Update (3/11/2023): Kolari Vision is now selling protective magnetized plates for the R5/R6 to avoid the cosmetic scratches shown in this review. Each plate costs $5, and would absolutely be worth adding-on if buying these filters. I tested the new plates and they work fine.
I got the filters because of your video! I also bought the protective mag mount for my R5 so now I don't have to worry about scratching the interior. Totally worth the $5 for the piece of mind.
Main downside is well, putting anything near your sensor. Those little abrasions you mentioned might be shedding minuscule particles that will then fall on your sensor. Best case is you just clean your sensor. Worst case is the metal bits scratch your sensor while cleaning. And I never change lenses with the sensor pointed up since dust can easily fall onto the sensor.
How are tiny, microscopic particles worse than what floats around all the time? You don't change lenses with the sensor pointed up? Good for you. I don't either. I shoot with mirrorless, so the sensors pick up trash with almost every lens change.
@@joegrossinger3381 The sensor in the EOS R5/R6 have a shutter curtain which closes and protects the sensor as soon the camera is shut down for the very reason of minimising dust and particles exposure. That protection won't work if particles are being shed and released while using a clip in filter.
@@csound55 i use eos R, and eos RP, even the R have that feature and RP does't, the R still have pick micro dust on the sensor as the RP did, i been use mirrorless since Olympus E - PL1 and yes, did the same thing. So this shutter closes just for peace of mind, not entirely solve the mirrorless problem.
i aggre with this comment. Sensor is the most expensive, important and delicate part of the whole camera. I have an A7C and now i tried just touch the plastic part above the sensor to see what happens and well, I left an imprint that was very difficult to remove precisely because that part is not meant to be touched. For now this isn't the best option. I will go for matte box as holder for filter with square filter cause i shoot also video. In this way no problem with the sensor naked. The only part that i will touch will be the filter naked that cost 80$ not 1000$.
The particles coming off the camera body are going to be hard paint or metal particles that will scratch the sensor surface, the particles in the air are more likely to be very fine dust that is not hard (hence why they can float in the air instead of falling to the ground) and much smaller than the paint/metal particles so much less likely to damage the sensor. Also, the filter can obviously move a tiny amount when in use, constantly scratching off particles when you're using the camera, and these particles would then be falling onto the sensor or onto the filter surface whilst you are using the camera (not just when swapping the filter as with dust in the air), so dust specs on your images could be constantly changing throughout a shoot. Canon need to bring out an RF filter holder (same design as the EF to RF filter holder, but for RF to RF).
These seem very cool. I personally might get one of the diffusion filters. Have some of their drop in filters for my EF-RF adapter and they are great! Kolari seems to always be innovating.
Great review. I wish you'd thrown a light source into the frame of your test shots so we could see how the different levels of diffusion look. I'm not sure if I should get the 1/8 or 1/4. Depending on the brand, sometimes 1/8 diffusion doesn't really register enough diffusion, but sometimes they're more than enough.
The downside of clip-ins that most people don’t realize is that any filter placed between the lens and sensor will shift the focus point of the lens inward. The thicker the glass in the filter the more the shift. Instead of being in focus on distant objects when set to infinity, the lens will have to be set to 3m or 6m perhaps to reach infinity focus. That shifts the lens element spacing off what it’s designed to operate at and so alters the optical performance of the lens. Corner aberrations can blow up. With ND filters where you are shooting with the lens stopped way down that might not be noticeable. But astrophotographers like to use clip-ins for light pollution reduction and shoot with lenses fairly wide open, but then notice how the stars now look awfully distorted at the corners. The level of aberration increase depends a lot on the model of lens. But some are so bad they can’t be used with clip-ins. At least not for astro work. And it’s always worse with wide-angles. With wide-angles there can also be a color shift across the frame as the amount of color correction depends on the angle of the light passing through a typical light pollution filter, which varies a lot across a clip-in filter with a wide lens. Thanks! I enjoy the channel!
Thanks for the informative presentation. The product looks promising at the first glance but potentially it may become a money pit because it is brand and model specific, particularly for shooters with more than one camera brand and model? Also, a lot of cameras out there don’t have the sensor curtain like the R5 & R6? Good idea and product, I would do more researching and look for user comments. Thanks again for the introduction.
