHeater....." fuse sockets might be a fuse socket that can be used. The "STRG HTR" fuse socket looks like a heated steering wheel so it too is a decent candidate. All of the heater fuse sockets have a 15A fuse in them so the max fuse I would recommend is a 15 amp fuse for the new accessory (B-124X). This is assuming there are no empty fuse sockets available in the fuse box that have switched power.
@@RetroCarGuy530sorry for bugging you with questions... Just noticed that I Do not have Heated Seats in my vehicle, but there are already fuses(15A fuse in each slots) for them in my interior fuse box. just wondering why these fuses r there when my cloth seats have no such options or buttons to turn them on on my dashboard/instrument panel..
As per your suggestion and as far as the orientation of fuse taps go, S-HTR FL & S-HTR FR are both viable candidate for tapping fuses into them without blocking fuse box cover in the way...
Since i have heated seat fuses 15A each & they are not operational (No Current Draw).. so Should I go with 15A fuse(Bottom Slot of the fuse tap) WITH 10A? OR 15A? or 20A? (Top Slot of the fuse taps)... Thank You!!
Sorry I didn't reply sooner, UA-cam doesn't present replies to comments in a manner that is easy to see.
If there is a fuse in the fuse socket, it would suggest that something is being powered by the power from that fuse. It is certainly possible that those fuses/fuse sockets are leftovers from a version of that vehicle with the seat heaters.
The "safest" approach would be to put the 15A fuse in the bottom slot of the fuse tap and up to a 10A fuse for the new accessory powered by the fuse tap. I like to limit the max draw from a blade fuse style fuse socket to 25 amps (some say 30A is ok).
If you're 100 percent sure there is nothing being powered by the pre-existing 15A fuse or fuses, you could simply leave the 15A fuse out of the bottom socket of the fuse tap and you could in theory put up to a 20A fuse in the top slot (if the fuse tap and other wiring to the accessory will support 20 amps).
There are three main factors that go into the max fuse amperage size for the new accessory (amperage already supplied by the fuse socket, wire gauge of fuse tap and wiring to the new accessory including its ground wiring and the length of the wiring used for the new accessory). If you haven't watched my FAQ video I created in the past week or so, you might want to check that out where I try to identify the questions / answers that one needs to figure out when trying to size the max fuse amperage size for a fuse tap. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
I hope this answers your questions.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thank you for going extra mile in helping people... very informative youtube video....
Finally someone who knows what they're talking about. All the other videos just tell you to slap the add a circuit in.
I watched about 6 videos trying to figure this out before coming here, yours is the one i needed, thank you.
Was about to post exactly this. Thank you!
DITTO! I am trying to wire up a dash cam on my bike and man oh man did this solve my problems and answer my questions!! Thank you so much good sir
I watched 1 week of videos, and this video does explains it the best!
You really explain how this is done. This is the best video I have seen so far. Others speed through it and don't explain and just waste your time.
This is literally the only video I could find that actually left me feeling confident by the end. The density of knowledge here spares no expense to the thoroughness of it. Thank you, you got me over a major hurdle here.
YES, this is the video!
To all of the people who had already watched several other tutorials on fuse tapping and still have questions.
This video will answer all of them👍
I have watched dozens of videos about fuse taps. Yours is the most concise, logical and easy to understand. Thank you for posting this excellent presentation.
Damn, finally. I’ve been trying to figure out for days what to do with the lower portion of the fuse tap, since the fuse box socket had no original fuse. Thanks man, great work!
I know this video is a year old now but I wanted to say thank you. I've hardwired many things in the past but never with a "tap a fuse". I hardwired a dash cam with motion sensor and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I had one of the "tap a fuse" facing a different direction than the other for wire tidiness reasons. After seeing this video I slapped my forehead. Duh of course the power is only coming from one side or the fuses would be pointless. Thank you for saving my sanity.
Amazing video. I think most of people (me included) thought the add-a-fuse could go either way while orientation is key. Otherwise you will have both devices on the lower fuse shoulders and likely to blow. My tip to check the orientation (might be easier). Plug the add-a-fuse ONLY with the top fuse inserted (leave the bottom slot empty). Plug it in. If you have 12 output from the red cable you are good. Otherwise you need to twist the add-a-fuse upside down. Once orientation is correct add the bottom fuse if needed. Should make sense.
