You literally saved my Schuler pan install today. I called Schluter and while the rep was helpful and sent me the installation guide and some trimming tips, this video was the key to me understanding what to do. Thank you!!
the way you used a push-fit hose bib connected to copper stubbed out from the drop ear is pretty slick. I'm gonna use this one for sure. thanks for all your videos i really appreciate your time and effort
Love the Shluter system. I just wish the bands had a crease (like drywall paper) as that would make it a bit easier to get perfect corners. I never thought of sponging off the seams. Will try that next time.
Jeff, I’m really glad to see your jumping into the deck mud band wagon. I just finished floating my shower base using the the 4:1 that you mentioned, and it was much cheaper than using the foam tray-though I see the appeal of the foam. I kinda agree with Sal and his theory of foam vs deck mud. Great vid as always!
thanks buddy, yes, I’m starting to like the idea of using deck mud since watching more videos from Eylander Tile. No doubt, it takes skill and attention to detail but it’s simply awesome to learn new skills. Do you have a preferred deck mud or do you like mixing your own?
I prefer a 5:1 ratio for my mud because it’s easier to shape and form. But that takes time, for time, so I rarely mix my own mud. I like the 4:1 from Mapei, but I use even less water that they recommend-2.5 qt/ bag. Makes it less thick, even for a dry pack! Your finish looked really good!
@@davidherd3739 thank you, I’d like to use more deck mud and tinker around with it on future projects. I think for custom sized showers it would be great, have you ever used it for a curbless installation?
@Home Repair Tutor - bingo! That’s the appeal for custom drain placement. Plus I prefer to use the new FloFX drains. You’ve used them? Frankly, they knock the socks off of Schluter or Laticrete drains. I haven’t used it on a curb less install yet, but the technique would be the same nonetheless.
Another great video as always! My apologies for the dumb question but I did not understand why you cut 3/4" of the edges and then re-used the same strips.
Thank you 🙏🏼 the first 3/4” of the tray is flat. That’s actually very helpful for the wall tile. When you cut down a sloped tray like this one, it creates a slight curved shape along the perimeter which means the wall tile might have to be scribe cut. However, by cutting off the flat 3/4” perimeter and adding it back, it makes the perimeter flat again. And that helps with the wall tile
@@HomeRepairTutor Sorry, one more question, doesn't the flat perimeter cause water to stay at the perimeter and not flow through the drain? Also, since I'm using 4'x4' panels instead of wall tiles, do you still recommend this trick? Thanks!
super awesome video, I am getting ready to do this part of my DIY custom master on suite and this video has really helped give me the boost of knowledge to get this done, you have a great approach to your videos and its like the channel i watch "this old house" any how great video thank you for sharing
I don’t understand why you cut off a 3/4” strip on the sides then put it right back down when you laid the pan. Excellent video. I really like your presentation approach.
Guess you guys missed the part where he cut an additional 3 inches off each sideto trim it, his trim cuts were probably crooked so he used the 3/4 inch because they had factory edges to square off the shower pan again.
Did you use the wider banding for the sides with the 3/4" strips you reinstalled? If you used the 5" wide band, you won't have the 2 inch overlap required along the the length of the strip.
I have the same shower tray that I need to install, however I’m building a curbed shower. Is it necessary to recess the floor 3/4’s of an inch if your using 3/4 inch plywood around the shower? I think recessing the floor would make the tiles in the shower and the rest of floor flush however is it necessary if the shower is going to be curbed anyway? Also can you provide a link so that I can build some of the foundational plumbing beneath the schluter tray. I’m trying to attach pvc piping to my lead drain.
