If I've learned anything being a FCA Dealer Tech. It's that a wiring issue is a wiring issue, may seem completly unrelated and irrelevent, but it can cause completly irrational codes and actions.
I’m using J-Scan full time in my jeep instead of a tazer and i love it! It’s so handy to have , just connect and go! And for around 50$ you can’t beat it!
I have a one ton swapped gladiator, with my lockers hard wired, with antirocks. I used a taxer to turn off all my electronics for the tcase, sway bar, lockers on my rubicon.
I know this can be frustrating. Had my share of issues. My Jl I run rcv's no fad Tazer original , I hooked lockers to my aux switches with factory replacement offered harnesses. Lockers any time, front or rear, any speed. The only thing that worries me is the dreaded locker sensor issue. Planning on the tazer harness for that. Great info. Thanks
Thanks, I have only 2000 miles on my Gladiator Rubicon and I despise the the sway-bar nanny, and that I can't use the rear locker in 4 high, and in 4 low the lockers are slow.
FWIW, one of our tour Jeeps, a JKUR, went electro-nuts on the dash, virtually all warning lights on or flashing, stopped charging the battery, etc. Turned out to be a broken electric sway bar connector housing had let water in, shorted, took out the TIPM. The sway bar circuit had been shut off years ago but was still in circuit. Replaced the TIPM and shut off the sway bar with JScan and all works fine.
WARNING- WARNING - Read this before anyone does solid axle shaft or FAD bypass. Hard lesson learned sharing my experience here to help all my fellow jeepers. Our JL''s have 6 to 6.5 degrees of castor. If you are in the 3.5 to 4.5 of (actual) lift and you're still running factory drive shaft (which you shouldn't be if you're lifted correctly) you're already running a pretty high drive shaft angle for the front R-zeppa and you're likely hitting your boot on the exhaust cross over (3.6 liter motor) when flexing. You won't notice driveline vibration, but when (not if) you convert to double cardan drive shaft (which you should) you will have an angle that might cause vibrations (or hum) at around 48-50mph. In order to correct this (or make it "livable") you'll need to adjust your pinion angle which means you'll bring your castor down to less than 6 which could cause drivability issues for some. Now before anyone thinks I'm going the doom and gloom route here let me say that it's not the end of the world, BUT with so much mis-information on UA-cam I don't want others to look at another channel and put misinformation together and get things all wrong. So here's my example: my 2018 JLUR has 4.55 inches of actual lift with 38in tires. I have the Dana Spicer Ultimate 44 front axle upgrade which has no FAD (Dana spicer does NOT offer added castor when you order this axle like other aftermarket axle companies do). I'm having to run 4.8 and 4.9 castor just to keep my pinon angle close enough to where the very minor rumble (from the driveline vibration) is only barely noticeable at about 48mph. I'm also running Adams 1350 front drive shaft. Now the internet will tell you that castor that low on the JL will make it crazy to drive BUT I think that depends on what tires you're running specifically the weight. The weight of a true 38 or 39 inches tire sort of acts like a vertical gyroscope and sort of keeps your steering pretty good and doesn't necessarily wonder all of the road. But I do admit that in high winds I do have to use at least 4 fingers on my steering wheel instead of 2 (lol, not joking). I'm old school (Check out my channel jeepNdirt) and plan on keeping my JL for a very long time (since I've owned my YJ for 26 years) so I'll be performing a cut and turn on that axle probably this winter as I don't have plans on going to 40's and needing Dana 60 / 80's. Again it's not the end of the world but I did want to share this experience and the numbers so you won't be surprised if you notice similar results. As for the rest of the electronic problem. As an Engineer who works in manufacturing I have to admit, sometimes things may go wrong and in this case that weird short caused other issues. I applaud your initial efforts to diagnose since you were out of warranty and most of the time we should avoid the "Stealerships" as much as possible but in this case this is one where even I would have taken it to them before purchasing any high dollar items for the simply fact that the technology (computer) in the diagnosis systems is the reason CANBUS was works. I strongly agree that I wouldn't have just taken it to any dealership and only would have done like you and find one recommended. I'm fortunate to have a couple of jeep friends who work at my local dealership and having something like this inspected would probably yield similar results you what you had with yours. Glad you found those guys. Similarly during my build my JLUR (as seen on my channel) my lockers were wired directly to my MLC-6 controller and sway bar replaced with the "Anti-rock" sway bar. Good stuff and thanks for the in depth follow up. I've been waiting for this one. Our JL's / JT's are great machines but as and old school guy, I like a balance between technology and good old direct 12V wiring. Lol.
