Thanks for this incredibly helpful video. It gave me the confidence to do my first timing belt change. A few notes from my experience on doing this on a 2016 XC60: 1. There's not a lot of room to get your hands in to unbolt the tensioner and idler pulley, so you'll need a combination of small ratchets and spanners at hand. But it's all doable. 2. Setting the idley pulley to 10 o'clock means it's at it's lowest tension, which allows you to get the new belt on. You don't need to pull the tensioner tab thing (like you do when removing), as you should be able to get the belt on if it's set to 10 o'clock. 3. Put the belt over the top camshaft pulley last. It will be a tight fit, but it will go. Try your best to feed it on to the teeth, then knock it over with a mallet. It would be incredibly awkward to try and get it over the tensioner last due to the minimal clearance you've got to work with. 4. When setting the tensioner after the new belt is on, I found using a H7 screwdriver bit on some locking pliers gave me the best access. Again, it's tight in there, but it can be done if you're clever with your tools. 5. Timing cover bolt is 8mm. Swan neck spanner helps. 6. Idler pulley bolt is 10mm. Took me a while to figure out the size as it's deep in there. 7. Tensioner bolt is 12mm. 8. When tightening the crankshaft bolt to 300nm, I had to angle the crank locking tool to 9 o'clock to find some chassis to push against just behind the central wheel arch cover, as there were pipes everywhere else. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Hi Fred. Yes I did! It was a father's day job with one of my sons before a bbq and a few beers! It was relatively easy with Simon's video to guide. A few details on my XC90 were: 1. Timing mark on the camshaft is tiny!! 2. Timing mark on the crank was more obvious than Simon's V70 3. I needed a puller to get the crank pulley off - each time, not just the first time 4. We had to hold the Allen key in place on the tensioner while torquing the bolt otherwise it moved. Overall it was a fairly straightforward job. It's my first time doing a timing belt but I don't imagine there are many cars where that job is easier. Access is good and the quality of the Volvo components excellent. Mine had done 11 years and 92k miles but the belt and pulleys were certainly not on their last knockings!
Just an observation, I use tippex to mark the belt in relation to the pulleys and then lay the old belt on top of the new belt , count the teeth and mark the new belt , so if the pulleys do move you can just use the tippex marks on the pulley to align , otherwise a great video and has made me more confident in getting an XC60.
done the same job today ,quite easy,i came home and watched a few other people on here do the same job and i was amazed how many people turned tensioner clockwise to tension when there is clearly an arrow to indicate anti clock wise to tension,your video is perfect,well i hope the people have done it wrong way there belt stays on
You gave me the confidence to complete the replacement of my timing belt, confidence is a funny thing you can lose it very quickly, whilst test driving the vehicle, I found it run smoother and was more responsive, is this possible ? or just my imagination, Many thanks Geoff
Hello Sirobb, Job done right ! I've done several timing belt changes on many different cars and I can tell you it's the easiest ever ! So well engineered ... Citroen-Peugeot and Renault engineers should definitely follow training at volvo's..! Water pump was easy too, lot of space and no engine mount on the way or to remove !! Car has 200kmiles and water pump looks like new, outside and inside with a very slight end play on the axle. Yours will last don't worry. I should have paid more attention on the tensioner sequence in your video which would have saved me 15 min struggling with the timing belt installation... "Just push the tensioner indicator arm and the belt slipped in like in butter !" Thanks and good luck to all of the others who'll do the job by themselves ! ;-)
Well done and thanks for the comment. The tensioner trick caught me out first time too but now you know, hopefully you'll remember it again in 10 years. ☺️
Done my belts, tensioners and idlers today, wouldn't have attempted it myself without seing this excellent video first. Interestingly when checking the water pump there was some play in it, XC90 has done 128000 miles so was a bit shocked as the pumps have a fantastic reputation for longevity. All became apparent when I removed it, cheap pattern part, good job I had a genuine one. The belt I removed was a Gates one that was still in a serviceable condition, most likely a previous owner was advised to have the water pump changed. Properly didn't need changing at all !! FANTASTIC videos as alwas Simon, keep up the good work 😊😊😉. Many thanks, Paul😊😊
Agreed indeed... do you ever do private work and fit belts for people ? I'd love to have a go but not quite confident enough and buy the time you've bought a decent impact you're nearly at the cost of having a good indy do it...
Thanks for posting ! I'm doing mine in ten minutes and I've just watched your excellent video to get more confidence doing the job.... On my side I'm replacing the water pump, engine's just past 200k miles.
Excellent and I hope it all goes well. A little part of me wishes I'd done the water pump regardless but nearly a year on and all is still good but I don't blame you. Only replace with another genuine Volvo pump though. There's endless stories of relatively new aftermarket failures and virtually no incidences of genuine pump failure. Thanks for taking the time to comment on your big day. ☺️
Just done this job on a V50. Great video helped me plan the job. Unfortunately letting Ford design a Volvo meant a torque rod,engine mount and any amount of horrible plastic had to be removed. This then leaves next to no room to replace tensioners. Interestingly I found that idler pulley had started to leak grease meaning that it would eventually run dry and seize. The car is 10 years old with only 13000 miles! So even low miles cars still need this job done. Many thanks again. Regards Charles
got the same car ;) last year gave my car to garage to do the timing belt. and now feel slightly stupid cus i had a great opportunity to do this by my self and save some money. how ever thanks for videos going to watch all of them!
Thanks for these great videos Sirobb. I have changed aux belt and tensioner, full cambelt kit, alternator pulley and oil pump gaskets all from following your guides. My 2004 V70 D5 has 192k and is now running like a Swiss watch. Great work and you've saved me a fortune in labour. 👍👍
Great video Simon......My D5 has done 180k and I like looking after things myself where I can. It's due a new belt soon and I've never done this job. I'm going to have a go with the help of your video! Thanks
Really excellent video. Well explained very detailed and with good camera angels, zooms and visibility. Truly made by an expert who know what he is doing! Thanks!!
