This is a FANTASTIC VIDEO about how to time these engines! I am in the middle of replacing cam seals and wasn’t too sure of how all of this came together once apart. The details that are explained here are what every UA-cam video needs.
My hats off to you my friend. This video is the only video that properly explains the procedure and how its design is failsafe. As a fellow mechanic and years of experience. timing has always been set to TDC. Volvo has totally simplified the procedure, by taking TDC out of the equation. and seems that no-one understands the reason the crankshaft locking pin is so relevant. most mechanics have the mindset of the crank doesn't move so easily that it will during the belt installation, so they see no need to use it. those are the ones stuck on TDC.I have always only used the physical timing marks as a ballpark reference on all vehicles Especially ford where the harmonic Bal has a tendency to rotate on the rubber. True TDC achieved by inserting the oil dipstick into the sparkplug hole and observe its travel. doesn't matter what the crankshaft mark position is. They don't understand that the piston is locked slightly below the surface of the block so the cams can be rotated without interfering with the valves especially after a broken belt. using the locking pin setting the crank in the correct position FIRST, cam rotation is safe. thank you ANGEL CAR CARE and Volvo
Your intake sprocket was off by one cog. You did a huge amount of work for one intake cam cog. All that matters is that the marks are within a cog to the indicator on the plastic cowling. You only need the cam locking tool if you’re removing the valve cover or the cam sprockets.
True, Ive done several timing belts on this engine and a cam sprocket - I wouldnt use cam locker just for timing. By removing the timing belt with the crank dead center you can move the cam sprockets slightly then reinstall the belt until everything is lined up.
Yes good video. The marks on the cover and vvt gears are just a ball park reference for inspection only not for setting the timing. The locking tools locks the zero reference timing in place(remember the cam gears vary the cam timing while running). With the cams and crank locked in place, you want to set your belt tension before you torque the cam gears. Always loosen the gears, even if you do not change the seals. But just loose enough so that the cam gears rotate independent of the cams. You do not want them "sloppy loose". But then again why would you not change the seals and re seal the cam cover anyway? If not the slack taken up by the tensioner can preload one or both of the vvt gears. Remember the tensioner will pull the cams slightly counter clockwise. It can be subtle enough to even pull the cams slightly out after the lock tool is removed. The results could vary from, bent valves, poor idle and check engine light. The check engine light may not show up until the end of an oil life cycle. Then you will end up ghost chasing a vvt issue. The tool is relatively cheap, and its the only right way to do the job.
question since the tool locks cams to TDC and the pulleys don't really matter, how is it after I did what u recommended and removed the lock tool last, now instead of missing by alot on the exhaust (-18°) and poor idle I now get -6° but thankfully no CEL ? only on exhaust cam, intake is like -0.8° deviation via VIDA. the tool locked cams in place until after I tightened the belt. for the love of earth can't figure this out.
Yup - once he discovered the intake was out of time, he ended up pretty much looking like the weird diagram depicts. Why didn't they put the notches in the cover where they belong, or the tick marks on the sprockets? Someone trying to save some $?
I would try several other options before welding to get that bolt out. These dont rust out like exhaust bolts. With torx it is critical to clean the bolt socket completely, use a high quality new condition bit and tap the bit in firmly Before turning to remove. Most of the time the bolt will loosen. If you strip it next step for me is to dremel a line in the bolt and try a large screwdriver head. You can also tap counter clockwise with a punch or use a spring punch.