That's a very good point about the front driveline and something that was a challenge on the JK platform as well. For my JK, I swapped to a ProRock 44, which rotates the pinion to help with the driveline angle.
Thats a really random solution to your problem! Glad you got it figured out as I am aware of how annoying the yellow lights on the cluster get 😂 I love the idea of the evo sway bar disconnect setup, especially for a backup if the motor fails offroad, but one of the main reasons I got the tazer was for it's swaykill feature. Another option, a buddy of mine has an air actuated sway bar disconnect on his 4XE Rubicon and he loves it.
I had an issue with the fad. I turned it off, turned back on in acc mode, then shifted back and forth. This effectively reset it. But, this was a position sensor issue more than and hardware failure. I was looking into a fad delete before it started working again. It started on a trail and I could no longer go forward. Rears locked but zero front drive. Soon, fad delete and rcvs in a year or two. I’ll pull out the axels and see what damage is done. They get twisted. Using jscan live will help
On my 2020 gladiator, the bolt came out of the front axle locker wiring on the pumpkin. Jaring the wires had the service 4x4 light coming on and off every 30 seconds
I have a '21 JT Rubi Diesel w/ 5.5" lift and long shocks. My biggest annoyance is very similar, the front ABS sensor wires are not nearly long enough if you have good droop. I finally got another set as they have been on national backorder for nearly 9 months. I was frequently getting "ABS Sensor error w/ Srv 4x4 Sys" together when one wheel isn't reading the same as the other 3 as those wires have been stretched out so many times that they are partially broken...so no swaybar disco, lockers, or 4whl when they are being cranky, and of course that happens on the trail. My dealership also found that a wiring harness was rubbing on the steering shaft bolt, they removed the christmas tree fastener, pulled the harness down, and zip tied it out of the way. That's now a TSB bulletin.
Glad you got it sorted out. Why not go with a RockJock heavy rate sway bar in the front? I love mine driving fast off road and don’t get the floppy feeling on sketchy obstacles
The last time I had a RockJock sway bar I felt the rate was way too light up front and took it off. I haven’t really revisited them since then. When I put my canopy on the back, it needs all the help it can get. If I ever do a frame chop bumper, I might go that route. For now, this works well for my needs.
What do they say about all your accessories you added to it did they like it did. And we all know that the new jeeps are just way two technical it's a nanny Jeep they have all the safety aspects, but I love mine I got a 21 gladiator .I like the flatbed.
Since I was paying for the repairs out of pocket, my modifications didn’t make a difference. Everyone at the dealership was incredibly nice and seemed to like my Jeep.
Thanks for sharing your experience. In my case I don’t have the 4wd service light on, but I’m having issues with the 4L. It works mechanically, but is not changing it on the screen. When I set it into D, that’s when I get the 4wd service light on. Not sure what to do.
Start by checking the FAD at the axle. If that’s working fine, your next stop should be the transfer case position center on top of T-case case. After that, go over the entire wiring harness thoroughly. This includes actually checking the plugs at things like the sway bar if you have Rubicon. If it’s not mechanical, you’ll need some type of plug-in computer to see what’s going on. Don’t be like me, and start throwing parts at it. It’ll be cheaper in the long run just to go to the dealership and find out what it needs.
So warning to those deleting the FAD… if you have a 3.5+” lift, you may/will face driveline vibration issues if using the STOCK front axle. Note that in this video he says he has an aftermarket HIGH PINION diff. Deleting the FAD on a stock front axle is not recommended if you have a lift and plan on going over 40mph… Ask RCV. The manufacturer of the recommended 1 piece FAD delete axle…
That can definitely be an issue depending on your lift height. In hindsight, I probably should have mentioned something about that. It hasn't been an issue on my 392, but I know others with aftermarket front drivelines that battle driveshaft vibration issues. Having selectable hubs on my ProRock XD60, it's just not something I think about when talking about driveline issues on this Jeep.
I took my gladiator to the dealership for warranty work and the service writer told me they don't care about the tazers and that the trucks should have come from the factory with those options in his opinion
Great info. I wanted to share that my 2024 Rubicon with the Extreme package doesn’t have the “fad”. Not sure if this is because of the Extreme package or they just got rid of it completely on 2024 wranglers.