Well the main big nut came off really easily with my nice new impact wrench and, as you said, the engine didn't turn - well, only about a millimeter if at all, so thank you for that. However, when I tried to undo the four small bolts I couldn't use the impact as I don't have the 13mm socket to fit its 3/4 inch drive or a reducer to take 1/2 inch drive sockets, so I used a normal socket and a breaker bar. The crankshaft did start to spin as the crankshaft pulley was rotated - only by about half a centimeter if that before I stopped to think, and I turned it the other way to bring things back into alignment. Because I was unable to fully re-seat the timing belt behind the pulley, I realised the camshaft sprocket wasn't turning with the crankshaft pulley. I replaced the central nut and then used two breaker bars; one to undo the 4 small bolts and one to counterhold on the central nut to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I managed to get all the bolts off in this manner, but I noticed that despite my efforts to counterhold the pulley - which is difficult to do considering access etc. - the thing that the crankshaft pulley bolts onto - harmonic balance? - is slightly off from where it used to be - only by about a half a centimeter at most. The camshaft sprocket hasn't moved off TDC as the belt was loose by this time. So my question is, is it possile to just turn the crankshaft back about half a centimetre to where it was as you describe at 23:53 in your video (ridge aligning with back of tooth aligning with casting on block) thus bringing the crankshaft sprocket back into alignment with the camshaft sprocket, as they were before I loosened the belt? My thinking is that it's the belt that connects the two sprockets together, so if they are repositioned to be as they were before the slippage, everything should be back to normal? I'd appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Apologies for the late reply but we lost a beloved pet so it's been quite a stressful time. Turning the crankshaft back a little should be fine. The most important thing is that after the new belt has been fitted and tensioned, you do another manual turning of the engine before turning it on properly to ensure the timing marks remain synchronised and there is no abnormal resistance when turning. I hope the rest of the change went well for you.
@@sirobb Hello again. Thank you for the reply, and condolences on the loss of your pet. That can be very upsetting. I did think along similar lines regarding simply turning the crankshaft back by the same amount - it seems logical - and I proceeded as you sugested, rechecked that the timing marks were both still synchronised, turned the engine over twice using a breaker bar on the central nut and re-checked the timing marks again. They were still in sync, so I should be okay. I finished by fitting the pulley again with new bolts and nut and used the special holding tool and the torque wrench set at 300Nm. The only difficulty I had was that after the central nut was fitted and I removed the tool to fit the four small bolts, the engine still turned when torquing up the small bolts to 35Nm + 50 degrees. Anyone reading this and in the same predicament, I got around this by using a socket and breaker bar on the central nut - wedging the breaker bar against the wishbone - as a counterhold to allow me to torque up the small bolts. This avoids you having to remove the starter motor - which I found to be almost inaccesible on my D5 XC90 - and jamb the flywheel with a screwdriver to stop the engine from turning. So as far as the timing belt, tensioner and idler job goes, I consider it to be a success. Of course I'll only know if it is for sure once I've fitted the new auxillary belt, tensioner and idler (I'll be watching your video on that job, too) and the new A/C clutch etc. etc. and run the engine properly. But thank you for your advice, so far SiRobb. It's much appreciated by desperate DIYers such as myself and has got me out of many a sticky situation on this XC90. I wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Great informative video, thanks i watched yours and 3 others to pick up all the tips... just changed mine at 200k, last change 95k so belt did 105k and still all parts working well but new ones generally a little better... did waterpump which was a pain, most of the baked gasket stayed on the block and it's impossible to see all the mating surface to ensure none left behind... took maybe 3 hours just for that... had to take phone pics to see how the unseen was coming and work by feel.... painful and a couple of nails mashed where i tried lifting it that way... after that, maybe 2 1/2 hrs putting it all back leisurely, new pulley and tensioner too... so good for another 105K ! if you get the tensioner right and then make sure the belt is snug on the crank teeth (i locked crank with torque wrench) and get the tension right up to the cam, then it falls into place quite easily... thanks again, yours was one of the best, the impact gun advice ideal.... i couldn't move the crank nut with a 3/4 bar with extension and then a long pole which dutifully bent... so that wasn't going to work... bought a cheap gun that claimed 520nm and that couldn't do it.... neighbour had 1000nm De Walt gun and that did it like it was nothing... shows good tools matter invest in the best for critical work...
Thank you so much. I have done a few timing belt changes before on other cars but it's about time to do it on the volvo and wanted to make sure i don't mess anything up. Really useful video.
Great video buddy, easy to follow step by step guide. Love the Volvo design of that side engine mount, fixed to subframe at bottom of engine, no need to remove it. Saves time and effort. Thanks, vinny. :-)
I gues I have a few tools to buy as I always struggle with breaker bars trying to do these! I only have 2 xT5's and one D5 to do cam belts on before winter! Excellent video as usual
you are some of the best, to explane and show what we have to do...thank you very much Sir. I got lots of help from your video and explenation...very detailed and understandable..
Thank you so much for filming this. Did a Cambelt before on my old trusty V70 from 1999 but that has a 2.5 Petrol, which is a bit different. Got a D5 last week, will do the cambelt soon. Thanks again!
Hello SiRobb. thank you sooooo much for this very helpful video, everything is perfect and my Volvo runs perfect with the new timing belt. All the best for you from Germany... Erich
good vedeo mate we can see you are a really profissional mechanic you not use glovers you are from old school on this vedeo we can see how change the timing belt all most all cars. cheers from norway
Very well done. Thank you. May I suggest using a laser pointer or a long screwdriver to indicate distant items, rather than trying to get your arm down there.
I'm a competent home spanner monkey but I own mostly classic Renault Turbo stuff. The tips about the crank alignment, and belt tensioner were specific to a car I'm unfamiliar with :-). I did the water pump while I was there....amazed at the condition of the 187k pump and the 90k cambelt!
+David Sibley Yes Volvo spec their belts and pulleys very highly on this engine so the condition of your old parts doesn't surprise me. I'd always stick with genuine parts in this area.
a help would be to put "tipex" markers on the old belt too and an arrow outwards .. take the old belt on top of the new and transfer the "tipex" to the new belt AND the arrow .. fx. also count teeth on the old and new belt as a check .. then by mounting the new belt, you have the markings at the wheels and the markings on the belt to be sure on right mount ...
