What's the deal with Shopsmith's 1 1/4" saw arbor?
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: While most table saws sold today feature a 5/8" arbor, Shopsmith continues using an 1 1/4" arbor as their standard, even though they now offer a 5/8" arbor. But why?
Thanks in advance for considering utilizing the links below. They really help the channel!
🟢 Here's an "official" Made in Taiwan Shopsmith 5/8" saw arbor for the Shopsmith Mark V Model 510/520 or Mark 7, from Shopsmith via Amazon: amzn.to/3qciovj
🟢 🟢 This is an aftermarket Made in the USA 5/8" saw arbor for the Shopsmith Mark V Model 510/520 or Mark 7: ebay.us/D9eHZQ
🟢 Here's an "official" Made in Taiwan Shopsmith 5/8" saw arbor for the Shopsmith Mark V Model 500 or Mark 2 or 1960's Mark VII from Shopsmith via Amazon: amzn.to/43bGKUN
🟢 🟢 This is an aftermarket Made in the USA 5/8" saw arbor for the Shopsmith Mark V Model 500 or Mark 2 or 1960's Mark VII from Shopsmith via eBay: ebay.us/8zNx1x
🟢 If you need a new 1 1/4" saw arbor for the Shopsmith Mark V Model 510/520 or Mark 7, here's an original replacement from Shopsmith via Amazon: amzn.to/3ONon4c
🟢 The thin-kerf 10-Inch 40T Irwin Marathon blade has been my go-to multi-purpose 5/8" bore combo blade that's I've been using for years: amzn.to/3oAxvhE
🟢 That said, I've been using this new WEN 10-Inch 40T blade foe a few months now and have been impressed by the value it delivers for 1/3 the price of the Irwin listed above: amzn.to/3oAxvhE
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#Shopsmith #ShopsmithSawArbor #LargeBoreBlade
Whoops! I misspoke at 7:20. I meant to say Taiwan.
Thanks Scott, in a machine like Shopsmith that has built and improved on the same basic machine since the 50s it is interesting to learn the engineering that went into it. By learning the design features, one begins to understand the longevity and appreciate this remarkable machine.
Very interesting. I had heard/read the other reasoning for the 1.25 arbor, but not this one, I don't think. Better performance and stability may not have been the purpose of the 1.25 arbor, however it does seem to be an unintended consequence. At least I feel as if the 1.25 inch blades perform a bit better from a quality of cut perspective. Certainly I reach for those first over the 5/8ths.
I have learned over time what a huge advantage the removeable arbors provide. Non-shopsmith people think it's weird and of course it is. But to have a purpose designed arbor for each type of attachment improves quality. As an example we saw the recent UA-cam video involving superglue help a dado stack make better cuts.
Yep I have a different type of blade loaded on every arbor. On I use mostly the dado arbor because I have several of them. One of my favorite blades I run when cutting hardwood is a thin kerf combo tooth blade for a skill saw. Man it is just shy of 1/16th thick and is like a hot knife thru butter. That Mark 5 just walks thru red oak like nothing is there and makes the prettiest cut. You don't hardly need to sand or anything afterwards. Once I used it to make a box joint on a little jewelry box. It looked pretty wild.
I never knew there was an "official" 5/8 arbor just for saw blades. All these years I've made do with some other 5/8 arbor I have - the one that bangs into the undercarriage. Thanks for the link. I just ordered one. I don't think I would have ever found it otherwise.
Happy to share it with you and thanks for using the link. Scott
Hello! I am from Uruguay and I have a shopsmith in the workshop. It has been stored in the warehouse for many years and I wanted to use it for some wood cuts in the. His engine was having problems so I took it out to send it in for repair. And I was able to realize that there were some elements within the device that were quite particular. Although I always knew the quality of the tool, I had not given it much use. That led me to look for information and I found your videos that have been very useful to me. Once the engine was repaired, I looked in the warehouse for all the elements related to the machine. I found the "edger", a "polisher" extender, supports and guide of the "lathe" and more elements that I do not know their functionality. If you have or know a place to buy a manual, I would greatly appreciate it. Now I am conditioning the "edger" and it is missing 2 screws to the blades. But watching your videos I could find them on Amazon. It has been very useful if I work. Thank you so much. Greetings!!