Why do you need to fill in with mortar? Can Schluter kits not be fitted to the full length? Also not sure how the side strips function. Are you not just cutting them off and applying them again?
yes, if you have to customize the tray it helps a lot. The first 3/4” along the tray perimeter is flat. This helps when setting wall tile. So if you need to reduce the size of the tray, cut off the first 3/4” then cut off whatever is required for the other sides. I cut down a 38” tray to 32”. So the first 3/4” was cut off then 3” on the left and right sides. Then I added the 3/4” strips when setting the tray. Schluter actually gave me the idea 👍🏼🔥
@@HomeRepairTutor Thank you!. I appreciate your response and all of your great videos. That makes perfect sense. I have a 36x72 Schluter tray with the line drain that I'm about to install. I built the opening just a fraction wider to allow an easier install of the pan. I would think that the thinset could fill the 1/8 inch gap ok. If all goes well, I don't have to trim anything :P
I like your video. I want to build one with a linear drain in the middle, perpendicular to the curb. Unfortunately the liner would not be big enough, kinda like in your video. I'm wondering if it would be easier to just make a concrete bed all over. Also I want to install a frameless shower door which needs a screw in the curb. What kind of curb would you build so it can hold a screw? I was thinking of a wood curb covered with curb kurdi board. Would be great to hear your opinion.
Great video. Why did you need to mortar the end piece? Is there a kit that you can cut to fit the whole floor? Second when you mortar the end did it not raise that end above the side slope so that when tiling it has to be cut to fit?
Great video and info! So I would like to ask, does this seem like it has more steps than just using the Laticrete system the Laticrete, shower pan and membrane and board? Your opinion which one is better and which one is more cost-effective? Thank you.
Nice vid...are you able to connect end on end 2 schluter shower pans? I'm extending my shower and it will end up with 2 drains one on each end (8' shower)
good question, if it’s a big shower you might want to consider floating the shower tray with deck mud, I’d have to see the design to determine what would be your best option 👍🏼🔥
Jeff, my kerdi boards don't make it down to the shower subfloor without cutting a two inch strip to run along the bottom of the floor. I am using a kerdi shower pan (2 inch) that meets the wall boards without a gap, do I need to fill that void with deck mud?
Thanks for this video!. My shower pan is missing the removable white center circular piece that the drain is set in. We lost it during renovation mayhem. Schluter doesn't seem to sell them separately. Do you know of a way to install the pan without that circle piece?
what's the diameter of your shower curb? I'm looking at customizing schluter's prefab shower curb to about 3 inches high and 3 inches wide. Your curb looks very similar to how I want mine to look.
One question, I see sometimes you use Keri membrane on sheet rock and sometimes on usg boards for the shower. what is better Keri board? sheet rock or usg board?
Good question, I prefer KERDI-BOARD. It’s lighter than cement board and dustless. And doesn’t have any organic materials, like drywall. Plus, I can use extra pieces of the board to build shower niches
Great video - thank you! Question please - I have a narrow pan as I am replacing a tub and have limited clearance. I've cut the 3/4" strips off the sides as you suggested. Since I cut the pan down to 25" total width, there is a significant lip on both sides at the 3/4" strip. The lip goes from 1/16 to nearly 1/4" near the drain. Should the lip be filled with something like Henry's Feather patch before I do the Kerdi corners and band? Any suggestions welcomed.
It was over self-leveler, drywall can be used with KERDI but mist liquid membrane manufacturers don’t recommend using their products over drywall, eg RedGard. You could use cement board and liquid membranes 👍🏼
Nice video Jeff. I was curious if you are using special knee pads to keep from indenting the foam shower floor? I am a few days away from installing this same foam floor pan and was wondering if there was a better way then using cardboard?
So you said to cut off the first 3/4" before you trim to size. I did that with my tray but the 3/4" strips are now higher than the rest of the tray edges???? So now I have a tray that is too small for the shower space and or the edges are higher than they are supposed to be. You didn't address this in your video, what's the fix or do I now have to go spend another $130 on a new tray?
First, this video was done per my Schluter rep who recommended this tip. The first 3/4” of any tray is flat. The reason is so that the wall tile won’t have to be scribe cut. Second, calm down. You can still use the shower tray. The 3/4” pieces are added back. And yes, you’ll have a slight increase in elevation. That can be feathered with thin-set and a 6” drywall knife. Once that cures, use banding to overlap the shower tray seam and corner by at least 2” per the Schluter Handbook.