Correct. Another method is taking a torch to the torx BIT. Insert red hot, no turning. Let it sit in there a good 30 seconds. You're walking to the refrigerator. A reliable tiny water squirt gun has been sitting in the coldest part of your refrigerator a few hours (NOT FREEZER). You want to squirt that cold water on that hot head immediately after removing the hot torx BIT. Another room temperature but not the one you heated, on an extension bar, apply light pressure, simultaneously tapping the metal handle of your extension bar. If that doesn't work, skip the squirt gun but let it cool a minute or so so hard torx BIT doesn't strip out hot, softer metal torx head. Hopefully the thread tight or varnish bond has weakened. That welding a nut is pretty extreme but I suppose in a practice done rapidly and deftly, may be ok. He didn't show the technique, but he's obviously spot tigging the center of the nut with a flux stick to do it rapidly as possible. And everything has to be super clean nut threads and torx head socket. There's a lot of prep he skipped over. Very nice little job, but it's not possible without prep. It wouldn't work if there was anything oily on anything, so it didn't just jump on there. But it's an idea I see as last resort. Always try hot and cold and 'shocking' the bolt before jumping since there are shop dangers welding and the prep of surfaces for welding is time I usually beat that method using heat & shocking it. Additionally I usually have luxury of penetrating oil sitting overnight, usually adding penetrating oil applications 4-5 times in 24 hours, shocking it each application. That's when I'm most likely to release frozen bolts myself. Butane hand torch probably my second most successful, applying shock treatments in between. For bolts you can't correctly heat like these torx, I'll heat a bit with the torch, usually one already a little worn I don't care about, since all it has to do is transfer heat hotter than the engine gets normally.
Where can i get the tool on 1:45 can you please let me know maybe a part number or something so i can find it online i was able to find the other one on amazon but this one i cant find it anywhere, thanks in advance very good job.
Es la primera vez, el problema fue que salto una biela y se rompió el Block calculo por falta de aceite o la bomba, voy a tener que comprar la herramienta, gracias me gustan tus videos bien detallado
But if I suspect that someone previously had reinstalled at least one of sprockets and I would like to ensure they both are in perfect alignment so I will lock cams from the back and loosen up sprockets bolts - will I have to turn them around CLOCKWISE fully and until marks are matching the notches before tightening (new) sprocket bolts? Since sprockets are variable they might be installed on cams not perfectly in right position irrespective of cams locked on the back.
I’m trying to set the timing on my Volvo 2004 S4 T5 turbo I looked at your video and the lines at the backside of the backside of the cam where you put the cam locking tool I aligned them but I can’t find a low notch marks on the front side of the cam by the wheel to line them up, right
Here's a tip....I put oxy acetylene heat to the rear torx head bolts at the rear of the cam...about 15 seconds worth.. small flame.. when it just starts to turn red that's enough... let it cool for a minute and I guarantee you they'll come out really easy.
I did as well, with no tools...but had the exhaust cam off a tad which made for hard start and the exhaust to glow red....why I am here looking....I got it now...
@@alexanderstevens145 No. He probably had it out because he was doing multiple things. With a proper lift and engine hoist, it's probably the easiest way to work on it.
If the camshaft locking tool fits properly then it doesn't really matter how the timing marks on the sprockets line up with the timing cover, because if you are sure piston 1 is at TDC then the timing is guaranteed to be correct. Timing marks can move if the sprockets have previously been loosened and re-torqued in a slightly different position. The camshaft screws at the other end can easily get the heads chewed up but I've never had a problem removing them with a T30 torx bit on an impact wrench. There's plenty of room to get an impact wrench on them with the engine out of the car too.
@@donmoore7785 what do you mean? When the crank locking pin is in, piston 1 is at TDC. I even have photos which prove this, I took them when I did a complete top end rebuild.
@Non-Stick_Pan im in the middle of a head gasket job and after lining up crank to its mark on the block and removing the cylinder head, the #1 piston does not appear to be at TDC. It still has some travel before it gets flush with the top of the block and when it is, the marks no longer line up
The picture he pulled up on the computer is spot on if you pay close attention to it. Everything else is just precautionary and not something most would do when they work on cars themselves in the garage. The left pulley should be half a tooth to the left of the marking and the right pulley should be half a tooth to the right of the marking. Perfect timing.
