BJD Basics: Sealing your doll for faceups or repaints
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2017
- We're all new to customization at some point! I often receive questions about spraying sealant, from how it's done to what the weather should be like when spraying. Today, in the first installment of my newbie-friendly BJD Basics videos, I'll walk you through the basic procedure of sealing your doll. In this video, I'm spraying prior to beginning faceups, but it's the same process and technique for sealing layers of a faceup, too!
A few topics touched on are:
- Setting up to spray
- Equipment necessary for sealing
- Ideal spraying weather
- When your sealant is ready to spray
- Where to hold the can
- How to move and layer the spray
- Removing dust and overspray
As many more questions are asked about types of sealant to use and how the weather affects them, I'll address those subjects in another video in the future.
The dolls in this video are a DreamingDoll Impdoll Bobo (the smaller head) and a Fairyland Fairyline A-line event head (the one with elf ears) and both belong to friends.
Tools used in this video:
These are Amazon affiliate links, which helps me earn a few pennies as a referral bonus if you purchase these items. It doesn't cost you any extra, though. :)
Citadel Purity Seal:
amzn.to/2wxMScQ
3M respirator:
amzn.to/2wyzp4P
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Find me, and more updates about my dolls and work:
★ Blog: www.ithilear.com
★ Instagram: / lomilmalinde
★ Patreon: / lomisplayground
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Thank you so much for this! I've had all the supplies for sealing and hadn't done it yet because I wasn't sure how to go about it. This was super helpful! :)
I'm so glad you found it helpful! I hope your first faceup turns out just how you want it!
I'm redoing faceups on my dolls, the sealing came out flawless with your tips. Thanks!
Just the information I was looking for! Thank you for taking the time to share it with everyone.
I love the texture it makes . It looks like real skin !!!
Wonderful video , thank you for sharing !
Thank you so much for all of your tuts! They are so informative and helpful!!
Thank you for your kind words
Bless you for showing how to properly spray. "thin and light coats" to me meant a few quick passes per layer and lo and behold it was too thin. :S
Thank you for watching!! I hope this helps your next attempts work out better. I know I had a hard time figuring sealant out when I started doing my first faceups. I'm kinda glad images of those attempts didn't survive XD
Lomi's Playground I believe it will help. Up until now, I've torn my hair out every time I applied gloss because any water color would smear, and I couldn't understand how 2-3 final coats was nearly enough. Now I get it!
Aaaa thank you!! I dearly needed this info 😩😩
Thank you so much ! Your video was super helpful 🖤
Very helpful thank you
Ty, this tutorial is very very important for me!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you very much!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!
ur welcome
Thanks, soooo helpful
Just bought a mask and mr super clear, im so excited to do my first repaint, ty for the video
I hope you enjoy it!
Thank you for this! I have been spraying way too close and directly and all the dolls I tested on turned out horribly shiny and wet looking
How often should i seal? For the face up and after the face up? Good Video btw 😘
What sealant should be used on air-dry clay? I'm using La Doll Premier clay.
This is so useful for my Minifee Chloe >:D
This was a brilliant tutorial, thanks, although I feel I have my sealing method down, I think this is great for newer people to the hobby 😊. Aaaaand its always good to learn new tricks. I really could have used this when I first started 😥. Also I use the same sealant as you 😁, Citadel purity seal is the best I've come across and dries in half the time of MSC 😊
Thank you! That was kinda what I thought--I hadn't even considered that people might benefit from a guide to spraying until a friend who is just starting with face-ups asked me how I did it. I started using spray paints and stuff so long ago that I forget not everyone is comfortable with it when they start! I find Purity Seal works the best for me here, since my area tends to have high humidity. It performs so much better than MSC in this weather.
thank u so much for this video! my customs are so great and come out very nicely now that i know how to use msc properly. do you know what happens if you inhale msc? i once inhaled a little because my mask slipped a bit while spraying, but i dont know what it does... kinda scared. do you know what happens if you inhale msc at all?
The good news is a one-time accidental inhaling isn't likely to do anything, so you're probably fine. I've accidentally breathed it before plenty of times, because of my mask shifting or my cartridges needing to be replaced. As long as you corrected it right away, you should be fine :) In the short term, inhalation can cause a sore throat and irritated sinuses, cough, congestion, nausea, headache, dizziness, and difficulty breathing. Spray paints of all sorts can emit carbon monoxide, so the symptoms of inhalation in large amounts can be similar to carbon monoxide poisoning. The chemicals in the vapor are also carcinogenic, so long-term exposure is especially dangerous, and it can take years for your lungs to heal from extended exposure. The good news is that kind of exposure would be like... spraying MSC all day and not wearing a mask at all. But the effects can also be compound over months/years of exposure, which is why it's a good idea to take precautions every single time you spray!