There have been several manuals, and I would encourage you to make sure you find the one that is exactly right for your machine. You should be able to find those on eBay. I would also encourage you to find a copy of the book “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone?”.
Nice to finally have a definitive answer to this question.
We'll see. I'm always open to "opposing viewpoint from responsible parties".
@@MyGrowthRings I had heard many times about the then-prevalent use of larger diameter arbours on commercial (10”+) saws but the additional patent information detailing the how and why of the blade attachment sheds greater light on their decision.
I’m only fascinated with ShopSmith I would never purchase one, but your knowledge has me watching all of your videos. Your knowledge and conviction for the brand is admirable.
I’m happy to have you one the side of the opened minded.
why would you never purchase one? They are a nice machine and yo can get them used for next to nothing. They still make all the parts for them and all the bearings are standard bearings easy to find aftermarket for dirt cheap. You can make a old machine like new in one afternoon. I picked a a 500 model once for $125 bucks. I painted it in a hunter green and almond white put all new bearings in it and I used it today. If I was looking I would try to get a 510 or 520 as they have far nicer and bigger table set ups. But you can find the basic 510 as ow as $700. I love them but I would never buy a new one because you can get used one so cheap. No way I am spending over $5K on a new one, but you can take every mark 5 made and they can be upgraded to the latest and greatest. They have made over a million machines so easy to find a deal. even in a professional shop there area few features that a mark 5 can do that are nice to have like horizontal boring.
@@jvmiller1995 I also got some good deals on used Mark Vs and painted one Hunter Green. It's such a vibrant shade! With the right jigs-especially a cross cut sled- a lot can be done even with the small table. The older editions of Powertool Woodworking show so many jigs and fixtures. Included are sharpening jigs. After I learned how to sharpen hand saws, I decided to try sharpening old style Shopsmith blades which are still widely available. Now I don't fear boards which have nails. I do make use of non Shopsmith blades with the 5/8 arbor. Auctions are a great source of saw blades at great prices! (new and used).
Very informative video! The review of patents and the technology is fascinating Thanks to Scott! jim
Thanks for the history lesson. I am quite satisfied with the Shopsmith blades.
Glad to hear it and you are welcome. Scott
Always good videos! Thanks. When I bought my first SS, it came with the old "monster" ripping blade, no carbide teeth. That thing is scary. carbide teeth have changed the game. I currently have two SS blades and one Freud. They all work flawlessly when sharp. My son, the contractor, says that a good, sharp blade can change even the worst saw into a very good saw. With SS a sharp blade makes a very good saw a great one. Blessings, Glen
I agree, Glen. Use, that steel blade is a wall decoration, IMHO.
I've been running a Diablo 5/8" arbor blade on my ShopSmith for a couple years now and I love it. The 5/8" arbor is a bit bulky in my opinion compared to the standard arbor, but being able to get any blade from the depot of homes is worth it to me. I like the Diablo blades, they are a good blade at a good price point. the combination blade is about half the cost of the ShopSmith blade.
I am in total agreement with you. I love the Diablo blades. I have made glue joints with boards directly after cutting them with a Diablo blade.
Thank you for the links. Saves much research and frustration.
Thank you for using them!
Interesting to see more history on this. I assumed 1-1/4" saw blades must have been common on industrial machines. My first Shopsmith acquisition included 5/8" and 1/2" universal arbors that were quite useful for the sawblades and other wheels I already owned then and still make use of. I still like the extra heft in those arbors although there may not be much in the way of realized benefit they still 'feel' better.
I also like the mass of them.
I bought a 5/8 arbor a few years ago, and when it arrived, I called customer support to complain. While I was on the phone, I noticed it was the shorter style you showed. What a great design.
Why was you complaining?
Both the 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch arbors I had have a regular nut. I looked at the new one with the large flange and thought it was 1 1/4.