Great job buddy. Having just the one camshaft am I right in thinking the engine has two valves per cylinder, did this job on a 2006 Saab 9-5 1.9 diesel, twin cam 4 valves per cylinder, noticed also, on Saab like most front wheel drive cars engine mount has to be removed, engine supported. On Volvo engine mount on bottom and clear to carry out this job, engine supported too. My brother who owns the Saab 9-5 as a private hire taxi is thinking of getting a volvo v50 for his next car, he loves the saab but things like simpler access to servicing make the choice of volvo probs his next choice. Dont even mention front headlamp bulb replacement, can do it without removing bumper but still a faff, Volvo just pop headlight forward giving full and easy access to replace any of the bulbs. Great video, thanks, vinny. :-)
Thanks for the comment Vinny. It is still a double overhead camshaft engine with 4 valves per cylinder but you just have one externally visible camshaft pulley which directly drives the intake camshaft. Underneath the rocker cover, you would see how the 2 camshafts are then synchronised using interlocking cogs.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply sirobb explaining that to me, sounds like a similar set up to rover V6 petrol, but instead of belts connecting other cam via gearbox side connection it's done via a gear drive inside the cylinder head. Thanks for the video, subscribed to your channel, you know what your doing, looking forward to gaining more knowledge through your very straight forward layman's terms videos. :-) thanks, Vinny.
Excellent video, very well explained, very detailed. Mine is due this summer, so I will do the job myself if I can get my hands on a crank pulley locking tool! Anyone know where to get / hire one?
Great well explained video thanks, 🙂 just bought a 2013 XC60 D5 and will use this as my guide thank u ! I take it my engine will be the same as this will it ?
You will have a much later D5 version with different access and parts but the general principle of the change is similar. Definitely do your homework and don't rely on just this video.
Great video. I don't know if this is an urban myth but I've heard the reason so many Volvo engines get trashed due to the timing belt snapping is Volvo moved the recommended mileage /years for changing it upwards by about 40% after some class action lawsuit in California (where else ! ) resulted in them being liable for them snapping below a certain mileage so they would have have had to pay for all those new engines that got trashed. Weirdly the plaintiffs successfully linked it to an environmental issue . Maybe they claimed that having to replace an engine with a new one is harmful to the environment a bit like the argument that replacing a high emissions old car with a brand new low emission new car is bad for the environment because of the energy used to create the new car plus the workers driving to the car plants plus transporting the new cars all around the world etc.
Hi guys, Hi SiRobb, thanks very much for your videos with images and explainations very clear ! I have trouble to remove the central big nut on the accessory belt pulley (video 9:30) I'm using a strong shock key. Tried some W.D 40... Does it goes off anticlockwise ? Any tricks to help me ? Cheers
Very helpful video. I am about to do the same within few months (S60, D5, MY2007). Only question I have with all this. If I want to also change waterpump do I have to lift / lower the engine for that? Or it should slide out without moving engine. If anybody knows that it would be nice to know.
There are enough 300000 mile water pumps to give me confidence to leave it alone. Also, Volvo don't supply a timing kit that includes the pump. If failure was common, they would recommend change and sell you another pump, like they do with the various pulleys. I've heard of water pump failures on many other manufacturers' engines but NEVER on a D5 so I'm assuming your experience is different.
Good to know. I've never had a water pump fail but then I've always changed them with the belt if required. I suppose if you had any doubt about the service history and were unsure of how well the cooling system had been maintained it might change your thinking, but if they're that good then if it ain't broke leave it alone.
+Badgertronix Of course yes, there are many service factors which may influence your decision which is why I say to weigh it up for yourself once you're in there. I only use Volvo Coolant and if your D5 is well maintained, with no prior issues in that area, the pump should easily last to the third belt change. If you do change it, use another genuine pump otherwise you'll be fitting something that's worse quality than the original.
Great video. Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You can change the water pump without changing anything else but the process is still the same when setting up the timing marks and removing the belt to access the pump.
Hi simon ive just bought a v50 D3 and i know it can suffer from the old aux belt getting tangled up in the cam belt,do you think theres is any way of modifying the crank pulley to stop the aux belt entering the cam belt incase of failure this problem gives me sleepless nights.
If all the timing and aux belts and pulleys are strictly maintained within the recommended schedule, I'm not aware of any premature failures. I certainly have no concerns over my belts and pulleys.
I have been told there is a removable cover at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley which means that the pulley does not need to be removed? Have you come across this? Really helpful video btw. Regards Charles
Charles Dale Yes, there's a curved lower cover held on with 2 x 10mm bolts which some remove and squeeze the new belt through the gap having cut off the old belt first. It isn't a method I would use or recommend in fact I would strongly advise against it so it's up to you.
What are the risks with this method since it would help not having to buy another torque wrench for 300Nm and the strong impact gun 650Nm, and not needing to buy the crank pulley locking tool.
Just done this method without removing the pulley as I am too tight to buy an impact wrench and in general I would agree that it isn't advisable as it is a very tight squeeze and you have to bend the belt one way to get past the pulley seat casting behind the pulley and then the other way to get past the base of the plastic cover assembly. So there is a potential that you could damage the belt but it is fairly robust and if you are careful can be done ok. Now I have done it once I would be ok to do it again, but got a bit worried for a moment that I wouldn't be able to get it back on once I cut the old one off. Anyway thanks SiRobb for giving me the confidence to try.
Hi there sirobb my Volvo S60 d5 2007 has just started loseing coolant. heads fine no milky oil cap but wet patch is we’re water pump is . How much would a water pump and timming belt cost to fix thanks great video
Excellent video and top quality too. Unfortunately i don't still own a volvo, but one happy day i acquire one this is surelly gonna come in handy. Can the crankshaft be locked somehow ? Is there some kind of a hole in the flywheel so it can be locked with a pin ? I assume this being a 2.4L engine with its glowplugs in place the Crankshaft should stay in place and not move so easily, but i'm always paranoid when doing jobs like these and just like to lock the crankshaft and camshaft somehow. Anyway once again great video.