Thanks for the information. Thinking about buying one of these and like to know what sort of maintenance is needed and how much of a PITA it's going to be. Let's me determine how much I'm willing to pay someone else to do it versus doing it myself :)
I am wondering what if you are removing the cam sprockets how do you make Shure you put them back correctly are they keyed or do you have to make Shure the cam locking tool is never removed and then put the sprockets back exactly the same as they came off
Thank you for this perfect video. I have a 2007 C70 and had to replace the front camshaft seals, so I had to take those gears out and put them back, they take a t55 with 120 torque, I didn't have room to put my torx bit and obviously was not 120 torque, I have to redone the timing now again, tomorrow maybe. My question to you, when you lock the crankshaft, is there a hoe to put the tool or is just the open part of the crankshaft. I put it there going clockwise and it stop, but going back it was totally free...so I wonder if it have to be this way or completely lock if the tool is there. To take the screws in the camshaft rotor I use my air wrench, the very small and slowly but firmly I was able to take them intact and reuse them. Thank you again, very helpful
Concerning the crankshaft lock tool, it has to have the crank rotated against it. So seat the crank against the tool by Turing the crankshaft BACKWARDS. See the video at the ~ 2:00 min mark and it explains it. It seats against the crank in the opposite direction of normal rotation so if the tool is accidentally left in, it will self eject if someone tries to start the engine. again, see the video. Hope your job goes well
Thanks for this video. I rotated the crankcase after the timing belt was removed. Is the fix simply to use the alignment pen to position the crankshaft? Does this ensure correct timing?
There is risk of valve damage when the crankshaft is rotated with out the timing belt on and in proper time. The proper check would be to install a new timing belt using the tools and method in the video and do a compression test. Hope that helps.
@@johnangeleri7336 yeah... I destroyed two exhaust valves and had to take it to an independent shop to fix. Cost a pretty penny but it also gave a chance to inspect internals of engine. Ended up replacing all valve seals. One of the lessons for me is to complete one job at a time!!! I have to keep the car for life now to make up for the cost! I’m not mad about that though...
Hi great video. Do you adjust the camshafts using the camshaft locking tool ? I have the same problem that my camshaft are not in line ,I have the exact same locking kit as you have. Any help will be greatly appreciated . Mally
The Camshaft VVT sprockets are not keyed. That's how you get the engine perfectly timed. Close enough as shown here. A more precise method would be to loosen the front cam bolts and tighten them with belt (and marks aligned) in place.
Actually, it turns out that the mark was so far off on the intake cam because it WAS a tooth off. And the diagram in the manual DOES match what you ended up with after installing the tool on the back side - however, the marks appear to be a half tooth off in each direction, which is kind of bogus. You don't actually need that tool as it turns out.
the thing is with these POS cam gears is - they don't matter. they're floating. you can unscrew them from the cam and screw them in 90 degrees later, and it will fit and even work. what matter is the lock tool in the back of the cam locking it at presumably TDC. the front cog marks are just marks for reference, it doesn't matter if u miss a tooth when u put it back on AS LONG AS the cams are TDC
Great video. This will help greatly, as I have stripped the screw on the camshaft. Do you have any idea of the part number? I cannot find it on the Volvo part catalog.
We were spoiled enough to have a parts motor...that we still have. If you send your mailing address to email in the opening of the video, I will put the extra screw in an envelope to you. Thanks for watching.
@@angelcarcare2499 Thank you very much for the offer. I found thepart number from Volvo and got one delivered. I cannot thank you enough for your video, as It allowed me to complete the job successfully.
So basically this is the best and most reasonable explanation regarding timing on B5 engines. I really hate it when people just use markers and draw lines on the block / head and that is it. Personally I would rather invest into the locking tool than in a new engine. So one question though. The same tools apply to the 2.3 Turbo engine B5234T4 too ?
Hey so the Volvo dealer told me the reason for my check engine light is a incorrectly instaled timing and serpentine belt? Is that true or just a scam bcuz my car runs fine
@@foojub6907 thanks for the correct info. People who think they know everything have no interest in learning factual info ... can"t be taught anything,and have no interest in continuing to educate theirselves
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a FANTASTIC VIDEO about how to time these engines! I am in the middle of replacing cam seals and wasn’t too sure of how all of this came together once apart. The details that are explained here are what every UA-cam video needs.
Thanks for the encouragement! glad to help.
