The way you describe each pair of shoes...it's like a parent talking about his/her children. You can tell you have a genuine passion for this...as if the fact that you have dozens of pairs wasn't telling enough.
If you’re looking to get into good quality dress shoes. I’d recommend Meermin Mallorca. They are offered at a much lower price than Allen Edmonds, but still are very well made and offer an extreme value for the money .
I'm just venturing into the realm of shoes, and I have to hold myself back from splurging every once in a while. When I achieve bespoke, I'm sure it'll be a lovely milestone. Thank you for sharing, Kirby!
My first pair of quality custom shoes, I got a black cap toe oxford. I got that on a made to measure modified last. Got pretty lucky with those. They fit so well you get that whoosh of air as you put your foot in with how well they fit.
I’m fortunate enough to have finally reached that point in my career where I can afford my first pair of bespoke shoes. I have tremendous trouble with my feet so I feel like it’s a priority over any other type of bespoke item. After watching your videos with all the different makers, I am convinced that a pair of cap-toed Oxfords like the ones Dominic Casey made for you are my ideal starting point. Let’s just hope he has the availability!
If your’ feet give you trouble then you may wish to consider a pair of Derby style shoes as these offer a greater degree of adjustment to allow for feet swelling a little if you have been walking a lot, particularly in hot weather. One other thought is that often people with foot problems choose a very light & flexible pair of shoes, but these offer little support. Some foot problems are better served by a fairly stoutly constructed shoe which, once fully broken in, will be very comfortable but also offer the additional support required.
@@jonathanhicks140 very thoughtful comment - thank you. The issue though is with my heels as they protrude slightly, so it takes so much longer for the heel of the shoe to stretch and soften enough so it’s not putting pressure on my heel. Thankfully the rest are completely fine
This has been wonderful Kirby! And I want to say that it is also nice to see that you know how to wear a tie in regards to a proper length...so many people get this aspect of tie wearing wrong. Excellent!
I’m glad you have many pairs of black shoes. Black is my favorite color for shoes (maybe it’s because I’m 61). Too many UA-camrs don’t like black shoes. Thank you for being independent that way.
I was in West Tennessee visiting family a few years back. We had gone to this small locally owned restaurant. This elderly man and his wife came in. What caught my eye was his black/white wing tips. These shoes were awesome and the only shoes like them I had seen was in the movie The Untouchables. This man had a three piece on with the pocket watch put in the watch pocket and he had a really fancy cane. I went over to him after they sat down and I introduced myself. I told him that I thought his shoes were great. I asked him where he got them. He laughed and said "son, I bought these in Memphis back in the 40's and I have polished them every week since." His shoes literally looked like he had just bought them, that's how clean and well kept his shoes were. I told him that I have wanted a pair for years but only Doc Martin made them with a boot sole. He laughed and told me good luck in my search. I have been to a lot of shoe stores and everyone that works there just looks at me like I am crazy if I ask if they can get them.
Bespoke shoes can go from $2000-$10,000 depending on maker and material... Some shoe trees cost $400 so when that's your whole collection that comment is an understatement 😅
I have been wearing good shoes since high school. I was in a shoe store in Hammond, Indiana. The owner came out with a tan pebble grain and he said; "these are shoes". I was hooked. There was a Church's English Shoes on Wabash in Chicago near Central Camera. I bought many shoes there and I still wear them. Kerry was the owner. He was great to talk to about shoes and taught me about quality. I liked your split toe derby Reindeer.
Crazy as it is, I have maybe 10 pairs of vintage 80's white Capezio jazz/dance shoes. I love how the sole and heel is very low profile...I'm not a professional dancer, I just love the shoes. Dont ask me who started my obsession with these shoes...you'll be surprised. 😊
As I work in a less formal industry here in the UK, my quality shoes and boots (a few divisions lower than yours - mainly Cheaney and Crockett and Jones) tend to be brown. So I'm always interested to see your black cap toe Oxfords, as I style I wouldn't invest in myself. I love split toe Derbys though and those Cleverley Russian Reindeer shoes are the dream. Beautiful. Thanks for sharing your incredible collection Kirby!
C&J and Cheaney very respectable and will last. Bespoke is should be for those with bottomless pockets, addiction, odd feet while most of us will be fie with RTW and MTO
I am retired and live in south Florida so I normally wear casual loafers for most activities. By the way, if you walk along Worth Avenue in Palm Beach all you will see men wearing are Italian-made loafers. My favorite right now are loafers made out of crocodile skins. You should consider this kind of material also. Everybody says that they are the most beautiful shoes that I have. Both pairs that I own I was able to purchase "gently worn" on Ebay. Otherwise, I could never be able to afford them as they cost over $1,000.
Well done Kirby. I liked the suede captoes by Mr. Casey the most. He’s a great artisan. I also thought the whole-cut lazymans were a great idea for travel.