Hi thanks for taking the time to comment. Even with the belt off, the crank and camshaft are both difficult to move by accident so if you're careful, it's really not a problem. Cam and crank locking pins are available if you're still not confident.
+SiRobb Thanks for the swift reply. Well then I've got the knowledge now, its only a matter of acquiring a volvo S60 :). Just subscribed to Your channel too. Looking forward to checking out other videos.
SiRobb, thank u for this fantastic tutorial video! Everything is explained very clearly. I have a 2006 S60 2.5T and I've managed to put everything together per direction. I started up the engine and noticed that it idles rough. This leads me to believe that during the belt installation, I inadvertently moved either the Exhaust and/or Intake camshaft pulley at the top. If this indeed happened, what is the best course of action? This would mean that I have to remove the belt and set the crankshaft pulley and the exhaust and intake camshaft pulley up top MANUALLY? Any advice would be great! Thanks again!
The first thing you need to do is turn the engine manually to see if all crank and cam marks line up. If they are out of line, there's your problem. When you do a belt change, you must turn the engine manually to check these marks line up BEFORE starting the engine.👍
Thanks SiRobb for response! I did NOT turn the engine manually before I started the engine, that was a careless error on my part! If I redo the belt again, obviously, I would have to manually turn each of the two top camshaft pulleys and also the crankshaft pulley to realigned. Is this the only course of action, you think? Thank you!
+Ky Cam Unfortunately, I'm not going to say what you should do now as I don't have much experience with your engine and your car isn't in front of me so that is your choice. If you are unsure, don't start the engine and seek professional advice. Good luck. 👍
If it's fully seized, I can't see how the engine can run anymore as the timing belt would have skipped teeth. You'd need to check the timing first then replace the pump with a genuine Volvo one initially and see if the engine can be turned.
@@sirobb can't see any volvo stamp on the pump so guess it's not volvo, neither is the belt. Put a belt kit on it today, turns over with a socket so will try starting it tomorrow. Thanks for responding
Do you not get new bolts in the Volvo kit for the Tensioner and idler? Never seen that before. Most Dealer kits and OEM equivalent kits have bolts I found. Remember most belts are made by others even if it says Volvo. Same as Engine oil. Asda does not make their own oil. They used to get it from Castrol. That may of changed though. The Volvo warranty might be good but if you fit it yourself the warranty might not matter at all. Check there terms and conditions about warranty. They might want a garage to do it that is VAT registered.
Hi SirRob, after setting the camshaft and crankshaft timing before removing the old belt, how to lock the pulleys to keep the timing in place whilst fiddling everything? I have done duratec engine which we will lock the crankshaft with pin and a flat bar on the camshaft. How about this D5? Cheers.
8 years later and I still watch your videos for help on my 322k v70 d5!
me too :)
me too xc90 400k eur3 . SirRob the man!
What a geezer. Your videos are still helping people 5 years later. If you happen to do any work on the xc70 2.5T then please do a video.
Thanks for this incredibly helpful video. It gave me the confidence to do my first timing belt change.
A few notes from my experience on doing this on a 2016 XC60:
1. There's not a lot of room to get your hands in to unbolt the tensioner and idler pulley, so you'll need a combination of small ratchets and spanners at hand. But it's all doable.
2. Setting the idley pulley to 10 o'clock means it's at it's lowest tension, which allows you to get the new belt on. You don't need to pull the tensioner tab thing (like you do when removing), as you should be able to get the belt on if it's set to 10 o'clock.
3. Put the belt over the top camshaft pulley last. It will be a tight fit, but it will go. Try your best to feed it on to the teeth, then knock it over with a mallet. It would be incredibly awkward to try and get it over the tensioner last due to the minimal clearance you've got to work with.
4. When setting the tensioner after the new belt is on, I found using a H7 screwdriver bit on some locking pliers gave me the best access. Again, it's tight in there, but it can be done if you're clever with your tools.
5. Timing cover bolt is 8mm. Swan neck spanner helps.
6. Idler pulley bolt is 10mm. Took me a while to figure out the size as it's deep in there.
7. Tensioner bolt is 12mm.
8. When tightening the crankshaft bolt to 300nm, I had to angle the crank locking tool to 9 o'clock to find some chassis to push against just behind the central wheel arch cover, as there were pipes everywhere else.
Thanks again for the great tutorial.
thanks for all that very important info m8
Hi Fred. Yes I did! It was a father's day job with one of my sons before a bbq and a few beers! It was relatively easy with Simon's video to guide. A few details on my XC90 were:
1. Timing mark on the camshaft is tiny!!
2. Timing mark on the crank was more obvious than Simon's V70
3. I needed a puller to get the crank pulley off - each time, not just the first time
4. We had to hold the Allen key in place on the tensioner while torquing the bolt otherwise it moved.
Overall it was a fairly straightforward job. It's my first time doing a timing belt but I don't imagine there are many cars where that job is easier. Access is good and the quality of the Volvo components excellent. Mine had done 11 years and 92k miles but the belt and pulleys were certainly not on their last knockings!
Just an observation, I use tippex to mark the belt in relation to the pulleys and then lay the old belt on top of the new belt , count the teeth and mark the new belt , so if the pulleys do move you can just use the tippex marks on the pulley to align , otherwise a great video and has made me more confident in getting an XC60.
Thank you. Its people like you who make the web such an amazing place.
done the same job today ,quite easy,i came home and watched a few other people on here do the same job and i was amazed how many people turned tensioner clockwise to tension when there is clearly an arrow to indicate anti clock wise to tension,your video is perfect,well i hope the people have done it wrong way there belt stays on
This video is awesome! Saved me writing off my car when the mechanic incorrectly said my auxiliary belt knocked out the timing. Thank you!
That's literally the best DIY video I've seen on the internet..
Thank you for sharing!
