Steve, that rear end is a work of art! Just a thought, those sealed bearings are intended to run with a 60% - 75% of full capacity grease loading. Excess grease effectively acts like water does when a tyre aquaplanes, it makes the rolling element skate on the tracks which rapidly degrades the bearing. The excess grease loading will also generate more than normal heat as there’s not enough space for excess to occupy, so the extremely viscous grease is constantly forced around. With non-sealed bearings the pack it full by hand method is definitely the way to go. Ex-SBK R&D engineer.
Was just going to post to ask about this, you beat me to the punch with actual numbers. I'm floored, given the cost of bearings and studs that Steve wouldn't just put new in the hubs and leave his old set ready to go if he wanted to swap back later?
Was wondering if someone had mentioned that also. I'm a service tech for a large mower company and we have had a situation where spindle bearings where failing early and it turns out the manufacture of our bearings was putting to much grease in the bearings. It would push out a seal once it was hot and then let moisture in and the bearing would fail. They lowered the grease volume and the failures went away.
@@ChuckChuckBoBuck I'm not criticizing Steve, he does amazing stuff but for reference my old truck has a full floater too. Steve could make those hubs if he wanted to.
From a 30 year twin turbine EMS helicopter Mechanic those sealed ball bearings will be fine even on a drag and drive car. Also, a sealed ball bearing unit should never be packed past 75% grease capacity. A full bearing has a tendency to make the balls skip across the races instead of rolling across the races. That can possibly cause bearing failure. Also food for thought the front of most modern cars and trucks including big heavy 1 ton diesels use sealed unit bearings on the front and they can easily last over 100k miles. Even with big oversize mud tires on them.
Also I'd suspect that the factory grease was a synthetic variety and many times they look under-greased when new....but the manufacturers know what they're doing. I always worry about cross-contaminating greases without being fully up to speed on what is being replaced.
Yep SKF has lots of tech info on their site. Generally, the higher the RPM the less grease needed. The excess grease will escape because " sealed " bearings just have a thin rubber lip facing outwards to keep dust out not an actual inward seal to keep grease in .
Not to mention, those bearings were driven out without access to do so via the outer race... Granted, they weren't a super tight fit but still, I'm now firmly in camp replace with new.
As Steve is educating us on full floating axles and how they work, the sound in the background is a solid block of aluminum being turned into an engine block. That is the sound of horsepower being created. requests that members send him bones-lots of them.
Having the full float brake disc allows it to expand when hot without warping. You see that a lot on motorcycles and road race cars that have extremely hot running brakes.
Bicycles too, same reason, long descent and your rotors get super hot. My Hope discs are actually a stainless surface on an aluminum holder for some extra heat dissipation and less mass
The seals will stay in place since they are just a rubber flap and the excess grease will exit the seal. Generally, the higher the RPM the less grease that is needed. There is a whole science to how much grease is needed in the bearing. SKF has some tech info.
Most of the grease will end up on other side of bearing when it heats up, that's why you only pack one side. New bearing will have one side full and not much on other side.
I was wondering that if the floater feature is only needed during catastrophic event, it wouldn't need to greased much. But high speed makes sense for light pack. Thanks.
Cleaning and regreasing isn’t an issue as long as you don’t pack too much grease in places where contamination can occur on other components when the bearings heat up and expel the excess grease. I grease hub assemblies on all my trucks and cars once a year for the ones that see the most use and abuse
it'll push a bit but not blow *if* there was too much. He put a super reasonable amount of grease in those bearings, and there's no reason to replace a good bearing just because you're afraid of overfilling it
An old dirt track trick on full floater axles, take and mark a straight line from spline to spline when its new, then when doing maintenance ypu can check to see if it is twisting.
About 30 years ago, an ole farmer taughy me how to pack bearings. Never knew until later in life how powerful of a skill that was. Hardly anyone i knew could pack bearings. Like that. The bench top tool works great too. But in the field your hand is the best.
I did thousands of bearings by hand until last year when a pretty young salesman (saleslady?) had the Lisle one on special. I figured I would give it a shot. I do really like it for the speed, but I don't like the idea of pushing the old grease out with the new stuff. It is also hard to inspect a bearing properly when it is covered in old black grease. I clean them up, give them a look over, then repack.
@@--_DJ_-- spend 5 minutes and wipe off all the excess old grease and flush the bearings out using the part’s washer, followed by a spritz of Brake-Kleen, a blow dry holding the bearings cage to prevent it from spinning, and then repack with your Lisle bearings packer.