Just to be clear, thin set is all set? so when you combine the half bag and you say all set at first but then pour in thin set to the water thats actually the all set but its the same thing. ( very green, first time )
Great video! I'm curious, what's your thought on shower pan + strips + deck mud, versus just doing the whole thing with deck mud, both from a time and cost perspective?
It’s a personal preference, I can see how some prefer deck mud because of the art form and enjoyment versus perhaps someone who simply wants the pre-slope built into the tray.
I agree with Jeff. I prefer mud installations. It’s a little bit of preparation up front to ensure you get the proper pitch to the drain, but the payoff is wonderful. It’s faster to do a deck mud install, and you can put any tile you want on the floor. Foam trays, per Schluter directions, mandate at least a 2x2 mosaic on their trays because of point-load distribution. You couldn’t install a penny round of you wanted on foam for example. Plus cost is a big factor as well. Foam trays are substantially more expensive than deck mud installs.
@@HomeRepairTutor Seems to me a portion of that slope would be missing if you added back the 3/4" edge strip after removing 3" from the perimeter, leaving a "step" between the cut edge and 3/4" strip.
@@davidherd3739 , do you cover the surface with an uncoupling membrane or just use the thin waterproof membrane? Seems like waterproofing all the corners would be easier if it was just the thin membrane. But then do you worry about grout cracking?
Why was the drain disk installed before the shower tray? That should be installed after installing the kerdi board placing the drain disk on top of the thin shower tray opening.
@@juliolabrador463 yes, watch the drain video on schluter youtube channel, it shows this technique. Basically the point is so that you don’t have to worry about embedding the flange into thinset at the same time as worrying about glueing up the pipe joint .
So I know in that one spot, you sloped it. But what about the rest of the big area? It doesn't looked sloped since you was on wood sub floor, so why doesn't this system need it to be sloped?
@@HomeRepairTutor Nice. So basically, you thinset subfloor, put down pan, then thin set rest of shower, apply membrane every where, creases, etc, and press in good, and clean up. And thats basically it? Thinset everywhere and then membrane everywhere?
Why don’t you put the pan in first and the wall second? That way if there’s a failure of the wall, the water drips down to the pan instead of to the plywood.
My god this video is a great reminder of why I haven’t used Schluter in years. The mud bed and strips, seriously? What a joke. Wedi Fundo is a millions times better and thank you for reminding of that. Overall great job with the video. FYI- the ridiculous membrane is like putting a condom over a condom. Dumb. Use tile backer board, no need for membrane.
1/4 inch slope per lineal foot, that's what he said right? That means over 5 ft you would have 1 1/4 inch slope. How do you get 1 1/4 slope when the Kerdi pan is only an 1 1/8 thick to begin with? You don't it's impossible. This entire system is flawed from the get-go what they don't show you is what you will find out the hard way. If you don't know how to build a shower hire someone who does. I've been in business for 40 years and I've never seen such a scam in my life. There is nothing in this whole system that saves time. Remember you have to get your walls and your floor absolutely 100% perfect before you attempt to put this over it. If you're going to do that why bother with something that's horribly expensive just seal it up and tile it! You've already made it perfect why put their stuff over your perfect work? It's a waste of money
You’re misunderstanding the slope, it’s 1/4” per linear foot from the corners to the drain. And all you need is for the floor to be level within 1/4” - using thin-set to make up for imperfections. Furthermore, if the walls aren’t perfect, you can easily wet shim them to make your KERDI-BOARD plumb and even. You’re not understanding the system and the flexibility, I’d encourage you to go to an in person training
You literally saved my Schuler pan install today. I called Schluter and while the rep was helpful and sent me the installation guide and some trimming tips, this video was the key to me understanding what to do. Thank you!!
🙏🏼🔥🙏🏼🔥
Best install video on UA-cam. Quick and to the point.
Thank you 🙏🏼
I have been convinced to use to new system, it makes life a lot easier then the old system
I have been using the Schluter system for a long time! I love it!
the way you used a push-fit hose bib connected to copper stubbed out from the drop ear is pretty slick. I'm gonna use this one for sure. thanks for all your videos i really appreciate your time and effort
Love the Shluter system. I just wish the bands had a crease (like drywall paper) as that would make it a bit easier to get perfect corners. I never thought of sponging off the seams. Will try that next time.