You gave me the confidence to complete the replacement of my timing belt, confidence is a funny thing you can lose it very quickly, whilst test driving the vehicle, I found it run smoother and was more responsive, is this possible ? or just my imagination, Many thanks Geoff
It's very possible. My S60 D5 felt more "compat" and less loose if that makes sense 😅
Completely possible its because the timing belt stretches
Hello Sirobb,
Job done right ! I've done several timing belt changes on many different cars and I can tell you it's the easiest ever ! So well engineered ... Citroen-Peugeot and Renault engineers should definitely follow training at volvo's..! Water pump was easy too, lot of space and no engine mount on the way or to remove !! Car has 200kmiles and water pump looks like new, outside and inside with a very slight end play on the axle. Yours will last don't worry. I should have paid more attention on the tensioner sequence in your video which would have saved me 15 min struggling with the timing belt installation... "Just push the tensioner indicator arm and the belt slipped in like in butter !" Thanks and good luck to all of the others who'll do the job by themselves ! ;-)
Well done and thanks for the comment.
The tensioner trick caught me out first time too but now you know, hopefully you'll remember it again in 10 years. ☺️
Great video, brilliantly explained with lots of top quality tips, fantastic camera angles, a pleasure to watch!
Done my belts, tensioners and idlers today, wouldn't have attempted it myself without seing this excellent video first. Interestingly when checking the water pump there was some play in it, XC90 has done 128000 miles so was a bit shocked as the pumps have a fantastic reputation for longevity. All became apparent when I removed it, cheap pattern part, good job I had a genuine one. The belt I removed was a Gates one that was still in a serviceable condition, most likely a previous owner was advised to have the water pump changed. Properly didn't need changing at all !!
FANTASTIC videos as alwas Simon, keep up the good work 😊😊😉.
Many thanks, Paul😊😊
These videos are brilliant. I think the best done and most useful I've seen.
That's always good to hear.
Thank you for taking the time to say so.
SiRobb я
Agreed indeed... do you ever do private work and fit belts for people ? I'd love to have a go but not quite confident enough and buy the time you've bought a decent impact you're nearly at the cost of having a good indy do it...
Thanks for posting ! I'm doing mine in ten minutes and I've just watched your excellent video to get more confidence doing the job.... On my side I'm replacing the water pump, engine's just past 200k miles.
Excellent and I hope it all goes well.
A little part of me wishes I'd done the water pump regardless but nearly a year on and all is still good but I don't blame you.
Only replace with another genuine Volvo pump though.
There's endless stories of relatively new aftermarket failures and virtually no incidences of genuine pump failure.
Thanks for taking the time to comment on your big day. ☺️
SiRobb ql
qi
Just done this job on a V50. Great video helped me plan the job. Unfortunately letting Ford design a Volvo meant a torque rod,engine mount and any amount of horrible plastic had to be removed. This then leaves next to no room to replace tensioners. Interestingly I found that idler pulley had started to leak grease meaning that it would eventually run dry and seize. The car is 10 years old with only 13000 miles! So even low miles cars still need this job done. Many thanks again. Regards Charles
Thanks for taking the time to go through all of this belt replacement . Yes another brilliant video .
got the same car ;) last year gave my car to garage to do the timing belt. and now feel slightly stupid cus i had a great opportunity to do this by my self and save some money. how ever thanks for videos going to watch all of them!
Thanks for these great videos Sirobb. I have changed aux belt and tensioner, full cambelt kit, alternator pulley and oil pump gaskets all from following your guides. My 2004 V70 D5 has 192k and is now running like a Swiss watch. Great work and you've saved me a fortune in labour. 👍👍
You Have a unique talent for teaching Sir. Outstanding explanation, Thank you!
Great video Simon......My D5 has done 180k and I like looking after things myself where I can. It's due a new belt soon and I've never done this job. I'm going to have a go with the help of your video! Thanks
just wondering did you manage to put on a new belt okay ?
Really excellent video. Well explained very detailed and with good camera angels, zooms and visibility. Truly made by an expert who know what he is doing! Thanks!!
Many thanks for your support Martin.
Well the main big nut came off really easily with my nice new impact wrench and, as you said, the engine didn't turn - well, only about a millimeter if at all, so thank you for that. However, when I tried to undo the four small bolts I couldn't use the impact as I don't have the 13mm socket to fit its 3/4 inch drive or a reducer to take 1/2 inch drive sockets, so I used a normal socket and a breaker bar. The crankshaft did start to spin as the crankshaft pulley was rotated - only by about half a centimeter if that before I stopped to think, and I turned it the other way to bring things back into alignment. Because I was unable to fully re-seat the timing belt behind the pulley, I realised the camshaft sprocket wasn't turning with the crankshaft pulley. I replaced the central nut and then used two breaker bars; one to undo the 4 small bolts and one to counterhold on the central nut to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I managed to get all the bolts off in this manner, but I noticed that despite my efforts to counterhold the pulley - which is difficult to do considering access etc. - the thing that the crankshaft pulley bolts onto - harmonic balance? - is slightly off from where it used to be - only by about a half a centimeter at most. The camshaft sprocket hasn't moved off TDC as the belt was loose by this time. So my question is, is it possile to just turn the crankshaft back about half a centimetre to where it was as you describe at 23:53 in your video (ridge aligning with back of tooth aligning with casting on block) thus bringing the crankshaft sprocket back into alignment with the camshaft sprocket, as they were before I loosened the belt? My thinking is that it's the belt that connects the two sprockets together, so if they are repositioned to be as they were before the slippage, everything should be back to normal? I'd appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Apologies for the late reply but we lost a beloved pet so it's been quite a stressful time.
Turning the crankshaft back a little should be fine.
The most important thing is that after the new belt has been fitted and tensioned, you do another manual turning of the engine before turning it on properly to ensure the timing marks remain synchronised and there is no abnormal resistance when turning.
I hope the rest of the change went well for you.
@@sirobb Hello again. Thank you for the reply, and condolences on the loss of your pet. That can be very upsetting.
