The most comprehensive, detailed, and informative tuning/dyno presentations ever compiled. Appreciate the continued videos and of course no video is complete without Dewey making a casual or deliberate cameo. Cheers!
Most people call those little screws on the metering block "idle mixture screws". I like the term "idle volume screws" because they control the volume of the emulsified fuel/air mixture from the idle/transition well to the idle port below the throttle blades. So they control the volume of emulsified fuel/air, not fuel, precisely.
Take his advice as gold, and these engines will survive years at this level. I've been following him for decades, and I've built a similar setup to this at my home because of his builds Ive read about as a child. I have a 565 cubic inch big block Chevy with an F-1X Procharger that I street drive with the same 77/58 tooth pulley combo that he tried in this video with my timing locked at 30. I also have a 46 tooth blower pulley if Im able to use more. I haven't pulled my engine in 8 years. I appreciate the lessons he shares with us, and I'm thankful to enjoy the rewards of the knowledge that hes always shared with us for free. Expect brutal power. Good stuff
Thanks again Professor Morris for yet another great lesson 😊 your passion for teaching is Awesome love the longer Video !!! Keep up the Amazing Lessons!!!!
Great instructoral video for beginners. I've always preferred carburetors. They are smarter than what people give them credit for. If running boost, they act like intercoolers. I'd like the spec's ondy engine tho. Great video as usual.
Steve awesome video as always , i really like those carb tuning tricks for dialing in a performance/ racing carb . Ive got a AED 975cfm Holley that was built by AED for my Shafiroff racing 427sbc
For fun i googled smx engines an found a few people saying its not reliable an is a hit or miss so i had to drop some truth on them lol i told them that steve cares more about his engines in customers car than people know every evnt hes at an hos engines are their i noticed he takes time to check on how they doing or if they need help with a tune they also brought up the viper smx i also brought up tye fact that steve gives a wealth of knowledge an info to anyone i dont have a race car but if i did i would want a Steve Morris engine in caise i know 75% of it was made in house an assembled by hand an care
There’s always going to be negative people. I don’t think there’s nearly as many SMX’s out there as there are people claiming they’re junk. At the end of the day basically any race engine making that kind of power is going to break stuff and have problems. Even at “only” 2,000hp it’s still easy to break stuff.
Of course there great engines look how busy he stays and it’s the same people buying more or doing refresh’s he had his very first engine on here not long ago it was like 22 years old there is gonna be negative people wherever there is success.
Anyone complaining about a race motor not lasting, does not have valid expectations. If they build it to be race enough, it will only run for a few miles. (and endurance could be the only complaint. Im sure every motor is tested.)
Steve is the type of guy who sells things HE wants to be proud to own; You are paying for your problems to be his problems; He takes it very seriously. Anyone making noise is doing just that, making noise. If Steve built something that failed; I bet he would take it personally, and make it his mission to help his customer.
I agree. A touch rich on idle is way more responsive. Neutral or a hair lean gives that delayed gag then jumps. Its all within 1 second but that's the difference between competing or going home
@@wobblysauce probably. Unless you need to jump in traffic. That gag could be a bad situation. Even a daily. Go a touch rich. My 81 f-100 300 straight 6 is almost right for where I live. All I have to do is flip the breather cover for summer and winter.
Thanks Steve and Kyle, you guy never cease to amaze me with the amount oh hps you guys get out of these engines , just waiting to see more on your sml blocks 😎👍🏻
first engine I turbo'd was a 80 kawasaki kz750 four with the original carbs. I wore the screws out on them by the time I got the jets right! bought special drill bit set, extra jets. even soldering them shut and re drilling
For someone like me, who has yet to do his FIRST BLOW THRU anything.....that is about three semesters of HOW TO MAKE HORSEPOWER, but be happy when you get less! I met Mr. Morris, when I came out to 131 last year to get a look at the wagon. I told him then, and it still stands...."if I ever got in a position to buy some power like this...I know where I am going". I know it's not an LS...and that's the point! I would leave it just where he ended, and in my MONZA'S, or 78 Malibu, or S-10 Blazer, or my 68 Impala, you couldn't cut the smile off my face. Quote: power is easy, making it live is the hard part!