@gullreefclub Thank you for pointing out the "hold the cage" part of the compressed air step..aside from the fact that a nice dry high speed spin will gall the snot out of a bearing, if the cage lets go the bearings go ballistic and the cage will slice up your fingers like a honey baked ham.. Watched a fellow student do it forty-some years ago..looked painful!
I hope you didn't over pack the bearings. That rear end is a work of art. WOW.... Your Hi-Def video is absolutely incredible and incredible editing... I'm a gear head from Atlanta living in Thailand for 15 years. I was Alan's Performance specializing in Dodge Viper Performance. Thank you for all of the enjoyment and knowledge you have shared. Alan 😎
I was reading through the comments to see if anyone picked up on this (over packing the bearings). Many years ago, when I took my industrial maintenance cert. test, there was a true/false question about overheating bearings packed too full of grease. The answer was true! Those bearings are over packed. He was worried of the service life of those bearings, Having installed thousands of them in some really brutal environments in 24/7 operating plant, those bearings will outlive that car with the minimal grease that came in them.
3rd member is a mechanical work of art. Gotta be rewarding to be an engineer these days. Even with all the high tech - crescent wrench and hand-packed bearings get the job done.
Really cool to hear your appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and engineering that has been put into the components of the wagon. I am sure it’s similar to people that have one of your engines. You have to respect the amount of engineering it takes to produce components that can take the stress everything is put under and survive. It really is awesome
I've got to say the part i enjoyed most about this video was when you were looking at the rear end and suspension. Yes it's top shelf. You kind of took a pause for a second, kind of a moment of self realization. Yes Mr. Morris you made all that happen. And you earned it, congrats. Your are truly a good guy.
It is amazing, that that hub, and rotor assembly is held in place by a snap ring. I was taught the same way, to pack bearings. I am glad, everything, is Dewey approved. Have a good day.
Many videos ago I commented that you needed to put the rear quarters on hinges or 1/4 turn fasteners so you didn't have to waste the time vacuuming out the air in your tires anymore... Look at you go, certainly going to be a game changer with time savings... Hopefully you go over kill with the quick releases to keep em on at your 230+ passes. Keep on posting these videos, it's great to see the way you learn and then show what you learn to us. Can't wait to see billet everything🤙
The disc brake mounting setup is to allow the disc to grow in diameter as it heats up without distorting, the nuts allow the mounting tangs on the disc to slide outward radially. Floating disc.
Followup, you have over greased the bearing. They are factory sealed. Over filling like that will force past the seals in use. In this case the lost grease will be flung outward into your brake rotor. Just put a fresh bearing in with factory grease.
I've packed them like that for 30 years ,absolutely no problems. Have you ever opened up a brand new bearing and seen the grease in them,it's soild grease all the way around. Most of that grease will end up on the other side, that's why you never pack both sides!
The reason wheel bearings are packed full is that once they spin up, the excess grease is pushed to the periphery where it acts as a grease reservoir. There is no room for that in a sealed bearing. If you open up a sealed bearing after it is been in operation you will find the grease pack is about 30% of the available volume. The the spinning balls evacuate a path and the rest of the grease is flung to the perimeter. It cant stay in the ball path. If the bearing is packed full the grease has to go somewhere which means weeping past the seals. This is why industrial motors are limited to a few shots of grease per year. Too much and the excess is flung into the motor windings. In Steves case I can’t imagine even a few skits of grease on the brake rotor wouldn’t be cool
I love that Steve hangs around the shop wondering how things work and fit and geeks out about how cool his car is! Fame and money aside, he's a normal car guy like the rest of us!
Yes he is. He owns that cool stuff because he WORKS FOR IT. Nobody gave Steve Morris nuth'n,, he's earned his status in the high performance automotive world. 🙂
Steve, I'd make the quarter panel removable seam behind the back doors in the wheel well area. That way you might consider having the seal lip for the door and part of the inner wheel well come off with the panel. This would give you more room for tire swap, and hide the removal seam behind the door. And I'd get some new wheel bearings. Is the inside bearing, outer seal exposed to the outside with no additional seal? If so, the grease from it could dump onto your brake rotors. That extra grease you put in could end up finding it's way onto your rear brakes.
Hi Steve, I love your videos! Just a bit of logic on the brake rotor floating on the hub with the slide nuts. The slots allow the rotor to expand as it heats under braking. It also allows the area touching the hub to be as small as possible to prevent heat transfer into the hub and bearings under heavy and continuous braking.
True testament to hard work and dedication pays off in many ways. Growing and learning. Everybody's UA-cam's are different and I for one and many I'm sure are glad you do what you do for everyone. It's cool as hell to see and learn off what you do. Good or bad. Still learning.