I did think along similar lines regarding simply turning the crankshaft back by the same amount - it seems logical - and I proceeded as you sugested, rechecked that the timing marks were both still synchronised, turned the engine over twice using a breaker bar on the central nut and re-checked the timing marks again. They were still in sync, so I should be okay. I finished by fitting the pulley again with new bolts and nut and used the special holding tool and the torque wrench set at 300Nm. The only difficulty I had was that after the central nut was fitted and I removed the tool to fit the four small bolts, the engine still turned when torquing up the small bolts to 35Nm + 50 degrees. Anyone reading this and in the same predicament, I got around this by using a socket and breaker bar on the central nut - wedging the breaker bar against the wishbone - as a counterhold to allow me to torque up the small bolts. This avoids you having to remove the starter motor - which I found to be almost inaccesible on my D5 XC90 - and jamb the flywheel with a screwdriver to stop the engine from turning. So as far as the timing belt, tensioner and idler job goes, I consider it to be a success. Of course I'll only know if it is for sure once I've fitted the new auxillary belt, tensioner and idler (I'll be watching your video on that job, too) and the new A/C clutch etc. etc. and run the engine properly. But thank you for your advice, so far SiRobb. It's much appreciated by desperate DIYers such as myself and has got me out of many a sticky situation on this XC90.
I wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
A Merry Christmas to you too Aidan and thank you for the gift. It was very much appreciated. 👍🏾
Its one of the best videos for the XC90 Timing Belt replacement that i have ever seen! Thumbs up!!!!
Excellent. Best instruction video I have seen very clear pictures and clear instruction.
Great informative video, thanks i watched yours and 3 others to pick up all the tips... just changed mine at 200k, last change 95k so belt did 105k and still all parts working well but new ones generally a little better... did waterpump which was a pain, most of the baked gasket stayed on the block and it's impossible to see all the mating surface to ensure none left behind... took maybe 3 hours just for that... had to take phone pics to see how the unseen was coming and work by feel.... painful and a couple of nails mashed where i tried lifting it that way... after that, maybe 2 1/2 hrs putting it all back leisurely, new pulley and tensioner too... so good for another 105K ! if you get the tensioner right and then make sure the belt is snug on the crank teeth (i locked crank with torque wrench) and get the tension right up to the cam, then it falls into place quite easily... thanks again, yours was one of the best, the impact gun advice ideal.... i couldn't move the crank nut with a 3/4 bar with extension and then a long pole which dutifully bent... so that wasn't going to work... bought a cheap gun that claimed 520nm and that couldn't do it.... neighbour had 1000nm De Walt gun and that did it like it was nothing... shows good tools matter invest in the best for critical work...
You've made that job look not particularly unpleasant and I reckon its a job I can take on when I get my D5. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this, I just bought an XC90, and to my luck it was already past the the interval. Now I was fortunate enough to do it myself!
Thanks, SiRobb! That was a detailed and well-delivered tutorial. Good Job!!
Best video I've found on this. Thanks for taking the time to explain every detail. Cheers!
Awesome video, thanks for going to the effort of filming it and sharing your knowledge
Thank you so much. I have done a few timing belt changes before on other cars but it's about time to do it on the volvo and wanted to make sure i don't mess anything up. Really useful video.
best engine ever. mine have 290kkm and still works nice. time to change belt second time since been new :) thx for video!
Mine have 585kkm and still work like a watch👌
Great video buddy, easy to follow step by step guide. Love the Volvo design of that side engine mount, fixed to subframe at bottom of engine, no need to remove it. Saves time and effort. Thanks, vinny. :-)
I gues I have a few tools to buy as I always struggle with breaker bars trying to do these! I only have 2 xT5's and one D5 to do cam belts on before winter! Excellent video as usual
Thanks for taking time to explain how to adjust the tensioner. Great Vid!
you are some of the best, to explane and show what we have to do...thank you very much Sir. I got lots of help from your video and explenation...very detailed and understandable..
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Brilliant video, narrated in layman language. Thanks for taking the time to record and upload it.
Please accept my belated thank you. 👍
great video SiRobb iv learnt a lot from all your videos mate thanks
Thanks very much for your exzellent and helpful video.
Best wishes from Germany,
Erich
Thank you so much for filming this. Did a Cambelt before on my old trusty V70 from 1999 but that has a 2.5 Petrol, which is a bit different. Got a D5 last week, will do the cambelt soon. Thanks again!
Hello SiRobb.
thank you sooooo much for this very helpful video, everything is perfect and my Volvo runs perfect with the new timing belt.
All the best for you from Germany...
Erich
Really great video! Your video just helped me fixing my volvo penta boat engine!
good vedeo mate we can see you are a really profissional mechanic you not use glovers you are from old school on this vedeo we can see how change the timing belt all most all cars. cheers from norway
detailed video to the fullest☝️ I will do mine soon 😁 thx SiRobb!
Great video! This made me confident I can manage a change of the timingbelt for my D5 =) Greetings from Sweden!
Tjena Andreas, hur gick det eller har du inte gjort jobbet?
Good video thank. Well explained. Now I can take my v70. Have a good day.
Great work and illustration
Brilliant demonstrate on doing this I definitely feel confident on doing soon including water pump thanks mate 👌
Thanks so much. I've the same diesel d5244t volvo xc70 ...the video was very useful for me..
A basted job , but not as bad as on a French car . Great well made vidio, much appreciated.
Dankeschön, wirklich gut erklärt. Grüße aus Deutschland.
As usual, excellent tutorial from SiRobb
That's one of the reasons why I just buy Toyota, timing chain and saving money 😊
Very well done. Thank you. May I suggest using a laser pointer or a long screwdriver to indicate distant items, rather than trying to get your arm down there.
Sure. You can suggest whatever you want. 😊
Well done mate. Good effort and video
Great video! Blessings from Sweden!!
Great video this allowed me to chance my belt thanks
Excellent video. Many thanks
Top quality Si brilliant stuff!
Top man. Thanks for the detailed explanation
Some good tips here, helped me out loads thanks man.