The amount of information, and the things that this will trigger that I had forgotten or things I’ve never know it all, and every other conceivable combination… I am just beyond grateful for the quality and amount of content!!
Got a custom built Pro Systems Dominator a couple years ago. Had fuel leak issues and didn’t want to idle. After taking it apart it was nothing like the supplied build sheet said it was supposed to be. It was basically a stock 1050 spec carb. It didn’t perform any better than my home built carb did so I Sold it at a swapmeet. Bought a custom Braswell carb that works well but no better than my old carb built by me outta Holley/QFT parts from yrs ago. Go figure. Guess I’ll put together my own carbs from now on….
Awesome video and makes me want one of these Blow Thru Procharged setups even more! As soon as I saw your carb leaking I got flashbacks haha. When I received my carb from them it leaked from every orfice possible. The Needle and seat didn't even have gaskets installed. It made the dyno tech pretty frustrated with me while I tried to fix all of them. Not to mention one of the locating pins for the float bowl on the metering block was completely bent and fell out once the bowls came off as if the pin wasn't seated properly when someone cranked down the float bowl bolts. Contacted Pro systems and all i got was a "Sorry ill let my guys know to be more careful".
Oh F man that sucks. Youd think you spend top dollar for a custom carb and get a teeny bit of support Keith over at AED gives the best customer support Ive ever experienced. Hands down the best ever! Real patient guy wants every customers car to be its best. Not used to that still lol
Fun day tuning, the second pulley set, was good, it dropped the mid range torque bump which is good, that area can be the one to hurt bearings, and break other stuff.
Back in the day (way back), Gale Banks made 350 SBC dual blow through turbo kits. The fuel pressure was controlled by a special mechanical fuel pump with the control line going to what was the ambient side of the diaphragm. The 850 Holley was modified with throttle shaft seals. Boost was bled off when the throttle closed under boost with a simple valve located in the special air horn. However, these could no way reach the HP/cu. in. this monster has. The highest HP street kit only produced 600 HP from 350 cu. in. (5.7L). The 700 HP version was not recommended for the street. This implies the situation could have benefited from modern turbos and better heads. The max boost was about 7 (if I recall correctly), so that was a major limiting factor, as the kits were designed for a stock block. Also, 7,000+ rpm was not an option.
THANKYOU STEVE n SON , you have a fantastic setup there and are great at speaking to us normal people. I'm a basic guy in Oz and I'm learning the finer things to get my next ride running properly, I'm more turbo rather than blower but things might change. Thanks guy's
Lovec blowers fora few reasons...driven many Turbo cars but neverb uilt one. Afraid Id get greedy keep cranking boost up til I popped the engine. Im that idiot
Hey Steve, I’m looking to put a ProCharger on my 565 and this is a lot of great information!! Thank you for your experience and help! I will be giving you guys a call within the next couple of days to figure out the right combination for me!
The other thing with the cards is, watching UA-cam on a television, is usually most tv's don't have an option to "display cards". All mobile phones usually do however. Another banga video. Thanks chaps. 😅
They are called idle mixture screws. Not idle air screws. They do not change the amount of air in the idle circuit, only fuel coming through the IFR jets. Tip in is controlled by the transfer slot exposure/fuel, and the accel pump cams, and lastly squirter size.
Idle fuel screw. Back off a half turn makes it richer. Open an idle air screw a half turn, which makes it leaner. You almost had it correct, you correctly called it a fuel screw but started calling it an idle air screw again.
My friends dyno , he installed a gas water tank and pumps hot water through engine pre fire up. He says he get work done faster and less cold start fowling and wash down 😊 i helped him plum it . Bunch or ball valves.
too Funny at 38 Mins this thing is makin Steve Scratch his head on every pull LOL! Men and theyre Machines thanks fer the Smiles and Knowledge on this this Video Mr.Morris
Added bonus of carburetors. Once you get them setup correctly the plugs look perfectly safe. And once you get to that point you know exactly how you can lean on it bit if you need it. Love your videos, Steve. 👍
Steve flexing his knowledge on this one. quick question, those idle adjustment screws dont back out in the car with solid mounts/poly mounts? thanks for schooling me in carbs today!