What, and miss out on the original mechanic's hand softener? Someday, I'm gonna find a woman who thinks fresh long grain wheel bearing grease smells as sexy as I think it does...
Steve Make yourself a dolly with a cradle to hold the tyre. Even if its an old small trolley jack. Slide it under, lift, push in and tyres on. You could even use those dolleys you use to move the car around the shop on with a screw scissor jack with a cradle on top to hold the tyre. You could then use a battery powerd wrench to lift the screw jack. Easy as pie and 20 mins of welding. If you make it nice you could produce them on the side and sell it with your merch......😂
Thanks Steve you show us things about your car we rarely would see any where else. You are so right that car is beautiful, many had hearts in there throats when it kissed the wall.
I agree with you , that car is beautiful and I really appreciate you showing us the inner most workings. Cars at this level are my dream. Hoping the new wheel tire combo really works out. Many thanks.
Great educational video. Food for thought on being able to mount the tires easily would be to modify an ATV/Motorcycle lift like the ones that they have at Northern Tool.
Steve you might consider making a portable wheel dolly jack that allows you to lean the tire back a little bit to get the angle to roll it into place, have to say that wagon is sooo nice 👍 God Bless
That moment when Steve is taking in how nice the rear end/whole car truly is. That was such a great thing to watch. I'm always in awe at how much money, sweat, work goes into making these cars go this fast and be reliable. Truly a car artist and pioneer. We're so lucky to have people document these things. Keep up the great videos Steve and crew!
Interesting hub design. The super late model stock car I used to run used tapered roller bearings and a nut like a front spindle kind of arrangement. Sounds like you may have seen that design before. For our setup the bearings were greased with a seal just like a front hub, and there were seals at the inboard side of the housing near the ring and pion to keep the oil from going down the tube and leaking out of the hub. And all the oil from going to the right side away from the ring and pinion.
I personally like the design of the rotor bolt 'collar' pieces. I have a hunch it wouldn't be as hard of a metal as the rotor. Have a good weekend Steve!
Looks like a good way to balance the wheel assembly. Notice the assembly turning by itself. { only with the axle out} That's how the old Pontiac 8 lug wheel assembly were balanced
Those rear ends are simply put the best in the business. I have his catalog here at the house, they make some great products and as far as if you’re worried about the hub/bearing assembly you could just get one extra with rotor. It could be used on either side.
If ya gonna use removable guard make your front edge of the removable guard inside the door recess so wind DOSENT get in behind and try to rip it off while on the drag race
Great videos Steve watch all your stuff, you might want some extra clearance side to side for driving at the track on those tires i would think those sidewalls would move some as your going around turns, i realize wheel already has tire stretched pretty far just wonder if it still might move a little, love dewey appreciate you sharing all your knowledge with us.
You can now get ceramic bearings for the floater hub and diff bearings. We are putting them in our front spindle mount wheels on the funny car and getting some for our B&J transmission.
@@jeffreystroman2811 55 years later, I’m still in contact with a few surviving classmates and we agree that we received a quality education from some exceptional people.
Steve, you could incorporate the dog bone by the door into the quarter panel assembly then pin the quarter panel horizontally and parallel to the ground. Design so you pull the quarter panel rearward to release it off the pins. Then open the rear door and you have an open shot for wheel and tire installation. As you won't see any fasteners on the quarter panel installation either.
You need a "Dewey Approved" line of t-shirts. Picture of The Wagon, Sugar Momma or an SMX with a little pic of Dewey's head and the caption "Dewey Approved". That dog it so cool.
Steve....if you hinge the quarter panel across the top it would be a slick way to make easy access to the monster tires. Dzus fasteners work but won't have the rigidity of a full length upper hinge and will take considerably longer to open and close. Just a thought....
Sealed bearings have been used in cars for years. Fwd cars use them, toyota pickups use them in the rear end they work great. In spec miata class we use to run we would take the seal out and clean the grease out of them. Then use redline synthetic grease.
Looks really good. Make sure you measure on the ground when tire is a bit compressed and at race ready air pressure. It might push out a bit further and catch. Im sure you already thought of that, but just in case.
I think those nuts for the brake rotor allow the rotor to grow when heat gets in it, and could potentially keep the rotors from cracking at the mounting point. I like that design.
The 5 on 5" also gives you a better tire option in a pinch say you blow a tire on the drag & drive you got more options to borrow a tire to get to next stop !