This has come up a few times in the comments since I released this video in Dec 2019. I totally agree with your recommendation. I've updated the video's description section with this approach and there's a brief demonstration of this method at 11:00 in the video where I'm testing for power, but that was after testing with the 1/2 fuse. Thanks for the suggestion!
Yup. Easy way to determine which way to plug in.
I too watched multiple videos and multiple web sites with no answer to my questions. THANK YOU , THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!
My questions were:
1. Which side is the hot side on a fuse tap. Others glossed over it. You were very precise with pictures and typed out what is what.
2. If I could use only one fuse for the cb add on I wanted to use.
3. That I could use on open slot. And how to use it.
Thanks again!
Thanks for explaining the difference between tapping into a fuse that’s already there and tapping into a open slot that may have power and how not to put a fuse in the bottom of using a open slot. I couldn’t really find information on that.
Glad it helped
Yeah, I came here looking for the very same information. Thank you for the useful video.
Excellent video, great instruction. Concise and complete. You obviously not only know your craft but also how to teach it. I wish more did.
This was so much clearer than any diagram or video I could find. I now feel confident I can install my dash cam and have it wired properly for safety. Thank you.
I'm glad it helped. There are a couple of different trains of thought on this topic of using a fuse tap to obtain power for a new device/accessory. What I demonstrate in this video is the "in parallel" approach of routing the power through the fuse tap. The power obtained from the fuse box fuse socket is directly routed to both the lower and upper fuse sockets in the fuse tap.
There's another approach which would be labeled "in series" power routing approach. That's where the power from the fuse box fuse socket goes up the right leg of the fuse tap, through the lower fuse in the fuse tap and then down the left leg of the fuse tap to the original fuse box fuse socket and it also goes then up to the fuse tap's upper fuse socket. All of the power load runs through the lower fuse in the fuse tap. Which approach is best to use will result in spirited discussion/debates. The "in series" power routing method can be seen as the absolute safest approach, but it may also lead to blowing the original fuse in the lower fuse tap fuse socket since both power loads are being run through the lower fuse.
For dash cameras, radar detectors and similar power demanding devices (usually 2 amps and very often dash cameras use less than 1 amp), the "in parallel" power routing approach is very safe. It will only be adding 2 or often less than 1 amp to the circuit that is supplying the power to the fuse box fuse socket.
Thanks for checking out this video!
I have another video that tries to explain the "in parallel" approach a little more in depth. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Absolutely the best tutorial video about hardwiring a dash camera. Saved me a lot of time and more importantly not burning up my device. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
I've been collecting info from all sorts of fuse tap install info vids so I can make my own "complete" video to share with a friend.
You just took care of that here. I need to do nothing more. I'm sending your video right over to him.
Thank you, sir.
I've never used a fuse tap and just assumed you would just plug it in and go but I never thought about orienting it for the power to always go through the fuse for the fuse to do its job. Makes perfect sense. I'm glad I watched this video.
Honestly that was such a well explained video
Finally a professional, all of the other videos they’ll mention “ I’m no mechanic and I’m no electrician”
Finally someone who explained it where I can understand and went into depth. Thanks.
I'm glad it was helpful!
So well done. Makes the entire process so much easier to understand. Thank you Sir!
You're very welcome!
You addressed EVERY question I had as I prepare to add accessories to my Jeep. Thank you.
Super helpful explanation of how to determine which side of the fuse slot has 12v to make sure the tap is oriented correctly. I also learned that fuses have the exposed metal on too for probing. I have never noticed that before!
Glad it helped
Best video about this and it’s not even close! You’ve earned my like and subscription for prompt responses to ALL of your viewers you really are amazing
Thank you so much!
I'm as slow as molasses, when it comes to Algebra and electronics, but the way you explain the steps, it seems I learn more from you than any other UA-cam channel, therefore I've subscribed. Good luck on teaching this old man, a new subject.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you haven't already watched the FAQ video I made last summer on this topic, it might be worth the time to take a look at that video as well. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
FINALLY! Someone explained it and detailed it so I can understand! Thank you!
Most helpful comprehensive video for my hardwire project!
Glad you liked it!
The best description and detailed explanation I have found to add an accessory switch for my vehicle. TY
Awesome, thank you!