It would be great to know the manifold air density with the different pulleys combos, Gale banks has a set up that would be of great help with extra data.
I attribute that tip in stumble to the low manifold vacuum caused by a “bigger” cam. I reduce the air bleed a bit more and close the idle screw a bit. Same idle mixture but a richer tip in. If you don’t go too far it will run smooth through tip in and not tank fuel economy.
What i find funny is that the oil pressure drops at peak revs and Steve says 'i'm going to add a quarter', i'm a dickhead that has driven the same camry for the last 20 years, but I would expect the oil pressure of that engine to drop slightly at max revs. it's still over 90 P.S.I. That pressure looks perfect to me (who is just a key board warrior). Thanks for the content Mr Morris
Have you tried during a Morse test on your Dyno? I.e. dynoing engine full pull, and then pulling off individual plug leads and retesting to see what power drop per individual cylinder? Stock)ish) smallblocks usually make about 6 - 8 % better power on the middle cylinders, than the end ones - especially the rears I'm sure most know why..
Great carb/boost tuning information and much appreciated. I am in Canada , and for what I do EFI is too expensive here , thus I use carburetors. Many thanks.
Admire your work . I know you weren't concerned with the oil Pressure as RPM increased , I have had 2 similar experiences with 540 big blocks & it was the Milidon Pick up that caused the issue ? .
My blow thru turbo liked 11-12:1 afr WOT and 12-13:1 cruising with iron heads but my buddies with aluminum heads was happy with 11:1 cruising and 10 wot. Soon as i saw that fuel pressure on the graph i said….aint got no gas in it😂😂
Where were you 10 years ago. You actually take the time to “overexplain” ( which I am accused of all the time , refrigeration tech) to make sure even the weary understand. You sir , are the man!!
So I've decided to run my ~650hp n/a BBC carb'd, I had it fuel injected(FAST meh), had an engine fire, re-built it myself (first re-build I've done), I want to go holley terminator this time but want to make sure the motor is healthy first so I'm going to toss a slightly small 800cfm carb and a standard HEI distributor on it and run it for a summer and just not push it past 5k rpm: so to get to the point my buddy says, put O2 sensors and an AFR guage in for carb turning (makes sense), do you think its a very good idea or is checking plugs every few drives good enough?
I'm sure I missed it but what cubic inch motor is this and compression just curious as you said your running pump gas. Great video nice to see some expert information on a carburetor from you.
So it's the idle mixture screw. Not the air screw... Not if it adjusts the fuel level. (Motorcycles get both. If it's by the bellmouth on the intake side it's idle air open it up to lean the idle. If it's on the engine side it's the mixture screw and will add gas when opened.)
IRD carburetor is the best I went to buy one ..i wish I did now All the young people and old around me love fuel injection But I love different wanted to build a engine with IRD carb and a haltech VMS
Steve, havent had time to watch yet so... On an sbc mechanical pump w/Holley, it would use a max of 7ish lbs fuel pressure or so no? Would 7 or more lbs boost push back through the needle/seat orings and screw things up How do you handle that situation? Not really into putting EFI on an old car Is the answer to build more cubes and limit boost to 6 lbs?
The most comprehensive, detailed, and informative tuning/dyno presentations ever compiled. Appreciate the continued videos and of course no video is complete without Dewey making a casual or deliberate cameo. Cheers!
Couldn't have said it any better! Pretty sure if you looked up the definition of customer service it's gonna have a picture of Steve!🤣
Tim Nelson is the best
@@ALLGODSDIE Never heard of her.
@@ALLGODSDIEthere’s always one
But still incompetent enough to let the supercharger pull hot air straight from the headers 🤦🏻♂️
Most people call those little screws on the metering block "idle mixture screws".
I like the term "idle volume screws" because they control the volume of the emulsified fuel/air mixture from the idle/transition well to the idle port below the throttle blades.
So they control the volume of emulsified fuel/air, not fuel, precisely.