Always replace that type of wheel bearings if you remove them! It's almost impossible NOT to damage them when you extract them, because you can't get behind the outer race, and if you push on the inner race you will damage the balls or rollers. And/or the races...☹ Remember, any play in those bearings will be multiplied at the tire surface and could easily initiate tire shake at your power level...😉
Amazing wheel, I’m surprised others who don’t even do drag n drive, just no prep or the 1/8th show with over 3500hp tear the wheel centres out, haven’t seen many change to this style of rim which I believe is needed. Floater might leave the wheel on during an axle breakage but next weakest link is the wheel centre. Great video once again, I never realised how easy it was to pull that axle out. Would make a centre change a very quick deal.
Lock it grab impact remove all the studs then use new or push the bearings out and in then studs. The inserts are for the expansion differences of metals and the operating temps. That is what gets it done for a six second four thousand herspers WAGON.
27:45 It's from years and years of hard work and dedication to making some of the best race engines the world has ever seen. Keep up the good work Steve, we love these videos, it's the highlight of my day when you upload!
If youre going to make the full panel removal, can you weld part of that fenderwell behind the door onto the panel and have it remove as well, so no twisting?
I think there's several reasons for why the rotor is "floating" and has the ability to slide a little, and one of them is probably so when she get's really toasty it has room to grow otherwise it would warp I imagine. Crazy to think the temperature sweep that thing sees in like 10 seconds (ambient temp up to 4 figures of temp, then back down) I bet it grows and shrinks relatively quickly.
Steve, that rear end is a work of art!
Just a thought, those sealed bearings are intended to run with a 60% - 75% of full capacity grease loading.
Excess grease effectively acts like water does when a tyre aquaplanes, it makes the rolling element skate on the tracks which rapidly degrades the bearing.
The excess grease loading will also generate more than normal heat as there’s not enough space for excess to occupy, so the extremely viscous grease is constantly forced around.
With non-sealed bearings the pack it full by hand method is definitely the way to go.
Ex-SBK R&D engineer.
Was just going to post to ask about this, you beat me to the punch with actual numbers. I'm floored, given the cost of bearings and studs that Steve wouldn't just put new in the hubs and leave his old set ready to go if he wanted to swap back later?
Was wondering if someone had mentioned that also. I'm a service tech for a large mower company and we have had a situation where spindle bearings where failing early and it turns out the manufacture of our bearings was putting to much grease in the bearings. It would push out a seal once it was hot and then let moisture in and the bearing would fail. They lowered the grease volume and the failures went away.
you are correct hopfully steve will check this out. thats going to create a ton of heat
That grease is going all over the disc.
See when he pulled the hub off the spill out of the inner bearing seal.
Steve Machines billet engine blocks and is amazed at the simplest part of his car, the wheel hub. 🤣🤣🤣
Agreed
Ya gotta admit though, as compared to a stock type rear diff, that setup Steve has is pretty frickin trick.
@@ChuckChuckBoBuck I'm not criticizing Steve, he does amazing stuff but for reference my old truck has a full floater too. Steve could make those hubs if he wanted to.
Floater rear ends been around a long time. My cousin had one in his dirt track modified race car in the 90's and they were no where new then.
It’s when you don’t see it everyday.
From a 30 year twin turbine EMS helicopter Mechanic those sealed ball bearings will be fine even on a drag and drive car. Also, a sealed ball bearing unit should never be packed past 75% grease capacity. A full bearing has a tendency to make the balls skip across the races instead of rolling across the races. That can possibly cause bearing failure. Also food for thought the front of most modern cars and trucks including big heavy 1 ton diesels use sealed unit bearings on the front and they can easily last over 100k miles. Even with big oversize mud tires on them.
Also I'd suspect that the factory grease was a synthetic variety and many times they look under-greased when new....but the manufacturers know what they're doing. I always worry about cross-contaminating greases without being fully up to speed on what is being replaced.
Agree. Imagine one wheel lock up at 220+mph. Might be bye bye Stevie
Yep SKF has lots of tech info on their site. Generally, the higher the RPM the less grease needed. The excess grease will escape because " sealed " bearings just have a thin rubber lip facing outwards to keep dust out not an actual inward seal to keep grease in .
This also offers a chance of grit added.
Not to mention, those bearings were driven out without access to do so via the outer race... Granted, they weren't a super tight fit but still, I'm now firmly in camp replace with new.
"That's the biggest rear end I've ever seen." 10 min later, Sir Mix alot has subscribed to your channel.
I was thinking KK started complaining.
Oh ok. I've seen some bigger walking around and they didn't even have a wide load sign on back.
Lol
With that itty bitty waist and round thing in your face 😂
Baby got back!
I like big butts lm ao
As Steve is educating us on full floating axles and how they work, the sound in the background is a solid block of aluminum being turned into an engine block. That is the sound of horsepower being created. requests that members send him bones-lots of them.
“Gotta Think About That “
Would make a good t -shirt.