@@nerknerk8834 Oh I understand. Lol it does look a lot bigger more like th 1 1/4"
The 1/2 in is for shaper bits but it looks a lot like the dado arbor. The both those arbors come with different size spacers. On the 5/8 dado you can put the biggest thickest spacer on the shaft first then the blade washer and then the blade with another washer and nut. Then it should clear the tie bar even with the table tipped. The only downside is when you go to move the carriage and headstock you can't just push them together lik you can with a normal arbor. But you can cut a short piece of 2 in PVC pipe and split it and slide over the tube from table to fix this if only using the dado arbor.
Interesting information. I never thought about why the 510 arbor was longer.
I have a blade arbor that I got with my Dad's ShopSmith after his death that has a 2"(?) threaded shaft sticking out from the body that attaches to the headstock. I think it was for shaper cutters. He had a 'standard' 5/8" hole plywood blade mounted on it.
The 5/8" version is known as the Molder/Dado arbor, and I mentioned it around the 5:20 mark. The 1/2" version is a shaper arbor. Scott
Scott… that was interesting. I use all three arbors for different options:
My cross-cutting blade is on the 1 1/8” arbor. My 5/8” arbor is for my Forrest rip blade. And when not set up with a dado blade, its arbor is equipped with a 7 1/4” construction grade Skil saw blade. That comes in handy when doing rough cuts in plywood, OSB, used lumber and other materials that I want to keep away from my “good” blades.
I’ve also found that the dado arbor is great for homemade plywood disks with glued on sandpaper. These are useful when I want to rough grind metal… or freehand chamfer wood edges. It saves me having to change the expensive media on my metal sanding disk as often.
Thanks Scott.
Great information. I remember my dads Black & Decker (all metal) circular saw was a 1 1/4" arbor.
Thank you! for your detailed explanation. I am a new owner of a machine I have wanted since I was 12 years old. Got a smoking deal on it but need assistance getting it in order to use. Let me know if you would be interested. By the the way, I'm currently 61 years old and grew up in Wilson, NC. I've been a mutt since college. Thank you for an OUTSTANDING channel.
Thanks, Doug. I do like whirligigs and you do have one of the best ribeye restaurants in NC near you, so perhaps we could work something out. Toss me an email at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott. Even though the 1.25 inch arbor feels and looks better, I purchased the Shopsmith 5/8 saw arbor many years ago. My personal preference is the Diablo thin kerf blades. Their performance and longevity are fantastic, and they are quiet.
Thanks for all the insight you provide on this great machine. I was doing a 30 degree cut the other day. And put in a molding insert made from MDF. Because I forgot the blade can be moved forward to stay center in the original insert. So when you mentioned a light went off a cus word came out. Lol. I was thinking about reaching out to see if you have a vidoe on doing angles on the table saw. Did I mention I an very new to this machine. Keep up the great work. 👽
I think I've discussed this in a video or two, but I can't recall which one and the stupid way I am encouraged by the UA-cam algorithm to title my videos doesn't help!
@@MyGrowthRings no problem a searching i will go.
If you don't have the original owners manual you need to get one. Also get a copy of "Power Tools for Everyone " by R J Decistoforo. Most every operation the machine is safely capable of doing will be in those documents. If you don't use them for anything else but how to properly setup and alignment, it would be worth the price.
@@curttundra awesome information thank you.
The one 5/8-inch arbor you didn't mention was the dado arbor.
You mean the one I mention around 5:20?
I did not know the real reason for the large hole in the Shopsmith circular saw blade. I still have the one that came with my Mark 5 and I still use it at times. Just used the horizontal drill press on mine here today; been a great machine for my needs for many, many years.
I'm glad to hear it has served you well.
Comments, questions and cheap shots: It’s great having a couple for easy saw blade changes. I Miss these history lessons, have you considered the plastic sharpening jig for a video? And your hands are shaky. There, I’ve done my part.