Take his advice as gold, and these engines will survive years at this level. I've been following him for decades, and I've built a similar setup to this at my home because of his builds Ive read about as a child. I have a 565 cubic inch big block Chevy with an F-1X Procharger that I street drive with the same 77/58 tooth pulley combo that he tried in this video with my timing locked at 30. I also have a 46 tooth blower pulley if Im able to use more. I haven't pulled my engine in 8 years. I appreciate the lessons he shares with us, and I'm thankful to enjoy the rewards of the knowledge that hes always shared with us for free. Expect brutal power. Good stuff
“Who cares, it’s part throttle”. Words to live by right there.
Ahhhh, the mantra when running Hilborns 👍🏼
@@lt1nut a man that "knows"..your post says it all lol
Thanks again Professor Morris for yet another great lesson 😊 your passion for teaching is Awesome love the longer Video !!! Keep up the Amazing Lessons!!!!
Great instructoral video for beginners. I've always preferred carburetors. They are smarter than what people give them credit for. If running boost, they act like intercoolers. I'd like the spec's ondy engine tho. Great video as usual.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. It was very informative and entertaining to see what goes into it. Especially on a blow through setup.
One of your best videos yet! The information was awesome and very detailed.
Great video Steve,, you helped me on my SBC blow through F-1 deal and these videos are tremendous help! Thank u for what u do!!
Steve awesome video as always , i really like those carb tuning tricks for dialing in a performance/ racing carb . Ive got a AED 975cfm Holley that was built by AED for my Shafiroff racing 427sbc
For fun i googled smx engines an found a few people saying its not reliable an is a hit or miss so i had to drop some truth on them lol i told them that steve cares more about his engines in customers car than people know every evnt hes at an hos engines are their i noticed he takes time to check on how they doing or if they need help with a tune they also brought up the viper smx i also brought up tye fact that steve gives a wealth of knowledge an info to anyone i dont have a race car but if i did i would want a Steve Morris engine in caise i know 75% of it was made in house an assembled by hand an care
There’s always going to be negative people. I don’t think there’s nearly as many SMX’s out there as there are people claiming they’re junk.
At the end of the day basically any race engine making that kind of power is going to break stuff and have problems. Even at “only” 2,000hp it’s still easy to break stuff.
I don’t think he’d be still going if they were no good
Of course there great engines look how busy he stays and it’s the same people buying more or doing refresh’s he had his very first engine on here not long ago it was like 22 years old there is gonna be negative people wherever there is success.
Anyone complaining about a race motor not lasting, does not have valid expectations. If they build it to be race enough, it will only run for a few miles. (and endurance could be the only complaint. Im sure every motor is tested.)
Steve is the type of guy who sells things HE wants to be proud to own;
You are paying for your problems to be his problems;
He takes it very seriously.
Anyone making noise is doing just that, making noise.
If Steve built something that failed; I bet he would take it personally, and make it his mission to help his customer.
I agree. A touch rich on idle is way more responsive. Neutral or a hair lean gives that delayed gag then jumps. Its all within 1 second but that's the difference between competing or going home
If Street Car tad lean is fine.
@@wobblysauce probably. Unless you need to jump in traffic. That gag could be a bad situation. Even a daily. Go a touch rich. My 81 f-100 300 straight 6 is almost right for where I live. All I have to do is flip the breather cover for summer and winter.
@@johnnyshell2839bb ñ
Rich is better to compensate for high ethanol/additive gasoline and/or E85
Adjustoing for a stronger pump shot will clear that right up.
Common problem with low vaccum big overlap cams also or not enough initial timing .
Thanks Steve and Kyle, you guy never cease to amaze me with the amount oh hps you guys get out of these engines , just waiting to see more on your sml blocks 😎👍🏻
first engine I turbo'd was a 80 kawasaki kz750 four with the original carbs. I wore the screws out on them by the time I got the jets right! bought special drill bit set, extra jets. even soldering them shut and re drilling
For someone like me, who has yet to do his FIRST BLOW THRU anything.....that is about three semesters of HOW TO MAKE HORSEPOWER, but be happy when you get less! I met Mr. Morris, when I came out to 131 last year to get a look at the wagon. I told him then, and it still stands...."if I ever got in a position to buy some power like this...I know where I am going". I know it's not an LS...and that's the point! I would leave it just where he ended, and in my MONZA'S, or 78 Malibu, or S-10 Blazer, or my 68 Impala, you couldn't cut the smile off my face.