My hats off to you my friend. This video is the only video that properly explains the procedure and how its design is failsafe. As a fellow mechanic and years of experience. timing has always been set to TDC. Volvo has totally simplified the procedure, by taking TDC out of the equation. and seems that no-one understands the reason the crankshaft locking pin is so relevant. most mechanics have the mindset of the crank doesn't move so easily that it will during the belt installation, so they see no need to use it. those are the ones stuck on TDC.I have always only used the physical timing marks as a ballpark reference on all vehicles Especially ford where the harmonic Bal has a tendency to rotate on the rubber. True TDC achieved by inserting the oil dipstick into the sparkplug hole and observe its travel. doesn't matter what the crankshaft mark position is. They don't understand that the piston is locked slightly below the surface of the block so the cams can be rotated without interfering with the valves especially after a broken belt. using the locking pin setting the crank in the correct position FIRST, cam rotation is safe. thank you ANGEL CAR CARE and Volvo
I also did this timing belt change without using camlocking tools, car was Volvo S40 T5 (2.5T) with same engine as the S60 T5.
Your intake sprocket was off by one cog. You did a huge amount of work for one intake cam cog. All that matters is that the marks are within a cog to the indicator on the plastic cowling. You only need the cam locking tool if you’re removing the valve cover or the cam sprockets.
True, Ive done several timing belts on this engine and a cam sprocket - I wouldnt use cam locker just for timing. By removing the timing belt with the crank dead center you can move the cam sprockets slightly then reinstall the belt until everything is lined up.
or the belt breaks
How would it be possible to accidentally start the engine if that tool will only go in with the starter off the engine
😂😂
Yes good video. The marks on the cover and vvt gears are just a ball park reference for inspection only not for setting the timing. The locking tools locks the zero reference timing in place(remember the cam gears vary the cam timing while running). With the cams and crank locked in place, you want to set your belt tension before you torque the cam gears. Always loosen the gears, even if you do not change the seals. But just loose enough so that the cam gears rotate independent of the cams. You do not want them "sloppy loose". But then again why would you not change the seals and re seal the cam cover anyway? If not the slack taken up by the tensioner can preload one or both of the vvt gears. Remember the tensioner will pull the cams slightly counter clockwise. It can be subtle enough to even pull the cams slightly out after the lock tool is removed. The results could vary from, bent valves, poor idle and check engine light. The check engine light may not show up until the end of an oil life cycle. Then you will end up ghost chasing a vvt issue. The tool is relatively cheap, and its the only right way to do the job.
Do you have a part number for the crank locking tool by chance?
question since the tool locks cams to TDC and the pulleys don't really matter, how is it after I did what u recommended and removed the lock tool last, now instead of missing by alot on the exhaust (-18°) and poor idle I now get -6° but thankfully no CEL ? only on exhaust cam, intake is like -0.8° deviation via VIDA. the tool locked cams in place until after I tightened the belt. for the love of earth can't figure this out.
you can see @ 1:22 that the manual shows the marks NOT being straight down of the notch. Thanks for the video!
Yup - once he discovered the intake was out of time, he ended up pretty much looking like the weird diagram depicts. Why didn't they put the notches in the cover where they belong, or the tick marks on the sprockets? Someone trying to save some $?
Brilliant brilliant video my friend. Thank you very much for the info!
I would try several other options before welding to get that bolt out. These dont rust out like exhaust bolts. With torx it is critical to clean the bolt socket completely, use a high quality new condition bit and tap the bit in firmly Before turning to remove. Most of the time the bolt will loosen. If you strip it next step for me is to dremel a line in the bolt and try a large screwdriver head. You can also tap counter clockwise with a punch or use a spring punch.
