Thank you as always for the great tech info. If only we could have this same calm intelligent approach to the energy problems facing our time. Ty Jesse
Thanks for your message Alex, it is good to hear you enjoyed the video. Haha and I hear you when it comes to the global energy topics. A good suggestion for next week's video! ;)
After decades of working on vehicles I ended up as field instructor for a car company. Alternators of the early days had stator windings of the “Y” configuration including imports. This terminal became energized once the alt was working and had it’s used. For a couple of decades as amperage demands increased, they use a “Delta” stator design. I was told that the “Delta” was better for amperage output where the “Y” was better for voltage output and limited on total current capacity. I think heat generated in the stator was a factor as this is the death of a diode bank. Dual fans are added, controlling positive by the regulator is the normal action at 400 times per seconds, as controlling ground at 400 times per second was the old way. External system voltage is now the best way to reduce the engine load by reducing the output & drag by changing the duty cycle. I guess if you had thoughts on Y versus delta stator design. Thanks! Certified Automotive ASE Master Tech (USA) since 1978 - Retired
Hello Dean, thank you for your valuable contribution. I appreciate that you were willing to share you knowledge, and I am sure many other viewers will feel the same! I will pin your message to the top of the queue, so that others may learn from it as well. All the best, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution I appreciate all forms of learning and you do a very good job. I simple chose one topic and held 4hr tech seminars in 4 different towns/Cities each week plus other duties. But it keep you sharp. What did anyone do before UA-cam? I guessed they watched others, ask questions, had an apprenticeship or read! I will crank the handle on my wood phone now...
8:15 "press the brake of your car" seems no trivial to me that the alternator can 'see' this. Since it is coupled to the crankshaft it can see that the revs are going down at a certain pace and increase the voltage.
I'm at the point of no return, rewiring is done, the 1985 pickup is about to be tested as is. But that's without my bank, only the starter. But I can't seem to find a smart alternator or any really for a truck that old. Stupid question, but charging, amperage, my alternator, my custom made instrument guage panel and compatibility, all this is still dependant on my ECM module or has having rewired the entire truck from scratch changed anything? Would the voltage be regulated by the trucks computer or is it just the battery and alternator that control it's output? I've done a Big 4 upgrade, and now I am just looking for confirmation before completing the circuit to the negative terminal.
Thank you for the information. I viewed many youtube videos mostly titled "DIY Electricity Generator....". The posters of the videos are using parts (stators and rotors) from old fans, washing machines, microwaves, car dynamo...etc. my question is, do they have the choice to generate AC or DC power from such parts if they have yhe choice to change copper wires thicknes and number of rounds, and magnet kinds? or does it need more than that to generate any of the 2 power types? thank you for your time in replying to my message
Hello Adham, thank you for your reminder. You have an excellent question: In general, changing the wire thickness or magnet strength effects the power output, rather than the 'type' of current, i.e. AC Vs. DC. Commutators and rectifiers are often used to convert AC into DC. Good luck and enjoy! Jesse
Can you please direct me to the external voltage regulator that works in concert with the internal voltage regulator on my automobile (big truck 18 wheeler). Where I can buy it and any info that would help in purchasing one wether make and model number or website(s) to get one. Thank you.
An external regulator is not needed depending on your vehicle. It is a factory add-on for camper / RV to add a second battery. The vehicle runs without a battery as it is only there to start the engine. (Do Not Attempt with today’s alternators) Many higher output alternator fit and be wired in like a GM 1 wire alternator as they use the dash bulb which acts as a current limiter to 0.25 amp or a 470 ohm resistor between key run to field and sense is battery terminal. Best practice for camper/RV is a 50 amp battery isolator that has large or multiple diodes to protect a discharged battery from draining the other. Place a 50AMP fuse between batteries and isolator. One to starter to operate vehicle, #2 runs lights and accessories in camper / RV and use fuses on each circuit in camper. Important; Voltage drop is easy, quick and doesn’t lye. Many vids on this subject. But add grounds. Negative comes from the back end housing of the alternator, so many have a short threaded hole, add a heavy ground from alt to engine. But add grounds from battery to engine, frame, fender, cab and bed if a truck. Paint, grease or loose fasteners create resistance and this lowers voltage. The ability to get amperage depends on a complete circuit. Dielectric grease, “Star” washers and clean sanded mounting pads help eliminate resistance. Star washers have little twisted metal tabs that dig into metal helping the connection. Sold a home improvement stores and dielectric grease is not to be confused with aluminum wire anti-oxidation grease as it is way more expensive. Hope this makes sense! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
And you need a special box to test a smart alternator. It`s just a square wave I think. They cost about £200. I bet I could make one with an Arduino just turning a pin on and off.