Quote: power is easy, making it live is the hard part!
The amount of information, and the things that this will trigger that I had forgotten or things I’ve never know it all, and every other conceivable combination… I am just beyond grateful for the quality and amount of content!!
Thanks for the Tuning Tips Steve Morris.
I love the carburetor talk.
Fantastic video. This was really neat seeing how you tune a carb then detune the motor some to make it safe/live.
it revs to 5500 and it sounds like its barely trying, yet its putting out 1300hp. Just makes it look so easy to make power. Nice work guys.
I’m 72 and grew up on carburetors. Once you learn the process, it’s left to the individual circuitry. Holly was my preferred brand.
Stay with the long form vid - always entertaining and informative.
Got a custom built Pro Systems Dominator a couple years ago. Had fuel leak issues and didn’t want to idle. After taking it apart it was nothing like the supplied build sheet said it was supposed to be. It was basically a stock 1050 spec carb. It didn’t perform any better than my home built carb did so I Sold it at a swapmeet. Bought a custom Braswell carb that works well but no better than my old carb built by me outta Holley/QFT parts from yrs ago. Go figure. Guess I’ll put together my own carbs from now on….
Awesome video and makes me want one of these Blow Thru Procharged setups even more! As soon as I saw your carb leaking I got flashbacks haha. When I received my carb from them it leaked from every orfice possible. The Needle and seat didn't even have gaskets installed. It made the dyno tech pretty frustrated with me while I tried to fix all of them. Not to mention one of the locating pins for the float bowl on the metering block was completely bent and fell out once the bowls came off as if the pin wasn't seated properly when someone cranked down the float bowl bolts. Contacted Pro systems and all i got was a "Sorry ill let my guys know to be more careful".
Oh F man that sucks. Youd think you spend top dollar for a custom carb and get a teeny bit of support
Keith over at AED gives the best customer support Ive ever experienced. Hands down the best ever!
Real patient guy wants every customers car to be its best. Not used to that still lol
Wow great engine. Thanks for all of the details Steve
Such a good video. Amazed to see a fixed timing amount. I love the learning.
Idle mixture adds/removes air AND fuel air bleeds are air as you said. I personally change IFR if screws are out too much ie 2.5 x out.
Fun day tuning, the second pulley set, was good, it dropped the mid range torque bump which is good, that area can be the one to hurt bearings, and break other stuff.
Thanks very much for the little things that make the big difference.
The HP numbers on that engine climb faster than the National Debt Meter.
Back in the day (way back), Gale Banks made 350 SBC dual blow through turbo kits. The fuel pressure was controlled by a special mechanical fuel pump with the control line going to what was the ambient side of the diaphragm. The 850 Holley was modified with throttle shaft seals. Boost was bled off when the throttle closed under boost with a simple valve located in the special air horn. However, these could no way reach the HP/cu. in. this monster has. The highest HP street kit only produced 600 HP from 350 cu. in. (5.7L). The 700 HP version was not recommended for the street. This implies the situation could have benefited from modern turbos and better heads. The max boost was about 7 (if I recall correctly), so that was a major limiting factor, as the kits were designed for a stock block. Also, 7,000+ rpm was not an option.
Awesome dyno session Merry Christmas to and everyone at Steve Morris Engines . God bless .
THANKYOU STEVE n SON , you have a fantastic setup there and are great at speaking to us normal people. I'm a basic guy in Oz and I'm learning the finer things to get my next ride running properly, I'm more turbo rather than blower but things might change.
Thanks guy's
Lovec blowers fora few reasons...driven many Turbo cars but neverb uilt one. Afraid Id get greedy keep cranking boost up til I popped the engine. Im that idiot
Hey Steve, I’m looking to put a ProCharger on my 565 and this is a lot of great information!! Thank you for your experience and help! I will be giving you guys a call within the next couple of days to figure out the right combination for me!
The other thing with the cards is, watching UA-cam on a television, is usually most tv's don't have an option to "display cards". All mobile phones usually do however.