Got to admit, I just grew an affection for suede shoes. I could not figure out how you're going to wear the Casey suede shoes. Rather, what wardrobe. Got to say, you knocked it out of the park! I should not be so inspired by watching your channel... But I have made compromises! I can't quite do bespoke, so I "settle" for made to order 😂 OH! Then, the trousers, the jacket, the shirt, the tie.....
After a while of collecting you will began to find your style and I see that you have. I am more of a European long toe type of guy and I prefer this cut on boots shoes and slippers .
With this much a shoe collection. You surely never have to repeat wear a pair at maybe once a month maybe or longer. For the average guy starting out with barely even a good first leather pair, it’s tough as that shoe gonna get worn lots! However, a damn nice fine collection. A son would be proud one day to walk in his dads literal shoe steps.
I'm not a suit or dress up kind of guy. I wore dress clothes or required dress for many years. I'm comfortable in jeans and an untucked button up or polo shirt. I still wear Metal Band t-shirts too. Kirby is still awesome!
At the end with the miscount: Hi I'm Kirby Allison, I like to help the well dressed with their wardrobes... so I can feed my shoe addiction :D It's how we all finance our hobbies, right?
I’ve got 60 odd but my shoe seller has well over 100 pairs! None are bespoke like yours though but they are still of high quality. I think the slippers don’t offer great value unless you buy from one of the Spanish makers.
Your’ collection is admirable Kirby, but seems to be largely city style shoes, so perhaps you ought to consider a good heavily built country shoe next for out of town, particularly in bad weather (i.e. when you are back over here in the UK). Maybe get experimental with a Veldtschoen construction perhaps. If you do then they may well be an heirloom for your’ children - as they do tend to last…..
Kirby, as always, great video and fun to enjoy getting to see your collection. A question for you, and you may have addressed this before, you didn't show any monk straps? I'll admit, out of a personal collection that rivals yours in numbers (not quite up to your quality standard yet, so thank you for what you said about off the peg) I only have two pairs of monks, one of them by Edward Green in burgundy is a favorite of mine.
I LOVED this. At this time I stick to Allen & Edmunds but in the future plan to add some bespoke shoes to my closet. I think a dark green suede loafer may be sharp. Possibly a new Baron De Rede
You could always try some classic English Northampton bench made shoes I personally like churchs there are lots of very good quality options grenson, Barker's, cheaney and on a budget Loake all decent quality very reasonable prices the full bespoke always seems a little crazy personally as I don't think any bench made shoe is really as comfortable as a decent sneaker anyway and I no longer work in an office environment.
Personally I think you have gone overboard but this is your passion and hobby. I collect classic cars and some think that is stupid. For my shoe comfort I have 4 pairs of custom orthotics made by my foot doctor. Plaster casts were made of the bottom of my feet. I only buy shoes where the factory insoles can come out and I put my custom orthotics in to replace the factory ones. All of my shoes, boots, ice skates ski ski boots fit perfectly. I advise that for everyone to do.
We all have ur obsessions, mine being stringed instruments (guitar, banjo,Ukes). Your videos are so relaxing and interesting, and I have worked on all of my shoes, and bought new since starting to watch you. 21 parries of shoes? Hmm at peak I had 23 guitar effects pedals. Never say too many when its something we like. I can see you value all things sartorial. Do you ever dress down to say denim, or lumberjack shirts, chinos, trainers?
The black loafers, are certainly a favorite of mine. As a young fellow I feel it would be fitting. I may have disliked the boot, maybe I would have to see it. However ,for me, the boots brown suede and then brown or burgundy calf wasn't very appealing-not something I would buy per say. Great video!
Good evening Kirby : I would add something with a heavy patina work , something more daring (Maybe its because I’m from Italy and i love to wear shoes that express my way of being outgoing) Anyway Amazing collection , hope to see you around here in Milan after this emergency situation is over.
Your Dominic Casey shoe is the most beautifil. That is of course my very own subjective opinion. I personally haven't understood all the hype around the chiseled toe shape. Although a lot producers offer a "classic" round toe, most of them look rather flat, as there is little room in the toe box. Carmina's Forest last has a nice shape, but you usually find this refined "old school" classic toe shape only in the higher end of the market.
The three shoes I'd get based on your collection would probably be: 1. Any shoe in pigskin 2. A lazyman in pewter gray calf 3. Oxfords in replica reindeer I won't be able to cross into bespoke territory but I've seen a lot of great MTO designs out there.
I know it is very intrusive but how much money would you guess your shoe collection cost you. The joy and excitement they give you is beautiful and very refreshing to see
I'll gladly take those Burgundy wholecuts off your hands, Kirby :) Actually find more use for that colour than black, personally because I can pair it with lots of grey shades.