"Pretty Goldarn Cool" as well
I second this motion. Throw in Steve's thinking face and boom! Pure gold.
@@garytull7730between the 2 of you, you might have knocked 2 of Steve's best merch ideas ever out of the park.
Amazing how that 2-piece (seemingly small) axle/hub connection withstands and holds all that power. Cool stuff!
Having the full float brake disc allows it to expand when hot without warping. You see that a lot on motorcycles and road race cars that have extremely hot running brakes.
Heat also stays away from bearings.
Bicycles too, same reason, long descent and your rotors get super hot.
My Hope discs are actually a stainless surface on an aluminum holder for some extra heat dissipation and less mass
Plus the calipers are solid mounted. Something kinda needs to float.
Came here to say the same thing.
also helps with the different expansion rates of the adjoining metals.
Generally don't repack that style seal bearings, too much grease could blow seals out when it heats up.
The seals will stay in place since they are just a rubber flap and the excess grease will exit the seal. Generally, the higher the RPM the less grease that is needed.
There is a whole science to how much grease is needed in the bearing. SKF has some tech info.
Most of the grease will end up on other side of bearing when it heats up, that's why you only pack one side. New bearing will have one side full and not much on other side.
I was wondering that if the floater feature is only needed during catastrophic event, it wouldn't need to greased much. But high speed makes sense for light pack. Thanks.
Cleaning and regreasing isn’t an issue as long as you don’t pack too much grease in places where contamination can occur on other components when the bearings heat up and expel the excess grease. I grease hub assemblies on all my trucks and cars once a year for the ones that see the most use and abuse
it'll push a bit but not blow *if* there was too much. He put a super reasonable amount of grease in those bearings, and there's no reason to replace a good bearing just because you're afraid of overfilling it
Just a reminder to change the wheel that you use for drag and drive! (Bolt pattern) It would suck if you went to an event and found out then.
An old dirt track trick on full floater axles, take and mark a straight line from spline to spline when its new, then when doing maintenance ypu can check to see if it is twisting.
My 1st thought when I seen him looking at the splines, our local dirt track was paved yrs ago, ruined it IMO.
About 30 years ago, an ole farmer taughy me how to pack bearings. Never knew until later in life how powerful of a skill that was. Hardly anyone i knew could pack bearings. Like that. The bench top tool works great too. But in the field your hand is the best.
I always tell people don't be shy, get in there and make a mess. 😂
I did thousands of bearings by hand until last year when a pretty young salesman (saleslady?) had the Lisle one on special. I figured I would give it a shot. I do really like it for the speed, but I don't like the idea of pushing the old grease out with the new stuff. It is also hard to inspect a bearing properly when it is covered in old black grease. I clean them up, give them a look over, then repack.
@@--_DJ_-- spend 5 minutes and wipe off all the excess old grease and flush the bearings out using the part’s washer, followed by a spritz of Brake-Kleen, a blow dry holding the bearings cage to prevent it from spinning, and then repack with your Lisle bearings packer.
@@gullreefclub Yep, that is exactly the routine other than a good inspection after cleaning.
@gullreefclub
Thank you for pointing out the "hold the cage" part of the compressed air step..aside from the fact that a nice dry high speed spin will gall the snot out of a bearing, if the cage lets go the bearings go ballistic and the cage will slice up your fingers like a honey baked ham..
Watched a fellow student do it forty-some years ago..looked painful!
I hope you didn't over pack the bearings.
That rear end is a work of art. WOW....
Your Hi-Def video is absolutely incredible and incredible editing...
I'm a gear head from Atlanta living in Thailand for 15 years.
I was Alan's Performance specializing in Dodge Viper Performance.
Thank you for all of the enjoyment and knowledge you have shared.
Alan 😎
I was reading through the comments to see if anyone picked up on this (over packing the bearings). Many years ago, when I took my industrial maintenance cert. test, there was a true/false question about overheating bearings packed too full of grease. The answer was true! Those bearings are over packed. He was worried of the service life of those bearings, Having installed thousands of them in some really brutal environments in 24/7 operating plant, those bearings will outlive that car with the minimal grease that came in them.
3rd member is a mechanical work of art. Gotta be rewarding to be an engineer these days. Even with all the high tech - crescent wrench and hand-packed bearings get the job done.
I really like that you put the sickweek footage of you and your wife in the opening bit!
Me too
Don’t overpack sealed bearings, the grease churn can and will cause them to fail prematurely.
my gosh the sound of that cnc machine is beautiful. sounds like freedom
They sure do.
I feel the same way about my stuff sometimes and I’m only running 11s. It’s not bragging we are just grateful for what we have.