Hi, what sculpt is the little doll?
Do you use use sealent after you are done painting the face? And howany layers to take any shine that was left using UV flat MSC?
Yes, I seal two or three times after the faceup is complete to keep it from being damaged or rubbed off. It doesn't take much to reduce shininess, just a layer or two.
Can you link the spray you've used please:(?
Hi Lomi, what you demonstrated is what makes up just one layer right? When people say they first do three layers of sealant it means that they do all of what you did, let it dry, and then repeat two more times?
Yes, exactly. That's one layer :) The sealant must dry completely before putting on new layers.
I sprayed outside and my doll’s face ended up becoming a pinker and slightly darker colour than before. It returns to its original colour when the sealant is removed though. Is there anyway to avoid this? Spray inside? I used munitorum varnish.
This video is very informative, I wondering where did you buy the rated respirator mask? I wondering if you can also send the link of the site you bought it please?
I got mine from Home Depot, but it's available on Amazon as well. I keep a full list of all the supplies I use on my website here: www.ithilear.com/doll-customization-supply-master-list.html
@@LomisPlayground thank you very much.
Thank you for the tutorial! I just used MSC for the first time today, and I was pretty intimidated. I'm using an OV P100 respirator, but is it normal to smell the chemical through the mask? I did the inhalation/exhalation checks to ensure my mask was sealed, but I'm concerned the seal might've opened while I was spraying.
Smelling anything definitely isn't normal. I do occasionally have my mask shift on my face while I'm spraying, though, and in that case I will still catch a whiff of the chemical now and then. The best I can suggest is making sure you adjust your mask regularly, because every time I take it off between coats, it loosens the straps just enough that they have to be tightened again to prevent leaks.
Lomi's Playground I see, thanks so much for your response! I’ll definitely be mindful of that.
do you think it's the same with airbrush? my brother has an airbrush and i want to use it for sealing, i bought a liquid varnish
It's very similar :) I do use airbrush sealants for dolls as well. With airbrushes, you don't want to be as far back as with a spray can, as the aerosol cans are much more powerful. The distance will vary from brush to brush, but with mine (Master G233) I hold the airbrush about 10 inches from the doll's head. When I use acrylic mediums and varnishes as sealants, I dilute them with water, mixing them 50/50, and usually spray at around 30 PSI. But just like with an aerosol can, you'll want to hold the airbrush far enough back that you only get a thin, light misting on the doll. However, since the acrylic sealants don't dry as quickly as lacquer varnishes, the doll may appear just slightly wet when you spray. Otherwise, it's the same--spray a coat, cover the head and let it dry completely, then repeat a few times until it's thoroughly coated. I hope that helps!
How often do you have to change the filters/cartilages on the respirator
It normally depends on the respirator
So i bought msc uv cut flat, but on most of the faceup videos ive been seeing use matte, and thats what i bought last time. I just wasnt paying complete attention, is there any significant difference between them?
From my understanding, there's not any difference--I certainly can't see a difference in how they perform. I was told by my local hobby shop that the matte version is a slightly newer formulation but they work the same as far as I can tell.
Not sure if this reply being 5 months late would help, but thought I'll share that msc matte is a newer version of msc flat, not msc uv cut flat. Msc uv cut flat is different from msc flat/matte in that it has uv protection as well. Uv cut flat is usually slightly more expensive and it's supposed to be better at protecting dolls from uv light/yellowing than matte/flat. I'm not sure how true the uv protection is (don't think anyone tested it on bjds?) but I always use uv cut flat on my faceups and I've been using it for 10 ish years now. :)
Hii, I had a question, for body bluhsing and coloring, it's same idea right? Do couple of coatings as well before coloring? Sorry if this sounds dumb, im pretty new with this
Yes, exactly the same! Don't worry, it's not a dumb question :) Everyone starts as a total newbie.
@@LomisPlayground thank you so much 🙏
Hi, how come that when I top coat sprayed
, the skin tone became darker? Not matching the neck color anymore. Before I sprayed, colors matched.
Many sealants are not entirely transparent and you will unfortunately see some color change, especially on more heavily pigmented dolls :( Some sealants are more clear than others--Games Workshop sealants tend to be some of the most clear--but all of them can cause color shift, sadly.