No problem and well done for doing it yourself. 👍
I'm a competent home spanner monkey but I own mostly classic Renault Turbo stuff. The tips about the crank alignment, and belt tensioner were specific to a car I'm unfamiliar with :-). I did the water pump while I was there....amazed at the condition of the 187k pump and the 90k cambelt!
+David Sibley Yes Volvo spec their belts and pulleys very highly on this engine so the condition of your old parts doesn't surprise me.
I'd always stick with genuine parts in this area.
a help would be to put "tipex" markers on the old belt too and an arrow outwards .. take the old belt on top of the new and transfer the "tipex" to the new belt AND the arrow .. fx. also count teeth on the old and new belt as a check .. then by mounting the new belt, you have the markings at the wheels and the markings on the belt to be sure on right mount ...
I've not needed to do any of the above but if it works for you and gets the job done correctly, that's great.
I love the video
Great job buddy. Having just the one camshaft am I right in thinking the engine has two valves per cylinder, did this job on a 2006 Saab 9-5 1.9 diesel, twin cam 4 valves per cylinder, noticed also, on Saab like most front wheel drive cars engine mount has to be removed, engine supported. On Volvo engine mount on bottom and clear to carry out this job, engine supported too. My brother who owns the Saab 9-5 as a private hire taxi is thinking of getting a volvo v50 for his next car, he loves the saab but things like simpler access to servicing make the choice of volvo probs his next choice. Dont even mention front headlamp bulb replacement, can do it without removing bumper but still a faff, Volvo just pop headlight forward giving full and easy access to replace any of the bulbs. Great video, thanks, vinny. :-)
Thanks for the comment Vinny.
It is still a double overhead camshaft engine with 4 valves per cylinder but you just have one externally visible camshaft pulley which directly drives the intake camshaft.
Underneath the rocker cover, you would see how the 2 camshafts are then synchronised using interlocking cogs.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply sirobb explaining that to me, sounds like a similar set up to rover V6 petrol, but instead of belts connecting other cam via gearbox side connection it's done via a gear drive inside the cylinder head. Thanks for the video, subscribed to your channel, you know what your doing, looking forward to gaining more knowledge through your very straight forward layman's terms videos. :-) thanks, Vinny.
good film:) regards from Poland
Need to do this on my LT35 SDI van (same engine) so many thanks for posting...
Thanks for the comment.
It's not the same engine but it should give you some general pointers which are applicable to most timing belt changes.
Well done. Great video!
Excellent video, very well explained, very detailed.
Mine is due this summer, so I will do the job myself if I can get my hands on a crank pulley locking tool! Anyone know where to get / hire one?
Thank you.
There's a link in the DIY section of my Amazon Store Front www.amazon.co.uk/shop/sirobb
Great tutorial, thank you, great help.
Great well explained video thanks, 🙂 just bought a 2013 XC60 D5 and will use this as my guide thank u !
I take it my engine will be the same as this will it ?
You will have a much later D5 version with different access and parts but the general principle of the change is similar.
Definitely do your homework and don't rely on just this video.
Super Video mate....
Great video, good job !
Great video. I don't know if this is an urban myth but I've heard the reason so many Volvo engines get trashed due to the timing belt snapping is Volvo moved the recommended mileage /years for changing it upwards by about 40% after some class action lawsuit in California (where else ! ) resulted in them being liable for them snapping below a certain mileage so they would have have had to pay for all those new engines that got trashed. Weirdly the plaintiffs successfully linked it to an environmental issue . Maybe they claimed that having to replace an engine with a new one is harmful to the environment a bit like the argument that replacing a high emissions old car with a brand new low emission new car is bad for the environment because of the energy used to create the new car plus the workers driving to the car plants plus transporting the new cars all around the world etc.
It's an urban myth.
If the belts are maintained within the recommended schedule, there's no problem.
Good to see your work !
Sir, you are my hero
Great video !! when do you record doing the timing belt then?
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
excelente video... con cuantos kilometros hiciste el cambio de tu correa de distribución. saludos
Hi guys, Hi SiRobb, thanks very much for your videos with images and explainations very clear ! I have trouble to remove the central big nut on the accessory belt pulley (video 9:30) I'm using a strong shock key. Tried some W.D 40... Does it goes off anticlockwise ? Any tricks to help me ? Cheers
It comes off anti clockwise in the normal way.
What Nm is your impact wrench?
got it : 745 Nm
It finally came: I had to heat it and impact wrench it out.
Very helpful video. I am about to do the same within few months (S60, D5, MY2007). Only question I have with all this. If I want to also change waterpump do I have to lift / lower the engine for that? Or it should slide out without moving engine. If anybody knows that it would be nice to know.
An excellent tutorial! Thanks! Could you please share a part number of the volvo crank shaft pulley locking tool?
Thanks. It's printed on the box resting on the socket set at the start of the video.
Great video, youre the best!
Nice video. I take your point about the longevity of the water pump but at 180,000 miles I would probably have changed it anyway!
There are enough 300000 mile water pumps to give me confidence to leave it alone.
Also, Volvo don't supply a timing kit that includes the pump.
If failure was common, they would recommend change and sell you another pump, like they do with the various pulleys.
I've heard of water pump failures on many other manufacturers' engines but NEVER on a D5 so I'm assuming your experience is different.
Good to know. I've never had a water pump fail but then I've always changed them with the belt if required.
I suppose if you had any doubt about the service history and were unsure of how well the cooling system had been maintained it might change your thinking, but if they're that good then if it ain't broke leave it alone.
+Badgertronix Of course yes, there are many service factors which may influence your decision which is why I say to weigh it up for yourself once you're in there.
I only use Volvo Coolant and if your D5 is well maintained, with no prior issues in that area, the pump should easily last to the third belt change.
If you do change it, use another genuine pump otherwise you'll be fitting something that's worse quality than the original.
Great video. Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You can change the water pump without changing anything else but the process is still the same when setting up the timing marks and removing the belt to access the pump.