Great program! Thanks for this informative episode. I shoot Nikon. Found these filters for the Z7 and Z6 series cameras with B&H. These filters should work great for protecting the exposed sensors on mirrorless cameras.
Thanks for the review Todd. I’d love to get away from the screw on circular filters but I can see a very expensive mistake happening with accidentally touching the filter to the closed shutter curtain.
I have an IR conversion by Kolari and have been impressed by the quality of their work, service, and products. I'll be interested to see how these hold up in the long term use.
I'm toying with the idea of buying a used R or RP and sending to Kolari to do the IR conversion. Can you give me some of your thoughts so far on the conversion and the results? What camera did you get converted...what options, etc? Thank you in advance! CC
@@chilecayenne I got a Rebel T5 converted with the 720NM filter. The process was stellar, their communication and work quality were both above my expectations, and the results from a photo standpoint are just what I was looking for. I have yet to test it for portrait work, but all the landscapes I have shot have been great. Two were even good enough to justify getting prints done. Can't recommend them enough!
I've tried the Kase version. And judging from 6:24 this is not free from image degradation either. So I guess these things don't have a place in the market. I'd rather do swabs at the begining of every important shoot than having a less than ideal glass blurring my images.
My potential red flag issue is that it sounds as if the filter could come dislodged during rough handling or say while driving (e.g. safari vehicle), leading to a catastrophic failure of the mechanical shutter. Also, not always a good idea to remove a lens when in the field, due to blowing dust, sand wind, etc. Finally, the abraded spot on the body frame, might reflect light back onto the rear lens element and then into the image. There is a reason the internals are matte black. If my first and third concerns are not valid, this is an interesting product -- something that would be great for my bulbous 8 mm or oddball filter size lens. Of course, no matter how good they are, they can't replace polarizers, graduated filters or any other filter that must be rotated or offset to achieve the desired effect.
Also if it’s easy to remove by just bumping the camera, is there enough room between the camera and the lens rear and mount circumference to bump the filter out of position?
What happens if you jar/hit the camera with filter and lens attached? Can filter come loose while behind the lens? Also, seems it would be very easy to forget the filter is still inside the camera.🤣
Thanks for the review. I shoot with the RT and I'm in the market for some ND filters in fact, I have three freewell magnetic filters in the cart on Amazon right now so I was going to jump at this...until I saw the price. Holy cow that price is overwhelmingly expensive!
try putting on these filters when you're out shooting landscapes, when weather conditions could be unpredictable, maybe wet and drizzling, windy, dusty etc etc...
So if you bump the body with the lens on (while pointing it down) will the filter bounce around? For example when I pair it with my Peak Designs Clip 3 facing down will the filter become dislodged. Also seems like you’d have many more opportunities to let dust and elements into your sensor. I like the idea and weather sealing has always been important to me and it’s the reason I didn’t get the EF to RF filter adapter… I wish there was a solution with no drawbacks for bulbous front element wide lenses
I am going to get this for my wide angle Sigma lenses alone. So if you got a Sigma 14-24 f/2.8, Sigma 14mm f/1.8, or any fisheye lenses like I do, this is your ANSWER!!! :D
8:38 can't you just add a little bit of black duct tape there to prevent the filter from scratching? That's what i would do now, if i bought the filters :D But i don't think i would like to open up the camera every time i want to take the filter out, so i don't think it's a good idea. Especially making long exposures in windy conditions, that's gonna get tons of dust particles inside the camera, or even worse, inside the lens! Not worth the trouble.
I tried a clip-in system like this - not magnetic - on my Sony (from Haida). It was useless, though. I pretty much always introduced dust onto the sensor when I installed them.
An interesting idea...but I don't like the notion of constantly removing the lens to change filters etc. I think it could lead to other issues such as dust ingress. I'll keep using my tried & trusted Lee 100 filter system. I have several thousand $$ worth of filters and they don't let me down. I personally think it's a novel idea. I'm assuming the system is only for the R5? I use a 5DsR and don't plan to change. Thanks for your balanced review.
