fun fact... only 0.1% of people watching this video will ever own an anvil or have any reason to know this. also... shorts are the digital version of brain cancer.
If you put down a layer of silicone caulking under the anvil, it won't ring. A magnet on the sides can help with the noise, but silicone works so much better and doesn't attract debris or get knocked off.
High quality forged steel or cast steel (not cast iron) anvils will ring. It is really nice feature for renaissance shows, art/crafts fairs as it will surely bring in the crowds. In the long term though, 20-30 years in the trade the loud ring will surely lead to (some) hearing loss. Try to imagine good anvils as musical tuning forks. The colder the material one works with or the further to the edges (horn and heel) one works the louder the ring will be. The closer toward the ends of the anvil you can place a magnet, the more absorbed the sound, the more quiet the anvil gets. One can glue down the anvil, sand absorbs the shocks for sure, wrap chain around the waist, secure it down with bolts … there are many different approaches which will work for each one of us. I myself used stumps with “sunken in” anvils, 1/8”-1/4” thick lead sheet (flattened from old pipes) underneath the anvil and silicone coated neodymium magnets placed underneath the horn and heel. May your forge never get cold, may your anvil never get rusty and may God give you all good strength to swing the hammer for decades.
It’s a matter of preference, you can’t keep a sharp corner forever. It’s safer to just remove it from the start. If you need a sharp edge, you can make a tool that work much better than the anvil
@@CannonBottomCreationstheres not really a much better tool, than an anvil, for making a square edge. So id definitely leave the less prefered side, square. And round off the side youde prefer to work with less. And leave the secondary side square. Cause youre gonna use one side more than the other. Leave one side with sharp coners, so you have a more versitile anvil to make sharper square corners.
Actually phythagoras came up with the first music theory and intervals when he was walking by and heard different tones from different anvils struck by different weight hammers.
@@CannonBottomCreations no sir I don’t plan on it, but sadly I don’t get to forge all the often anymore, building power plants as a boiler maker takes up a lot of time
@@NathanWaghernah, you can route that. I have routers of all sizes for various jobs and they'd all do this one. You just take a little bit at a time if you need to, then go deeper each pass. My big routers 3.5 HP would do it all at once.
It doesn't need to be a plunge router. Just angle it in. Any good size router with a carbide bit will do. Settle the anvil into the base about 3/4 of an inch and it wont move . It may need some strapping if it is under 70 lbs. I route the outer 1 inch to a depth and then route the field a little deeper to forego rocking. For a large anvil you may want to leave some strips for support till the final cut.
I personally only took the edge off 6” of the right side of my anvil and the rest I left sharp. Don’t miss and hit the edges. Sometimes I want a sharp edge to forge and other times I want to use that right side of the anvil. I used silicone and sand to muffle the nose as well as a chain. That’s just on my main anvils, I have a ton of them.
Dont grind off _all_ the sharp edges like an imbecile though. They're important for shaping unless you want to buy or create a dedicated tool to serve a purpose you removed from your original work station...
Siliconed mine down with 8" laggs and some 1' flat bar going across the feet and its got zero ring.. added a magnet to it and it didnt change anything......silicone worked perfect.....its been like that for 4 years now
@@CannonBottomCreations Also after reading through the comments I wanna say this. Be very careful of who you take advice from here on youtube or the internet in general. There are alot of Forged in Fire binge watchers who think that since they have seen that show they know what they are talking about..There is always more then one way to skin a cat but Some ppl have never tried. There are even some UA-camr who give bad info or promote bad habits etc....For example: Tapping the hammer on the anvil before striking your work. Ive heard ppl say its to get the hammer back up easier. False cause you can see them lift it up just the same. Heard its to cool the hammer face off....Also false...Quick taps is not enough time nor surface area to transfer heat out of the hammer plus anyone who has forged anything will know that the anvil heats up far hotter then that and if that were the case the hotter anvil would only heat the hammer up more.....Find some established makers doing what you wanna do and follow them and try to reach out over Instagram and talk to them and get your tips and advise from them... Noface youtube accounts could be anyone. And always remember that no one above you is going to try to knock you back down. Only those under you. Theres some good info out there but just wanted to say not to take just anyones advice...after all....there are ppl in india banging out stuff with rocks and making it work.
This is kind of my opinion and well it's actually kind of fact, if you have the ability and a welder add material, well worth the same amount of time you put in the stump. To make a steel base for the anvil adding Mass to it. Yes the tree stump does add Mass but it adds spongy Mass. And clamp the ears of anvil and there is no ring.