After so many years, I've finally gotten MSC (not even Testors was available to me). I did the 3 layers and started the face up. Now I can see some materials won't stick or the blushing I sealed two coats ago is getting erased. I came to see if I did something wrong, but I did it exactly like this video...maybe the coats aren't thick enough? The doll doesn't look shiny at all :c
Either the coats aren't going on thick enough, or if the weather has been too dry/warm where you are, that could cause issues too. If the sealant polymerizes in the air before it lands, it may initially appear to seal properly, but it's actually landing as a mostly-cured fine dust instead of a liquid that creates the sealant later you need. That would account for the blushing wiping off as you progress, for sure. A good way to know if it's drying in midair before it hits the doll's head is, after sealing and letting it dry for 20 minutes or so, swipe a fingertip (gloved is best) across the doll's forehead or another inconspicuous area. If it comes away with a chalky whitish powder, the sealant is drying too fast, and you might want to try spraying a little closer, or waiting for a day with slightly more humidity. I frequently encounter this issue in the winter, so it's probably not anything you're doing wrong!
Do you think a N100 mask will work? Also thank you for this video 😊
If it's rated OV/P100, then yes--if it's only P100, then no. The OV part means it filters vapors and not just particulates, and the fumes are part of the hazard!
Hi sorry I wanna know..so we repaint the doll first then sealing or sealing first before repaint the doll?
You do both! Seal FIRST to protect the doll and give yourself an evenly textured surface to paint on. Do the repaint, and then seal on top to protect your work!
@@LomisPlayground alright thank you so much for help, God bless you, 🙏🏻
Hello. i have a quesiton Citadell purity Seal inst avalable anymore. any good alternative. other then the japanese brands which is super expensive?
Yes, Purity Seal was replaced with Munitorum Varnish, which is more of a satin finish - it still works for faceups, but it will have a dewy sheen. Some other options that hobbyists use successfully are:
Tamiya TS80 Flat Clear
Army Painter Anti Shine matt varnish
Vallejo acrylic matt varnish (This comes in both aerosol cans and paint bottles)
Testors Dullcote
Model Masters lusterless flat overcoat
Zoukeimura Powder Spray
Humbrol 49 matt varnish spray
Hi! I am confused a bit by the video. Are you supposed to seal 3 times, waiting 20 mins per each round, before starting to paint on the doll?
Yep, exactly! Thorough sealing protects the resin from being stained, and you have to make sure each layer is totally dry or it won't be as strong/long lasting as it could be otherwise.
@@LomisPlayground thank u so much !
Does this method also work on Barbie dolls i’m starting out to be a doll repaint and I’m doing my first custom and I’m a bit nervous to do it and thanks so much for the video it helped me out with the general idea of how to do those now but I’m still nervous and I hope you have a wonderful day 🤗👍❤️🐺
Yes, vinyl dolls can be sealed the same way. Just make sure you're using a sealant that works well on vinyl. I know Mr. Super Clear works really well on it, but some like Testors Dullcote will eventually turn sticky when sprayed on vinyl dolls.
How long do you wait for it to set after the initial sealing to start the faceup?
The amount of time it takes to dry will vary in different weather. In cooler, damp weather, I usually wait an hour or two after spraying to continue work, but in hotter, dry weather, it only takes 15-20 minutes.
Lomi's Playground Thank you! I’ve been spraying it in my garage and bringing it inside to dry. Is it it bad to have it sitting inside?
Thanks for this video. I am starting on my doll faceup journey and watching as many videos and tutorials as I can... I am surprised how much you sprayed the doll. Coz i read in some articles and heard mentioned in some videos that you should only spray a little per layer. So i'm now confused.
It's okay to do thin, light layers to seal the colors in between, that may be what they're referring to - but your base layers (like what I put on these dolls here) should be pretty thick in order to prevent the pigments used in faceups from staining! I usually do at least 2 heavy coats, lighter coats in between to set each layer of a faceup, and then a couple heavy coats on top to add durability. There's nothing wrong with using all heavy or all light layers, it will just change how many layers are needed to get the protection you're looking for.
@@LomisPlayground Oh I see. Thanks so much for clarifying. So this also goes with Barbies and other vinyl heads? Coz I think the ones you sprayed here are made of some other material, am I right? Sorry. As i said, i'm new to all this so still learning. Thanks!
@@moondustgirl2132 No worries! There are no bad questions! Yes, these are cast resin, but I typically treat my vinyl repaints the same way... though only after I know the sealant I'm using cooperates well with vinyl. If I'm using an unfamiliar sealant, I start with more light coats until I'm sure it's going to work well. Mr. Super Clear is the only sealant I've found that reliably works for me on vinyl.