Can I please ask if you experienced any ghosting or reflection issues, which is common with front lens filters with light at certain angles ? I stopped using front filters because of ghosting and bad reflections when shooting hand held video with movement. If these clip in filters don't suffer from that because they are behind the lens that would be a very significant difference.
Hi Todd,I enjoyed your presentation of Kolari. I am eager to switch to filters over sensor. It has lot of advantages. I have 2 little concern on Kolari. I am not a technical person. But as a photographer I feel the following 2 concern. If you know please provide clarification. I am watching STC, Kolari and Kase. I will buy from one of the 3 brands. For Kolari my 1st concern is this, since with a small shake the filter drops on your palm, when attached could it sometime drop on the end part of the lens - when the whole camera gets an unintentional shake or mild drop? 2nd concern, can this tiny magnetic piece interfare the electronic circuit around the sensor?
The magnet is too weak, the filter wiggles, and that paint abrasion is dust. How about Canon cutting to the chase and making a purpose built provision for in body filters?
What's the effect of layering a screw on diffusion filter in front of a clip-in diffusion filter? Hopefully just similar to a double strength effect, 'cause that's what I'm planning to do once I buy this 1/8 black mist clip-in for a subtle consistent look, with the option of adding 1/4 black pro mist or other screw-on effects filters.
Interesting, no idea. Sounds like the kind of thing you should thoroughly test to see if stacking negatively impacts detail/sharpness or image quality in general. Could get weird if using different brands and types of diffusion (black, glimmer, snow, etc).
Hmmmm, if it would be clear, i could change the lens without turning off the camera. Its acting like a protective window. But could lower image quality.
Just found your channel. I shoot Canon - I use the RP, but I would like to upgrade to the R6. My only worry is that the images from the R6 with 20mp wont be as good as the RP with 25mp - I was also looking at the R5 but I don't need 8k - and its a little high in price - Any advice you could offer ?
It depends on how pronounced you want the effect to be. 1/8 isn’t obvious to the average viewer. A lighter touch. 1/4 is heavier and more noticeable, with more glow around lights and softer skin. I tend to think of 1/4 as more a creative filter for getting a specific look. I prefer 1/8 cause it takes just a little edge off.
Am I the only one who really wished it to be perfectly awesome but now is shocked on how bad the quality remains?!! I mean color chart or not - if you look at those pictures even the logo "Color Checker Video" is so blurry with the filter. Almost as if this was a softener filter instead of an ND one. Plus: You don't have to measure each and every of the squares to see the color shift. Simply look at the shirt - it's definitely more cyan. That could be corrected easily but the softener effect - horrible, unusable (for me!)!
This product is a really bad idea; look at all of the dust that are on his filters.....lol This was a very lazy review/as; why didn't you show real world use with these filters? Instead you stay in your bedroom or whatever that was and show us a few nonhelpful clips.
Update (3/11/2023): Kolari Vision is now selling protective magnetized plates for the R5/R6 to avoid the cosmetic scratches shown in this review. Each plate costs $5, and would absolutely be worth adding-on if buying these filters. I tested the new plates and they work fine.
I got the filters because of your video! I also bought the protective mag mount for my R5 so now I don't have to worry about scratching the interior. Totally worth the $5 for the piece of mind.
@@onlysublime cool! Would love to hear your impressions and how well they work for you.
awesome to hear
Main downside is well, putting anything near your sensor. Those little abrasions you mentioned might be shedding minuscule particles that will then fall on your sensor. Best case is you just clean your sensor. Worst case is the metal bits scratch your sensor while cleaning. And I never change lenses with the sensor pointed up since dust can easily fall onto the sensor.
Good points
How are tiny, microscopic particles worse than what floats around all the time?
You don't change lenses with the sensor pointed up? Good for you. I don't either.
I shoot with mirrorless, so the sensors pick up trash with almost every lens change.
@@joegrossinger3381 The sensor in the EOS R5/R6 have a shutter curtain which closes and protects the sensor as soon the camera is shut down for the very reason of minimising dust and particles exposure. That protection won't work if particles are being shed and released while using a clip in filter.