I was wearing nothing but black. I recently got into burgundy. I like it! I like using the Saphir Bordeaux polish to emphasize the purple notes of the burgundy. Purple is my favorite color besides black. So I don't know why I didn't try burgundy sooner.
What an absolutely lovely. I absolutely love the Dominic Casey shoes. I would not say the toe shape is traditional, rather that it pays homage to traditional rounded toes. It reminds me of Gaziano and Girling GG06 Last, but with even more shape - beautiful. Also, really like the GC loafers in burgundy (non-alligator ones). It seems like something you could use is a bit more browns, like a nice dark brown or medium-dark brown. Were it me, I might look to add one of the following (in no particular order): 1. Dark Brown, quarter or half-brogue, Oxford 2. Mid to Dark Brown Derby Calf-Skin with a stitched apron 3. Mid to Dark Brown Suede Split Toe Derby 4. Mid to Dark Brown Suede loafer 5. Brown Chelsea Boot I guess if it were my collection I'd have those 5 in mind just because they seem to bridge the gap from chinos to separates to most non-business suits. The Oxford might work less well with chinos and separates, and shoes 3-5 would not work as well with very dark suits. Thinking out loud (so to speak), I'd probably have any of those made in slightly less elongated or more rounded toes shapes. Just some thoughts, for what they're worth.
My favorite is definitely the one from Dominic Casey, then the Croc from George Cleverly, though I would have it in formal shoes instead of casual - it could be a little bit of a more exquisitely shaped formal design, but not in casual style. I do like the mock brogue from GC. Like you, I look for unique material that the few boutiques could sourced for - deerskin with historical value is great. What I am not keen on is the few repetitive design, especially with the casual ones - I prefer something that are out there such as Cothay, and Westminster (i believe) from GC. Also having too many formal captoe can get boring.
Very much enjoyed rewatching this video. I may be wrong, but not sure you showed a punched toe-cap oxford in your collection. You will be aware of the John Lobb catalogue Keikari have placed on the internet, and I was impressed with most of the men's shoes. This probably dates from the 60s, but what they entitle a "Plain Oxford" seems more reminiscent of the 30s, when punching was if anything more common than single or double stitching on the cap. I think I actually prefer it (though most of the punching nowadays seems a bit small to me - New and Lingwood seems about the best on rtw).
I did not even know deerskin shoes were a thing. That pair should be in a museum, not a closet. Just beautiful, I've never seen a leather skin like that before. Price???? 10K??
I'm surprised you don't wear the burgundy whole cuts as often nowadays, I think I like that one the most in your collection. Do you think you'll expand into different colors besides the burgundy/black/and browns? I think you got a navy blue chukka some time ago, but would be cool to see you try out some other more uncommon colors and combinations!
You don’t seem to have any monk straps or Chelsea boots which is a little surprising, I would go for one of them for your next choice unless you don’t like them.
Kirby need some advice. Have bought a few pairs at your recommendation I am struggling a bit sliding a lot is that part of the process I grind when I am on hardwood or tile it’s sliding everywhere does that stop as you wear the shoes more or is there any advice on how to make them less dangerous lol
Impressive collection Kirby! The Baron de rede alligator skin shoes were definitely my love and hate pair. Im not a fan of the colour, versatility and price, given you rarely wear them. But, I do love the texture, the elongated style of the shoe and how the little "squares" refract light at different angles. If you could do it all over again, would you change the colour? and just out of curiosity, would you consider wearing them with no-show socks, navy blue linen/cotton/silk/wool blend suit over a white Friday polo in summer? Thanks
Hey Kirby, Watched your episodes on Lee Miller and getting fitted for boots, but never saw the final product. How do they fit? Do you wear them often? How about a little revisit?
You think long & hard about exactly what you want before commissioning, then you wear them and take care of them for the rest of your life. If you pay $5,000 for a pair of bespoke shoes that last 30 years, that works out to $166.67 per year - call it $200 including maintenance costs. Or you could buy a $200 pair of shoes that don't fit half as well, and need replacing every year, at an ever increasing price due to inflation. As an example, something that cost $200 in 1990, would increase in price to $396.04 by 2020, just from inflation. Having done the math, if you bought a pair of $200 shoes in 1990, and replaced them yearly, with the price of said shoes increasing only by inflation, over 30 years you would've spent $9281.39 - and would still need to buy a new pair of shoes. On the other hand, a pair of shoes that cost $5,000 today, would've cost $2,525.01 in 1990 (adjusted for inflation). Add a grand to that for resoles & polish, you end up at $3,525 spent... Bespoke shoes may be terrifyingly expensive in the short term, but in the long term, they can work out considerably cheaper than "buy and replace" shoes...