Instead of carving out a base for the Anvil make sure there's a level surface drill 4 3/4 inch holes around the Anvil on some pinch points and use railroad spikes to attach it take a lot less time if it ever were to get loose you just smack the spikes
Two problems, one you wouldnt want to round your edges you need that for cuts among other things Two, I would think inserting the anvil into the wood will cause it to hold water
Great video. I used to be a welding inspector. Your note about clearing the sharps are phenomenal steps to take on any metal build that doesnt need a sharp edge. This is the difference between months or years in life expectancies to life time.
The ring puts me in a trance though, making the process more enjoyable for me 😅 I would probably use the magnets some days or sometimes, but that beautiful ring really gets me 🤌🏼
I put rubber under my anvil,,it gies a pleasant ringing sound,,the sound was so good ,I got a couple of musicians in and I played a tune on the anvil with them,
not surprizingly many serious anvil accidents involve skulls colliding with them, especially hitting a corner. a 1/8" chamfer will reduce g-forces roughly 10 times, and save a life.
Tell me how removing metal from your anvil in any way changes how gravity acts on your body? A rounded corner won't decelerate you meaningfully slower either so this is complete nonsense.
This is NOT "The Way." It is a way to set the anvil on it's base. He will find that with heavy use that sand will shift and the anvil will start to rock. Grinding the edges down is a big mistake. Those edges are useful working surfaces and don't need to be tampered with. If you worry about chipping the edges, learn hammer control. I have been using my main shop anvil for 15 years now and have not buggered an edge. Grinding down the edges is akin to rounding the edges your tires with a rasp to prevent feathering.
I'd reccomend putting some band clamps or something around the trunk, especially near the top. Over time the anvil will sink on one side more than the other, putting in outward force on that side. That looks like what, 200 pounds or more? if that log edge peels off and the anvil tips over... it won't be good. You have much less wood on one side than the other, and it looks like the trunk is almost undercut on that side too.
I appreciate the tip. I’m definitely going to put some steel bands around the base. 300 lb anvils are no joke and the last thing I want is for it to break that base.
Will probably need to forge a steel band to help keep that green oak from checking and the sand falling out. But then again after hurricane helene there are plenty of oak chunks around
I can never get over how people could look at the same thing and figure out a great solution. In the springtime when the winter from hell is over I'm going to try your technique.
Nothing replaces actually bolting down the anvil. My anvil stand is welded steel with sand in the legs and it is the deadest sound I've ever heard in an anvil!
I didn’t chisel mine but instead I used railroad spikes since their original purpose was to go in wood and hold steel tightly and it’s worked not a inch moved
@ right on thank you very much for the reply. I love tidbits. I have an old railroad track that I try to use as an anvil living in Hawaii. I have to pay twice as much is the cost of The anvil to get it here.
I have neither an anvil, a chainsaw, nor a whole tree to fell; and I have no intention of getting them. I will be locking this trick into my memory bank in case it ever comes in handy, thank you.
Sorry for the question that will sound stupid for you forging guys, but why does adding magnets change the sound? Well, I guess this changes the geometry of the whole thing... But, would welding a piece of steel on it give the same result? How about resting the anvil on horse stall matte?
You don’t learn if you don’t ask, so it’s not a stupid question. The magnets stop the vibrations in the anvil, like sticking your hand on a ringing bell. If you weld steel to it, it is just an extension of the anvil and the steel will vibrate too. Horse mat works, I have some under one of my anvils. It works, but the anvil still rings more than if I had magnets on it.
I always thought that anvils spawned on mount Olympus and were passed down through generations father to son. I never considered that they would need prep work.
@ I guess I’ve never seen a new anvil. Every one I’ve seen looks like it was recovered from a ship wreck. I’m a machinist not a blacksmith. It’s not often that I do anvil work.
I hate when manufacturers sell products unfinished. This isn't some DIY cookie cutter shed from home Depot it's a cast form block of iron. They have the tools and processes to smooth this down perfectly in house. These things are already $2,000+ might as well fully finish it.
Since you're filling with sand anyway, how important is it for the hole in the base match the anvils footprint? Could you just cut a rectangle and fill that with sand?
Old guy here. Both my anvils are Hay Budden 250 and 350lb. Both over 100 years old and minimal wear. I know new anvils are out there. What brand is this? What brands of new anvils are considered worthwhile?
the round hole is called the pritchel hole, the purpose of which is to allow the slug and punch tip to both pass through whichever work your punching. traditional bedding is horse dung if youve got access. ideally you should leave the entire edge facing your legs and the heel in its entirety sharp.