I understand that smart alternators don’t work well on short journeys. If you only do s couple of miles a day after a week the auxiliary battery is almost flat because it looks after the hybrid first, the battery second and the auxiliary is the poor man who gets nothing.
My Citroën relay (new van) does not charge over 12.8 volts. This means my start stop never works. How could I make the smart alternator work like a conventional alternator? My dealer have said there is nothing they are willing to do and that it's the characteristics of the van. They also told me it's not charging because the van is heavy 🤣. Toomey Citroën are a joke.
Smart alternators are the stupidest idea. More failure prone & complex to save a miniscule amount of fuel. That savings will never cover the increased repair costs. Another reason politicians and other "do gooder" fools need to keep their hands of things they Do NOT understand. Thanks OBUMA!
Thank you for your message. Whereas I encourage and appreciate all technical ideas and perspectives, I kindly request to refrain from political comments. Thank you!
![Deep Cycle Battery Charging with your Alternator: The 3 Best Options explained [+ Wiring Diagram]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TAEzCcayI0g/mqdefault.jpg)
Course trailer and Coupon Code:ua-cam.com/video/0Fh26SUnnx0/v-deo.html
Thank you as always for the great tech info. If only we could have this same calm intelligent approach to the energy problems facing our time. Ty Jesse
Thanks for your message Alex, it is good to hear you enjoyed the video. Haha and I hear you when it comes to the global energy topics. A good suggestion for next week's video! ;)
After decades of working on vehicles I ended up as field instructor for a car company. Alternators of the early days had stator windings of the “Y” configuration including imports. This terminal became energized once the alt was working and had it’s used. For a couple of decades as amperage demands increased, they use a “Delta” stator design. I was told that the “Delta” was better for amperage output where the “Y” was better for voltage output and limited on total current capacity. I think heat generated in the stator was a factor as this is the death of a diode bank. Dual fans are added, controlling positive by the regulator is the normal action at 400 times per seconds, as controlling ground at 400 times per second was the old way. External system voltage is now the best way to reduce the engine load by reducing the output & drag by changing the duty cycle.
I guess if you had thoughts on Y versus delta stator design. Thanks!
Certified Automotive ASE Master Tech (USA) since 1978 - Retired
Hello Dean, thank you for your valuable contribution. I appreciate that you were willing to share you knowledge, and I am sure many other viewers will feel the same! I will pin your message to the top of the queue, so that others may learn from it as well. All the best, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution I appreciate all forms of learning and you do a very good job. I simple chose one topic and held 4hr tech seminars in 4 different towns/Cities each week plus other duties. But it keep you sharp. What did anyone do before UA-cam? I guessed they watched others, ask questions, had an apprenticeship or read! I will crank the handle on my wood phone now...
Can you cite an example of an external regulator that works with an internal regulator, especially in regards to marine applications.
Very informative video 😊
This can also help fuel efficiency, I'm sure for it
Yes, definitely
Thank you for the video, really helps.
You're welcome!
Good to know... I learned a lot.
Hi Doug, it's good to hear from you. I'm glad the video gave you new information. All the best, Jesse.
Well explained sir🤙
Thanks Alan, that is good to hear!
What Musik and Charlie asked.... would love to see some actual product recommendations for external regulators please.
Hey Jesse, I was hoping that you could recommend a specific external voltage regulator. Is there a particular brand you are partial to?
8:15 "press the brake of your car" seems no trivial to me that the alternator can 'see' this. Since it is coupled to the crankshaft it can see that the revs are going down at a certain pace and increase the voltage.
Yes
Thanks.
You're welcome Dean.
Thank you
You're welcome
thank you 🙏
You're welcome 😊
tolles zeug dude ,, regards from VK3
Thank you RF Monkey, it is good to hear you enjoyed the video. All the best, Jesse.
I'm at the point of no return, rewiring is done, the 1985 pickup is about to be tested as is. But that's without my bank, only the starter. But I can't seem to find a smart alternator or any really for a truck that old. Stupid question, but charging, amperage, my alternator, my custom made instrument guage panel and compatibility, all this is still dependant on my ECM module or has having rewired the entire truck from scratch changed anything? Would the voltage be regulated by the trucks computer or is it just the battery and alternator that control it's output? I've done a Big 4 upgrade, and now I am just looking for confirmation before completing the circuit to the negative terminal.