Kirby, you didn't mention your monk straps, chukka boots, or opera pumps, lol. I would probably get the lazyman wholecuts and the burgundy loafers, maybe in pigskin. I am a huge fan of smooth leathers, but maybe it will grow on me as I expand my own collection. As for bespoke, I would love to have my first pairs made from Antonio Meccariello and John Lobb London.
How about some high quality work boots? Not that I'd expect to see you at home depot buying build materials every weekend but you probably do small repairs at your home or maybe build/fix stuff with Nathaniel as a bonding event.
My suggestion for a new pair of shoes is actually a three shoe suggestion: The Arca (two eyelet derby), The Arca Boucle (Arca Monk Strap)and The Twin (Arca double monk strap) all from Pierre Corthay. From all your shoes, I'm not in favor of the monogram shoes.
Wait, does this mean you have deacquisitioned the other shoes in your collection like the tuxedo pumps or the monk straps? Hoping you will do a video on matching masks to your outfit since we're likely to be wearing masks for at least the rest of the year.
Love this! Question though: aren’t the “mock cap-toe adelaides” actually “mock cap-toe semi-brogues”? My understanding of adelaides is that they have the U-throat... this looks like a semi-brogue pattern. Thanks!
Well people constantly must be reinformed by all VALUABLE information about shoes and shoes care.....I knew a Japanese guy which 30 years ago was accepted in high level of merchandise trading transactions at millions level business market ....ONLY BECAUSE WAS WEARING BESPOKE SUITS AND IMPECCABLE SHOES....with time those fashion attributes become more acquired by the people.....just of course with guys like you Kirby Allison who promotes and fight for quality and determination of presenting again the valued garments and tools of the well dressed man‼
I'm not really into bespoke shoes at all, but it's wonderful being able to listen to someone explain his hobby and area of expertise so well.
I can’t remember the last time I ironed a shirt or polished shoes but I like these vids too …
Same 😂
The way you describe each pair of shoes...it's like a parent talking about his/her children. You can tell you have a genuine passion for this...as if the fact that you have dozens of pairs wasn't telling enough.
dude has a foot fetish, not to mention his gae only fans acc. where he plays with bespoke b.plugs
I only have Jordan’s and Nike, but love watching your channel.
Buy some Allen Edmonds. I resell J’s and Yeezys. I love wearing mine, but try these. They’ll change your aesthetic and make you feel great. :)
If you’re looking to get into good quality dress shoes. I’d recommend Meermin Mallorca. They are offered at a much lower price than Allen Edmonds, but still are very well made and offer an extreme value for the money .
Go get an Oxford black captoe.
@@chris5k132 most people don’t dress in a way that makes that a viable option.
dress shoes deform your feet
I'm just venturing into the realm of shoes, and I have to hold myself back from splurging every once in a while. When I achieve bespoke, I'm sure it'll be a lovely milestone. Thank you for sharing, Kirby!
Your presentation is now so very slick and confident, Kirby. I hope you never get mugged: they’d take the shoes and, leave the wallet behind!
My first pair of quality custom shoes, I got a black cap toe oxford. I got that on a made to measure modified last. Got pretty lucky with those. They fit so well you get that whoosh of air as you put your foot in with how well they fit.
I’m fortunate enough to have finally reached that point in my career where I can afford my first pair of bespoke shoes. I have tremendous trouble with my feet so I feel like it’s a priority over any other type of bespoke item. After watching your videos with all the different makers, I am convinced that a pair of cap-toed Oxfords like the ones Dominic Casey made for you are my ideal starting point. Let’s just hope he has the availability!
If your’ feet give you trouble then you may wish to consider a pair of Derby style shoes as these offer a greater degree of adjustment to allow for feet swelling a little if you have been walking a lot, particularly in hot weather. One other thought is that often people with foot problems choose a very light & flexible pair of shoes, but these offer little support. Some foot problems are better served by a fairly stoutly constructed shoe which, once fully broken in, will be very comfortable but also offer the additional support required.
@@jonathanhicks140 very thoughtful comment - thank you. The issue though is with my heels as they protrude slightly, so it takes so much longer for the heel of the shoe to stretch and soften enough so it’s not putting pressure on my heel. Thankfully the rest are completely fine
This has been wonderful Kirby! And I want to say that it is also nice to see that you know how to wear a tie in regards to a proper length...so many people get this aspect of tie wearing wrong. Excellent!
I’m glad you have many pairs of black shoes. Black is my favorite color for shoes (maybe it’s because I’m 61). Too many UA-camrs don’t like black shoes. Thank you for being independent that way.
Kirby, I'll give $75 for your entire shoe collection. Act now, because this offer won't last long!
Lol. 😅
Ratio wise that wouldn't even get you a single nail on one of those shoes lol.
@@Pshen2p well that window is closed, but if Kirby ups it to $110, maybe I'll reconsider :)
@@Pshen2p a nail? That wouldn’t even cover the shoelaces let alone a shoe lol
At 5 months later, this was just too hilarious 😆 a read. Well done Sir!
