Perfect! I couldn't seem to find information stating whether a voltage regulator limited voltage to a specific value while the engine was running (say, exactly 13.4 volts) or if it just set a limit on how much voltage was generated (ex: 12.6-13.8). Now I understand that fluctuations within an acceptable range do not indicate a faulty regulator. Thank you for clearing that up for me!
Okay here's a good question. I got a 2016 Malibu limited LT. I drive down the road and my battery voltage is reading 12.4 and then suddenly it'll jump up to a 15.2 and then after a few minutes jump back down to 12.4. now give granite I just bought a brand new battery So what could be a potential cause here?
You need to mention that the meter needs to be on DC volts and not AC. AC image is the dotted line with the curvy line above, "Sign Wave" and the DC image is the dotted line with the the straight line above it
He doesn’t need to do anything, I’m glad he gets right to the point. Maybe people should first watch a video on how to use a multimeter. Why stop at your demand? He needs to mention the key needs to turn for the car to start. He needs to mention the throttle is the little pedal to the right. Don’t forget to keep it in park. Usually to pop your hood you have to find the latch marked “hood” in the drivers side floor board area ETC……..
I have a weird fault at the moment where the dashboard lights (ABS, TPS, EML, etc) will all start flashing once the car has been running around 10 minutes. I tested across the battery as it did this, and the voltage went up and down quickly between 14.0 and 14.1 volts. Normally, it holds around 14.08 steadily when the engine is running. Not sure if this could be my alternator, or a different issue.
Hey buddy, did you ever figure out your issue? As you can probably guess, my vehicle recently did the same thing (it spit out 13 DTC codes). Next step is using a multimeter to see if the voltage regulator is the cause. I also had a large amount of battery "dust" around the positive charge. I appreciate any help you can offer.
So how am I able to tell if it my voltage regulator that has failed that is causing the voltage to overcharged when I start the car vs the voltage regulator is good but something else is causing it to not work properly. When I start my car the dash lights flicker and the voltage is 15-16v after 2 mins of idle the voltage drops to 14.4 volts. When I raise the rpm it goes up to 15v. I can’t tell if my voltage regulator is bad or if something like a bad ground is making it not function correctly. It works intermittently with a pattern which makes me think the second option is possible and it’s a 1 year old new alternator. I am confusion
Install external voltage regulator / kit on my 2011 town and country? because my alternator stopped charging even after installing new alternator and battery what am i doing wrong?
This video shows regulator can be faulty if overcharging battery. What if cars voltage is dropping every now and then, how do we test if voltage regulator is problem. Alrernator is charging fine, people are saying its not battery or alternator as charging is going up but not above 14.3. Just drops randomly
What does a transisterized Voltage regulator mean it has a ground mounting lead and two leads it is off a 75 hp Johnson outboard 1962 numbers on it say N12v 961 8d
It tests that the regulator is limiting the high end of a working alternator, but if you have low voltage this doesn't tell you if the regulator is bad or the alternator is bad.
Alright, new battery, new starter, new alternator and belt. I've also made sure all the grounds and hot connections (that i csn locate) are snugged tight. I have a 95 rodeo 3.2 v6 and it doesnt appear the alternator is doing it's job,, still, even after I've replaced it😢 the gauge on the dash shows maybe 11 volts when it's running. My trixkle charger shows 12.0 when the ttuck is running and 12.6 when its shut off. Should be all good but when the battwry dies, so does the truck of course once the ignition system, headlights or heater fan etc drains it. Also i notice when the blinker is on, the guage bounces. Its driving me insane not being able to figure it out 😅 Enlighten me anyone, please. The other thing weird is it overheated when the battery was failing and i had it idling to charge it (the cooling fan has its own belt and always spinning) maybe its not even connected to the charging issue but it only got hot the one time while i was trying to let the alternator charge the battery (yeah, it didn't) but it has run with a charger on it and it hasn't overheated again. Maybe a fluke coincidence, but idk.. ideas on my charge issue at keadt anyone? Someone said if the battery dummy light bulb goes out it opens the curcuit and won't charge. I see the light with the key on (not running) tho it never lights to warn me when the battery gets low so...idk. (i figured maybe because it has a gauge) but then again its a dummy light, dummies dont read guages so it should light, i mean whats the point otherwise, right?