It's funny that you mention both of those things because I have that jig in my hand yesterday and thought "We need to explore this". Likewise, I don't know what the deal was with my left hand because it was shaking all over and it's never done that before!
Thank you very much. Another well done, informative video. Thank you.👍👍
Thanks, John.
@@MyGrowthRings
Shopsmith history is pretty interesting. That it exists is a testament to the founders, the company and those providing honest content.
I say again, “Good on yuh!”
Thanks for another informative video. I am always intrigued by your explaining not just the how, but the why of things. As a side question, I noticed that Shopsmith does not offer an 80 tooth (or higher) Plywood blade. That might motivate me to acquire a 5/8" arbor just for that.
Ron, I'm not sure why they don't, other than the fact they they aren't as critical as they once were when our blades were steel. I have very good luck with a 40 tooth combo blade, myself. Not the version with the groups of five teeth followed by a large gullet, but the evenly spaced teeth like what you'll find on a Forrest Woodworker II blade. A more budget minded blade can be had from Irwin under their "Marathon" brand. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks 👍
I have picked up 3 used machines and pny have one actual 5/8 arbor but i have 3 dado arbors and as long a you do not tip the table I have had no issue. But I have also used some of spacers they come with for different size dado stacks behind the blade several times before to get the nut closer to the blade and I have never had a issue and you can still tip the table. Lets just say us shopsmith users know how to work with what we have. LOL
So true. I assume that means you don't use a riving knife.
I remember seeing somewhere that the 1 1/4 hole and larger arbor significantly reduces wobble in a blade eliminating the need for a stiffener. I bought the SS blade (combination) and arbor and haven't looked back... I've always been thoroughly impressed with its performance. I've also involuntarily proven the fact that the arbor and blade will not get thrown off. (model 500)
That’s what they say.
Nice video, as usual.
Do you have a way of storing your blades with the arbors attached? I keep my non SS blades in a shop built holder, but they are all flat. I’d like to see an example of someone’s storage solution for their “fleet” of SS blades w/arbors.
Thanks. Yes, in the past I had a very simple rack in a wall cabinet with saw kerf cut with enough space between them to accommodate the arbors. I haven't moved that cabinet into the shop yet, but I suspect it's easy to imagine. Scott
I have a plywood wall on one side of my shop I hang a lot of tools on. So I just put a 2inch drywall screw in at a angle upward and set the 5/8 arbor hole that goes on the mark 5 shaft right over it. I never have had one fall off. My shop smith pushes up against the wall under all the tools when dones.
Great video. I have my Dad's Shopsmith Mk V from 1979. I checked the link for the 5/8" arbor but the part is not available. they had an alternative part but not sure that would fit the older Shopsmith. My Dad made doghouses and sold them and pretty much wore the table saw out so looking into being able to use that and researching any upgrades for the upper saw guard. The upper guard and fingers are a problem - not sure what Dad did to them but the fit is pretty bad. thanks for the video.
It looks like arbor at the link is only temporarily out of stock, there’s another non-Shopsmith arbor available that might be worth considering. I’ll add a link to it. That’s awesome about your dad’s output. I need to make my dog a house!
Terry, I’ve added a link to an aftermarket arbor that is some ways is actually better than an original Shopsmith arbor. How so? Today Shopsmith has the arbor made in Taiwan, while the one I’ve linked to is made in the USA on a CNC.
Great stuff. Was wondering about that arbor situation.
I usually enjoy your videos, but after 5 minutes of listening I finally forgot why I was listening to the video
My wife says I have that effect.
Thanks, I was not aware a 5/8" arbor was available from Shopsmith. Good to know as it's not likely I'll ever find a 1 1/4" blade hole here in Japan. Not that even that matters because my Shopsmith All Purpose Blade has lasted 30 years and is still as sharp as it's always been.
The 5/8" arbor is handy to have on hand when you just need to grab and go with an off the shelf blade on the afternoon that your Shopsmith blade decides to toss a tooth! Not a common occurrence, but not unheard of either. The combo carbide blade that SS provided with the 510/520 is very good.