I was in West Tennessee visiting family a few years back. We had gone to this small locally owned restaurant. This elderly man and his wife came in. What caught my eye was his black/white wing tips. These shoes were awesome and the only shoes like them I had seen was in the movie The Untouchables. This man had a three piece on with the pocket watch put in the watch pocket and he had a really fancy cane. I went over to him after they sat down and I introduced myself. I told him that I thought his shoes were great. I asked him where he got them. He laughed and said "son, I bought these in Memphis back in the 40's and I have polished them every week since." His shoes literally looked like he had just bought them, that's how clean and well kept his shoes were. I told him that I have wanted a pair for years but only Doc Martin made them with a boot sole. He laughed and told me good luck in my search. I have been to a lot of shoe stores and everyone that works there just looks at me like I am crazy if I ask if they can get them.
Trying googling something like "spectator shoes black and white."
Those last 17 seconds are my exact thoughts everytime I look at my collection.
The whole cut mock Brogues. I love them
Amazing collection Kirby! It does become addictive collecting quality shoes.
24:57 "Not a particularly expensive shoe, probably retails for less than $400" :D
Bespoke shoes can go from $2000-$10,000 depending on maker and material... Some shoe trees cost $400 so when that's your whole collection that comment is an understatement 😅
Kirby, it is great to see, how passionate you are in this video. i watched so many of your videos, but this one is special
I have been wearing good shoes since high school. I was in a shoe store in Hammond, Indiana. The owner came out with a tan pebble grain and he said; "these are shoes". I was hooked. There was a Church's English Shoes on Wabash in Chicago near Central Camera. I bought many shoes there and I still wear them. Kerry was the owner. He was great to talk to about shoes and taught me about quality. I liked your split toe derby Reindeer.
Those George Cleverly loafers are stunning!!
His shoe collection is enough to make someone shoegasm!!
The shoes that I really looking forward to try some day are Brown Suede Cap Toe Oxfords. maybe only not the plain cap toe, but with adelaides.
Crazy as it is, I have maybe 10 pairs of vintage 80's white Capezio jazz/dance shoes. I love how the sole and heel is very low profile...I'm not a professional dancer, I just love the shoes. Dont ask me who started my obsession with these shoes...you'll be surprised. 😊
Thank you for your passion and dedication. I have learned a lot about shoe care and how to shop for shoes.
I only have 1 pair of shoe but i still love the channel it feels so calm
As I work in a less formal industry here in the UK, my quality shoes and boots (a few divisions lower than yours - mainly Cheaney and Crockett and Jones) tend to be brown. So I'm always interested to see your black cap toe Oxfords, as I style I wouldn't invest in myself.
I love split toe Derbys though and those Cleverley Russian Reindeer shoes are the dream. Beautiful.
Thanks for sharing your incredible collection Kirby!
C&J and Cheaney very respectable and will last. Bespoke is should be for those with bottomless pockets, addiction, odd feet while most of us will be fie with RTW and MTO
* talks about any pair from the collection *
- It's one of my favourite pair of shoes!
(Really reminds me of the way I talk about my shoes :D )
I am retired and live in south Florida so I normally wear casual loafers for most activities. By the way, if you walk along Worth Avenue in Palm Beach all you will see men wearing are Italian-made loafers. My favorite right now are loafers made out of crocodile skins. You should consider this kind of material also. Everybody says that they are the most beautiful shoes that I have. Both pairs that I own I was able to purchase "gently worn" on Ebay. Otherwise, I could never be able to afford them as they cost over $1,000.
I have never seen so many shoes in one place in history haha. Great video. 👍👍
It’s a little frightening to seem them all together... normally, they are split between the office and home, so I rarely see them all together also!
Imelda Marcos called. She said that is a lot of shoes. Lol.
Well done Kirby. I liked the suede captoes by Mr. Casey the most. He’s a great artisan. I also thought the whole-cut lazymans were a great idea for travel.
This is going to be another of your classic videos. Nice!
Got to admit, I just grew an affection for suede shoes. I could not figure out how you're going to wear the Casey suede shoes. Rather, what wardrobe. Got to say, you knocked it out of the park!
I should not be so inspired by watching your channel... But I have made compromises! I can't quite do bespoke, so I "settle" for made to order 😂 OH! Then, the trousers, the jacket, the shirt, the tie.....
Kirby is the Imelda 👠 👞 in the relationship 😂
Love your channel mate ~ keep the content coming 🇦🇺
After a while of collecting you will began to find your style and I see that you have. I am more of a European long toe type of guy and I prefer this cut on boots shoes and slippers .
Nice.. the most detailed shoe talk i ever see..great shoes..
I love these shoes! Such a class!
ALMOST UNGODLY! GODLY because I WANT ALL OF THEM!