Finally someone who knows how to give a presentation
This is far and away the best video on YT for this subject - well done!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
by far the most informative video, the visual demonstration is easy to follow (everything focuses correctly!) for beginners like me. Thank you so much for teaching!
Very good. Very professional. Visually steady and clear. Thanks!
This is a well done video. Thought out well and is very easy to understand. I have a Amp for a speaker system.
I went into it to make a few gain adjustments and found that the Alpin light on the Amp has been on, charged, for 6 years.
I did find the proper fuse that only foes on when the ignition is turned on. all is well now. TY. Never knew they had piggy back fuses ...:)
Thanks! I'm glad you found the information helpful in solving your amp's power issue.
This is the best tutorial l've ever seen on UA-cam.
Thank You! After watching the product I am installing and reading reviews, your video tied it all together
the best video on youtube about fuse tap, even for me who doesn't really understand english. thank you very much !
You are welcome!
Appreciate your explanation on fuse taps ! I am currently hard wiring dash cams on a couple
of cars - one has an empty slot with power, the other one - I will have to pull the fuse, add the tap & reinsert
the original & accessory fuse. I had no idea about the order these fuses went in - until watching your fine
tutorial. Thanks again !!!
Thanks a lot, some people are masters of teachings, you are one of them!!
So nice of you to say that.
The best tutorial regarding the fuse tapping ! Thanks a lot 🙏
Absolutely amazing explanation. Very detailed. Appreciate your help!
Rather than cut a fuse in half to create a tiny test probe, why not purposely blow a fuse of any amperage you have on hand you're willing to sacrifice by shorting it on the car battery? Now you won't need to cut the fuse in half and it'll be easier to plug in because it's normal size so you can use the fuse puller to remove. Plus you only need to plug it in once. Both metal taps on the top of the fuse are now accessible for testing. Good video, Explains well how fuse taps work and how to properly hook them up.
Excellent and informative and very fine details ... what a guy, awesome content like Scotty but with much less shouting 😂
Good video. I appreciate the accurate language, definitions, and clarity.
Very good video. I don't know anything about electrical and I used a lot of points in this tutorial to install my underglow kit today. Thank you! No more Rocker Switches.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for the explanation is very useful especially for me who often use fuse tabs like this in the work of a vehicle ...
Glad it helped
Awwesome video, this is the best one on the subject! fuse taps!
THE BEST VIDEO ON UA-cam FOR ADD A FUSE INFO!!!! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Thank you sir. Why this wasn't the first recommend video I'm not sure. You answered everything clear and concisely.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir just did my installation and became great because of you!!!
Glad I could help
What a superb video. Great step by step explanations with detailed close ups of the procedures needed to perform this task. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This helped me.
excellent! complete and concise info on what i'm trying to work on. that half a fuse trick is good.
Glad you liked it! I show an alternative approach in another fuse tap video on my channel where I use the entire fuse in the upper fuse tap fuse socket. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Excellent video. Lots of videos out there don't tell you that it matters which way round the fuse tap is plugged in.
superb , really well explained, loving it
After overwhelmed videos I watched before I got here took a break and I came back to this one and totally understood the leguage he is really good
I'm glad you found the video helpful!
Great tip on cutting the fuse in half so the multimeter can get a read.
BEST FUSE TAPE VIDEO IN UA-cam!
Perfect video! I only run into the issue of the added fuse NOT fitting into the housing before I place it into the fuse box. It just doesn’t want to go in no matter how hard I try and it’s been confirmed to be the correct one
If I understand you correctly, the fuse that plugs into the top slot of the fuse tap is not fitting (the fuse for the new accessory)? I've seen some fuse taps of lower quality that have a variation in their compliance with the size specifications for the fuse type they're to support. The only thing I could suggest is getting another fuse tap of the same type from a different company/seller. The fuse should fit snugly into the socket for it, but it should not be overly tight preventing you from inserting the fuse into the socket.
Thank you for this video, after many others I finally get it!
Great to hear!