Correct. Another method is taking a torch to the torx BIT. Insert red hot, no turning. Let it sit in there a good 30 seconds. You're walking to the refrigerator. A reliable tiny water squirt gun has been sitting in the coldest part of your refrigerator a few hours (NOT FREEZER). You want to squirt that cold water on that hot head immediately after removing the hot torx BIT. Another room temperature but not the one you heated, on an extension bar, apply light pressure, simultaneously tapping the metal handle of your extension bar. If that doesn't work, skip the squirt gun but let it cool a minute or so so hard torx BIT doesn't strip out hot, softer metal torx head. Hopefully the thread tight or varnish bond has weakened. That welding a nut is pretty extreme but I suppose in a practice done rapidly and deftly, may be ok. He didn't show the technique, but he's obviously spot tigging the center of the nut with a flux stick to do it rapidly as possible. And everything has to be super clean nut threads and torx head socket. There's a lot of prep he skipped over. Very nice little job, but it's not possible without prep. It wouldn't work if there was anything oily on anything, so it didn't just jump on there. But it's an idea I see as last resort. Always try hot and cold and 'shocking' the bolt before jumping since there are shop dangers welding and the prep of surfaces for welding is time I usually beat that method using heat & shocking it. Additionally I usually have luxury of penetrating oil sitting overnight, usually adding penetrating oil applications 4-5 times in 24 hours, shocking it each application. That's when I'm most likely to release frozen bolts myself. Butane hand torch probably my second most successful, applying shock treatments in between. For bolts you can't correctly heat like these torx, I'll heat a bit with the torch, usually one already a little worn I don't care about, since all it has to do is transfer heat hotter than the engine gets normally.
Shouldn't the flat on the alignment tool be against the flat on the crankshaft?
Where can i get the tool on 1:45 can you please let me know maybe a part number or something so i can find it online i was able to find the other one on amazon but this one i cant find it anywhere, thanks in advance very good job.
Es la primera vez, el problema fue que salto una biela y se rompió el Block calculo por falta de aceite o la bomba, voy a tener que comprar la herramienta, gracias me gustan tus videos bien detallado
Hola, una pregunta los engranajes no hay dejarlos suelto armar todo y después apretar todo
Good video, very well done. I'm fixing the rear quarter on the one we bought and getting rid of it.
Ppppp
But if I suspect that someone previously had reinstalled at least one of sprockets and I would like to ensure they both are in perfect alignment so I will lock cams from the back and loosen up sprockets bolts - will I have to turn them around CLOCKWISE fully and until marks are matching the notches before tightening (new) sprocket bolts? Since sprockets are variable they might be installed on cams not perfectly in right position irrespective of cams locked on the back.
I’m trying to set the timing on my Volvo 2004 S4 T5 turbo I looked at your video and the lines at the backside of the backside of the cam where you put the cam locking tool I aligned them but I can’t find a low notch marks on the front side of the cam by the wheel to line them up, right
Here's a tip....I put oxy acetylene heat to the rear torx head bolts at the rear of the cam...about 15 seconds worth.. small flame.. when it just starts to turn red that's enough... let it cool for a minute and I guarantee you they'll come out really easy.
I did it on two of these engines without special tools using only the matchmarks.
I did as well, with no tools...but had the exhaust cam off a tad which made for hard start and the exhaust to glow red....why I am here looking....I got it now...
Tools will help you only do the job once.
Does the engine have to come completely out for this job?
@@alexanderstevens145 No. He probably had it out because he was doing multiple things. With a proper lift and engine hoist, it's probably the easiest way to work on it.
Nice car thanks for the reviews you guys do a nice job
How could you accidentally start the engine with the crank pin in the motor?
If the camshaft locking tool fits properly then it doesn't really matter how the timing marks on the sprockets line up with the timing cover, because if you are sure piston 1 is at TDC then the timing is guaranteed to be correct. Timing marks can move if the sprockets have previously been loosened and re-torqued in a slightly different position. The camshaft screws at the other end can easily get the heads chewed up but I've never had a problem removing them with a T30 torx bit on an impact wrench. There's plenty of room to get an impact wrench on them with the engine out of the car too.
These engines do not follow the TDC rule
@@donmoore7785 what do you mean? When the crank locking pin is in, piston 1 is at TDC. I even have photos which prove this, I took them when I did a complete top end rebuild.
@Non-Stick_Pan im in the middle of a head gasket job and after lining up crank to its mark on the block and removing the cylinder head, the #1 piston does not appear to be at TDC. It still has some travel before it gets flush with the top of the block and when it is, the marks no longer line up
@@TommyRz if we are talking about just a mm or so under flush that’s normal.