Used to be that anvil makers crafted them well enough that this would never be needed, alas, the great junkifying of all things has even reached this field of production
You guys should look into getting an anvil from the kid on here. Who's British UA-camr? Alec or Alex Steele? I think he makes his own anvil that you actually can bolt down. It's got holes in it. Drill some holes in that anvil to be able to bolt it down it would be much easier
@@CannonBottomCreations I never knew what the price was nor what a average price was. It just seemed like of all the UA-camrs I watched. He made a really good product but I don't know I'm not a blacksmith I'm just a meager welder
I am not wood working expert, so this is truly more of a question. But could you just use a router to hawg that wood out with made the assistance of the spade but.
You could use a router on it, but the wood was very dense and green. It would have burnt the router up, it was all I could do to cut it with the electric chainsaw. But, yes a router would work, I just didn’t use it this time.
So what or how does the magnet help with sound? Can it be any magnet? Is there a specific place to put it? I'm thinking on buying an anvil, that's why I'm asking so many questions
I just put out a short explaining it better than I could do in a comment. Give it a look if you’re interested. Also I can get you the info for the guy I got my anvil from. If you’re interested send me a message on instagram
Of all the times for this to pop up. Aussie here: we have a large fallen Ironbark tree (its hard wood), that I'll be cutting tomorrow to move, its not the sort of thing you'd visit twice with a saw, as its too far oit of the way. it might be time to get a base that's right height to work with
You don't cut out the bottom for the anvil! ! ! You cut the top to fit the bottom of the anvil ! If you cut the bottom there will not be a cutout for the anvil on the top ! And , , , you still need to fasten it to the wood ! Banding near the top is a very wise move !
Matter of preference, I’ve always heard it’s better to round all the edges. You’re not going to keep a sharp corner forever and you can just use a specific tool if you want a sharp edge
This is the result of having blacksmiths chisle out a block of hardwood, rather than having a carpenter do it for them...blacksmiths, stick to forging metal, and ask a carpenter to chisle out the hardwood for your anvil. We dont need sand to make it stable, cause we get the cuts right, without a chainsaw. Just sayin. Nice work... kinda. Needs a woodworker to make it perfect. But nice, considering your skill level with wood. 7/10.
@CannonBottomCreations nah, just get yourselves some professionals. Glad to see youre working on it, but dont seem to have it dialed in just yet. Good luck on that.
Idk much about this type of stuff but if I had to make this part I think I would skip threading that one end, machine it to a few thousandths oversized, press fit it then hit it with it 7018 and slap a “that ain’t goin nowhere”
Awesome evening yall everyone has their own way !!!! Brother you do you your way and you will be more happy !!!! Positive comments are welcomed negativity can just keep scrolling
@CannonBottomCreations yeh, I ended up using normal house screws around base like a border to stop movement, not ideal but it works. I've got a couple small magnets on there too, total game changer. I'ma get a whole bunch more on to see what happens 💪💪
You need to anchor the anvil to the stump with spikes or chain… It helps to keep the anvil from steeling the force from your hammer and it deadens the ringing… the magnets are useless.
The magnets if placed at the right spots can almost completely remove the resonance or ringing you hear, which can damage hearing and also ever heard of constructive feedback? Basically if you hit it at a rate where the hits line up with the peaks of the frequency in the ringing, the overall force the anvil will experience internally will be heavily increased over just the force applied from one hammer strike. This can actually cause damage, especially over time
@@CannonBottomCreations well that’s what I’m saying. As someone who actually studied blacksmithing and have been doing it for years now… I can assure you that they’re useless. Anvil that is properly secured to the stump with spikes and chains, or in stump with lead sheath under it…. Does not ring.
@@CannonBottomCreations and yes… it depends on the type of the anvil. If it’s anvil that was made nowadays, it was cast and it’s all hardened.( that’s the thing with American made anvils that are made these days and they ring like crazy) On the other hand, forged anvils from iron doesn’t sing. I have 2 of my anvils just placed on the stump and they does not ring. Guess how they were made…
Anyone interested on more info about the magnets and how they work, video is out NOW! Pinned above video title
Insert "Magnets - how do they work" meme?
But seriously, great video, and yes please.
There's a lot more to anvils than I thought, thanks!
That anvil has corners for purpose
The magnets dampen the sound so u don't get tinnitus
fun fact... only 0.1% of people watching this video will ever own an anvil or have any reason to know this. also... shorts are the digital version of brain cancer.
If you put down a layer of silicone caulking under the anvil, it won't ring. A magnet on the sides can help with the noise, but silicone works so much better and doesn't attract debris or get knocked off.
I have some ordered and on the way. I have some self leveling silicone so the anvil sits flat.
I really wanna call bullshit on this but I haven’t tested it. I’m angry that I can’t say tht u r wrong with full confidence
@@666koolzat least you get to be angry which is great in itself, isn't it?
@@666koolz. how about before you even imply that someone could be wrong, you do your research first?