Hi i love the video. Very informative. I have a project that id like to do that i didnt know i needed to do. After buying 2 led lighted usb cables to use for powering my phones from connections in my center console. I learned that unlike the usb port, which shuts power when ignition is off.. my center consoled 12v cigarette lighter does not.. power continues to flow to the 12v cigarette lighter so im looking to somehow get my 12v cigarette lighter shut off when the ignition is off... Kinda like the usb port does. Any suggestions on how to do this specifically? Any videos thst covers this particular prroblem? I saw a video using a AAF holder and 2 fuses in an ignition switched socket and the AAF holder wire going to the the 12v unswitched socket tapped using that sliver of metal taped/shrink wrapped to a broken or blown fuse. Not sure if this is safe or correct and if it is not sure what side the metal silver tap connected to the burnt/broken fuse in the unswitched 12v socket .. the hot side or the unpowered side? Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated
You can achieve something like you want using one of two methods. Both methods require the same method of sourcing power from the fuse box fuse socket that has switched/accessory power.
Sourcing Switched/Accessory Power:
I would suggest finding a fuse box fuse socket with a 15 to 30 amp fuse in it already to act as the power source. You don't want to overload the fuse box fuse socket that is providing the power so make sure the original power load of the fuse box fuse socket and the additional load for the two LED lighted USB cables will not exceed the capacity of that fuse box fuse socket. Pick a fuse box fuse socket that does not provide power to a critical system or module in the car. You place the original fuse box fuse into the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap and the upper fuse socket of the fuse tap would have a fuse sized appropriately to the power required for the two LED lighted power cables
Option One - Sending Power to Fuse Socket For Cigarette Lighter:
You could connect the wires of the first fuse tap providing the power to a second fuse tap sending the power to the cigarette lighter socket. The power coming in the wire on the second fuse tap would be sent through the upper fuse in that fuse tap and down the left leg of the fuse tap. You would leave the bottom fuse socket of this fuse tap empty. You must identify the side of the fuse box fuse socket that does not have power and that's the side of the fuse socket you plug the left leg of the second fuse tap.
Option Two - Sending Power to Fuse Socket For Cigarette Lighter:
Instead of using a second fuse tap as noted in option one, you would find a male spade connector of the correct size that matches the thickness/width of the style of fuses used in the fuse box. You would connect the male spade connector to the wire coming out of the first fuse tap. You would insert that male spade connector to the side of the fuse box fuse socket for the cigarette lighter socket that does not have power. The power provided by the first fuse tap will be fed to the cigarette lighter socket.
@@RetroCarGuy530hi sorry for the delay in responding. But based on my learning and understanding from UA-cam videos and your very precise instructions I still wasn't able to get this to work. Here is my 2023 Mazda cx5 fuse box layout. 3rd down top left is 25a 12v label. From another video I saw using 2016 Mazda cx5 the fuse box layout was somewhat similar (12v 3rd down from top left) and he selected the bottom most fuse to tap (switched fuse) this is his video. ua-cam.com/video/FRz8nWmWvp0/v-deo.htmlsi=LcldBJa8JidShO1A
Since the fuse box layouts were somewhat similar (except the fuses have increased was 15a & 7.5a back in 2016 now my 2023 Mazda it's 25a & 15a) I used the same "UTILITY" fuse socket which is "SWITCHED" to insert/house the fuse tap holder with the orig 15a fuse in the bottom slot and a 25a fuse in the top slot adjacent to the wire. Ran the wire to the "UNSWITCHED" cigarette lighter fuse socket (3rd down from the top on left) and inserted into the cigarette lighter fuse socket (3rd down from top left) a male Spade connector along with a live un-blown 25a fuse into the side of the fuse socket that does not have power. My result no change.. still with the engine off ... Lighted USB phone charging cable remains illuminated and does not turn off as I would hope. I'm not sure if I followed your instructions precisely enough but it seems to me (as a non electrical guy) that the male Spade wedged into the non-powered side of the cigarette lighter fuse socket can't due what it's intended to do (get power) from the alternate fuse box socket so long as the 25a fuse in the cigarette lighter fuse box socket is live/not blown/not-broken etc. Am I missing something in your instructions? Please advise
P.S. I sent you a pic of my car fusebox layout via DM on IG. And just as an FYI.. I believe I tried to follow your option#2
Thank you so much! I want to thank you again for all your help. You were right and I have only you to thank for finding me the interior fuse box layout guide that you sent me.. that along with your comprehensive, logical, very detailed and knowledgeable instructions I was able to get the project done ! YAY. Fuse #9 was the one under the ac under the dashboard that shuts off with the ignition and #11 was the 1st rear cigarette lighter (center glove compartment) the one I was trying to fix that was UNSWITCHED. I put the tap on #9 with the hot side on the correct leg and male Spade connector on non power side of fuse #11 and it all worked. Thank you again for finding that fusebox socket guide and sending it to me. Your the best! .