You will cover cost of shipping and the arbor by purchasing blades at big box store, thus eliminating s/h charges.
It would be nice if they did a 30mm arbour because that is the standard in Europe. I am debating turning a 1¼" arbour down to 30mm, and putting a 27mm left hand thread on it and modifying a 27mm left hand nut to go on it. At the moment I am using a ⅝" arbour with a spacer washer but would rather not be using washers as they have a tendency to go get dropped and roll into a hidden corner of the workshop when changing blades.
I believe that’s the first time I’ve heard that request, but it makes sense.
Since the dado arbor is 5/8, can you run a single 5/8th blade on it or do you need the special 5/8 arbor from Shopsmith? Thanks for an interesting video.
Jim, I address that at 5:10
I always assumed that the larger hole and arbor was to increase the torque to the blade. When you have the traditional belt driven Shopsmith motor up to sawing rpm, the 1/2 hp motor is already in a fairly high gear because when you increase rpm your trade off is reduced torque. That's why the old Shopsmith blades would burn wood so easily. Push the wood too hard the blade slows down and causes burn marks. A 5/8 inch hole would only exacerbate that problem.
I understand that line of thinking, but once the arbor nut is properly tightened, the load isn’t being exerted on the blade by the arbor, but rather buy the clamping action of the arbor nut. It is an interesting thought experiment to think through. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Good point.
Awesome review once again! I kinda wish i havent accumulated all these older arbors that are invariably for older mark Vs (thinking Ive got such a deal!) but actually using exclusively 520/7 sets! BTW since Ive evolved to this retrofitted mark 7 (from a 510 but still have the 520 main table), it was tuff to pass over a second hand mark 7 given away nearby for only $1800! my powerpro costed $1200 and that was cuz it arrived with a craked case! Since ive clearly put as much money would have been nice to have the time spent transplanting and retrofitting all back not to mention the double toothed main table! But I guess i do know the machine better!
You can always sell the old 500 arbors. I’m sure there are people who would love to have them.
I was looking at a 2"x272" (yes 272") belt grinder the other day and everyone I mentioned it to gave me grief because 2x72" are the standard... They wondered about getting belts and whatnot.. Well all the people giving me grief were the same type that complain about the shopsmith blades. They don't understand that just because home depot doesn't stock it doesn't mean it isn't easily accessible.
Too funny! I was just at our local Klingspore store tonight and they would have no problem meeting that request.
Very informative!!!🙂
Thanks!
Thanks
You are welcome.
@@MyGrowthRings i had an idea
I was setting up jointer plane plane blades and found that a craftsman cotter pin extractor is perfect for pulling wedges loose without having to use height adjustment screws to do so took short video . If you're interested let know where to send it
@@arthurmccutchan7000 Smart! Is it one that looks like a bent ice pick, because I have one of those.
Hi Scott, some use a blade stabilizer on blades, (especially thin kerf blades), but a negative to that is it will reduce your depth of cut significantly due to their diameter. The 1 1/4 arbor does cover more of the blade adding some stability due to the blade surface coverage and extra weight and does not reduce my depth. I agree with about the safety benefit as well.
I've heard that argument, and I don't disagree that the larger arbor and hole may offer similar benefits as a blade stabilizer.
I'd like to hear your opinions on those Wen blades.
I know it's not the channel subject, but some of us are interested. I'm always looking for a good deal, and with SS blades at nearly $100, for occasional use the 5/8 might come in handy.
I recently bought the 5/8 arbor from SS, but have so far only run SS blades.
I don’t have enough mileage on them to give a strong opinion, but so far I have been pleased with their performance. They certainly are priced right.
All smart alack comments aside, it proves Shopsmith didn’t Makleki this, and put a lot of effort into making the table saw functions as safe as possible.
Ah yes, the large arbor. I remember the Doug Reid video on this.
What’s in a hole? Does a hole by any other size still spin the blade the same?
Could one go the other direction and fit a ShopSmith blade with a bushing to reduce the arbor size from 1 1/4 to 5/8 so the blade could be used in a standard table or miter saw? Freud makes such a bushing/reducer, just looking for validation on safety/performance of doing this. thanks!