. how about before you even imply that someone could be wrong, you do your research first
High quality forged steel or cast steel (not cast iron) anvils will ring. It is really nice feature for renaissance shows, art/crafts fairs as it will surely bring in the crowds. In the long term though, 20-30 years in the trade the loud ring will surely lead to (some) hearing loss.
Try to imagine good anvils as musical tuning forks. The colder the material one works with or the further to the edges (horn and heel) one works the louder the ring will be. The closer toward the ends of the anvil you can place a magnet, the more absorbed the sound, the more quiet the anvil gets.
One can glue down the anvil, sand absorbs the shocks for sure, wrap chain around the waist, secure it down with bolts … there are many different approaches which will work for each one of us.
I myself used stumps with “sunken in” anvils, 1/8”-1/4” thick lead sheet (flattened from old pipes) underneath the anvil and silicone coated neodymium magnets placed underneath the horn and heel.
May your forge never get cold, may your anvil never get rusty and may God give you all good strength to swing the hammer for decades.
This is by far my favorite comment! Thank you so much for your insight, I really appreciate it. Have a blessed one
You want at least one section of the anvil with sharp edges for specific forging tasks like putting a really sharp shoulder on a work peace
It’s a matter of preference, you can’t keep a sharp corner forever. It’s safer to just remove it from the start. If you need a sharp edge, you can make a tool that work much better than the anvil
@@CannonBottomCreationstheres not really a much better tool, than an anvil, for making a square edge.
So id definitely leave the less prefered side, square. And round off the side youde prefer to work with less. And leave the secondary side square. Cause youre gonna use one side more than the other.
Leave one side with sharp coners, so you have a more versitile anvil to make sharper square corners.
I prefer about 3 inches of sharp edge
I was thinking that as well but I guess that has more to do with metal working than blacksmithing
Leave one edge if you need to cut cable.
Am I the only guy or does the hammer hits
sound like music
Yeah, they really didn't need the music haha. Jesus loves you beyond measure! ❤
That’s part of why I do it… very soothing noise
Actually phythagoras came up with the first music theory and intervals when he was walking by and heard different tones from different anvils struck by different weight hammers.
The sweetest sound is the anvils ring.
You're the only guy. The anvil rings loud enough to cause hearing damage.
The round hole towards the heel of the anvil is called the Pritchel hole
Thank you, learn something new everyday
@ yessir! I’ve got my great grandpas 114 pound Peter wright anvil, pre England stamp!
That’s awesome! Don’t let that baby go
@@CannonBottomCreations no sir I don’t plan on it, but sadly I don’t get to forge all the often anymore, building power plants as a boiler maker takes up a lot of time
Yeah I know how it is. I’ve finally gotten time to get back into forging
Only thing I could think of to make that wood carving go faster is maybe using a plunge router?
Yea, I just didn’t have in on hand at the time. Great idea
That green oak would destroy a router or circular saw. Job well done with the tools you used
@@NathanWaghergood point it's easy enough to cut with sharp hand tools but that side grain is a bitch sometimes LOL
@@NathanWaghernah, you can route that. I have routers of all sizes for various jobs and they'd all do this one. You just take a little bit at a time if you need to, then go deeper each pass. My big routers 3.5 HP would do it all at once.
It doesn't need to be a plunge router. Just angle it in. Any good size router with a carbide bit will do. Settle the anvil into the base about 3/4 of an inch and it wont move . It may need some strapping if it is under 70 lbs. I route the outer 1 inch to a depth and then route the field a little deeper to forego rocking. For a large anvil you may want to leave some strips for support till the final cut.
I personally only took the edge off 6” of the right side of my anvil and the rest I left sharp. Don’t miss and hit the edges. Sometimes I want a sharp edge to forge and other times I want to use that right side of the anvil. I used silicone and sand to muffle the nose as well as a chain. That’s just on my main anvils, I have a ton of them.
Good thing is you can customize your anvil to make it your own, for your own desired uses
How many anvils in a ton?
@@bradleytenderholt5135not many
@@bradleytenderholt5135are you working in " tons" or metric "fucktonnes" - consistency's important 🤔🫣🤝
I was just gonna say, I often wanted a sharp edge on some things and wondered if it really is a huge safety hazard?
I *could* hear the difference with having magnets on the anvil if the music weren't getting in the way.
Get hearing aids
My bad
@@SaltySalt69 Really living up to your namesake, aren’cha?
@@thisiswhatilike54 are you just ignorant or rage baiting? Im thinking the first one.
I think he's right salt. Because
Thanks. I literally just got my new anvil today and had no idea that these things needed to be done to the anvil. The magnet hack was priceless.