How do you kerdi band and tile over those 3/4 strips? Wouldn't the strips be a bit higher than the surface of the tray since you cut it down to size?
Looks like it will flex pretty good on an upstairs home
i love the simplicity and informity of this vid!! better than most 20 min vids ive seen on here.! 1 more subscriber added. thx guy.
Jeff, I’m really glad to see your jumping into the deck mud band wagon. I just finished floating my shower base using the the 4:1 that you mentioned, and it was much cheaper than using the foam tray-though I see the appeal of the foam. I kinda agree with Sal and his theory of foam vs deck mud.
Great vid as always!
thanks buddy, yes, I’m starting to like the idea of using deck mud since watching more videos from Eylander Tile. No doubt, it takes skill and attention to detail but it’s simply awesome to learn new skills. Do you have a preferred deck mud or do you like mixing your own?
I prefer a 5:1 ratio for my mud because it’s easier to shape and form. But that takes time, for time, so I rarely mix my own mud.
I like the 4:1 from Mapei, but I use even less water that they recommend-2.5 qt/ bag. Makes it less thick, even for a dry pack!
Your finish looked really good!
@@davidherd3739 thank you, I’d like to use more deck mud and tinker around with it on future projects. I think for custom sized showers it would be great, have you ever used it for a curbless installation?
@Home Repair Tutor - bingo! That’s the appeal for custom drain placement. Plus I prefer to use the new FloFX drains. You’ve used them? Frankly, they knock the socks off of Schluter or Laticrete drains.
I haven’t used it on a curb less install yet, but the technique would be the same nonetheless.
Great attention to detail 👍
Thank you 🙏🏼
Another great video as always! My apologies for the dumb question but I did not understand why you cut 3/4" of the edges and then re-used the same strips.
Thank you 🙏🏼 the first 3/4” of the tray is flat. That’s actually very helpful for the wall tile. When you cut down a sloped tray like this one, it creates a slight curved shape along the perimeter which means the wall tile might have to be scribe cut. However, by cutting off the flat 3/4” perimeter and adding it back, it makes the perimeter flat again. And that helps with the wall tile
@@HomeRepairTutor Thank you very much again!
How do you deal with the lip it creates when tiling? Just add more thunder when tiling floor? And any additional water proofing needed?
Thinset *
@@HomeRepairTutor Sorry, one more question, doesn't the flat perimeter cause water to stay at the perimeter and not flow through the drain? Also, since I'm using 4'x4' panels instead of wall tiles, do you still recommend this trick? Thanks!
super awesome video, I am getting ready to do this part of my DIY custom master on suite and this video has really helped give me the boost of knowledge to get this done, you have a great approach to your videos and its like the channel i watch "this old house" any how great video thank you for sharing
what are you looking for during the flood test? for the water level to go down over a period of time?
I don’t understand why you cut off a 3/4” strip on the sides then put it right back down when you laid the pan. Excellent video. I really like your presentation approach.
Me too
Me three
@@stroys7061 me four
Makes no sense to cut 3/4 I think it's a trick
Guess you guys missed the part where he cut an additional 3 inches off each sideto trim it, his trim cuts were probably crooked so he used the 3/4 inch because they had factory edges to square off the shower pan again.
How’d u know if your flood test worked or not
Perfect start!!!
Hopefully it helps 👍🏼
Did you use the wider banding for the sides with the 3/4" strips you reinstalled? If you used the 5" wide band, you won't have the 2 inch overlap required along the the length of the strip.
Great work!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Great video!! Thank you
I have the same shower tray that I need to install, however I’m building a curbed shower. Is it necessary to recess the floor 3/4’s of an inch if your using 3/4 inch plywood around the shower? I think recessing the floor would make the tiles in the shower and the rest of floor flush however is it necessary if the shower is going to be curbed anyway? Also can you provide a link so that I can build some of the foundational plumbing beneath the schluter tray. I’m trying to attach pvc piping to my lead drain.
Why was the tray not all the way to the wall avoiding having to put a strip of compacted mad???