Thank you for this. Was trying to install a hardwire for a dashcam in the interior fuse box of a 2022 honda accord and I have blown 2 multi block fuses when just using a test light probe to find which side the power was on. The second time I was very careful, but once I touch one side of the contact, it arced. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but I like the idea of using the half fuse for a testing.
Thank you for this great video, I was so lost about how add on fuse work.
I'm glad it helped! I created a couple of additional videos to help further/better explain this topic.
Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap: ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
FAQs - How To - Adding a Fuse Tap to Your Vehicle: ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
A great example of testing and procedure. Hi from England 👍👍
Thank you so much for your explanation, and cutting the fuse in half that was very smart, now I was able to get the connection right.👍
Glad it helped. I demonstrated any even easier approach in one of my other videos. You don't have to cut any fuses for the alternative approach. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Great video and explanation 👍.
Instead of cutting a fue, you can use the fuse tap without installed fues to check for power as the metal leads reachable.
I have a statement in the video description's section about using the fuse tap with a fuse installed only in the top fuse socket to check for power.
🔷Another "easier" way to test for fuse socket power and avoid using the 1/2 fuse testing approach is to use the fuse tap itself with a fuse in the top fuse socket of the fuse tap. In this approach, you test for power by inserting the fuse tap and then checking for power at the end of the red wire coming out of the fuse tap (as shown at 11:00 in the video). If you don't have power with the fuse tap in that position, rotate the fuse tap 180 degrees and test again. Once you find the correct orientation for the fuse tap in the fuse socket, you can install the original fuse from the fuse box fuse socket in the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap. If there was no fuse in the fuse box fuse socket then you should not have any fuse in the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap.
@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks a lot for the info. In fact, this idea is much better.
Great Work 👍.
since I haven't done any auto electrical work in a while I thought I'd check out the website see if I needed any refreshingI'm glad I did because I learned a couple of things I forgot and a couple things I didn't know. Your website speaker teacher was very good and informative thank you for the information
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I've created a FAQ video and another video just this past week about the anatomy of an automotive fuse tap. Here's the playlist link for all three videos.
ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Your video is great. Thanks for the heads up about others ones. I thought funny after I clicked sent concerning my comment I happened to see other past comments and there wasn't one that didn't share my opinion. I've not ever visited a web site which was as good . Thanks again
Thanks for explaining it in a very simple term which I can understand. Excellent Video. A+
Glad it was helpful. Live long and prosper!
Clear and concise...well done and keep up the good work.
Greetings from England
Excellent video and the best and direct explanations I've seen on this topic.
Thank you for explaining so anyone can do it! Very informative!
Thank you. You have cleared up most of my questions but two. 1. How do you know the wiring behind the fuse socket can sufficiently carry the current for both devices? 2. If you happen to find an active empty position, again, how can you be sure you will not overload the wiring there? Thanks again. Lance
The power bar that blade style fuse connects to on the back side of the fuse socket (inside of the fuse box) are capable of carrying a decent amount of current/amperage. There are times that even the vehicle manufacturer will overtax the current draw on the power bar for a portion of a fuse box. I had a 2012 Dodge Charger SRT8 that had just that situation and FCA issued a recall to have a couple of fuses / circuits moved from one fuse bar to a different fuse bar within the fuse box. The only sure way to not exceed the available power on the fuse bar(s) within the fuse box sockets is to have a full understanding of which fuse sockets are tied to which fuse bars within the fuse box and how many amps are available on each fuse bar. That is not something that is usually available from a vehicle manufacturer. Most (if not all) vehicle manufacturers will not look favorably on the customer adding a fuse tap to any fuse socket in the vehicle.