Question : putting a smart altenator on only the start battery and put 2 DC-DC chargers on that to charge LiPo batteries is this wise to do ?
victron yes
Thank you for the information. I viewed many youtube videos mostly titled "DIY Electricity Generator....". The posters of the videos are using parts (stators and rotors) from old fans, washing machines, microwaves, car dynamo...etc. my question is, do they have the choice to generate AC or DC power from such parts if they have yhe choice to change copper wires thicknes and number of rounds, and magnet kinds? or does it need more than that to generate any of the 2 power types? thank you for your time in replying to my message
You are welcome Adham, I am glad you enjoyed the video. All the best, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution Jesse, if you don't mind, could you please give me a reply to my question!? thank you for your time and efforts.
Hello Adham, thank you for your reminder. You have an excellent question: In general, changing the wire thickness or magnet strength effects the power output, rather than the 'type' of current, i.e. AC Vs. DC. Commutators and rectifiers are often used to convert AC into DC. Good luck and enjoy! Jesse
@@SolarSolution thank you a million for the valuable information Jesse.
You are welcome Adham. All the best, Jesse.
First could internal regulator be controlled by the computer on car? Second is there a way to test alternator while it's on the car?
Interesting
Can you please direct me to the external voltage regulator that works in concert with the internal voltage regulator on my automobile (big truck 18 wheeler). Where I can buy it and any info that would help in purchasing one wether make and model number or website(s) to get one. Thank you.
Arco Zeus
No mention of rectifiers... !!
Hello Jesse, who do you recommend for external regulators? Specifically for a housing setup for a van/rv
An external regulator is not needed depending on your vehicle. It is a factory add-on for camper / RV to add a second battery. The vehicle runs without a battery as it is only there to start the engine. (Do Not Attempt with today’s alternators) Many higher output alternator fit and be wired in like a GM 1 wire alternator as they use the dash bulb which acts as a current limiter to 0.25 amp or a 470 ohm resistor between key run to field and sense is battery terminal. Best practice for camper/RV is a 50 amp battery isolator that has large or multiple diodes to protect a discharged battery from draining the other. Place a 50AMP fuse between batteries and isolator. One to starter to operate vehicle, #2 runs lights and accessories in camper / RV and use fuses on each circuit in camper. Important; Voltage drop is easy, quick and doesn’t lye. Many vids on this subject. But add grounds. Negative comes from the back end housing of the alternator, so many have a short threaded hole, add a heavy ground from alt to engine. But add grounds from battery to engine, frame, fender, cab and bed if a truck. Paint, grease or loose fasteners create resistance and this lowers voltage. The ability to get amperage depends on a complete circuit. Dielectric grease, “Star” washers and clean sanded mounting pads help eliminate resistance. Star washers have little twisted metal tabs that dig into metal helping the connection. Sold a home improvement stores and dielectric grease is not to be confused with aluminum wire anti-oxidation grease as it is way more expensive. Hope this makes sense! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Is it safe to recharge motorbike battery by start cables plugged to the cars engine alternator charging?:-)
Yes, with car engine switced off,
to limit current absorption of motorcycle battery.
And you need a special box to test a smart alternator. It`s just a square wave I think. They cost about £200. I bet I could make one with an Arduino just turning a pin on and off.
I understand that smart alternators don’t work well on short journeys. If you only do s couple of miles a day after a week the auxiliary battery is almost flat because it looks after the hybrid first, the battery second and the auxiliary is the poor man who gets nothing.
My Citroën relay (new van) does not charge over 12.8 volts. This means my start stop never works. How could I make the smart alternator work like a conventional alternator?
My dealer have said there is nothing they are willing to do and that it's the characteristics of the van. They also told me it's not charging because the van is heavy 🤣. Toomey Citroën are a joke.
Smart alternators are the stupidest idea. More failure prone & complex to save a miniscule amount of fuel. That savings will never cover the increased repair costs. Another reason politicians and other "do gooder" fools need to keep their hands of things they Do NOT understand. Thanks OBUMA!
Thank you for your message. Whereas I encourage and appreciate all technical ideas and perspectives, I kindly request to refrain from political comments. Thank you!