Really cool to hear your appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and engineering that has been put into the components of the wagon. I am sure it’s similar to people that have one of your engines.
You have to respect the amount of engineering it takes to produce components that can take the stress everything is put under and survive.
It really is awesome
Exactly
Your humbleness is what makes you awesome to watch. You deserve all the success you have coming your way
No need to wonder how you got all those bad ass parts on the car. Hard work great workmanship and beyond stand up guy.
I've got to say the part i enjoyed most about this video was when you were looking at the rear end and suspension. Yes it's top shelf. You kind of took a pause for a second, kind of a moment of self realization. Yes Mr. Morris you made all that happen. And you earned it, congrats. Your are truly a good guy.
It is amazing, that that hub, and rotor assembly is held in place by a snap ring. I was taught the same way, to pack bearings. I am glad, everything, is Dewey approved. Have a good day.
I think the cone holds it, the snap ring is so it does not come off.
Think like a machine tool taper
no cornering loads is one of the reasons this works. cornering loads would use the extra side play to beat it apart
@@Ammoniummetavanadatehe took the snap ring off and it came off with a light tap.
And the small cap with three tiny screws holds the axle in lol
Many videos ago I commented that you needed to put the rear quarters on hinges or 1/4 turn fasteners so you didn't have to waste the time vacuuming out the air in your tires anymore... Look at you go, certainly going to be a game changer with time savings... Hopefully you go over kill with the quick releases to keep em on at your 230+ passes. Keep on posting these videos, it's great to see the way you learn and then show what you learn to us. Can't wait to see billet everything🤙
The disc brake mounting setup is to allow the disc to grow in diameter as it heats up without distorting, the nuts allow the mounting tangs on the disc to slide outward radially. Floating disc.
My grandpa had the same station wagon when I was a kid but it was a lot slower I think
WDYM? This one is bone stock. 😉
Nah, just gotta run the high octane. Be right as rain.
“I think” 😂
Followup, you have over greased the bearing. They are factory sealed. Over filling like that will force past the seals in use. In this case the lost grease will be flung outward into your brake rotor. Just put a fresh bearing in with factory grease.
I've packed them like that for 30 years ,absolutely no problems. Have you ever opened up a brand new bearing and seen the grease in them,it's soild grease all the way around. Most of that grease will end up on the other side, that's why you never pack both sides!
The reason wheel bearings are packed full is that once they spin up, the excess grease is pushed to the periphery where it acts as a grease reservoir. There is no room for that in a sealed bearing. If you open up a sealed bearing after it is been in operation you will find the grease pack is about 30% of the available volume. The the spinning balls evacuate a path and the rest of the grease is flung to the perimeter. It cant stay in the ball path. If the bearing is packed full the grease has to go somewhere which means weeping past the seals. This is why industrial motors are limited to a few shots of grease per year. Too much and the excess is flung into the motor windings. In Steves case I can’t imagine even a few skits of grease on the brake rotor wouldn’t be cool
I think your doggo loves you Steve
I could sit and look at that beautiful artwork of a rear end for days. Stay humble Steve, you deserve it. 😊
Lol at Steve seeing floating rotors for the first time and understanding how it goes together and then, being impressed...
17:05 it’s a floating rotor. Our Super late model had a similar design. Really helps keep things smooth. That rear end is a very nice piece.
We know how your wagon came about. You're the hardest working !!
Thanks for sharing all this info for us!
I love that Steve hangs around the shop wondering how things work and fit and geeks out about how cool his car is! Fame and money aside, he's a normal car guy like the rest of us!
Yes he is. He owns that cool stuff because he WORKS FOR IT. Nobody gave Steve Morris nuth'n,, he's earned his status in the high performance automotive world. 🙂
Steve, I'd make the quarter panel removable seam behind the back doors in the wheel well area. That way you might consider having the seal lip for the door and part of the inner wheel well come off with the panel. This would give you more room for tire swap, and hide the removal seam behind the door.
And I'd get some new wheel bearings. Is the inside bearing, outer seal exposed to the outside with no additional seal? If so, the grease from it could dump onto your brake rotors. That extra grease you put in could end up finding it's way onto your rear brakes.
Do you honestly think Steve needs your advice? Lets be real now😂😂😂😂
@@keegansinclair5144 Well, they are pretty good suggestions, so...
Your appreciation for the cool engineering aspect of even otherwise mundane parts is enjoyable to watch as a tech of all kinds geek, such as myself.
Always loved the way a fully machined billet part looks!!
It just screams quality!!