Another banga video. Thanks chaps. 😅
They are called idle mixture screws. Not idle air screws. They do not change the amount of air in the idle circuit, only fuel coming through the IFR jets.
Tip in is controlled by the transfer slot exposure/fuel, and the accel pump cams, and lastly squirter size.
Idle fuel screw. Back off a half turn makes it richer. Open an idle air screw a half turn, which makes it leaner. You almost had it correct, you correctly called it a fuel screw but started calling it an idle air screw again.
I learn something every time I watch his videos. And I thought I knew a good bit about how internal combustion engines worked.
This is some of the best information about carburetors I’ve seen with a ProCharger
Merry Christmas to all at Steve Morris engines
You don't necessarily have to have gas in the fuel cell for a procharged race engine to make power, but it helps.
My friends dyno , he installed a gas water tank and pumps hot water through engine pre fire up. He says he get work done faster and less cold start fowling and wash down 😊 i helped him plum it . Bunch or ball valves.
Curious what an SMX would make if it was built as a full NA engine big cam,etc
I love it when the parts guy drops a spark plug (still in the box) and hands it to you like there's no way it could be broken. 23:00
25 years ago we were talking bout Blow Thru carbs. Glad they still get their due
“Who cares, it’s part throttle” finely something I already knew. lol. thank you for all your help
I just learned a lot about carburetors that I wish I knew 35 years ago
Very strong engine awesome video...keep living the dream ✨️ Merry Christmas to you and your family
Great carb tech, thanks! I mentioned a few months back because nobody really talks about it anymore.
Great video! Lots of great info on tuning the carb and dialing down a blower motor.
👍
Very cool to see that Steve uses Your Dyno controls and software.
Nice refresher course on carb tuning.
Thanks Steve, I learned something today
I prefer carb on my vehicles just so much easier and I don’t have to worry about electrical issues
too Funny at 38 Mins this thing is makin Steve Scratch his head on every pull LOL! Men and theyre Machines thanks fer the Smiles and Knowledge on this this Video Mr.Morris
Perfect video after a long work day!
Added bonus of carburetors. Once you get them setup correctly the plugs look perfectly safe. And once you get to that point you know exactly how you can lean on it bit if you need it. Love your videos, Steve. 👍
Steve flexing his knowledge on this one. quick question, those idle adjustment screws dont back out in the car with solid mounts/poly mounts? thanks for schooling me in carbs today!
Sunoco has 94 octane in Pennsylvania and it's supposed to be very low ethanol, what it is $4 a gallon regular went down to $3.
It would be great to know the manifold air density with the different pulleys combos, Gale banks has a set up that would be of great help with extra data.
Oops! Making too much horsepower! 🤣🤣🤣 Just don't hear that very often
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I always learn here.
Just want to wish Steve Morris family and crew a Merry Christmas 🎄 I’ve learned a lot watching this channel, Ty
Thanks
Steve, thanks for sharing and educating! Great work Sir! Happy holidays to you, Dewey, your family and friends!
I attribute that tip in stumble to the low manifold vacuum caused by a “bigger” cam. I reduce the air bleed a bit more and close the idle screw a bit. Same idle mixture but a richer tip in. If you don’t go too far it will run smooth through tip in and not tank fuel economy.
What i find funny is that the oil pressure drops at peak revs and Steve says 'i'm going to add a quarter', i'm a dickhead that has driven the same camry for the last 20 years, but I would expect the oil pressure of that engine to drop slightly at max revs. it's still over 90 P.S.I. That pressure looks perfect to me (who is just a key board warrior). Thanks for the content Mr Morris
Why would you expect the oil pressure to drop at max revs? The pump is spinning faster and the clearance on all the bearings remains the same.
Cavitation, and i'm just starting@@bradley3549
could be relief value venting, might even be the fictional loses in the oil line at such high volumes @@bradley3549
It is running out of oil in the pan to pickup. Under normal conditions, it would be gravity fed into the bottom of the pan more effectively.
Do you actually know that? over 90 PSI, hardly running the bearing dry.......
