Alternator Regulators | A and B Circuit
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- Опубліковано 3 кві 2021
- Ever wonder how Alternator Regulators work? Want to know more about the difference between A Circuit Field and B Circuit Field in Alternator Regulators. Well, I am going to show how all this works and how it pertains to the alternators we have in our cars today.
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Brilliant clear video
GOLD GOLD GOLD info. Thankyou for the detailed video.
This video is worth pure gold. Thank you for the insights.
Quite clear from your explanation. It s a good clip. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much. This was the information I have been looking for, without knowing the correct search terms. Its horrible bot knowing what one dosnt know. Lol
I didn't realize there were two ways of doing that. Good video.
Love the pin holding the brushes back. I do that. Well it`s the only way.
Great video, thank you 🙏
Great video!
Excelente
Very helpfull tnks a lot.
NICE VIDEOS
Thanks, i have been a mechanic for years, and never new their was a difference, Although i was able to fix the problems, until now on my own truck. It's overcharging so my sorce voltage is low! Thanks. Did have one with bad alt, changed then it went to 40 volts, the output cable was all but pinched into under boom. So it was a A circuit that wasn't getting supply thru the discharge post, single wire alt. Thanks again
Thank you for your comment. Glad this video was able to help you out. This one trips up even the experts out there.
Loose belt means less alternator rpm. Regulator has to increase field current to compensate. Brushes wear faster. I think polarity has an effect on which brush erodes first. Grooved belts have higher surface area and allow more power transfer than v-belts.
Thank you SOOO MUCH for explaining this stuff so well! I knew there was a and b types, but never understood just how they worked differently.
I'm in the middle of a cummins swap project, and im redoing the wiring from scratch, and have to decide which voltage regulator type to use. It sounds to me that the ford style type B regulator is the better way to go, because +power is controlled to the alternator, and if it shorts out, it will only stop charging and maybe blow a fuse, instead of overcharging and maybe causing damage elsewhere in a type A setup.
Do you concur? What's your thoughts on internally regulated alternators, whether from factory or with an aftermarket module?
The B circuit Ford regulator is the better choice. However, it needs to be the heavy duty type. Because they have as much as 7 amps on the rotor circuit. Also the A wire on the Ford regulator is the battery sense wire to keep the voltage stable. How this helps.
Thank you for explaining things in such great detail. I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 with the Cummings deisel. We replaced both batteries yesterday due to age and not cranking over. (They were each 4 years old). The truck started right up immediately, but the alternator gauge went to max charge, and is staying pegged when driven-18v. Beginning to troubleshoot now, with the knowledge that the batteries are new and good-but not wanting to drive it and do harm. Any thoughts on where to begin, as all the mechanics are a week or so out for diagnosis. Thanks so much for your thoughts, as I was planning to begin a 1200 mile journey to Indiana from Florida today! 🙏
p.s. the alternator gauge has never done this before.
Would you mind calling the shop and asking for Larry. Sometimes old bad Batteries can make the alternator do funny things. We have no problem sending him a new regulator. They are easy to install.
Excellent. Thanks. So, would a B circuit Alternator regulator work on a 2 brush B circuit generator (old Ford 12v diesel tractor)?
You need a cutout for the generator to work. But the B circuit depends on if it’s positive ground or negative ground on your tractor.
So if A and B circuits are the way you explained them, can we say that A is negative controlled and B is positive controlled?
Very good, simple and concise explanations !. ? = i have a NEW alternator from a Dodge truck, 1500 1996 model. 120 amp Denso, i think; model A-8265A02AY7 IT has 2 small studs ; for A and B i assume. And, one large BAT terminal. I want to use it for my Dodge 1996 intrepid car - 3.3 litre engine. What would i need ? that external regulator, that clips onto those A and B studs ; or another method ?.....thankyou for education !
So on your 96 Dodge that alternator is ran by the computer as an A circuit. With the two independent studs, it can be ran as A or B. Is it possible for you to get an alternator number that was originally on the Intrepid so we can determine the circuit of that alternator to see if what you want to do is compatible.
I have a 99 Ford at 3:50 pick up 73 and the alternator is headed off and sucking can choose from the 2 batteries and I was wondering if you could help me fix that
I have a 1999 ford f350 and the alternator is sucking juice from the two batteries at night when the truck is sitting off. I hope you can help me fix this problem. Shut off at night the batteries are at 100%. In the morning the batteries are at 55%. The next day without being run the batteries are at 20%. Thanks
The first thing I would do when you park at night time and the batteries are full open up the hood and disconnect the alternator wire and the plug, let’s totally omit that from the system and see what it looks like the next day. Keep us informed.
you earn a new subscriber Sir straight on first video....thumbs up for crystal clear video on the subject
My buddy's 12 valve Cummins always burned up the regulator until I installed a oil pressure switch for him.
This is very informative. Although, it appears there is no difference between an 'A' and be circuit alternator devices in regards to mechanical design or function as far as the rotor/stator/diode network? The difference appears to be the connections within the terminal block and how they interface with the regulator circuitry? The upper/lower slip ring explanation is confusing to me. isn't it the same connection to the rotor winding on opposite ends? The only difference would be polarity if they were swapped. Which would not matter since there is a DC rectification stage after the induction stage.. Correct? Additionally, what exactly is meant by 'insulated' in regards to the brush connection? Is it simply insulated from earth/ground as to force a path through the rotor coil to earth? Anyone..?
The upper/lower slip ring explanation is confusing to me. isn't it the same connection to the rotor winding on opposite ends?
Yes, one end of the rotor winding is connected to one slip ring and the other end of rotor winding is connected to the other slip ring. The slip ring closest to the alternator pulley is the negative slip ring.
The only difference would be polarity if they were swapped. Which would not matter since there is a DC rectification stage after the induction stage.. Correct?
The rotor alway receives DC current through the slip rings. This DC current will come from the battery when starting your engine and from the output of diode trio after your engine is running. The DC current will always enter the slip ring furthest from the alternator pulley, go through the rotor winding, and come out of the slip ring closest to the alternator pulley, regardless of whether it's A or B circuit.
Additionally, what exactly is meant by 'insulated' in regards to the brush connection? Is it simply insulated from earth/ground as to force a path through the rotor coil to earth? Anyone..?
Yes, he's referring to it being insulated from earth/ground. The positive brush, the one furthest from the alternator pulley, receives positive current and delivers it to the positive slip ring. If your vehicle uses a negative ground system, which the vast majority of cars do today, then you have to insulate anything that is positive to prevent a short circuit. This is why it's insulated.
Ok. I fail to see this before and after bit. AC flows both ways. So your wire going to positive or negative first has no before or after that i can picture. You're just completing the circuit. I feel it's more simple and more correct to just say A is controlled by the negative contact and B the positive. ??
The field winding is not AC it's DC
Thank you so much. This was the information I have been looking for, without knowing the correct search terms. Its horrible bot knowing what one dosnt know. Lol
Happy to help. Don’t hesitate to call us if you have more questions. Ask for Larry.