Steve and Kyle, y'all rock! My dad showed me that method of repacking a bearing 35 years ago. Peace
Hi Steve, I love your videos! Just a bit of logic on the brake rotor floating on the hub with the slide nuts. The slots allow the rotor to expand as it heats under braking. It also allows the area touching the hub to be as small as possible to prevent heat transfer into the hub and bearings under heavy and continuous braking.
True testament to hard work and dedication pays off in many ways. Growing and learning. Everybody's UA-cam's are different and I for one and many I'm sure are glad you do what you do for everyone. It's cool as hell to see and learn off what you do. Good or bad. Still learning.
pro tip wear disposible gloves so u dont get grease on ur hands and u can just take em off and ur clean.
Climax ain’t the same!!
What, and miss out on the original mechanic's hand softener?
Someday, I'm gonna find a woman who thinks fresh long grain wheel bearing grease smells as sexy as I think it does...
lol! no unfortunately all you get is cancer@@zrxdoug
The brake disk mounting method allows the disk (and mounting points) to expand when hot, without putting stress on the hub it's mounted to.
Awesome stuff. That entire car is just badass. Can't wait to see it on the track again.
Love how Dewey has got to be in the picture all the time love that doggo.
Cheers for making these vids mate. You deserve such nice things, simple as that.
Thanks for the explanation of the full floater rear end.
When you put the wheel on, the only thing I could think of at first, was the exhaust nozzle on a rocket engine; VERY similar shape...
That rear end has me amazed. Such a cool design.
Steve
Make yourself a dolly with a cradle to hold the tyre. Even if its an old small trolley jack. Slide it under, lift, push in and tyres on.
You could even use those dolleys you use to move the car around the shop on with a screw scissor jack with a cradle on top to hold the tyre. You could then use a battery powerd wrench to lift the screw jack. Easy as pie and 20 mins of welding.
If you make it nice you could produce them on the side and sell it with your merch......😂
Respect to you and your team Steve watching from England UK keep at it your crushing it
Thanks Steve you show us things about your car we rarely would see any where else. You are so right that car is beautiful, many had hearts in there throats when it kissed the wall.
Really interesting stuff!
Thanks Steve, great video.
I agree with you , that car is beautiful and I really appreciate you showing us the inner most workings. Cars at this level are my dream. Hoping the new wheel tire combo really works out. Many thanks.
Great educational video. Food for thought on being able to mount the tires easily would be to modify an ATV/Motorcycle lift like the ones that they have at Northern Tool.
That is exactly how I was taught to pack bearings. Still do today, it never fails.
Thank you for constantly showing people how great being humble is.
That Williams rear end is stunning. I didn’t have a drag car bucket list but that puppy just got written down under my SMX donk. 🔥🔥
Axle splines at time 218
I see rust from fretting, this needs CV joint grease on a regular basis so the drive flange does not wear out.
lol grease on axle splines. you’re in the wrong hobby.
@@5uprnva Care to explain why this is a bad idea?
Hi Steve. Pro tip: always loosen and tighten rotor bolts in a criss cross pattern
👍
Steve you might consider making a portable wheel dolly jack that allows you to lean the tire back a little bit to get the angle to roll it into place, have to say that wagon is sooo nice 👍 God Bless
Probably just use the floor jack. Maybe make a little saddle for it?
Thumb up for you being enamoured by how nice your rear setup is ❤️
That moment when Steve is taking in how nice the rear end/whole car truly is. That was such a great thing to watch. I'm always in awe at how much money, sweat, work goes into making these cars go this fast and be reliable. Truly a car artist and pioneer. We're so lucky to have people document these things. Keep up the great videos Steve and crew!
Awesome buddy can’t wait to see the wagon back in action
Thankyou for the bearing repack tip!
Love hearing that mill running in the background!!
Floating rotors are used to equalize pad pressure on both surfaces for applications with rigidly mounted calipers. Extremely common on motorcycles.
That's one nice rear-end and a Great looking car. See hard work will pay off
Interesting hub design. The super late model stock car I used to run used tapered roller bearings and a nut like a front spindle kind of arrangement. Sounds like you may have seen that design before. For our setup the bearings were greased with a seal just like a front hub, and there were seals at the inboard side of the housing near the ring and pion to keep the oil from going down the tube and leaking out of the hub. And all the oil from going to the right side away from the ring and pinion.
Appreciate the detail you show, very interesting
Assuming the hub is aluminum, you could have stuck it in an oven at 250-300 and the bearings would come out with a lot less beating.
Looks great Steve now all can’t wait to see your car again on the track.
The wagon needs a wide body kit. 😊
I personally like the design of the rotor bolt 'collar' pieces. I have a hunch it wouldn't be as hard of a metal as the rotor. Have a good weekend Steve!