Shower length longer than 60", the max length of shower trays.
Why do you need to fill in with mortar? Can Schluter kits not be fitted to the full length? Also not sure how the side strips function. Are you not just cutting them off and applying them again?
Wow thank you fot your knowledge
Not sure that I understand cutting off the 3/4 inch strips to use them in the same spot later. Can anyone clarify?
yes, if you have to customize the tray it helps a lot. The first 3/4” along the tray perimeter is flat. This helps when setting wall tile. So if you need to reduce the size of the tray, cut off the first 3/4” then cut off whatever is required for the other sides. I cut down a 38” tray to 32”. So the first 3/4” was cut off then 3” on the left and right sides. Then I added the 3/4” strips when setting the tray. Schluter actually gave me the idea 👍🏼🔥
@@HomeRepairTutor Thank you!. I appreciate your response and all of your great videos. That makes perfect sense. I have a 36x72 Schluter tray with the line drain that I'm about to install. I built the opening just a fraction wider to allow an easier install of the pan. I would think that the thinset could fill the 1/8 inch gap ok. If all goes well, I don't have to trim anything :P
Everyone installs the kerdi board before yhe base, but it seems intuitive to me to do the base prior and butt the wall panels to it...any input?
did you put the deck mud because the Kerdi shower pan was small? but then why did you cut the shower pan?
Question....The deck mud extension will now be higher than the perimeter of the res of the pan...you just scribe cut the tiles in that area?
Do you need to use the kerdi band where the kerdi board meets the drywall ceiling or do you leave that joint open? Thanks!
you can leave it open if it’s small but yes, banding can be used as well
dont band the ceiling if you plan on having a painted ceiling. just leave it open, water doesnt get that high
I like your video. I want to build one with a linear drain in the middle, perpendicular to the curb. Unfortunately the liner would not be big enough, kinda like in your video. I'm wondering if it would be easier to just make a concrete bed all over.
Also I want to install a frameless shower door which needs a screw in the curb. What kind of curb would you build so it can hold a screw? I was thinking of a wood curb covered with curb kurdi board. Would be great to hear your opinion.
What thinset alternative do you recommend?
What's that deck mud you used
it’s Mapei 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix, great option for extending Schluter trays
Great video. Why did you need to mortar the end piece? Is there a kit that you can cut to fit the whole floor? Second when you mortar the end did it not raise that end above the side slope so that when tiling it has to be cut to fit?
Thanks
Great video and info! So I would like to ask, does this seem like it has more steps than just using the Laticrete system the Laticrete, shower pan and membrane and board? Your opinion which one is better and which one is more cost-effective? Thank you.
OMG where are you located, my bathroom is a disaster, trying to do DIY.
Pittsburgh
Nice vid...are you able to connect end on end 2 schluter shower pans? I'm extending my shower and it will end up with 2 drains one on each end (8' shower)
good question, if it’s a big shower you might want to consider floating the shower tray with deck mud, I’d have to see the design to determine what would be your best option 👍🏼🔥
Theoretically it seems possible. Just make sure both pans are the same length since the perimeter heights are different.
Can you lay large format tile on that pan with the offset drain? I wouldn't imagine it would be easy
Jeff, my kerdi boards don't make it down to the shower subfloor without cutting a two inch strip to run along the bottom of the floor. I am using a kerdi shower pan (2 inch) that meets the wall boards without a gap, do I need to fill that void with deck mud?
Could I use Kerdi walls and a composite shower base? Or would have have to use schluter base if my walls are kerdi board?
yes, it would be similar to a bathtub installation but with a shower base
Is it normal to have a slight drop off around the drain?
Thanks for this video!. My shower pan is missing the removable white center circular piece that the drain is set in. We lost it during renovation mayhem. Schluter doesn't seem to sell them separately. Do you know of a way to install the pan without that circle piece?
Do you just lay the shower tray right on top of the sub floor?
Yes 👍🏽
Isn't it flat on the edges because your applying thinset and banding and corners which would cause a buildup?
How about building a curb using that 3” left over.