Does it just have the block off plate like on the 392? Or is it a completely different axle? I’ve only seen it done with the block off plate. Technically, the disconnect feature is still there, the block off plate just keeps it engaged all the time.
That’s a good question. There’s nothing with that package that would require that. However, that definitely seems like a bonus from a reliability sense. I have only seen that plate under Wranglers with the 3022 transfer case.
All Wranglers that have the 3022 transfer case just have a FAD block off plate. The collar is still there but there’s no way for it to move over. Why they didn’t just put a single piece axleshaft in is beyond me.
I have a 2018 jeep rubicon JL and mine has been saying this: sway bar error service 4x4 which is strange to me cause i have never disconnected my sway bar ever. but when the error comes on it disables my 4x4 but it only happens from time to time.. weird
From what I understand, the plug is typically just loose and all you have to do is squeeze it hard enough to re-engage the pins. As you can tell a video, I just bypassed mine.
At 2:58 you mention and show a bracket that locks the FAD in place as somewhat of a "fix" for $80. Can this part be installed on a 2019 Wrangler JL Sahara? Will this cause the Service 4wd warning to come on? Any more details on exactly what this part does?
Yes. Look in the description of the video and you will see something that says Mopar FAD plate. If you click that link, it’ll take you directly to the part. You will need a taser to turn off the FAD, but that’s it.
That link takes me to this part which says it is the Axle Locker Actuator Kit - Mopar (68547745AA) which appears to be the part that electronically engages and disengages the FAD. Am i mistaken? is this the plate that locks the FAD in the engaged position? @@DrivingLine
The 392 doesn’t have a FAD actuator. That link should be for the FAD plate for the 392. If you want to double check, that is the correct part number, you can call any Jeep dealership and ask them to look it up. I feel like it’s just named incorrectly in the link.
@@LoneStarSwirl I just looked up the part for the Jeep Gladiator on the same Mopar site. It has a completely different part number and is way more expensive. This leaves me to believe that the original link should in fact be the correct part. Here's the one for the Gladiator/Wrangler with an FAD motor standard. store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-locker-actuator-kit-68391561aa?c=Zz1kaWZmZXJlbnRpYWwtYW5kLWRyaXZlLWxpbmUmcz1mcm9udC1heGxlLWRpc2Nvbm5lY3QmbD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1qZWVwJm89Z2xhZGlhdG9yJnk9MjAyMCZ0PXJ1Ymljb24mZT0zLTZsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D
@@DrivingLine, It does make you more attached since you are doing so much to it. I learned that from owning a Chevrolet Silverado years ago. I was young and stupid. 🤣😂
@@DUNEATV, The only place a Toyota can't go that Jeep can is a Jeep Services Dept, and seriously keep buying Jeep its your $$$ but lying like you did is LOW “Redneck Low”!! 🤣 When the real hard core off roaders know you’re full of it.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I won’t mess with the Rubicon’s electronic locker or disconnects. Got arb and apex autolynx instead, super easy.
You have some of the best content on YT. Super-informative, as usual.
Appreciate you saying that.
If I've learned anything being a FCA Dealer Tech. It's that a wiring issue is a wiring issue, may seem completly unrelated and irrelevent, but it can cause completly irrational codes and actions.
I’m using J-Scan full time in my jeep instead of a tazer and i love it!
It’s so handy to have , just connect and go!
And for around 50$ you can’t beat it!
It’s a great tool for sure.
@@DrivingLine absolutely is!
Best info for my 392. I appreciate your channel
Glad you got it fixed. That was a very random issue.
I have a one ton swapped gladiator, with my lockers hard wired, with antirocks. I used a taxer to turn off all my electronics for the tcase, sway bar, lockers on my rubicon.
I know this can be frustrating. Had my share of issues. My Jl I run rcv's no fad Tazer original , I hooked lockers to my aux switches with factory replacement offered harnesses. Lockers any time, front or rear, any speed. The only thing that worries me is the dreaded locker sensor issue. Planning on the tazer harness for that. Great info. Thanks
Thanks, I have only 2000 miles on my Gladiator Rubicon and I despise the the sway-bar nanny, and that I can't use the rear locker in 4 high, and in 4 low the lockers are slow.
Thank you for this follow up. Saving this video for future reference. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great job laying it all out for us.