Oh, while idling if I hit the gas, it draws the guage down to 10 around volts and it bounces back up after you let off it. I'd think it'd go up if anything but I don't really know anything DC electricity tbh
Yes it was a faulty voltage regulator on a "new" alternator from the auto parts store. Just returned it ands bought an OEM replacement. Thanks for the reply! @@-never-gonna-give-you-up-
I take issue with the last statement. If with the car off, the voltage is too low, the battery should be recharged first, and perhaps multiple times to see if it can hold a charge. Very likely some car door was adjar or some lights were left on and the battery drained overnight, or while on vacation and it may be perfectly fine. Otherwise, good information.
I don't think this video is very complete. You show how to test it with a range you don't reference where you got that tolerance range from. Worst, you don't say what to do afterwards if the test results are higher or lower than expected values. *Rephrase; you generally what to do from high or low but that seems applicable to that specific motor. I'm doing this same test on a 5.0 engine and my voltage off is 12.2 volts. I turn on and it goes to 14.65 volts but it does not fluctuate with increasing or decreasing the engine RPM. It's charging but is it overcharging? According to your range it is but this is also a bigger engine with bigger battery. Is there a place to reference this or manufacturer or engine type?
Best video I have seen on the subject, informative, simple, and to the point.
This is an excellent video. To the point, informative, different possible voltage readings covered. Thank you and well done!
You said it, JediMasterMok! This gentleman knows how to produce a video! Thank you. Concise and very helpful!
Informative and to the point - many thanks.
Perfect!
I couldn't seem to find information stating whether a voltage regulator limited voltage to a specific value while the engine was running (say, exactly 13.4 volts) or if it just set a limit on how much voltage was generated (ex: 12.6-13.8). Now I understand that fluctuations within an acceptable range do not indicate a faulty regulator. Thank you for clearing that up for me!
Thanks for a very basic explanation of electronics and I thoroughly appreciate it good job I subscribed look forward to hearing some more
Clear concise breakdown of concepts and testing. Well done.
Nice video. Very informative. Crisp presentation.
Great, simple to follow video! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Is there a situation where the voltage regulator doesn't allow charging?
Great video man....it just earned you a new subscriber....straightforward and to the point...thank you sir...
Good common sense advice! Thanks for the video sir.
Like how you mention repair/replace the part.
Thank you sir. This helped me alot.
Nice information thank you❤🌹 🙏
Okay here's a good question. I got a 2016 Malibu limited LT. I drive down the road and my battery voltage is reading 12.4 and then suddenly it'll jump up to a 15.2 and then after a few minutes jump back down to 12.4. now give granite I just bought a brand new battery So what could be a potential cause here?
You need to mention that the meter needs to be on DC volts and not AC. AC image is the dotted line with the curvy line above, "Sign Wave" and the DC image is the dotted line with the the straight line above it
He doesn’t need to do anything, I’m glad he gets right to the point. Maybe people should first watch a video on how to use a multimeter. Why stop at your demand? He needs to mention the key needs to turn for the car to start. He needs to mention the throttle is the little pedal to the right. Don’t forget to keep it in park. Usually to pop your hood you have to find the latch marked “hood” in the drivers side floor board area ETC……..
Most direct and simple way to explain this situation
Thank you!
I have a weird fault at the moment where the dashboard lights (ABS, TPS, EML, etc) will all start flashing once the car has been running around 10 minutes. I tested across the battery as it did this, and the voltage went up and down quickly between 14.0 and 14.1 volts. Normally, it holds around 14.08 steadily when the engine is running.
Not sure if this could be my alternator, or a different issue.
Hey buddy, did you ever figure out your issue? As you can probably guess, my vehicle recently did the same thing (it spit out 13 DTC codes). Next step is using a multimeter to see if the voltage regulator is the cause. I also had a large amount of battery "dust" around the positive charge. I appreciate any help you can offer.
Wish they taught this in high school, you can basically diagnose three problems with just one multimeter at a single measuring point.