@@csound55 i use eos R, and eos RP, even the R have that feature and RP does't, the R still have pick micro dust on the sensor as the RP did, i been use mirrorless since
Olympus E - PL1 and yes, did the same thing. So this shutter closes just for peace of mind, not entirely solve the mirrorless problem.
i aggre with this comment. Sensor is the most expensive, important and delicate part of the whole camera. I have an A7C and now i tried just touch the plastic part above the sensor to see what happens and well, I left an imprint that was very difficult to remove precisely because that part is not meant to be touched. For now this isn't the best option. I will go for matte box as holder for filter with square filter cause i shoot also video. In this way no problem with the sensor naked. The only part that i will touch will be the filter naked that cost 80$ not 1000$.
The particles coming off the camera body are going to be hard paint or metal particles that will scratch the sensor surface, the particles in the air are more likely to be very fine dust that is not hard (hence why they can float in the air instead of falling to the ground) and much smaller than the paint/metal particles so much less likely to damage the sensor. Also, the filter can obviously move a tiny amount when in use, constantly scratching off particles when you're using the camera, and these particles would then be falling onto the sensor or onto the filter surface whilst you are using the camera (not just when swapping the filter as with dust in the air), so dust specs on your images could be constantly changing throughout a shoot. Canon need to bring out an RF filter holder (same design as the EF to RF filter holder, but for RF to RF).
These seem very cool. I personally might get one of the diffusion filters. Have some of their drop in filters for my EF-RF adapter and they are great! Kolari seems to always be innovating.
Great idea. Now instead of leaving a finger print on your front element when swapping filters you can leave one on the sensor.
Or you can be smarter than a dog, and just not touch it!
Great review. I wish you'd thrown a light source into the frame of your test shots so we could see how the different levels of diffusion look. I'm not sure if I should get the 1/8 or 1/4. Depending on the brand, sometimes 1/8 diffusion doesn't really register enough diffusion, but sometimes they're more than enough.
The downside of clip-ins that most people don’t realize is that any filter placed between the lens and sensor will shift the focus point of the lens inward. The thicker the glass in the filter the more the shift. Instead of being in focus on distant objects when set to infinity, the lens will have to be set to 3m or 6m perhaps to reach infinity focus. That shifts the lens element spacing off what it’s designed to operate at and so alters the optical performance of the lens. Corner aberrations can blow up. With ND filters where you are shooting with the lens stopped way down that might not be noticeable.
But astrophotographers like to use clip-ins for light pollution reduction and shoot with lenses fairly wide open, but then notice how the stars now look awfully distorted at the corners. The level of aberration increase depends a lot on the model of lens. But some are so bad they can’t be used with clip-ins. At least not for astro work. And it’s always worse with wide-angles.
With wide-angles there can also be a color shift across the frame as the amount of color correction depends on the angle of the light passing through a typical light pollution filter, which varies a lot across a clip-in filter with a wide lens. Thanks! I enjoy the channel!
I thought the colour panel look a little out of focus...
So how come nobody complained when used on ef to rf adapters with slide in filters which are farther from the sensor?
Thanks for the informative presentation. The product looks promising at the first glance but potentially it may become a money pit because it is brand and model specific, particularly for shooters with more than one camera brand and model? Also, a lot of cameras out there don’t have the sensor curtain like the R5 & R6? Good idea and product, I would do more researching and look for user comments. Thanks again for the introduction.
OH! This is a sick idea for an ND - VERY interested in giving them a shot! Thanks for the video Todd, you killed it as per usual!
Didn't know these even existed. Thanks for sharing!!!!
Abrasion = release of particles near sensor...🤔
Great program! Thanks for this informative episode. I shoot Nikon. Found these filters for the Z7 and Z6 series cameras with B&H.
These filters should work great for protecting the exposed sensors on mirrorless cameras.
Thanks for the review Todd. I’d love to get away from the screw on circular filters but I can see a very expensive mistake happening with accidentally touching the filter to the closed shutter curtain.
I have an IR conversion by Kolari and have been impressed by the quality of their work, service, and products. I'll be interested to see how these hold up in the long term use.
I'm toying with the idea of buying a used R or RP and sending to Kolari to do the IR conversion. Can you give me some of your thoughts so far on the conversion and the results?
What camera did you get converted...what options, etc?
Thank you in advance!