@@LomisPlayground Thanks! I just ordered MSC online and just waiting for it to get delivered. Actually I first bought a cheap one but it doesn't seem to work. When i tested the pencils on the doll, they hardly adhered to the surface which was still pretty smooth. Though maybe I did not cure it enough as I later read elsewhere that you have to give it about 24 hours to cure. Is that right?
But also, i saw another video where the youtuber showed the doll she painted 2 years prior using cheap primer and the surface had become sticky and kind of grainy. So i just finally decided to bite the bullet and order MSC. :)
@@moondustgirl2132 Yeah, I've tried some less expensive options and they did take forever to cure on vinyl dolls. Several years later, the ones I've done with MSC are the only ones that have not turned sticky, so that's what I use exclusively on vinyl now!
Hello! Is mr super clear toxic for animals? I’d been doing the sealing in my yard and sometimes some cat comes for food and I don’t know if it’ll be bad for it’s health :c
I think as long as the cat isn’t eating grass/plants where the spray got on or isn’t around while you’re spraying it should be fine but I’d be careful anyway
I had no idea Citadel made sealants! :o would they work on vinyl plastic like the kind on Barbie or Monster High doll heads? I've always wanted to try doing a repaint on one, since I can't afford a BJD, but ordering sealants online seems more expensive and more hassle than it's worth. If Citadel sealant would work though, then that means I might be able to buy some locally :o
Yep! Purity Seal is my favorite sealant. I have used it on Monster High dolls before but I have a hard time getting the spray just right... It tends to turn sticky on vinyl after a while if it's even a tiny bit too heavy of a coating. It takes a much lighter hand than BJDs, so I typically stick to Liquitex for vinyl dolls.
Ah, alright :) Thank you! I shall have to look into getting some Liquitex then maybe, I have heard of it but I never see any doll UA-camrs using it xD I know MSC is the most commonly used one, both on BJDs and vinyl dolls but it's very much a hassle for me to get XD
It's hard to show it because I normally use Liquitex with my airbrush, rather than as a brush-on. But I also don't use it much for BJDs because I find it's not as sturdy on them as it is on vinyl dolls. Acrylic substances like Liquitex adhere better to vinyl than resin, but you can also increase their durability by heating it after it's been applied, which you wouldn't want to do with a resin doll. Doll factories heat-cure their paints, which is why factory paint jobs on vinyl dolls are so durable! The only downside is that the vinyl does emit toxic gases when heated, so you wouldn't want to do it in a home oven or anything like that.
That makes sense, it probably makes for a much smoother coating too :) Yeah, that could be dangerous too in case you melted it by accident xD Well thank you for the tips and advice, it was a great video too :D
Are there less toxic methods for sealing a doll that don't involve respirators?
Yes, you can use brush-on sealants as well. Anandoll has a few videos about that method. You can find the first one here: ua-cam.com/video/i4uZwZLVh5g/v-deo.html
What do you do if the weather is bad all the time !! I live in Florida
It's still possible to use aerosol sealants in high humidity weather. If you have a hair dryer, you can use it on low to heat cure each layer of sealant. It's important to make sure you dry it for longer than you think is necessary to ensure there is no humidity trapped between layers, because that trapped moisture is what leads to faceups cracking, flaking, or hazing. 5 minutes or so for each layer is usually fine :) The low heat won't harm a resin head. If it's too hot for your hand holding it, it's too hot for the resin, so try turning down the temperature or hold the head a bit farther away. Hope that helps!
@@LomisPlayground is it okay for vinyl ?
@@moeflavor Yes! Just don't let it get too hot/stay hot for long, since heat softens vinyl.
Can you use turpentine/thinner to clean a face up?
No, it's much too harsh to use safely on resin. I have a video about the three most common safe faceup removal agents here: ua-cam.com/video/Sa3h1_qEZ-E/v-deo.html
Lomi's Playground Thank you!
Oh no! I didn't realise you were supposed to seal BEFORE the face up as well as after. I've just finished my first face up and was about to seal. Will this ruin all my work? Do I have to start again? Should I seal now and see what happens? :-/
The primary reason you seal before doing the faceup is so that it gives you a good texture to work on and prevents any materials you use from staining the doll. I personally would recommend restarting to be sure the head is protected long-term, as some pigments take a while to cause staining, but the choice of what you do is up to you in the end. Not everyone worries about staining or later removal, and while there are things recommended as "best practices" in the hobby, I'm also somebody who sprayed my favorite doll with automotive primer, so I also don't really feel there's necessarily one specific right way to do things :P I have scrubbed some heavily stained dolls before though, and I can say it wasn't fun.