That's why I strongly suggest that the fuse socket must source its power directly from the battery or from a switched battery power source to be assured of sufficient power. It is possible that a fuse socket in a fuse box can obtain its power from a module within the vehicle (like the body control module - BCM). You don't want to select a fuse socket that is sourced from a module or supplies power to a module since those type of fuse sockets will often be sensitive to the amount of power present or consumed via that fuse socket. For example, the BCM provides power to a large number of items / accessories in the vehicle like the interior lights of the passenger compartment. There will be a fuse in a fuse box (likely inside of the passenger compartment) for those items that receive power from the BCM. Adding a fuse tap to a fuse socket that sources its power from the BCM, may place too much of a load on that circuit from the BCM and it may cause issues with the thing being powered by the BCM or the BCM itself.
A fuse tap is also limited in the amount of amps it can safely supply as well since the wire gauge (awg) of the wire coming out from the fuse tap will often be limited to 10 to 15 amps max. Blade style fuses range in amp ratings from 1 amp to 30 amps. Fuse sockets that need to supply more amps are often a different style of fuse (not a blade style fuse).
I have a follow up FAQ video that tries to discuss some of these questions. ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
I hope that helps.
After installing a fuse tap do you ground the black wire for your accessory off to the car?
Yes you do!
@@RetroCarGuy530 thank you 😊👍
The best explanation video I've seen on UA-cam. I subscribed thank you
Thanks for taking the time to make this great video.
Great and Fantastic Tutorial. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. Helped a lot. USB charger installed properly and working.
Great video. Exactly what I needed to learn.
Great to hear!
Really good video, simple, straight forward and explanatory, nice job.
Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful.
thanks. most informative out of several videos I have seen
Crystal clear and to the point. Many thanks for you time and effort
Glad you liked it
terrific video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
GREAT video!!
Quick question.. can i tap into my fuel pump fuse to 'tap' into it with my aftermarket amplifier?
I would suggest to not use the fuel pump fuse for an amplifier (or any other accessory). Why I say that is the fuel pump is a critical system of your vehicle and I recommend against using a fuse tap in a socket that is obtaining its power from a module, sending its power to a module or critical system. This is to be a as safe as possible to not introduce a problem by adding a fuse tap to the circuits for those types of critical systems.
I would also assume the amplifier might pull a non trivial amount of amps as well. In my FAQ video, I discuss more in depth about my 25 amp maximum for the original max power draw (fuse amp rating) along with the amps for the new accessory. This is the link to that FAQ video: ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
Love how you showed fitting problems and what to avoid. Pretty complete video accept that I would suggest addressing the issue of what size fuse can be used with the new accessory. As in, does the new accessory fuse need to be the same amp fuse? Or does it need to be smaller or larger or does it matter? You can't change the siz of the protection fuse so you need to make sure you're not underprotecting one or the other, right?
@Chris the amp ratings of the fuses for a fuse tap can turn into a debate of religious proportions.
My point of view is that a fuse tap is an okay way to source power for lower power demanding devices/accessories. If the device requires 10 or more amps, I usually use a relay to provide the power to the new accessory with the relay sourcing its power directly from the battery with an inline fuse and proper wire gauge (awg) to support the amp load.
The installation method I show in this video is where the left leg of the fuse tap gets the power from the fuse box fuse socket. That is the "in parallel" approach meaning two power circuits are created by the fuse tap and the wiring up to the fuse box must be able to provide the amount of amperage that both circuits require. It is not always easy to know exactly how the fuse box fuse socket is supplied its power (wire gauge, bus bar, etc). That's why I only use fuse taps for low amp devices and in most cases my use of fuse taps is limited to adding dash cameras or radar detectors since those use under 3 amps most of the time.
The "safest" approach is to actually install the fuse tap with power going up the right leg of the fuse tap. This is the "in series" approach of using the fuse tap. The new accessory and the original circuit draw power through the lower fuse in the fuse tap. If the combined load is larger than the original fuse, the lower fuse will blow. The problem can be that the manner in which the fuse box fuse socket is powered may be able to handle the load for both circuits, but the wiring from the fuse box to the original device may not be able to handle the load above the original fuse's amp rating and that's why the original fuse was sized at that specific amperage rating. Again, without a lot of detailed knowledge of the circuit it's hard for the average vehicle owner to make an informed decision on what is the actual best way to use a fuse tap. That's why I limit the amount of amps to below 10 amps for any fuse tap powered device, but even then the same questions about overloading are present especially as you get closer to 10 amps for the new device/accessory.