CC
@@chilecayenne I got a Rebel T5 converted with the 720NM filter. The process was stellar, their communication and work quality were both above my expectations, and the results from a photo standpoint are just what I was looking for. I have yet to test it for portrait work, but all the landscapes I have shot have been great. Two were even good enough to justify getting prints done. Can't recommend them enough!
I've tried the Kase version. And judging from 6:24 this is not free from image degradation either. So I guess these things don't have a place in the market. I'd rather do swabs at the begining of every important shoot than having a less than ideal glass blurring my images.
My potential red flag issue is that it sounds as if the filter could come dislodged during rough handling or say while driving (e.g. safari vehicle), leading to a catastrophic failure of the mechanical shutter. Also, not always a good idea to remove a lens when in the field, due to blowing dust, sand wind, etc. Finally, the abraded spot on the body frame, might reflect light back onto the rear lens element and then into the image. There is a reason the internals are matte black. If my first and third concerns are not valid, this is an interesting product -- something that would be great for my bulbous 8 mm or oddball filter size lens. Of course, no matter how good they are, they can't replace polarizers, graduated filters or any other filter that must be rotated or offset to achieve the desired effect.
No, it cant fall into the shutter. Its too big.
Also if it’s easy to remove by just bumping the camera, is there enough room between the camera and the lens rear and mount circumference to bump the filter out of position?
Hopefully, in the future, we see mirrorless cameras with electronic ND filters controlled by the camera like Video cinema cameras.
What happens if you jar/hit the camera with filter and lens attached? Can filter come loose while behind the lens?
Also, seems it would be very easy to forget the filter is still inside the camera.🤣
if it gets loose, it can hit the sensor😮😮
@@tomyrottman8012 Nope, the filter can't hit the sensor. It's too big.
Thanks for the review. I shoot with the RT and I'm in the market for some ND filters in fact, I have three freewell magnetic filters in the cart on Amazon right now so I was going to jump at this...until I saw the price. Holy cow that price is overwhelmingly expensive!
They also offer packs to save some money, but in general yes, they’re on the expensive end of ND filters. Great quality though.
That will be perfectly works for Canon 11-24 that front lent hardware is too big. Well I think so.
try putting on these filters when you're out shooting landscapes, when weather conditions could be unpredictable, maybe wet and drizzling, windy, dusty etc etc...
So if you bump the body with the lens on (while pointing it down) will the filter bounce around? For example when I pair it with my Peak Designs Clip 3 facing down will the filter become dislodged.
Also seems like you’d have many more opportunities to let dust and elements into your sensor. I like the idea and weather sealing has always been important to me and it’s the reason I didn’t get the EF to RF filter adapter… I wish there was a solution with no drawbacks for bulbous front element wide lenses
Always great videos my man
I am going to get this for my wide angle Sigma lenses alone. So if you got a Sigma 14-24 f/2.8, Sigma 14mm f/1.8, or any fisheye lenses like I do, this is your ANSWER!!! :D
8:38 can't you just add a little bit of black duct tape there to prevent the filter from scratching? That's what i would do now, if i bought the filters :D But i don't think i would like to open up the camera every time i want to take the filter out, so i don't think it's a good idea. Especially making long exposures in windy conditions, that's gonna get tons of dust particles inside the camera, or even worse, inside the lens! Not worth the trouble.
Is the image quality the same? The zoomed-in video with filter seems softer and with more CA... or is it just out of focus a little?
I tried a clip-in system like this - not magnetic - on my Sony (from Haida). It was useless, though. I pretty much always introduced dust onto the sensor when I installed them.
I'm just afraid for the sensor otherwise the idea is really good. is there a chance that he will be hit?
Actually Kolari should use some sort pf velvet to avoid scratching. The magnet will still be strong enough
An interesting idea...but I don't like the notion of constantly removing the lens to change filters etc. I think it could lead to other issues such as dust ingress. I'll keep using my tried & trusted Lee 100 filter system. I have several thousand $$ worth of filters and they don't let me down. I personally think it's a novel idea. I'm assuming the system is only for the R5? I use a 5DsR and don't plan to change. Thanks for your balanced review.
It's for mirrorless, RP, Eos R R5 R6 etc. Good on you man, Lee filters are fantastic.