@@Non-Stick_Pan ok thanks for replying. First time doing a volvo head and was looking for more information
If timing is know good before the belt is removed could you not just mark positions with a paint pen and straight edge?
The picture he pulled up on the computer is spot on if you pay close attention to it. Everything else is just precautionary and not something most would do when they work on cars themselves in the garage. The left pulley should be half a tooth to the left of the marking and the right pulley should be half a tooth to the right of the marking. Perfect timing.
What about the belt tensioner?
How much would a used t5 engine cost?
Thanks for the information. Thinking about buying one of these and like to know what sort of maintenance is needed and how much of a PITA it's going to be. Let's me determine how much I'm willing to pay someone else to do it versus doing it myself :)
What if I rolled the cam wheel backwards?
does this tool works with 2014 s60 2.5???
I am wondering what if you are removing the cam sprockets how do you make Shure you put them back correctly are they keyed or do you have to make Shure the cam locking tool is never removed and then put the sprockets back exactly the same as they came off
I wish u had showed where to set the tensionor
love a good advice lots of new information
Hello, i' m living in Brazil. Thank you for your vídeo. This vídeo helpy me more. Sorry my inglês for don't os good, OK? I like you vídeo.
Excellent video my friend
Thank you for this perfect video. I have a 2007 C70 and had to replace the front camshaft seals, so I had to take those gears out and put them back, they take a t55 with 120 torque, I didn't have room to put my torx bit and obviously was not 120 torque, I have to redone the timing now again, tomorrow maybe. My question to you, when you lock the crankshaft, is there a hoe to put the tool or is just the open part of the crankshaft. I put it there going clockwise and it stop, but going back it was totally free...so I wonder if it have to be this way or completely lock if the tool is there. To take the screws in the camshaft rotor I use my air wrench, the very small and slowly but firmly I was able to take them intact and reuse them. Thank you again, very helpful
Concerning the crankshaft lock tool, it has to have the crank rotated against it. So seat the crank against the tool by Turing the crankshaft BACKWARDS. See the video at the ~ 2:00 min mark and it explains it. It seats against the crank in the opposite direction of normal rotation so if the tool is accidentally left in, it will self eject if someone tries to start the engine. again, see the video. Hope your job goes well
Thanks for this video. I rotated the crankcase after the timing belt was removed. Is the fix simply to use the alignment pen to position the crankshaft? Does this ensure correct timing?
There is risk of valve damage when the crankshaft is rotated with out the timing belt on and in proper time. The proper check would be to install a new timing belt using the tools and method in the video and do a compression test.
Hope that helps.
@@johnangeleri7336 yeah... I destroyed two exhaust valves and had to take it to an independent shop to fix. Cost a pretty penny but it also gave a chance to inspect internals of engine. Ended up replacing all valve seals. One of the lessons for me is to complete one job at a time!!! I have to keep the car for life now to make up for the cost! I’m not mad about that though...
Donde puedo conseguir esas herramientas ??? Las necesito urgente
Hi great video.
Do you adjust the camshafts using the camshaft locking tool ?
I have the same problem that my camshaft are not in line ,I have the exact same locking kit as you have.
Any help will be greatly appreciated .
Mally
Maybe the next tooth?
How to set timing Volvo 20T
Is the cam sprocket keyed ? As some have no key and can be loosened and moved to the mark, especially as it locks in place at the other end...😉
The Camshaft VVT sprockets are not keyed. That's how you get the engine perfectly timed. Close enough as shown here. A more precise method would be to loosen the front cam bolts and tighten them with belt (and marks aligned) in place.
Hola u may can’t install the starter because the crank tool will be in the way so no way u can crank accidentally
Actually, it turns out that the mark was so far off on the intake cam because it WAS a tooth off. And the diagram in the manual DOES match what you ended up with after installing the tool on the back side - however, the marks appear to be a half tooth off in each direction, which is kind of bogus. You don't actually need that tool as it turns out.
the thing is with these POS cam gears is - they don't matter. they're floating. you can unscrew them from the cam and screw them in 90 degrees later, and it will fit and even work. what matter is the lock tool in the back of the cam locking it at presumably TDC. the front cog marks are just marks for reference, it doesn't matter if u miss a tooth when u put it back on AS LONG AS the cams are TDC
Thanks for the great video.