Glad this video could help you out! Thanks for commenting
Dont grind off _all_ the sharp edges like an imbecile though. They're important for shaping unless you want to buy or create a dedicated tool to serve a purpose you removed from your original work station...
Me:*a mam that will likely never own an anvil*"ooooh i better watch this"
I’m truly grateful you did. Helps me out a lot!
Go buy one even if your not a blacksmith. If you have ever tried to knock a stick socket loose, having an anvil makes a huge difference.
@davemccage7918 once u buy my forever property(have one picked out just saving((it's in the fam)) I definitely will put one in the work shop
Siliconed mine down with 8" laggs and some 1' flat bar going across the feet and its got zero ring.. added a magnet to it and it didnt change anything......silicone worked perfect.....its been like that for 4 years now
I’m definitely trying the silicone, the bolt and bar method works well on my other anvil I have. Like you said, almost no ringing
@@CannonBottomCreations Also after reading through the comments I wanna say this. Be very careful of who you take advice from here on youtube or the internet in general. There are alot of Forged in Fire binge watchers who think that since they have seen that show they know what they are talking about..There is always more then one way to skin a cat but Some ppl have never tried. There are even some UA-camr who give bad info or promote bad habits etc....For example: Tapping the hammer on the anvil before striking your work. Ive heard ppl say its to get the hammer back up easier. False cause you can see them lift it up just the same. Heard its to cool the hammer face off....Also false...Quick taps is not enough time nor surface area to transfer heat out of the hammer plus anyone who has forged anything will know that the anvil heats up far hotter then that and if that were the case the hotter anvil would only heat the hammer up more.....Find some established makers doing what you wanna do and follow them and try to reach out over Instagram and talk to them and get your tips and advise from them... Noface youtube accounts could be anyone. And always remember that no one above you is going to try to knock you back down. Only those under you. Theres some good info out there but just wanted to say not to take just anyones advice...after all....there are ppl in india banging out stuff with rocks and making it work.
A lot of work Brother. Paid off though, didn't it? Beautiful anvil. As always, thank you for sharing.
Sure was, thank you for your appreciation ❤️
I personally like the ring of a anvil
It is a unique sound, but the loud ring is damaging to the ears
You must not use one very much
Maybe so, guess you’ll have to wait to find out
@@CannonBottomCreationswear ear plugs
Don’t get rid of the beautiful ringing sound 😢
I like seeing this kind of work it seems like these days people don’t like taking time to do anything right. Looks great 👍
Thank you very much
This is kind of my opinion and well it's actually kind of fact, if you have the ability and a welder add material, well worth the same amount of time you put in the stump. To make a steel base for the anvil adding Mass to it.
Yes the tree stump does add Mass but it adds spongy Mass. And clamp the ears of anvil and there is no ring.
Triangle file in a round hole? That hurt my brain
Yea I couldn’t find the round file, so I had to do what I had to do
"The triangle goes where? That's right, the square hole!"
@@Jitterbucksuch a classic
Ah.. let me just get my anvil i prepared earlier.. 😅
taking the edges off is not just about chipping, you need different radiuses on there for drawing out or shaping over the edge of the anvil.
Instead of carving out a base for the Anvil make sure there's a level surface drill 4 3/4 inch holes around the Anvil on some pinch points and use railroad spikes to attach it take a lot less time if it ever were to get loose you just smack the spikes
Thanks! Now I can rest assured knowing that even though I will never use an anvil, I know how to prepare one
Two problems,
one you wouldnt want to round your edges you need that for cuts among other things
Two, I would think inserting the anvil into the wood will cause it to hold water
Imagine how blacksmiths from the dark ages would react to this 😂
Great video. I used to be a welding inspector. Your note about clearing the sharps are phenomenal steps to take on any metal build that doesnt need a sharp edge. This is the difference between months or years in life expectancies to life time.
Thank you very much!
The ring puts me in a trance though, making the process more enjoyable for me 😅
I would probably use the magnets some days or sometimes, but that beautiful ring really gets me 🤌🏼
"You can really hear the sound difference" with loud music playing.
Many smiths use chain rapped around their anvil to both reduce vibration and hold it to the stump
Definitely doing this to my anvil in Minecraft for that extra immersion
Thanks for sharing. I never knew all the intricate aspects of caring for your tools of the trade.
Glad I could help you learn something new
Excellent video!😊
I put rubber under my anvil,,it gies a pleasant ringing sound,,the sound was so good ,I got a couple of musicians in and I played a tune on the anvil with them,
You could also bind together some 4x4s.
Great job mate 👍👍
not surprizingly many serious anvil accidents involve skulls colliding with them, especially hitting a corner. a 1/8" chamfer will reduce g-forces roughly 10 times, and save a life.