Do you have a link for the wedi boards for the bathroom
unfortunately I don’t but you could buy them at local Tile Shops or via Master Wholesale online 👍🏼
what's the diameter of your shower curb? I'm looking at customizing schluter's prefab shower curb to about 3 inches high and 3 inches wide. Your curb looks very similar to how I want mine to look.
It was roughly 2-5/8” wide - I customized it by cutting it in half and bonding back together with KERDI-FIX
@@HomeRepairTutor that’s great. thanks for the speedy reply.
Wow more video please
One question, I see sometimes you use Keri membrane on sheet rock and sometimes on usg boards for the shower. what is better Keri board? sheet rock or usg board?
Good question, I prefer KERDI-BOARD. It’s lighter than cement board and dustless. And doesn’t have any organic materials, like drywall. Plus, I can use extra pieces of the board to build shower niches
Great video - thank you! Question please - I have a narrow pan as I am replacing a tub and have limited clearance. I've cut the 3/4" strips off the sides as you suggested. Since I cut the pan down to 25" total width, there is a significant lip on both sides at the 3/4" strip. The lip goes from 1/16 to nearly 1/4" near the drain. Should the lip be filled with something like Henry's Feather patch before I do the Kerdi corners and band? Any suggestions welcomed.
Great question, you can use thin-set (eg ALL-SET) to feather that lip. Allow that to set then use KERDI-BAND to waterproof as you would normally
Why do you want a 3/4in flat strip at the edge of your pan?
so the wall tile has a flat and level surface to start on.
Aren't the edges you cut off supposed to provide the slope?
Nice video! Was this on a concrete subfloor or basement? Would greenboard drywall and primer to seal work for tile in a shower?
It was over self-leveler, drywall can be used with KERDI but mist liquid membrane manufacturers don’t recommend using their products over drywall, eg RedGard. You could use cement board and liquid membranes 👍🏼
Nice video Jeff. I was curious if you are using special knee pads to keep from indenting the foam shower floor? I am a few days away from installing this same foam floor pan and was wondering if there was a better way then using cardboard?
i was wondering this same thing
Hi! Are the curbs flat facing toward the drain or come sloped? Do you add slope to the curb or your tile later? Why or why not? Thank you!
From what I understand the slope is done with the tile but just a little if a door is going on the curb.
Still not quite sure what's the purpose of the 3/4 flat strip...
Also, I don’t understand what happens if you don’t use the 3/4” strip…could you explain a bit further…thanks
What happened to the 3” piece you cut ???
So you said to cut off the first 3/4" before you trim to size. I did that with my tray but the 3/4" strips are now higher than the rest of the tray edges???? So now I have a tray that is too small for the shower space and or the edges are higher than they are supposed to be. You didn't address this in your video, what's the fix or do I now have to go spend another $130 on a new tray?
First, this video was done per my Schluter rep who recommended this tip. The first 3/4” of any tray is flat. The reason is so that the wall tile won’t have to be scribe cut.
Second, calm down. You can still use the shower tray. The 3/4” pieces are added back. And yes, you’ll have a slight increase in elevation. That can be feathered with thin-set and a 6” drywall knife. Once that cures, use banding to overlap the shower tray seam and corner by at least 2” per the Schluter Handbook.
I'm not understanding why to cut off 3/4" strips, to only put them back during the install???
So that way it has a leak later on
Just to be clear, thin set is all set? so when you combine the half bag and you say all set at first but then pour in thin set to the water thats actually the all set but its the same thing. ( very green, first time )
@@CoreyRood I am just using Schluter ALL-SET mortar, sorry for the confusion
Why the deck mud?
it’s to extend the prefab tray to the plumbing wall 👍🏼🔥
because the tray wasnt long enough
Oh gotcha thanks
@@Roket4 no problem, I should have mentioned that in the video 👍🏼
Great video! I'm curious, what's your thought on shower pan + strips + deck mud, versus just doing the whole thing with deck mud, both from a time and cost perspective?
It’s a personal preference, I can see how some prefer deck mud because of the art form and enjoyment versus perhaps someone who simply wants the pre-slope built into the tray.