Steve officially owns worlds most expensive Didgeridoo
Looks like a good way to balance the wheel assembly. Notice the assembly turning by itself. { only with the axle out} That's how the old Pontiac 8 lug wheel assembly were balanced
Those rear ends are simply put the best in the business. I have his catalog here at the house, they make some great products and as far as if you’re worried about the hub/bearing assembly you could just get one extra with rotor. It could be used on either side.
If ya gonna use removable guard make your front edge of the removable guard inside the door recess so wind DOSENT get in behind and try to rip it off while on the drag race
Those are floating discs/brake rotors, they alleviate heat distortion.
You were taught right on the packing of the bearings.
Great videos Steve watch all your stuff, you might want some extra clearance side to side for driving at the track on those tires i would think those sidewalls would move some as your going around turns, i realize wheel already has tire stretched pretty far just wonder if it still might move a little, love dewey appreciate you sharing all your knowledge with us.
You can now get ceramic bearings for the floater hub and diff bearings. We are putting them in our front spindle mount wheels on the funny car and getting some for our B&J transmission.
I learned to pack bearings like that in high school auto shop in 68. Thanks Mr Sloulin.
Mine was Al Zubbrichi at Marple Vocation School, PA, thanks Mr. Zubbrichi
@@jeffreystroman2811 55 years later, I’m still in contact with a few surviving classmates and we agree that we received a quality education from some exceptional people.
Steve, you could incorporate the dog bone by the door into the quarter panel assembly then pin the quarter panel horizontally and parallel to the ground. Design so you pull the quarter panel rearward to release it off the pins. Then open the rear door and you have an open shot for wheel and tire installation. As you won't see any fasteners on the quarter panel installation either.
You need a "Dewey Approved" line of t-shirts. Picture of The Wagon, Sugar Momma or an SMX with a little pic of Dewey's head and the caption "Dewey Approved". That dog it so cool.
Steve....if you hinge the quarter panel across the top it would be a slick way to make easy access to the monster tires. Dzus fasteners work but won't have the rigidity of a full length upper hinge and will take considerably longer to open and close. Just a thought....
Sealed bearings have been used in cars for years. Fwd cars use them, toyota pickups use them in the rear end they work great. In spec miata class we use to run we would take the seal out and clean the grease out of them. Then use redline synthetic grease.
Looks really good. Make sure you measure on the ground when tire is a bit compressed and at race ready air pressure. It might push out a bit further and catch. Im sure you already thought of that, but just in case.
Steve is in his happy place figuring things out. You are right, that rear end is a thing of beauty.
I think those nuts for the brake rotor allow the rotor to grow when heat gets in it, and could potentially keep the rotors from cracking at the mounting point. I like that design.
rearend/4 link all 30-40k you get wat you pay for great setup. another great video keep them coming
The 5 on 5" also gives you a better tire option in a pinch say you blow a tire on the drag & drive you got more options to borrow a tire to get to next stop !
Always replace that type of wheel bearings if you remove them! It's almost impossible NOT to damage them when you extract them, because you can't get behind the outer race, and if you push on the inner race you will damage the balls or rollers. And/or the races...☹
Remember, any play in those bearings will be multiplied at the tire surface and could easily initiate tire shake at your power level...😉
Amazing wheel, I’m surprised others who don’t even do drag n drive, just no prep or the 1/8th show with over 3500hp tear the wheel centres out, haven’t seen many change to this style of rim which I believe is needed. Floater might leave the wheel on during an axle breakage but next weakest link is the wheel centre. Great video once again, I never realised how easy it was to pull that axle out. Would make a centre change a very quick deal.
Cool Stuff! Thanks Steve!
Lock it grab impact remove all the studs then use new or push the bearings out and in then studs. The inserts are for the expansion differences of metals and the operating temps. That is what gets it done for a six second four thousand herspers WAGON.
I love it when a plan comes together. As Always, May God Bless you and yours! 😇
27:45 It's from years and years of hard work and dedication to making some of the best race engines the world has ever seen. Keep up the good work Steve, we love these videos, it's the highlight of my day when you upload!
Thats a nice clean rear end. Nothing that goes through one winter up here in the salt belt looks that clean. Lol
If youre going to make the full panel removal, can you weld part of that fenderwell behind the door onto the panel and have it remove as well, so no twisting?
I think there's several reasons for why the rotor is "floating" and has the ability to slide a little, and one of them is probably so when she get's really toasty it has room to grow otherwise it would warp I imagine. Crazy to think the temperature sweep that thing sees in like 10 seconds (ambient temp up to 4 figures of temp, then back down) I bet it grows and shrinks relatively quickly.