With this much a shoe collection. You surely never have to repeat wear a pair at maybe once a month maybe or longer. For the average guy starting out with barely even a good first leather pair, it’s tough as that shoe gonna get worn lots! However, a damn nice fine collection. A son would be proud one day to walk in his dads literal shoe steps.
I'm not a suit or dress up kind of guy. I wore dress clothes or required dress for many years. I'm comfortable in jeans and an untucked button up or polo shirt. I still wear Metal Band t-shirts too. Kirby is still awesome!
The brown suede Dominic Casey shoes look really good on you and you remind me to look after shoes properly.
At the end with the miscount: Hi I'm Kirby Allison, I like to help the well dressed with their wardrobes... so I can feed my shoe addiction :D It's how we all finance our hobbies, right?
Great collection, Kirby!
I’m not much into suits and dress shoes, but I have a pair of bespoke work boots from a local manufacturer and they’re the best boots ever.
I've just discovered this channel and I have to say, I wish I'd found it sooner. Great content
You should work with Steve from Bedo’s Leather Works
ua-cam.com/video/evZNRerSMHE/v-deo.html
I’ve got 60 odd but my shoe seller has well over 100 pairs! None are bespoke like yours though but they are still of high quality. I think the slippers don’t offer great value unless you buy from one of the Spanish makers.
Your’ collection is admirable Kirby, but seems to be largely city style shoes, so perhaps you ought to consider a good heavily built country shoe next for out of town, particularly in bad weather (i.e. when you are back over here in the UK). Maybe get experimental with a Veldtschoen construction perhaps. If you do then they may well be an heirloom for your’ children - as they do tend to last…..
Kirby, as always, great video and fun to enjoy getting to see your collection. A question for you, and you may have addressed this before, you didn't show any monk straps?
I'll admit, out of a personal collection that rivals yours in numbers (not quite up to your quality standard yet, so thank you for what you said about off the peg) I only have two pairs of monks, one of them by Edward Green in burgundy is a favorite of mine.
Thanks for the tour. You might check out Bedo's Leather Works to bring your black suede Belgian loafers back to life. He does amazing work.
I LOVED this. At this time I stick to Allen & Edmunds but in the future plan to add some bespoke shoes to my closet.
I think a dark green suede loafer may be sharp. Possibly a new Baron De Rede
You could always try some classic English Northampton bench made shoes I personally like churchs there are lots of very good quality options grenson, Barker's, cheaney and on a budget Loake all decent quality very reasonable prices the full bespoke always seems a little crazy personally as I don't think any bench made shoe is really as comfortable as a decent sneaker anyway and I no longer work in an office environment.
Personally I think you have gone overboard but this is your passion and hobby. I collect classic cars and some think that is stupid. For my shoe comfort I have 4 pairs of custom orthotics made by my foot doctor. Plaster casts were made of the bottom of my feet. I only buy shoes where the factory insoles can come out and I put my custom orthotics in to replace the factory ones. All of my shoes, boots, ice skates ski ski boots fit perfectly. I advise that for everyone to do.
We all have ur obsessions, mine being stringed instruments (guitar, banjo,Ukes). Your videos are so relaxing and interesting, and I have worked on all of my shoes, and bought new since starting to watch you. 21 parries of shoes? Hmm at peak I had 23 guitar effects pedals. Never say too many when its something we like. I can see you value all things sartorial. Do you ever dress down to say denim, or lumberjack shirts, chinos, trainers?
Exquisite collection Kirby!
I just applied for a job at a shoe store because of this video 😮
The black loafers, are certainly a favorite of mine. As a young fellow I feel it would be fitting. I may have disliked the boot, maybe I would have to see it. However ,for me, the boots brown suede and then brown or burgundy calf wasn't very appealing-not something I would buy per say.
Great video!
Your taste is impeccable. I love your comment.
Good evening Kirby :
I would add something with a heavy patina work , something more daring (Maybe its because I’m from Italy and i love to wear shoes that express my way of being outgoing)
Anyway Amazing collection , hope to see you around here in Milan after this emergency situation is over.
appreciate your dedication to style and quality but as I get older these old paradigms become less important to me. happy to discuss further .
Your Dominic Casey shoe is the most beautifil. That is of course my very own subjective opinion. I personally haven't understood all the hype around the chiseled toe shape. Although a lot producers offer a "classic" round toe, most of them look rather flat, as there is little room in the toe box. Carmina's Forest last has a nice shape, but you usually find this refined "old school" classic toe shape only in the higher end of the market.
Nice show collection! But you really need to give em some love!
The chukka boots are probably the only pair of dress shoes I would actually get used to wearing the foster and son's shoes I could wear .