I agree with Jeff. I prefer mud installations. It’s a little bit of preparation up front to ensure you get the proper pitch to the drain, but the payoff is wonderful. It’s faster to do a deck mud install, and you can put any tile you want on the floor. Foam trays, per Schluter directions, mandate at least a 2x2 mosaic on their trays because of point-load distribution. You couldn’t install a penny round of you wanted on foam for example.
Plus cost is a big factor as well. Foam trays are substantially more expensive than deck mud installs.
@@davidherd3739 Thanks for your feedback as well! Makes total sense and will take this into consideration for my next project!
@@HomeRepairTutor Seems to me a portion of that slope would be missing if you added back the 3/4" edge strip after removing 3" from the perimeter, leaving a "step" between the cut edge and 3/4" strip.
@@davidherd3739 , do you cover the surface with an uncoupling membrane or just use the thin waterproof membrane? Seems like waterproofing all the corners would be easier if it was just the thin membrane. But then do you worry about grout cracking?
Why was the drain disk installed before the shower tray? That should be installed after installing the kerdi board placing the drain disk on top of the thin shower tray opening.
its done that way when there's no access to plumbing from below.
@@conradcoolerfiend ohh ok. I've been working with shluter for a year now and so far Im still learning new techniques.
@@juliolabrador463 yes, watch the drain video on schluter youtube channel, it shows this technique. Basically the point is so that you don’t have to worry about embedding the flange into thinset at the same time as worrying about glueing up the pipe joint .
So I know in that one spot, you sloped it. But what about the rest of the big area? It doesn't looked sloped since you was on wood sub floor, so why doesn't this system need it to be sloped?
The prefab tray has a slope built into it
@@HomeRepairTutor Nice. So basically, you thinset subfloor, put down pan, then thin set rest of shower, apply membrane every where, creases, etc, and press in good, and clean up. And thats basically it? Thinset everywhere and then membrane everywhere?
@@jtoker9758 for the most part but with some additional strategy
Why don’t you put the pan in first and the wall second? That way if there’s a failure of the wall, the water drips down to the pan instead of to the plywood.
No matter the way the wall goes if the corner fails you'll have water going to the plywood. Key is make sure your corners are solid.
I thought the curb is already waterproof, why put membrane over it??
Pro Tip: Set playback speed to 1.25.
👍👌👍
thank you 🙏🏼
Wow this guy is making a fish tank for thousands instead of pvc liner nut and tile one day
that seems like a lotta work. tile-redi is going to render schluter and wedi obsolete.
Little over kill but that’s just my opinion.
Using gloves? I already trust your work.
My god this video is a great reminder of why I haven’t used Schluter in years. The mud bed and strips, seriously? What a joke. Wedi Fundo is a millions times better and thank you for reminding of that. Overall great job with the video. FYI- the ridiculous membrane is like putting a condom over a condom. Dumb. Use tile backer board, no need for membrane.
Yea to fast for beginners
You will destroy the shower tray if you stay on your knees like him without any protection for the floor like a cardboard
While instructional, this video was wayyyyyyyyy too fast.
Garbage
1/4 inch slope per lineal foot, that's what he said right? That means over 5 ft you would have 1 1/4 inch slope. How do you get 1 1/4 slope when the Kerdi pan is only an 1 1/8 thick to begin with? You don't it's impossible. This entire system is flawed from the get-go what they don't show you is what you will find out the hard way. If you don't know how to build a shower hire someone who does. I've been in business for 40 years and I've never seen such a scam in my life. There is nothing in this whole system that saves time. Remember you have to get your walls and your floor absolutely 100% perfect before you attempt to put this over it. If you're going to do that why bother with something that's horribly expensive just seal it up and tile it! You've already made it perfect why put their stuff over your perfect work? It's a waste of money
You’re misunderstanding the slope, it’s 1/4” per linear foot from the corners to the drain. And all you need is for the floor to be level within 1/4” - using thin-set to make up for imperfections. Furthermore, if the walls aren’t perfect, you can easily wet shim them to make your KERDI-BOARD plumb and even. You’re not understanding the system and the flexibility, I’d encourage you to go to an in person training