FWIW, one of our tour Jeeps, a JKUR, went electro-nuts on the dash, virtually all warning lights on or flashing, stopped charging the battery, etc. Turned out to be a broken electric sway bar connector housing had let water in, shorted, took out the TIPM. The sway bar circuit had been shut off years ago but was still in circuit. Replaced the TIPM and shut off the sway bar with JScan and all works fine.
WARNING- WARNING - Read this before anyone does solid axle shaft or FAD bypass. Hard lesson learned sharing my experience here to help all my fellow jeepers. Our JL''s have 6 to 6.5 degrees of castor. If you are in the 3.5 to 4.5 of (actual) lift and you're still running factory drive shaft (which you shouldn't be if you're lifted correctly) you're already running a pretty high drive shaft angle for the front R-zeppa and you're likely hitting your boot on the exhaust cross over (3.6 liter motor) when flexing. You won't notice driveline vibration, but when (not if) you convert to double cardan drive shaft (which you should) you will have an angle that might cause vibrations (or hum) at around 48-50mph. In order to correct this (or make it "livable") you'll need to adjust your pinion angle which means you'll bring your castor down to less than 6 which could cause drivability issues for some. Now before anyone thinks I'm going the doom and gloom route here let me say that it's not the end of the world, BUT with so much mis-information on UA-cam I don't want others to look at another channel and put misinformation together and get things all wrong. So here's my example: my 2018 JLUR has 4.55 inches of actual lift with 38in tires. I have the Dana Spicer Ultimate 44 front axle upgrade which has no FAD (Dana spicer does NOT offer added castor when you order this axle like other aftermarket axle companies do). I'm having to run 4.8 and 4.9 castor just to keep my pinon angle close enough to where the very minor rumble (from the driveline vibration) is only barely noticeable at about 48mph. I'm also running Adams 1350 front drive shaft. Now the internet will tell you that castor that low on the JL will make it crazy to drive BUT I think that depends on what tires you're running specifically the weight. The weight of a true 38 or 39 inches tire sort of acts like a vertical gyroscope and sort of keeps your steering pretty good and doesn't necessarily wonder all of the road. But I do admit that in high winds I do have to use at least 4 fingers on my steering wheel instead of 2 (lol, not joking). I'm old school (Check out my channel jeepNdirt) and plan on keeping my JL for a very long time (since I've owned my YJ for 26 years) so I'll be performing a cut and turn on that axle probably this winter as I don't have plans on going to 40's and needing Dana 60 / 80's. Again it's not the end of the world but I did want to share this experience and the numbers so you won't be surprised if you notice similar results.
As for the rest of the electronic problem. As an Engineer who works in manufacturing I have to admit, sometimes things may go wrong and in this case that weird short caused other issues. I applaud your initial efforts to diagnose since you were out of warranty and most of the time we should avoid the "Stealerships" as much as possible but in this case this is one where even I would have taken it to them before purchasing any high dollar items for the simply fact that the technology (computer) in the diagnosis systems is the reason CANBUS was works. I strongly agree that I wouldn't have just taken it to any dealership and only would have done like you and find one recommended. I'm fortunate to have a couple of jeep friends who work at my local dealership and having something like this inspected would probably yield similar results you what you had with yours. Glad you found those guys.
Similarly during my build my JLUR (as seen on my channel) my lockers were wired directly to my MLC-6 controller and sway bar replaced with the "Anti-rock" sway bar.
Good stuff and thanks for the in depth follow up. I've been waiting for this one. Our JL's / JT's are great machines but as and old school guy, I like a balance between technology and good old direct 12V wiring. Lol.
That's a very good point about the front driveline and something that was a challenge on the JK platform as well. For my JK, I swapped to a ProRock 44, which rotates the pinion to help with the driveline angle.
Thats a really random solution to your problem! Glad you got it figured out as I am aware of how annoying the yellow lights on the cluster get 😂
I love the idea of the evo sway bar disconnect setup, especially for a backup if the motor fails offroad, but one of the main reasons I got the tazer was for it's swaykill feature. Another option, a buddy of mine has an air actuated sway bar disconnect on his 4XE Rubicon and he loves it.
I had an issue with the fad. I turned it off, turned back on in acc mode, then shifted back and forth. This effectively reset it.
But, this was a position sensor issue more than and hardware failure. I was looking into a fad delete before it started working again.
It started on a trail and I could no longer go forward. Rears locked but zero front drive. Soon, fad delete and rcvs in a year or two. I’ll pull out the axels and see what damage is done. They get twisted.