Tell me how removing metal from your anvil in any way changes how gravity acts on your body? A rounded corner won't decelerate you meaningfully slower either so this is complete nonsense.
do have an anvil? no. do i ever intend to get and use an anvil? also no. did i watch this and take notes? yes.
This is NOT "The Way." It is a way to set the anvil on it's base. He will find that with heavy use that sand will shift and the anvil will start to rock.
Grinding the edges down is a big mistake. Those edges are useful working surfaces and don't need to be tampered with. If you worry about chipping the edges, learn hammer control. I have been using my main shop anvil for 15 years now and have not buggered an edge. Grinding down the edges is akin to rounding the edges your tires with a rasp to prevent feathering.
I'd reccomend putting some band clamps or something around the trunk, especially near the top. Over time the anvil will sink on one side more than the other, putting in outward force on that side. That looks like what, 200 pounds or more? if that log edge peels off and the anvil tips over... it won't be good. You have much less wood on one side than the other, and it looks like the trunk is almost undercut on that side too.
I appreciate the tip. I’m definitely going to put some steel bands around the base. 300 lb anvils are no joke and the last thing I want is for it to break that base.
A plastic trash can filled with gravel and dirt will work if your poor as shit
Will probably need to forge a steel band to help keep that green oak from checking and the sand falling out. But then again after hurricane helene there are plenty of oak chunks around
I can never get over how people could look at the same thing and figure out a great solution. In the springtime when the winter from hell is over I'm going to try your technique.
Glad I could show you something new
A router for the anvil footprint, my dude.
Possibly, but the wood was very hard and still green so it would have burned up the router in no time. It was all the chainsaw could do to cut it
Nothing replaces actually bolting down the anvil. My anvil stand is welded steel with sand in the legs and it is the deadest sound I've ever heard in an anvil!
I didn’t chisel mine but instead I used railroad spikes since their original purpose was to go in wood and hold steel tightly and it’s worked not a inch moved
Very cool video. Thank you now I’m curious about the magnet. Maybe something about reducing vibration?
Yeah it reduces vibration, like sticking your hand on a ringing bell. Takes out the ring
@ right on thank you very much for the reply. I love tidbits. I have an old railroad track that I try to use as an anvil living in Hawaii. I have to pay twice as much is the cost of The anvil to get it here.
You’re welcome, getting “exotic” things in Hawaii isn’t quite costly.
RR iron works wonderful. Nice square edges on the bottom too.
"Get a sturdy base"
Proceeds to get a slanted trunk.
That log is just gonna rot.
Perfect fit. That’s is a huge anvil.
I have neither an anvil, a chainsaw, nor a whole tree to fell; and I have no intention of getting them. I will be locking this trick into my memory bank in case it ever comes in handy, thank you.
You’re very welcome
Sorry for the question that will sound stupid for you forging guys, but why does adding magnets change the sound? Well, I guess this changes the geometry of the whole thing... But, would welding a piece of steel on it give the same result?
How about resting the anvil on horse stall matte?
You don’t learn if you don’t ask, so it’s not a stupid question. The magnets stop the vibrations in the anvil, like sticking your hand on a ringing bell. If you weld steel to it, it is just an extension of the anvil and the steel will vibrate too. Horse mat works, I have some under one of my anvils. It works, but the anvil still rings more than if I had magnets on it.
@CannonBottomCreations
Thanks a lot for replying/answering.
Is it also for ring reduction some " wrap " a chain around the " waist " of the anvil?
Yes the chain trick works too, but I find the magnets are cheaper to replace, and not need as often as a chain
@@CannonBottomCreations
Thanks again!
Have a nice day!
You’re welcome!
Like wise
I always thought that anvils spawned on mount Olympus and were passed down through generations father to son. I never considered that they would need prep work.
Only if they’re new, or have had the work surface replaced.
@ I guess I’ve never seen a new anvil. Every one I’ve seen looks like it was recovered from a ship wreck. I’m a machinist not a blacksmith. It’s not often that I do anvil work.
I hate when manufacturers sell products unfinished. This isn't some DIY cookie cutter shed from home Depot it's a cast form block of iron. They have the tools and processes to smooth this down perfectly in house. These things are already $2,000+ might as well fully finish it.
I understand what you’re saying. But, the anvil is “finished” it allows for customization. Not everyone wants their anvil like I did mine.
Man Ina is so great
I could hear the difference except for there was some loud music playing
My bad
Yeah great,,,,until that green stump, checks, in about 6 months,,,,,,DOH!!!!😎
Luckily hurricane Helene gave us plenty of replacements to choose from
@CannonBottomCreations just sayin,,,find a solid , cured one, is all,,,great idea,,,good n sturdy!!😎
Agreed. At least cook it a bit first, you can heat the bottom of the anvil to set on the spot after heat drying to cook a good divot into it as well.