Thanks sir my alternator reading 14.7 when idling and goin to 15 + when 2000rpm or more
So how am I able to tell if it my voltage regulator that has failed that is causing the voltage to overcharged when I start the car vs the voltage regulator is good but something else is causing it to not work properly. When I start my car the dash lights flicker and the voltage is 15-16v after 2 mins of idle the voltage drops to 14.4 volts. When I raise the rpm it goes up to 15v. I can’t tell if my voltage regulator is bad or if something like a bad ground is making it not function correctly. It works intermittently with a pattern which makes me think the second option is possible and it’s a 1 year old new alternator. I am confusion
Is 14.5 too high ? 1977 Ford F-150 300 6 cylinder notice the oil pressure and temp seem to climb together
Install external voltage regulator / kit on my 2011 town and country? because my alternator stopped charging even after installing new alternator and battery what am i doing wrong?
This video shows regulator can be faulty if overcharging battery. What if cars voltage is dropping every now and then, how do we test if voltage regulator is problem. Alrernator is charging fine, people are saying its not battery or alternator as charging is going up but not above 14.3. Just drops randomly
What does a transisterized Voltage regulator mean it has a ground mounting lead and two leads it is off a 75 hp Johnson outboard 1962 numbers on it say
N12v
961
8d
But how can I test or substitute with external regulators
This is not a test on the regulator. This is to check if the alternator is charging the battery.
It tests that the regulator is limiting the high end of a working alternator,
but if you have low voltage this doesn't tell you if the regulator is bad or the alternator is bad.
@@pilotdog68a shorted diode in the alternator can mimic the symptoms of a bad regulator
but where is the voltage regulator in the alternator or external?
Alright, new battery, new starter, new alternator and belt. I've also made sure all the grounds and hot connections (that i csn locate) are snugged tight. I have a 95 rodeo 3.2 v6 and it doesnt appear the alternator is doing it's job,, still, even after I've replaced it😢 the gauge on the dash shows maybe 11 volts when it's running. My trixkle charger shows 12.0 when the ttuck is running and 12.6 when its shut off. Should be all good but when the battwry dies, so does the truck of course once the ignition system, headlights or heater fan etc drains it. Also i notice when the blinker is on, the guage bounces. Its driving me insane not being able to figure it out 😅
Enlighten me anyone, please.
The other thing weird is it overheated when the battery was failing and i had it idling to charge it (the cooling fan has its own belt and always spinning) maybe its not even connected to the charging issue but it only got hot the one time while i was trying to let the alternator charge the battery (yeah, it didn't) but it has run with a charger on it and it hasn't overheated again. Maybe a fluke coincidence, but idk.. ideas on my charge issue at keadt anyone?
Someone said if the battery dummy light bulb goes out it opens the curcuit and won't charge. I see the light with the key on (not running) tho it never lights to warn me when the battery gets low so...idk. (i figured maybe because it has a gauge) but then again its a dummy light, dummies dont read guages so it should light, i mean whats the point otherwise, right?
Oh, while idling if I hit the gas, it draws the guage down to 10 around volts and it bounces back up after you let off it. I'd think it'd go up if anything but I don't really know anything DC electricity tbh
What if the car doesnt start??
sorry, rebuilt or replaced, point being, not simply just replacing the part.
What if it is bouncing very rapidly (so fast that you can't get a good reading) between 14v and a very low voltage?
Faulthy voltage regulator or faulthy alternator
Yes it was a faulty voltage regulator on a "new" alternator from the auto parts store. Just returned it ands bought an OEM replacement. Thanks for the reply! @@-never-gonna-give-you-up-
@@user-li2bc3fb1g no problem :) glad it's fixed now!
What if it just stays at 14.3 and doesn't increase with the rpms?
That's perfect, that means the bats charging.
Any higher.. that volt reg isn't doing it's job
I take issue with the last statement. If with the car off, the voltage is too low, the battery should be recharged first, and perhaps multiple times to see if it can hold a charge. Very likely some car door was adjar or some lights were left on and the battery drained overnight, or while on vacation and it may be perfectly fine. Otherwise, good information.
I'm in
I don't think this video is very complete. You show how to test it with a range you don't reference where you got that tolerance range from.
Worst, you don't say what to do afterwards if the test results are higher or lower than expected values.
*Rephrase; you generally what to do from high or low but that seems applicable to that specific motor.
I'm doing this same test on a 5.0 engine and my voltage off is 12.2 volts. I turn on and it goes to 14.65 volts but it does not fluctuate with increasing or decreasing the engine RPM.
It's charging but is it overcharging? According to your range it is but this is also a bigger engine with bigger battery.
Is there a place to reference this or manufacturer or engine type?