Can I please ask if you experienced any ghosting or reflection issues, which is common with front lens filters with light at certain angles ? I stopped using front filters because of ghosting and bad reflections when shooting hand held video with movement. If these clip in filters don't suffer from that because they are behind the lens that would be a very significant difference.
Why would you use a diffuser and a nd filter?
Have you used these with the RF 10-20 for landscapes?
Wish you spoke on the photo aspect of it
Point well taken. I think I assumed it would mostly be of interest to videographers.
Kase has some similar filters.
can you put 3 filters at once ??
Hi Todd,I enjoyed your presentation of Kolari. I am eager to switch to filters over sensor. It has lot of advantages. I have 2 little concern on Kolari. I am not a technical person. But as a photographer I feel the following 2 concern. If you know please provide clarification. I am watching STC, Kolari and Kase. I will buy from one of the 3 brands. For Kolari my 1st concern is this, since with a small shake the filter drops on your palm, when attached could it sometime drop on the end part of the lens - when the whole camera gets an unintentional shake or mild drop? 2nd concern, can this tiny magnetic piece interfare the electronic circuit around the sensor?
How do these work with In body stabilization
The magnet is too weak, the filter wiggles, and that paint abrasion is dust. How about Canon cutting to the chase and making a purpose built provision for in body filters?
What's the effect of layering a screw on diffusion filter in front of a clip-in diffusion filter?
Hopefully just similar to a double strength effect, 'cause that's what I'm planning to do once I buy this 1/8 black mist clip-in for a subtle consistent look, with the option of adding 1/4 black pro mist or other screw-on effects filters.
Interesting, no idea. Sounds like the kind of thing you should thoroughly test to see if stacking negatively impacts detail/sharpness or image quality in general. Could get weird if using different brands and types of diffusion (black, glimmer, snow, etc).
@@dominey thanks!
I guess I'll find out soon and may report back here. :)
Soooooo intriguing…
What will happen with EF adapter with this filter
Hmmmm, if it would be clear, i could change the lens without turning off the camera. Its acting like a protective window. But could lower image quality.
Can this be used on an RP?
Hi, do you know if there is an specific model for the sony a7iv?
Just found your channel. I shoot Canon - I use the RP, but I would like to upgrade to the R6. My only worry is that the images from the R6 with 20mp wont be as good as the RP with 25mp - I was also looking at the R5 but I don't need 8k - and its a little high in price - Any advice you could offer ?
My advice would be to stick with the RP. it's a great camera and you won't notice any diference tbh.
YAY, dope!
Can you help me decide between 1/8 and 1/4 mist? What's your opinion?
It depends on how pronounced you want the effect to be. 1/8 isn’t obvious to the average viewer. A lighter touch. 1/4 is heavier and more noticeable, with more glow around lights and softer skin. I tend to think of 1/4 as more a creative filter for getting a specific look. I prefer 1/8 cause it takes just a little edge off.
@@dominey thank you! :)
Been using light pollution filters like this for several years now, no problems at all.
Good to know - thanks!
@@dominey Astronomics makes them for astrophotography. I have one for the 5D Mark lll and the R as well.
i see yelloe colour shift
Am I the only one who really wished it to be perfectly awesome but now is shocked on how bad the quality remains?!! I mean color chart or not - if you look at those pictures even the logo "Color Checker Video" is so blurry with the filter. Almost as if this was a softener filter instead of an ND one. Plus: You don't have to measure each and every of the squares to see the color shift. Simply look at the shirt - it's definitely more cyan. That could be corrected easily but the softener effect - horrible, unusable (for me!)!
Sadly this leaves EF full size canon owners in the dust.
it reduces the quality output
Ground breaking! lol!
Engineers call it tolerance.
that pop them off after a bump is dump, now you have finger prints and dust for your next round
For me, a horrible system. I prefer the classic methods by far. Nowadays, with the magnetic filters clip-ins are not worth it.
This product is a really bad idea; look at all of the dust that are on his filters.....lol
This was a very lazy review/as; why didn't you show real world use with these filters? Instead you stay in your bedroom or whatever that was and show us a few nonhelpful clips.
ill probably use canon adapter with drop in ND filter,. and used old sigma lenses 1.4