If you are fussy or want pretty, you can plane down air dried wood and glue up a monolithic base.
Since you're filling with sand anyway, how important is it for the hole in the base match the anvils footprint? Could you just cut a rectangle and fill that with sand?
You could, but I prefer to have a tight fit so there’s less room to move
@@CannonBottomCreationsif an anvil that size is moving under normal work, you're doing something very wrong
Router...
Yea I know, didn’t have one handy at the time
The sound it made when you dropped the tools and the test piece at the end though...
Information on the anvil? Looks great. I want one.
I can get you the info, dm me on Instagram and I can get you the exact information on how to get one like that.
@@CannonBottomCreations id like some general Info too, looking for a 225 lb plus, but not on Instagram.
Old guy here. Both my anvils are Hay Budden 250 and 350lb. Both over 100 years old and minimal wear. I know new anvils are out there. What brand is this? What brands of new anvils are considered worthwhile?
This anvil doesn’t have a brand name on it. I know holland anvils make really good stuff. You can pick out exactly what you want
the round hole is called the pritchel hole, the purpose of which is to allow the slug and punch tip to both pass through whichever work your punching.
traditional bedding is horse dung if youve got access.
ideally you should leave the entire edge facing your legs and the heel in its entirety sharp.
Thank you for the advice! I really appreciate the helpful insight to help myself and others understand more
those dings sounded like freakin railroad crossing bells (yes i just came from a train video lol)
Love it!!! More please!
Absolutely!
Great, now I know exactly what to do next time I'm getting an anvil! Which will be... uhm, never.
You always need to be prepared for anything. Like a tiger attack 😂
It's great how you let us hear the sound difference at the end instead of playing some shitty music over it
🤔
My bad, when filming, I just mentioned the magnets and didn’t expect anyone to care
Used to be that anvil makers crafted them well enough that this would never be needed, alas, the great junkifying of all things has even reached this field of production
You guys should look into getting an anvil from the kid on here. Who's British UA-camr? Alec or Alex Steele? I think he makes his own anvil that you actually can bolt down. It's got holes in it. Drill some holes in that anvil to be able to bolt it down it would be much easier
Yea I’ve been watching Alec way back when he had 30k subscribers. I like his anvils, they’re just very pricey
@@CannonBottomCreations I never knew what the price was nor what a average price was. It just seemed like of all the UA-camrs I watched. He made a really good product but I don't know I'm not a blacksmith I'm just a meager welder
It’s a good anvil, but $1400 is a lot of money for a 100lb anvil. That’s not including shipping
I like the singing of the anvil without the magnet.
The song is nice, but it’s dangerous for hearing overlong periods of time
I am not wood working expert, so this is truly more of a question. But could you just use a router to hawg that wood out with made the assistance of the spade but.
You could use a router on it, but the wood was very dense and green. It would have burnt the router up, it was all I could do to cut it with the electric chainsaw. But, yes a router would work, I just didn’t use it this time.
@CannonBottomCreations thank you sir for the explanation
No problem
You can just go buy an anvil stump no need to take all that time, they are relatively cheap and work very well.
I think I would prefer to forgo the magnets. It really isn't a forge without the heavy *BANG BANG* of the hammer.
While I agree the sound is nice. Long exposure to that ringing is terrible for hearing
the log will dry and develop huge cracks
So what or how does the magnet help with sound? Can it be any magnet? Is there a specific place to put it? I'm thinking on buying an anvil, that's why I'm asking so many questions
I just put out a short explaining it better than I could do in a comment. Give it a look if you’re interested. Also I can get you the info for the guy I got my anvil from. If you’re interested send me a message on instagram
Only the square hole is called the Hardy hole, the round one is called a Pritchel hole.
you a strong magnet to reduce the ringing from the anvil
Of all the times for this to pop up. Aussie here: we have a large fallen Ironbark tree (its hard wood), that I'll be cutting tomorrow to move, its not the sort of thing you'd visit twice with a saw, as its too far oit of the way. it might be time to get a base that's right height to work with
That’s amazing
You don't cut out the bottom for the anvil! ! ! You cut the top to fit the bottom of the anvil ! If you cut the bottom there will not be a cutout for the anvil on the top ! And , , , you still need to fasten it to the wood ! Banding near the top is a very wise move !
10/4
Why switch to Crocs when angle grinding? Hopefully the sparks kept your toes warm.
They were in off road mods, so I was perfectly safe
Storebought is fine, some assembly may be required.