What are the torque specs for the tensioner?
Are the VVT hubs sprung like on the P2 RN engines or are they locked solid? Great vid bro
Good job.
Other no show of tools 4 set timing belt
Great video. This will help greatly, as I have stripped the screw on the camshaft. Do you have any idea of the part number? I cannot find it on the Volvo part catalog.
We were spoiled enough to have a parts motor...that we still have. If you send your mailing address to email in the opening of the video, I will put the extra screw in an envelope to you. Thanks for watching.
@@angelcarcare2499 Thank you very much for the offer. I found thepart number from Volvo and got one delivered. I cannot thank you enough for your video, as It allowed me to complete the job successfully.
There's you like and new suscriber thank you sir for you time and knowledge
So marks on the cover were ok...it looked like it was a tooth off, and it was.
Bingo. Once corrected, it matched the diagram in the book.
What special tools do you need and where can they be purchased?
This is and advertisement of "angel car care" service, he is specially do not talk about taming belt setup and no brand or code of special tools)))
Great video!! Came in handy
So basically this is the best and most reasonable explanation regarding timing on B5 engines. I really hate it when people just use markers and draw lines on the block / head and that is it. Personally I would rather invest into the locking tool than in a new engine. So one question though. The same tools apply to the 2.3 Turbo engine B5234T4 too ?
The tool isn't even needed. The diagram turned out to be correct. All he needed to do was rotate the intake sprocket one tooth.
Is this the same for the B4204T9 (2.0 T6)? Thanks for the video.
No. that engine uses fixtures mounted to the front of the engine that hold the sprockets in place.
@@johnangeleri7336 Thanks
Have to do this one soon lol!!! Great Vid!!!
Excelente 👌 Grasias muy Bueno
god bless people like you who can do this lol i just wont buy the car
Hey so the Volvo dealer told me the reason for my check engine light is a incorrectly instaled timing and serpentine belt? Is that true or just a scam bcuz my car runs fine
get a
code reader to see for yourself
whats the crank tool called and where can i purchase it
Amazon 44 bucks and you get the cam locking tool with it and the cam gear pullers
God bless you for sharing this video
I think it’s funny how they continue to use the T5 because the old five cylinder was the best motor they’ve ever made
Don't you understand why this is? Fuel economy. You're welcome.
Great video 👍👍👍👍👍
El video buenísimo justamente estoy armando uno
"only a slob would do that" .. haha love it
Joo sulla ei ollu aiemmin ajoitus kohdillaan. Jos laitat sen merkin muovissa paikoilleen ni se saattas ollakki oikein.
Why you need some sophisticated tools? Change tooth at the belt since both camshaft are aligned. Is a quantic problem (digital), not analogic!!
Bonito vídeo gracias de mucha ayuda
This looks very similar to the Ford xr5 turbo engine...then again they are Volvo engines
Great video
muy bueno saludo desde argentina
nice vidio thanks for that
On aimerai bien recevoir ce tuto en français.... Merci Ⓜ📧®©❗
Thank you So much Mr
No need to weld a nut to that. Just drill it out. Way faster.
Manufacturers should use metal marks.
True
Volvos are really frustrating to work on. Its like they were never designed to be repaired.
Thanks
Welp ... not doin this!
😂
Usefully!
marks are fine ive done this job 1000 times! DONT BUY THAT EXPENSIVE TOOL!
So...volvo t5s are not 4 cylinder. Extraneous information not necessary.
They were 5 cylinders until drive e, then you got T5's that were 4 cylinder...
@@foojub6907 no. T5...the 5 stands for ... let's see 5 cylinders...
@@georgesedeno7891 I'm well aware. And you are now aware that past 2014, s60 T5 and T6 included 4 cylinders, not just 5 and 6 cylinders respectively
@@foojub6907 ho hum...zzzzz!
@@foojub6907 thanks for the correct info. People who think they know everything have no interest in learning factual info ... can"t be taught anything,and have no interest in continuing to educate theirselves