Using jscan live will help
On my 2020 gladiator, the bolt came out of the front axle locker wiring on the pumpkin. Jaring the wires had the service 4x4 light coming on and off every 30 seconds
I have a '21 JT Rubi Diesel w/ 5.5" lift and long shocks. My biggest annoyance is very similar, the front ABS sensor wires are not nearly long enough if you have good droop. I finally got another set as they have been on national backorder for nearly 9 months. I was frequently getting "ABS Sensor error w/ Srv 4x4 Sys" together when one wheel isn't reading the same as the other 3 as those wires have been stretched out so many times that they are partially broken...so no swaybar disco, lockers, or 4whl when they are being cranky, and of course that happens on the trail. My dealership also found that a wiring harness was rubbing on the steering shaft bolt, they removed the christmas tree fastener, pulled the harness down, and zip tied it out of the way. That's now a TSB bulletin.
I saw that TSB on the steering while I was at the dealership. Hopefully your new lines will fix your issue.
Glad you got it sorted out. Why not go with a RockJock heavy rate sway bar in the front? I love mine driving fast off road and don’t get the floppy feeling on sketchy obstacles
The last time I had a RockJock sway bar I felt the rate was way too light up front and took it off. I haven’t really revisited them since then. When I put my canopy on the back, it needs all the help it can get. If I ever do a frame chop bumper,
I might go that route. For now, this works well for my needs.
What do they say about all your accessories you added to it did they like it did. And we all know that the new jeeps are just way two technical it's a nanny Jeep they have all the safety aspects, but I love mine I got a 21 gladiator .I like the flatbed.
Since I was paying for the repairs out of pocket, my modifications didn’t make a difference. Everyone at the dealership was incredibly nice and seemed to like my Jeep.
Thanks for sharing your experience. In my case I don’t have the 4wd service light on, but I’m having issues with the 4L. It works mechanically, but is not changing it on the screen. When I set it into D, that’s when I get the 4wd service light on.
Not sure what to do.
Start by checking the FAD at the axle. If that’s working fine, your next stop should be the transfer case position center on top of T-case case. After that, go over the entire wiring harness thoroughly. This includes actually checking the plugs at things like the sway bar if you have Rubicon. If it’s not mechanical, you’ll need some type of plug-in computer to see what’s going on. Don’t be like me, and start throwing parts at it. It’ll be cheaper in the long run just to go to the dealership and find out what it needs.
Wow...this is great content.
So warning to those deleting the FAD… if you have a 3.5+” lift, you may/will face driveline vibration issues if using the STOCK front axle. Note that in this video he says he has an aftermarket HIGH PINION diff.
Deleting the FAD on a stock front axle is not recommended if you have a lift and plan on going over 40mph…
Ask RCV. The manufacturer of the recommended 1 piece FAD delete axle…
That can definitely be an issue depending on your lift height. In hindsight, I probably should have mentioned something about that. It hasn't been an issue on my 392, but I know others with aftermarket front drivelines that battle driveshaft vibration issues. Having selectable hubs on my ProRock XD60, it's just not something I think about when talking about driveline issues on this Jeep.
موفقة موبسة حفظك الاه ورعاك 💔💔💔💙💙💙💙👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻✌🏿✌🏿🤲🏻🤲🏻🤲🏻🫱🏻🫲🏾🫱🏻🫲🏾🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽💚💚💚💚💚💚
I took my gladiator to the dealership for warranty work and the service writer told me they don't care about the tazers and that the trucks should have come from the factory with those options in his opinion
Great info. I wanted to share that my 2024 Rubicon with the Extreme package doesn’t have the “fad”. Not sure if this is because of the Extreme package or they just got rid of it completely on 2024 wranglers.
Does it just have the block off plate like on the 392? Or is it a completely different axle? I’ve only seen it done with the block off plate. Technically, the disconnect feature is still there, the block off plate just keeps it engaged all the time.
@@DrivingLine Yes it has the block off plate. Is that just because it’s the extreme package? I don’t have a 392.
That’s a good question. There’s nothing with that package that would require that. However, that definitely seems like a bonus from a reliability sense. I have only seen that plate under Wranglers with the 3022 transfer case.
@@DrivingLine Interesting isn’t it…🤔
I’ve seen other 2024’s with the block off plate. @epicadventureoutfitters has some on video.