😂😂
My back hurts watching this
I always ground a round on one side of the anvil and left a sharp corner on the other side for sharp work
Matter of preference, I’ve always heard it’s better to round all the edges. You’re not going to keep a sharp corner forever and you can just use a specific tool if you want a sharp edge
If it moves at all the sand will creep under and it’ll start to float
I was wondering if they glued it to the base but it's a freaking anvil, that thing ain't going anywhere.
Most people put metal straps and screw it down, or bolt it to the base
I work with an anvil the size of a Rubik's cubes. Im A jeweler.
Ah ok that makes sense
I wouldn’t take EVERY sharp corner away, you still get a use out of them so I would have kept just a bit of it
Just got a log I had lying around, screwed my 40lb baby’s first anvil to it and started hammering away, but my neighbors will love that magnet tip.
That’s awesome. My neighbor asked if I was building a railroad
Why have a magnet? What does it do. I have no knowledge on this subject and was just curious. Thanks!
I posted a new short explaining everything. If you’d like to learn more about
The square hole is the "Hardy hole" and the round hole is the "Pritchel hole".
Thank you
This is the result of having blacksmiths chisle out a block of hardwood, rather than having a carpenter do it for them...blacksmiths, stick to forging metal, and ask a carpenter to chisle out the hardwood for your anvil. We dont need sand to make it stable, cause we get the cuts right, without a chainsaw.
Just sayin.
Nice work... kinda. Needs a woodworker to make it perfect. But nice, considering your skill level with wood.
7/10.
Thank you for your input, I will take that into consideration. Anything Else?
@CannonBottomCreations nah, just get yourselves some professionals. Glad to see youre working on it, but dont seem to have it dialed in just yet. Good luck on that.
Sand? Asphalt roofing.
Yes sand
Next time, use a router to carve out the bottom for the base of the anvil.
The wood was too hard and green, it would have burned up the router. Thanks for the advice
Bro, you could have done the wood base with a router in 5 minutes
Idk much about this type of stuff but if I had to make this part I think I would skip threading that one end, machine it to a few thousandths oversized, press fit it then hit it with it 7018 and slap a “that ain’t goin nowhere”
Could you just put it on the log while it’s hot and burn the shape of the base into it?
Also where did you get those crocs
You could burn it, but it wouldn’t go very deep. Once the wood burned and turned to char it would no longer burn again. I got the crocs at Walmart
Awesome evening yall everyone has their own way !!!! Brother you do you your way and you will be more happy !!!! Positive comments are welcomed negativity can just keep scrolling
🙌🏼🙌🏼
I used a nice piece of dougie fir for my base, i just didnt think of making a slot for the anvil
It’s not required, but I’d like for there to be an extra protection from the anvil moving around
@CannonBottomCreations yeh, I ended up using normal house screws around base like a border to stop movement, not ideal but it works. I've got a couple small magnets on there too, total game changer. I'ma get a whole bunch more on to see what happens 💪💪
That’s awesome! Good luck
How about a router for the base?
The wood was very hard and still green. It would have burned up the router. It was difficult to hog it out with the chainsaw.
@CannonBottomCreations oh, I see. Just curious. Awesome by the way.
No problem, thanks
i hope my enchantments gets cheaper after this
As long as you have enough lapis you should get off pretty cheap
What is the weight of that anvil?
(Careful, loaded question).
You need to anchor the anvil to the stump with spikes or chain… It helps to keep the anvil from steeling the force from your hammer and it deadens the ringing… the magnets are useless.
I’m making steel arms that bolt over the feet of the anvil. I wouldn’t go as far to say they’re useless
The magnets if placed at the right spots can almost completely remove the resonance or ringing you hear, which can damage hearing and also ever heard of constructive feedback? Basically if you hit it at a rate where the hits line up with the peaks of the frequency in the ringing, the overall force the anvil will experience internally will be heavily increased over just the force applied from one hammer strike. This can actually cause damage, especially over time
@@CannonBottomCreations well that’s what I’m saying. As someone who actually studied blacksmithing and have been doing it for years now… I can assure you that they’re useless. Anvil that is properly secured to the stump with spikes and chains, or in stump with lead sheath under it…. Does not ring.
@@CannonBottomCreations and yes… it depends on the type of the anvil. If it’s anvil that was made nowadays, it was cast and it’s all hardened.( that’s the thing with American made anvils that are made these days and they ring like crazy) On the other hand, forged anvils from iron doesn’t sing. I have 2 of my anvils just placed on the stump and they does not ring. Guess how they were made…
Interesting I’ve never heard of that before, I’ll look into it
Very good! Thanks for the advice! 😁😈
Thanks, absolutely
Can’t wait to use this for the anvil I’m never gonna buy o.o but very interesting video
Is it fastened down?
Not yet, but it will be
me who will never own an anvil or forge anything: hmm yes now i know