@@joebloggs2635
Love the transition at 12:35
Have you tried during a Morse test on your Dyno? I.e. dynoing engine full pull, and then pulling off individual plug leads and retesting to see what power drop per individual cylinder? Stock)ish) smallblocks usually make about 6 - 8 % better power on the middle cylinders, than the end ones - especially the rears I'm sure most know why..
Flex/distortion is your answer as to why middle cylinder make more power
Great carb/boost tuning information and much appreciated. I am in Canada , and for what I do EFI is too expensive here , thus I use carburetors. Many thanks.
Admire your work . I know you weren't concerned with the oil Pressure as RPM increased , I have had 2 similar experiences with 540 big blocks & it was the Milidon Pick up that caused the issue ? .
Tanks Professor glad school is back in session...
My blow thru turbo liked 11-12:1 afr WOT and 12-13:1 cruising with iron heads but my buddies with aluminum heads was happy with 11:1 cruising and 10 wot.
Soon as i saw that fuel pressure on the graph i said….aint got no gas in it😂😂
Great Video, learned a lot. Thanks,
Where were you 10 years ago. You actually take the time to “overexplain” ( which I am accused of all the time , refrigeration tech) to make sure even the weary understand. You sir , are the man!!
We need a decibel meter in the dyno room!!!
I recently found a cracked spark plug insulator on my SBC by opening the hood in low ambient light. Lots of spark leaks around the boot.
I'd be a bit worried with the 28° all the time: would not this tend to hammer on the crank bearings when idling or cruising around ?
You just need to buy Kyle a car with a carb and make him drive it to work everyday
And make it a quadrajet so he has to work on it more.
would he ever get to work??? 🤣🤣
Thanks Steve loved this one!
So I've decided to run my ~650hp n/a BBC carb'd, I had it fuel injected(FAST meh), had an engine fire, re-built it myself (first re-build I've done), I want to go holley terminator this time but want to make sure the motor is healthy first so I'm going to toss a slightly small 800cfm carb and a standard HEI distributor on it and run it for a summer and just not push it past 5k rpm: so to get to the point my buddy says, put O2 sensors and an AFR guage in for carb turning (makes sense), do you think its a very good idea or is checking plugs every few drives good enough?
Fascinating Steve.. All best xmas new year you and family
Nice result!
Steve Morris, u r sharp. I am learning a lot from u. Thanks for posting.
Love your chanel I am engine guys from my Yong age and I lurn a lot here still tanks for this
Exceptionally informative video, yet again, Steve! Happy Holidays! 👍🏼💯🇬🇺
I'm sure I missed it but what cubic inch motor is this and compression just curious as you said your running pump gas. Great video nice to see some expert information on a carburetor from you.
Your opinion on the willys super bowl systems they are using on dirt cars and will they work with forced induction..
So it's the idle mixture screw. Not the air screw... Not if it adjusts the fuel level.
(Motorcycles get both. If it's by the bellmouth on the intake side it's idle air open it up to lean the idle. If it's on the engine side it's the mixture screw and will add gas when opened.)
Grate Video Love the carborator!👍
IRD carburetor is the best
I went to buy one ..i wish I did now
All the young people and old around me love fuel injection
But I love different wanted to build a engine with IRD carb and a haltech VMS
Another engine at the Steve morris rehab for N02 addiction getting the help it needs great video
Man this is how I like to start my day💪🏼💪🏼
I got questions. Where do you buy fuel pressure regulator with boost reference?
Steve teacher of the trades!! What is old is different than New!!
Steve,
havent had time to watch yet so...
On an sbc mechanical pump w/Holley, it would use a max of 7ish lbs fuel pressure or so no?
Would 7 or more lbs boost push back through the needle/seat orings and screw things up
How do you handle that situation? Not really into putting EFI on an old car
Is the answer to build more cubes and limit boost to 6 lbs?
Spy the AvE sticker! Haha.
wow steve keep doing it the way you been doing merry xmas and happy knew year
What engine is this Steve? Been fighting the valve guide plates breaking on an old school 427 chevy with the big OD pushrods.
Awsome, content love all the differant builds God bless
I really thought i knew everything but that must not be the case. I learned a lot from rhis video.