The three shoes I'd get based on your collection would probably be:
1. Any shoe in pigskin
2. A lazyman in pewter gray calf
3. Oxfords in replica reindeer
I won't be able to cross into bespoke territory but I've seen a lot of great MTO designs out there.
I know it is very intrusive but how much money would you guess your shoe collection cost you. The joy and excitement they give you is beautiful and very refreshing to see
Kirby, I very respectfully recommend you try a pair of two eyelet Arca Derby shoes for your next bespoke piece. Regards
The chukka boots resonate with me as they do with those many of us from the Steve McQueen end of the style world
Those medium brown cap toe Oxfords are the prettiest by far
I would add:
-Sur mesure Berluti Andy
-wholecut Silvano Lattanzi norwegian welt
-corthay arca
I'll gladly take those Burgundy wholecuts off your hands, Kirby :)
Actually find more use for that colour than black, personally because I can pair it with lots of grey shades.
Yeah. I should wear them more often, probably. I’d like a burgundy semibrogue made. I agree - it is a very versatile color.
Kirby has made me fall in love with Burgundy shoes. So versatile. And they pop!
I was wearing nothing but black. I recently got into burgundy. I like it! I like using the Saphir Bordeaux polish to emphasize the purple notes of the burgundy. Purple is my favorite color besides black. So I don't know why I didn't try burgundy sooner.
@@jennoscura2381 Thanks for the Bordeaux tip, will give that a try!
What an absolutely lovely. I absolutely love the Dominic Casey shoes. I would not say the toe shape is traditional, rather that it pays homage to traditional rounded toes. It reminds me of Gaziano and Girling GG06 Last, but with even more shape - beautiful. Also, really like the GC loafers in burgundy (non-alligator ones).
It seems like something you could use is a bit more browns, like a nice dark brown or medium-dark brown. Were it me, I might look to add one of the following (in no particular order):
1. Dark Brown, quarter or half-brogue, Oxford
2. Mid to Dark Brown Derby Calf-Skin with a stitched apron
3. Mid to Dark Brown Suede Split Toe Derby
4. Mid to Dark Brown Suede loafer
5. Brown Chelsea Boot
I guess if it were my collection I'd have those 5 in mind just because they seem to bridge the gap from chinos to separates to most non-business suits. The Oxford might work less well with chinos and separates, and shoes 3-5 would not work as well with very dark suits.
Thinking out loud (so to speak), I'd probably have any of those made in slightly less elongated or more rounded toes shapes. Just some thoughts, for what they're worth.
My favourite pair are the Russian Reindeer Split-Toe Derbies. Love the design.
Your next pair should be an oxblood cap toe. John Lobb or Dominic Casey. That's my 2 cents anyway.
My favorite is definitely the one from Dominic Casey, then the Croc from George Cleverly, though I would have it in formal shoes instead of casual - it could be a little bit of a more exquisitely shaped formal design, but not in casual style. I do like the mock brogue from GC.
Like you, I look for unique material that the few boutiques could sourced for - deerskin with historical value is great. What I am not keen on is the few repetitive design, especially with the casual ones - I prefer something that are out there such as Cothay, and Westminster (i believe) from GC. Also having too many formal captoe can get boring.
You should get a longwing blucher, I consider them to be a must... Great vid!
Impressive collection Kirby. You are the Amelda Marcos of the USA.
Not enough shoes to even come close.
As far as collections go, it's a very good one, very nice, thank you for sharing, lucky wife x
The burgundy crocodile loafers 🐊🔥
Very much enjoyed rewatching this video. I may be wrong, but not sure you showed a punched toe-cap oxford in your collection. You will be aware of the John Lobb catalogue Keikari have placed on the internet, and I was impressed with most of the men's shoes. This probably dates from the 60s, but what they entitle a "Plain Oxford" seems more reminiscent of the 30s, when punching was if anything more common than single or double stitching on the cap. I think I actually prefer it (though most of the punching nowadays seems a bit small to me - New and Lingwood seems about the best on rtw).
I did not even know deerskin shoes were a thing. That pair should be in a museum, not a closet. Just beautiful, I've never seen a leather skin like that before. Price???? 10K??
I'm surprised you don't wear the burgundy whole cuts as often nowadays, I think I like that one the most in your collection. Do you think you'll expand into different colors besides the burgundy/black/and browns? I think you got a navy blue chukka some time ago, but would be cool to see you try out some other more uncommon colors and combinations!
I think a spiral cut wingtip in Oxblood or black would be a nice addition to your collection.
You don’t seem to have any monk straps or Chelsea boots which is a little surprising, I would go for one of them for your next choice unless you don’t like them.