@@sirobb thanks for responding I will do .have good evening. Thanks again
An excellent video....you haven't done one for a 3rd gen Celica by any chance??😊
Hi simon ive just bought a v50 D3 and i know it can suffer from the old aux belt getting tangled up in the cam belt,do you think theres is any way of modifying the crank pulley to stop the aux belt entering the cam belt incase of failure this problem gives me sleepless nights.
If all the timing and aux belts and pulleys are strictly maintained within the recommended schedule, I'm not aware of any premature failures.
I certainly have no concerns over my belts and pulleys.
I have been told there is a removable cover at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley which means that the pulley does not need to be removed? Have you come across this? Really helpful video btw. Regards Charles
Charles Dale Yes, there's a curved lower cover held on with 2 x 10mm bolts which some remove and squeeze the new belt through the gap having cut off the old belt first.
It isn't a method I would use or recommend in fact I would strongly advise against it so it's up to you.
What are the risks with this method since it would help not having to buy another torque wrench for 300Nm and the strong impact gun 650Nm, and not needing to buy the crank pulley locking tool.
Just done this method without removing the pulley as I am too tight to buy an impact wrench and in general I would agree that it isn't advisable as it is a very tight squeeze and you have to bend the belt one way to get past the pulley seat casting behind the pulley and then the other way to get past the base of the plastic cover assembly. So there is a potential that you could damage the belt but it is fairly robust and if you are careful can be done ok. Now I have done it once I would be ok to do it again, but got a bit worried for a moment that I wouldn't be able to get it back on once I cut the old one off. Anyway thanks SiRobb for giving me the confidence to try.
Thank you for such a great and informative video. Could you please tell me what is the torque Nm for small 4 bolts on the crank pulley?
Thank you👍😁
Hi there sirobb my Volvo S60 d5 2007 has just started loseing coolant. heads fine no milky oil cap but wet patch is we’re water pump is . How much would a water pump and timming belt cost to fix thanks great video
The big mother at the bottom of the crankshaft gets 300nm ?? Im about to do the same at the weekend. Thank you for your great Video.
Yes, 300Nm on the D5.
Good luck.
@@sirobb It all worked very vell. Thank you for showing me how to do this.
Excellent video and top quality too. Unfortunately i don't still own a volvo, but one happy day i acquire one this is surelly gonna come in handy. Can the crankshaft be locked somehow ? Is there some kind of a hole in the flywheel so it can be locked with a pin ? I assume this being a 2.4L engine with its glowplugs in place the Crankshaft should stay in place and not move so easily, but i'm always paranoid when doing jobs like these and just like to lock the crankshaft and camshaft somehow. Anyway once again great video.
Hi thanks for taking the time to comment.
Even with the belt off, the crank and camshaft are both difficult to move by accident so if you're careful, it's really not a problem.
Cam and crank locking pins are available if you're still not confident.
+SiRobb Thanks for the swift reply. Well then I've got the knowledge now, its only a matter of acquiring a volvo S60 :). Just subscribed to Your channel too. Looking forward to checking out other videos.
Great video❤
Excellent Video, but what wrench did you use to get the 300nm crank pulley bolt off ?
I used the heavy duty impact wrench shown at the start.
There are other videos showing it too.
Great video; any idea what an independent garage would charge all in for this?
Never paid for it but replacing exactly what's shown in the video would be around £500 including parts and labour.
Thanks@@sirobb
SiRobb, thank u for this fantastic tutorial video! Everything is explained very clearly. I have a 2006 S60 2.5T and I've managed to put everything together per direction. I started up the engine and noticed that it idles rough. This leads me to believe that during the belt installation, I inadvertently moved either the Exhaust and/or Intake camshaft pulley at the top. If this indeed happened, what is the best course of action? This would mean that I have to remove the belt and set the crankshaft pulley and the exhaust and intake camshaft pulley up top MANUALLY? Any advice would be great! Thanks again!
The first thing you need to do is turn the engine manually to see if all crank and cam marks line up.
If they are out of line, there's your problem.
When you do a belt change, you must turn the engine manually to check these marks line up BEFORE starting the engine.👍
Thanks SiRobb for response! I did NOT turn the engine manually before I started the engine, that was a careless error on my part! If I redo the belt again, obviously, I would have to manually turn each of the two top camshaft pulleys and also the crankshaft pulley to realigned. Is this the only course of action, you think? Thank you!
+Ky Cam Unfortunately, I'm not going to say what you should do now as I don't have much experience with your engine and your car isn't in front of me so that is your choice.
If you are unsure, don't start the engine and seek professional advice.
Good luck. 👍
Thank you for your advice!
Tşk Ederim kardeşim
Sorun değil 👍🏾
Excellent video although I would always replace the water pump as my s80 pump siezed.
Yours is literally the first Volvo water pump I've ever heard of seizing.
Are you sure it was the original pump?
@@sirobb yes just took the timing cover off today, definately siezed. Do you know what damage could be, some say put a belt kit on to see
If it's fully seized, I can't see how the engine can run anymore as the timing belt would have skipped teeth.
You'd need to check the timing first then replace the pump with a genuine Volvo one initially and see if the engine can be turned.
@@sirobb can't see any volvo stamp on the pump so guess it's not volvo, neither is the belt. Put a belt kit on it today, turns over with a socket so will try starting it tomorrow. Thanks for responding
Do you not get new bolts in the Volvo kit for the Tensioner and idler? Never seen that before. Most Dealer kits and OEM equivalent kits have bolts I found. Remember most belts are made by others even if it says Volvo. Same as Engine oil. Asda does not make their own oil. They used to get it from Castrol. That may of changed though. The Volvo warranty might be good but if you fit it yourself the warranty might not matter at all. Check there terms and conditions about warranty. They might want a garage to do it that is VAT registered.
Just changed my belt on my xc70. The water pump was gritty as you turned the wheel. You'd have never picked that up on spinning it in situ
Hi SirRob, after setting the camshaft and crankshaft timing before removing the old belt, how to lock the pulleys to keep the timing in place whilst fiddling everything? I have done duratec engine which we will lock the crankshaft with pin and a flat bar on the camshaft.
How about this D5?
Cheers.