In my opinion, the highest level of safety is to power the new device/accessory with a power feed taken directly from the vehicle's battery with an inline fuse and wire gauge to support the power demands of the new device/accessory. If the new device/accessory requires switched power, you can locate a fuse socket in the fuse box that has switched power and use a fuse tap to provide power to the control side of a relay. The relay's control circuit only draws 100 to 150 milliamps (0.1 to 0.15 amps) so virtually any fuse socket in the fuse box can handle that small amount of extra load for the control side of the relay. A 4-terminal relay (terminals: 30 = battery power, 87 = power to new device, 85/86 power/ground for control side of relay) is usually what I use for this approach. I use this approach in a recent video where I add a high power demanding dashcam battery pack to my vehicle. ua-cam.com/video/Joa0fiKZY-o/v-deo.html
Excellent video with the most important info explained properly.
Much appreciated!
Very well explained,thanks you very much and happy new year.
Awesome video! thank you for sharing your knowledge to all of us.
The best break down ever.
Best video yet , thank you !
Gr8 video, just subscribed.
Finally i found a video that expains it, I was so confused, now I am educated.
Thanks
This really clarified a few things. Thank you!
Beautifully done, thanks bru!
Nice detailed video with clear instructions....thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Great info on this video. many thanks! Question: Are there any available tapping fixtures for J-case and M-case cartridge female terminal fuses? Thanks again.
I have not come across any J-Case or M-Case fuse taps. If the accessory's power demands are beyond that of a blade style fuse and fuse tap, then you might consider using a blade fuse tap to supply the control circuit power to a relay that would then supply power of sufficient amperage to the accessory.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks so much for your quick response. I'm gonna try to AC compressor relay. Seems all fuse points are all time hot in my truck (2017 F150 lariat). Haven't tried w relays so far but i see no other option. Thanks again.
Excellent! I learned a lot from this video. Thanks.
Very informative! Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Thank you. Clear and concise instructions and extremely informative. I would've loved you to explain the joining the wires of a device to the fuse tap (cb radio) also I hope you have a video on using multimeters. I'm gonna go look for one now. Also you got yourself a new subscriber 👍
The fuse taps often come with crimp style butt connectors that you would strip the wire on the accessory side of the connection and insert and crimp the butt connector to get a firm grip on the wire. If no crimp butt connector is present, I will often solder the wires together use some wire shrink wrap or electrical tape to seal/protect the connection.
Excellent information and product. I want to hard wire my trailer camera monitor as well as my dash cam because, who the heck still uses cigarette lighters for power except to charge our cells. Thank you for sharing
Good Vid but, the one question to ask is what is the amp value behind the panel that feeds that circuit ...for light stuff you'll be ok, but if you want to supply a sub panel you need 30A and i don't think any of these taps will handle more than 10A....newer vehicles TIPMs have sensitive solid state boards in the PDP making issues worse.
I like to always in stall 2 fused sub panels one full/hot and one run/Acc, this makes future add-ons a breeze, but it needs to be done properly.
excellent video easy understanding . saved my time . appreciated you time and effort
I'm glad you found it to be helpful!
Very professional, thanks for your video. Stay safe 👍🇬🇧
Thanks 👍
Thanks so much for the clear explanation, exactly what I needed to fuse tap a reversing camera for our van!
Glad it helped!
I have two other videos related to automotive blade style fuse taps that may give you more info on this topic.
I have a frequently asked questions video based on this video.
*FAQs - How To - Adding a Fuse Tap to Your Vehicle* : ua-cam.com/video/DnZ5wb_A5vE/v-deo.html
I recently created a video that explains how the power is routed in a blade style fuse tap and it shows an easier method to test which side of the fuse box fuse socket provides power.
*Anatomy of An Automotive Fuse Tap* : ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html
Thank you for the informative video. I have one dumb question...where is your black probe connected from your multimeter when testing for available power?
You connect the black probe / ground connector to an available ground point or a bolt / screw connected to the body of the vehicle or bare piece of metal and that should give you a grounding point for the test.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks for the quick reply!
UA-cam needs video's like this. To the point and very informative. Thank you! This is exactly what I needed.