@@LomisPlayground Thanks for the advice!
Hi :) I was wondering if a P100 mask would work? Even if not I found one under the exact description. Your video is so helpful!
If it does not have an OV/P rating, then it won't filter out the aerosol chemicals when you spray, so make sure it's rated for OV/P and not just particulates!
Hello, is it right when the doll is wet after sealing? Or is it too much sealing then?
It can be normal for it to look a little shiny or dewy while the sealant is wet! It should definitely not have any droplets or anything though.
@@LomisPlayground thank you! I sealed a head with mr super clear and after it was dry I could easily remove the sealing with my fingernails. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I thought it would protect the head from scratches. I sprayed from a distance around 30 cm. It's frustrating that it doesn't work. Or is it normal that the sealing is going off so easily? I used acrylic paints and pastel chalks for the face up.
@@hitomi189It should not come off with regular handling, but it is still very possible to scratch, unfortunately. If you can get Vallejo sealant, you may find that you prefer it - I have found it to be more durable than MSC and I believe it is available in an aerosol format, though it's less common.
Do you have to let it dry outside after spraying? Or is it safe to bring it inside? I live in a cold environment, but also have two cats- so I’m nervous about like… accidentally bringing toxic particles inside with me.
Yes, you'll want to leave it where it's well ventilated until dry--as long as the sealant is wet, you'll be able to smell it, and the odor is quite strong. I cover it outdoors to keep dust/dirt from settling on it, then bring it in when dry.
@@LomisPlayground thank you so much for responding! :) that’s so helpful to know!
If you don’t mind, I have just two more questions - do you yourself wait outside too, so you don’t accidentally bring particles inside with you? And do you know how dangerous it is to others- like is there a danger zone where all people need to stay like a 15ft radius away, or something like that?
It’s really hard googling such a specific question, so I haven’t been able to find an answer >~
@@lambs5258 No need to stay outside! By the time I walk back to the house, there's no scent on my clothing or anything. How the fumes carry will depend on weather and wind direction, though. I've always let neighbors know I'll be spraying if they're outdoors when I'm doing it, but they've never been able to smell the vapors. It dissipates pretty quickly outdoors, so as long as people aren't right up on it, it probably isn't an issue. If they can smell it (Mr. Super Clear in particular has a sort of oddly sweet chemical smell) it's a good indication they're too close, but otherwise it varies too much with weather conditions to say!
@@LomisPlayground Thanks for explaining so thoroughly, this is such a huge help. It cleared up anxieties/uncertainties I had about using MSC!
@@lambs5258 You are so welcome! I wish you many successful faceups from here out. :D
whenever i use MSC it always turns out smooth with no tooth or gritty texture , I dont understand why its not working ):
Do you know how old the can is? Sometimes once sealant gets old, it no longer goes on the way it ought to. I've gotten a few bad cans before :(
Mine looks shiny 🤭
what do I do if my doll's face comes out shiny? how do I remove it and make sure I don't make the same mistake?
If it's the first few coats that have gone on shiny, you can remove it with 91% rubbing alcohol or Winsor & Newton brush cleaner, then wash the doll with soap and water and try again. Usually if sealant turns on shiny, it means it was sprayed too thickly, so you can try thinner layers. Just a very light mist! If you've already painted the doll and want to try to fix the shininess, putting lighter coats of sealant on top will reduce the shine.
@@LomisPlayground oh my god thank you so much! i've been looking for help everywhere, thank you so much!
i'm beginner and i dn't know that is super toxic, i spray it inside the room and i like to smell it. I really messed up
Im worried about the mr super clear due to hazard
That's why you need a good quality OV/P95 respirator! It filters out all the harmful particles and vapors. Personal protective equipment is an important part of customization like this.
I'm concerned about the toxicity of the more popular sealants that I seen being used...aren't there any non-toxic ones that work just as well?
Unfortunately not as far as I've found. :/ There are non-toxic acrylic options that can be used with an airbrush (though respiratory protection is still required to avoid inhalation of airborne particles) but they are not as reliable or durable; those that I've used so far dry shiny and rub off easily, and they also turn tacky after a while and attract dust. Some people use them anyway, but have to redo faceups and blushing more often to compensate. I've been testing other sealant options but haven't found anything that works as well as the aerosol lacquers.
@@LomisPlayground Okay, thanks anyway 😊
New England is not conducive to msc