Kirby need some advice. Have bought a few pairs at your recommendation I am struggling a bit sliding a lot is that part of the process I grind when I am on hardwood or tile it’s sliding everywhere does that stop as you wear the shoes more or is there any advice on how to make them less dangerous lol
The thumbnail..HAHAHA
Best one yet 🤣
Says it all... lol
Impressive collection Kirby! The Baron de rede alligator skin shoes were definitely my love and hate pair. Im not a fan of the colour, versatility and price, given you rarely wear them. But, I do love the texture, the elongated style of the shoe and how the little "squares" refract light at different angles. If you could do it all over again, would you change the colour? and just out of curiosity, would you consider wearing them with no-show socks, navy blue linen/cotton/silk/wool blend suit over a white Friday polo in summer? Thanks
Hey Kirby, Watched your episodes on Lee Miller and getting fitted for boots, but never saw the final product. How do they fit? Do you wear them often? How about a little revisit?
Very nice collection! Good to see that you wear them also. Question though - do you have to sneak purchases past your wife?
I ONLY wear dress boots, you can just do so much with a boot and I love how they feel
Gorgeous and exquisite shoe collection. I just wonder how does one wears every pair and utilize them to great length to make it “worth the price.”
That is a problem only millionaires have. Lol.
@@lastwhtknight3002 LOL. I have 30 hats and I mainly rotate 7 hats out of the 30, but hats are less expensive than the bespoke shoes.
You think long & hard about exactly what you want before commissioning, then you wear them and take care of them for the rest of your life. If you pay $5,000 for a pair of bespoke shoes that last 30 years, that works out to $166.67 per year - call it $200 including maintenance costs. Or you could buy a $200 pair of shoes that don't fit half as well, and need replacing every year, at an ever increasing price due to inflation.
As an example, something that cost $200 in 1990, would increase in price to $396.04 by 2020, just from inflation.
Having done the math, if you bought a pair of $200 shoes in 1990, and replaced them yearly, with the price of said shoes increasing only by inflation, over 30 years you would've spent $9281.39 - and would still need to buy a new pair of shoes.
On the other hand, a pair of shoes that cost $5,000 today, would've cost $2,525.01 in 1990 (adjusted for inflation). Add a grand to that for resoles & polish, you end up at $3,525
spent...
Bespoke shoes may be terrifyingly expensive in the short term, but in the long term, they can work out considerably cheaper than "buy and replace" shoes...
Kirby, you didn't mention your monk straps, chukka boots, or opera pumps, lol. I would probably get the lazyman wholecuts and the burgundy loafers, maybe in pigskin. I am a huge fan of smooth leathers, but maybe it will grow on me as I expand my own collection. As for bespoke, I would love to have my first pairs made from Antonio Meccariello and John Lobb London.
How about some high quality work boots? Not that I'd expect to see you at home depot buying build materials every weekend but you probably do small repairs at your home or maybe build/fix stuff with Nathaniel as a bonding event.
Hi Kirby -- Thanks for the informative videos! Question: Do you recommend or use rubber shoe sole overlays [toppers/vibram/etc] to prolong sole life?
I would recommend black or cordovan tassel loafers next. I think they look great with suits.
My suggestion for a new pair of shoes is actually a three shoe suggestion:
The Arca (two eyelet derby),
The Arca Boucle (Arca Monk Strap)and The Twin (Arca double monk strap)
all from Pierre Corthay.
From all your shoes, I'm not in favor of the monogram shoes.
Amazing collection of amazing shoes!
Kirby you are on a par with Imelda Marcos!
The thumbnail is every well dressed man's fear😂
That is very funny.
Don't have to worry about a nagging wife if you don't have a wife!
@@jennoscura2381 Exactly!
@@jennoscura2381 why? my wife always says,
you like those shoes, get them.
@@louiscyfer6944 Your wife is 1 in 10,000! 🤣
Wait, does this mean you have deacquisitioned the other shoes in your collection like the tuxedo pumps or the monk straps? Hoping you will do a video on matching masks to your outfit since we're likely to be wearing masks for at least the rest of the year.
would love to see one pair of 85's mint, just chillin in the background...
Very nice. Now let’s see Paul Allen’s bespoke shoe collection.
Love this! Question though: aren’t the “mock cap-toe adelaides” actually “mock cap-toe semi-brogues”? My understanding of adelaides is that they have the U-throat... this looks like a semi-brogue pattern. Thanks!
I loved burgundy alligator shoes Kirby, I usually buy the most expensive shoes cause I think that the more expensive the better quality is
My suggestion for a new shoe: Dark brown or a dark oxblood wing tips.
Well people constantly must be reinformed by all VALUABLE information about shoes and shoes care.....I knew a Japanese guy which 30 years ago was accepted in high level of merchandise trading transactions at millions level business market ....ONLY BECAUSE WAS WEARING BESPOKE SUITS AND IMPECCABLE SHOES....with time those fashion attributes become more acquired by the people.....just of course with guys like you Kirby Allison who promotes and fight for quality and determination of presenting again the valued garments and tools of the well dressed man‼