Hey James. The answer is yes, it can be done, but I’m not aware of an off the shelf solution. I had a bushing made for one of my table saws to do just that, but the bushing needs to incorporate a hub, not unlike a blade stabilizer. If not, the bushing will want to slip out under the cupped washer that is normally found under the arbor nut. I like the way you think. Scott
I love your videos and appreciate them tremendously. I have a Shop Smith Mark V 500 that just seems underpowered at the table saw. Trying rip down a 4-foot pine 2x4 takes forever and the saw boogs down badly. I've changed the blade once...wondering if this is normal. I'm 120 volts with 8 ft extension cord. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
@@willpartin622 I recommend checking the tension on the upper belt. They stretch out over time and it really does make a difference.
Spot on as usual!
I did just that and sure enough the belt was loose and slipping under load. Used the slotted slip ring to retention and no more bogging down. Thanks again
@@willpartin622 You are welcome.
I buy Ridge Carbide blades and they offer 1.25" arbor holes.
Ridge is a new one for me. Where do you purchase them?
I just Googled them. Very interesting.
@@MyGrowthRings They were recommended by Stumpy so I gave them a try with his discount. I now have a rip blade, a combo and a plywood/crosscut. I've been very happy with the blades, hence the repeated purchases. Plus they have a sharpening service.
@@danielromans6746 That’s great. It’s sad that so many sharpening services have gone away, we used to have a great one near up that serviced the local furniture making industry, but they closed when furniture production went to Asia.
Just a heads up, it’s Freud…. Like Sigmund Freud the psychologist. “Froyd” if it helps.
Just a heads up, that’s not how it’s pronounced in Italy. Normally, I pronounce it both ways but today I decided to announce the correct way.
@@MyGrowthRings 🤷♂️they are Italians
You don't get good results with a Freud saw blade unless the wood wants to be cut.
@@edmalin7359 Tell me how that makes you feel.
@@Borescoped Jawohl
.....and you do not ever need a blade stabilizer.
Also true.
Why don’t they make the 5/8 arbor standard?
@@TheBockenator It’s just been too long, and as I mentioned, 1 1/4” is superior.
Wasn’t the standard blade at the time 8”? SS introduced the 10” blade.
The 10ER used an 8" blade and the Mark V originally used a 9" blade.
Any way to tell which Shopsmith branded blade I have and who it was made by? I have 2 and have always been curious where they came from.
In all likelihood, no, though if it has “Made in Italy” in a tiny red font, it was made by Freud.
Made by Frood? Freud?
Yes, ever since “Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure” I’ve been a “Frood Dood”!
Hi, I have a totally off topic question. I am going to look at a Shopsmith Mk4. It has seen better days, but the seller says it works. On the assumption it works snd is safe, will (is it possible) the adapters I use on the power head to drive my bandsaw on my 520 fit the Mk4?
By the way I gif the Mk4 and some basic accessories for $100.00. Fingers crossed it is as good as advertised.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Scott. It's likely a Mark V, because the Mark 4 was only just introduced for the first time about a year ago. Yes, all the accessories are interchangeable between all the "Marks", with the only exceptions being the table inserts and fences. Sounds like a good deal!
Thank you for such a quick reply.
@@scottthemagicalguy7609 You are welcome.
As ALWAYS another great informative video. Just something others might find interesting on this theme is Doug Reid's video. IMHO, I liked the part (at the 2:15 minute mark) concerning what we don't maybe consider very often with larger saw blades. The 'Depth of Cut' and the 'Blade Wobble'. ua-cam.com/video/JlDvcH75I78/v-deo.html
Yes, I like Doug's insights on this.
Decades ago I bought a ShopSmith saw blade arbor that takes standard saw blades. I have saved a ton of money by not having to buy ShopSmith blades, which are much more expensive than ones I can buy at Home Depot!
That’s true. I think everyone would buy a 5/8” arbor, just in case.