Note 392's and 2024+ 4xE's do not have the FAD
All Wranglers that have the 3022 transfer case just have a FAD block off plate. The collar is still there but there’s no way for it to move over. Why they didn’t just put a single piece axleshaft in is beyond me.
Trouble is key word for Jeep Wrangler JL of Jeep Gladiator JT, that is why I sold both of them………
Why mine sometimes shows the 4wd service and sometimes it doesn’t? But I’m still cannot use 4H o 4L
Can you help me?
Sounds like it could be the plug and or an issue with your front axle disconnect. That would be the first place I would check.
Are there particular year's that this problem is an issue for? I'll be getting a 4-door Wrangler once my truck takes a crap.. LOL
All of the electronics are essentially the same from the 2018 JL to the present model years.
❤❤❤❤❤
I have a 2018 jeep rubicon JL and mine has been saying this: sway bar error service 4x4 which is strange to me cause i have never disconnected my sway bar ever. but when the error comes on it disables my 4x4 but it only happens from time to time.. weird
I would check the plug at the sway bar. It’s a common issue.
@@DrivingLine Thanks! what is the fix for that? if you don't mind me asking?
From what I understand, the plug is typically just loose and all you have to do is squeeze it hard enough to re-engage the pins. As you can tell a video, I just bypassed mine.
@@DrivingLine thanks! i will check it out
Fad Delete kit and a tazer will spot the issue
At 2:58 you mention and show a bracket that locks the FAD in place as somewhat of a "fix" for $80. Can this part be installed on a 2019 Wrangler JL Sahara? Will this cause the Service 4wd warning to come on? Any more details on exactly what this part does?
Yes. Look in the description of the video and you will see something that says Mopar FAD plate. If you click that link, it’ll take you directly to the part. You will need a taser to turn off the FAD, but that’s it.
That link takes me to this part which says it is the Axle Locker Actuator Kit - Mopar (68547745AA) which appears to be the part that electronically engages and disengages the FAD. Am i mistaken? is this the plate that locks the FAD in the engaged position? @@DrivingLine
The 392 doesn’t have a FAD actuator. That link should be for the FAD plate for the 392. If you want to double check, that is the correct part number, you can call any Jeep dealership and ask them to look it up. I feel like it’s just named incorrectly in the link.
@@LoneStarSwirl I just looked up the part for the Jeep Gladiator on the same Mopar site. It has a completely different part number and is way more expensive. This leaves me to believe that the original link should in fact be the correct part. Here's the one for the Gladiator/Wrangler with an FAD motor standard. store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-locker-actuator-kit-68391561aa?c=Zz1kaWZmZXJlbnRpYWwtYW5kLWRyaXZlLWxpbmUmcz1mcm9udC1heGxlLWRpc2Nvbm5lY3QmbD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1qZWVwJm89Z2xhZGlhdG9yJnk9MjAyMCZ0PXJ1Ymljb24mZT0zLTZsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D
Where to get that fad cover with the fork incase the fad motor fails
store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-axle-locker-actuator-kit-68547745aa?c=Zz1kaWZmZXJlbnRpYWwtYW5kLWRyaXZlLWxpbmUmcz1mcm9udC1heGxlLWRpc2Nvbm5lY3QmbD0xNiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWplZXAmbz13cmFuZ2xlciZ5PTIwMjEmdD11bmxpbWl0ZWQtcnViaWNvbi0zOTImZT02LTRsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D
My dealer has one tech that is a Jeep guy and he said leave the tazer in a married.
😅😊
Comment
If you don't have issues its not a real Jeep. 😂😂😂 do keep blowing your $$ away, I own nothing but TOYOTA.
I had numerous Toyotas and I could never follow the Jeeps on the Hard Trail’s. I’ve never been so bored in my life. Driving my Toyotas.
I’ve owned a lot of different makes over the years. You push them hard enough, you’ll eventually find a failure point.
@@DrivingLine, lol! Sure keep
Owning those Jeeps. You’ll soon understand why it went out of business like 12 times this century.
@@DrivingLine, It does make you more attached since you are doing so much to it. I learned that from owning a Chevrolet Silverado years ago. I was young and stupid. 🤣😂
@@DUNEATV, The only place a Toyota can't go that Jeep can is a Jeep Services Dept, and seriously keep buying Jeep its your $$$ but lying like you did is LOW “Redneck Low”!! 🤣 When the real hard core off roaders know you’re full of it.